Diagnostics of the error code P0410 (Secondary Air

Injection Failure, i.e. the failure in the secondary air

supply) at the Mercedes C230 Kompressor
(Engine 111.981, 2.3L).
The Air Injection Reactor (A.I.R.) is the system designed to supply clean air directly into
the exhaust manifold, bypassing the engine. It works for the first tens of seconds after
the engine’s cold start, when the catalytic converter is not warmed up and afterburning
of exhaust gases in the converter is difficult.

To improve this process and reduce emissions, more oxygen should be supplied to the
converter, i.e. more air. As the catalyst gets hot, the need for additional oxygen
disappears and the A.I.R.system is switched off. This system works for about 30
seconds after a cold start. On the Mercedes C230 Kompressor role of an air pump
performs the compressor with belt drive. On other vehicles the pump is likely electric.

To determine fault in the A.I.R. system, we must follow the way, through which the air
passes. All the diagnostics should be performed on a cold engine, and pretty quickly,
because the working time of the A.I.R. system is limited.
So, look for the air hose coming from the air’s main stream. We find one (see Photo 1)
and disconnect it. Start the engine and put her hand to the connection point (as in the
photo).

- If there is airflow at the outlet pipe - this means that the compressor works properly,
i.e. it pumps the air.
- If there is no air flow, then it clearly indicates the problem with the Kompressor/
Supercharger.
Switch off the engine (until 30 seconds have not expired) and attach the hose back. Go
to the next step, which will be a vacuum check valve.
Disconnect the thin inlet plastic pipe of the valve, as shown in Photo 2, and then turn on
the engine.

There should be a vacuum suction of air at the entrance of this thin pipe. That is, if you
put a finger to the end of the pipe, it should stick.
- If the finger does not sticks, it indicates that the plastic vacuum pipe either damaged,
or clogged or not connected. We must go through the entire length of this pipe and
make sure it is undamaged and connected to the source of vacuum.
- If your finger sticks - this is normal.
Attach the inlet pipe back to the valve and disconnect a similar plastic pipe from the
valve outlet (see Photo 3).

We need to check if there is vacuum suction on the output of the vacuum valve, i.e.
finger should stick.
- If the vacuum at the outlet valve is not present and no finger sticks, you should check
the voltage on the valve connector. If voltage is present, it indicates that the vacuum
check valve is not working and should be replaced. If the voltage is, then you have to
deal with the electrician and valves’ control system.
- If there is vacuum at the outlet and finger sticks, then that's fine. Attach the outlet pipe
back to the valve.
The next unit in the chain will be an air Shut-off valve (see Photo 4).

Disconnect the air hose from the output of the shut-off valve. Turn on the engine again
and put the palm to the exit of shut-off valve (red arrow in Photo 4).
- If the air flow is present, then the shut-off valve is working properly.
- If there is no air coming out of, then the shut-off valve itself is faulty and must be
replaced.
 The next and last unit in the chain will be a check valve (see the look on Photo5).

This valve, let’s say, has one-way air conduction. It allows air to flow in the direction
from the compressor to exhaust manifold, and not in the opposite direction.
Probably, the easiest way to check this valve - is to blow through it with your lips. Since
this valve located in hard-to-reach spot, you may have to stretch out and lie down on
the engine compartment, to bring to the valve’s inlet to the lips.
The air should be blown through the valve easily. If you blow into the valve with goggle
eyes and puffed cheeks and the air is barely coming through, then oh-oh, the valve is
not working and needs to be replaced!
From what I could find on Internet, the carbonized check valve causes an error P0410.
And that was in my case as well.

The lower part of the check valve has threading (see Photo 5), which is screwed into
the brass pipe, which is coming to exhaust manifold.

This brass pipe is firmly attached to the engine body in several places. The valve itself
is in such an awkward place that it is very hard to hold it with hands or use some of the
standard wrench. In addition, there is a risk to bend the brass pipe if you were lucky and
managed to grab the valve and start rotating it. As myself, after many attempts, I
decided to give to a professional mechanic. For very reasonable amount of money,
mechanic removed the valve together with brass pipe from the car and carefully, on the
bench, replaced it.
Immediately after installing of a new check valve, the Check Engine light was not
extinguished. Even after I cleared the code with OBD-II tool, it lightened back next day.
Honestly, I was frustrated. The meantime, I noticed that after replacing the valve and
when I started the cold engine, within the same 30-seconds, the engine’s RPM became
very unstable i.e. "floated". Because at the time the car turned more than 110K km, I
decided it is the time to replace the spark plugs.
As soon as I replaced the plugs, oh miracle, the problem with "floating" RPM has
disappeared, and soon the Check Engine light went off.
It is hard for me to explain how spark plugs related to the Secondary Air Injection
system, however I drive my car for more than 3 months since that time and Check
Engine light has not come back on.
So, I think this problem is resolved.
Generally saying, the method of diagnostics described above is applicable to many
cars. You just need to find the right units of your car’s Secondary Air Injection system.
But it's not hard to do: find an air pump and keep track of air hoses coming from it.

Original author unkown-

Edited for readability by C230 Sport Coup on mbworld.org