Frankie 03 04 2024
Frankie 03 04 2024
ISSUE 118
MAR/APR 2024
AUS: $12.95 INC GST
NZ: $13.95 INC GST
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issue 118 talented contributors
photographic
sabine bannard, bri hammond, melanie hinds, em jensen, leon schoots
editorial
samantha allemann, freya bennett, deirdre fidge, charlie lewis, nicole madigan,
angie mashford scott, giselle au-nhien nguyen, mel rinarelli, kate stanton, tiara swain,
phoebe thorburn, donnay torr, rebecca varcoe, jack vening
illustration
louise brough, lilin chung, maren endler, cathy hogan, sophie lim,
alice tran, cass urquhart
poster artist
sarah elliott
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managing director
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arek widawski
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publishing director
daniel findlay aust & n.z. distributor
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frankie.com.au
first thought
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contents
what’s inside
mysterious all of
symbols: the lights:
PAGE 60 PAGE 108
Secret messages you Treat your peepers
might be missing. to some swish lamps.
007
your say
dear frankie
Kia ora frankie, I feel SEEN (or rather heard). Like Emily Naismith
(issue 116) I detest talking on the phone. She is a girl after my
phone heart, truly. What is it about that ringing that strikes fear
TELL US YOUR SECRETS into the heart of this otherwise perfectly grown-up and capable
(OR JUST SAY HI). 28-year-old? Inspired by Emily’s recent victories in dialling, I too
have been trying to overcome this visceral fear by picking up the
[email protected] phone. I answered a call from an UNKNOWN number the other day
and at the other end was a lovely lady advancing me in the next
stage of a job application (the job, ironically, will involve a LOT of
phone conversations). A further triumph came from me returning
a message and actually CALLING back instead of emailing back.
In that case I was able to get another win by finishing a project
early. Maybe like Emily I’m slowly learning that the call should
no be feared, but instead embraced. I still reserve the right to
send a text sometimes, though. Ngā mihi, Jessie
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
008
I’d be here all day. I’m now going to immerse myself in some more as me about film but after reading Kitty Lloyd’s article on clubs,
frankieisms to reminisce about stuff that I understand but forgot it has made me wonder if I should stop waiting for that moment
I even knew. Gwyneth and seize the day. Thanks for all the great articles and arty
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inspiration, Maddie
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dear frankie, I’m a teenager who’s just finished school for the
year and was relieved to spend the next six weeks settling into THE LETTER OF THIS ISSUE WINS A BONNIE AND NEIL
my creative ambitions. For the first two days I was really getting ‘TROPICS MULTI’ TABLECLOTH (MEDIUM), RRP $265, FROM
somewhere with them, (yay!) until today, when I found myself BONNIEANDNEIL.COM.AU
staring at my list of goals and sighing a deep sigh, then sitting
down hopelessly on my concrete floor listening to Amy Winehouse Ever dearest frankie, You made it! “Made what?” I bet you’re
on vinyl and frowning at my absolute op shop of a room. I picked wondering. Well, I don’t know if you heard about that pesky little
up an old frankie issue in the hopes of getting a remote speck cyclone named Jasper, or the subsequent flooding that followed,
of inspiration and guess what?! The first thing I read was exactly but my home in Cairns was smashed by both. However, we made
what I needed to hear. It was the editor’s letter of issue 106 and it through! You kept me occupied through my initial loss of power
it talked about how sometimes, doing nothing is vital to being for two days. I thoroughly enjoyed completing your puzzle book
creative. Boom! All of a sudden, I feel content with myself again. in issue 117 by candlelight, and my two rotties listened with
I now have a cushion between me and the floor and I’m settling rapt attention to the “tough and tiny” article. Over the days that
in to read you guys for the afternoon. Thanks again! Georgie followed, I returned to you when I needed grounding
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . or an out from what was happening around
me. I was one of the lucky few,
Dear frankie, Today was a very exciting day for me. When I arrived but people I love lost a lot.
home the mailbox was full with not one but two of my long-time And the clean-up has been
favourite magazines, National Geographic and frankie! As I was a hectic job. In spite of that,
reading through issue 117, I couldn’t help but smile at Phoebe you have been a great comfort
Thorburn’s article about cinemas in summer. As an avid film lover to me and many others
at 15 years of age in Tasmania, I find cinemas to be a haven where (I’ve started lending copies
I can dive into stories bigger than my imagination and revel in to friends), which is something
the marvels of film – even if I’m the only one there. My friends I wanted you to know. Because
don’t have the same taste in films as I do and often laugh at me as my heart aches for my
for complimenting that one shot from a Martin Scorsese movie community, you, darling frankie,
that had great lighting and movement (not to mention colour are a balm that soothes the
contrast). At the moment, I am yet to find someone as enthusiastic ache. Your friend, Madi xo
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frank bits
DAYLIGHT MOON
Madeleine Richards is a kiwi fashion designer who wanted to BEACH PLEASE
make versatile garms that last for years down the line, which
led to the creation of her own label, Daylight Moon, back in It’s getting cooler, but we’re not ready to
2020. With a strong focus on comfort, Madeleine’s wares are say goodbye to beach days just quite yet.
breezy and perfect for frolicking (which is a big selling point for Soleil Soleil has a solution: this woven
us), so you can rest assured that no wedgies will occur while blanket ($285) not only makes for a ripper
rocking one of her pretty pieces. daylightmoonstudio.com beach towel, but you can also use it to
rug up and keep warm if it gets too chilly.
soleilsoliel.com.au
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frank bits
COPY CAT
SMELL YA LATER
If Beauty and the Beast has
taught us anything (aside There are a lot of things in
from ways to spot Stockholm life that are out of our control:
syndrome), it’s that no home the weather, the past, cats…
is complete without a grand Luckily, car scents don’t
library. Most Aussie flats do always have to be set in stone,
not have the space, but our thanks to Stacey’s Ceramics’
books can still get the luxe clay car fresheners. Gone are
treatment with Flywheel’s the days of ‘royal pine’ – now
bookplates ($22 for a you can add your favourite
CLOTH OF KINGS pack of 10). Stop by essential oil (or Britney
frankie.com.au/win, Spears perfume) onto its
There’s just something about owning a tablecloth because we’ve got three unglazed side, and voila! Now
that makes you feel like an Adult with a capital packs up for grabs. your car smells just right. $25,
A. After all, who cares if you’re having cereal for flywheel.net.au staceysceramics.bigcartel.com
dinner when your dining table looks this fancy
and scratch-free? We’re especially fond of this
dreamy piece by Melbourne homewares brand
Mosey Me, which we reckon will make every meal
feel like a five-star feast. $220, moseyme.com
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frank bits
PILLOW TALK
They might not be framed or hung on a gallery
wall, but we reckon that these arty fish cushions
still deserve the masterpiece treatment. They’re
designed by Aussie artist Janey Forbes and, if
we’re being honest, kind of make us peckish.
$130, greenhouseinteriors.com.au
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frank bits
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frank bits
PRINTED WEIRD
Nobody’s perfect. In fact, most of
us are far, far from it. So why not
embrace the fabulous shitshow
that is your life with this retro
collage print by Printed Weird?
Or perhaps gift one to a friend
who needs a little intervention.
Prices start at around
$10. printedweird.com
FOAL
This one goes out to all you fairytale lovers, who
dream of living with your family in a cosy cottage,
surrounded by grassy fields and ducks and hens
and rabbits. You may not have achieved that dream
(yet) but the beauty of fashion is it can provide
‘the vibe’ of whatever your heart desires. Dress up
your littlie in this gorgeous frock by kiwi label Foal.
It features a scarf collar and hand-drawn animals,
and will make you feel like you’re at least partially
living in a fairytale. $149, foal.co.nz
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frank bits
FOR SHIRR
Stretchy fabrics shouldn’t
just be reserved for trackie-
dacks and maternity wear.
Why do we always have to THE BEE’S KNEES
choose between wearing a
cute outfit and being able to Fact: a tasty drop becomes even tastier
sit down while eating? Enough when bottled in swish packaging. Hence, we are
is enough, and New Zealand practically throwing our wallets at Tassie distillery
label RUBY tends to agree. Taylor & Smith Distilling Co. They’ve teamed up
The brand has come up with with foodie Analiese Gregory (and her honey bees,
this delightful shirred cotton more specifically) to create this musky, floral-y
maxi dress ($387, rubynz.com), honey gin. Contained within a beeswax-lined
which is as eye-pleasing as bottle, it may just be the fanciest tipple we
it is stretchy. Hoorah! ever did see. $85, taylorandsmith.com.au
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frank bits
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frank bits
CONGRATS SAGE
QUINTESSENTIAL
They really do give out
awards for everything Stop what you’re doing, and
these days. Got out of go hide. In fact, just tear this
bed? Here’s a gold star. whole page out and burn it.
Cured a rare disease Because if your partner/
nobody can pronounce? best friend/housemate
Have a plaque! Did your sees you eyeing off this
GETTING TO KNOW… MALAIKA MFALME fucking best? Here’s a sandalwood comb by SAGE
trophy we reckon you’d Quintessential, they’ll buy
How would you describe your sound? I guess I’d describe it as like. (It’s by Sydney it for you immediately
folk-soul. What’s the story behind your debut album, Yasmin? ceramicist Kookish, and you’ll never receive a
In October 2019 my partner Yasmin passed away, and then and we’d actually really head massage from them
we went straight into lockdown. I spent a lot of time creating like one too, please.) again. Oh, the horror! $53,
and grieving during that time, so the album was created out $25, kookish.etsy.com sagequintessential.com.au
of a need for healing. How long did this album take to make?
All up, around three years. I wrote all of the songs within six
months, but I spent more time perfecting everything. What’s
your favourite track off this record? Probably the second-
to-last one on the album, “Younger”. It’s all about talking to
my younger self, and it really helped me move through the
grieving process. Who is your biggest artistic inspiration?
Tracy Chapman. I was raised on her music as a child, and now
I appreciate her lyrics and activism on a deeper level as an
adult. I started playing guitar because of her, and I have locs
because of her. How has living in different places affected
your music? Living in so many different places means that
I have a good sense of the world around me. I was able to
study so many different forms of music, especially East and
South African choral music, which has a large impact on my
music today. Why is social commentary important to include
in your music? I always try to reflect on the times of today
in my songs, especially if they are issues or topics that I am
passionate about. What’s next for you? First of all, I need
to rest! But I’d also love to collaborate with more artists and
play at festivals – if they’ll have me, of course.
MODERN MINI
Who knew you could get interiors inspo from
a skirt? This nifty little mini by Byron Bay
brand Lottie Hall features a print originally
GREAT PLATES painted by Lottie on canvas. Upon its silk-
linen exterior, you’ll spot swish pendant
Trust Castle and Things to come up with plates that are almost too lights, chairs, vases and other objects that
pretty to use. We dare not manoeuvre anything sharper than a butter would look rather neat in anyone’s abode.
knife upon these beauties ($120 for four), for fear of scratching their We’re hardly surprised, though – Lottie
delightful mismatched faces. Rachel Castle, the rad lady behind the brand, is all about creating wearable art for her
recommends using these plates “for cake, for Cheezels, for fairy bread. And customers, and each garment is crafted
trinkets and jewels and keys.” Sounds good to us. castleandthings.com.au in small quantities. $179, lottiehall.com
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creative people
artful dressing
MELANIE DALE WEARS MAXIMALIST OUTFITS
WHETHER IT’S RAIN, HAIL OR SHINE.
Words Eleanor Burnard Photography Em Jensen
If there’s anything that goths, ravers, hipsters, glam-rockers clients loved it! They all kept asking what I was going to wear
and other fashionable folk can all agree on, it’s that fashion is the the next day, and they all really encouraged me to dress up more.”
best method of telling the world exactly who you are. The same
can be said for Melanie Dale (aka @letsgetlayered), whose viral It was this encouragement – along with a substantial amount of
TikTok videos – which showcase her extravagant outfits before support from her husband – that led Melanie to post her fanciful
she embarks on her daily work commute – have helped cement work outfits on social media. The TikTok videos are filmed by
her as a bona fide fashion icon. Melanie’s husband while he drops her off at the train station,
and he often captures the surprised, happy reactions of fellow
A love for fashion first emerged within Melanie during her shy commuters. The videos helped Melanie grow an online fanbase
and introverted high-school days; she discovered that colourful almost instantly. “I didn’t even know what TikTok really was, but
outfits could speak up for her when she wasn’t feeling like talking I ended up gaining 5000 followers in three days,” Melanie says.
herself. “I was never a popular kid, but my outfits were always good “I couldn’t keep up with all the lovely messages.” And it’s not
conversation-starters,” Melanie says. “And when I see kids dressed just folks online who appreciate her fashion choices: “Whenever
up in goth clothes or whatever today, my heart sings because I’m waiting for the train, young girls and tradies always stop
that was me – wearing whatever I wanted and not caring what to compliment me.”
other people thought.”
Melanie’s tastes range from neon garments and ’80s-inspired power
Growing up in rural Victoria, Melanie found that only one kind of suits to leopard-print opera gloves; she has a healthy supply of tulle
place could satiate her unique fashion cravings: “I’ve been snatching skirts and a strong aversion to denim. And she puts so much time
up secondhand goodies at op shops since I was independent enough and care into her outfits that she has a hard time naming a favourite
to shop alone,” she says. “For me, fashion has never been about combination. “It’s like choosing between my children – I love them
buying the most expensive things; it’s about being able to all,” she jokes. “It’s second nature putting an outfit together every
physically represent my creative side.” morning. Since I’ve been collecting clothes all my life, I know
what looks good.”
To Melanie, fashion has always been much more than just the
items she wears – it’s her identity. “My dress sense has always While Melanie credits a plethora of people as her fashion inspirations,
been a point of contention in my life, and some people don’t get she specifically gives thanks to a fellow eclectic Melburnian for being
why I dress this way,” Melanie explains. “But whenever I feel lost, the driving force behind her style: Alannah Hill. “Even now, I still feel
I inject my creativity into workshopping a new outfit and I begin like I’m replicating her! She’s easily my favourite designer.” However,
to feel like myself again.” Working as a medical secretary during with a TikTok audience of over 130k, Melanie’s bound to become a
the pandemic, Melanie turned towards fashion to help make the beloved muse to her very own set of admirers. “I hope I get to inspire
mundane daily grind a little brighter. “There was literally nothing people to step outside of the box and experiment with different
else to do, so I just decided to get all dressed up for work,” she colours, fabrics and silhouettes. There’s so much you can do with
explains. “It went down so well – all my co-workers and the fashion and, above all, it’s fun!”
018
022
road test
phrases of old
JACK VENING REVIEWS OLD-TIMEY SAYINGS SPOKEN BY
SAGE PHILOSOPHERS AND LEATHERY AUSSIE UNCLES ALIKE.
FLAT OUT LIKE A LIZARD DRINKING Even the more obtuse the most stalwart brick shithouse and feature many comforts,
sayings on this list give some hint of their meaning, but this one like places to sleep or check your emails.
really makes you fight for it. It seems to speak of an Australia of
old, when people would gather in the square to watch the town THE EARLY BIRD GETS THE WORM A classic. Birds, worms,
lizard drink and speak to each other in riddles. Unfortunately, the whole thing is unbeatable. This is probably the first proverb
it leaves most of us scratching our heads. Is the lizard in question any of us ever heard and is likely the one we still hear most
drinking water as part of its normal behaviour, or taking part frequently. In that way it’s like the Beatles of idioms: sure it’s
in some anthropomorphic spectacle (like a horse walking into a good, sure it’s important, but everyone’s heard it to death
bar)? What is the lizard drinking? Do lizards even drink? What are and if it’s still your favourite by the time you’re an adult
lizards really? Do they make good pets when they’re not drinking? then you’re probably a boring person.
And before anyone yells at me that the phrase obviously suggests
the lizard is physically flat during the act of drinking, I’ve got BETTER THAN A POKE IN THE EYE WITH A BLUNT STICK Now
some news for you: lizards are that flat all the time; they don’t just this is a phrase that changes from speaker to speaker. Depending
become mysteriously more flat when they need a drink. Sorry that on whom you ask, the exact qualities of the stick being introduced
you’ve only ever seen a lizard when it’s drinking and just assumed to the eye can be a sharp stick, blunt stick, burnt stick, or just “stick”
they walked around like people the rest of the time. Grow up. (nothing wrong with just stick). The choice suggests what you fear
more from an eye poke: the sharp stick’s penetrative potential, or
MANY HANDS MAKE LIGHT WORK OK, now we’re talking! Simple, the messy force of the blunt stick? The burnt stick’s fire damage,
straight-forward, evokes a sense of co-operation – or, even better, or the regular stick’s mysterious stick properties? But no matter
an image of some kind of monstrous multi-handed man completing what, there’s one thing they can all agree on. Getting a stick in the
several chores at once with great efficiency. Plus, this one’s got eye? Not good. And the amount of events that it is worse than?
some real history, apparently entering fairly frequent usage since it Substantial, though probably not endless. I can think of many
first appeared in a 14th-century poem about a heroic knight named things worse than a poke in the eye with a stick. But good luck
“Bevis of Hampton”. Sure, that may not come across every time telling that to the anti-stick-in-eye lobby, or whoever is keeping
someone pulls the proverb out, but it’s the perfect opportunity to this debate going.
impress your friends with your knowledge of medieval chivalric
romance narratives, or, failing that, a cautionary retelling of PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN GLASS HOUSES SHOULDN’T THROW
The Many-Handed Man Who Did Things Quickly. STONES I’m on the fence with this one. While I don’t think anybody
should be throwing stones around, I think that ordering people
BUILT LIKE A BRICK SHITHOUSE Another holdover from a not to do so will probably trigger the same kind of oppositional
world in which we no longer live, despite how commonly you defiance that had them act out and build a glass house in the first
might hear it. Ostensibly it suggests a sense of strength: a mighty place. Maybe we can soften the language, such as “If you need to
brick shithouse, the only thing left standing after a great storm throw stones, at least leave your glass house to do so.” Better yet,
passed through. The brick shithouses of history must have been find someone else with a glass house and do your stone chucking
imposing, looming like citadels, like the great ziggurats of ancient there. They’ll be too busy cleaning up all the broken glass to come
Mesopotamia. Unfortunately, now they’re just where your most throw stones at your house for a few days, by which time you’ve
dismal school camp memories were formed, and due to improved hopefully done something to increase the defences of your glass
building practices and construction standards, the phrase falls house. Like, I don’t know, replacing it with a wooden one, or at
a little flat. Most normal houses are now more secure than even least installing a brick shithouse as a panic room.
023
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rant
main character syndrome It is, however, about more than what you wear. It’s mainly
about how you feel. My main character syndrome peaks when
I’m listening to music. It doesn’t matter what genre because any
IT’S EMILY NAISMITH’S WORLD; WE’RE JUST song could be my backing track – it just depends on the day. If I’m
LIVING IN IT. listening while driving, it feels like the cars are magically synching
up to make space for me; if I’m listening while running, I feel like
the cheering crowd is just around the corner as I hit the home
stretch; if I’m listening while brushing my teeth, it feels like I’m part
Airports make me a little delusional. When I’m stomping down of a wake-up montage in a feel-good movie. Delusional, I tell you!
to gate 56 with my carry-on wheeling behind me, the terminal
becomes my catwalk. I make brisk eye contact with people as I fly Why does my brain do this? Perhaps it’s due to growing up with
past, leaving them in my wake to think, “Who is that mysterious an uncommon chronic illness, so I kind of felt a bit different from
person? Which exotic location is she off to?” I mean, in reality everyone else, anyway. People always told me it made me “special”
it’s 6am in the Jetstar domestic terminal – your girl isn’t going or “unique” (most likely to make me feel more comfortable or less
anywhere special. Yet, when I’m waiting at the gate to board, depressed). No one is telling me that these days (except my mum,
I think the eyes of other passengers are glued to me. See? as is her duty) but I still – somewhat embarrassingly – feel like my
I’m deluded. I blame main character syndrome. name would appear first in the credits of the movie that is existence.
It’s embarrassing to admit, but I think I’ve always seen myself as To be honest, I could (and probably do) just have an inflated sense
the main character. Which implies everyone else is the supporting of self, but it feels like there’s more to it. Is it some kind of coping
cast. This is partly due to how I was brought up. A lot of my clothes mechanism? Something to distract me from the mundanity of life?
and belongings as a child screamed LOOK AT ME. My rainbow sequin Perhaps these main character thoughts are a way of getting through
and velvet vest, my handmade mauve fluffy recorder case, and the the boring bits without spiralling. Let me explain.
school formal dresses my mum made (particularly one with red tulle
underwear sewn in to match the red tulle skirt… what the fuck). It feels like my two options for doing the dishes when I’m home
alone are to either force myself to do the dishes and be sad or
My sister got the main character memo too. One year, every child listen to an absolutely chaotic mid-2000s pop song and pretend
in her primary-school class was instructed to wear a Santa hat for I’m the main character scrubbing the pots while some kind of
a carols performance. Seeing as there’s no real chance to stand out, poignant narration about her life thus far in the film plays over
Mum sewed an entire white feather boa around the bottom of Annie’s the top. I choose the lies! I’m happier in this falsehood. Now let
hat. It was like she’d time-travelled to Harry Styles’ Christmas this main character finally hit ‘send’ on her manuscript (aka this
wedding because the red part of the hat was no longer visible. short article) and go and enter a party scene (eating olives from
Main character energy runs in our family. the fridge). Cut!
025
real life
angry uterus
WHY ENDOMETRIOSIS IS A FEMINIST ISSUE.
Words Angie Mashford-Scott
I would bet my favourite heat pack and all the gin in my pantry suffering, she would be told that there was nothing physically wrong
that if you asked anyone with endometriosis if they’ve had their and her mind was likely overstimulated (for which, of course, she
symptoms dismissed by a medical professional, have gone a long had limited capacity). Or, if she was particularly unlucky, she would
period of time with no diagnosis or a misdiagnosis, and have been be institutionalised and subjected to a range of obscene treatments.
made to feel like they’re exaggerating or have a low pain threshold,
they would say, “Yes.” Advances in science and surgical techniques during the 20th
century helped develop our understanding of many diseases,
It’s no wonder the medical community has such a poor understanding including endometriosis. However, hysteria’s legacy lived on.
of women’s bodies and the illnesses that predominantly affect Societal attitudes and misogyny ensured that the burden of blame
us. Throughout history, doctors have minimised women’s pain remained on women themselves, myths were still widespread,
and dismissed symptoms as having a psychological origin. In other and women’s own reports were not viewed as reliable. Pelvic
words, “it’s all in their heads.” This has deep roots in what the and menstrual pain continued to be associated with sexually
Ancient Greeks called “hysteria”. transmitted pelvic inflammatory disease, promiscuity and mental
illness, or was normalised as “women’s troubles”.
Hysteria was believed to be a medical condition specific to women and
caused by problems of the uterus. Symptoms included anxiety, being In the late 20th century, endometriosis got the fun nickname
“excessively emotional”, and various physical symptoms including “the career woman’s disease”. It was widely believed to be
pain. Plato famously stated that when women deny their “biological a disease that mostly affected women in their 30s who had
destiny” to reproduce, their uterus becomes “suffocated”, sad and careers and delayed having children – the cruel irony being that
angry, and this causes physical and mental illness. (Fun fact: the word endometriosis is the leading cause of fertility challenges in women.
hysteria derives from the Greek word “hystera”, meaning uterus.) Which meant that some women, desperate to have children but
unable to become pregnant, were stigmatised and judged for
Oh but it gets better. During the Middle Ages, hysteria was attributed not prioritising motherhood.
to a woman and her uterus being possessed by evil spirits and the
devil. Then in Renaissance times, it was believed that hysteria was So let’s recap. Over the past 2000 years, women’s mental and
actually sexual in nature and potentially due to a problem with the physical health problems have been attributed to having an angry,
woman’s genitals or promiscuity. empty uterus, being possessed by evil spirits, sexual deviance,
the overstimulation of our inferior minds, and selfishly delaying
By the 19th century, we had moved from seeing hysteria as just motherhood. I mean, what a complete clusterfuck of fuckery.
a physical problem to a psychological problem (thanks, Freud!).
A woman who kept returning to the doctor, voiced ongoing concerns No wonder women today still battle against a stigma and stereotype
or “failed” to respond to treatment was seen as difficult and unstable. that we're sensitive hypochondriacs and our accounts of our own
If a doctor couldn’t find a physical cause for a woman’s symptoms and pain and symptoms are unreliable. This, paired with society’s
026
Photo Lukasz Wierzbowski
undervaluing and underinvesting in women’s medical research, medication?” I hadn’t because I couldn’t even keep water down.
means that there is still no known cause or cure for endometriosis. But I still thought to myself, “Maybe the problem is that I haven’t
Current treatments are largely ineffective, and on average, a woman taken all my medications.” So the delay stretched on until I couldn’t
will see eight doctors over seven to 10 years before she even take it anymore. When the paramedics arrived, I could see by the
receives a diagnosis. look in their eyes and swiftness of their actions that they saw what
I felt. This was now a medical emergency.
This experience of having your symptoms brushed off or normalised
(“some women just have these troubles”) is so common that many I didn’t want to be dramatic. I didn’t want to waste anyone’s time.
endo patients (me included) are known to tearfully express relief Didn’t want to present at the emergency department just to be told
and gratitude when they wake up from surgery and hear that the that what I was experiencing was “normal” surgery recovery. Even
surgeon did indeed find endometriosis. In a 2015 Guardian article, though I knew deep down it wasn’t, I didn’t have the strength of
Gabrielle Jackson wrote about feeling vindicated when her surgeon conviction. Hysteria’s legacy had planted the seeds of self-doubt
showed her pictures and said, “Look how bad it was.” She wrote, into my DNA. And my experiences with the medical system had
“Now I had a disease with a name and I didn’t have to feel like helped them flourish.
I was making it up any more.”
Endometriosis is more than a physical illness. It’s a social, political
The systematic minimising and gaslighting of women’s pain and economic one. Sexism and gender bias have determined what we
and experiences leads us to lose trust in our own perception know about women’s health and biology, what research is funded,
and judgement, and to actually start gaslighting ourselves. You and the quality of medical care and treatment that we receive.
wonder, “Maybe I am just not able to cope as well as others. Maybe
I am being dramatic. Maybe it isn’t that bad.” And this can have Gender-diverse individuals with endometriosis can have even
devastating consequences. greater challenges to their care, often not meeting the set criteria
to receive care and treatment within current medical and social
Following my most recent laparoscopic surgery, I was rushed systems. Additionally, they are often excluded from women's health
back into hospital and admitted to the intensive care unit with life- narratives around the disease, effectively erasing their experiences
threatening sepsis. Like many endo patients, I had questioned the from the discussion.
severity of my deteriorating condition and delayed going back into
hospital, which almost cost me my life. It is now believed that many historical descriptions of hysteria
were most likely undiagnosed cases of endometriosis. Society
I was in severe pain. I was nauseous and vomiting. I couldn’t eat needs to woman the fuck up and turn this ship around. It’s
or drink. I was groaning and crying. When I called the hospital to gone on long enough.
report how bad my pain and condition was, the nurse said, “Well
you have just had surgery, dear. Have you taken all of your pain learn more from angie at endokind.com.au
027
music talks
no longer kids
MGMT HAVE LIGHTENED UP.
Words Giselle Au-Nhien Nguyen
028
MGMT have entered the golden age of not giving a damn about On this record, MGMT also invites a guest artist into the fold for
what anyone else thinks. The American duo, made up of uni friends the first time ever, with French pop singer Christine and the Queens
Andrew VanWyngarden and Ben Goldwasser, drop their fifth album, lending vocals to the duet “Dancing in Babylon”. “That song went
Loss of Life, this month, and they’re doing it their own way. “I don't through all sorts of different phases – it really evolved from one
think we're burdened as much by self-consciousness or worrying very different thing to where it is on the album,” Andrew says. “The
about pleasing other people,” Andrew says over Zoom. song sort of took a turn to a more ’80s romantic kind of thing, and
Chris's voice was instantly something that I thought would work.
Loss of Life is MGMT’s first album for an independent label,
and that freedom radiates from these songs. The band put it “Most of the collaboration we've done is where we’re the ones
down to growing older – both members are now in their forties featured as singing or remixing or doing something on someone
– and generally caring less about the expectations of others. else’s song – it felt good to bring people onto our own music and
“We're finally able to lighten up about this in a way that we hadn't I’m sure we’ll do more of that.”
been able to before,” says Ben. “When we were younger, there
was a sense of things being more carefree or indulgent and Even though their music and the way they approach making it are
spontaneous, but at the same time, we were feeling a lot of evolving, Andrew and Ben are well aware that for many listeners,
anxiety and pressure, and feeling like we had to get everything MGMT is the defining sound of a certain time and place – songs
right. We were really hard on ourselves, and I think we're at like “Kids”, “Electric Feel” and “Time to Pretend” soundtracked
a point now where we can get more to the point, but we also the late noughties.
are not taking ourselves nearly as seriously.”
There’s a real sense of nostalgia for that time, and the band is
Its title might suggest otherwise, but Loss of Life is deliberately perfectly happy to lean into it. They played their first live show in
all about optimism, in contrast to the band’s last album, 2018’s four years in 2023 at the Californian indie nostalgia festival Just Like
Little Dark Age, which explored anxiety, paranoia and despair. Heaven, performing their 2007 debut album, Oracular Spectacular,
“We've made a point of trying not to focus the subject matter on in full. The show included papier-mâché bobblehead figures of their
how bleak everything is in reality,” Ben says. “Imagining a better younger selves and they sampled recordings of their old demos and
world or a situation where we can feel joy and connection to songs, linking past to present. “Our earliest and most popular songs
each other is a good first step.” felt like we were tapping into a nostalgic feeling at the time but it was
more nostalgic for childhood, and now there's a nostalgia for that,
Having time to decompress during lockdown helped the pair so it's like a layer cake of nostalgia,” Andrew says. “I think nostalgia
come into this new phase of their decades-long collaboration. has always been a big component of our music and our story.”
With the constant cycle of touring on hold, they had the luxury of
creating purely for the fun and love of it. “It’s really good for us,” It’s serendipitous timing with the “indie sleaze” trend making
says Andrew. “There are things that I think we've been talking the rounds. The pair admits it’s a little surreal to see themselves
about doing for 10 or 15 years, and now we finally have a moment tagged in posts romanticising the era when at the time, they were
where we can start actually realising some of these desires.” largely mucking around. “Some of the outfits I was wearing back
then, I was just wearing as a complete joke because I thought it
It also means that there’s less rigidity about what their music was so ridiculous – it wasn't something that I thought was cool
has to sound like. “In the past, we would have made something and at the time,” Ben says. “To have that be a snapshot in time is
then been like, ‘Is this MGMT? Can this be MGMT?’ or ‘This doesn't very absurd to me. But I enjoy it – I think it's really funny.”
sound like MGMT and we don't really do that’,” Andrew says.
“Now it is MGMT because it's us, and that makes things easier.” But the biggest full-circle moment came when the band was
rehearsing for their live comeback in Los Angeles, and walked
The proof is all in this album’s eclectic influences, from Japanese into a bar where people in their early 20s were “dancing ironically” to
city pop to Oasis, and instruments including horns and fretless music from 2007 – including MGMT. “I had this shock when I realised
bass. “We've done so many different things that at this point it feels that we were doing that when we were that age to Hall and Oates,
like we don't have to prove to somebody that we can also do other and it was the same time difference,” Andrew laughs. “So we're like
styles of music,” Ben says. the Hall and Oates to some people now – that is really wild.”
029
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031
learn something new
032
1930s – THE LONG-AND-SLIM
Hello, 1930s, and hello, economic crisis. Women had to slip out of their youthful party dresses and into
the workforce. “A lot of women had to work. And that meant that during the day, they were wearing suiting,”
Charlotte says. “The ’30s was such an interesting time for women style-wise, because they were empowered by
this autonomy they had from being part of the household income-earners, but that meant that by day they were
wearing lovely structured, masculine-but-feminine suits. Then in the evening – and I wouldn’t say that the
average woman was necessarily wearing this – they wore beautiful gowns which were a real reaction to that
masculine style by day.” These long, slinky evening dresses were more sophisticated than the comfy, boyish
flapper dresses of the ’20s, and allowed women to feel strong and sexy after a long day at work. “It’s a really
interesting time I think, and a beautiful time – 1930s dresses are gorgeous, if you’ve seen them in real life,
up close. They’re so beautiful,” Charlotte says. Despite birthing some stunning garments, the 1930s isn’t often
recognised as a fashionable decade. Charlotte recommends checking out the 1939 film The Women, starring
Joan Crawford, for its “divine” costumes. “For ’30s fashion, it’s like the ultimate resource because it really
showcases that suiting and those beautiful gowns.”
033
1940s – THE PRACTICALI-TEA
Once again, women’s fashion of the ’40s reflected the economic and social shifts that were
happening around them. The biggest influence of this era? World War II. “It was the time of make do
and mend,” Charlotte explains. “Women had to contribute to the war effort, so they needed something
more practical. But also, people were back to living on rations; there was a lot of scarcity.” And so, the tea
dress was favoured by women all over. They would handmake these dresses using affordable, accessible
fabrics, along with textiles from around the house, like curtains and tablecloths. “The tea dress was a
really practical style that worked with a lot of floral fabrics – a lot of home textiles were florals – and it
was practical enough to wear as a part of this war effort,” Charlotte says. “I mean, if they were working in
a factory, they would have been wearing a boiler suit, but just generally, the tea dress was comfortable and
it was flattering. I think it also helped people maintain a sense of femininity.” It may be a wartime design,
but Charlotte argues that tea dresses still have a place in fashion today. “I really think that tea dresses are
one of the most universally flattering cuts, and they’re really practical,” she says. “In my book, I even say
this is a really great dress for mums on the go. It’s a great school-run dress for modern times.”
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learn something new
035
learn something new
036
1970s – THE DIANE VON FURSTENBURG
It’s hard to pin down just one iconic look in this wild decade. “Fashion was all over the place in the ’70s,”
Charlotte admits. “I think there were two distinct countercultures happening.” On one side, the hippie movement that
had blossomed in the late ’60s moved into the ’70s, bringing with it natural fabrics, fringing, Flower Power and sexual
revolution. On the other side, women were embracing their glamorous sides, largely thanks to designer Diane von
Furstenberg. Diane launched her iconic wrap dress in 1974, and since then, versions of it have been worn by women
the world over, including on screen in media like Friends, Sex and The City, Gilmore Girls, Taxi Driver and American
Hustle. “Towards the end of the ’70s, brands like Halston and DVF were bringing in these styles which still had a
sensuality and freedom and comfort to them,” Charlotte says. “I think that the sexual freedom that was suddenly found
in that time – remembering that the pill had become available in the ’60s – was showcased in the clothes.” Charlotte
argues that, along with the tea dress, the wrap dress is universally flattering. “There’s a reason wrap dresses keep
coming back in style,” she says. “I think they really work in all sets of circumstances. I’ve seen people wear them
when they’re pregnant. People have one wrap dress and their weight might have fluctuated over the years, but
they’ll have that same dress and it still works. I think it speaks to sexuality and sensuality and glamour.”
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1980s – THE STRONG AND STRUCTURED
Mike Nichols’ 1988 film Working Girl was a hit for a reason – it resonated with women of the ’80s
who were finally able to dream of, and achieve, a successful career. “For the first time women were
suddenly bosses,” Charlotte says. “So it wasn’t just about having a job. It was about owning it and being
at the helm of the workplace.” Those working women wore outfits to match their newfound sense of
economic freedom. “Power suits were the look of the day and I think it also spoke to economic times –
there was a real focus on materialism and showcasing one’s wealth,” Charlotte says. “And that’s also
really the first time that we saw an obvious statement of logos being on display, and people kind of
identifying with how much money they’ve spent on their clothes.” By day, women favoured shoulder
pads, batwing sleeves, and exaggerated silhouettes. “But in the evening, like the ’30s again, people wore
very glamorous and over-the-top evening gowns,” Charlotte explains. “And there would be elements that
you might have seen in the day, like a shoulder pad or a billowing sleeve, or a huge ruffle, and a fabric
like taffeta. So it’s quite stiff and sculptural. It was all very va-va-voom and exaggerated. Those were
all the sort of things that people wanted to do.”
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learn something new
039
writers’ piece
living next
door to alice
four writers pen tales of memorable
neighbours – the good, the bad and the
downright strange.
writers’ piece
By the middle of the path – to make the rescue with a bottle of olive
041
By The best example of a Ramsay By
Rebecca Street neighbour-utopia I got
to experience was a charming Tiara
Varcoe – block of units I shared with six Swain –
other couples and a mysterious
When I first moved in with father and son duo who rejected If you’ve ever followed any New
my partner, he confessed the rest of us entirely – you York-focused Instagram accounts,
that sometimes, when he can’t win ’em all. When we like @whatisnewyork, then you’ve
approached our front door, were added to the complex’s probably witnessed some of the
if he heard a neighbour also group chat I was ready for strange things that people get up
leaving their apartment he passive-aggressive car park to in this city. Let me assure you –
would wait until he was sure arguments but what we got it’s not an exaggeration. Living in
they were gone before opening instead were messages about New York introduces you to many
the door. I love him, but I hate communal pot luck dinners, unique individuals every day. But
that. Can’t relate. Give me invitations to house parties, what happens when these eccentric
neighbour time, any time. and help with power outages. folk become your neighbours?
Every six weeks or so, whoever
Look, I’ve had my fair share could make it would bring a In New York, it’s almost expected
of crappy neighbours. Once plate to an agreed-upon unit that your landlord will be a
I lived above a man named and we’d chat and have dinner, nightmare, and your neighbour
Bruno who, between the hours checking in on each other. will either be a famous actor
of 8am and 6pm, only hit pause like Jake Gyllenhaal or a bunch of
on blasting his disco megamix When I got a puppy and was college kids looking to party hardy.
to take extremely loud and going stir-crazy keeping him As an Australian who spent six
personal phone calls of which in the house before he got all years living in Brooklyn during my
I could hear every word. Living his shots, one neighbour with early 20s, I’ve had my fair share of
in a dodgy apartment complex, a dog would periodically check amusing neighbour encounters.
I shared a carport with a in and ask if I needed to bring
strange man who definitely him over for a play with their The first time I visited an
stole all the CDs out of my car. dog to tire him out. During apartment I found on Craigslist,
My current neighbour passive- COVID lockdowns, we’d do I half-expected it to be the last
aggressively gathers the sticks porch drops of things we each time anyone would see me. To my
my dog brings home from our needed – a cup of sugar here, relief, the apartment turned out to
walks and places them next to a pasta making machine there. be amazing and was inhabited by a
our green bin as a subtle protest Once, during a crappy week group of musicians (not murderers).
against my pup’s collection. I thought I’d hidden well with It was like I was living the Brooklyn
my sunny hellos over the fence, dream straight out of an episode
So I get it – not everyone loves a bunch of flowers appeared of Girls. However, the reality of
their neighbours. But even on our front porch from the this dream included waking up to
those three oddballs got a good unit next door. It really felt the sound of a six-piece jazz band
morning and a Christmas card like what I imagined living in in my living room. As it turns out,
from me, because I bloody love a quaint little English village all our neighbours were musicians,
forcing community spirit on in the good old days was like! too, and our spacious loft served
those around me. You don’t have as the perfect rehearsal space.
to be best mates, sure, but there’s When we moved out on rather
an undeniable specific type of short notice, we didn’t really I lived in another loft in Brooklyn,
intimacy you share with people get to say goodbye. And honestly, right on the corner of South Third
who live closest to you. They see an emotional farewell would and Berry Street. For the longest
you leave for work and get home have been odd! Neighbours time, I would see people sneaking
tired most days. You can often occupy a special role like a into my neighbour’s apartment.
hear each other’s music taste, bad work friend or someone you My first thought was that illicit
days, good days, and the things were close to in high school but activities were taking place. To
that make them laugh through the don’t see much anymore. Trying my surprise, it turned out to be
walls. They might accidentally to force a connection outside of a hairdresser running a business
see you in the nud! Why wouldn’t our suburban bubble would have from their home on the down low.
you want to be on good terms been weird. But I think of them, Instead of complaining about the
with these people whose lives you and many of my old neighbours constant foot traffic in the hallway,
undoubtedly share a little bit of? fondly, and often. Even Bruno. I booked a haircut appointment.
042
writers’ piece
043
try this at home
BAR OFF BUGS Apple cider vinegar is a staple when it comes to apple cider vinegar hair soak. Dilute one to three tablespoons
salad vinaigrettes, pickles and marinades, and it turns out that it’s of vinegar with warm water and then pour it over your head after
not just us who are drawn to its fruity-acidic taste. The vinegar’s your regular shampoo session. Massage the mixture into your
aroma is a favourite of fruit flies and gnats, which means it’s a nifty scalp and let it sit for a couple of minutes, before rinsing it clean.
ingredient in DIY bug traps. (Look, we’re not here to bash bugs, but However, if you’ve never applied the vinegar to your skin before,
sometimes they’re not the politest house guests.) Simply combine then it’s imperative to do a patch test on the back of your hand
apple cider vinegar with liquid dish soap in a small jar or cup, before using the same concoction – you don’t want to give your sensitive
covering it up with plastic wrap. Then, use a toothpick to create a few scalp an even harder time.
holes in the wrap that are big enough for a fly to enter. Place the jar
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
near any insect hotspots (like in the kitchen or near the bins). The
vinegar’s scent will draw the bugs into the jar, where they’ll land in BOIL BEAUTIFUL EGGS Now, we simply must include at least
the dish soap and subsequently sink, unable to escape the sticky one tasty recipe in this list – it’s apple cider vinegar we’re talking
situation they’ve found themselves in. about, for goodness’ sake! As mentioned before, apple cider vinegar
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . has been a culinary must-have for various sauces and marinades
for yonks now, but it also acts as a taste-amplifying elixir for eggs,
SOOTHE YOUR PIPES Got a case of the ol’ sore throat blues? too! Acetic acid helps break down the eggshells while boiling,
Before you start chowing down on citrusy fruits (which actually making them heaps easier to peel, and it even helps prevent the
don’t help to get rid of that husky voice, by the way), mix one cup egg white from spilling out of the cracks while boiling. To cook up
of warm water with one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar and the tastiest boiled eggs ever, add one tablespoon of vinegar to the
a healthy squeeze of honey (which will help supress coughs). water you’re boiling the eggs in. Let the eggs simmer for around
Your soon-to-be happy throat will thank you. If you’re not keen 10 minutes before draining, peeling and digging in to savour their
on honey then don’t fret – simply substitute it with green tea, super-yummy and lightly acidic flavour.
ground ginger, coconut oil or cayenne pepper, which may
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
help in reducing inflammation.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . UNCLOG STUBBORN DRAINS Think back to those old science
projects of yore, where mixing vinegar and baking soda into a
DRIVE AWAY WEEDS As the saying goes, “the only difference barely-hanging-on clay volcano led to its subsequent ‘eruption’.
between a flower and a weed is judgement.” But if you’re a green Well, the same chemistry can be applied to household sinks
thumb with a penchant for manicuring perfect gardens free from so- that need a de-clogging eruption of their own. To fix any
called ‘weeds’, then you’re in luck, because apple cider vinegar comes slow-draining sinks, grab a half-cup of baking soda and a
in clutch yet again. It is chock-full of acetic acid which effectively kills half-cup of apple cider vinegar and pour them down the drain
any unwanted plants. Just combine it with liquid soap, salt or lemon respectively. The mixture will foam up on its own following the
juice and spray it onto the weeds you’re not a fan of. A word to the chemical reaction. Let the mix sit and cover the drain with a
wise: apple cider vinegar is very powerful and does not discriminate, bowl or cup for around 30 minutes. Once you’ve let the drain
so make sure to keep it away from any prize-winning veggies or sufficiently marinate, use a plunger, hanger or drain snake to
delicate botanicals. dislodge any clogging materials. Flush the remaining mixture
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . down the drain with six cups of hot water. Repeat until the sink
drains normally but call a professional if nothing seems to be
GIVE DANDRUFF THE BOOT If your scalp is starting to look like a working – sometimes you need something a little stronger
snow-filled winter wonderland, try treating your itchy noggin to an than a DIY volcano.
044
Photos Andy Webb
ka ra studio How’d you get into the furniture business? Drawing, designing
and crafting have always been hobbies of mine, and as a
homebody, I’ve always had a strong attachment to home and
KATRINA RAMM CRAFTS PLAYFUL an interest in interiors. It took me a while to figure out how to
FURNITURE FOR CREATIVE HOMES. apply these interests to a creative career before getting into
interior design in my mid-20s. I really enjoyed interior design
(and still do!), but I wanted to delve further into the hands-on
nature of furniture making to bring some of my ideas to life.
Other than minor refurbishments of vintage finds, I didn’t have
any experience with actually building and crafting furniture, so
I went back to uni to study Furniture Design at RMIT. After lots
of prototyping, testing and preparation to get my first range of
products ready, I officially launched Ka Ra Studio in mid-2022.
046
products that are compact and multi-purpose, while still having the majority of my furniture production items are manufactured
lots of charm and personality. I hope my work resonates with by a more experienced local woodworker here in Melbourne —
people who, like me, share a passion for sustainable, locally made the amazing Vivienne Wong! This ensures the build and finish
products, who want to surround themselves with feel-good pieces are of the highest quality, so that my pieces will last many,
that can be cherished for many years to come. many years to come. We have some amazing and talented
craftspeople here in Melbourne whom I love working with
Your work reminds us of Paddle Pop sticks. Was that intentional? and supporting. I think it’s crucial to utilise the skills of others
The inspiration for the Penny chair and table originally stemmed to bring together our ideas, as unfortunately we can’t always
from the shapes of Meccano pieces, so it wasn’t intentional; do it all ourselves!
however I do take a lot of inspiration from nostalgic memories and
childhood memorabilia (the ’90s for me), so Paddle Pops definitely Which of your pieces is your favourite? The Buddy sideboard
could have been channelled subconsciously! I’m a very visual is probably my favourite so far. With its playful twist on the
person, so I’ll often base initial sketch ideas on the fundamental traditional timber sideboard, it has a surprising amount of
shapes and forms that I see in the things around me, like pool joy and personality for a storage unit!
ladders, popcorn boxes, and I guess ice-creams too!
Where can we see more of your work? You can follow
Who do you work with to turn your concepts into physical pieces? me on Instagram @ka_rastudio or check out my
Although I make small items like my vases in my home studio, website at ka-ra.studio
047
something to say
For those born with a kinky strand or two, there is a shared Growing up, people often asked me why my hair was so frizzy.
understanding of the never-ending efforts one undertakes to FYI, ‘frizzy’ is a less than desirable descriptor for coiled strands.
maintain the mane. Controlling the frizz, adapting to weather It reinforces the notion that straight hair is more appealing and
changes, and embarking on the daily quest for a good curl day are that curly hair needs to be smoothed out or fixed. We curly-haired
just some of our many struggles. But even the most consistent hair people have been internalising these negative ideas our whole lives.
routines can’t determine whether your stubborn ringlets will behave. In this secret society, we are united by our shared stories that are not
just about our locks, but about self-acceptance and empowerment.
There’s also the dilemma of tying your hair up. Once you commit to
a top knot or pony, it’s all over until the next wash. And how can we Recently, I’ve been asked about where I got my perm. The curly
forget the childhood memories of spending many painful hours having shag is having a moment, and it’s satisfying to say that my curls
our knots brushed out or our strands slicked back with gel – the go-to are entirely natural. Finally, our mops are getting the admiration
solution for parents who are unsure of how to handle our unruly hair? they deserve, and our secret society is rejoicing. So, the next time
you pass a fellow curly-haired individual on the street, share a
One of the most iconic aspects of the curly code is how we freely knowing nod because you’re part of something bigger – a society
share our hair tips and tricks. It’s basically a rite of passage to that shares an unbreakable bond and is united by the curl.
048
style
Nancybird sarong aster, $79, nancybird.com
dune daze
garments and accessories in
earthy hues, fit for a day among
the sun-drenched dunes.
ART DIRECTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY BRI HAMMOND
STYLING ALICE BUDA
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Dr Martens voss II sandal vintage taupe pisa, $300, drmartens.com.au. búl cidade mule blue, $320, bul.com.au. Bared Footwear bittern sandals tan, $269, baredfootwear.com
style
050
051
Poppy Lissiman geo sparkle tote ocean/ black, $215, poppylissiman.com. Szade cave heavy cream/ brown sunglasses, $100, dollin burnt honey sunglasses, $80, east side wild cherry/ blush, $60, szade.com.au
re/lax remade hats, prices starting from $220, relaxremade.com.au. Status Anxiety golden days hat bark, $60, statusanxiety.com.au. Charlee Swim Lucy low back one piece fuchsia,
$209, charleeswim.com.au. Camp Cove Swim Saturday recycled triangle bikini top petal print, $95, Taylor recycled mid rise bikini bottom, $110, campcoveswim.com
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style
053
búl hora shirt brown, $240, bul.com.au
my project
tiny stories
MARLIES OAKLEY IS A MATCHBOX ARTIST.
Words Mel Rinarelli
In her first matchbox series, Thinking inside the Box, Marlies used
her inspiration from the introspection of lockdowns to create tiny
pieces that included people peering out of windows, cleaning, baking
and gardening. Each matchbox collage contains intricately hand-cut
images that spark a sense of allure and imagination.
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my project
“The trick for me is not to make things too obvious. What would
people not expect to see? What’s the person sitting at the window
thinking? My subject matter can range from familiar icons to
kitsch subjects.”
Fun and a love of storytelling are what truly inspire Marlies’ work.
She combines her passion for Surrealist art, Dadaism, personal
stories, hidden messages, social commentary and her unique
sense of humour to create her intricate pieces. Marlies’ art is also
inspired by the joy that is reflected in the analysis and perception
of her creations by fans. “Interestingly, when people look at the
matchboxes I’ve created, they often make up their own stories,
which sometimes have nothing to do with my original idea.
For me, that’s the beauty of creating.”
056
that’s reality
what’s more controversial than the feuds and scandals
of reality tv stars? whether reality tv is the best – or the
absolute worst. two writers give us their two cents.
I fell in love with The Real Housewives franchise in 2020 (some I wholeheartedly agree with the argument that reality shows shouldn’t
weird stuff was happening then). Imagine my elation when I realised be the only entertainment being produced. Do I wish more funding
there were dozens of seasons from various cities to plough through, was offered to narrative film and television, especially local creatives
one ridiculous rich woman at a time. There are times when our with new ideas and diverse stories we never see in the mainstream?
brains need stimulation and times it needs relaxation. Reality TV Yes. Do I dream of a utopia where prestige drama, Australian comedy
falls into the latter category and became the perfect escape. I’d and Love Island can co-exist? Also yes. Life’s about balance.
message friends who recommended it, bonding over the characters’
baffling behaviour. Critics say these shows provide nothing but The truth is, I used to be a real snob about this. I judged people for
it gave me much-needed distraction and social connection. enjoying it, assuming they were shallow braindead twits who, if you
threw a blanket over them, would think it was night-time and fall
The ‘reality’ genre is dismissed in a way genres like drama or comedy asleep like a budgie. How wrong I was – I’ve met people from all
aren’t. There are offensive, trashy dramas just as much as there are walks of life who indulge in a reality treatie from time to time. Some
engaging ones, and reality is no different. I choose to avoid series folks merrily hop from a Scandinavian film festival to Masterchef:
that enrage me (see: Married at First Sight) or feel exploitative everything in moderation. And even if some people only choose
and unethical (see: anything with a title like 13 and Pregnant to My reality TV for entertainment, who am I to judge? For all I know,
Cousin). There’s a reality show for each personality, from workplace you’re breaking into zoos and spooking the monkeys. Everyone
conflicts of Below Deck to manufactured faux-reality family stories has their treatie.
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the great debate
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learn something new
decoding symbols
THERE ARE HIDDEN MESSAGES ALL AROUND
(IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK).
Words Tiara Swain
I recently moved from the city of Melbourne to the suburbs of garden gnome, both of which have found their way onto the list
Geelong. Before relocating, a friend jokingly warned me to “keep an of swinger symbols. So, the next time you decorate your garden,
eye out for any upside-down pineapples.” Having no idea what they consider the message you might be unintentionally sending
were talking about, I later discovered that this cryptic reference to your neighbours.
was a subtle indicator of the swinger lifestyle. It is thought that
one might come across this fruit displayed on a front porch or Elsewhere in the neighbourhood, sneakers dangling on powerlines are
hanging on a front door, and it has even been known to appear on well-known symbols often associated with drug activity. But have you
the doors of cruise ships. The revelation got me thinking about how ever encountered cowboy boots hanging over a fence post? In some
many other secret symbols were lurking in plain sight, from pink rural areas, this represents a memorial for a comrade who has passed
flamingos to cowboy boots on a fence post. I soon learnt there is away – bottoms face up so the souls of cowboys can go to heaven.
a whole world of hidden messages that exist beneath the surface,
just waiting to be decoded. Symbolism also appears in tea etiquette to show respect and
politeness when enjoying a cuppa. The subtle but widely recognised
Throughout history, humans have engaged in a rich tradition of hidden gesture of turning your teacup upside down on its saucer is a
symbolism to communicate. Ancient Incans, for example, used the discreet way of communicating to your host that you no longer
elaborate system of knot-tying called “quipu” (which comes from the wish to be served more. A similar concept applies to dining, where
Quechua word for “knot”) to track and record information. Different the placement of a knife and fork in the centre of the plate signifies
knot types, positions and colours formed this detailed system. that you have finished your meal and this dish can be removed.
In more recent history, concealed messaging techniques like invisible In the age of smartphones and technology, hidden symbolism has
ink and Morse code successfully allowed secret correspondences to taken on a new, modern form. The dating app Fruitz, for example,
be transmitted in plain sight. Even knitting became an unexpected uses emojis to express relationship preferences. A cherry emoji
way to send covert messages. During World War II, women would tells potential suitors you are looking to tie the knot, while a grape
monitor the passing train activity and translate this through a specific emoji means you are open to a drink or dinner. Online groups,
combination of knit and purl stitches. These sweet little old ladies, forums and subcultures have also developed their own unique
knitting scarves, were the last people you’d suspect to be spies. symbols and jargon specific to their communities.
Today, you may have seen urban landscapes covered in knitted While symbols and codes continue to evolve and adapt to the
patterns or crochet, a phenomenon known as yarn-bombing. It isn’t modern world’s changing communication needs and technologies,
just a colourful and cute way to decorate a street lamp or to keep I find myself drawn to the old-school ways of sending secret signals.
a tree warm – these artworks often hold hidden meanings. Yarn Whether tying scarves to poles on public transport to indicate a
bombing is the ‘crafty’ version of graffiti used to draw attention to willingness for conversation or observing someone reading on the
social justice issues or serve as a form of activism called ‘craftivism.’ train as a sign of shared literary interests, we are continuously
Similarly, in winter you might find scarves tied around trees or projecting our identities through fashion, books, tattoos and
poles. They are not lost but intentionally left there for those in hairstyles to be seen and connect with like-minded people. These
need, highlighting the various ways people use non-verbal cues symbols are like badges worn by a particular party or group. And,
to connect with others. quite frankly, I think it’s time we started our own frankie code.
Handkerchiefs, too, have been used for sending signals. In the LGBTQ+ The use of coded messages has existed for a range of purposes,
community, the placement and colour of a handkerchief in one’s back including communication, identity, secrecy and resistance. Over time,
pocket can communicate specific interests and preferences through some symbols and codes have become widely recognised, while
the ‘hanky code,’ which gained popularity in the ’70s. While this code others remain more obscure and are known only within specific
may not be as prevalent today, it reminds us that something as communities or traditions. Their existence reflects humankind’s
humble as a hanky can hold much more meaning than we think. innate desire to communicate, create meaning and navigate complex
social and cultural landscapes. So, keep your eyes peeled, for who
And if you didn’t know about the hidden meanings of pineapples, knows what hidden messages may be waiting to be decoded in
perhaps you’ve come across the pink flamingo or Grandma’s old your everyday life.
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Illustration Maren Endler
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woodes’ playlist
Photo Mads Colvin
“Blood” – The Middle East I grew up in Townsville and this song “White Flag” – Dido One of the first CDs I ever bought was the one
was written by some guys that are also from there. The Middle this song appeared on. I won a competition for a gaming review for
East showed me, as a younger and independent musician, that my the local paper in primary school and for the winnings I got $300 to
experiences and my writing could also be on an international stage. spend at the electronics shop. Dido’s CD was at the top of the pile.
Their music transports me to rainy summers, night swims, road I just love her voice.
trips and blinding sunshine.
“The Council of Elrond Assembles (feat. Enya)” – Howard Shore
“Hide And Seek” – Imogen Heap The first time I heard this song, I’m a big Enya fan and I love Lord of the Rings, so I love hearing
I played it on repeat for a couple of hours. I just sat at my computer Enya as the voice that represents the elves. I’ve always wanted
desk in primary school looping it over and over and over. I still love to write and record for movie soundtracks, and I think I always
this song so much because Imogen mostly uses her voice as an come back to this when I’m making decisions with all of my
instrument, showing how you don’t always need fancy equipment song-making projects.
to make an awesome song.
“Retrograde” – James Blake I’ve seen James Blake live more
“Concerning the UFO sighting near Highland, Illinois” – Sufjan than any other artist. Hearing this song made me listen to him pretty
Stevens The album that this song appears on is pure nostalgia much every day, and kickstarted my interest in music production.
– I love it in its entirety. It’s fun, playful, dark, poetic and pure. I love making vocal melodies with no lyrics and this song is perfect.
Sufjan’s use of mallets and choirs influences my songs to this day. I’m happy to be alive while James Blake is releasing music.
“Tornado” – Jónsi Sigur Rós and Jónsi are entwined with my origin “Charlie” – Mallrat Sometimes people walk into your life at a special
story. This song is especially special because I ended up making time. Mallrat inspires me with her lyricism and ability to imagine
a duo with one of my best friends called ‘Tornado Club’ because a really special world. This year, I had a chance to play this song
of how much of an influence Jónsi had been on us. It’s cinematic with Grace (aka Mallrat) in her band and “Charlie” was my favourite,
and uplifting. It reminds me of driving through North Queensland, as a pre-existing Mallrat fan. I know this song and her debut record
through the bush and the mountains. will represent a really significant chapter in my life. I can’t wait for
what she creates next!
“Samson” – Regina Spektor My entire music career started with
playing the piano. I used to play a cover of this song to my best “Billions” – Caroline Polachek Caroline’s last two records have
friend Emily, who also loved it. That shared love of a musical artist, been on high rotation for me. I saw her in Melbourne and cried
and the fact that “Samson” is such a simple track, makes it a forever so much. She inspires me to keep running in my own lane, and
song for me. It’s beautiful. to take my time doing things with intention.
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pretty pictures
out at sea
SARAH ELLIOTT’S DELICATE PAINTINGS
FEEL LIKE A DAYDREAM.
Words Shannon Jenkins
There’s more to Sarah Elliott’s paintings than just colour, texture Sarah’s art career blossomed during the ’90s and early 2000s, when
and perspective. A young woman gazes out at sea from her little boat, she went to art school in Melbourne and worked on installations and
or kneels in a lush field, and there is a stillness. A thoughtfulness. contemporary pieces. This career path became tricky once Sarah
The rich atmosphere of the rainforest and water that surrounds had kids, as making money from paintings proved difficult. So, she
Sarah’s Hobart home is reflected in the scenes she paints. “The hung up her palette and became a dressmaker for a few years.
landscape here is very intense, and the ocean is very deep around It was a successful venture – so much so that Sarah was forced to
it. It's beautiful and meditative, but it's also very powerful and decide whether she wanted to employ staff, or give up the business
strong,” she says. altogether. She chose the latter. “And I started painting again. But just
for myself – not for anybody else, not for a gallery or a show,” she says.
Hailing from Lancashire, England, Sarah grew up in the Tassie
coastal town of Ulverstone. She spent most of her childhood While Sarah’s stint in fashion was brief, it gave her essential
exploring the “secret spots” in her family’s big, old garden, and expertise that she reckons artists need more of. “I think it's so
developed a strong connection to the natural world. That connection, important that artists do at least some sort of small-business study
along with themes like transience, migration and displacement, can or have the experience of running a small business and being
be found in Sarah’s artworks. “I care very deeply about the natural self-employed,” she says. “That's the one thing they really should
environment and our place in it here in Australia,” she says. “I think change in art schools, because it doesn't work for everybody
that it's important that we treat nature here with reverence and to just go into the gallery system.”
humbleness rather than a sense of ownership. I find a lot of painters
have that colonial-landscape-privileged view, and a great sense Selling art solely from galleries certainly doesn’t suit Sarah –
of entitlement that comes along with being in a colony.” she thrives off the human connection that comes from face-to-face
environments, like her stall at Hobart’s Salamanca Markets. “People
Oil paint is Sarah’s medium of choice; it allows her to slowly, can tell me why they really liked something and it's so important
gradually build up the layers in her deep landscapes, while keeping to get that directly,” she says. Sarah is also a big advocate for
the dainty figures that centre in her works “light and optimistic”. selling digital prints. “The Pre-Raphaelites were the first artists
It’s a lengthy process that can take up to six months to complete. to make etched prints of their work because they wanted their
So, to get in the creative mindset, Sarah makes sure her home studio work to reach people and to make the world a better place,” she
is light and warm, and listens to “immersive” music like The Cure, says. “That's my feeling. That's my ethos behind the work.” It all
Cocteau Twins and Echo & the Bunnymen – It’s no wonder that fits into Sarah’s belief that art should be accessible, affordable and
her paintings are so moody. “Some people say to me, ‘Why aren't unifying – particularly during such a divisive time in history. “Art and
the pictures a bit more happy? A bit more smiley?’ I’ve tried it and music are very important – more than ever – because they have
I just have to wipe it off. It's like some terrible makeup on a child,” the power to bring people together and into a space of empathy
she says. “I don't find them gloomy; I just find them very rich.” and compassion and feeling.”
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@elliottsarahelliott • frankie.com.au
pretty pictures
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pretty pictures
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Photo Melanie Hinds
frankie x square
back yourself
HOW ATTITUDE AND CONFIDENCE HAVE HELPED
THIS ARTIST GROW HER SMALL BIZ.
Words James Shackell
First Nations artist Delvene Cockatoo-Collins has done a bit of ALWAYS BACK YOURSELF Delvene says success in small business
everything in her career. As a multi-disciplinary creator, working is as much about attitude as anything else, because a good attitude
on Quandamooka Country, Queensland, she’s made costumes for will help you through the lean times. When that little voice in your
the theatre; built a thriving business selling ceramics, sculpture head is saying “Quit. Quit. Quit. No-one likes your art,” you need
and homewares; and even created the medals for the 2018 to counter it with a healthy dose of confidence. “The one thing that
Commonwealth Games. It’s hard to squish her art into a single my friends have said to me is, ‘I love the way you back yourself’,”
category – some things don’t fit into neat, little boxes – but everything Delvene says. “You need to believe it’s going to work. It’s that attitude,
she makes is inspired by stories, culture and heritage, passed once you know what you’re doing, and you can see your progress.
down from her mother, Evelyn, and her grandmother, Bethel. The best advice I can give is to just go out there and have fun.”
With the help of our pals from Square, we sat down with Delvene WORK IN AND ON YOUR BUSINESS Delvene’s day, like most
to ask how she went from a bustling market stall to running her small-business creatives, is divided into working in her business and
own retail space in Minjerribah (North Stradbroke Island). Here working on her business. “I’d say the split is probably 50-50,” she
are her tips for budding creators. says. “I’ll spend maybe two or three hours making in the morning,
or at night – because of the heat. Then during the day I’m taking
DON’T GO IT ALONE It’s hard enough being a creative, or running phone calls, or working on project applications, or doing my books.
a small business, without doing it in a vacuum. Delvene says the That’s one thing I’ve learnt the hard way: if you don’t spend any
trick is to build a supportive community of people who have been time working on the business, you miss out on opportunities.
down this road before. “Everyone’s nervous in the beginning, so go Don’t neglect the hard stuff.”
and talk to people! Go get some good advice. Tap into people who
have been there,” she says. “With the markets, I was always talking SORT OUT YOUR INVOICES If you’re a small-business creative
to people, learning from them, and I even got a few collaborations and you haven’t moved to digital bookkeeping and invoices, get
out of it. And there are so many makers around now! More than onto that pronto. Delvene says it’s been a game-changer. “It’s
ever, even here on the island.” especially good for big orders over the phone,” she says. “Like if
some organisation needs some end-of-year Christmas gifts, I can
DRAW A LINE IN THE SAND At some point, every successful do everything over my phone with Square. Send the invoice
creative will have to ask themselves the question, “What won’t straight away, get paid quickly. It’s super cool.”
I do for money?” Delvene says this is something she’s still trying
to work out – where exactly is her commercial boundary? “I think It’s also important to remember that most creatives take some time
most creatives get this,” she says. “How do I respond to interest to learn the business stuff. It doesn’t always come naturally. And
while maintaining the integrity of my work? That’s a real tension that’s OK. “Man, I’m still learning!” Delvene says, laughing. “I’m not
for me. A company recently reached out to me and said, ‘We love a natural businessperson, and I don’t have all the answers. I think
your work. Can we put it on our product?’ And I had to say, ‘Look, the important thing is to never stop trying, never stop learning.”
thanks, but that’s not the direction I’m going.’” There’s no right or
wrong answer here – every creative will draw the line somewhere
different. For Delvene, the test is: does this feel true to me?
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rant
Western Australia had the last Blockbuster in the country vague memory of having wanted this at one point, coupled with
– and almost certainly the second last in the whole world. a faint sense you’re actively making the world slightly worse.
It closed in 2019. The accelerating societal collapse since
then – the fraying of community, the atomisation of social You know what I mean: the strange emptiness of scrolling through
experience, the retreat into polarisation – is absolutely a streaming service menu, the feeling of time sluicing out of your
no coincidence. Quite simply, society has never recovered life, into the abyss. The sense, once you return to the compromise
from the collapse of the video rental industry. choice you identified what feels like hours earlier, that none of it
means anything. You still have access to this movie, and thousands
For one thing, there is a civilising quality to shame. To put it of others you might want to watch, tomorrow, and tomorrow, and
another way: when I was 16, I knew I couldn’t rent an erotic tomorrow. Just as lockdown flipped the convenience of working
thriller starring one of Alec Baldwin’s brothers, unless I coupled from home into the horror of living at your workplace, streaming
it with Wim Wenders’ Paris, Texas. This was because I had takes the joy of getting a movie out, and locks you in the store.
to interact with a human being between selecting a film and
watching it, and I wanted to present them with a well-rounded There was something about navigating a physical space, with a
idea of who I was. I had a healthy appreciation for trash, sure, sense of deadline, that prevented that kind of blank paralysis
but I also liked to challenge myself. Or so I wanted Peter at – once the sense that you were wasting time started to gnaw at
Starland Video, and everyone else I met, to think. you, something kicked in and you said “right, Spinal Tap and that
horror movie with a pre-fame Hugh Grant will have to do” and you
“I think he’s something of an Anglophile,” Peter said, looking left and watched it and it was good or it was bad.
at the cover of Paris, Texas, and I nodded and smiled and made
a mental note to think very hard about whom that might be What every video store I ever went to shared – whether it was the
referring to and what it might mean. Blockbuster in a posh area, next to the golf accessories store, or
the arthouse favourite just outside Fremantle – was that sense of
This is a miniature example of all the situations that have concrete possibility: it felt boundless, but also finite; all the world
required the best of me: first dates; my time at jobs I love; was available to you within those four walls, but you had to live
the best parts of university; everywhere that required me with the decision you made. Unlike the frictionless bounty made
to improvise my way towards the kind of person I want to be. available by the invisible processes of streaming, the video store
It’s through those processes you sculpt your ways of being was an event. You had to put your shoes on and everything.
in the world – something I’m not sure we’ve gotten back as
a whole, post lockdowns. You could make the wrong decision, which is the only thing
that makes a choice meaningful. And having to live with it, watch
This is why streaming was the perfect content delivery platform it, because you paid for that movie, and you have a limited time to
for the COVID era. It’s the movie viewing equivalent of room- recoup your investment. Let that lapse and you faced late fees and,
temperature loaded fries delivered to you by a gig economy far worse, Peter reminding you that other people might also enjoy
worker – a dim firing in the brain’s pleasure centres, some Daniel Baldwin’s work in Bare Witness.
073
around the house
homebodies
matisse and kane barri
live in a delightfully eclectic
abode in bendigo.
INTERVIEW SHANNON JENKINS PHOTOS LEON SCHOOTS
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around the house
How long have you been living in this house? Kane Barri: and statues. They are all from a variety of different eras and artists.
We bought the place in 2009 as a three-bedroom Victorian. Some were family heirlooms, too. I am also a bit of a Nick Thomm
It’s changed significantly since then, though. artwork collector (or “obsessed”, according to Matisse). Ninety
per cent of the artwork in the home is his, collected over the past
What’s the build of the place like? KB: It’s a weatherboard decade. I have 33 pieces now and still love them. Colour brings
Victorian-era home – very common in Bendigo. It sits right in the us all a lot of joy in our home, hence our multi-coloured stairs.
middle of our block so we have decent front, back and side yards.
With each renovation, we have continued on with that theme to Matisse Barri: All the little collective pieces tell their own stories.
match it as best as possible. We like the outside to look basic From our travels, we purchase pieces and bring them back as
and unassuming and the inside to be completely opposite. a reminder of holidays. We also find ourselves visiting a lot of
secondhand stores to score special goodies.
How much renovating have you done to the space? KB: Only 95
per cent of it! We did our first major renovation in 2012. We added As retail store owners, you have access to a bunch of lovely
an open-plan living-dining-kitchen space out the back, plus a new new accessories and décor. How often does new stuff come home
bathroom. We had a custom-designed kitchen made by a furniture with you? MB: We sure do! We are so lucky to be surrounded by
designer. He sourced a bunch of “grey worn” wooden fence so much beauty. We try to not bring home too many new pieces.
panelling and made our cabinetry with them. Many of the brands we stock make pieces built to last, so they are
not only timeless in their style, but they are also durable and stand
Then we did a much larger extension in 2018 and added a second the test of time.
level. We added three bedrooms upstairs, one bathroom and a small
balcony. We pushed out a few walls downstairs and eradicated What’s your favourite spot in the house? KB: I just love the kitchen-
one bedroom to make room for our dining space and the staircase. lounge area. It feels very calming sitting back with all the artwork
We changed the largest bedroom into a second living area, which is and collectables around. It’s very homely for the kids, too. Plus, it
dedicated to the children for playing, designing and school work. has the wood fire in winter.
We also added a custom designed pool in 2021 into what was a MB: I’m split between the seasons. In summer, I love the pool area.
fairly unused area at the back of the property. It wraps around Sitting in the sun reading a book while the kids swim brings me so
onto our existing back decking. much joy. Plus, the bonus of the outside shower means the night-
time routine is quick and mess-free, which I love.
Your home is packed with colourful art and eclectic stuff. Where
have you collected all these bits and bobs from over the years? In the winter, I love the fireplace. I’m known in our family to be a bit
KB: I am a huge collector of things. Not necessarily antiques or of a hog and pull the bean bag right up close to steal all the heat
anything overly valuable, but I love a real mix of styles in ceramics while reading a good book, with a cup of tea.
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How do your individual styles work together in the space?
KB: I am probably more of the collector of things in general, but
I feel we both have a similar taste in things. The things I choose
are normally the permanent art things, whereas Matisse loves
the weekly changes of flower arrangements, bed linens, et cetera.
MB: I love to cook and do craft with the kids. Or potter in the
garden. We are all movie lovers too, so a family movie night is
a regular activity at our place, all huddling on the couch with all
the cushions and blankets.
MB: I love all our special things that we have collected over time
but I don’t have a prized possession – at the end of the day, they
are just things.
078
Photo Rochelle Eagle
pots and pans
everything fig-scotti
NATALIE PAULL, THE FOUNDER OF NORTH MELBOURNE
SHOP BEATRIX BAKES, IS REVIVING THE HUMBLE BISCOTTI.
Words and recipe Natalie Paull
Biscotti were the ‘it bake’ in the ’90s and early ’00s, but then they METHOD
were abandoned from dessert menus and jars in cafes – the Mary
Celeste of cookies. I succumbed to pastry peer pressure and made Makes 24 nutty, seedy snaps.
them once or twice for my shop, but they never really sold, and
I didn’t persist – until I made these addictively munchable fig-scotti, Preheat the oven to 150°C. Spray a 20cm square or round cake
inspired by a David Lebovitz recipe, everything bagels and a dried tin with cooking oil and line with baking paper to fit snugly along
fig and anise sourdough loaf. I adore these with triple cream brie. the base and sides.
I use my trusty biscotti formula base and tinker with the add-ins
depending on what’s in my pantry. I bake it in a tray and slice Square tins can vary from 20cm to 23cm. If you have a larger square,
thinly, so the final form is more seedy wafer than tooth-jarring the wafers will have a thinner width, so I like a smaller square tin.
crescent. Use raw everything to start and keep the toasting for the You can also use a round tin and get lovely odd lengths of wafers.
second bake, after slicing, where the flavours of the nuts and seeds
become fully realised. Biscotti – you are the everything, once again. Weigh the seeds and spices together in a small bowl, then take
out 20g for our pre-bake coating. With scissors, snip the stems
INGREDIENTS off the dried figs, then snip into small pieces. Add the figs and pine
nuts to the seed mix.
Ⱥ cooking oil spray
Put the egg, egg yolk (keep the white in a separate bowl for later)
Seedy nut mix and grated zest in a small bowl. Lightly break up with a fork.
Ⱥ 60g pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
Ⱥ 40g sunflower kernels Weigh the sugar, flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl and
Ⱥ 20g sesame seeds, white or black swizzle lightly with your fingers. Lightly break up the reserved egg
Ⱥ 20g linseeds (flax seeds) white with a fork in a small bowl and set aside with a brush for later.
Ⱥ 10g poppy seeds
Ⱥ 3g (1/2 tsp) whole fennel seeds Add the nut/seed mix to the dry ingredients, then add the egg mix
Ⱥ 2g (1/4 tsp) whole aniseed and combine firmly with your hands until all the dry stuff is taken up
Ⱥ 80g dried figs and you have a firm and VERY sticky dough on your hands (literally).
Ⱥ 80g whole pine nuts
Biscotti doughs get wetter as they get worked – that’s why I opt for
Biscotti base the hands, not the mixer. If you want to machine mix (helpful if doing
Ⱥ 100g egg (approx. 2 eggs) a larger batch), put the egg mix in first, then the dry ingredients,
Ⱥ 20g egg yolk (from approx. 1 egg, reserving the white and mix with dough hook for 2-3 minutes – don’t overmix.
for the final glaze)
Ⱥ finely grated zest of 1 lemon Clean your fingers, then scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured
Ⱥ 200g caster (superfine) sugar work surface and knead lightly to make it smooth. Form it into a
Ⱥ 200g plain (all-purpose) flour flat square the exact size of your tin. On the work surface, brush
Ⱥ 4g (heaped 1/2 tsp) baking powder the log with half the egg white. Sprinkle half the reserved seeds
Ⱥ 3g (heaped 1/4 tsp) fine sea salt onto the surface, then pop the square, seed side down, into the tin
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pots and pans
and lightly flatten – don’t compact the top. Egg-white wash the top diameter is even across all logs. Brush as much of the surface
and sprinkle on the remaining reserved seeds. as you can with the egg white, then carefully roll in the seeds
or sugar. Place on a baking paper-lined baking tray with around
Pressing too firmly will create a gummy centre. 2.5cm on both sides for space to spread. They will bake faster
without the tin, so make the first bake 30-40 minutes. Slice on
Bake for 50-60 minutes until the top is very pale gold, and it feels a dramatic angle then re-crisp.
firm when pressed. Don’t aim for colour now; we will get that later.
The internal temperature should be 100°C. Nuts, no seeds?
Keep the biscotti base exactly the same and change the add-ins
If it comes out too early, it will be gummy/tacky when you cut it – to a total of 315g. Do:
not a binbound disaster, just not the greatest.
raw almond, fennel seeds and raisins or dried cherries
When the slab is ready, remove the tin from the oven and place on raw hazelnut, mandarin zest and dark chocolate pieces
a cooling rack and set the timer for 10 minutes. Set up a chopping just raw pistachio (add extra lemon zest).
board on a damp cloth to prevent sliding. De-mould the biscotti
and place it on the board. With your sharpest serrated knife, Keep it to roughly 200g chopped nuts and 100g dried fruit.
start sawing the biscotti into even-as-you-can 4mm thin slices. Keep the zest and/or add a sprinkle of fennel seeds.
The middle will be softer, so I slice the two opposite sides and then
the middle. The very middle can be soft and hard to slice – just do Replace the pre-bake sprinkle with 20g demerara sugar.
your best. Those funny lookin’ ones will be your snacks.
CHEF’S TIPS
If you delay slicing too long, the dough will become a brittle jerk
to slice (re-warm it). Slice too soon and the dough will rip apart as Keep airtight and at room temperature for up to two months.
you slice (cool it longer). Best is when the dough and nuts are a Freshen up with a low oven re-crisp.
similar temperature.
084
something to say
085
recycled treasures
MEET UK ARTIST PAUL WOODS
(AKA PARADOX PAUL).
What does your creative process look like? I have shelves filled with
ornaments, broken toys and bits and bobs. I just move things around,
playing like a child. As I place things together, some combinations
work immediately. If I laugh out loud while doing this, then that one
is finished, no matter how ‘stupid’ it is. (‘Stupidness’ is integral to the
process and the result. It’s a major aspect of how I feel about the
human world, the awful habits of much of its population, and hyper-
consumerism.) Some items can sit for years gathering dust, until
that tiny ‘eureka’ moment and something is suddenly completed.
How do people react to your art? It’s been said my work is like
Marmite (sorry Vegemite) – people love it or hate it. On my website
I’ve added comments from visitors and passersby. While the shop
is closed, people don’t realise I can hear them while I’m pottering
away inside. Most common are “What the fuck is that?”, “What a
pile of shit!” and “Rip off!” But these have to be treated as a badge
of honour (my friends tell me) because, to be pompous about it, art
which doesn’t divide opinion is not much more than decoration. Near
the bottom of that list, the remarks are more encouraging. “The Isle
of Wight’s Banksy”, for instance, doesn’t upset me too badly.
088
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I’m into hugs. Obsessed, some might say. Once, I found but side hugs are wishy-washy: either get in there, or high five me
myself squeezing the bejeezus out of a Belgian waffle vendor instead. Upside? Sidewinders can turn into Bears if you practise
on the Circular Quay promenade – all because the dude had patience. For example, allow your long-suffering partner to unload
a “free hugs” sign stuck on his food truck. Ah, the innocence their armful of post-work debris (laptop, takeaway pizza, bunch
of pre-pandemic times… of flowers) before hurling your touch-starved carcass at them
the second they walk through the door.
Renowned family therapist Virginia Satir once said, “We need four
hugs a day for survival. We need eight hugs a day for maintenance. THE BUTTERFLY Imitating air kisses, these hugs barely touch
We need 12 hugs a day for growth.” But hugs are now an endangered the sides – your sides, that is. Butterflies are SO happy to see you,
species. ‘Touch starvation’ has become a post-pandemic Thing, fluttering their arms around your shoulders and overwhelming your
research shows, causing us to experience higher levels of stress, senses with thrilled squeals and wafting scent and rainbow gauze…
anxiety and loneliness than ever before. One solution? More hugs. Only when they drift away do you realise they’ve somehow avoided
Clever clogs (read: scientists) recommend leaning into a warm touching any part of your actual body. An empty sugar rush.
embrace to become happier and healthier, and to generally
feel safer and more loved. Hugs also stimulate the release of the THE CAT Much like their furry counterparts, Cats provide lessons
‘cuddle chemical’ oxytocin – and frankly, any non-illegal activity that in consent. No matter how much you’d like to cuddle them, it’s best
pumps some happy drugs into my system gets my hug of approval. to avoid their claws and let them choose the time, the place, and
the person on whom they’d like to bestow their largesse. In the
Ready to reclaim the hug? Start by identifying some common meantime, look out for the occasional slow blink of approval and
types of huggers. languid toe touching your thigh while the two of you are chilling
on opposite sides of the couch: it’s just as meaningful.
THE BEAR Bears specialise in the kind of full-body envelopment
typically supplied by a warm bath filled with bubbles. It’s THE ECHIDNA Look, some people don’t like hugs. I may not
wholehearted, comforting and feels like home. Level things up and understand you, but I respect your choice. Echidnas roll into
you get Turbo Bears: lifting you up for a spine-cracking jiggle and metaphorical balls when they see an embrace heading their way –
sorting six months’ worth of chiropractor appointments in one go. it’s best to approach them with a friendly nod, and maybe a cupcake
If a Turbo Bear happens to have big boobs, too, it’s just pure bliss. or two to show that you rather enjoy their company. (Another type
of Echidna is me wearing very spiky dangly earrings and injuring
THE OCTOPUS Not to be mistaken for Bear hugs, these hugs seem an unsuspecting Bear while getting squished against their chest.
to involve way more than eight limbs and two of those always seem What’s a little impalement between friends?)
to end up on your butt. There’s something a little bit sticky about an
Octopus hug, probably because frantically waving your strawberry SPECIAL MENTION: THE TREE HUGGER Hear me out: trees are
margarita as a barrier between you and the oncoming cephalopod super-huggable, and perfect if humans freak you out but you really
doesn’t seem to prevent a full-frontal assault. If you spot an crave a hug. The benefits of the Japanese practice of ‘forest bathing’
Octopus oiling its way to you, avoid. (shinrin-yoku) have been widely documented: spending time around
trees can reduce stress, improve immunity, and even accelerate
THE SIDEWINDER The notorious one-armed non-hug I love to recovery from illness or trauma. The kicker? Hugging a tree releases
loathe. Sure, they can be platonically friendly and supportive, oxytocin. (If the tree hugs back, please do let me know!)
091
The ‘birthday berets’ plarty was hosted by Pla Pla
group member Elleni Canaris of Elleni the Label.
my project
If there’s one thing that uber-creative lady Rachel Burke wants to For each session, Rachel contributed the bulk of the materials
instil in us all, it’s that low-stakes, primary-school-style arts and (she’s a classic crafter, so naturally she has a hoard of leftover
crafts are the bee’s knees. materials from past projects). Attendees would also bring along
their own bits and bobs to play with. “For the STUNglasses project,
That’s why she decided to host monthly creative gatherings everyone brought an old pair of sunglasses,” Rachel says. “That’s
throughout 2023. Dubbed ‘Pla Pla’, the shindigs saw the creation been a really fun parameter to put in place – using stuff that we
of everything from cereal box bags and berets to melted-bead art already have lying about.”
and ‘STUNglasses’. “The concept of ‘Pla Pla’ is something that I call
my self-devised play-at-home. Because I’m a practising artist and Of all the Pla Pla sessions, Rachel’s favourite was the day dedicated
designer, I like to free-play to spur new ideas,” Rachel says. “And so to making handbags out of cereal boxes. “Mine just had pipe cleaners
I thought it would be a fun idea to just call the gatherings Pla Pla.” all over it. It was like a firework bag,” she says. “I continued making
it after the workshop. I must have worked on this thing for like
Rachel’s guest list included a bunch of friends and acquaintances whom 18 hours, honestly, but it was a triumph.”
she’d met through events, like markets, but hadn’t had the chance
to build deeper friendships with, and her rules for the ‘plarties’ were The spirit of Pla Pla hasn’t just been contained to plarties – Rachel
simple: bring a friend, a piece of show-and-tell, a snack, and a story. also took the concept on the road, exhibiting her work and hosting
workshops in Murwillumbah, New South Wales. Then in late 2023, she
It was a massive success – new friends were made, and each self-published a book. Designed by Tamara Scheiwe (and featuring
gathering resulted in the creation of a different crafty project. One cover art made out of melty beads) Pla Pla is a compilation of each
particularly “dreamy” plarty, for example, was hosted by beret-maker project from the year. “It’s a monthly account of what we did, what
Elleni Canaris (of Elleni the Label). The day served as a joint birthday our dress code was, and a little bit about what we made each month,”
party for Rachel and fellow Pla Pla member Tamara Scheiwe. “It was Rachel says. “So it’s kind of like a DIY book – except I’m not saying
very wholesome and lovely,” Rachel says. “Elleni set up a big spread explicitly how to make everything; it’s more of a prompt for each one.”
of food and a cake. It just made the year so special, doing some
targeted creative play, but also a pointed activity to make friends Now that the year of Pla Pla has come to an end, Rachel intends to
– particularly post-COVID. It’s been nice to get together in real life host semi-regular public workshops to keep the magic of creative play
and do something with our hands and just play in a kid-like way.” alive. “I really do want to keep pushing that message of low-stakes
craft that brings people together and also just allows you to explore.”
Playing like a kid is at the heart of Pla Pla – there’s no judgement
between attendees about the quality of each project, and everyone For anyone who wants to give childlike play a go, Rachel has one
is encouraged to finish their piece so they have a tangible treasured piece of advice: “Go to your pantry. Find a cardboard box, and then
memory to take home. “I like to keep all the projects really low- find a box of all those scraps and materials that you have,” she says.
stakes – something that you can’t overthink,” Rachel says. “I’m big “Have a look at your box, get some masking tape, tape it up and start
into ‘bad art’. It really is about the process and it’s about discovery.” sewing or gluing your materials on to it. See what you can create.”
093
read all about it
my favourite read The past couple of years have been good when it comes to
Australian book releases, both fiction and nonfiction. They’ve been
particularly good for female authors, who have had a real moment
WRITERLY WOMEN SHARE THE MOST in the Australian literature landscape – partly thanks to online
TREASURED BOOKS ON THEIR SHELVES. movements like Bookstagram and BookTok that have helped put
homegrown writers in front of thousands of book-hungry eyeballs.
Words Nicole Madigan
It can be difficult to keep up, though – especially when, on top of
a constant stream of incredible new releases, there are so many
classics many of us are yet to read. And let’s face it, when it comes
to books, nothing beats a classic – those books you can pick up at
a moment’s notice and just know you’re going to love. To help you
find your next forever book, we asked four super-successful female
authors to share their all-time favourite reads.
094
Illustration Lilin Chung (@drawmeinstyle)
JANE EYRE BY CHARLOTTE BRONTË Megan Rogers (author with longing and heartache – not to mention the guilt of
of The Heart Is a Star): “I have read Jane Eyre by Charlotte causing pain. So I was captivated as Rob dissected and
Brontë 22 times. Every time I visit a secondhand bookstore, overthought and twisted himself like a pretzel trying to
I browse the shelves looking for an edition I don’t yet have work out where he went wrong in past relationships. The
to add to my collection. In fact, I built my entire PhD around truth is, although some people hold Rob up as a hopeless
the classic and visited the Brontë Museum in England to romantic, he was more of an anti-hero: self-centred, flawed,
meet with its curator and sit in the room in which Charlotte often unkind. But his voice and inner conflict rang true on
died. It was one of the most moving experiences of my life. the page and, as an aspiring writer at the time, that’s what
Jane Eyre is one of those rare books that grows with you. As a I appreciated the most.”
reader it made me feel less alone as a little girl, but the story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
also kept me company through my 20s and 30s. Every time
I read it, I discover something new about its story and myself, WHEN ONE OF US HURTS BY MONICA VUU Ashley
and am reminded that you can come of age at any age.” Kalagian Blunt (author of Dark Mode): “I’ve got at least
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . a dozen favourite books of all time. One I’ve been raving
about is Monica Vuu’s creepy When One of Us Hurts. Set
HIGH FIDELITY BY NICK HORNBY Gabrielle Tozer (author in fictional Port Brighton, Tasmania, this crime novel takes
of Remind Me How This Ends): “It’s taking all my restraint the small-town-with-a-secret trope to the next level. We get
not to share a list of my top-five, desert-island favourite two main narrators. Teenage Livvy warms our hearts by
books in chronological order. That’s what Rob Gordon – confiding that she only wants what’s best for her brother
the overthinking and insufferable protagonist from High and her beloved hometown after two deaths leave the
Fidelity – would do. Rob loves a top five. I’m the same. community shattered. Marie cackles, and busies herself
I adore lists and deep-diving on my passions (yes, I’m slipping a dead cockroach into her housemate’s sandwich.
also insufferable). So, it’s probably no surprise that when You think you know what’s going on, but you’ve got no
I picked up High Fidelity as a navel-gazing, music-mad, idea. As a lifelong crime reader, it takes a lot to capture my
pop-culture-obsessed teenager that I was hooked. After all, attention and really surprise me these days. When One of Us
the opening line reveals that a top-five list of memorable Hurts did both masterfully. Vuu’s darkly imaginative tale is
break-ups underpins the plot. I was 17, but already familiar one I’ll be thinking about for years.”
095
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pretty pictures
What do you do? I’m a painter based in New York. I work in oil paint. which allowed me to work at a larger scale, and I began
focusing on women as my subject.
Who are the women that appear in these paintings on paper?
Sometimes the women in my paintings are based on someone I did a lot of paintings of women crying in bed. I was going through
I know, but more often than not, they are invented using various a bad time. While I still paint women, the paintings have evolved.
references. I think of them as more archetypal representations of I felt that I wanted to look at beautiful things – things that are a
women, rather than a focus on the particulars of a specific person. pleasure, because that makes me feel better. I’d love to create
things that give that feeling.
Your artworks are filled with vibrantly patterned fabrics and
backgrounds. Could we find similar patterns in your own wardrobe What are the women in this series thinking about? I definitely
and home? Actually, the way I dress and even my home are fairly don’t want to prescribe what the women are thinking about – that’s
minimal – except for my studio, which is covered in my oil sketches up to the viewer to decide. And I’m curious about what others bring
for pattern ideas and swatches of colours. to a painting – what someone else’s interpretation is.
You’ve been painting hyperrealist female figures for decades. When do you feel the most creative? I paint every day, even if I’m not
What draws you to the human form? I don’t think of my women feeling inspired. I find that sometimes the best way to push through
as hyperreal. They aren’t meant to be a depiction of some ideal an artist block is to just keep doing something – just experimenting.
of flawlessness. It’s just the way I paint – I like the surface of Sometimes I have to ruin a painting or sand areas down to
the painting to be very polished and rich. And I love saturated discover the solution.
colour, so that smoothness and vibrancy shows up in the women
as well as in the flowers or patterns. I think of the figure as Did you always want to be an artist, or did you dream of being
the architecture or starting point of the painting. I suppose my something totally different as a kid? I grew up in a creative
choice to depict women has to do with identity, and I like the environment and was always drawing, painting and sewing.
human connection. As a kid I’d make toys and dolls and clothes for myself. Once
I made a pair of shoes.
How has your artistic style evolved over the years? Right after
art school I moved to New York City where I had several lousy Where can we see more of your work? On Instagram at
day jobs and was living in a tiny apartment. I loved medieval art @jocelynhobbie or my website at jocelynhobbie.com. I’m
and taught myself how to use egg tempera (a paint made from represented by Fredericks & Freiser Gallery in New York City
pigment and egg yolk). I was doing miniature, autobiographical at fredericksfreisergallery.com and I have a show coming
tempera paintings. But after a while I developed bad headaches up in March 2024 at the Jessica Silverman Gallery, San
from the way I was working. Eventually I changed to oil paint, Francisco, California.
099
pretty pictures
100
pretty pictures
103
Healing the planet requires changing peoples' everyday habits.
We do this by offering a one of a kind cup people love to use.
A year into this adventure, I’ve ticked off many country goals –
I own a pair of Blundstones, I spot kangaroos daily, and I haven’t
been stuck in a traffic jam for 12 months. What I didn’t anticipate
was my newfound obsession with the local area Facebook group.
I joined the online hub upon the advice of a friend who had also
returned home recently. What she failed to mention, though, were
the virtual brawls I’d witness every time I opened the app.
Sure, there are plenty of friendly posts about cherry farm opening
hours, lost (and then thankfully found) dogs or amusing branches
seen on evening walks. But the majority of the time, the Facebook
group is filled with heated debates on whether a new Woolworths
should be built or if repainting the gates at the Botanical Gardens
is highly offensive to the rust that has called it home for 20 years.
So, instead of peacefully sitting on my veranda, tea in hand,
My favourite debate thus far revolved around whether the town admiring the wattle and the yellow-tailed black cockatoos, you’ll
had invested enough resources into Christmas decorations. Half find me sprawled on the couch, messaging a local friend with an
the commenters complained about not wanting their rates used “Are you seeing this?!” to which she’ll promptly respond, “The
to “display northern hemisphere symbols”, while the other half duck-feeding feud or the poop in the public pool disaster?”
deemed the small-scale effort “disgustingly under-done”. Personally,
I appreciated the half-arsed Christmas decorations. Who doesn’t While I miss the gentle parenting of my Melbourne groups,
love a giant novelty bow wrapping up the information centre? there’s something refreshing about the free-for-all nature of a
country Facebook group. I often wonder if my fellow inhabitants are
I often find myself getting drawn into these debates, nodding along scrutinising my every move during a grocery run, ready to make a
with Debbie, who fights for the removal of misogynistic graffiti on a passive-aggressive post about the time I spent fondling avocados.
local bridge. I audibly tut when someone suggests this graffiti is art There’s nothing like the fear of public shaming to keep one on their
and hum with enthusiasm as a rogue group decides to tackle the best fruit shop behaviour. I, for one, am enjoying the adrenaline
sexist graffiti themselves since the council has thrown in the towel. rush that comes with it.
105
Photo Kristoffer Paulsen
nine to five
on the job
RACHEL BERNERS IS A MELBOURNE-
BASED ACUPUNCTURIST.
As told to Tiara Swain
I’m not sure if I pursued acupuncture or if acupuncture pursued They range from 0.16, which is the finest that I use and which you
me. Growing up, at the back of our family home there was a natural barely feel, to about a 0.25 gauge. I use 0.25 if someone has pain or
healing centre. I started working there when I was 14, initially as if they have a stronger constitution. Sometimes, for people who are
a cleaner. After about a year, they gave me the opportunity to take more sensitive or nervous about it, I’ll just do massage for the first
on reception work. treatment, getting them used to sensing the channels and points on
their body. I’ve worked with clients before where I’ve put a couple
This healing centre, run by women, was a very calm, tranquil and of needles in and they’ve not even been aware of it. They’re like,
empowered space. I remember vacuuming one of the rooms and “Oh, really? You’ve already put two needles in?”
seeing an acupuncture chart for the first time. This was my first
exposure to this vast galaxy of points and energies in the body. I’m really passionate about treating the LGBTIQA+ community,
It was intriguing, representing a coherent and interconnected being queer myself. I came out when I was 38, and that experience
system that fascinated me. gave me empathy for people struggling with their identity. It’s
important for people to feel accepted and supported to show up
When I finished school, I really didn’t know what I wanted to do. as who they really are. I love to help people transform grief, pain
I’ve always been interested in the body and the mind. So, I enrolled and stuck energy into inspiration, presence and new possibilities.
in a human biology degree. Then, within the degree, they offered My mission comes from my own healing process and journey.
a Chinese medicine major. It was like Chinese medicine was
finding me once again. I’ve worked in multi-modality centres and with different teams,
but I always envisioned opening my own space. Achieving that in
Acupuncture, as part of traditional Chinese medicine, is an Melbourne has been really fulfilling. I take my cat to work, as I’m a
energetic healing modality that brings the body and mind into devoted cat lady. She brings a zen to the clinic, which people love,
alignment with the natural cycles or rhythms of nature. In Chinese and she’s quickly becoming famous on the street. I love nature, so
medicine philosophy, human beings are part of – not separate there are lots of plants. I also tried to bring in elements of water
from – the natural world. Acupuncture activates the body’s innate and flow with a lot of Japanese design and circular shapes.
self-regulating and self-healing capacity. It’s like switching on It’s been great bringing a vision of a space together.
the body’s ability to bring itself back into a state of balance.
Whatever the issue, we identify patterns of disharmony and I’m glad I didn’t end up in a medical pathology lab because
work to resolve them. I really love working with people – it helps me feel connected
to life. I love being able to support people holistically. We provide
In Chinese medicine, grief predominantly affects the lung system. something that complements Western medicine, helping people
I work a lot with the lung system and the large intestine system. understand their journey and how to approach their mental,
My favourite point is lung channel point 7. It helps to regulate, open emotional and physical challenges.
up and promote the function of the lung, which not only relates to
the respiration on the dense physical level, but also helps someone Managing your energy rather than managing time is the wisest
to release the past and feel inspired by life. Every channel is an thing that you can do. I think that’s something that I try and practise.
entire system within itself. Then again, I’m like any other human – just because I’m a Chinese-
medicine practitioner does not mean I’ve got it together all the time.
Often people will come in and tell me that they’re quite anxious I might have one amazing day when I’m feeling on top of the world
about the needling process. Acupuncture is very different to getting and everything’s going well, and then shit hits the fan the next day.
a vaccination – the needles are very fine stainless-steel pins. Welcome to life, you know?
107
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109
popcorn
110
popcorn
Why did you choose this particular scene to illustrate? I chose this
scene because it is the moment that you realise all the seemingly
small, insignificant actions and comments Marty McFly makes in the
past can drastically change the future. This concept is something
I have always found really fascinating, and this movie does it so well!
What tools and techniques did you use to create this illustration?
This was digitally illustrated on Procreate. I started off with a rough
sketch (and another, and another) until I was happy with the outline.
I chose a limited colour palette based on the scene and filled in the
shapes using the 6B pencil in Procreate to add texture.
What’s the ideal way to watch Back to the Future? The ideal way to
watch this movie is with your family. Time travel, humour, style from
the ’80s and ’50s, romance, action, sci-fi, friendship and “Oh my god,
what is going to happen?!” moments – it’s got something for everyone.
111
popcorn
Why did you choose this particular scene to illustrate? O-Ren Ishii is techniques on scrap paper. I finished the illustration digitally with
one of my favourite antagonists of all time, so it made sense to draw a red gradient background – a visual technique often used as a
her final epic sword fight against the Bride. I love the contrast of her backdrop for skies or water in traditional Eastern paintings – except
soft snow-white kimono and small frame against her reputation as one this time they hint at O-Ren’s intimidation and her bloody fate.
of the most infamous leaders in Tokyo’s underworld. I wanted to capture
the way she slowly unsheathes her sword and her piercing stare – a What’s the ideal way to watch Kill Bill? If you’re watching it
tactic that exhibits her ruthlessness in a beautifully intimidating way. for the first time, go into it without any expectations. Strap in with
one or two of your (slightly grown up) mates and let yourself be
What tools and techniques did you use to create this illustration? taken on the ride. If you’re anything like me, you don’t often spend
I used the drawing app Procreate on my iPad to create the lines and time enjoying a film. But when you do, you make an occasion out
colours. I wanted to add subtle elements of the traditional Japanese of it with a slightly fancier snack. I would enjoy Kill Bill with some
woodblock print style, so I overlaid the illustration with handmade homemade crunchy paprika chickpeas – a delicious, easy snack
textures created out of acrylic paint strokes and paint-splashing to pick at while you enjoy the film.
112
popcorn
Why did you choose this particular scene to illustrate? This is before heading over to Photoshop to create the final artwork.
such an iconic scene! When I think about that moment, it’s kind I love merging traditional techniques like risograph and screen
of heartbreaking watching Truman realise that he lives in a fake printing into my digital process. As for tools, my iPad doubles as
reality. But on the flip side, the scene is also about Truman finally a graphic tablet when it’s connected to Photoshop on my laptop.
taking control of his destiny, ditching the familiar and diving into I used to have heaps of brushes, but now I’ve downsized to just
the unknown. Almost 25 years on, the film still hits close to home. four or five brushes. I also bring in both my own scanned textures
In this age of social media, it makes you wonder how much of our and purchased textures to give that extra touch.
lives are curated or staged for everyone else to see.
What’s the ideal way to watch The Truman Show? I’m not
What tools and techniques did you use to create this illustration? entirely sure whether there’s an ideal way to watch this movie, but
I mostly work in digital but I always start with a pencil and I find it to be a great choice for when you need to feel the feelings
paper. It sort of brings those ideas into the physical world first. – laugh, feel a bit sad, and happy-cry. And for me, I definitely
Then, I take the initial sketch to Procreate for some refining need salted popcorn!
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popcorn
What tools and techniques did you use to create this illustration?
I went digital and used Procreate to bring it to life while channelling
the line “We’ll be drinking margaritas by the sea, Mamacita.”
What’s the ideal way to watch Thelma and Louise? When life’s
feeling a bit ‘meh’ and stuck, and you’re craving some rebellious
energy, head to the drive-in with your best mate. Load up the boot
with every cushion you can find in your house, pack some red wine
and order some jam doughnuts at the counter. It’s the perfect
recipe for a night of cinematic rebellion and friendship!
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time for a
break, students!
get 25% off frankie subscriptions
bold birds “Birds are like my gateway to nature. They are my connection
back to wildness,” says Leila Jeffreys, a Sydney-based photographic
artist who, for more than a decade, has earnt a crust from
LEILA JEFFREYS’ SUBJECTS MAY BE SMALL, capturing the characters of birds through portraiture.
BUT THEY’VE GOT BIG PERSONALITIES.
There’s no one way to shoot a bird’s portrait – since different
Words Shannon Jenkins species have differing requirements – but over the years Leila has
gained access to these creatures by building trusting relationships
with carers from wildlife rehabilitation centres and sanctuaries,
and then with the birds themselves. “Because those birds are in
care – even if they’re wild birds – they are in a place where they’re
used to being fed; they’re used to being cared for,” Leila says.
To get her shot, Leila often travels to the birds and sets up her gear
(which includes a perch) in a spot where they’re comfortable. “You
give them a little bit of catering – little treats. If they’re cockatoos,
they love almonds. You have seed if it’s budgerigars, or you might
have fruit if it’s a rainforest species of pigeon,” she says. Once the
avian subject is happy, the magic begins.
Leila has a hard time naming her favourite kind of feathered friend, but
she has plenty of favourite experiences to reminisce over. On a recent
trip to the sub-Antarctic, for example, penguins engulfed her while
she took their photos. “You sit down and they all waddle up to you and
stand around you,” she says. “At one point I had one pulling at the back
of my shirt. I was trying to take a photo and they were all over me.”
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pete blue
Another memorable shoot was with a big brolga that had been That’s when you’re on the biggest high ever,” she says. “I buried my
rescued as a chick, and walked around the set “like just another face in his little feathers and smelled him – kākāpōs are known to
person”. Leila’s most interesting experience, however, was with smell like a dusty clarinet case – and it was the most beautiful smell.”
a kākāpō – a large, flightless nocturnal parrot that is native
to New Zealand – named Sirocco. “He became really famous Now that Leila is snapping birds all over the world, you’d never
because Stephen Fry was doing this documentary called Last guess that she fell into her career by “total accident”. She had studied
Chance to See about all these critically endangered animals. photography at uni, but decided that commercial photography was not
While he was filming, Sirocco got all frisky and started to mate the career for her. “Just how quickly you have to turn things around,
with the camera,” Leila explains. it didn’t suit my constitution at all,” she says. “But separately to that,
I was a nature-lover, and I was a bit of a backyard bird-watcher.”
Sirocco became sick as a youngster and ended up in care.
Since he’s grown up around humans, he’s “forgotten that Leila took part in volunteer work, like tagging seabirds, and
he’s a little bit of a bird” and now acts as a kind of mascot during that time, she questioned why other people didn’t seem
for New Zealand’s conservation effort. After a long process of to appreciate the beauty of birds like she did. That’s when she
back-and-forths to receive approval, Leila travelled to Sirocco’s realised she wanted to capture the personality of birds through
home at Zealandia – an urban eco-sanctuary in Wellington – to portraiture. “I got obsessed with this idea and just had to do it for
photograph him. “Photographing him was like photographing myself. I had no vision of this being a job. I had no idea that this
the prime minister, because he’s so important because he’s is where I’d end up.”
so rare,” she says. “He has his own mobile phone number,
he’s that important.” Leila started out photographing budgerigars purely for herself.
After showing an industry mate one of her shots, her work made
Leila set up her gear in Sirocco’s breakfast room (he eats it into a group exhibition. The work sold, so Leila did a few more
brekkie at night) and waited for his royal highness to appear. group exhibitions until she finally held her first solo show in
“Everything was on his terms,” Leila says. “I was so nervous 2010. Art is now her full-time gig, and her style of work has been
because I really wanted to get the portrait and it was a huge imitated everywhere. “If you look around now, you’ll find my style
cost for me to travel to New Zealand to photograph a subject in Kmart – it’s been ripped off and copied so many times that
that might decide not to be photographed. He walked through people don’t even know that this is where it started,” she says.
the door, took one look at me and all the equipment and he
turned around and walked straight out.” “But I didn’t study art, it wasn’t a career choice. It’s an example of
doing what you love rather than trying to strategically think about
Luckily, Sirocco returned once he heard his carer and Leila what you might get out of it. You just do it because you love it and
laughing. He waltzed up to his perch and began to eat, giving Leila it brings you joy, and then it seems to somehow lead into more
the opportunity to get her shot. “At the end of it, he was on my arm. beautiful things.”
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Illustrations taken from 87 Kitchen Inspirations, nla.gov.au/nla.obj-3073112610
frankie x trove
best before
CUTE AND KOOKY RECIPES FROM VINTAGE
AUSTRALIAN COOKBOOKS.
Words Emily Naismith
Listening to old records? Undeniably cool. Wearing vintage-fashion INGREDIENT BINGO Heads up – lots of vintage recipes call
finds from an op shop? Also cool. Well, raise the needle on your for “shortening” (even salad dressings because olive oil was
record player and straighten up your thrifted ’70s shift dress, not available at regular supermarkets). If you’re baking, you
because it’s time that vintage recipes have their moment to shine. can sub in butter because who has ever even seen shortening
Just think about it – your nanna never put a stocking-clad foot at the shops? If you’re looking to make the gorgeous Russian
wrong when it came to cake or biscuits! Now you can follow in her Cream Cake from 87 Kitchen Inspirations you’re going to need
footsteps by literally reading the same cookbooks she did thanks to cochineal to make the icing pink. What is that? Just ground up
the slew of digitised cookbooks from yesteryear available on Trove. bugs! (Don’t worry, you can use pink food colouring.) There’s a
pretty creative ‘coffee’ recipe made with home-roasted grains
Here are our top tips for navigating your way through for those days when you need a pick-me-up 1930s-style. Yes, it
vintage cookbooks. contains more bran than your usual flat white but coffee was
super expensive back in the day and if the cost-of-living crisis
LOOSEN UP Never grated pineapple? Unsure of the physics of it? is getting you down, Cereal Coffee could be the answer.
Same! But quite a few recipes in the cute 1938 cookbook 87 Kitchen
Inspirations call for it, so your box grater will become acquainted with TASTING HISTORY Cooking the Chinese Way was the first
this tropical fruit soon enough. Both the Golden Pineapple Pie and cookbook written by a Chinese person published in Australia.
Pineapple Sponge actually sound delicious, and if you’re feeling more It’s since had eight different editions, but you can go back to
adventurous, perhaps the Pineapple Mince Pie will appeal? Despite that first 1948 edition on Trove for dishes such as roast duck
appearances, we’re not talking mince meat (although it’s always and beancurd soup. Not going to lie – there’s a whole heap of
worth checking vintage recipes for errant ham or corned beef if that’s problematic oversights (the book was written with help from
not your thing), it’s more of a mixed-fruit style mince pie, but with a an unnamed “expert Chinese chef”) and filled with quotes we’d
tropical flavour because it’s the 1930s and we’re going a little wild. understand as containing racial prejudice today, but the tone
reflects the period in which the cookbook was written and it’s
NEW SLANG “I’ll bring some Gobbles to your place.” You what now? an interesting slice of history nonetheless. In the ‘foreign food’
One fun reason to explore vintage recipes is to learn some new (OK, chapter of The Women’s Mirror cookbook, you’ll find Keftedes
outdated) terminology. Gobbles are cornflake biscuits with a hint (Greek meatballs), Persian Chicken and German Potato Cakes
of ginger. By the way, “coconut” is now “cocoanut”. The spare letter which were contributed by “representatives of foreign nations
dropped off sometime in the past century but we can bring it back! resident in Australia”.
SURPRISE RESULTS A lot of vintage recipe books don’t have a photo JIGGLE IT Jelly must have been the hot new thing in the 1930s
of the final dish, let alone step-by-step pictures of what to do. But we because these cookbooks couldn’t get enough of it. The Lawn
can embrace this uncertainty. Sometimes, you don’t know if you’re Party Dessert seems to be two kinds of jelly served with tinned
cooking a scone-type thing or a biscuit-type situation, especially when peaches, which looks cute and seems relatively inoffensive
the recipe is helpfully titled Witches Rolls from 1940s cookbook taste-wise. We then move onto Sunset Salad, where grated
Let’s Enjoy Baking (which is a direct threat, by the way). But… roll carrot is served inside lemon jelly and concerningly garnished
with it? Imagine how fun it’d be for each of your friends to pick a with mayo and lettuce. The final jelly frontier appears to be
baffling recipe from the same book, cook it and bring it to a party as a Corned Beef Loaf which combines the savoury corned beef,
(hopefully) delicious but if not entertaining mystery dish. On occasion, onion and mustard with the very un-savoury lemon jelly crystals
an illustration of the dish is provided but you’re still no closer to and serves this gelatinous mess adorned with hard-boiled
understanding what it is (see Tavern Tasties). egg and tomato. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.
This article was produced in partnership with Trove, an online resource brimming with vintage
recipes run by the National Library of Australia in collaboration with hundreds of Trove Partner
organisations. Bring the past to life and find your next culinary adventure at trove.nla.gov.au
119
something to say
mind maps I scroll through accommodation options with eager impatience, chasing
the thrill of the booking system in places that boast more animals
than people. I build my days around my interests from all stages of
PHOEBE THORBURN FINDS A QUIET life, leaning in to those which have grown dusty and neglected. Flower
THRILL IN TRAVELLING ALONE. farms, vintage sheds, berry picking, art spaces, lookouts and good food
may sound like the ingredients of a seniors’ trip to some, but to me
they form part of the perfect program. Everything begins to click into
place and the precious wait for what will be begins.
Much has been said about grand international solo adventures
but little about trips – undertaken as one – that are humbly low- Getting on the freeway with only my audiobook and the friendly
key in travel time, location and itinerary. Accessible changes of Irish-accented Maps navigator for company, any last reservations
scene that put a pep in your step and recharge your spirit. melt away. “Of course this is worth it!” my brain proclaims. For
this leap of faith requires you to relinquish control, but in doing so,
When it comes to travel, I’m not exactly an adventurous person. points out patterns and proclivities which were perhaps holding
As someone who is happiest among the creature comforts of home, you back. It asks you to loosen your grip on your commitment to
I can struggle to see the point of submitting myself to umpteen the everyday and embrace the possibilities in something different.
unknown variables. I’m deeply suspicious of those whose entire
personality revolves around travel. What landscapes (situational Once there I dart around finding more hours in the day, not limited
and psychological) are they running from? Surely, those who can by others’ waxing moods or differing preferences. I get to follow my
put up with the nitty-gritty of life and sit with the discomfort of their wants and whims uninterrupted – giving weight to modest internal
character are the ones who have it all figured out? Though perhaps decisions. My brain is dunked in new overheards, sights, smells
just as worthy of gentle investigation is whether my personality and sounds, reminding me of our freeing insignificance and
is largely tethered to my home address. unique value, before the journey home.
I’ve been learning to strike a balance. I had a travel-rich childhood How enriching and emboldening solo travel can be. It’s an exercise in
but it hadn’t been a priority of my 20s until recently. I’ve struggled trusting your own micro-decisions and seeing the dividends of taking
to invest in myself that way, not sure I could trust myself to live in time for yourself. It’s an invitation to shift the lens through which
the present. If the stakes of enjoyment are resting on my shoulders, you see the world, question how well you know yourself and foster
who’s to say I won’t spoil the entire thing? respect for your limits. It forces you to see yourself for who you
really are, because not to would spoil the adventure ahead.
But on the few occasions when circumstances have aligned, the
patchwork task of assembling an itinerary has rekindled something One day these small trips may become launch pads for something
within. The kind of life-affirming wiggle in your stomach that you more ambitious, but on their own their gentle objective is
know will lead to something good. simultaneously justified and everything I could want.
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the pastel port
adelaide-based photographer bri
hammond spotted the old port in doha,
qatar, from her hotel window.
AS TOLD TO SHANNON JENKINS
around the world
We went to Doha for a stopover flight to Scotland in August 2023.
My partner's from Scotland, so we were flying over to visit his
family. We didn’t know how a long-haul flight would go with our
toddler, so we booked an actual stopover where we would leave
the airport for 24 hours and get a hotel. I was excited because
I’d never been outside of the airport in Qatar before and thought,
“Maybe I’ll see another country that I wouldn’t really ever choose
to visit.” I twisted my ankle the night before we left, so I was on
crutches and it was just so hot, so we didn’t want to leave the
hotel. But we did go up onto the rooftop where I could see this sort
of pastel dream. It was this port zone – a little island connected to
the mainland by bridge – and I was like, “What is that area? I need
to go there and do a photo series.” We bookmarked it for on our
way back. That’s how we found this spot.
The Mina District is Doha’s old port, and it has recently been
developed into a colourful tourist attraction. It houses a large port
for cruise ships, a fish market and various shops, restaurants and
hotels. I don’t know if it was just the weather or the time of year,
but the streets were dead while I was there. It was all very clean
– there was no graffiti or rubbish anywhere. But at the same time,
it was all very manmade. It’s in a desert, so it’s a bit odd when you
see a patch of grass or a plant. You’re like, “How did that survive
in this heat?” And it was all so uniform. The colours of the buildings
were different, but on each building there was the same light, the
same surveillance cameras, the same speakers. I’m not sure if it
was the empty streets or the cameras everywhere, but it gave me a
strange uneasy feeling, like I was in The Truman Show or something.
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in close to 50-degree heat, but this was really unlike any heat
I’d felt before. It was dry heat – like being in an oven. I thought
there was something happening with my eyesight, that I was just
sweating and couldn’t actually see what I was photographing.
But then I checked inside my camera and the lens had completely
fogged up. So I’d wipe it and then five minutes later it would fog
up again. I was like, “Maybe this will look cool.” So I just ran with
it, and you can kind of see this progression in the photos – they
get foggier, foggier, foggier, clear, foggier.
I went to the port purely to take photos, and it was only about
half an hour of that before I got told to stop. A security guard
started following me around in a little golf buggy kind of vehicle,
and I thought, “I will just ignore it and keep doing what I’m doing,
but I’m aware that there are people watching me walking around.”
I didn’t want to start hiding or running away from them because
then it would’ve been like, “Well, you know you’re doing something
wrong.” And I didn’t know I was doing anything wrong. I didn’t
think that taking photos in a public place outdoors could possibly
be illegal. I should have looked into that but it didn’t cross my
mind. Eventually, they had seen enough to then pull over and
yell out to me. They told me, “You can’t take photos here.” The
law apparently is that you can take photos with your phone, but
you need special permissions to walk around with a professional
camera. It seems silly because phones are as good as professional
cameras these days and are a lot more subtle. I’ve since looked
into it, and actually there are a few districts – particular tourist
spots – where photography is allowed, and this was one of them.
So I wasn’t doing anything wrong, but at the time I freaked out.
The only person I talked to while I was there was that security
guard. And once I realised there was no real threat, we had a
good old chat about life in Australia.
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around the world
Photo @great.white.chark Model @tessafleurmusic
looks we like
What’s the story behind your collection, The Scarecrow? imagery like vintage burlesque costumes, herbals and arthouse
The Scarecrow is centred on the poppy motif, specifically the films provides me with endless inspiration.
mythology surrounding its hypnotic attributes. This scarecrow
yearns for freedom, while standing in his field of poppies. One day, Why do you utilise traditional textile techniques like the Japanese
within a feverish dream, he comes to life. The shoot follows him as patchwork form boro and appliqué styles of the Middle Ages?
he becomes the farmer he observes each day. I wanted to feminise I think it’s important to spotlight these techniques and the miracles
and soften this misunderstood creature by creating a mask with that our hands can achieve. In an age tantalised by technology,
lace doilies and pearl embellishment. it feels revolutionary to connect to generations of women through
the crafts they once explored. The idea of using past techniques
How did your label begin? Rosaleen bloomed out of my devotion to to weave future heirlooms has always excited me.
appliqué and my concerns about climate change. The label celebrates
nature’s beauty while highlighting the importance of slow fashion. Are you a history buff? I wouldn’t call myself a history buff per se,
but I am fascinated with folklore and mythology. My interests lie
While brainstorming brand names, I came across The Witch of where the history of fashion is married with opulent costuming,
Kings Cross, Rosaleen Norton. I was in awe of her ability to live be it in film, musicals or the ballet. European fashion between
fiercely and authentically during such a tumultuous time for women. the 16th and 18th centuries is a sweet spot; corsets, ornamental
She was an eccentric character who embodied ecofeminist values. headdresses, embellished gloves – each period has its own unique
If I’m ever questioning if a design is too far-fetched or costume-y, sense of extravagance.
I ask myself, “What would Rosaleen do?” and I think she would
do whatever she wanted. What was the first garment you ever made? In grade 10 I made a
wearable art piece inspired by the faun from Pan’s Labyrinth. I coiled
Describe the aesthetic of your garments. Botanic lore, Australian rope into horns and a bodice to mimic the rings on a tree’s surface.
gothic, bush-witch chic. I dyed and shredded fabric to construct pants that resembled
a goat’s hind legs.
What’s your favourite part of the design process? I like to select
my flowers of interest and build a story around them to inform Where can we see more of your work? On my website
the colours and silhouette for the product. I design for characters rosaleen.com.au. The world of Rosaleen is chronicled on my
as opposed to a market demographic. It feels less restrictive and Instagram @r0sal3en. I currently stock a selection of work
there’s more opportunity to be playful and creative. Looking at at Practice Studio in Brisbane.
127
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