Matilda’s Meadow

Mini Uggs with Rib Cuffs

Size: Extra-Small: 3-6 months 3 ¾” (10cms); Small: 6- 12 months 4 ¼” (11cms); Medium: 12-18 months 4 ¾” (12cms);
Large: 18-24 months 5” (13cm) .
Instructions for sizes Small, Medium and Large sizes are given in [ ...] brackets.

©matildasmeadow 2016
MATERIALS
Soles: approx 40-50yds (36 - 40mts) worsted (10 ply) yarn. Pure wool or wool alpaca mix are best.
Uppers: approx 60 [64, 68]yds (58, [60, 64]mts) of worsted (aran) yarn (10 ply) in main colour.
! Booties tend to be best worked with a tight tension. If you are a very loose crocheter you might be best
using a DK yarn instead of worsted.
For both soles and uppers I used Drops Garn Studio Nepal 65% wool, 35% alpaca, 50g = 82yds (75 mts).
Cuffs: approx 85yds (80mts) ultra-light fluffy worsted yarn.
For the Cuffs I used Rowan Creative Focus Worsted, 75% wool, 25% alpaca, 100g 200mts (219yds).
Finishing: 2.5mts (3yds) contrast yarn for laces and embroidered Tree of Life motif at front.
1 x 3.5mm crochet hook (US E/4) for soles and uppers.
1 x 4mm crochet hook for cuffs (US G/6).
1 x blunt-end yarn or tapestry sewing needle to tidy away ends.
Gauge/Tension
(Working in single crochet) 5sts x 5 rows = 1”x 1” square (2.54 x 2.54cmscms)
! Please note that the gauge is important if you want to achieve the correct size. For best results work a
test square in single crochet before you begin. If there are more than 5sts to one inch use a larger hook, if
less, use a smaller hook.
Pattern Instructions
(Please refer to Pattern abbreviation index on last
page).

SOLES (make 4):

Sizes: 0-3 months, [3-6 months, 6-12 months,

12-18 months]. Photos relate to size 3-6 months.

(Worked in rounds – do not join at end of round but

place stitch marker after last st – a piece of colored
yarn works best).

Using worsted yarn and a 3.5mm hook -

Round 1: ch9, [10, 12, 14], 1sc in 2ndch from

hook, 1sc in next 6, [7, 9, 11]ch, 4sc in last chain,
then work up second side of chain – 1 sc in next
6, [7, 9, 11]ch, 4sc in last ch. Place stitch marker.
21, [23, 27, 31]sts.

Round 2: 1sc in next 5, [6, 7, 7]sts, 1hdc in next

1, [1, 1, 2]sts, 1DC in next 1, [1, 2, 3]sts, 2dc in
next 4sts, 1DC in next 0, [0, 1, 2]sts, 1hdc in next
1, [1, 1, 2]sts, 1sc in next 5, [6, 7, 7]sts, 2sc in next 2
4sts. Place stitch marker.
29, [31, 35, 39]sts.

Round 3: 1 sc in next 6, [6, 7, 7]sts, 1hdc in next

2, [2, 2, 3]sts, 1DC in next 0, [0, 1 ,2]sts, 2hdc in
next 1, [1, 0, 0] sts, 2DC in next 5, [6, 8, 8]sts,
2hdc in next 1, [1, 0, 0]sts, 1DC in next 0, [0, 1,
3]sts, 1hdc in next 3, [9, 10, 10]sts, 1sc in next 5,
[0,0, 0]sts, (2sc in next st, 1sc in next st)3 times.
Place stitch marker.
39, [42, 47, 50]sts.

Round 4: 1sc, 1sc, [1sc, 1hdc] in 11, [11, 13,

15]sts, (2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2sts) 3, [4, 4, 4]
times, 1sc in next 12, [12, 14, 16]sts, 2sc in next
st, 1sc in next 3sts, 2sc in next st,
1sc in next st, 1sl st in last st and fasten off.
44, [48, 52, 56]sts.
Joining sole pieces (working the joining row).
Place 2 sole pieces together right sides facing out. Insert hook in any st of last row and through
corresponding stitch on last row of 2nd piece. Draw up a loop, insert hook in next st and through
corresponding st of 2nd piece, draw up a second loop, pass first loop over (to work 1sl st).
Continue in this way, slip-stitching both pieces together by working through each st until you reach the first
st again (be careful to match both pieces stitch-for-stitch so that you have 44, [48, 52, 56]sts on the joining
row.

For a seamless join, cut yarn and pull through st loop, thread yarn through a blunt end needle and pass
under the stitch in front, then back through the centre of the last st to the back of the sole and tidy ends
away:-

Continued on next page...

Uppers (work 2)
Worked in rounds – join with a slip st in First Stitch - IGNORE joining st and ch of previous rounds.
Using a 3.5mm hook (US E/4) -

To Begin: Take sole - insert hook and join yarn in BL of st to left of center back.

*I use this method for beginning a row of single crochet: Attach yarn to hook, insert hook in BL of stitch to
right of CB, yarn over hook and pull through st loop, yarn over hook and pull through both loops ( 1sc).

Row 1: (Work in back loops of stitches of sole joining row) join at stitch to left of CB, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in
each st to end of round, join in 1st st with a slip st (here after written as ‘join’). 44, 48, [52, 56]sts.

Joining in the first stitch of the round – IGNORE the joining st and ch1, work 1st st of next round in same st
as joining st. Continued on the next page...
Rows 2 and 3: 1ch, 1sc in first st, 1sc in each st to end of round. 44, 48, [52, 56]sts.

For Size 1 (3-6 months): OMIT ROW 3.

Row 4: ch1, 1sc in next 12, [14, 16, 18], (sc2tog, 1sc in next st) 7 times, 1sc in next 11,[13, 15, 17], join.
37, [41, 45, 49] sts.

Row 5: ch1, 1sc in next 12, [14, 16, 18], (sc2tog, 1sc in next st) 5 times, 1sc in next 10, [12, 14, 16)], join. 32,
[36, 40, 44] sts.

Row 6: ch1, 1sc in next 10, [12, 14, 16], hdc2tog twice, DC2tog 3 times, hdc2tog twice, 1sc in next 8, [10,
12, 14], join. 25, [29, 33, 37]sts. Continued on next page...
Row 7: 1ch, 1sc in next 2sts, sc2tog, 1sc in next 6, [8, 10, 12], hdc2tog, 1DC in next 3sts (work into the
‘stems’ of the hdc decreases on the previous row – see below*), hdc2tog, 1sc in next 6, [8, 10, 12], sc2tog,
join. 21, [25, 29, 33] sts.

*To work into the ‘stems’ of the decreases of the previous row, go past the st loops and insert the hook
down through the centre of the decreases below the stitch loops. (This helps to close the holes that
would otherwise form between the DC decreases).

Row 8:-

Sizes 1 and 2 only: 1sc in each st, join and Fasten off. 21, [25]sts. 6

Sizes 3 and 4 only: 1sc in next 14, [16]sts, hdc2tog twice, 1sc in next 11, [13]sts, join and fasten off. 27,
[31]sts.

Continued on next page...

Ankle Cuffs (make 2) Using a 4mm Hook (US G/6) –
Row 1: ch19, 20, [21, 23], 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in each ch to end. 18, 19, [20, 22]sts.

Work in BL only of each st on every row:-

Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a st), 1hdc in 1st st, 1hdc in each st to end of row. 18, 19, [20, 22]sts.

Repeat Row 2 - 18, [20, 20, 22] times, to work a total of 20, [22, 22, 24] rows. Fasten off. Mark the centre
with a pin. (note that for sizes 1, 2 and 3, the centre will be in the trough between two ribs and for size 4, it
will be on a rib - as in photo).

Tree of Life Motif 7

To embroider the Tree of Life motif:- thread a blunt end yarn needle with contrast yarn. Knot the end and
insert the needle through the centre of the cuff, 3sts in from the lower edge. Follow the photo sequence
below from left to right, taking care not to pull on the yarn too tightly at any point.

Continued on the next page...

At the end, work a couple of re-enforcing stitches at the back before fastening off.

Fold the cuff in half so that the wrong side faces out and the cast-on edge and last row are both aligned.
Work 1sc through the first stitches of both edges, then 1sc through both edges for the next 7, [8, 9, 10]sts
to join (less than half way). Fasten off and tidy ends away neatly.

Continued on next page...

Assembly
Mark CF of cuff and CF and CB of bootie ankle edge by folding in half. Insert the cuff into the bootie and pin
the closed edge to the inside of the bootie edge - align the CF and joining seam of cuff with CF and CB of
bootie. Note that because the cuff edge is wider than the edge of the bootie you’ll need to stretch the
bootie edge a little as you sew. Top-sew around the edge of the bootie, working one stitch in each stitch all
round, easing in the surplus fabric of the cuff as you go.

Laces (make 2)
Add some little laces to make sure that the booties can’t be kicked off easily! Ch80 to make a chain approx
16” (40cms), leaving a couple of inches of yarn at each end. Cut a piece of contrast yarn the same length
(18”), then using a yarn needle, thread the contrast yarn through the chain by inserting the needle back
and forth through the nub of each stitch along the chain (at the back of the chain – as in 1st photo below).
When finished knot both ends and trim with a sharp scissors. Beginning at the heel thread the cord
through the cuff, just above the joining seam, by pushing the knot through gaps between stitches, working
in and out at approx every second row. Make sure that the laces emerge to the outside either side of the
back seam of the cuff. (see photo on next page).

continued on the next page...

Fold the cuff over so that the edges are aligned with the sole. Thread the laces through the turnover of the
cuff to the outside, going through the stitches of the 2nd row from each edge, pull and tie in a bow.

Finishing Round (between upper and sole):- For that authentic ‘Ugg’ look, add a row of sl sts around the
perimeter of the sole. Using the 3.5mm crochet hook, insert through both layers of the sole at any stitch
towards the heel on the right hand side, inserting the hook right next to the sts of the 1 st row of the upper.
Using the same yarn as that used for the cuff, draw up a loop, insert hook through next st and draw up a
secton loop, pass first loop over second (to work 1sl st), continue working in this way, as for the sole
joining round, to work over the sole joining round all the way around the edge of the upper. To finish, use
same joining method between beginning and end of the round as that for sole joining round on p.3 above.

10

You might like to add a few stitches at the back towards the heel to hold the cuffs in position, by sewing
through the points of the cuff and the stitches of the joining round of the sole either side of CB. This will
keep the cuffs in place and give the booties a nice, trendy slouchy look.
 11

©matildasmeadow 2014

To shape the booties, take some cotton wool or synthetic wadding (the type used for stuffing toys).
Dampen it and stuff the booties with it so that they are in a nice shape (round out the toe). Leave until dry
then wear with pride!

Thanks so much for your interest in my work and I hope that you enjoyed following the Mini Uggs Pattern.
Do come back to Matilda’s Meadow soon to try another unique design, and don’t forget to use discount
code WELCOME10 for a 10% discount on your next purchase!

Very best wishes,

Caroline

Copyright notice: Please note that this pattern is entirely my own creation and the product of
many hours of hard work and effort on my part. As such, it is protected by international
copyright law, which means that it may not be sold, distributed, copied or adjusted in whole or
in part, and in any form or shape. I am happy for you to sell items made from my patterns but
please do not use my images or my pattern text.
www.etsy.com/uk/shop/matildasmeadow
 Matilda’s Meadow
Crochet Abbreviations
www.etsy.com/shop/matildasmeadow

BL – back loop
CB – center back
CF – center front
ch – chain
DC – double crochet (UK treble crochet, tr)
dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together (UK treble crochet 2 stitches together, tr2tog).
FL – front loop
hdc – half double crochet (UK half treble crochet, htr)
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together.
sc – single crochet (UK double crochet, dc)
12
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together. (UK double crochet 2 stitches together, DC2tog).
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch (stitches)

(..) – Instructions in parentheses are to be repeated by the number of times specified immediately after
– e.g., (DC1, sc1) 3 times, means Double crochet one stitch and single crochet the next stitch 3 times to
work a total of 6 stitches.

©matildasmeadow 2014