Scope

Volume 13 Number 01 March 2023

The Use and Implementation of Pareto and Ishikawa Diagram for defect
minimization in manufacturing firms
Dereje Geleta Oljira1& Misgana Lamessa Dinsa2
1
Department of Industrial Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Wollega University Shambu Campus, Ethiopia
2
Department of Water Resources & Irrigation Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Wollega University Shambu
Campus, Ethiopia

Abstract
Many unavoidable challenges in the rejection of a large percentage of finished garment products after
shipment owing to quality control failures in garment manufacturing motivated this article. Global
competition, diminishing profit margins, customer need for products, product variety, and shorter lead
times, among other factors, have a significant impact on the garment manufacturing industry. The need
for higher quality products at a lower price is growing, and clothing manufacturers must enhance their
operations by manufacturing right the first time. This paper examines how to enhance garment
manufacturing quality and productivity by reducing the number of reworks that occur during the
manufacturing process. Using Pareto analysis and the Ishikawa diagram effectively, this study enhances
the process performance of a major operational process, resulting in higher resource utilization, less
variances, and consistent quality of the process output. According to the Pareto principal of 80/20 of
80/20 rule, the up and down sections are rated top in the sewing process area, followed by broken stitch
27.20 percent, uneven stitch 9.44 percent, twisting 6.94 percent, and slip stitch 5.28 percent of defects.
After identifying and ranking the primary causes based on the 80/20 principle, viable solutions were
presented on how to tackle these issues and reduce the rejection rate to a minimum, as well as minimize
costs and increase internal throughput time. This study provides a general summary of the development,
stating that by decreasing faults, an industry can earn higher production and profitability.
Keywords: 1.Sewing, 2.Pareto, 3.Defects, 4.Productivity, 5.Ishikawa

1. Introduction
Global economic conditions vary frequently, and profit margins, customer demand for high-quality products,
and increased efficiency are often prioritized in a sector. After shipment, there are always a few rejected
garments in the garment manufacturing industry. Most manufacturers consider clothing to be soft
commodities, with non-repairable faults occurring as a result of low-quality raw materials, poor methods, or
casual employee behavior.
Factory checkpoints, on the other hand, are required to address this issue. There is no ready-made remedy that
can minimize the percentage of rejections in a single day. Each order is distinct. However, the research
presented in this paper reveals how to deal with such issues and keep the rejection rate to a bare minimum
through high-quality production. Most organizations label these clothing rejected since they cannot be mended
in any way, as we observe in many rejected garments after shipment.
Reworks are a typical occurrence in the garment business, and they impede smooth production rates by
focusing on low-quality items, which have an impact on the entire factory economy. Rework must be
minimized to improve quality and productivity. Rework is a critical issue for low-value-added operations, such

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as those that clients are unwilling to pay for. Nonproductive behaviors show that the customer does not believe
the product can be improved.
The corporation can invest less money and save more costs by reacting faster in the minimizing of reworks to
develop a product that meets customer demand with expected quality.
As a result, a study was conducted in the sewing sector of the Gullele Garment Share Company, which is
located in Gullele (Asko), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, to discover reworks and eradicate them to save time,
money, and enhance product quality. The Gullele Garment Share Company, founded in 1983 in Addis
Ababa's Gulele Sub-city, is one of Ethiopia's garment factories. It manufactures a variety of garments for
export and domestic use, including T-shirts, athletic wear, and military uniforms.
The industry is divided into three sections: cutting, sewing, and finishing. This research focuses on the sewing
area of the garment to raise firm efficiency, production, reduce time, and increase profit, all of which have a
significant impact on the country's economy.

2. Problem Statement
Establish and maintain clear, complete, and current written records of inspection and test methods for each
operation to be effective in defect and rejection reduction. These records were utilized to determine the
acceptance/rejection criterion. Fabric is the most important raw material in the garment manufacturing
industry, followed by various forms of trimming and accessories. Top surface rework, printed label rework,
stitching flaws, pinhole rework, fabric defects, inappropriate fly shape, and other reworks are examples of
operational wastage in the garment manufacturing process (at Gullele Garment S.C.). It is required to produce
a document and maintain a system capable of guaranteeing that goods comply with standard requirements to
meet the ultimate goal of minimizing faults and rejecting finished items. This is essential at all phases of the
manufacturing process. These standards must be met by all records. These flaws and faults cause industries to
fail or go out of business.
3. Literature Review
The current worldwide market's increasing competition necessitates a significant demand for the industry's
continued evolution. As a result of the increasing demands of customer needs and expectations, global firms
are constantly seeking a competitive advantage. Quality is more efficient and effective in the global market,
resulting in increased production, customer loyalty, and market share. Quality is an ephemeral term whose
meaning shifts with time. Quality used to be defined as "conformance to valid client requirements." That is, an
output was regarded conforming, good, or acceptable if it fell within accepted limitations, known as
specification limits, around a desired value, known as the nominal value or target value. This is what we call
the "goalpost" definition of quality (Deming, 1950).
Quality is one of the most important choice variables in purchasing products and services, according to
(Montgomery, 2005). As a result, quality promotes corporate success, growth, increased competitiveness, and
better working conditions. It also involves employees helping the company achieve its objectives and provides
a significant return on investment. Understanding, meeting, exceeding, and beyond client demands and
expectations must be the goal of quality research and analysis (Kolarik, 1995).
Statistical tools allow the measurement and evaluation of the performance of a process to improve its quality.
These tools are frequently used to support decision making. Montgomery (2005) additionally states that
statistical tools can be helpful in developing activities prior to manufacturing, in measuring process variability,
in analyzing this variability relative to product requirements or specifications, and in eliminating or greatly
reducing variability in the process. These tools allow the interpretation of the process by detecting when the

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variables change and experimentation by knowing how the variables can change according to the experimental
design (Ott et al., 2000).
Among the many quality tools available for problem solving, the Pareto Diagram and Fishbone Diagram are
the most important as they discover the root causes and eliminate them, enabling continuous improvement of
any process. Dr. Juran suggested the use of Pareto principle,also known as the 80/20 rule of quality control for
separating the "vitalproblems from the "trivial now called the "useful (Varsha and Vilas, 2014) stated that the
results of a Pareto analysis are typically represented through a histogram sorted from the highest to the lowest
frequency.
It is also considered one of the seven statistical quality tools in the food industry that is frequently applied to
break a problem into several parts and identify which parts directly affect the issue and which parts don’t. The
cause-and-effect diagram is a schematic tool that resembles a fishbone that lists causes and sub causes as they
relate to a concern, also known as the Fishbone diagram or Ishikawa diagram (Hagemeyer, et al., 2006).
“Root Cause Analysis is a structural investigation that aims to identify the true cause of a problem, and the
actions necessary to eliminate it”. According to (Anderson and Fagerhaug, 2006), if root cause analysis is used
in a reactive mode, it provides an objective identification of organizational faults. In the proactive mode, the
root cause analysis identifies and prevents future mistakes. (Wilson et al., 1993) described various techniques
used in a Root Cause Analysis (RCA) are; Why-Why Analysis (WWA), Brainstorming Sessions (Kalantri and
Saurabh, 2012) as well as Corrective and Preventive Action (CAPA) plan. WWA is a methodology to inquire
about the root cause behind the surface causes of a problem by asking ―whymany times in succession.
Corrective action is taken to eliminate the cause of a detected problem, which prevents it from recurring,
whereas preventive action is defined as the action taken to eliminate the cause of a potential problem from
occurring (Ketola and Roberts, 2003). After identifying the root causes,the CAPA plan is an essential quality
tool that can be used to record the actions needed to successfully carry out the implementation to avoid
repetition of problems.
(Wilson et al., 1993) defined Root Cause Analysis as an analytical tool that can be used to perform corrective
and comprehensive system-based reviews of critical defects. This includes the identification of the root and
contributory factors, determination of defect reduction strategies, and development of action plans along with
measurement strategies to evaluate the effectiveness of the plans. The Canadian Root Cause Analysis
Framework (2005) states that root-cause analysis is an important component of the understanding of defects.
(Mohiuddin Ahmed and Nafis Ahmad, 2011) minimized defects in the lamp production process by applying
Pareto analysis and a cause-and-effect diagram. They worked for zero waste and zero-defect objectives. They
studied the lamp production process by using production data. They also work for data collection in all steps
involved inlamp production with month-wise rejection in the group production system. The author applied
Pareto analysis to all defects and found the major and minor contributors. Finally, the author applies cause-
and-effect diagrams to each defect and determines the main factor. Therefore, they suggest that the cause-and-
effect diagram is very useful in indicating the appearance of abnormalities of process in the form of excessive
variations of process parameters.
(Mazedul et al., 2013) suggested ways to handle these issues and reduce the rejection rate to a minimum in the
sewing section of the apparel industry. Based on their findings, the sewing percent defects were reduced
byapproximately to 80%. Reworking increased the cost of the different work categories from 2% to 15%.
The Pareto chart that helps us to prioritize our efforts and focus attention on the most pressing problem or
symptoms it is the cause-and-effect diagram that helps to lead us to the root cause of the problem (Devoret al.,
2007).

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4. Design and Methodology

This chapter comprises all strategies used by Gullele Company to improve the garment industry's quality based
on the reported imperfect items for two consecutive months. It also covers how to prevent inappropriate flaws
to reduce rework, manage time, boost productivity, and support the company's global market development.
It is also required to nominate a management representative who is responsible for managing the complete
control system and inspection at each manufacturing stage, preferably independent of other functions. The
designated individual should have the authority to carry out any action necessary to meet the desired product
requirements. A planned periodic assessment by top management is required to guarantee that the system's
effectiveness is maintained.
The general methodology followed to minimize the defects rate is given in the following steps.
Review of the existing quality

system in the company

Training personnel like QC s,

Identification of defects in the
supervisors and checkers on
various departments by collecting
filling in the format identify Cause
data from old and present records
& Effect

Analysis of data collected in order Analysis of defects in the check sheets

to identify majorly occurring implemented in various dept. & devising

defects suggestions to improve

Categorization of defects as per

Spreading of Inline inspection to
different section other lines

Development of a model in Tracking of improvements and

comparing them with previous
Quality Inspection System
situation in different departments

Implementation of check sheets to Visual communication of

capture defects in different
departments
performance

Training on concepts of quality, If ok then maintain and establish

usage of the collected data to the standard for ongoing
production process.
analyze and solve quality issues

Fig 1. The general methodology followed to minimize the defects rate

(Source: The author)

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Sewing Room Repair Standard Operation Procedures (SOP)

Alteration Received by Handed over Bundle is on Section

peices from respective to section with inline Supervisor get
end line inline supervisor QC piece altered
No

Inline QC checks the

Re-End line Re-Inline
Line out Pass Pass numbering and
Inspection Inspection
matching with bundle

Rejection

Alteration Rejected Handed over Handed over to

Registration pieces are to production stores (Leftover
Marked accounts Section)

Sewing
Daily rejection
Leftover Receipt
sewing report
sheet

Fig 2. Sewing Room Repair SOP (Source: The Company)

4.1. Sewing Section

Sewing is the process of joining two fabric portions together with needle and thread stitches. Sewing is one of
the most fundamental tasks in the garment-making process. In the ready-made garment industry, the sewing
department is the most important. In the sewing sector, many forms of faults or defects occur, which must be
reduced to maintain the required garment quality. This article has shown all flaws made in the sewing sector of
a garment manufacturing factory because of its importance.
Cutting, stitching, and finishing are all part of the Gullele clothing industry. We concentrated on the sewing
section in this project because it is crucial to the industry's defect production.
Maintaining a high level of quality in any industry or business is critical to increase sales and build a better
reputation among customers and competitors. Quality control is practiced in the garment industry from the
beginning of the sourcing of raw materials to the end of the finished garment. Product quality is measured in
terms of fiber, yarn, fabric construction, color fastness, surface design, and final finished garment items in the
textile and apparel sector. Quality expectations for exports, on the other hand, are linked to client categories
and retail locations. The garment industry's quality fitness is determined by a number of variables, including
performance, reliability, durability, and the visual and perceived quality of the garment.
Quality has to be defined in terms of a budget. National regulatory quality certification and international
quality programs like the ISO 9000 series establish broad quality requirements by which enterprises in the
textile and apparel sector maintain export quality. Here are some of the most important fabric qualities to
consider when making garments for export: -
The garment's overall appearance.

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 The garment should be properly formed.

 The garment's feel and fall.
Physical characteristics
 The garment's colorfastness
Finishing characteristics
 Presentation of the finished product
Certain quality-related issues in garment manufacturing should not be overlooked.
Sewing faults include things like open seams, incorrect stitching techniques, the same color garment with
different color threads, missing stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension, and raw
edges.
Color flaws: non-color faults that could arise include changes in the color of the final created garment
compared to the sample displayed, incorrect color combinations for accessories, and dye mismatching between
components.
Sizing flaws include: - Incorrect size gradation, differences in measurement across garment parts, such as
sleeves that are 'XL' size but the body is 'L' size. It is also necessary to see if such flaws exist.
Faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, wrong button holes, uneven portions,
inappropriate trimming, and fabric color differences are all examples of garment flaws that can arise
throughout the manufacturing process.

Sewing defects
Sewing Section Defects: - In the sewing part, the following defects should be recognized and fixed: -
DefectsInSewing: -
1. Needle damage, such as a thread being pulled
from the fabric or a large hole in the fabric.
2. A stitch that has been skipped
3. Drawn-off thread
4. Puffiness in the seams
5. Incorrect stitch density
6. Stitching that is uneven
7. Stitches that are staggered
8. A Faulty stitch
9. A smear or a patch of oil
Seaming Defects: -
1. Uneven width 7. Unexpected materials are attached to the
2. Uneven seam line sewing
3. Not secured by back stitch 8. Not sewn by matching face side or back
4. Twisting side of fabrics
5. No matching of checks stripe 9. Use of wrong stitch type
6. No matching of seam 10. Wrong shade matching of sewing thread

Assembly Defects: -

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1. Defected finished components by size (e.g., poor size and shape of finished components)
2. Imperfect garment size
3. Misuse of a ticket
4. Any missing parts or a garment with a set design
5. Improper component alignment (i.e., buttons and hook)
6. Wrong interlining placement or creasing
7. Interlining stiffness or looseness
8. Folding of any clothing pieces that have a poor appearance.

Table-1: Defect category wise and percentage defectives in the sewing department

Types of Defects Sewing cumulative Defects Percentage defects (%)

Broken Stitch 98 27.22
Skip Stitch 19 5.28
Puckering 11 3.06
Uneven stitch 34 9.44
Hole/damage 16 4.44
Hook & Bar/Button 5 1.39
Raw edge 3 0.83
Up and Down parts 114 31.70
Shape out 10 2.78
Wrong size 17 4.72
Twisting 25 6.94
Shading 8 2.22
Total 360 100%

5. Pareto Analysis and Ishikawa Diagram (CED)

Pareto chart
Losses appear as a result of quality issues (defective items and their costs). The distribution pattern of this loss
must be clarified as soon as possible. The majority of the damage is caused by a small number of faults, which
may be traced back to a limited number of sources. Thus, if the causes of these critical errors are identified, we
may remove practically all losses by focusing on these specific causes and temporarily ignoring the other
numerous defects. We can address this type of problem quickly by using the Pareto diagram. The Pareto chart
is a type of bar chart in which the values are plotted in ascending order from the largest to smallest. The most
common defects, the most common causes of defects, and the most common causes of customer complaints
are all highlighted using a Pareto chart.
Juran was also the first to recognize that the Pareto Principle can be applied to quality improvement. The
foundation is to separate the critical vital few from the insignificant many.
Data from two months had been collected for this project to identify the key problems that cause frequent
faults in the sewing process of Gullele garments (October and November, 2019).

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The actual rejections (Tables 1 and 2) were divided into categories based on the flaws they contained.

Sewing Defects
100.0%
350 97.8% 99.2%
95.6%
92.8%
89.7% 90.0%
85.3%
300
80.6% 80.0%
75.3%
250 70.0%
68.3%

58.9% 60.0%
Sewing Defects

200
50.0%

150
40.0%
114
31.7%
98 30.0%
100

20.0%

50 34
25 10.0%
19 17 16 11 10 8 5 3
0 0.0%

Types of Defects

Fig 3. Pareto diagram analysis

A crucial view of the Gullele Garment was identified using the Pareto diagram above. This company's quality
production is mostly influenced by up and down parts, which account for 31.7 percent of all problems. As a
result, the second most common problem in the results is broken stitches, which account for 27.2 percent. On
the basis of the cause-and-effect diagram, these two essential issues are explained below.
According to the preceding Pareto diagram, the most common flaws are the upand down components, which
account for up to 31.70 percent of the total as shown in Figure 4. Broken stitches account for 27.20 percent of
all defects, uneven stitch accounts for 9.44 percent, twisting flaws account for 6.94 percent, and skip stitch
accounts for 5.28 percent. These five flaws are the "critical elements that account for 80.6 percent of the overall
rejection in Gullele Garment's sewing process. Other flaws include incorrect size, holes/damage, puckering,

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shading, form, raw edges, hook & bar/button, and joint stitches, among others. With a line of cumulative
percent, Table 2 displays the percentage of each type of factor for failures in the process.
The data analyzed by the cause-and-effect diagram usually comes from a brainstorming session.
The quality team was organized bythe company and was composed of production managers, quality
control,and line supervisors. Brainstorming rules were taught to these team members at the companyso to
establish the cause-and-effect diagram.
The information used to create the cause-and-effect diagram is typically derived from a brainstorming session.
The company's quality team was made up of production managers, quality control specialists, and line
supervisors. These team members were taught brainstorming rules at work to create a cause-and-effect
diagram.

Fig 4. Cause and Effect (Fishbone Diagram) of defects in Sewing section

6. Results and Discussion

Based on the Pareto principal of 80/20 of 80/20 rule, in the sewingprocess department,it is found that up and
down parts are the rank first defects as 31.70 %, then broken stitch is in rank second as 27.20 % of defects, then
uneven stitch as ranked third as 9.44 % of defects then twisting type defect is ranked fourth as 6.94 % of defects
and skip stitch 5.28% of defects.
The CED approach was utilized to discover the root causes in different processing steps of the production
garment after learning about the top priority defect type.
The use of CED in the garment manufacturing industry opens up new possibilities for improving product
quality (both final and intermediate) and increasing production efficiency. This can be performed by extracting
and visualizing the knowledge that has been hidden in previously collected data.
Making the workplace clean – from the fabric store to cutting to sewing to washing and finishing – was advised
as one of the finest methods to control defect generation within the production. Place the quality control
system in the appropriate location. This refers to having a sufficient number of checkers, that they are trained,

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that they make reports while checking, that they analyze the reports, and that they take action based on the
quality check reports.
Conduct a training program for checkers on how to properly check pieces to catch defective ones. Employees
should be taught how to make garment inspection reports. Organize a quality awareness program for your
staff. Each employee must understand the quality standard, and everyone must work together to achieve the
quality goal. The concerned department should not accept any work of poor quality. Operators on a sewing
line are not permitted to leave the bundles open, and each bundle must be completed before moving on to the
next. It will assist you in locating the lost pieces. When operators make a mistake or receive defective
(incomplete) clothing from a previous operator, it is a commonpractice for them to dump pieces beneath
tables. Nobody kept track of these missing pieces until you discovered a clothing shortfall in the finishing
department.
Establish standard operating procedures (SOP) for each task that your workers complete. SOP for each
department's quality control system. Set up an audit team to go over your quality system on a regular basis.
These suggestions were made to each department separately. The percentage of defective items fell once the
suggestions were implemented, as seen below.
The following solutions were proposed after a careful examination of the actual root causes of the defects: -

Table 2: Recommendations for Correcting Sewing Defects

Types of Defects Rank Root causes Corrective Measures

Up and Down 1  Operator inattention  Increasing the size of the bottom or top stop
Parts  Machine's bottom and  Paying close attention to the operation at hand
top parts are not properly
attached
Broken Stitch 2  Broken threads  Thread trimming should not be done
 Incorrect thread tension aggressively;
 Abrasive handling of  Thread feed and tension should be managed;
pieces and
 Workers should be trained to handle the garment
properly.
Uneven Stitch 3  Feeding  Speed control
 Operator  Use proper pressure with skilled human labor
 Pressure

Twisting 4  Misalignment  The front and back should be appropriately

 Trimming matched so that they are the same length.
 Inadequate adjustment  To ensure perfect alignment, notches may be
 Poor operator employed.
 Ensure that the operator does not use scissors to
cut the front or rear to make them the same
length.
 Make sure the sewing machine is set up properly
to feed the top and bottom plies evenly.
Skip stitch 5  Thread tension is correct.  Use needles that are strengthened.
 Use of needles that are  To ensure needle clearance, we use the needle
bent guard.
 Maintain proper thread tension.

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7. Conclusion
Ethiopia's textile sector is extremely important to the country's economy. The rapid expansion of the country's
industry has not been matched by the expansion of backward connection facilities. As a result, producing a
high-quality product is essential to being competitive in today's global market. Customer happiness is the
ultimate criterion for quality. Good quality raises a product's value, establishes a brand name, and establishes a
good reputation for the garment exporter, resulting in consumer happiness, increased sales, and foreign
exchange for the country. The suggested tools established in this study play an important role in eliminating
faults and reworks in the apparel industry's sewing section by ensuring excellent production. A manufacturer's
product quality satisfies his clients at the price they are willing to pay, and he stays in business. As a result,
failing to maintain a sufficient quality level might be disastrous. One of the methods for scientifically
identifying and analyzing key issues that develop in processes is Pareto analysis. The perceived quality of a
garment is the consequence of a variety of factors that work together to provide the buyer with the appropriate
level of satisfaction. However, we must keep in mind that a 1% defective product for an organization is a 100%
defective product for the client who purchases it. Clothing with a high level of comfort and the highest quality
completed product is preferred in the long run. Examine the appearance and compare it to the sketch or photo.
Check for any fabric flaws, sewing thread, seaming flaws, and other technical issues. All problems discovered
during the final inspection should be recorded for quick rectification and to identify the requirement for
Preventive maintenance at a given stage of production.
Finally, every connected worker in and reworks is required to work together to add value, improve quality, and
give higher levels of service to consumers through "Right first time, right-on time, right every time."
Acknowledgements
The authors express their gratitude to the management of Gulalle Garment S.C. for their assistance in
completing the study.

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