MODULE 2

THE CAMERA and PRINCIPLES OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Introduction: Development of Photography took place since the 1800s. From the film to the digital
photography that we use nowadays. Aside from the light as in important component in photography,
in this module, you will also encounter some components relevant to photography. The basic parts of
camera are also tackled in this module. What are the uses of each button which is a little bit more
complicated than the previous types of cameras and what are the principles you should remember in
dealing with photography.

Objectives:

- To be able to know the importance and relevance of some factors or components of photography

- To differentiate a film from a digital photography.

- To familiarize oneself on the different parts of a camera.

- To give importance to principles of photography to come up with a good quality photograph.

- To cite how the principles affect a certain image.

Lesson 1: Sensitized Material, Photographic Paper and the Darkroom

SENSITIZED MATERIAL

- It refers to the film and photographic paper that basically composed of emulsion containing Silver
Halides suspended in gelatin and coated on a transparent or reflective support.

Parts of the Sensitized Material

1. Emulsion- is that part of the film or photographic paper which contains the silver grains which is
the one sensitive to light. In a colored film this emulsion surface can be composed of three layers
(Blue, Green and Red) with filters intervening.
2. Anti Halation Backing- is the one designed to hold back the light and prevents halation.
3. Base- Support the emulsion

I. Types of Film
A. According to Use
1. Black and White Film- usually represented by a prefix or a suffix “Pan” or “Ortho” and generally used
in black and white photography. Examples are Ortholith film, Tri X-Pan and Pan X-plus.
2. Colored Film = can be divided into two: the Negative type and the Reversal type of colored film.
The former is usually having names ending in color while the word chrome represents the latter.
e.g. Blue sensitive film, Ultra-violet film, Infra-red film, Orthochromatic film and Panchromatic film.
B. According to Spectral Sensitivity
Spectral sensitivity- is the responsiveness of the film emulsion to the different wavelength of the light
course.
1. Blue Sensitive film- sensitive to U.V. light and Blue Color.
2. Orthochromatic Film- Sensitive to U.V Light up to the green (popular in the market as Kodalith Film)
3. Panchromatic film- Sensitive to U.V. Light up to red (sensitive to all colors of the visible light)
3.1. Process Panchromatic film- permit short exposures under average lighting condition and has
the advantage of the grain structure.
3.2. Grain Panchromatic film
3.3. High Speed Panchromatic film- designed originally for photographing object under adverse
lighting condition
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4. Infra-red Film- Sensitive to all colors and to infra-red light.
C. FILM SPEED (Emulsion Speed)
This refers to the degree of sensitivity of the film to light.
1. ASA (American Standards Association)- this is expressed in arithmetic value system. The bigger
the number the more sensitive the film is.
- ASA 10, 20, 30, 40,50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1000
2. DIN (Deutche Industre Normen) = expressed in Logarithmic value system. Used in the same
principle as the ASA.
- Din 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33 etc.
3. ISO (International Standard Organization) expressed as combination of ASA and DIN rating.

II. Photographic Paper

- It is that sensitized material that will record the visible image in the final development and
become the photograph.
Types of Photographic Papers
A. According to Emulsion Used (Silver halides content)
1. Silver Chloride paper- used for contact printing, the size of the positive print is the same as the
size of the negative used. Sensitivity to light is low and give blue-black tones when properly
developed.
2. Silver Bromide paper- used projection, printing and enlarging process. This is one of the most
ideal photopaper used for police photography. Will give a black tone when properly
developed.
3. Silver Chlorobromide paper- used both for projection and contact printing. Slow emulsion.
4. Variable contract paper- combines the contrast range in one paper it uses a special
chlorobromide emulsion that produces varying contrast responses upon exposure to different
colors of light.
B. According to Physical Characteristics
b.1. Weight
1. Light weight- designed for high flexibility and when paper thickness is not of consideration.
Intended for purposes, which involves folding.
2. Single Weight- papers used for small prints or which are need to be mounted on solid and fine
details necessary in the production. Used in ordinary photographic purposes.
3. Double weight- generally used for large prints because they stand up under rough treatment.
b.2. Surface Texture
a. Glossy paper- designed for fine details and brilliant image formation.
b. Semi-mate paper- obscure the fine details
c. Rough papers- used for large prints or where breath rather than detail is necessary.
b.3. Color
a. White- better used in police photography.
b. Cream- preferred for pictorial effect, portraits, landscape or when warmth effect is desired.
c. Buff papers- prepare for tone prints
C. According to Contrast (grade)
1. Velox No. 0 = used for printing extremely contrast negative or extremely exposed film.
2. Velox No. 1 = used for high contrast negative (over exposed film)
3. Velox No. 2 = used for normal exposed film
4. Velox No. 3 = used for negative with weak contrast (under exposed)
5. Velox No. 4 = used to provide sufficient contrast to compensate for very thin or weak negatives.
It is useful imprinting which high contrast is desired.
6. Velox No. 5 = for flat negative that are unprintable.
*Velox- The trade name of a type of choloride papers developed by Kodak for producing photographic films.
The term Velox is commonly used to refer to a glossy black-and-white photographic print of halftone images or
line art used for proofing negatives.
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 LESSON 2: THE CAMERA

Definition: is an optical instrument to capture still images or to record moving images, which are stored
in a physical medium such as in a digital system or on photographic film.

Film vs. Digital

Film photography is the art of taking photographs on thin, transparent strips of plastic we call film. One
side of the film strip is coated with a gelatin emulsion that contains small silver halide crystals, which
determine the contrast and resolution of a photograph.

Digital photography uses cameras containing arrays of electronic photodetectors to produce images
focused by a lens, as opposed to an exposure on photographic film. The captured images are digitized
and stored as a computer file ready for further digital processing, viewing, electronic publishing, or
digital printing.

ADVANTAGES OF DIGITAL CAMERA DISADVANTAGES OF DIGITAL CAMERA

• It allows shooting in both color and black & • Not as sensitive to light as film-based
white. camera.

• No changing of film • The “shutter lag” delays between pressing

the shutter button and actually capturing
• No running out of film
the image can lead to miss opportunities.
• An added feature on many digital cameras
• The LCD viewfinder can sometimes be hard
has the ability to shoot video.
to see on a bright day.
• Can take as many photographs as your
• Camera battery life is limited due to the
memory card will allow.
abundance of computerized parts
• Easily view and share pictures.

How to handle a camera

It’s worth taking a few minutes to practice holding your camera before you start shooting – you’ll get
sharper shots.

• FINGER- The camera body is designed to be gripped with your hand and your index finger over the
shutter release. You should be able to press the button without having to reposition your grip.
• HAND- Rest your lens in your left hand. You should be able to twist the barrel of the lens to zoom or
focus with this hand, leaving your right hand to grip the camera body.
• ELBOW- Tuck your elbow into your body to keep your camera sturdy. The further out your elbow are,
the more unstable you will be.
• EYEBROW CONTACT- Lift the camera up to your eye and rest the viewfinder against your eyebrow.
This makes another point of contact on the body for more stability.
• LEGS- Place your legs a little apart so you’re leaning in to take a shot then move one foot forward
to create sturdier body shape.
• PORTRAIT- If you need to switch your camera to a portrait orientation then turn it over so the shutter
release sits at the top. If you do it the other way around your arms will become all twisted up.
• BACK-PANEL CONTROL- With your hands in the correct position, your thumb is well placed to access
the controls on the back of the camera to alter the shooting settings.

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• REST ELBOW- If you have a surface area in front of you, lean your elbows onto it to steady yourself.
Look for level surfaces, such as a table or wall.
• CONTROL YOUR BREATHING- Breath out when you take a shot. If you hold your breath or breath in,
you’ll find you move around a lot more. It’s amazing how much of a difference controlling your
breathing can make.
• TAKE A MAT- When kneeling to take shots outdoor, you might get a wet or dirty kneel. Take a mat
or a plastic bag to place under your knee for comfort and to avoid ruining your clothes.
• LEAN IN- Leaning against the wall creates instant support for your camera. This can be useful when
shooting at slow shutter speeds without a tripod.
• BRING ONE LEG UP- By coming down into a crouching position and bringing your leg up you can
turn your body into a human tripod. Place your elbow on your knee to connect your leg and arm
together, creating a braced position so you don’t wobble around.

How to Hold a Camera in Standing Position

When you are in a regular standing position, use the below tips to avoid camera shake:

1. Place your feet perpendicular to your subject: when hand-holding a camera, you typically have
more balance when standing perpendicular to your subject, since there is less back and forth
movement of your body compared to when standing parallel to your subject

2. Push your elbows into your sides: you want to avoid being in a “flapping” position with your elbows,
because they will constantly move, causing your hands to move as well. Instead, tuck your elbows
in and rest them against your body.

3. Hold camera at balance point: with every camera and lens combination, there is always going to
be a point at which the camera setup won’t be neither front nor back-heavy.

4. Hold camera to your face: while some of us might prefer to use the back of the camera screen to
frame images, shooting with your arms extended is always going to introduce more camera
shake.

5. Push the camera to your head: once your arms are close to your body and fully tucked in, you
can help stabilize the camera even more by slightly pushing the camera against your head.

6. Bonus tip – breathe out right before squeezing the shutter release: Again, this trick is known to those
who have served in the military or have experience shooting long-range rifles.

Camera Lens

Each part of the lens serves an important purpose:

1. Filter thread: Lets you attach lens filters to modify light that reaches your camera sensor

2. Front element: Collects light and bends it to the other lens elements

3. Lens hood thread: Lets you attach lens hoods to block sunlight and reduce flare

4. Zoom ring: Rotates to zoom the lens in and out

5. Focus ring: Rotates to focus manually; does not rotate when camera autofocuses

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 6. Lens name: Identifies lens

7. A/M switch: Switches between autofocus and manual focus

Prime Lenses

Prime lenses are lenses with a fixed focal length. This means
that they cannot zoom in or out. You have to move closer
or farther away from your subject to change the
composition of your image.

Prime lenses have several advantages over zoom lenses.

They usually have higher image quality because they have
fewer optical elements and less distortion. They also have
larger apertures (smaller f-numbers) which allow more lights to enter the lens and create a shallow
depth of field. This means that you can achieve a blurred background (also known as bokeh) and
isolate your subject from the surroundings. Another benefit of prime lenses is that they are lighter,
cheaper than zoom lenses, they are easier to carry around and more affordable for beginners.

The main disadvantage of prime lenses is that they are less versatile than zoom lenses. You have to
change lenses more often if you want to capture different scenes or subjects. You also have to move
around more to get the right framing and angle.

Some common prime lens focal lengths and their uses are:

• 35mm: This is a popular focal length for street photography because it captures a wide enough
view without distorting the edges too much. It also creates a natural-looking perspective that
mimics the human eye.

• 50mm: This is often called the “nifty fifty” because it is a versatile and inexpensive lens that can
be used for various purposes. It is ideal for portraits because it produces flattering facial features
and a nice bokeh effect.

• 85mm: This is a great focal length for headshots because it compresses the background and
makes the subject stand out more. It also minimizes any facial distortion that might occur with
wider lenses.

Zoom Lenses

Zoom lenses are lenses with a variable focal length.

This means that they can zoom in or out by changing
the distance between the optical elements inside the
lens.

They are more versatile and convenient because

they allow you to change the focal length without
changing the lens or moving around. You can
capture different scenes or subjects with one lens.
Another benefit of zoom lenses is that they are more
flexible and adaptable to different situations.

The main disadvantage of zoom lenses is that they usually have lower image quality than prime lenses.
They have more optical elements and more distortion which can affect the sharpness and contrast of
the images. They also have smaller apertures (larger f-numbers) which limit the amount of light that
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enters the lens and create a deeper depth of field. This means that you cannot achieve a blurred
background as easily as with prime lenses. Another drawback of zoom lenses is that they are heavier
and more expensive than prime lenses.

Some common zoom lens ranges and their uses are:

• 18-55mm: This is a standard kit lens that comes with most entry-level DSLR or mirrorless cameras.
It covers a wide range of focal lengths from wide-angle to standard to telephoto. It is suitable
for general purpose photography such as landscapes, portraits, events, etc.

• 24-70mm: This is a professional-grade zoom lens that offers high image quality and
performance. It covers a similar range as the kit lens but with a larger aperture and better optics.
It is ideal for weddings, journalism, travel, etc.

• 70-200mm: This is a telephoto zoom lens that allows you to capture distant subjects such as
sports, wildlife, concerts, etc. It has a large aperture and a fast autofocus system. It also creates
a beautiful bokeh effect and isolates the subject from the background.

Wide-Angle Lenses

Wide-angle lenses are lenses with a focal length shorter

than 35mm. This means that they can capture a wider
field of view than the human eye can see. Wide-angle
lenses have several advantages over other lens types.
They can create a sense of depth and perspective in the
images by exaggerating the distance between the
foreground and the background. They can also fit more
of the scene into the frame, which is useful for
landscapes, architecture, interiors, etc.

Another benefit of wide-angle lenses is that they can

create a creative or dramatic effect in the images by
distorting the edges or corners of the frame. This can add some interest or fun to the photos.

The main disadvantage of wide-angle lenses is that they can also create unwanted distortion, flare or
vignetting in the images. Distortion is when straight lines appear curved or bent in the images. Flare is
when bright light sources create streaks or spots in the images. Vignetting is when the corners of the
images are darker than the center.

Some common wide-angle lens focal lengths and their uses are:

• 14mm: This is an ultra-wide-angle lens that can capture an extremely wide field of view of about
114 degrees. It can create a circular or fisheye effect in the images. It is ideal for landscapes,
astrophotography, creative shots, etc.

• 24mm: This is a wide-angle lens that can capture a wide field of view of about 84 degrees. It
can create a natural-looking perspective and depth in the images. It is ideal for architecture,
interiors, environmental portraits, etc.

• 28mm: This is a wide-angle lens that can capture a slightly narrower field of view of about 75
degrees. It can create a realistic and balanced perspective and depth in the images. It is ideal
for street photography, documentary photography, group shots, etc.

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Ultra-Wide-Angle / Fisheye Lenses

Ultra-wide-angle lenses are lenses with a focal length

shorter than 14mm.

They are also known as fisheye lenses because they

can capture an extremely wide field of view of more
than 180 degrees. This means that they can capture
almost everything in front of them, including their own
lens hood or filter.

They can create a circular or distorted effect in the

images that can be artistic or fun. They can also fit
more of the scene into the frame than any other lens type, which is useful for interiors, panoramas, etc.

Another benefit of ultra-wide-angle lenses is that they can create a sense of immersion or involvement
in the images by making the viewer feel like they are part of the scene.

Some common ultra-wide-angle lens focal lengths and their uses are:

• 8mm: This is a circular fisheye lens that can capture

a circular field of view of about 180 degrees. It can
create a circular image with black borders around
it. It is ideal for creative shots, panoramas, etc.

• 10mm: This is a diagonal fisheye lens that can

capture a diagonal field of view of about 180
degrees. It can create a full-frame image with
curved edges and corners. It is ideal for interiors,
astrophotography, etc.

• 12mm: This is an ultra-wide-angle lens that can

capture a very wide field of view of about 122 degrees. It can create a full-frame image with
minimal distortion and vignetting. It is ideal for landscapes, architecture, etc.

Standard / Kit Lenses

Standard / kit lenses are lenses with a focal length

between 35mm and 85mm.

They are also known as normal lenses because they

produce natural-looking images that are similar to
what the human eye sees. Standard / kit lenses have
several advantages over other lens types. They are
versatile and easy to use because they can capture
a variety of scenes and subjects without much
distortion or compression.

They are also usually included with most entry-level

DSLR or mirrorless cameras, which makes them
affordable and accessible for beginners.

The main disadvantage of standard / kit lenses is that they are not very special or unique compared
to other lens types.
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They do not have a large aperture or a fast autofocus system, which limits their performance in low-
light situations or fast-moving subjects.

They also do not have a wide or telephoto range, which limits their creative potential.

Some common standard / kit lens focal lengths and their uses are:

• 35mm: This is a standard lens that can capture a normal field of view of about 63 degrees. It
can create a natural-looking perspective and depth in the images. It is ideal for documentary
photography, everyday photography, group shots, etc.

• 50mm: This is a standard lens that can capture a slightly narrower field of view of about 47
degrees. It can create a slightly compressed perspective and depth in the images. It is ideal for
portraits, street photography, food photography, etc.

• 85mm: This is a telephoto lens that can capture a narrow field of view of about 29 degrees. It
can create a shallow depth of field and a bokeh effect in the images. It is ideal for close-up
portraits, headshots, flowers, etc.

Telephoto Lenses

Telephoto lenses are lenses with a focal length

longer than 85mm. They are also known as long
lenses because they can magnify distant
subjects and make them appear closer than
they actually are.

Telephoto lenses have several advantages over

other lens types.

They can capture details and emotions of

faraway subjects such as sports, wildlife,
concerts, etc.

They can also create a shallow depth of field

and a bokeh effect in the images, which
isolates the subject from the background and draws attention to it.

Another benefit of telephoto lenses is that they can create a compression effect in the images by
making the distance between the foreground and the background appear smaller than it actually is.
This can create a dramatic or cinematic effect in the photos.

The main disadvantage of telephoto lenses is that they are heavy and expensive compared to other
lens types.

They are harder to carry around and more costly for beginners. They also require a tripod or a stabilizer
to avoid camera shake, which can blur the images.

Some common telephoto lens focal lengths and their uses are:

• 100mm: This is a macro lens that can capture close-up details of small subjects such as insects,
flowers, jewelry, etc. It can also create a 1:1 magnification ratio, which means that the subject
appears as large on the sensor as it does in real life.

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 • 135mm: This is a telephoto lens that can capture candid portraits of people without disturbing
them or making them aware of the camera. It can also create a soft and smooth bokeh effect
in the images.

• 200mm: This is a telephoto lens that can capture distant subjects such as sports, wildlife,
concerts, etc. It can also create a shallow depth of field and a bokeh effect in the images.

Super-Telephoto Lenses

Super-telephoto lenses are lenses with a focal

length longer than 400mm. They are also known
as extreme telephoto lenses because they can
magnify very distant subjects and make them
appear much closer than they actually are.

Super-telephoto lenses have several

advantages over other lens types.

They can capture extreme details and emotions

of very faraway subjects such as birds,
wildlife, moon, etc.

They can also create a very shallow depth of

field and a bokeh effect in the images, which
isolates the subject from the background and
draws attention to it.

Another benefit of super-telephoto lenses is that they can create a very strong compression effect in
the images by making the distance between the foreground and the background appear much
smaller than it actually is. This can create a dramatic or cinematic effect in the photos.

The main disadvantage of super-telephoto lenses is that they are very heavy and very expensive
compared to other lens types.

They are very hard to carry around and very costly for beginners. They also require a tripod or a stabilizer
to avoid camera shake, which can blur the images.

How to Choose the Right Lens Type for Your Photography Needs

Choosing the right lens type for your photography needs depends on several factors, such as:

• The subject matter: What are you photographing? Is it a landscape, a portrait, a wildlife, a
product, or something else? Different subjects may require different lens types to capture them
effectively.

• The desired outcome: What are you trying to achieve with your photos? Do you want to show a
wide or narrow field of view, a shallow or deep depth of field, a natural or distorted perspective,
a special or normal effect, or something else? Different outcomes may require different lens
types to create them successfully.

• The available light: How much light do you have in your shooting environment? Is it bright or
dark, natural or artificial, constant or changing? Different light conditions may require different
lens types to handle them properly.

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 • The budget: How much money do you have to spend on your lenses? Are you looking for a
cheap or expensive, basic or advanced, single or multiple lens option? Different price ranges
may offer different lens types to suit your needs.

Some tips on how to choose the right lens type based on these factors are:

• Start with a standard or kit lens. This is a versatile and easy-to-use lens that can cover a wide
range of focal lengths and situations. It is usually included with most entry-level cameras and is
affordable and accessible for beginners.

• Add a prime lens. This is a high-quality and fast lens that can produce sharp and bright images
with a shallow depth of field and a bokeh effect. It is ideal for portraits, street photography, food
photography, etc. You can choose a focal length that matches your preferred style or subject
matter, such as 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, etc.

• Add a zoom lens. This is a flexible and convenient lens that can change the focal length without
changing the lens or moving around. It is ideal for general purpose photography, weddings,
journalism, travel, etc. You can choose a range that complements your standard or kit lens,
such as 18-55mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm, etc.

• Add a specialty lens. This is a unique and creative lens that can create special effects or solve
specific problems in photography. It is ideal for architecture, landscape, product, miniature,
close-up or macro, creative shots, panoramas, astrophotography, etc. You can choose a type
that matches your interest or challenge, such as tilt-shift, macro, fisheye, etc.

Viewing and Focusing Systems:

• SINGLE LENS REFLEX- the camera uses one lens for both taking and viewing

• TWIN LENS REFLEX- the camera uses two lenses, one for viewing and one for taking photographs.

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 SOME TYPES OF CAMERA:

• PINHOLE CAMERA- a camera of simple design and

construction usually home made consisting of a box having a
small aperture functioning as lens at one end, the image being
projected on the film at the other end.

• BOX CAMERA- a simple camera is little more than a

pinhole camera. It has a lens and a shutter.

• MINIATURE CAMERA- are precision instrument

designed for small objects.

PARTS OF AN SLR CAMERA:

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R1: Eyecup

The eyecup prevents external light from entering when your eye
is in contact with the eyepiece. A soft material is used to reduce
the burden on the eye and the forehead.

R2: Viewfinder Eyepiece

The viewfinder eyepiece is a small window on the camera

which you look through in order to compose your photo and
establish focus on a subject. When shooting using a viewfinder,
external light is reduced. This allows you to put full attention on
the subject right before your eyes, which in turn makes it easier
to track moving subjects.

R3: LCD Monitor

In addition to the shooting settings as shown in the illustration

here, the captured image as well as text information such as the
menu can also be displayed on the LCD monitor. Also, you can
magnify the display image to check the details.

R4: MENU Button

Use this button to display the menu for adjusting the different
camera functions. After selecting a menu item, you can adjust
the camera settings in greater detail.

R5: Playback Button

This is the button for playing back images you have captured.
Pressing the button once displays the last image you captured
or showed on the LCD monitor.

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R6: Wi-fi Lamp

This lamp indicates the wireless connection status.

Lamp on: Wi-fi connection is on
Blinking lamp: Camera is waiting for connection/reconnection
Intermittent rapidly-blinking lamp: Connection error
Rapidly blinking lamp: Data is being sent/received

R7: Access Lamp

The lamp appears blinking when there is data transmission between

the camera and the memory card. Do not open the card slot or
battery compartment cover while the light is blinking. Doing so may
cause the camera to malfunction.

R8: SET Button/Multi-controller

The Multi-controller keys are directional buttons that allow you to:
- Move between menu items
- Move a magnified display to a different point during image
playback
- Move the AF point during AF point selection
In shooting mode, the functions of the keys switches to the ones
indicated by the icon on it. Meanwhile, the SET button confirms a
selection.

R9: ISO Speed Setting Button

Press this button to adjust the sensitivity of the camera toward light.
ISO speed is an international standard that is determined based
on the sensitivity of negative films.

R10: Quick Control Button

Pressing this button displays the Quick Control screen (further

explained in the section "Settings on the Quick Control Screen"),
which allows you to confirm various camera settings at one
glance and adjust them.

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R11: Display Button

By pressing the DISP button, you can:

- Turn the display on/off
- Toggle between different information displays in Image/Movie
Playback mode and during Live View shooting
- Display the camera’s major function settings when the menu is
displayed

R12: Erase Button

Use this button to erase unwanted images.

R13: Focus Point Selection Button

Use this button to go into AF point (autofocus) selection mode

during AF shooting. You can then select any of the AF points
manually using the Multi-controller keys.

R14: Live View Shooting/ Movie Shooting Switch

Use this button to turn on or turn off the Live View function. Pressing
the button once displays the Live View image on the LCD monitor,
and the camera is ready for Live View shooting. To record a movie,
set the shooting mode to “Movie Shooting” on the mode dial (T6),
and press this button to start recording. To stop, press the button
again.

R15: Dioptric Adjustment Knob

Use this knob to adjust the clarity of the viewfinder image

according to your eyesight. To do so, turn the knob while looking
through the viewfinder.

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F1: Shutter Button

Press this button to release the shutter. The shutter button press has
two stages: Half-pressing the button activates the AF function, while
pressing it down fully releases the shutter.

F2: Red-eye reduction/self-timer lamp

Red-eye reduction: If red-eye reduction is enabled on your camera,

half-pressing the shutter button will light up this lamp when you use
the built-in flash.
Self-timer: When you set the self-timer, this lamp will blink for the
duration of the timer until the picture is taken.

F3: Lens Mount

This is the section that connects the interchangeable lens to the

camera body. To attach the lens, you line up the lens mount index
(see F3) on the lens with the corresponding one on the lens mount
and turn the lens clockwise until you hear a click.

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F4: Lens Mount Index

Align the mark on the lens with this mark when you are attaching or
detaching a lens.
Red index: For EF lenses (Can be used on both Canon full-frame and
APS-C DSLRs)
White index: For EF-S lenses (Can be used on Canon APS-C DSLRs)
Find out more about the different types of lenses and their key
concepts in:
In Focus: Lens Basics
F5: Lens Release Button
Press this button when you want to detach the lens. The lens lock
pin retracts when the button is pressed, enabling you to turn the lens
freely. Before shooting, lock the lens into place by turning it until you
hear a click.

F6: Mirror

The mirror is unique to DSLR cameras. It reflects light from the lens
into the viewfinder, which lets the photographer see the shot
through the viewfinder in real time. The mirror flips up immediately
right before shutter release (the shot is taken).

F7: Microphone

This is a built-in microphone for capturing the audio sound during

movie recording. The microphone used may be monaural or
stereo depending on the camera model.

F8: Built-in Flash

When needed, you can fire the flash to capture a shot in a

dimly-lit scene. The flash may be automatically fired in some
modes.

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Forensic Photography
T1: Focus Mode Switch

Use this switch to set the focusing mode to Automatic (AF) or

Manual (MF).

T2: Speaker

Audio sound of a recorded movie can be played back through

the speaker. During movie playback, turning the Main Dial allows
you to adjust the volume level. Not only so, you can also select and
play back the background music from the menu screen.

T3: Strap Mount

Pull the end of the strap through the eyelet, and secure it firmly
while ensuring that the two ends of the strap are well-balanced.

T4: Hot Shoe

This is a terminal for attaching external flash units. Data is

transmitted between the camera and the flash unit through the
contacts. Maintain the contacts in a clean state to ensure proper
firing of the external flash when needed.

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
T5: Power Switch

Use this switch to power on or power off the camera. When the power
of the camera is left on for a prolonged period of time, it switches
automatically to the standby mode to conserve power. For some
cameras, the power switch comes with a Movie icon as shown in the
illustration, which allows you to switch to the Movie shooting mode
directly.

T6: Mode Dial

Turn this dial to select a shooting mode according to the scene
you want to capture. The shooting modes are largely divided into
two different zones, Creative and Basic.
A: Creative Zone
The Creative Zone modes allow users to select and set functions
according to their intended purpose.
B: Basic Zone
In the Basic Zone modes, the camera automatically selects the
appropriate settings according to the selected scene.

T7: Flash Button

Use this button to pop up the built-in flash. In the Basic Zone, the
built-in flash may pop up automatically in some cases according
to the function in use.

T8: Main Dial

This is a multi-purpose dial that allows you to perform tasks such as

adjusting the value of the shooting settings (usually
aperture/shutter speed/exposure compensation) and jumping
through playback images.

T9: Zoom Ring

Turn the zoom ring to alter the focal length. The selected focal
length can be identified from the numbers and index marks at
the lower end of the lens

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
T10: Focus Ring

When the camera is in the Manual Focus (MF) mode, turn this ring
to adjust the focus. The position of the focus ring varies according
to the lens in use.

QC1: Shooting Mode

Displays the text or icon corresponding to the shooting mode you have
selected as you turn the Mode Dial.

QC2: Shutter Speed

Displays the time interval during which the shutter is open. Increasing the
parameter value shortens the time interval the shutter remains open.

QC3: Battery Level

Displays the remaining battery level with an icon. The illustration here
shows the state when the battery level is still full. The icon display
changes as the battery level decreases.

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
QC4: Shots Remaining

Indicates the number of remaining shots that can be captured. The

number varies with the capacity of the memory card in use as well as
the image-recording quality you have selected.

QC5: Image-recording Format/ Quality

Displays the image-recording quality that is currently selected. The icon

here indicates that the camera is set to record in the Large JPEG
format.

QC6: ISO Speed

A higher ISO speed makes it easier to capture shots of a dimly-lit scene.

Generally, ISO 100 is used as the standard setting. In the ISO Auto
setting, the optimal value is automatically selected according to the
scene. You can also choose to set the ISO speed manually.

QC7: Aperture Value

This value indicates the extent to which the aperture blades inside the
lens are open. A smaller value means the aperture is more widely open,
which allows more light to be captured. The aperture value is also
known as the f-number, which\ varies with the lens in use.

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Forensic Photography
B1: Card Slot, Battery Compartment
Battery Compartment
Load the supplied battery here. Insert the battery with the
orientation of the battery terminal aligned with that inside the
camera.
Card Slot
Insert the memory card for recording images into this slot. The
type of card usable varies with the camera model.

B2: Tripod Socket

This is a socket placed at bottom of the camera body for

attaching the camera to a tripod. On most DSLR cameras, this
socket fits the 1/4-20 UNC standard screw thread size, which is
used by most commonly-available tripods.

End of lesson 2
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
LESSON 3: The Basic Principles of Photography

Principles of Photography

A photograph is both mechanical and chemical results of photography. To produce a

photography, light is needed aside from sensitized materials (film or paper). Light radiated or reflected
by the subject must reach the film while all other lights are excluded. The exclusion of all other light is
achieved by placing the film inside a light tight box (camera). The effect of light on the film is not visible
in the formation of images of objects. To make it visible, we need or require a chemical processing of
the exposed film called development.
The visual effect of light on the film after development varies with the quantity or quality of
light that reached the emulsion of the film. Too great in the amount of light will produce a transparent
or while shade after development. The amount of light reaching the film is dependent upon several
factors like lightning condition, lens opening used, shutter speed used, filter used, etc.

EXPOSURE

The quantity of light allowed to act on photographic material.

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
PRINCIPLE: If you provide insufficient amount of light, the photo will be too dark. If you expose too much
light, the photo will be too bright. The larger the deviation from the normal exposure is, the more
chance you have to hopelessly lose image data.

Quick check:

Observe the photos above, basing it from the principle mentioned, What does the first photo say?

What does the second photo say?

APERTURE:

Pertains to how large the hole is through which the sensor sees the world. In photography, aperture is
measured in units called F-numbers, F-stops or whatever else with this F-. (F- 8).

PRINCIPLE:

The larger the depth of field (smaller the F- number) is, the more objects are in focus. And the smaller
the aperture (the larger the F-number) is, the larger the depth of field is.

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
Quick check: Observe the photos above, basing it from the principle mentioned (Note: the bear in
front is what you are focusing),

What does the first photo say?

What does the second photo say?

SHUTTER SPEED:

Shutter speed or exposure time is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is
exposed to light, also when a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph.

Note: Observe the image above. The numbers above are your choices in the camera itself.

PRINCIPLE:

If you want to get a sharp object, make sure the shutter speed is fast enough to freeze its motion. If you
want to get a motion-blurred object to emphasize the movement, make sure the shutter speed is slow
enough.
- At bright day light, use hundredths of a second. When cloudy, in shade etc., might be tenths of a
second. At night it comes to full seconds.

Quick check: Observe the photos above, basing it from the principle mentioned,

What does the first photo say?

What does the second photo say?

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography
ISO (What does ISO mean? __________________________________)

Refers to how sensitive the camera sensor is to light. It is measured in numbers (ISO 200)

NOTE: ISO numbers depends on the camera, some ISO will reach up to 12,800 but some don’t.

PRINCIPLE:

The higher the ISO sensitivity is, the more light will be captured by the sensor. The lower the ISO sensitivity
is, the less light will be captured by the sensor.

NOTE: Please disregard the blue shaped oblong at the top parts of the image.

Quick check: Observe the photos above, basing it from the principle mentioned,

What does the first photo say?

What does the second photo say?

GENEIL N. DELA CRUZ

Forensic Photography