Summer Moisturizer
Summer Moisturizer
Looking up summer moisturisers they all seem to be gel creams, least most of them do. I’ve not
made one before, but did have some Sepinov EMT 10 in stock from when I made the sol janiero
cream, so I figured I’d make use of it as it can emulsify up to 50% oils and creates a lovely gel
consistency. It can also help with stability of a product.
I’ve included some an�-aing ingredients in the cool down, but you can subs�tute for any extracts or
other ac�ves you like really. You just need to check pH tolerance and compa�bility. You cannot use
Ca�onic ingredients with Sepinov EMT 10.
Phase A
48% Dis�lled Water (INCI: Aqua ) – Solvent/dilutant
10% Rose Water Hydrolat (INCI: Rosa Damascena) – Dis�lled rose water for scent and skin benefits.
2% Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) A
thickener and emulsifier that produces light weight gels ideal for cream gels and can emulsify up to
50% oils. It helps with product stability and gives the product an elegant feel. Also available at
Lo�on Cra�er in the US.
Phase B
15% Glycerine (INCI: Glycerin) – Humectant, you could also use Propanediol 1,3 or even some
Propylene Glycol instead if you wish.
1.5% Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum) – thickener, you can use xanthan gum
instead if you wish.
Phase C
2% Cetyl Alcohol (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol) – Thickener and co-emulsifier that moisturizes and gives an
elegant feel to the moisturizer.
5% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (INCI: C12-15 Alky Benzoate) – Lightweight emollient ester, that gives an
elegant feel and prevents the formula�on from feeling greasy. It’s skin so�ening and seals in
moisture.
5% Ecosilk (INCI: Isoamyl Laurate) – a lightweight silicone alterna�ve that gives a beau�ful silky
texture to creams, lo�ons and serums. 100% vegetable based and biodegradable,
5% Camellia Oil (INCI: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil) – a lightweight fast absorbing oil that is great for
moisturizing the skin, and increasing elas�city. If you would like an oil free moisturizer omit this and
up the caprylic capric triglyceride.
Phase D
2% Saligard PCG (INCI: Caprylyl glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol) - Preserva�ve
2% Li�onin (INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Citric Acid, Tannic Acid,
Potassium Sorbate) – improves the appearance of the skin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles
1% Seaweed Extract (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract) – reduces the
effects of sun damage and promotes skin elas�city.
1% Horse Chestnut Extract (INCI: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aqua, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed
Extract) – helps to prevent damage to the skin, full of an�oxidants. Helps to minimize the
appearance of dark spots.
0.5% Vitamin e (INCI: Tocopherol) – an�oxidant
Method
Prepare phase A buy pu�ng the water in a beaker under high shear. Sprinkle in the Sepinov EMT 10
and keep shear mixing un�l a gel is formed.
Weigh your phase A+B mixture and note down the weight.
Heat phases AB and C in a water bath un�l phase C has melted and both are at around the same
temperature.
Pour phase AB into phase C and shear mix to form your emulsion.
Allow to cool to 40c and then add your cool down phase and s�r well by hand.
Take the pH and adjust to around 4.5-5. If you need to adjust down for any reason, use lac�c acid
instead of citric acid, and adjust your formula percents a�er, as citric can cause the emulsion to fail.
Cover and leave overnight to reach final viscosity and then jar up.
Notes
This is designed to be a nice light summer moisturizer and can be customized easily depending on
your preferences, such as swapping out the hydrolat for a different one or replacing with more water.
Using more or less oil or more or different emollient esters instead. You can change up the cool
down ingredients to suit your skin type. You can add a fragrance if you wish (though check IFRA and
be careful of photosensi�ve essen�al oils, especially in summer).
I’m really pleased with this formula. Its lovely and light and cooled my skin. It absorbs fast and
doesn’t leave my sin feeling greasy.
Disclaimer: These formulas and recipes are experiments created for the purpose of sharing on Patreon and YouTube.
Revega does not make any claims as to their qualifica�ons or the efficacy of the formula�ons which are listed here for
entertainment purposes and accepts no responsibility for how you use these. We are self-taught and offer these videos
from our years of knowledge and experience in making our own cosme�c products.
Remember that if you intend to use one of these formula�ons for your own product range, do your own research,
experiments, adjustments and tests before using, gi�ing or selling.