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 November/December 2024

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in Beauty

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Untitled-1 2 10/14/24 11:41 AM

 Contents | C&T
November/December 2024 |
Volume 139, number 10

6 Editor’s Note
Brushing Up on Oral Health and Body Care Innovation

8 Industry Insight
Making Heads or Tails of the Thriving
All-body Deodorant Market

48 Ad Index

Market Intelligence

44
10 Product Roundup

142025 Beauty Ingredient Trend Preview:

What’s Next?
From silk-derived biotech to microbiome sexual
wellness and beyond, new ingredients point to future
innovation opportunities.
J. Gleason-Allured

DM10 [podcast] ‘Sun Care 101’ in

Just 12 Min: Mineral vs. Organic,
Particle Size, Rheology, pH and More
Sponsored by BASF Corp.

16Expert Opinions:
Digital Tech in Beauty
Ingredient Discovery, Early Trend Spotting,
Personalization, Digital Collabs, Molecular Design
and More

7
18Next In Skin
Changing Perspectives on ‘Anti-aging’
K. Steventon, Ph.D.

22
222025 C&T Allē Award Sneak Preview
Celebrating Beauty Innovation

Regulatory
24 European Regulatory Update
Cosmetic Ingredient Changes
Coming in 2025-2026
by Emma Meredith, Ph.D.

ON THE COVER
Image by Liubov Levytska at Adobe Stock

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

CT2411_12_TOC_Masthead_DM.indd 2 10/21/24 4:47 PM

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 Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

EDITORIAL

3034
Content Director Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/[email protected]
Editor in Chief Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/[email protected]
Managing Scientific Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/[email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/[email protected]
DM21 [digital roundtable] Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/[email protected]
MoCRA in Action: Current Status, Advertising Production/
Pitfalls and New Insights, Part I Business Intelligence Specialist Ethan Grisham | 1-630-344-6039/[email protected]

Sponsored by NSF
SOCIAL MEDIA
Social Media Manager
Emmanuel Henderson | 1-630-344-6020/[email protected]

Research AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT

30
Generative AI, Zero-party Data, Audience Development Manager Sam Attebery | 1-630-344-6027/[email protected]
Omnichannel Experiences and More Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/[email protected]
Drivers and Trends for Digital Tech in Beauty
DESIGN
by R. Grabenhofer
Assistant Design Manager James Fergus
Digital Production Specialist Kyle Torain
DM27 Lifestyle Integration, Body Skin AI,
Gamification, Data Security and More CORPORATE
Digital Tech to Move Beauty Forward Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
by R. Grabenhofer
Director of Events Christine Meehan
Marketing & Creative Director Kim Fry
34 Ingredient Profile Digital Products Director Rose Southard

Lanolin and Plant-Based Alternatives for

Natural Moisturization
by K.A. Dobos OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Beauty Accelerate Face & Body Skin Care Show
40
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S. Hominis and Axillary Malodor Global Cosmetic Industry magazine MedEsthetics magazine
Perfumer & Flavorist+ magazine Nailpro magazine
– As Shown by Meta Sequencing and Culturomics Flavorcon Nailpro Show
by L. Verzeaux, Ph.D., et al. World Perfumery Congress
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From the Vault: Oral Care Refresh carry the endorsement of the publisher.

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Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.

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CT22_ad_template.indd 2 8/13/24 10:51 AM
 Editor’s Note | C&T

BRUSHING UP ON ORAL HEALTH AND

BODY CARE INNOVATION Rachel L. Grabenhofer, ELS
Managing Scientific Editor
[email protected]

Scientific Advisory Board

Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc, Ph.D.,

PharmD., L’Oréal R&I

Jean-Christophe Choulot, Pharm.D.

Caudalíe
Beauty consumers are in wellness and prevention mode. They are hyper-
Kelly Dobos
focused on controlling their exposures, diets and behaviors and as such, seek Consultant and Professor, Univ. of Cincinnati
holistic approaches to aesthetics and care. They also are taking a step back and,
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
in addition to face, hair and scalp concerns, bringing the whole body into view. Dermatology Consulting Services
In fact, body care is a market segment that continues to climb. Allure spelled
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.,
it out in the recent headline:1 “In Case You Missed It, Body Care is Booming.” Haleon (formerly GSK)
Circana data agrees; in the first half of 2024, body care was the fastest-growing Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
segment (+25%) within the prestige category, led by body sprays, then larger TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
volume creams, lotions and cleansers.2 Linda C. Foltis
Oral care, controlling a major entry point into the body, is another focus for Consultant (formerly Function of Beauty)
consumers. Fact.MR projects this market will expand at a CAGR of 4.2% from S. Peter Foltis, Pharm.D., Consultant
2024-2034.3 Notably, oral care, taking inspiration from skin care, is moving
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
beyond hygiene to become an integral part of consumers’ wellness routines.4 Mindy S. Goldstein Ph.D. Consulting
While these two areas — oral and body care — have traditionally been in the
Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., Burt’s Bees
periphery of beauty, they are making their way front and center; and onto the
pages of C&T’s latest issue. John Jiménez, Pharm.D.
Belcorp Colombia
Lionetti and Deola, for example, on Page 44, provide guidance and ideas for
Emma Kohring, Kenvue
formulating oral health products including toothpaste and mouthwash. Experts
from Hume Supernatural and Procter & Gamble, on Page 8, explore the market Karl Laden, Ph.D., Alpa Cosmetics
of whole-body deodorants, along with formulating considerations. Dobos, on Danilo Lambino, Formulae8
Page 34, revisits lanolin and plant-based alternatives to imbue body care with
Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
deep moisturizing benefits. And Verzeaux, et al., on Page 40, take a microbiome University of California, San Francisco
approach to controlling axillary malodor.
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D., AbbVie
Digital technology is another a top priority for consumers. It pervades
everyday life for most of us, evolving constantly in the very palms of our hands. Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D., Procter & Gamble
To delve deeper into its utility for beauty, we feature a two-part interview, Marc Pissavini, Ph.D., Coty-Lancaster
starting on Page 30, with tech experts who discuss trends, drivers, challenges
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
and opportunities. Aligned with this, in our Expert Opinions piece on Page 16, Industrial Consulting Research
industry insiders also give their take on tech in beauty.
Steve Schnittger, Ph.D.
Steventon, on Page 18, brings the term anti-aging into the spotlight to Consultant (formerly the Estée Lauder Cos.)
consider how it is changing. Meredith, on Page 24, looks ahead to regulatory
Ron Sharpe, Amway
changes in ingredients in the EU/UK in 2025-2026. And, we’re excited to share a
sneak peek at entries we’ve received for the 2025 C&T Allē Awards on Page 22. Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D., La Perla Beauty
Image by wayhome.studio at Adobe Stock

We hope this issue helps you brush up on ideas for oral health and body care, Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.
and inspires ideas for future products. Skincare Consultancy Ltd.

Akshay Talati, Pharm.D., Goop

References Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Cos.
1. https://www.allure.com/story/body-care-trends-2024
Debbie Waite, Steinberg & Associates
2. https://www.circana.com/intelligence/press-releases/2024/
us-prestige-beauty-industry-sales-grow-by-8-in-the-first-half-circana-reports/ Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D., Coty, Inc.
3. https://www.factmr.com/report/68/oral-hygiene-market
Tao Zheng, Ph.D., The Estée Lauder Cos.
4. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas-products/oral-care/article/22911648

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

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Untitled-1 2 10/14/24 11:35 AM
 Industry Insight | C&T

MAKING HEADS OR TAILS

OF THE THRIVING
ALL-BODY DEODORANT MARKET
“Whole-body deodorants are trending in the U.S.,” a
recent Forbes headline proclaimed.1 “In 2018, Lume
launched a series of products designed for ‘pits, privates
and beyond.’ … This spring [2024], legacy brands jumped
on board. Since the start of this year, Secret, Dove, Old
Spice and Native have launched whole-body deodor-
ants which consumers can apply as sticks, sprays and
creams,” Forbes added.
It’s true. Google Trends shows that searches related
to whole body deodorants, including Dove, Old Spice,
SheaMoisture, Lume, Secret and others, more than
quadrupled from January 21 to February 17, 2024.2
To help us make heads or tails (or armpits) of the thriving
body deodorant market, we turned to Melissa Christenson
(MC), co-founder and head of product development for
Hume Supernatural All Body Deodorant, and
Maiysha Jones, Ph.D. (MJ), principal scientist for
Procter & Gamble (P&G) personal care.

C&T: How big is the market opportunity for

whole-body deodorants? What trends have emerged in
this space?

MC: Experiencing body odor in places other than the

armpits is nothing new, so with the emergence of a variety
of new whole-body deodorant options that address this
issue, paired with high consumer demand for modern ing statement regarding sun exposure on products
aluminum-free deodorants, there is no doubt that the containing AHAs.3
category will continue to grow, and that this segment will MJ: P&G spent two years developing our
become a permanent addition to retailer sets and consumer whole-body deodorants before launching in Janu-
self-care routines. ary 2023. While we have decades of consumer
Many of the whole-body deodorants on the market are research and deep expertise in the antiperspirant
water-based lotions or creams that leverage alpha hydroxy and deodorant category, whole-body deodorant
acids (AHAs) like mandelic or lactic acid to reduce bacteria is a relatively new market segment. Whole body
on the skin, and in turn reduce body odor. There are also deodorants are designed for the nearly 50% of
traditional solid stick formulations that leverage the same consumers who are concerned about body odor
AHA formulation approach, while others incorporate specific in areas other than the underarms. The whole
antimicrobials to selectively reduce the microorganisms on body deodorant market is based on this unmet
skin that contribute to odor. consumer need.
Image by Stavros (Top), FotoHelin(Middle),

Several new spray formulations have also hit the shelves – Up to 65% of consumers we spoke with shared
these products are typically fast-drying hydro-alcoholic body odor concerns for areas outside the under-
formulations that mainly leverage fragrance to mask odors. arm and further shared compensating behaviors
Vasyl(Bottom) at Adobe Stock

Some may also contain antimicrobials in addition to ethanol such as using wipes, powders, extra cologne,
to reduce the presence of bacteria on the skin. wearing extra layers of clothing or even avoiding
While the industry appears to be leaning into AHA-con- close proximity to others in an effort to mask
taining whole-body deodorants, there is some concern that odor. We believe that consumers should have a full
AHAs can compromise the skin barrier function or cause spectrum of options for everywhere they choose to
sensitivity for some people. In fact, the FDA requires a warn- protect against odor.

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

CT2411_12_Industry_Insight_DM.indd 8 10/21/24 4:55 PM

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*HRPXOVH$GBYLQGG ɐDP
 Industry Insight | C&T

People are looking for options to apply how approach I took in formulating the Hume
they want, where they want. Supernatural All Body Deodorant was very

C&T:
different. The waterless balm formulation is
How does P&G approach deodor- free from AHAs and aluminum. It is designed
ants and antiperspirants? And what’s the to support the skin barrier and in turn the skin
difference? microbiome, with gentle nourishing emollient,
occlusive and prebiotic ingredients.
MJ: Today, we offer sprays, sticks, and creams And unlike whole-body lotions or creams,
for consumers to choose from – depending on a unique sensory advantage of the Hume All
their needs and preferences: Body Deodorant Balm is that it applies to the
• Sticks are the form that consumers felt skin dry with a velvety feel vs. the wet, sticky
most comfortable trying. feel that other whole-body lotions and creams
• Sprays are easy to apply on the deliver. The primary deodorizing ingredient in
whole body. Hume All Body Deodorant is castor oil-derived
• Creams are preferred for zinc ricinoleate, which has no antimicrobial
intimate application. properties, so it doesn’t interfere with the skin’s
All three forms (sticks, sprays and creams) are natural microbiome.

C&T:
formulated with ingredients that fight odor-
causing bacteria at the source. Beyond the form, How and why did the whole-body
consumers can also choose from our brand deodorant market emerge?
portfolio (Native, Secret, Old Spice) to ensure
the product is the right fit for them. MC: The first whole body deodorants on the
...We often get the question on the differ- market were positioned to address odor that
ence between deodorant and antiperspirant. we all experience in places on our bodies other
Antiperspirants have aluminum salt, which are than armpits; in particular, privates. And it
approved by the FDA to help fight sweat. When makes sense, as we know that the hormone-
you apply an antiperspirant, that salt dissolves regulated apocrine glands that are found in the
in the sweat at the surface of your sweat glands, armpit are also mainly found in the anogenital
forming a temporary, shallow plug. That plug area.
significantly reduces the amount of sweat, mak- With many new launches in this whole-body
ing you stay drier for longer. On the other hand, deodorant segment, I think that these products
deodorants do not contain an aluminum active are gaining traction because of the new forms
ingredient, so they don’t fight sweat but they do that make it easier to apply deodorant to
protect against odor. Whole body deodorant is different parts of the body, and also normalize
tested for use in areas outside the underarms. the fact that we all have odor in places other
We are continuing to educate consumers that than our armpits. Now consumers have more
they can switch between an antiperspirant and choices than ever before.
deodorant depending on their needs. To avoid Multifunctional formulations that feature
the feeling of underarm wetness or sweating additional skin benefits, in my opinion, are
through clothes, a consumer may want an anti- the real winners in the whole-body segment
perspirant on more active days. And if someone – delivering consumers with more than just
is taking it slow or isn’t as bothered by sweat, a deodorizing benefits.
deodorant may better suit their needs. What’s Another multifunctional benefit to some
important is that everyone is able to choose the whole-body deodorants is anti-chafing. Most
product that delivers the level of protection when effective are waterless formulations that are
they need it. sweat-resistant and long lasting, with high

C&T:
powder content to absorb moisture and deliver
What is the Hume Supernatural a silky, velvety feel on skin. The Hume All Body
approach to whole-body deodorant? Deodorant is very effective in preventing irrita-
MC: With the goal of developing a formula- tion caused by friction. Megababe also offers
tion that was truly gentle to sensitive skin and an anti-chafe stick, although it doesn’t offer
that supported the skin barrier function, the deodorizing benefits.

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CT2411_12_Industry_Insight_DM.indd 10 10/21/24 4:55 PM

 Industry Insight | C&T

“I think these products are gaining traction because of the new forms that make it easier to apply deodorant to different parts of the body, and also
normalize the fact that we all have odor in places other than our armpits.”

MJ: Research shows that people want odor while the spray allows for hygienic application
protection across the whole body. In a survey on multiple areas. Creams provide the easy of
conducted by P&G, we found that they were application to rub in anywhere on the body for
suffering from high odor in various areas: the most precise applications.

C&T:
• Armpit area
° 78% Females What are the benefits of whole-body
° 70% Males deodorants over typical underarm deodorants?
• Groin area What are the drawbacks?
° 56% Females
° 47% Males MC: While consumers prefer sticks for
• Chest area underarm application, sticks are not ideal for
° 32% Females application to other parts of the body like below
° 22% Males the belt and feet. The need to develop new
• Feet forms for whole body application has opened up
° 29% Females the opportunity for innovation in deodorizing
° 48% Males lotions, creams and balms delivered from tubes,
Body odor is normal and is caused by bacte- jars and sprays.
ria that thrive in our skin folds like under the Whole body deodorants are best applied to
breasts, in the groin area and between toes. clean, dry skin. If water is listed on the ingre-
Showering washes away this odor-causing dients of a product, you can expect that it will
bacteria, but it does not stop them from growing be a bit wet feeling on application, so you will
back, which is why many people resort to short need to let it dry well before getting dressed. For
term fixes like multiple showers, carrying wipes, a dry application, Hume Supernatural All Body
using messy powders or changing clothes. Con- Deodorant is a concentrated, waterless balm for-
sumers are spending time and money on these mula – not only does it absorb into skin instantly,
behaviors that are not addressing odor at the it leaves a velvety finish.
source. Native, Secret and Old Spice Whole Body While whole body deodorants are oftentimes
Deodorants are formulated with ingredients that also designed for use in sensitive areas like
fight odor-causing bacteria at the source. privates, it’s important to remember that usage is
[Notably], body odor is not the same across for external areas only, and that these areas can
all body parts. What an area smells like is be more sensitive than other parts of the body, so
determined by the types of bacteria and sweat fragrance-free is a good choice if below the belt
Image by galitskaya at Adobe Stock

glands at each area. Whole body deodorant helps is the primary area of usage.
fight body odor – at areas like the chest, under MJ: Our whole body deodorant collection is
breast, thighs, feet and even privates – by help- aluminum free and was designed specifically for
ing prevent the growth of bacteria with gentle use on the whole body with skin friendly ingredi-
and skin-friendly ingredients. Additionally, [as ents like glycerin, niacinamide, coconut oil and
mentioned above], different product forms also shea butter for a smooth, clear application expe-
address different needs. The stick deodorant rience. These are ingredients that dermatologists
allows precise application on problem areas, often recommend to be good for the skin barrier.

Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries | DM2

CT2411_12_Industry_Insight_DM.indd 11 10/21/24 4:55 PM

 Industry Insight | C&T

While regular deodorants may also contain skin on sensitive skin and effective against whole
friendly ingredients, they are only designed and body odor.

C&T:
tested for use on armpits.
For example, Native Whole Body Deodorant What new directions will the body
is free of silicones, aluminum, parabens, and deodorant market take? What technologies will
baking soda – designed for the consumer who enable these directions?
wants a clean, simple and effective solution to
body odor. MC: While as noted, the market seems to have

C&T:
leaned into AHA-based lotions, I believe that in
What are the most difficult aspects of time, brands will pivot to alternate technologies
formulating body deodorants? and ingredients that support the skin barrier
function and won’t alter the skin’s natural micro-
MC: The biggest challenge with formulating biome. New research is also helping to identify
whole-body deodorants – or really any type of synergistic ingredient blends that optimize and
deodorant – is delivering long-lasting efficacy target antimicrobial activity so that we can use
while also delivering a desirable application less of these ingredients – both for skin safety
and skin feel, without any negatives like white and minimize the effect on the microbiome.
residue or staining of clothes. With increasing MJ: Our whole body deodorants are made
attention to this fast-growing segment, the good with a nitrogen-propellant spray, which was first
news is that there is more opportunity than launched in the mass market by Native. While
ever before to innovate. Not just brands, but it has been in market for a while, it’s an exciting
ingredient suppliers are also leaning in, with new innovation that we don’t talk about enough.
clinical and in vitro data on existing ingredients, Nitrogen-propellant technology provides the
while also developing new technologies. clean, simple and effective solution consum-
Another challenge is consumer confusion ers are looking for, and can potentially drive
regarding the difference between deodorants significant growth of deodorant sprays. In fact,
and antiperspirants. Antiperspirants are FDA nitrogen-propellant sprays are quieter and more
regulated over-the-counter drugs that con- enjoyable to use than other types of propellants.
tain aluminum salts and work to stop sweat They give a fine mist, which is fast-drying, softer-
by plugging skin pores. These formulations feeling and applies light as air.
also reduce odor through broad-spectrum While sprays are the leading deodorant form
antimicrobial action. in other parts of the world, deodorant sprays are
Deodorants do not include aluminum salts to not yet the most preferred form of U.S. consum-
prevent sweat, so oftentimes these formulations, ers. Interestingly, as we were the first company
whether designed for whole body or primarily to launch whole body deodorant sprays, we’ve
underarm use, will include absorbent powders found that spray is the whole-body deodorant
that help you feel drier longer. Examples of these form shoppers prefer once they try it. Sprays are
superabsorbent materials include diatomaceous also the fastest-growing form among younger
earth, silica, arrowroot powder, tapioca starch consumers, who find them to be refreshing and
and kaolin clay. leave less residue.
MJ: We have spent many years in research and
development to create a whole body deodorant References
that meets consumers’ expectations. Safety is 1. Cohen, J.P. (2024, Jun 4). Suddenly whole-body
at the heart of everything we do and designing deodorants are trending in the U.S. Forbes. https://
a product for use across the whole body was a www.forbes.com/sites/joshuacohen/2024/06/04/
suddenly-whole-body-deodorants-are-trending-in-the-us/
unique challenge. We wanted to provide 72-hr
2. Google Trends. (Accessed 2024, Oct 4). Whole body
clinically proven odor protection and have deodorant search term. Available at https://trends.google.
gentle, skin-friendly ingredients – particularly com/trends/explore?cat=44&q=whole%20body%20
for external use on the private areas. Our sticks deodorant&hl=en
and sprays are made with under 10 ingredients. 3. U.S. FDA. (2005, Jan). Guidance for industry: Labeling for
cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids. Available at
We offer light, modern scents that use less https://www.fda.gov/regulatory-information/search-fda-
fragrance than a regular deodorant. We also guidance-documents/
offer fragrance-free products. All these factors guidance-industry-labeling-cosmetics-containing-alpha-
hydroxy-acids
come together to create a product that is gentle

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your printed magazine?

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 Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Highlighting innovative ingredients, services and products

Bioblanca-1,3-PDO
Anhui Huaheng Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
http://bioblanca.com/
Bioblanca-1,3-PDO (INCI: 1,3-Propanediol) is a multifunctional, Puresterol
high-performance, COSMOS-certified natural solubilizer, humec- Bio-Botanica Inc.
tant, sensory enhancer and preservative booster. The natural origin, https://www.bio-botanica.com/?s=puresterol&post_
high-performance sybio innovation provides a bio-based essential to type=product&dgwt_wcas=1
achieve sustainable, clean beauty and personal care products. Puresterol (INCI: Pueraria Mirifica) acts as an anti-wrinkle agent. It
helps to smooth wrinkled skin, supports healthy hair growth, improves
eye health and supports restful sleep.
Pickmulse
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/our-showroom/
pickmulse
Based on Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant-patented quinoa starch
technology, Pickmulse (INCI: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate) enables
the formulation of natural surfactant-
free and skin-friendly emulsions.
Its evanescent, powdery-soft touch
offers consumers a global sensory
experience proven with neuroscience.
It also brings strong benefits as a
customizable encapsulation system,

Anhui image by Tinka at Adobe Stock; courtesy of the manufacturers

for lipophilic ingredient protection and
sensory enhancement.

Effipulp Adeplump
Laboratoires Expanscience Ichimaru Pharcos
https://www.expanscience-ingredients.com/en/our-active- https://www.ichimaru.co.jp/english/brand/adeplump/
sensorial-ingredients/effipulp Adeplump (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Arnica Mon-
Plump the skin with Effipulp (INCI: Per- tana Flower Extract) is an adipose enhancer for beautiful plumping of
sea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract the skin, obtained from Arnica Montana flower. It is clinically proven
(and) Maltodextrin), a hydrosoluble and to increase skin smoothness, brightness and elasticity; increase
upcycled ingredient rich in natural pep- volume of the face, lips and other parts of the body; and decrease
tides extracted from avocado. Clinically skin wrinkles. The ingredient is COSMOS approved and registered in
proven to boost hyaluronic acid produc- China’s IECIC.
tion, it thickens both the epidermis and
dermis, counteracting skin thinning
due to aging and promoting well-aging
benefits. Additionally, it restores cellular
functions with its detoxifying effect.

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

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 Bakuchiol Ester BCR
Grant Industries
https://www.grantinc.com/
products/215
Bakuchiol Ester BCR (INCI:
Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Glyceryl
Linolenate (and) Bakuchiol Sa-
licylate) is an innovative retinol
alternative complex designed to
transform and rejuvenate skin.
This novel retinoid alternative
JD Lusteris offers a multifaceted approach
Jojoba Desert to skin health through increased
https://www.jojobadesert.com/jd-lusteris-a-multifunction- skin hydration, promotion of cell
al-emollient-with-superior-sensorial-effect/ turnover and antioxidant activity.
JD Lusteris (INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Alcohol (and) Pro-
panediol (and) Tocopherol) is a multifunctional emollient sourced
from jojoba oil, created as a naturally derived alternative to non-
volatile low viscosity silicones. It provides superior sensorial effects
and is ideal for maintaining optimal hydration levels.
Campo Plantservative
Campo Research
https://www.campo-research.com/
With the help of green chemistry and
modern techniques, Campo Plantserva-
tive (INCI: Lonicera Japonica (Honey-
suckle) Flower Extract (and) Lonicera
Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract)
is produced from wildly cropped honey-
suckle without the use of synthetic sub-
stances. Available in both water-soluble
and oil-soluble versions, this functional
ingredient contains phytochemicals with
broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties
against microbes, viruses, fungi, endo-
spores and molds in products.
Lissenare
Nagase Viita
https://group.nagase.com/viita/en/products_solutions/per-
sonal_care_ingredients/details/lissenare/ Hydrosome H2O Ultrafine Bubbles
Users will unlock their ideal hairstyle through Lissenare’s (INCI: Hydro- Hydrosome Labs
lyzed Corn Starch (and) Water (Aqua)) glycoscience. Lissenare revital- www.hydrosomelabs.com
izes hair health by repairing inner damage and enhances styling hold
with flexibility to achieve desired hairstyles. It is a 100% natural, readily Hydrosome Labs seeks to make everyday consumer products better
biodegradable oligosaccharide created by unique enzymatic technology. and more affordable through cleaner and faster delivery of nutrients
and active ingredients using ultrafine bubbles (INCI: Aqua). Applica-
tions include improving the performance of skin care products and
EleVastin increasing the yields of precision fermentations.
Gattefossé
https://www.gattefosse.com/personal-care/product-finder/
elevastin
EleVastin (INCI: Betaine (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol (and)
Murraya Koenigii Stem Extract) is
the targeted solution to gravity-
induced skin sagging. While promot-
ing skin elasticity, this 100% natural
origin active offers an undeniable
support to the skin, submitted to the
daily pressure of gravity. EleVastin
reduces drooping of the lower face.
Facial contours are better defined,
restoring a youthful appearance.

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 2025 Beauty Ingredient Trend Preview:
What’s Next?
From silk-derived biotech to microbiome sexual wellness and beyond,
new ingredients point to future innovation opportunities.

Image by berna_namoglu at Adobe Stock

Image courtesy of Peace Out Skincare

Kojic acid has become increasingly popular, as seen in Peace Out Skincare’s Dark Spots Serum, featuring kojic acid alongside 3% tranexamic acid
and alpha-arbutin.

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this

article is strictly prohibited. © 2024 Allured Business Media.
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 | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, content director, Global Cosmetic Industry

T
his past year in beauty Kojic Acid’s Boom Valtic brand), facial moisturizers
has been defined by Threatened by Regulations and powders.
emerging technologies In addition to the ingredient searches
Kojic acid, itself seen as a
targeting skin flagged by Spate, turmeric is often
skin brightening alternative to
longevity, exosomal paired with kojic acid searches, perhaps
hydroquinone, is facing restricted use
ingredients (check out due to its association with brightening
levels (1%) in face and hand products
our “Beauty 2025” effects as well as its efficacy in
sold the European Union and United
trend report on Page addressing acne-prone skin and skin
Kingdom, effective April 2025.
X for more) and an escalation in aging. Mucin, a generally popular
The restrictions come amid a boom
biotechnology innovation. ingredient from the K-beauty world,
in popularity for the ingredient. In
Looking ahead at 2025, a number of also appears in kojic acid searches.
September 2024, Spate reporteda that
these trends and more will likely shape Brands associated with kojic
kojic acid’s effectiveness in combating
product innovation for years to come. acid include Valtic, as previously
hyperpigmentation could make it
Many of these are evolutions of existing mentioned, alongside Phor Essentials,
“the next big hyperpigmentation-
or emerging ingredients and claims, which produces Turmeric Kojic Acid
fighting trend.”
pointing to a clear trajectory of growth. Exfoliating Cleansing Pads, and Koji
The ingredient is reportedly searched
Highlights include: White’s Kojic Acid Skin Brightening
alongside glycolic acid, mulberry extract
• Minimalist beauty: formulations Body Wash.
(beloved for its low-irritation profile),
that reduce or eliminate elements arbutin and, of course, hydroquinone.
such as water and conventional The rise of interest in kojic acid,
preservation, supported by Meet the Next Generation
paired with impending regulations,
multifunctional ingredients, in could open opportunities for materials
of Peptides
addition to products that do such as soybean extract, niacinamide Google searches for peptides hit
more, offering higher value to and vitamin C, as well as the other an all time high in the autumn of
choosy shoppers. materials previously mentioned. 2024, driven by queries for brands
• Pro inspiration: ingredients that Among the key product formats such as CosRX, which manufactures
mimic professional treatments with appearing in Google searches over the a six-peptide serum, as well as The
less invasive solutions. last 12 months, per Google Trends, Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
• Microbiome opportunities: with are bar soap (popularized by the facial moisturizer, Rhode’s peptide-
rising interest in barrier strength
and sensitive skin solutions,
microbiome balance is increasingly
a focus of product development.
• Clean efficacy: safe, sustainable
ingredients with proven efficacy.
• Biotech: lab-grown innovations
that offer improved or even novel
functions and claims.
• Future-proofing beauty:
technologies that expand claims
from rejuvenation to prejuvenation,
particularly for young consumers
already concerned about the signs
of aging.

This is just a fraction of the themes

Image by berna_namoglu at Adobe Stock

we expect to see in the year to come

(and beyond). Here, we offer a look at
recent launches and challenges and the
innovation opportunities they offer the
beauty industry.

Soluble fibroin, the basis for the two Evolved by Nature peptides discussed in this report, is a silk protein most
www.spate.nyc/beauty
a often produced by insects, including moths.

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 Marketing Intelligence

driven lip and facial moisturizer very simply, a healthy barrier keeps peptide that supports natural collagen
products, and Maelove’s Peptide Squad moisture in your skin and keeps free type 1 production to reduce the
Collagen Renewal Serum. radicals and other environmental appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Interest in peptides has likely only hazards out.” and enhance the elasticity and firm
just begun, with innovation in the She adds, “Everyone has also appearance of the skin, all while
space set to advance with the launch of been talking about peptides, and our boosting the performance of other
new biotech materials. naturally derived peptides do what other ingredients, including vitamin C.
For instance, Evolved by Nature’s ingredients cannot do. Activated Silk The technology can be used in
Activated Silk 33B-a (INCI: Soluble 33B-a turns skin on to perform its own aqueous formulations and is non-
Fibroin) water-soluble barrier peptide skin care — when the peptide interacts irritating and biodegradable.
is designed to reduce the appearance of with the skin, it supports the natural “This peptide is able to interact with
redness in as little as one week, while production of claudin, the foundational skin to support the natural production
also reducing the appearance of fine protein for tight junctions, which is a of type 1 collagen, the foundational
lines and wrinkles, per the company. sign of a healthy barrier.” form of collagen that retinol and
The material works by spurring No slathering with a masking agent, vitamin C need to be effective,” says
the natural production of claudin-1, this is a peptide that empowers skin Svetlana Marukian, VP, R&D, The
which supports the epidermal barrier to bring out its most healthy, youthful Molecule Library, Evolved by Nature.
function, thereby reducing TEWL, per appearance. “So, from one perspective, 27P-a
Evolved by Nature. Another benefit of the company’s outperforms the legacy collagen
Furthermore, because the Natrue naturally derived peptides is that ingredients, but this peptide also
100% natural technology is soluble they are water soluble, which means boosts the effectiveness of those
in water, it can be formulated 33B is stable and effective in so ingredients. And 27P-a has a much
into products that ceramides and many formulations where other higher stability than, say vitamin C,
petrolatum cannot. The ingredient barrier ingredients like ceramides which is vulnerable to oxidation and
is also biodegradable and generated and petrolatum cannot go. Especially other degrading factors under so many
from upcycled materials, according to rinse-off formulations. Hand wash. exposures. And 27P-a is totally gentle
the company. Face wash. Body wash. You rinse the and safe for use compared to harsher
“Everyone has been talking about suds off and the peptides stay on the ingredients like retinols.”
skin barrier for a few years now,” says skin doing, the work. Nobody else has
Carolina Denman, Evolved by Nature’s a barrier ingredient that does that, per Decoupling ‘Vegan’ and ‘Sustainable’
director, North America applications the company. The last five years of Google search
R&D and natural ingredients, “but Evolved by Nature has also data shows that consumers routinely
it’s always been the foundation of developed Activated Silk 27P-a (INCI: query terms such as “cruelty free” and
true and natural skin care because, Soluble Fibroin), a collagen type 1 “sustainable” alongside vegan beauty,

Image by photoguns at Adobe Stock

Image by millaf at Adobe Stock

The last five years of Google search data shows that consumers routinely query terms such as “cruelty free” and “sustainable” alongside vegan beauty, reflecting
both shoppers’ interest in products offering all three qualities and the frequent conflation of these concepts.

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 reflecting both shoppers’ interest in
products offering all three qualities
and the frequent conflation of these
concepts.
Jonathan Graham, Evolved by
Nature’s senior director of translational
marketing, argues, “‘Vegan’ is a
marketing word masquerading as a
sustainable cause. And it has actually
done a disservice to vegans.”
Graham explains, “If you are a
vegan, then vegan ingredients are the
right choice for you. But when ‘vegan’
is used as a signal for sustainability, it
can be very misleading. For one thing,
petrochemicals and polyurethane
based ingredients can be considered
vegan and those are 180 degrees from
sustainable. And when you consider
the water and energy resources
needed to manufacture many vegan Calybiota Bio is recommended for intimate hygiene care to alleviate discomfort and soothe and hydrate
ingredients, it pushes them further the intimate area. In this way, Calybiota Bio can improve the sexual well-being of women, particularly
away from sustainable.” post-menopause.
It should be noted, of course, that
soluble fibroin, the basis for the two
Evolved by Nature peptides discussed
in this report, is a silk protein most kapok tree flower calyxes in Burkina Expanscience, axillary dysbiosis
often produced by insects, including Faso, the material has reportedly can lead to both a weakened barrier
moths — and is therefore not vegan. been confirmed to rebalance women’s function and unpleasant odors.
Graham argues, “If we are experts intimate flora and reduce unpleasant The clinical study involved 27
on anything, we are experts on two body odors via optimization of the men who, when exposed to a
things — naturally derived peptides axillary microbiota of men. solution featuring 1.5% Calybiota
and sustainability. And we know that The source botanical is an oxalogenic Bio, experienced improved bacterial
the truest marker of sustainability species capable of sequestering carbon. diversity and quantity. This prebiotic
is circularity. Upcycling existing, To produce Calybiota Bio, Laboratoires effect included a positive shift in the
naturally occurring resources from Expanscience reportedly leverages ratio of Staphylococcus (beneficial
the supply chain, reducing waste and sustainable harvesting of red kapok species) to Corynebacterium (odor-
consumption. This is why our peptide tree flower calyxes without harming associated bacteria), totaling 489%
technology is both sustainable and the tree itself. from day 0 to day
cruelty free. Something many vegan Calybiota Bio had previously The rebalancing of odor-associated
ingredients cannot say.” demonstrated its effectiveness in Corynebacterium species reduced
rebalancing women’s vaginal flora the presence of volatile organic
through a prebiotic effect on L. gasseri, compounds (acetic acid, butyric
Expanding Microbiome L. acidophilus and L. jenseni. It is acid and valeric acid), which are
Claims to Menopausal therefore recommended for intimate responsible for unpleasant odors, by
Sexual Wellness and hygiene care to alleviate discomfort 56.8% within 24 hr.
and soothe and hydrate the intimate Beyond intimate care and axillary
Odor Control area. In this way, Calybiota Bio can odor, Calybiota Bio can reportedly
Laboratoires Expanscience’s improve the sexual well-being of be applied in solutions for atopic
Image by millaf at Adobe Stock

Calybiota Bio (INCI: Glycerin (and) women, particularly post-menopause. dermatitis (targeting S. aureus)
Water (Aqua) (and) Bombax Costatum Most recently, research showed that and acne and seborrheic dermatitis
Flower Extract) is an active ingredient a 1.5% concentration of Calybiota (targeting C. acnes and M. furfur,
designed to rebalance the skin Bio “significantly” reduces unpleasant respectively).
microbiota with a prebiotic effect. body odors by optimizing the axillary
Sustainably sourced from the red microbiota of men. Per Laboratoires

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 Marketing Intelligence

Finding Oxidative Balance

CLR claims its antioxidant
CefiraProtect CLR (INCI: Betaine (and)
Isomalt (and) Lactobacillus Ferment
Lysate (and) Kefiran) empowers skin to
resist aging by helping it maintain its
own oxidative balance.
In clinical trials, per the company,
CefiraProtect CLR significantly
reduced hidden inflammation in 90%
of participants, compared with the
placebo. This, in turn, helped preserve
the skin’s youthful qualities and overall
health by maintaining:
• radiance,
• firmness,
• elasticity and
• barrier function.

The vegan and fermented skin care

Using a patent-pending plant biofactory production process, Core Biogenesis produces bioactive compounds
material is derived from probiotic such as proteins. These proteins are fused to the surface of oleosomes — natural oilseed reservoirs — to
Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens from kefir create stable actives with enhanced skin delivery.
grains. Its benefits are attributed to its
kefiran polysaccharide content.
According to the company, Peauvita Lifting x Thickening:
(EGF - Oleosome) and Peauforia (FGF2 Multifunctional Beauty
Growth Factors for
- Oleosome) were tested in a placebo-
Enhanced Anti-aging controlled clinical trial (n = 60) by a Seppic’s natural (ISO 16 128),
Efficacy third party using each active at 1%. biodegradable Solagum AX thickener
Results revealed Peauvita significantly (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (and)
Biotech and plant-derived
reduced the appearance of fine lines Xanthan Gum) was recently
recombinant protein specialist Core
and wrinkles while boosting skin clinically shown to impart lifting
Biogenesis has entered the beauty
firmness in just 14 days. and other skin benefits just 30 min
scene with two launches — Peauvita
Moreover, Peauforia diminished after application.
(FGF-2-oleosome) and Peauforia
melanin in hyperpigmented areas Additional effects with Solagum AX
(EGF-oleosome) — to combat four key
and restored the skin barrier within at 1% include, per the company:
signs of aging. Per the company, these
advanced growth factors offer high the same timeframe. Taken together, • sensation of freshness during
stability and efficacy against wrinkles, the actives offer a comprehensive application,
hyperpigmentation and more. solution to target these four primary • brighter and more radiant skin
Using a patent-pending plant signs of aging. complexion,
biofactory production process, “Our focus has been on growth • reduction in crow’s feet wrinkles
Core Biogenesis produces bioactive factors, essential proteins naturally and spots, and
compounds such as peptides and found in the skin that diminish with • skin-softening effects.
proteins from the seeds of Camelina age, contributing to the aging process,”
sativa plants. These proteins are fused says Alexandre Reeber, president and According to Seppic, Solagum AX is
to the surface of oleosomes — natural CEO of Core Biogenesis. “Through an association of acacia and xanthan
Image by tatyanarow at Adobe Stock

oilseed reservoirs — to create stable our innovative technology, we’ve gums that is 100% natural and readily
Image by Strelciuc at Adobe Stock

actives with enhanced skin delivery. successfully stabilized two of the most biodegradable. The multifunctional
The names Peauforia (FGF-2- sought-after growth factors, [epidermal rheology modifier is said to perform
oleosome) and Peauvita (EGF- growth factor] (EGF) and [fibroblast better than xanthan gum alone in
oleosome) were inspired by the French growth factor 2] (FGF-2), which terms of thickening and stabilizing
term for skin, peau, combined with the promise enhanced efficacy for skin care formulas, while bringing film-forming,
concepts of vitality and euphoria. brands and, ultimately, the consumer.” soothing and moisturizing properties.

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 The polymer also reportedly imparts for example, is described as a unique preservative blend as an alternative
a better aqueous sensation with a and multifunctional high molecular- to phenoxyethanol. Derived through
non-stringy effect and, as previously weight polymeric emollient. The fermentation, the ingredient imparts
described, is water-soluble, dissolving ingredient is designed to create rich synergistic activity through its
quickly, and is compatible with and luxurious textures, elevate the peptide complex and esters and is
hydrophilic pigments. sensory experience of commonly said to provide “unexpected” broad
Per the company, to create natural used alkanes, and is said to provide antimicrobial protection across a
and minimalist cosmetics without conditioning benefits for hair. Citropol wide pH range.
compromising on performance, DE-4 is designed to be utilized in Per Dermegen, while many beauty
formulators have sought natural, various formulations, including skin preservative systems are synthetic,
multifunctional excipients that and hair care, rinse-off and leave-on derived from petroleum products
go beyond their initial properties. and color cosmetics. and other non-natural sources,
Solagum AX provides a solution. Citropol V6 (INCI: bis-Polycitronellyl Dermacare NP (INCI: Water (Aqua)
In addition, per the company, Succinate (and) Undecane (and) (and) 1,3-Propanediol (and) Glyceryl
Solagum AX’s higher pH and C13-14 Alkane), on the other hand, is Caprylate (and) Epsilon Polylysine) is
electrolyte resistance allows it to described as a novel volatile emollient naturally derived from ferment using a
maintain viscosity even with active blend that combines spreadability patent-pending peptide complex.
ingredients (such as urea, glycolic with a light, non-greasy feel, to be
acid, allantoin and aloe vera gel) or used across the spectrum of beauty to Supercharged Bakuchiol: a Retinol
thermal waters. create light, airy and second skin-like Alternative
formulations. Lipoid Kosmetik AG’s BakuLipid
According to P2 Science, Citropol (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Next-level Sensory Effects V6 is able to replace cyclomethicone, (and) Bakuchiol (and) Lecithin (and)
P2 Science’s Citropol DE-4 and a widely used silicone in personal care Tocopherol) reportedly combines
Citropol V6 offer texture enhancement products known for its smooth feel and the retinol-like efficacy of bakuchiol
and a viable replacement for quick-drying properties. with unsaturated phospholipids to
cyclomethicone, respectively. The enhance skin penetration for anti-aging
natural-based ingredients are skin benefits.
biodegradable and made from upcycled A New Generation of
Like other bakuchiols, the ingredient
forest-derived terpenes. Alternatives is purported to be gentler than retinol.
According to P2 Science, the Citropol And, by pairing the material with
polymeric emollients represent the A Naturally Derived Phenoxyethanol unsaturated phospholipids, BakuLipid
first new liquid polymeric emollients
Alternative
features amplified potency tanks to
launched since silicones. Citropol DE-4 Dermegen Inc. recently launched
enhanced skin penetration capabilities.
(INCI: bis-Polycitronellyl Duccinate), its Dermacare NP natural synergistic
According to the company,
BakuLipid has been proven to
outperform conventional bakuchiol
in vivo, effectively targeting blemishes
and signs of aging, including the
appearance of wrinkles. The ingredient
also controls sebum production.

Olive Oil-derived D5 Alternative

Tri-K Industries’ Fision EcoSil
(INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl
Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Plive
Oil Unsaponifiables) is an upcycled
Image by tatyanarow at Adobe Stock

emollient derived from olive oil esters

and unsaponifiables. According
to the company, it offers sensorial
effects comparable to D5 and low
viscosity dimethicone for skin and hair
According to P2 Science, the Citropol polymeric emollients represent the first new liquid polymeric emollients care applications.
launched since silicones. Fision EcoSil reportedly provides

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 Marketing Intelligence

better wet combing and a similar

hair sensory profile compared to D5.
Furthermore, its skin sensory profile is
similar to dimethicone. The ingredient
features a natural origin index of 1.0,
per ISO 16128 1:2016 and 2:2017.
“Currently, there is a noticeable
shift among personal care consumers
toward the use of naturally derived and
upcycled ingredients,” says Uriel Plata
of Tri-K Industries. “Simultaneously,
there is a growing emphasis on
reducing the use of silicones,
particularly cyclopentasiloxane
(D5), due to stringent regulatory
requirements in Europe.”
Plata adds, “As D5 is widely used in
personal care formulations, identifying
effective alternatives presents significant
challenges for formulators. Our Fision Tri-K Industries’ Fision EcoSil (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifi-
Ecosil, derived from olives, provides ables) is an upcycled emollient derived from olive oil esters and unsaponifiables.
an ideal solution by addressing the
demand for both naturally sourced and
upcycled ingredients while delivering with Denmark-based Cellugy, a petrochemicals in consumer products,
performance comparable to D5 in fermentation expert, to explore the the firms argue.
hair care applications and to low potential of biofabricated cellulose in This is particularly true
molecular weight dimethicones in skin personal care products. for rheology modifiers; many
care formulations.” In nature, cellulose can be found conventional options are derived
in the cell walls of green plants, some from petrochemical sources. Cellugy
High-performance, Petrochemical- algae and fungus-like oomycetes. believes it can tap biotech cellulose
free Rheology Modifiers Bacterially produced cellulose to produce rheology modifiers that
Scotland-based Ingenza, an engineer produced at scale reportedly has provide the high functionality of
of biological systems, has partnered the potential to replace fossil-based petrochemical-derived ingredients
with the sustainable profile offered by
conventional natural alternatives.
EcoFlexy RP, Cellugy’s cellulose-

From top: image courtesy of Naypong Studio; image by Krakenimages.com at Adobe Stock
based rheology modifier, was designed
to offer “excellent” performance,
“superb” skin feel and high
naturality, per the company. The
biodegradable technology is made
from fermentation-derived cellulose
that allows brands and formulators
to either replace or supplement
conventional rheology modifiers.
Moving forward, Cellugy is working
on developing a range of beauty
ingredients that improve on sensory,
Image by rocklights at Adobe Stock

suspension and delivery performance.

Meanwhile, under the Ingenza-
Cellugy agreement, which is intended
to “accelerate the understanding and
optimization of bacterial cellulose
EcoFlexy RP, Cellugy’s cellulose-based rheology modifier, was designed to offer “excellent” performance, production,” Cellugy will leverage
“superb” skin feel and high naturality, per the company. Ingenza’s knowledge of diverse
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 microorganisms to “identify key
factors influencing the cellulose
production pathway.”
This will reportedly allow
Cellugy to improve cellulose yield
and productivity for commercial
viability.
“We are thrilled to join forces
with Cellugy to explore strategies
for improving bacterial cellulose
production,” says Cristina Serrano,
senior scientist at Ingenza. “From a
scientist’s perspective, this project
is an exciting opportunity to work
with a new organism, which will in
turn help us to showcase Ingenza’s
capabilities and expand our ever-
increasing technical knowledge.”
“This partnership with
Ingenza perfectly aligns with
our commitment to driving
sustainability in biotechnology,” “Walnut shells have several sustainability advantages over conventional microbeads,” says Helen Cantrell,
says Deby Fapyane, cofounder and director of marketing and sales, Eco-Shell. “They are biodegradable, while synthetic microbeads persist in the
chief scientific officer at Cellugy. environment for centuries.”
“By combining the expertise of both
companies, we aim to accelerate the time versus synthetic ingredients that Furthermore, Cantrell argues that
development of the next generation are not biodegradable – a significant walnut shells pose fewer supply
of bio-solutions for sustainable environmental concern. Walnut shells chain challenges compared to
ingredients for the personal care are processed sustainably in solar- other materials.
market.” run facilities and don’t harm aquatic “Eco-Shell can control quality and
ecosystems when rinsed off. Using supply, ensuring customers get what
A Biodegradable Microbead walnut shells in cosmetic formulations they need when they need it,” she
Alternative helps companies align with shopper explains. “As a renewable resource,
demands, as consumers are turning walnut shells are readily available and
“Walnut shells have several
to green products for their own health not subject to supply chain bottlenecks
sustainability advantages over
From top: image courtesy of Naypong Studio; image by Krakenimages.com at Adobe Stock

and the health of the planet.” that other materials face.” n

conventional microbeads,”
says Helen Cantrell, director of
marketing and sales, Eco-Shell.
“They are biodegradable, while
synthetic microbeads persist in the
environment for centuries. Walnut
shells from Eco-Shell are also
annually renewable, come from a
food byproduct, and are sustainably
processed. Cosmetic companies can
reduce their environmental impact
and promote sustainability with
Image by rocklights at Adobe Stock

walnut shells.”
Walnut shells also offer
biodegradability claims for brands,
Cantrell notes. THIS PODCAST IS SPONSORED BY: BASF CORPORATION

She explains, “[W]alnut shells

help support biodegradability Click Above to Play
by naturally breaking down over
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 EXPERT
OPINIONS
Digital Tech
in Beauty:
Ingredient Discovery,
Early Trend Spotting,
Personalization, Digital Collabs,
Molecular Design and More

T
Contributors:
RACHEL GRABENHOFER,
COSMETICS & TOILETRIES

MALLIKA TIWARI, BASF CORP. echnology is nothing new for cosmetic

product developers. The ability to create ingre-
Image by Mark at Adobe Stock

HANNAH MELIA, CITRINE INFORMATICS

dients, test their efficacy in silico, visualize
CECILE GUYOT, COPTIS their beauty benefits, optimize formulations
BRIAN GRADY, DSM-FIRMENICH containing them, expose those formulas to
stability and microbio tests, etc., have been
KAREN HO, GRAVEL AI
fundamentals of our industry.
LUN YU, METANOVAS BIOTECH What is new is how smart digital technology has gotten. Take
artificial intelligence (AI) and ChatGPT, for example. It offers per-

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 haps the most accessible intentional experience innovation. Bioengineered ingredients and
with AI for consumers. In fact, as an experiment, wearable skin diagnostic devices are emerging
I used it to write the following introduction to this as key trends, enabling more precise, data-driven
article about digital tech in beauty. approaches to beauty.
Per ChatGPT: Technological advancements As these technologies evolve, cosmetic
are revolutionizing cosmetic science, driving scientists are leading the way in developing
innovation in product development and person- personalized, sustainable, and effective solutions
alization. AI-powered systems are now central to that shape the future of the beauty industry.
creating customized skincare solutions, analyzing Interesting; and as you will see later in this
individual skin profiles based on parameters like article, it aligns with industry experts’ insights.
hydration, texture, and pigmentation. This allows I also asked ChatGPT to predict future
cosmetic scientists to formulate highly targeted, opportunities for AI in beauty. Following were
effective products tailored to specific skin needs. its projections:
Augmented reality (AR) is also transform- • Hyper-personalized formulations
ing consumer experiences, particularly in color
cosmetics. Virtual try-on technology enables users
• Real-time skin monitoring and
adjustments
to visualize makeup on their skin in real-time,
reducing the need for physical testers and enhanc- • AI-driven ingredient discovery
ing online shopping experiences. • Virtual dermatologists and
Meanwhile, biotechnology and 3D printing are skin therapists
advancing ingredient sustainability and packag- • AI-powered sustainable beauty
ing design, creating new possibilities for cosmetic

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 Marketing Intelligence

Digital technology is nothing new for cosmetic

product developers. What is new is how
smart it has gotten — and how creative
we’re getting at leveraging it. Here, several
industry experts share their ideas for current
and future applications in beauty.

It added: These advancements suggest “There are so many exciting and disruptive
a future where beauty routines are not only changes in beauty technology,” Tiwari contin-
highly customized but also smarter, more ues. “We’re noticing that AI-driven platforms
sustainable, and deeply integrated with ongoing that enable formulation development have
technological progress. become a big part of an R&D professional’s
Notably, there is always the matter of feed- daily life. Helping them gain deeper insights
ing good information into the algorithm. As the on retail standards for formulations, overall
tech scours the web, the sources of information benchmarking and claim-based research.”
(and their reliability) are not clear; and gar- Tiwari highlights, “As a trend, we’re seeing
bage in = garbage out. that this transition is helping them reduce time
The output given here about tech in beauty spent on data and insight gathering, especially
seems fairly solid, but since it is AI “speaking” when it comes to innovative formulation,
about itself and other digital technologies, we product differentiation and finding white-space
turned to industry experts to gather their opin- for innovation.”
ions about how digital technology is shaping Looking forward, Tiwari believes the indus-
our industry. Here’s what they said. try will see more beauty brands using AI to
develop clean and sustainable beauty solutions,
Ingredient Discovery, with AI at the core of end-to-end formulation
Retail Insights, Clean Beauty development. In addition, it will enable truly
personalized beauty solutions.
and Personalization “From a consumer point of view, we may see
Mallika Tiwari, digital services lead in North more AI-driven tools that provide personalized
America for personal care, home care and I&I product recommendations, analyze individuals’
at BASF Corp., sees it from an ingredient per- skin conditions and preferences to formulate
spective. “Today, customers want to understand customized products. This personalization may
what each ingredient in the label means and also have an interesting use case in virtual try-
how it impacts their body. They want to know on experiences, where consumers can see how
whether the ingredients are sourced responsi- products will look on their skin before purchas-
bly, if they include parabens or silicones, if they ing,” Tiwari writes.
are bio-based or biodegradable, etc.” In terms of these enabling technologies,
Tiwari adds that as this need for ingredient Tiwari points to BASF’s AI-powered platform
knowledge shapes the consumer end of the D’lite, with features including:
personal care space, the other end – scientists Consumer insights and trend tracking –
– are embracing this as well, with artificial “We’re leveraging AI-optimized algorithms to
intelligence (AI). “AI is helping them open new analyze fast-changing consumer needs from
doors and find alternative solutions to tradi- information across the web and social media,”
tional ingredients with improved performance Tiwari explains. “[This allows] for a deeper
and sustainability profiles. understanding before product launches.”

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 “We’re leveraging AI-optimized algorithms to analyze fast-changing consumer needs from information across the web and social media.”

AI-powered formulation – Per Tiwari, trends. Lastly, they are increasing R&D pro-
this platform includes two AI-driven mod- ductivity and getting to market first using AI to
ules for R&D teams, Emollient Maestro and reformate products.”
Surfactant Navigator. “Emollient Maestro According to Melia, at the moment, AI and
helps scientists identify sustainable emollient other technologies are being implemented “in
mixes and mineral oil/silicone oil alternatives. pockets here and there” in large organizations.
And Surfactant Navigator offers natural and She believes this will change.
sustainable surfactant replacements to brands “In the future, these will all join up so
that want to replace their current surfactant that insights from social media automatically
combinations with natural surfactants, without inform R&D formulation, which will automati-
compromising performance.” cally inform supply chain optimization, etc.,”
Sustainability focus – With BASF’s Ingre- she writes. “AI and data management will
dients Revealed digital lab within D’lite, per enable this to happen. The key at the moment is
Tiwari, the company is empowering R&D teams adoption and scaling.”
to leverage sustainable formulation practices. “As Melia continues, “The technology is proven.
a part of this, they can evaluate if their formula- [N]ow what makes a difference is how usable
tion is compliant with industry lists like Sephora, and scalable a software platform is and whether
Target, Credo, Amazon and the Dirty Dozen.” it is backed up with an experienced team [that
Image by Alessandro Biascioli at Adobe Stock

understands] change management. Citrine

Adoption, Scaling and Informatics’ AI software platform is an excel-
Automating lent example of this.”

Social Media Insights Digital Collaboration,

Hannah Melia, product market lead for
Citrine Informatics, similarly sees the three
Accelerating Innovation and
main tech trends in beauty as: personalization, Sustainability Driven
insight and productivity. “Brands are trying to From an R&D perspective, Cecile Guyot,
create experiences in store that can be used communication manager at Coptis, looks to
to personalize products using tech. They are the lab. “Cosmetic R&D labs are evolving into
using tech to analyze insight from a myriad of smart laboratories, adopting holistic, digitally
social media sources, so as to spot emerging optimized strategies not only to accelerate the

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 Marketing Intelligence

innovation process, but also to enable data-driven in beauty,” Grady continues. “This has led
formulations,” she explains. innovators in the beauty industry to develop
“Today, formulation strategies must be sustain- technologies that demonstrate product efficacy
ability-focused while simultaneously responding in a visual format.”
swiftly to the demands of hyper-personalized According to Grady, the use of devices has
consumer expectations. With ambitious sustain- become more prominent in the beauty industry.
ability targets and tight timelines, every decision “This is especially the case in skin care. Con-
must be strategic to effectively accelerate the sumers can now use devices that can measure
formulation process.” skin conditions (e.g. dry skin, wrinkles, UV
Per Guyot, data centralization and digital col- damage, clogged pores). By using these devices,
laboration tools are now essential for R&D labs, consumers are now able to evaluate the condi-
facilitating real-time [interactions] and securing tion of their skin to choose the ideal products
the sharing of data, formulations and research for their skin care routine.”
insights across teams worldwide. Grady believes the beauty industry will
A data-driven approach unlocks new potential see an influx of brands launching these types
by automating tasks, enabling more informed of devices that incorporate AI technology to
decision-making and enhancing process effi- collect data to recommend a more personalized
ciency and precision,” she writes. “This approach approach to skin care.
not only improves agility and responsiveness, “DSM-Firmenich has developed an inno-
but also allows R&D teams to leverage AI and vative in-house, highly customizable color
machine learning more effectively, analyz- mapping technology that is used to depict levels
ing vast datasets for patterns and insights to of hydration, sebum levels and the microbiome
accelerate innovation.” in the skin and scalp,” Grady explains. “Using
As an example, Guyot points to Coptis PLM hydration as an example, hydration levels of
software. Powered by AI and designed specifically the skin are visualized with color scales based
for cosmetic R&D and compliance, the technol- on Corneometer or Scicon readings. This helps
ogy is designed to offer valuable insights into the identify the areas of the skin or scalp that need
stability test outcomes of formulations, enabling moisturization.”
faster and more informed decision-making Per Grady, DSM-Firmenich uses this tech-
throughout the product development process. nology, for example, to demonstrate the efficacy
“By minimizing trial-and-error cycles, it pro- of its 100% natural moisturizer, Pentavitin
motes creativity and experimentation, ultimately (INCI: Saccharide Isomerate (and) Water
accelerating the path to discovering optimal (Aqua) (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Citrate).
and sustainable formulations. This streamlined Derived from maize kernels, the ingredient
approach reduces development time and allows demonstrates strong moisturization efficacy.
brands to respond more swiftly to the rising
consumer demand for eco-friendly products,” Uncovering Early
Guyot concludes. Market Trends, Enabling
In-home Devices, Fast-follower Products
Karen Ho, co-founder and CEO of Gravel
Data Gathering and AI, sees tech enabling the identification of early
Visualizing Efficacy market trends and creating dupes (i.e., fast-fol-
“The beauty industry is constantly evolving lower or me-too products) in the beauty market.
and so [is] the consumer’s quest for knowledge,” “Identifying opportunities for dupes has
Brian Grady, Sr., marketing specialist at DSM- become easier,” Ho writes. “Validating early
Firmenich writes. “Brands are constantly striving market trends has become much easier with
to create messaging to educate consumers on the AI technology. Established brands will be able
benefits of ingredients and to explain the science to launch new products that capture precise
behind how these ingredients work. emerging opportunities by utilizing AI-powered
“Consumers are savvy and they now actively market intelligence tools.”
search for products that are scientifically backed She continues, “Manufacturing dupes has
and clinically proven to address their key needs become easier. AI-powered industry intelligence

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 tools can be used to uncover relationships According to Yu, Metanovas’ primary
between beauty brands and [original equip- focus is on designing innovative peptides. “By
ment manufacturers] (OEMs). It’s now easier utilizing AI models, we can design peptides that
than ever to find a target beauty brand or target different skin conditions.”
product, uncover OEMs they used, and ask the Furthermore, Yu adds that sustainability
OEMs to create similar products.” and ethical ingredient design are crucial. “AI
Ho believes this trend will impact both can help create eco-friendly innovations like
leaders and fast-follower beauty brands. biodegradable molecules and alternative sourc-
“Leaders can capture emerging opportuni- ing methods, reducing environmental impact.
ties faster than ever before. Fast-follower AI can also identify valuable compounds in
brands can jump on an early trend faster than agricultural or industrial waste, promoting
ever before.” sustainability by repurposing materials.”
Per Ho, Gravel AI’s OEM Intelligence Tool A key driver behind Metanovas’ advances is
uncovers OEMs used by fast-growing brands. its novel MetaPep molecule design platform.
“Gravel AI’s INCI List Scanner, Ingredient “MetaPep combines high-throughput experi-
Trends and Product Name Keyword Tools ments with generative AI and deep learning to
validate commercial success of early trends,” design new, targeted ingredients for skin care,”
she explains. Yu details.
“By integrating these technologies, MetaPep
Molecular Design, speeds up the development of innovative skin
Personalized Peptides and care ingredients and promotes sustainability by
reducing unnecessary experiments. This kind of
Eco Innovation platform enables the beauty industry to create
Lun Yu, chief technology officer of Meta- more effective and tailored products faster than
novas Biotech, sees a major opportunity for ever before.”
digital tech to direct ingredient discovery
and molecular design. “The beauty industry Conclusions
increasingly uses artificial intelligence to Digital technologies have enabled innovation
revolutionize ingredient discovery and for- beyond our imagination and without limits. To
mulation,” Yu writes. “AI-powered machine advance beauty product development, it’s just
learning models analyze extensive datasets of a matter of configuring the steps along the way
chemical compounds and biological interac- for an eagerly awaiting consumer.
tions, accelerating the identification of novel
active ingredients.”
Yu continues, “For example, Oddity
recently acquired Revela, a biotech startup
specializing in AI-driven ingredient design,
highlighting the industry’s shift toward
integrating AI for more efficient research and
development. These advancements are driven The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Tune In!
by consumer demand for personalized and
effective products and brands’ desire to offer
innovative, AI-driven products that appeal to
tech-savvy customers.”
But, per Yu, the opportunity goes much
deeper. “One promising direction is AI-
assisted de novo molecule design, where AI
generates new molecules with specific skin
care properties,” Yu explains. “This break-
through could lead to advancements in areas
Cosmetics & Toiletries’
such as anti-aging, skin inflammation and
skin repair by creating more effective and On-demand Webcasts
targeted ingredients.” www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/multimedia

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 Market Intelligence | C&T

KEY POINTS
• Skin care products are now promoting long-term
benefits, and supporting skin’s natural functions
through biohacking and longevity science, rather
than focusing on anti-aging effects.

• This evolution ties into a broader trend in

wellness, discussed here.

Next in Skin

Changing Perspectives
on ‘Anti-Aging’
Editor’s note: The following article is an
expanded version of the June 25, 2024, opening

S
address by Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., at the
9th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference, Royal
College of Physicians, London. Research sup-
Image by Dan Dalton/KOTO at Adobe Stock

porting this presentation and the observations

described herein was carried out by VISFO.1

Katerina Steventon, Ph.D. kin care products are now promoting long-
term benefits, and supporting skin’s natural
Independent Skincare Consultancy Ltd.,
functions through biohacking and longevity
Beverly, UK
science, rather than focusing on anti-aging
effects. This evolution ties into a broader
trend in wellness, discussed here.
In the ever-evolving world of skin care, the concept of anti-aging has
undergone significant transformation. The term itself, once a corner-

Reproduction in English or any other language of

18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024
© 2024 Allured Business Media.

CT2411_12_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 18 10/15/24 4:26 PM

 stone of the beauty industry, is gradually being replaced by more positive
and inclusive language. This shift reflects not only a change in how we
perceive aging, but also the diverse approaches to skin care now available to
consumers worldwide.
Discussions about changing the language around anti-aging have been
happening for several years now. However, what is different today is the
increased nuance and focus on the mechanisms of skin health rather than
just surface-level aesthetics. Skin care products are now promoting long-
term benefits, supporting skin’s natural functions through biohacking and
longevity science. This evolution ties into a broader trend in wellness, where
consumers are focused on healthy aging rather than simply looking younger.

Biological Backing for Skin Health and Care

As is well-known, skin aging is a complex process influenced by both
intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is a natural process driven by
genetics and hormonal changes. Over time:
• the production of collagen and elastin, proteins responsible for skin
firmness and elasticity, decreases.
• This reduction leads to a loss of skin elasticity, resulting in wrinkles and
fine lines.
• Additionally, the skin’s ability to retain moisture diminishes due to
decreased levels of hyaluronic acid, contributing to skin dryness and
further accentuating the signs of aging.
Extrinsic aging, on the other hand, is largely influenced by environmental
factors such as UV radiation, pollution and lifestyle choices. UV exposure
accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin, while pollution can cause
oxidative stress, leading to further skin damage. These factors collectively
contribute to the visible signs of aging, which anti-aging products aim
to address.
While the biological process of aging is well-understood, what is new is
the increased demand for science-backed products as well as consumers’
agency to curate their lifestyle choices. Skin care has become a part of this
holistic approach to their aging journey, integrating scientifically validated
products into a broader wellness regimen. This has led to the rise of science-
focused claims in skin care.

Rejuvenating Skin: The Changing Language of

Anti-aging Claims
The anti-aging skin care market has long been dominated by the promise
of maintaining a youthful appearance and reversing the signs of aging.
However, as noted, the industry has moved away from the term anti-aging as
it implies a battle against the natural process of growing older; a battle that
can never truly be won.
Instead, the focus is shifting toward terms like youthful or rejuvenated
skin and skin health. These terms are not only more positive, but also

Want More from this Author?

Check out Next in Skin: Beauty Wellness

Through Health in our September 2024 edition.

Vol. 139, No.

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in English 2024
or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2024 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries | 19

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 Market Intelligence

Discussions around the term anti-aging have

been happening for years but today there is
increased nuance and focus on skin health.
resonate better with consumers who are Global Perspectives on
increasingly looking for products to enhance
their natural beauty rather than fight against
Anti-Aging Skin Care
the inevitable; the increased focus on meno- The conversation around anti-aging skin
pausal skin care is a good example of this. care varies across different countries and
In addition, ingredients like peptides to cultures. This theme is popular in English-
boost collagen, hyaluronic acid to replenish speaking countries like the U.S. and the UK,
that which is naturally lost and approaches to as well as in Spanish-speaking regions and
combat inflammaging are gaining prominence. Indonesia. However, the media platforms used
The rise of collagen banking and longevity for- to discuss these topics differ globally. In the
mulations further underscores this shift toward U.S., blogs, online newsletters and forums are
a more informed, curated skin care routine. the primary sources of information, while other
The change in terminology has been ongo- countries may rely more on social media or
ing but what sets it apart now is the depth of localized digital platforms.
understanding of complexity around skin health Also, it’s not just the platforms that dif-
and well-being. Brands are no longer simply fer, but also the specific skin concerns across
replacing anti-aging with youthful skin, they are regions. In Indonesia, skin brightening products
aligning their products with scientific insights dominate the conversation, while anti-wrinkle
into skin longevity, cellular health and the hall- solutions are more popular in the U.S. and
marks of aging. This evolution is being driven Europe. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram
by both consumers and brands, as evidenced by also play a significant role in shaping beauty
data showing significant consumer engagement trends, especially in Asia where localized
with rejuvenation and skin health messaging digital media is the primary source for skin
across social media platforms. care education.
Despite the changing terminology, the This underscores the need for brands to
demand for products that promise to reduce understand regional priorities when developing
the signs of aging remains strong. Leading skin and marketing products. It also highlights the
care brands such as L’Oréal, The Estée Lauder importance of understanding cultural nuances
Cos., La Mer, The Ordinary, No7, CeraVe, Cha- in terms of how skin care and beauty insights
nel, La Roche-Posay and Neutrogena continue are communicated.
to dominate the market.
These brands have effectively adapted to Industry vs. Consumer:
the evolving language of skin care, offering Divergent Anti-aging
products that emphasize skin health and rejuve- Terminology
nation rather than simply combatting age. This
There is an interesting dynamic in terms
has led to the introduction of products focused
of how the skin care industry vs. consumers
on cellular repair, reinforcing the barrier to
communicate anti-aging terminology. Although
ensure skin health and boosting immunity,
as indicated, consumers are focused on skin
rather than attempting to reverse aging.
health, the industry has been quicker to adopt
terms like pro-aging and well-aging. Consumers
The anti-aging skin care market is still frequently use anti-aging to describe their
expected to expand at a CAGR of 6.5% skin care goals.
from 2024-2034. This disconnect suggests that while consum-
ers are interested in embracing the natural
Source: Transparency Market Research
aging process, they still seek products that offer

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 tangible benefits, such as reduced wrinkles and skin’s natural functions, and the embrace of the
improved skin texture. aging process with grace and confidence.
Indeed, consumers continue to search for This shift toward pro-aging and well-aging
anti-aging solutions — as evidenced by 452,000 reflects a broader societal trend. Aging is no
consumer mentions of anti-aging in comparison longer seen as something to be feared or resisted
to only 20 mentions by the industry. This high- but rather as something to be embraced with a
lights that while the language is changing within focus on wellness, self-care and longevity. Prod-
the industry, consumers still prioritize visible ucts targeting inflammaging or those promoting
results like wrinkle reduction and improved skin cellular repair enable consumers to feel empow-
texture. Brands that succeed will be those that ered through healthy aging rather than fixating on
can effectively merge positive aging messages looking younger.
with proven, science-backed results.
References
The Future of Anti-aging: 1. VISFO. (2024). Research provided to the author for June 25,
Toward Pro-aging and 2024, opening address. 9th Anti-Aging Skin Care Conference,
Royal College of Physicians, London.
Well-aging
As the skin care industry continues to evolve,
there is a growing recognition that the term
anti-aging does not fully capture the diverse Want More from this Author?
needs and desires of consumers. Concepts like
pro-aging, well-aging and skin health are used as Check out Next in Skin: Facial Cleansing for
Acne Control, Health and Radiance in our
they emphasize a more positive and inclusive April 2024 edition.
approach to skin care, a focus on supporting the

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 ACTIVE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
2025 A
Celebrating Beauty Innovation

Sharon AquaVita - Sharon Personal Care Entries for the 2025 Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T)
Sharon AquaVita is the first and only multifunctional vita- Allē Awards are being reviewed by our judges – and
min-based preservation platform. The science supporting we’re eagerly awaiting the results to announce the
AquaVita is multifaceted. As a preservation system, it is
highly hydro-soluble and easily incorporated into the formu- finalists! In the meantime, we offer the following
la. As an active, AquaVita utilizes niacinamide, a well-toler- sneak preview of innovations we received as of
ated ingredient that offers various well-known skin benefits
such as improving skin texture, reducing inflammation and Sept. 3, 2024. Note that the descriptions are shown
minimizing the appearance of pores and fine lines. AquaVita as provided by the entrants.
is at the forefront of preservative systems, combining
efficacy, multifunctionality and sustainability. AquaVita is This is not a complete list and the entries shown
biodegradable per OECD 301F. Sharon AquaVita acts both as are not necessarily finalists – but it provides a
a preservative and an active, maintaining the true meaning
of minimalism, efficacy and sustainability. sampling of the innovations we’re seeing from the
industry. Stay tuned for the finalist announcement
Corneopeptyl - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics in November – and see you at the exclusive awards
by Clariant gala on March 12, 2025!
Repeated attacks can damage the skin barrier, leading to Visit www.AlleAwards.com for more details.
water loss, increased permeability and, eventually, prema-
ture aging. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, collaborating with the
Infinity Institute, discovered a new protein: LCE6A, known
to be essential for mechanical resistance of corneocytes.
By mimicking LCE6A activity, Corneopeptyl strengthens the
corneocyte envelope, resulting in a more resilient epidermal
barrier with improved function and reduced permea-
bility. Using AI and a patented algorithm, Corneopeptyl
was demonstrated to future-proof skin by reducing the
appearance of aging signs, with a rejuvenating effect of up
to four years younger. It is patented and obtained by green
chemistry-based synthesis. Images by Pogonici at Dreamstime.com; DC Studio at Adobe Stock

Vecollage Fortify L - Evonik Corp.

Vecollage Fortify L (Proposed INCI: Water (Aqua) (and)
Glycerin (and) sh-Polypeptide-69) is a new vegan and
skin-identical collagen polypeptide produced through
biotechnology. This innovative product offers dual working
mechanisms, protecting collagen from the degradation
of proteins in the extracellular matrix while promoting
collagen synthesis. In vitro, ex vivo and in vivo tests have
demonstrated the effectiveness of the product, with ex vivo
tests confirm its anti-aging efficacy on the dermal-epider-
mal junction. This collagen is halal-certified and sustain-
ably sourced from renewable resources through precision
fermentation. Structurally identical to a selected section of
human collagen type III, this vegan collagen demonstrates
superior performance.
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5 ALLE
on
AWARDS
SNEAK PREVIEW
Images by Pogonici at Dreamstime.com; DC Studio at Adobe Stock

Image by stokkete at Adobe Stock

The 2024 Celebration

Be sure to check out all of our 2024
event coverage in your May edition.

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 Apinol360 - ApiotiX Technologies & Epispot - BASF
NextGen Actives Epispot is a rosebay willowherb extract that provides authentic
Apinol360, a patented, next-generation blend of phenolic flawless beauty for consumers. It addresses the root causes of
acids and caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE) derived from imbalance in blemish-prone skin including excess oil, microbial
propolis, offers robust anti-inflammaging benefits as a dysbiosis and the overpowering skin's defense systems. BASF
natural, safe alternative to retinol. Derived utilizing a pat- developed a new method for 3D visualization of skin structures
ented extraction process, it modulates different biological to understand the pilosebaceous unit. Based on two years of
pathways in the skin, promoting collagen production and scientific research, we combined our expertise in cell culture,
delivering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial histology and microscopy to develop this innovative ex vivo model
effects. Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by an average to visualize and understand the natural lipids in skin. Through use
of 34% within 28 days, Apinol360 not only enhances overall of this novel methods and others, we developed Epispot.
skin health, but also supports comprehensive skin care.
Meticulously blended in PEG-400 and lecithin, this ad-
vanced formula is designed to meet the highest standards SharoHyal Moringa - Sharon Personal Care
of safety and efficacy in skin care. SharoHyal Moringa is the perfect synergy between hydrolyzed
moringa proteins and low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate.
It repairs damaged hair by simultaneously providing natural
Deinde Skin-strengthening Serum with moisture by sealing the cuticle and strengthening hair from the
Naringenin - Deinde inside. Chemical bonds created between the positive charges
of the hydrolyzed moringa proteins and the negative charges of
This skin-strengthening serum is a multi-tasking marvel
sodium hyaluronate form a protective layer on the cuticle. The
that uses DEINDE’s proprietary biotech-derived naringen-
low MW sodium hyaluronate and hydrolyzed moringa proteins
in – a new active ingredient that’s 15x more effective at
pass through the hair cuticle into the cortex repairing from the
reducing inflammaging than niacinamide. It’s clinically
inside out. SharoHyal Moringa strengthens the cuticle, increasing
proven to target fine lines, dullness, uneven tone, dryness
elasticity and moisture, minimizing damage and reducing signs of
and uneven texture in just four weeks, and has elastici-
split ends.
ty-improving and pore-refining benefits. Gentle but mighty
and delicately silky upon application with a lotion-like
texture and cushiony, soft matte finish, the skin-strength-
ening formula rejuvenates the skin and sustains skin Scalpinist-Senso - RAHN AG
health. Its ingredients are delivered via an emulsifier with a Individuals with scalp sensitivity experience sensations of
liquid crystal structure that creates a pocket in the stratum discomfort, irritation and itchiness against stressors that would
corneum to support effective delivery. not typically trigger such reactions. Excessive oiliness has been
established with the sensitive scalp condition. Sebaceous glands
respond to stress by increasing sebum production, which can
Timelys - Greentech contribute to disruptions in the microbiome, supporting inflam-
mation and resulting sensations of discomfort. Scalpinist-Senso
Timelys is a natural active ingredient designed to enhance
is a unique active ingredient designed for sensitive-oily scalp. It
skin longevity. Developed from Schisandra chinensis,
aims to alleviate scalp discomfort within two weeks by restoring
adaptogen superberries of wild flora classified among
balance to the disturbed microbiome and reducing scalp sebum
the superior medicines, Timelys is rich in schisandrin,
through a simple rinse-off application. It is obtained by extracting
phytomolecule known as skin healthspan enhancer. While
Maclura cochinchinensis leaves, rich in prenylated bioflavonoids.
optimizing essential interconnected cellular functions over
time and acting on skin longevity mechanisms (autophagy,
mitochondrial activity, microcirculation, inflammation...),
Timelys has an intensive preventive action on wrinkles, EverBond - TRI-K Industries Inc.
for glowing and smoothed skin (clinical study of three EverBond is a natural bonding technology that repairs, strength-
multi-ethnic cohorts). Timelys represents a perfect blend of ens and protects damaged hair. It penetrates the hair cortex,
the power of nature and a cutting-edge scientific process, effectively bonding with keratin sites to restore structure and
to provide a complete solution to preserve and extend strength to the hair strands. EverBond offers a range of benefits,
skin longevity. including the repair of disulfide bonds, protection against heat
styling and strengthening of hair strands to reduce breakage.
Benefits are seen instantly after one application, and there is no
unwanted build-up after multiple uses. EverBond can be used in
a variety of hair care applications including pre-shampoo masks,
shampoos, conditioner and leave-on treatments.

Curamina - Curie Co.

Curamina is a groundbreaking dual-action bioactive ingredient for
hair care. Designed to work with protein ingredients, Curamina is
Image by imagehub at Adobe Stock

a unique bond builder, initiating covalent peptide bonds. Curamina

bonds the proteins to the hair fiber and seals in the benefits with
a long-lasting, resilient film shown to withstand multiple washes.
This multifaceted ingredient revitalizes hair health, improves styl-
ing and manageability, preserves hair color, and more. Curamina
is a biomimetic ingredient mimicking the function of transglu-
taminase, an enzyme found in skin and hair follicles known to
build peptide bonds. Curamina is a proprietary transglutaminase
tailored for hair care formulations and powered by biotechnology.

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 Eterwell Youth - DSM-Firmenich molecule. Leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation,
Givaudan Active Beauty production methods have been revolu-
Senolytics, the new frontier for skin care, addresses the root tionized to become more environmentally friendly, achieving an
causes of aging. Acting at the cellular level to remove senescent outstanding 91% reduction in environmental impact.*
cells, Eterwell Youth allows healthy cells to function properly. So
instead of addressing the results of biological aging, Eterwell PrimalHyal 50 Life comprises significant improvements across
Youth removes the cells that cause the damage in the first place. various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a life cycle
Look nine years younger in three months with Eterwell Youth, the analysis*, boasting:
universal senolytic solution that works on all skin types, ethnicities, • -92% greenhouse gas emissions*,
genders and ages. It has a positive impact across all skin layers:
skin texture, skin structure, skin elasticity and firmness significant- • -95% acidification and eutrophication of water*,
ly improved vs placebo after three months. • -90% non-renewable energy usage* and
• -75% water consumption.*
Cycloretin - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant * Based on cradle-to-gate LCA carried out by an external firm in
2023 using specific Givaudan data.
CycloRetin is a patented natural cyclic peptide that offers the
same anti-aging benefits as retinol without irritation. Responsibly
sourced from Prince Ginseng, an adaptogenic plant revered in
Traditional Chinese Medicine, it contains heterophyllin B, a revolu- Illumiscin-Glow - RAHN AG
tionary cyclic peptide that gently improves signs of aging in only 14 Today’s digital generation celebrates differences, individuality and
days. As efficient as retinol in reducing wrinkles and outperforming diversity. There is a desire to optimize skin tone, but away from
bakuchiol on skin sagging, CycloRetin stimulates collagen produc- "simple" bleaching to the extreme and toward aspects of healthy
tion and skin matrix architecture. Easy to formulate and efficient at skin such as radiance, luminosity, brightness and reduction of
0.3%, CycloRetin can be used worldwide in formulas designed for redness. Illumiscin-Glow is a modern skin lightener, being effective
both day and night. in a multi-ethnic panel; improving skin brightening, reducing
sunspot visibility, increasing skin luminosity; and reducing redness.
Illumiscin-Glow inhibits tyrosinase and blocks melanin synthesis
Luteana Scalp - Microphyt thanks to hordatines, a novel class of tyrosinase inhibitors, which
show superior binding to human tyrosinase, as proven by molecular
Luteana scalp is the revolutionary approach to sensitive scalp. De-
docking experiments using AI.
veloped by Microphyt from a Tahitian microalgae, it acts as a novel
way to halt the spreading of dry dandruff and restore a healthy
scalp. Its dual action rebalances the structural and biochemical
imbalances to halt dry dandruff spread with long-lasting effect. The BASE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
ingredient: Ecohance Remo XP - Evonik Corp.
• is an oil-based bioactive concentrating two powerful marine Ecohance Remo XP is a versatile and mild ingredient that functions
molecules: fucoxanthin and DHA; as a rheology modifier, hydrophilic emollient, and sensory enhancer,
Image by tongpatong at Adobe Stock
Image by imagehub at Adobe Stock

• targets both structural and biochemical imbalances by strength- making it a suitable option for personal hygiene products. Ecohance
ening the scalp’s hydrolipidic film and providing soothing effects to Remo XP is produced using a low-energy enzymatic process that
reduce the spread of dry dandruff; and utilizes feedstocks sourced from local tropical alternatives and
waste streams, making it an eco-friendly and sustainable choice
• helps regain a healthy scalp and enhance overall quality of life. for personal care products. Additionally, this product is COSMOS
Natural-approved, ensuring that it meets strict standards for natural
and organic cosmetics.
PrimalHyal 50 Life - Givaudan Active Beauty
Years of research have culminated in PrimalHyal 50 Life, a cor-
nerstone in the sustainable development of the hyaluronic acid

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 LignoBase - Lignopure Dynasan CrystalControl L - IOI Oleo GmbH
LignoBase the first lignin-based natural multifunctional ingredient IOI Oleo introduces Dynasan CrystalControl L, a revo-
line in the market that, thanks to Lignopure's patented technology, lutionary solid lipid designed from the latest patented
transfers the protective power of lignin to boost cosmetic formulations. technologies and manufactured in Germany under pharma
Lignin's unique phenolic hydroxyl groups in its structure help to neu- GMP production. Based on natural polyglycerol and stearic
tralize free radicals to support antioxidant power in the skin and in the acid, this vegan safe ester forms polymorphic-free layers
formulation. This structure stabilizes UV filter systems while its radical controlling crystallization processes in cosmetic formulas.
quenching properties, film capacities and scattering microparticles This film-forming, deep-moisturizing emollient will therefore
boost the photoprotective efficiency of the SPF. Its hydrophobic func- transform the industry by saving millions of products from
tional groups and optimized particle size and porous structure make it being unnecessarily wasted due to “blooming” default,
a natural mattifying agent that also gives a soft-focus effect. consequently growing trust of consumers in brands. Fur-
thermore, it enhances final sensory with higher gliding and
pay-off, making this formulator’s jewel a “must” to allow
Hydroxyaminobutane Biobased Amino Alcohol for the worry-free development of steady-quality sustainable
Personal Care - Advancion Corp. solid cosmetics.

Hydroxyaminobutane is a new-to-market, biodegradable multifunc-

tional amino alcohol exclusively manufactured by Advancion, with Crodamol GTS - Croda Beauty
a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 0.65. Hydroxyaminobutane provides
exceptional performance, including high-efficiency neutralization, Crodamol GTS restores smoothness and shine to damaged
emulsion stabilization and pigment dispersion in a wide range of hair and has a range of natural credentials such as 100%
personal care applications, including clean beauty formulations. natural according to ISO 16128; readily biodegradable
Hydroxyaminobutane provides excellent compatibility with rheology according to OCED 301B; PPG/PEG-free; halal approved;
modifiers and delivers superior high humidity curl retention (HHCR) vegan suitable; and cruelty-free. Specifically designed
in hair sprays and other hair styling products. This new molecule was to accommodate a diversity of hair types, Crodamol GTS
specifically developed for use in the beauty and personal care market, presents a sustainable and inclusive alternative to silicones
with multifunctional performance and a sustainability profile that set a in hair care, hair color, treatments and styling applications.
new industry standard for multifunctional additives.

Emulgade Verde 10 OL - BASF

Ultrafine Bubble Delivery Vehicle - Hydrosome Labs Emulgade Verde 10 OL is a remarkable o/w emulsifier that
Our technology leverages the principles of ultrafine bubbles. We have boasts exceptional emulsifying properties and stability.
developed a processing system that generates high concentrations of Derived from natural sources, it offers a sustainable solution
these particles in pure water through a solely mechanical process with for formulators. Its ability to support nano-scale emulsion
no chemical additives. These bubbles are less than one micron in size formation, even at high emollient concentrations, makes
and remain stable in formulation for over 26 months. When incor- Emulgade Verde 10 OL a versatile emulsifier to deliver
porated into cosmetic products, water containing ultrafine bubbles unique textures and enhance stability as a co-emulsifier.
enhances hydration and the delivery of active ingredients. In the realm Furthermore, it is mild, nonionic and free from PEGs, making
of clean beauty, where consumer mistrust of formulations is prevalent, it suitable for sensitive skin as it maintains the perfect
we offer a clean, scalable and familiar solution that improves product balance of healthy skin microbial communities.
formulations with chemically pure water.

Silk-iCare - Givaudan Active Beauty

LexSolv Essential - Inolex Silk-iCare is a new vegan biotech silk delivering amazing
As brands moved to natural ingredients and sustainable formulas, their functional benefits for skin. The ingredient:
formulators identified a new gap in their ingredient portfolio: natural • is a robust, non-sticky, thixotropic, non-occlusive hydro-
solubilizers. Traditional solubilizers are effective but petro-derived and gel with excellent biocompatibility;
ethoxylated, or naturally derived, but not very effective. In some cases,
the solubilizers that are effective cause preservation ingredients to • creates a light, breathable film on the skin with
lose efficacy. Inolex designed a novel 100% natural polyglyceryl ester skin-protection properties against pollution; and
(PGE) surfactant, LexSolv Essential, exhibiting fast micellar dynamics • acts as an invisible bandage to repair injured skin and
that delivers solubilization without compromising solute activity, in- thus reduces skin imperfections.
cluding preservation efficacy. PGEs are versatile and sustainable. They
are 100% natural when prepared from plant-based glycerin and fatty
acids, with outstanding safety and toxicological profiles.

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 FINISHED FORMULAS Natural Deodorant - Axilla Orb - Tronque
Firming Serum - ManukaRx This soft milky emulsion is enriched with natural antimicrobial skin
actives and powerful odor-absorbing ingredients. It provides proven
This fast-acting serum is enriched with manuka oil, manuka 24-hr efficacy for confident, all-day protection.
honey and Retinaturel, a powerful natural retinal ingredient. This
key ingredient combination helps to firm the skin, increase skin
elasticity and cell turnover, and reduce the appearance of fine lines Danger Jones Semi-Permanent Hair Color -
and wrinkles.
Danger Jones
The two main differences in our semi-permanent hair colors are
Oceanic Exfoliating Balm - Seadragon Organic viscosity and vibrancy. The lower viscosity makes it easier to apply,
provides better saturation and requires less of the product. Our
Oceanic Exfoliating Balm is specially formulated for women in mid-
colors are highly pigmented; even our pastels have “guts.” Use
life, who often need assistance in shedding skin cells. Crafted with
directly from tube; no developer needed. Deposit only colors are in-
more than 97% RSPO-certified organic ingredients and COSMOS
termixable with a low pH and give condition, shine and vibrancy to
Organic certification, this luxurious balm combines a natural AHA
hair. The product features gig poster packaging artwork created by
from Australian caviar finger-lime with a pH close to our skin, for
artists and intentionally defies conventional marketing wisdom with
incredibly gentle exfoliation. It works by loosening the bonds be-
no consistent logo. Every box includes a swatch color grid for stylist
tween skin cells, while jojoba wax spheres lift away the dead skin,
and client education. Soft touch technology is used on the carton
revealing a fresh, radiant complexion. Infused with antioxidant-rich
and tube, which is recyclable. The product is stylist created.
Spirulina blue algae and a thoughtfully crafted essential oil blend, it
delivers a spa-like experience at home, while supporting hormonal
changes.
Make Over Powerstay Glazed Lock Lip Pigment -
Paragon Technology and Innovation
Super Boost Oil - Sage and Clay Make Over Powerstay Glazed Lock Lip Pigment is the next level of
This is the world’s first acne-safe skin barrier nourishing face and lip gloss, with PowerGlaze-Technology to deliver a 24-hr uncrack-
hair oil. A healthy skin barrier requires synthesis of ceramides, cho- able high pigment, impeccable glossy shine and longevity. It holds
lesterol, as well as fatty acids. This is the first oil that does all three, up against all the vagaries of everyday life from a.m. to p.m.,
treating multiple conditions at once, making it one of the most ver- without compromising comfort. It's designed for busy professionals
satile products on the market. Super Boost Oil can be used alone and beauty enthusiasts wanting to follow the rising glossy-lip trend,
or added to a moisturizer. It rapidly regenerates the skin, shutting yet wish the formula to be as transfer-proof and long-lasting as the
down inflammation and accelerating wound repair. Super Boost lip mattes they’re already familiar with. This innovative formulation
Oil also increases the key components of barrier repair, including combines advanced film-forming polymers with a transformative
ceramides, filaggrin and cholesterol, whilst reducing histamine and plump glaze layer, making it perfect for those seeking both perfor-
itching. It additionally protects against blue light. mance and elegance.

Bounce Butter SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen - Symbio-12 - Roccoco Botanicals

SPF Ventures, LLC, dba Brush On Block This innovative multifunctional lightweight serum contains live
probiotics that modulate the circadian rhythm of the skin, reducing
Bounce Butter is Brush On Block’s new body sunscreen that goes
cortisol and protecting from blue light. Symbio-12 increases the
on like a luxe body butter. The whipped mousse texture glides onto
appearance of volume and oxygenates the skin, fighting signs of
skin and leaves a velvety, soft-matte look with no white residue.
fatigue such as under-eye darkness and dullness of the skin. Micro-
Sea buckthorn oil and coconut-derived ingredients provide excel-
circulation is increased, giving a healthy glow. The natural vitamin
lent moisturization, while zinc oxide protects from UVA and UVB
D content of the skin is boosted. Inflammation is extinguished for
rays. Vitamin E and sea buckthorn oil provide antioxidant protec-
a more homogenous skin tone. Containing BioAz Cosmeceutical,
tion and anti-inflammatory properties while promoting elasticity.
a live probiotic that balances the microbiome, the serum calms
Covabead Crystal provides HEV (blue) light protection and a lovely
the skin and reduces signs of inflammation and infection. It also
blurring effect, so you’re protecting your skin from indoor damage
leverages the brain-skin connection.
and making it look better at the same time.

One Truth 818 Serum - Chase Life Extension

INGREDIENT BLENDS
Foundation Ltd. T/A One Truth 818 Metaupon EZ Amibio - Vantage Personal Care
Created by Rachael D'Aguiar, One Truth 818 Serum contains Metaupon EZ Amibio is a gentle, biodegradable, sulfate-free liquid
the cornerstone ingredient, TAM-818, a groundbreaking active surfactant system designed to benefit hair and skin. It demon-
compound scientifically proven to activate telomerase, an enzyme strates high foaming performance without the need for a co-sur-
crucial for reversing cellular aging. One Truth 818 Serum exclu- factant. It not only provides exceptional frizz control, but also
sively contains TAM-818, setting it apart from all other anti-aging enhances both wet and dry hair combability. It can also help boost
products. TAM-818 was discovered by Dr. Bill Andrews of Sierra skin hydration, and leaves skin feeling soft and silky. Its versatility
Sciences and proven to be over 200 times more potent at activating shines as an amphoteric surfactant, making it ideal for low pH
telomerase – the enzyme that protects and lengthens telomeres formulations such as acne and feminine hygiene products. It is a
– than its nearest competitor. Clinical testing at Abich Labs in Italy liquid and clear system, making compatible with cold-process and
confirmed its statistically significant effectiveness in reducing fine clear formulations.
lines and wrinkles, and improving firmness in 30 days.

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 Beekman 1802 Oil Control Range - systems, this unique formulation uses zinc oxide for mineral
Beekman 1802 protection. MicroSperse technology ensures a finer dispersion
of hydrophobic ingredients, making the sunscreen incredibly
Our oil control range is a complete three-step system designed lightweight and easy to apply. The result? A satin-like finish that
to target oily/combination skin without irritation. This line is feels luxurious on skin, without the dreaded white cast typically
clinically proven to eliminate oil and shine, control blemishes associated with mineral sunscreens.
and reduce the appearance of pores. Our 100% plant-based
formulas are powered by gentle yet potent ingredients such as
BioMilk, horny goat weed, niacinamide, glacier water, black tea Foam in the Sun Organic Sunscreen -
ferment and heptapeptide to effectively promote clearer, health-
ier skin without compromising the skin barrier.
DeWolf Chemical, An Azelis Company
Foam in the Sun Organic Sunscreen provides SPF 25 broad
spectrum protection for face and body without the use of aerosol
PROTOTYPE PRODUCTS/CHASSIS or BOV packaging. This stable low viscosity emulsion does not
require shaking and offers good foam stability and spreadability,
Smooth Glider Clear Deodorant - Inolex to ensure consistent application. With its unique texture, zero
This clear gel stick can be “applied and dried.” Elevate your white cast, excellent skin feel and quick dry down time, it is an
daily routine with a touch of luxury and efficacy. Experience a ideal solution for all, including the deepest of skin tones and
smooth glide and a uniquely powdery soft touch. With the blend children. Foam in the Sun Organic Sunscreen makes sun protec-
of LexFeel WOW DT and SustOleo TL, the formula embraces the tion approachable, fun and convenient and breaks the barrier of
motto "applied and dried," offering a premium experience of everyday use.
swift absorption for a dry yet moisturized underarm sensation,
without the need for silicones. Combat odors effortlessly with
Lexgard MHG Natural MB while enjoying the skin-safe soft cush- The SunCare Project - Seppic
iony film created by LexFeel 700 MB to trap odors effectively. Sun care is the most controversial cosmetic market due to rising
concerns toward the safety of some organic sun filters and
their negative impact on the oceans. However, consumers are
Hydra-Repairing Serum Stick - more and more aware of the importance of sun protection for
Vantage Personal Care their skin health. They ask for a new generation of eco-friendly,
aesthetic and inclusive high SPF products based on zinc oxide,
This portable stick emulsion soothes and softens dry skin from
meeting the needs of all skin types while limiting whitening
head to toe with a silky soft texture. It is infused with BP-Tri-
effects. Therefore, Seppic designed this inclusive, ocean-friendly,
luronic Acid A, a three molecular weight fraction of hyaluronic
high SPF sun care product based only on clean ingredients for
acid for 360 hydration of skin, and BP-Botanidew NMF, which
a new pleasant and comfortable experience elevating the future
reinforces the primary function of the skin’s NMF. Suitable for
of beauty.
all skin types, especially sensitive skin, the stick is formulated
without silicone yet without compromising on a comfortable
glide, thanks to the combination of natural Jeechem NDA
alkanes and natural jojoba esters. Soothing Ingrown Hair Treatment -
ROSS Organic, an Azelis Company
The formulation was designed by surveying 2,500 U.S. con-
sumers to better understand preferences and needs across This multipurpose roll-on ingrown hair treatment delivers
each generation. targeted, mess-free relief. It absorbs quickly, clearing out
pores to soothe and improve visual imperfections. Suitable for
intimate regions, underarms, face, scalp and legs, it uniquely
Hand Savior Ointment - Vantage Personal Care treats infections caused by ingrown hairs while also slowing
new hair growth with continued use for smoother skin. Aligning
Hand Savior Ointment is a protective hand ointment with with psychodermatology, it reduces discomfort and subsequent
softening and moisturizing properties thanks to the sensitive psychological distresses like anxiety and self-consciousness.
skin-friendly combination of Liponate Jojoba 20 and Biosignal Positioned in the beauty rather than medical category, it feels
Lipid 10. It is also formulated with our Strataphix antioxidant less like a treatment and more like a post-cleanse step in a daily
technology, to help reduce the appearance of UV-induced age ritual, yet still delivering efficacious results.
spots and texture. With less than 20% water, this ointment
is highly nourishing yet leaves a fresh sensation on skin and
doesn't impart a greasy feel. The formulation was designed by BakuLipid - Lipoid Kosmetik AG
surveying 2,500 U.S. consumers to better understand preferenc-
es and needs across each generation. In the cosmetic industry, retinol stands out as a powerful
anti-aging and anti-blemish ingredient yet may cause skin
irritations. Hence, plant-based alternatives such as bakuchiol are
MicroSperse Mineral Mist SPF 50+ - gaining popularity as gentler options with comparable effective-
ness. With BakuLipid, Lipoid Kosmetik introduces a distinctive
Leading Edge Innovations blend of bakuchiol obtained from seeds of Psoralea corylifolia
MicroSperse Mineral Mist SPF 50+ is an emulsifier-free, BOV and unsaturated phospholipids. Unsaturated phospholipids as
sprayable, patented mineral sunscreen offering SPF50+ protec- potent skin penetration enhancers are perfect partners to ampli-
tion. Unlike typical BOV sunscreens that use organic UV filter fy the cosmetic potency of bakuchiol. BakuLipid revolutionizes
the treatment of skin blemishes and aging, uniquely combining
bakuchiol and phospholipids for superior results and visibly
The 2024 Celebration clearer, younger skin.
Be sure to check out all of our 2024
event coverage in your May edition.

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 Danger Jones Gloss Toners with Bonder -
Danger Jones
Our zero-lift Gloss Toners with Bonder process in 10 min or less, and
leave the hair soft, shiny and in peak condition. They feature three
unique key ingredients: apple cider vinegar (high shine), chia seed
oil (reduces color fading) and a vegan bonder in all 56 shades. This
unique creamy consistency gives stylists total control. Colors blend
seamlessly (no hard lines) with either a bottle or tint brush, leaving vi-
brant and shiny color deposit. The luxurious soft touch packaging with
rose gold foiling includes a global-friendly shade numbering system.
The on-cap sticker is an exciting utility innovation, improving storage
options. Pairing developer.

Happy Scrubs Shapeable Exfoliator - BASF

Rediscover the joy in beauty with this gentle exfoliator, bringing the
beach to your bathroom sink. Scrub away the day with a fun, moldable
approach to exfoliation. The Happy Scrubs Shapeable Exfoliator is all
about playful textures, evoking the feeling of sand between your toes
on a day at the beach. The yellow powder gently cleanses, provides
effective exfoliation, and leaves skin feeling soft and nourished. Made
from a combination of naturally derived ingredients, it is designed
to add a pleasurable sensation to the exfoliation experience. This
formulation gets its cleansing power from Texapon SFA UP PWD and Method Adaptation + New Data for Textured Hair
Jordapon SCI Powder, a pair of anionic surfactants.
Consumers - BASF
The development of methodologies to test curly and coily hair sub-
After Sun Soufflé - BASF strates plays a crucial role in screening ingredients to create effec-
tive formulas catering to diverse needs of textured hair consumers.
BASF’s After Sun Soufflé formula is a soothing and moisturizing
Through the modification and adaptation of in vitro techniques, vari-
formulation, designed to pamper the skin after a long day under the
ous aspects like wet combing, curl elongation and style manipula-
sun. Its unique blend of naturally derived biopolymers, Verdessence
tion were evaluated to screen ingredients in a reproducible manner
Glucomannan and Verdessence Xanthan, combined with soft skin feel
within formulations. This enables the identification of optimal can-
emollient Cetiol C 5, creates a luxuriously soft and fluffy texture that
didates for different curl types, reducing the reliance on extensive
feels playful and nourishing. Enriched with BASF’s powerful skin care
consumer evaluation of multiple prototypes. Additional efforts have
actives, Hydrasensyl Glucan Green and Lys’Sun, this soufflé formula
been made to associate in itro claims data with consumer-relevant
delivers extra hydration and soothing benefits to the skin. Emulgade
language that describes the achieved benefits and claims.
Verde 10 MS serves as the primary o/w emulsifier and provides a light
and delightful skin experience.
Measure it to Master It: Product Carbon Footprint
Azelaic Acid + BHA Spot Treatment - - Croda Beauty
Vantage Personal Care Croda Beauty has developed a tool to automate the calculation
of cradle-to-gate product carbon footprints for the majority of its
This treatment features Curazelic 44, our newest staple active ingre-
Beauty Care portfolio, which has been verified externally. With this
dient to target multiple symptoms of troubled skin. This ingredient
tool, we're analyzing material hot spots within our portfolio. This
works in support of Curcylic 40, our pre-solubilized salicylic acid
analysis provides detailed insights, helping us to identify areas
technology, which works to improve the appearance of the skin.
where we can make our ingredients more sustainable. This might
Paired with Liponate Jojoba Natfilm, it helps to soothe inflamed skin.
involve changing the materials we use, or altering our manufactur-
The formulation was designed by surveying 2,500 U.S. consumers to
ing processes. In summary, Croda's PCF initiative has not only driv-
better understand preferences and needs across each generation.
en reductions in carbon emissions, but has also catalyzed positive
change across the industry, empowering partners and brands to
make informed, sustainable decisions.
TESTING METHODS/TOOLS and DEVICES
Ingredients Revealed Digital Service - BASF
Magic Moon Eye Evolution - Metamorphosis Light
BASF's Ingredients Revealed digital service drives the transition of
the personal care industry to greater transparency, offering more Therapy, LLC
sustainable and ecologically conscious solutions that align with Flat-lying, hands-free and FDA 510(k)-cleared, these twin-power-
current consumer values. Due to its intuitive handling, the service house wrinkle-reducing devices fight the breakdown of collagen
offers an immersive customer experience that goes beyond traditional and deliver hygienic, precise and zoned skin care. Magic Moons
interfaces and accelerates the product development process. As part deeply target multiple wavelengths of light to boost collagen,
of BASF’s D'Lite digital service platform and Beyond Beauty campaign, support elastin, and smooth texture and uneven skin tone while
Ingredients Revealed allows access to BASF's extensive formulation diminishing puffy bags and dark circles in the delicate eye area.
database and provides formulators a digital lab to identify and refine These faders of fine lines, wrinkles and crow's feet are innovative,
formulations to meet project targets and consumer needs. safe and effective, rechargeable and recyclable, with 1,000+ hours
of at-home use for Red-Carpet-Ready eyes. The sleek, hard-case
charging compartment allows the customer easy operation, with a
3-min timing feature for a world-class experience.

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 Regulatory | C&T

KEY POINTS
• This article looks to changes in 2025-
2026 to the status of ingredients in the EU
and UK.
• Examples include nanomaterial and UV filter
bans/restrictions, limits on actives, labeling
formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and
allergens, ecodesign and others.

European Regulatory Update

Cosmetic Ingredient
Changes Coming in
2025-2026
A
Image by Pixel-Shot at Adobe Stock

s we approach the end of the year, this article looks

ahead to the anticipated changes in 2025-2026
Emma Meredith, Ph.D. to the status of ingredients in both the European
Union and Great Britain.
CTPA, London

EU Nanomaterial Bans, Restrictions

A number of regulations have been published in 2024 by the
European Commission in its Official Journal regarding ingredients in
nano form.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

24 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024
© 2024 Allured Business Media.

CT2411_12_Regulatory_Meredith_DM.indd 24 10/21/24 5:24 PM

 EU Regulation 2024/858 bans nano materials
such as styrene/acrylates copolymer, copper,
colloidal silver, gold and platinum.

Nanomaterial bans: Regulation • Platinum (nano), colloidal platinum (nano)

2024/858 on nanomaterials adds the fol- and acetyl tetrapeptide-17 colloidal plati-
lowing nanomaterials to Annex II of the EU num (nano).
Cosmetic Products Regulation EC 1223/2009 The “placing on the market” deadline is
(CPR), therefore banning them for use in Feb. 1, 2025, while the “making available on the
cosmetic products: market” (off shelf) deadline is Nov. 1, 2025.
• Styrene/acrylates copolymer (nano), sodium
styrene/acrylates copolymer (nano)
• Copper (nano), colloidal copper (nano) Want More from
• Colloidal silver (nano) this Author?
• Gold (nano), colloidal gold (nano), gold Check out EU, UK Defra Lock Down
thioethylamino hyaluronic acid (nano), Deforestation Regulations in our
July/August 2024 edition.
acetyl heptapeptide-9 colloidal gold (nano)

Vol. 139, No.

Reproduction 10 | November/December
in English 2024
or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2024 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries | 25

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 Regulatory

Nano-hydroxyapatite restrictions: non-nano and nano forms. The nanoform

In addition, nano-hydroxyapatite is added is only allowed for purity ≥ 97%, with
to Annex III of the EU CPR and therefore a median particle size D50 (50% of the
restricted for use under specific conditions, number below this diameter) ≥ 50 nm of
outlined as follows. number size distribution. Furthermore,
• Hydroxyapatite (nano) is permitted in the nano form cannot be used in applica-
toothpaste at 10% and in mouthwashes at tions that may lead to exposure of the
0.465%, given the below characterization end user’s lungs by inhalation. In case of
restrictions. It is not permitted in applica- combined use of both the non-nano and
tions that may lead to exposure of the end nano forms, the sum concentration shall
user’s lungs by inhalation. not exceed 10%.
• Only nanomaterials having the following Regulation 2024/996 amended the following
characteristics are allowed: annexes to the CPR as outlined below.
° Composed of rod-shaped particles, of Annex II is amended as follows:
which at least 95.8% (in particle num- • The UV filter 4-methylbenzylidene camphor
ber) have an aspect ratio less than 3 is added to Annex II, and therefore banned
and the remaining 4.2% have an aspect from use in cosmetic products. The placing
ratio not exceeding 4.9 and on the market deadline is May 1, 2025 and
the making available (off-shelf) deadline is
° The particles are not coated or
May 1, 2026.
surface modified.
Annex III is amended as below:
The placing on the market in this case is
• Retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate
Feb. 1, 2025, and the making available on the
can be used in body lotions at a maximum
market (off shelf) deadline is Nov. 1, 2025.
concentration of retinol equivalent (RE)
EU CPR Ingredient Annex of 0.05% and other leave-on and rinse-off
products at a maximum concentration of
Amendments, Bans RE of 0.3%. These cosmetic products must
Regulation 2022/2195 dated Nov. 10, 2022, be labeled with the warning: “Contains Vita-
amended the following annexes to the CPR. min A. Consider your daily intake before
Annex III now includes the below entries: use.” The placing on the market deadline is
• Acid yellow 3 is restricted for use in non- Nov. 1, 2025 and the making available (off-
oxidative hair dye products at 0.5% (entry shelf) deadline is May 1, 2027.
82 of Annex IV still applies if the ingredient • Genistein can be used in cosmetic products
is used as a colorant). The placing on the at a maximum concentration of 0.007%.
market deadline for non-oxidative hair dyes The placing on the market deadline is
containing this ingredient was July 1, 2023, Feb. 1, 2025; the making available (off-
and the making available on the market shelf) deadline is Nov. 1, 2025.
deadline (off-shelf) was Jan. 1, 2024.
• Daidzein can be used in cosmetic products
• Resorcinol, entry 22, is corrected in column at a maximum concentration of 0.02%. The
i(a) by changing the last sentence from “Do placing on the market deadline is Feb. 1,
not use to dye eyelashes or eyebrows” to 2025, while the making available (off-shelf)
“Do not use to dye eyelashes.” deadline is Nov. 1, 2025.
Annex VI is amended as below: • Kojic acid can be used in face and hand
• Homosalate is allowed for use at 7.34% cosmetic products at a maximum concen-
in face products, with the exception of tration of 1%. The placing on the market
propellent spray products. The placing on deadline is Feb. 1, 2025 and the making
the market deadline is Jan. 1, 2025, and the available (off-shelf) deadline is Nov. 1, 2025.
making available on the market (off-shelf)
• Alpha arbutin can be used in face cream
deadline is July 1, 2025.
at a maximum concentration of 2%, and
• Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) body lotion at a maximum concentration
piperazine is included for use as a UV filter of 0.5%. Furthermore, hydroquinone levels
in cosmetic products at 10%, both in the shall remain as low as possible in formula-

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 tions containing alpha-arbutin and shall at ≤ 1 ppm. This ingredient cannot to be
not be higher than the unavoidable trace used in toothpaste intended for children
level. The placing on the market deadline under six years of age. Therefore, tooth-
is Feb. 1, 2025, and the making available paste containing triclocarban must have
(off-shelf) deadline is Nov. 1, 2025. the following warning: “Not to be used for
• Arbutin can be used in face cream at a children under 6 years of age.”
maximum concentration of 7% but again, • Triclosan can be used in toothpastes, hand
hydroquinone levels must remain as low soaps, body soaps/shower gels, deodorants
as possible in formulations containing (non-spray), face powders and blemish
arbutin and must not be higher than the concealers, products for cleaning the finger-
unavoidable trace level. The placing on nails and toenails before the application of
the market deadline is Feb. 1, 2025. The artificial nail systems at a maximum con-
making available (off-shelf) deadline is centration of 0.3%. This ingredient cannot
Nov. 1, 2025. to be used in toothpaste intended for chil-
Annex V is amended as follows: dren under three years of age. Therefore,
• Triclocarban can be used in all cosmetic toothpaste containing triclocarban must
products with the exception of mouthwash have the following warning: “Not to be used
at a maximum concentration of 0.2%. for children under three years of age.”
Purity criteria include the presence of The placing on the market deadline for both
3,3’,4,4’-tetrachloroazobenzene at ≤ 1 ppm ingredients is Dec. 31, 2024, and the making
and 3,3’,4,4’-tetrachloroazoxybenzene available (off-shelf) deadline is Oct. 31, 2025.

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 Regulatory

Chapter III of the ESPR sets out a digital

identity card for products, components and
materials to store details on the product’s
environmental and sustainability credentials.

EU Labeling Change: hyde” where the concentration of formaldehyde in

the finished product exceeds 0.05%.
Formaldehyde-Releasing An opinion from the Scientific Committee
Preservatives on Consumer Safety (SCCS), the EU’s inde-
Annex V of the EU CPR lists the substances pendent scientific committee, in May 2021,
that may be used as preservatives in cosmetic recommended that the labelling concentration
products. Some Annex V preservatives release a be reduced from 0.05% to 0.001%.
very small amount of formaldehyde within the In 2022, the European Commission
product to protect against microbial growth. published Regulation (EU) 2022/1181 on the
Point 2 of the Annex V preamble requires: labelling requirements for cosmetic products
Image by fotofabrika at Adobe Stock

All finished products containing substances in containing formaldehyde-releasing preserva-

this Annex and which release formaldehyde must tives. The regulation amends the preamble to
be labeled with the warning: “contains formalde- Annex V of the CPR, to provide for: All finished
cosmetic products containing formaldehyde-
releasing preservatives to be labeled with the
Want More from warning: “releases formaldehyde” where the
this Author? total concentration of formaldehyde released
in the finished product exceeds 0.001%
Check out Sunscreen Labeling, REACH
and DEFRA, CMR Process, Product
(10 ppm), irrespective of whether the finished
Safety in our March 2024 edition. product contains one or more substances
releasing formaldehyde.

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 The deadlines for compliance were/are: July 31,
2024, for placing on the market and July 31, 2026, for
making available on the market (off-shelf).

EU Labeling Change:
Additional Fragrance Allergens
In July 2023, the European Commission published
Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 updating the labeling
requirements for fragrance allergens by adding more
than 80 to the list.3 The transition periods are July 31,
2026, for placing on the market and July 31, 2028, for
making available on the market (off-shelf).
Cosmetics Europe (CE, the European personal
care association) is working on an extensive guidance
to help companies comply with these requirements;
in particular, the use of the grouping name. This
legislation applies in the EU and Northern Ireland
only. It will not apply in Great Britain.

EU: 21st ATP to the

CLP Regulation
In January 2024, the European Commission pub-
lished in the Official Journal the 21st Adaptation to
Technical Process (ATP) to the Classification, Label-
ing and Packaging (CLP) Regulation. The regulation
entered into force on Jan. 25, 2024, and will apply
from Sept. 1, 2025.
The EU CLP aims to ensure a high level of protec-
tion of health and the environment, as well as the
free movement of substances, mixtures and articles.
The CLP Regulation is based on the United Nations’
Globally Harmonized System (GHS). It applies to all
EU Member States, European Economic Area (EEA)
countries and Northern Ireland (in accordance with
the Windsor Framework).
The CLP requires manufacturers, importers or
downstream users of substances or mixtures to
classify, label and package chemicals appropriately
before placing them on the market. It applies to
all substances and mixtures irrespective of the
volume supplied.
Finished cosmetic products (i.e., ready for sale to
the consumer) are exempt from the requirements of
the CLP Regulation. However, cosmetic ingredients
as raw materials or cosmetic mixtures (such as the
bulk of a cosmetic that is not in the finished state) fall
under the remit of the CLP Regulation; the European
Chemical Agency (ECHA) regulates and enforces the
CLP Regulation.
The 21st ATP amends Annex VI of the EU CLP
Regulation, adding more mandatory harmonized
classifications of chemicals. The amendments contain
new carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic (CMR)

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 Regulatory

classifications relating to the below cosmetic Annex III (list of restricted

ingredients. substances) outlines:
• Dimethyltolylamine, carcinogenic 1B – no • Methyl-Nmethylanthranilate (MNM) is
annex entry in EU Cosmetic Products allowed for use in cosmetic products at
Regulation (CPR), 0.1% in leave-on products, although the
• Diuron (ISO), carcinogen 1B – already ingredient cannot be used in sunscreen
banned from use in cosmetics in the EU, as products and products marketed for expo-
included in Annex II entry 1058 of the CPR, sure to natural or artificial UV light;
• Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, • MNM is allowed at 0.2% in rinse-off prod-
reprotoxic 1B – found in Annex III entry 311 ucts; and
of the CPR and • In both product types, MNM cannot be
• Cymoxanil (ISO); 2-cyano-N-[(ethylamino) used with nitrosating agents and the
carbonyl]-2-(methoxyimino)acetamide, maximum nitrosamine content must be 50
reprotoxic 2 – already banned from use in μg/kg; the product also must be stored in
cosmetics in the EU, as included in Annex nitrite-free containers.
II entry 1580 of the CPR. This provision implements an opinion from
Since these ingredients were not defended the Scientific Advisory Group on Consumer
by industry, the European Commission will Safety (SAG-CS) – the UK’s independent scien-
include these substances in Annex II (prohib- tific committee. The deadline for placing on the
ited substances) of the EU CPR via the seventh market was July 6, 2024, and the deadline for
CMR Omnibus Regulation. The making avail- making available on the market (off-shelf) is
able (off-shelf) deadline for products containing July 6, 2026.
these substances will be 18 months after Annex VI (list of UV filters permitted for use
publication of the 21st ATP to CLP. in cosmetics), following an opinion from the
The 21st ATP to the EU CLP will not auto- SAG-CE, specifies the UV filter Bis-(Diethylami
matically be included within the Great Britain nohydroxybenzoyl Benzoyl) Piperazine (HAA299)
(GB) CLP Regulation. To be included within GB and its nano form are allowed for use in cos-
CLP, it must first undergo independent scientific metic products under the below conditions:
scrutiny in the UK. • HAA299 at 10%, and in the case of com-
bined non-nano and nano forms, the sum
UK Annex Updates to the must not exceed 10%; and

UKCR Notified to WTO • HAA299 (nano) at 10% with the following

specific characteristics of the nanomate-
In 2023, the Office for Product Safety and
rial: purity ≥ 97% and the median particle
Standards (OPSS, the UK regulator for cos-
size D50 (50% of the number below this
metic products) notified to the World Trade
diameter) at ≥ 50 nm of number size
Organization (WTO) a regulation updating
distribution. It is also not to be used in
the annexes to the UK Cosmetics Regulation
applications that may lead to exposure of
(UKCR). Below are the changes to be imple-
the end user’s lungs by inhalation. In case
mented in Great Britain.

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 of combined non-nano and nano forms, 15 of the UKCR, where the ingredient would
the sum must not exceed 10%. need to be banned or restricted for use.
This provision was effective as of • Methylene di-t-butylcresol (CMR 1B) will
July 28, 2023. be added to Annex II of the UKCR,
• Methyl salicylate (CMR 2) will be
UK on Butylated defended for continued use by the UK
Hydroxytoluene (BHT) cosmetics industry and the ingredient
may be added to Annex III of the UKCR,
In April 2024, the OPSS published the
Statutory Instrument 2024 No. 455 updating • Methyl isobutyl ketone (MIBK) (CMR 2)
Annex III of the UK Cosmetics Regulation. will be added to Annex II of the UKCR,
The amendment restricts the use of butylated • Benzophenone (CMR 1B) will be added to
hydroxytoluene (BHT) in cosmetic products Annex II of the UKCR,
under the following conditions: • Theophylline (CMR 1B) will be added to
• in toothpaste at a maximum of 0.1%; Annex II of the UKCR,
• in mouthwash at a maximum of 0.001%; • Trimethylolpropane triacrylate (CMR 2)
• in leave-on oral care products at a maxi- will be added to Annex II of the UKCR,
mum of 0.001%; and • Melamine (CMR 2) will be added to
• in other leave-on and rinse-off products a Annex II of the UKCR and
maximum of 0.8%. • Margosa (Azadirachta indica) extract
The placing on the market deadline is (CMR 2) will be added to Annex II of the
Feb. 24, 2025, and the making available (off- UKCR
shelf) deadline is June 24, 2025. The application date for mandatory clas-
sifications is scheduled for the fourth quarter
GB Mandatory of this year (2024).
Classification List (MCL)
Notified to WTO GB Mandatory
Substances and mixtures placed on the Classification List:
GB market must be classified and labeled in Ingredient Additions
line with the GB Classification, Labeling and In 2024, the UK Health and Safety
Packaging (CLP) Regulation, wherein there Executive (HSE) added a number of chemical
are two types of classifications: mandatory substances to the GB MCL. This introduces
classification and self-classification. new mandatory classifications under Article
Mandatory classification has been made 37 of the GB CLP Regulation for these
legally binding within GB. It is equivalent to substances.
the harmonized classifications that exist under Below is a list of substances that have
the EU CLP. The mandatory classifications and INCI names and may therefore be used as
the accompanying hazard labelling (MCL) are cosmetic ingredients that have a proposed
listed in the GB mandatory classification and CMR classification, triggering Article 15 of
labelling list (GB MCL list). Where a substance the UKCR.
has an MCL for some or all hazard classes, • 2-ethylhexanoic acid and its salts: reprot-
suppliers to the GB market must apply it. oxic 1B, of which
In 2023, the UK government notified to the
WTO the proposed amendments to the GB
MCL, which will introduce new mandatory
classifications under the GB CLP for a number Want More from
of substances. Below is a list of substances
this Author?
that have an INCI name and may therefore
Check out Brexit Freedoms Bill,
be used as cosmetic ingredients that have a
Siloxanes, Packaging, MoCRA Act
proposed CMR classification. Only the CMR and More in our June 2023 edition.
mandatory classification would trigger Article

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 Regulatory

° 2-ethylhexanoic acid is already found Ecodesign for Sustainable

in Annex II of the UKCR (entry 1024)
and it is already banned from use
Products Regulation (ESPR)
in cosmetics; Most readers have heard about the Ecode-
sign for Sustainable Products Regulation
° 2-ethylhexanoic acid nickel salt is
(ESPR), which is part of the European Green
already found in Annex II of the
Deal. It requires products to be made more
UKCR (entry 1460) and it is already
durable, reliable, reusable, upgradeable and
banned from use in cosmetics;
reparable; easier to maintain, refurbish and
° 2-ethylhexanoic acid zinc salt (INCI: recycle; and to be more energy and resource
Zinc Ethylhexanoate) does not have an efficient. In addition, it has been proposed
entry in the UKCR and may therefore that all regulated products should have Digital
be used as a cosmetic ingredient. This Product Passports (DPPs), which would allow
ingredient is therefore expected to for the tracking of substances of concern along
be banned for use in cosmetics and the supply chain and make it easier to repair or
added to Annex II of the UKCR. recycle products.
• Dimethyltolylamine, carcinogenic 1B – no The ESPR, Regulation (EU) 2024/1781,
Annex entry in UKCR. This ingredient is has now been published in the Official Jour-
therefore expected to be banned for use nal of the European Union and entered into
in cosmetics and added to Annex II of force on July 18, 2024. It sets out ecodesign
the UKCR. requirements for certain product groups and
The application date for harmonized clas- introduces DPPs as well as provisions on the
sifications is Sept. 2, 2025. destruction of unsold consumer products;
For any bans or restrictions to be imple- additional aspects of these are provided below.
mented under the UKCR, the OPSS must Cosmetic products have not been prioritized
publish a Statutory Instrument adding the in the first working plan. However, it is expected
substances to Annex II of the UKCR. Pos- that they will be listed as a product group for
sible transition periods will be established the second working plan. The product groups
through the corresponding annex amendment. that have been prioritized for the first working
However, according to the CMR process, it plan, to be adopted by April 19, 2025, are:
is expected that the placing on the market • iron, steel and aluminium,
deadline will be Sept. 2, 2025, and the mak- • textiles and furniture,
ing available on the market deadline will • tires,
be six months later; but deadlines can only
• detergents,
be confirmed when OPSS publishes the
Statutory Instrument. • paints,
• lubricants,
Tracking Ingredient Status • chemicals,
Divergence Between the • energy-related products for which ecode-
EU and UK sign requirements are to be set for the
It is inevitable that there will be some first time, or for which existing measures
divergence between the EU and UK on ingre- adopted pursuant to Directive 2009/125/EC
dient issues, as processes and priorities differ are to be reviewed under this Regulation,
between the two regions. In order to help with and
this, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery • information and communication technol-
Association (CTPA) has created a “divergence ogy products and other electronics.
table,” aiming to address the points of diver- Ecodesign requirements: The European
gence between the annexes of the EU CPR and Commission will adopt delegated acts to
the UKCR. The table is available as a down- supplement the Regulation by setting ecodesign
loadable PDF.1 The CTPA updates this table requirements. Where relevant to the product
as, and when, the two markets implement group concerned, the ecodesign requirements
different rules. may include the following aspects:

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 • durability, reliability, reusability, recy- • Commission work to begin near the end
clability, upgradability and repairability, of 2026,
• the presence of substances of concern, • with adoption near the end of 2027 and
• energy, water and resource use • entry into force in mid-2029.
and efficiency,
• recycled content, recyclability, Elections, Implications and
remanufacturing, maintenance and Conclusions
refurbishment,
This is a historic year in terms of elec-
• environmental impacts, including carbon tions. According to King’s College London,2
footprint and environment footprint and my alma mater, more than 50 countries are
• expected generation of waste. holding significant elections during 2024,
DPPs: Chapter III of the ESPR sets out including the European Union, the UK, the
the DPP, a digital identity card for products, USA, India and South Africa; 1.5 billion
components and materials, which will store people around the world will have had the
relevant information regarding the product’s opportunity to vote this year.
environmental and sustainability credentials. In June 2024, EU citizens voted for a new
The intention is to make it easier for consum- European Parliament and a new European
ers, manufacturers and authorities to make Commission was established. On July 4,
more informed decisions related to sustain- 2024, the UK went to the polls and at the
ability, circularity and regulatory compliance. time of writing this, we are still awaiting the
Information to be included in the DPP U.S. election.
will be product-specific and identified by the Trade associations are vital in ensuring
European Commission, taking into account that the voice of the industries they represent
the nature of the product and its market. This is heard, and this is even more important at
information can include: the time of a new government. The CTPA is
• the product’s technical performance, already engaging with the new UK govern-
ment, and Cosmetics Europe is continuing its
• materials and their origins,
active advocacy at an EU level. The Personal
• repair activities, Care Products Council will also likely con-
• recycling capabilities and tinue its public affairs work in the lead-up to
• lifecycle environmental impacts. and after the U.S. election.
I feel 2024 has gone in a bit of a blur but
Destruction of unsold consumer
so much has happened and many significant
products: The ESPR is also tackling the
events and changes have taken place. We look
destruction of unsold consumer products.
forward to 2025 with eager anticipation – and
Annex VII to the regulation provides a list
certainty that the year will not be a boring
of product categories for which the destruc-
one.
tion of unsold consumer products shall be
prohibited. At present, cosmetic products are
not listed in Annex VII; however, the Euro- References
pean Commission is empowered to adopt 1. CTPA. (Accessed 2024, Sep 25). UK cosmetics regula-
tions and amendments. Available at:https://www.ctpa.
delegated acts to amend the annex and add org.uk/uk-cosmetic-regulations-amendments
new products. 2. King’s College London. (2024). Poll to poll 2024: A year
Estimated timeline for cosmetics: of elections around the world. Available at: https://www.
As mentioned, cosmetic products are not kcl.ac.uk/poll-to-poll-2024

included in the first phase of the ESPR and 3. Journal of the European Union. (2023). Regulation (EU)
2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC)
there is not yet any official information No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the
about when the second stage will begin. Council as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in
Cosmetics Europe, the European personal cosmetic products. Available at:

care association, has previously estimated https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/

TXT/?uri=CELEX:32023R1545
the following timeline for a delegated act on
cosmetic products:

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 GENERATIVE AI, ZERO-
PARTY DATA, OMNICHANNEL
EXPERIENCES AND MORE:
DRIVERS AND
TRENDS FOR DIGITAL
TECH IN BEAUTY
Digital tech has created new spaces for the research, discovery and
experimentation of cosmetic products. This two-part Q&A with beauty tech
visionaries uncovers the drivers, trends, untapped potential and outlook for
such innovations in our industry.

Image by Summit Art Creations at Adobe Stock

“Companies are moving beyond the experi-

mentation phase and are beginning to scale
generative AI across the enterprise.”
Brent Ridge, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and Trisha Khanna, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist, show off the brand’s new exosome-powered Milk RX.

facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

30 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this

article is strictly prohibited. © 2024 Allured Business Media.
Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

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 | BY RACHEL GRABENHOFER, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Insights are provided by:
• Anastasia Georgievskaya (AG), CEO and founder, Haut.AI,
• Sofi Chernyak (SC), founder and creative director, MaquillAR Studio,
Editor’s note: Below is Part I of • Marko Matijevic (MM), founder and inventor, NINU Perfume,
this interview series. It uncovers drivers • Irina Mazur (IM), CPO and CMO, Revieve and
and trends for digital technologies in • Nick Howard (NH), director of global strategy, EveLab Insight.
beauty. Part II follows, and explores
the untapped potential and outlook for
such innovations.

L T
he appetite for digital
technologies today
is insatiable. Bain &
Company reported1 the
market for artificial
intelligence (AI)-related
software and hardware is expected
to grow between 40% and 55% from
2024 to reach $990 billion by 2027. The
source adds that related demand for
upstream components could rise 30%
by 2026, creating a data chip shortage.
“Generative AI is the prime mover
of the current wave of change, but
it is complicated [in part] … by the
need to adapt business processes to
deliver value,” the firm adds, in its fifth
Annual Global Technology Report.1
“Companies are moving beyond
the experimentation phase and are
beginning to scale generative AI across
the enterprise.”
The source Medium highlights2
that in today’s Digital Renaissance,
“… technology acts as the catalyst for
creativity and innovation.” How? Per
the source, by bringing the world to GenAI is transforming skin care try-ons. With just one picture, consumers can now see realistic predictions of
everyone’s fingertips through: how their skin will evolve over time if they use certain products. It’s a game-changer. Haut.AI
• Platforms like Pinterest and
Instagram showcasing global potential and outlook for such digital comes to beauty products. Consumers
talents and giving creators a vast innovations in our industry. want solutions that work right away,
pool of inspiration to dive into, tailored specifically to their skin, hair
• Other digital platforms that support and beauty needs. They don’t want to
collaboration beyond borders, C&T: What digital waste time or money on products that
• Easy access to digital creation tools technologies are trending might not be effective. It’s this desire
and education, and for immediate, tailored results that’s
in beauty and personal
• Offering consumers enhanced driving the push for more innovation in
experiences via augmented and
care and why? the beauty industry. This shift is driven
virtual realities. by advancements in AI and machine
Within this virtual realm, Personalization, Immediacy, Skin learning, which allow brands to offer
technologies have also opened digital Care Try-on via these personalized experiences.
portals for the research, discovery and Generative Predictive AI Another exciting development is
experimentation of beauty products. generative AI (GenAI) in skin care try-
This two-part Q&A with beauty AG: Personalization is a major on, such as SkinGPT technology. While
tech visionaries seeks to uncover the driving force. People are tired of the traditional augmented reality (AR)
latest trends, drivers, uses, untapped endless trial-and-error process when it has been great for trying on makeup

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 Research

or experimenting with hair colors, From this point of view, I believe that product recommendations and skin
skin care has always been a bit more one rising technological trend is the care routines. Yet, makeup brands
complicated. SkinGPT addresses this transformation of in-store and pop-up can also build AI advising into users’
by offering photorealistic, scientifically experiences. For example, many brands DNA, as did NYX in partnership with
backed predictions of how skin might are investing in augmented reality Snapchat earlier this year.
change over time with or without mirrors (digital screens projecting an
certain products. This gives users image from a live camera and digital Virtual and Interactive Try-ons,
a much deeper and more accurate elements and transformations added Hyper-personalization, Adaptive
understanding of what to expect from onto an original video) that can serve and Data-driven
their skin care routine. It goes beyond as exciting gateways to the brand MM: The beauty industry is
the simple filters you might see on universe, whether it comes to building embracing digital technologies such
social media, offering meaningful virtual try-ons for makeup, clothes as AI, AR and data analytics. AI is
insights that help consumers make and accessories, or immersive branded being used to create personalized
more informed decisions about the worlds within large screens. skin care routines and product
products they choose. Large-scale AR indoor and outdoor recommendations, while AR enables
enhances customer engagement, virtual try-ons. The rise of AI, in
Transforming Retail Experiences: making the shopping experience more particular, is crucial as consumers
AR Mirrors, Personalization, memorable, encouraging foot traffic demand hyper-personalized products.
DNA-based Recommendations and fostering a stronger connection NINU capitalizes on this trend by
SC: For four years, since the day I between consumers and brands, offering personalized fragrances that
started my agency, MaquillAR Studio, leading to a 7% to 40% increase in sales adapt to individual body chemistry
we have been closely watching, and customer loyalty. using AI algorithms, making it highly
exploring and pioneering technology Another highly relevant use case relevant to current consumer needs.
trends in beauty, as nothing evolves of technology today is AI-driven AI and personalization are trending
faster than the innovation industry and personalization and skin analytics. due to the demand for tailored
inspires us more to be on the edge of We can use AI nowadays to determine experiences, and digital technologies
the new. the health of the skin and address provide a more interactive, engaging
concerns, providing personalized and data-driven approach to beauty.

Image courtesy of Revieve

Revieve’s beauty tech platform leverage advanced machine learning algorithms to analyze consumer data and try-on insights, crafting in-depth,
customized skin care and beauty routines. Revieve

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 Generative and Conversational AI, As the beauty and personal care user has] a camera, which is hardly a
Zero- and First-party Data, industry embraces these technologies, barrier nowadays.
Intuitive Experiences consumers can look forward to a future In a similar way, GenAI is
IM: As consumers’ beauty and where their interactions with brands transforming skin care try-ons. With
personal care needs continually evolve, feel more intuitive, immersive and just one picture, consumers can now
digital technologies like AI, AR and intimately aligned with their unique see realistic predictions of how their
now Generative AI are transforming needs and desires. skin will evolve over time if they use
the way brands and retailers engage, certain products. It’s a game-changer
connect and build lasting relationships because it allows them to make an
with their customers. AI and AR
Personalized Care and AI, AR and immediate and informed decision
have long been at the forefront of
At-home Devices about whether a product is worth
personalization, enabling innovations NH: In our experience, innovation the investment — all from their
such as skin analysis, virtual try-ons and and technologies often emerge to serve personal device.
virtual shopping assistants to deliver the needs and wants of the consumer.
tailored product recommendations and Recent technology trends are no Self Exploration,
personal care solutions that align with different. Personalization has been a Digital Consultation
individual goals. Solutions like Revieve’s key topic for the beauty and personal SC: Imagine stepping up to an
beauty tech platform leverage advanced care markets for nearly a decade, and AR mirror, where the magic of
machine learning algorithms to analyze the technology enabling personalized augmented reality brings products
consumer data and try-on insights, experiences is finally catching up to the and surrounding space to life. These
crafting in-depth, customized skin care desires of the consumer. The modern mirrors are not just reflective surfaces;
and beauty routines. consumer understands their skin they are portals to brand interaction,
The recent emergence of Generative conditions better than any generation sparking a sense of inclusion into
AI is pushing these advancements even before them, and they want to know the brand history. Users are left
further. By integrating Conversational AI what works, how it works and how it’s in awe as they go through virtual
and Generative AI, brands can provide tailored for their skin. transformations, interactions and a
real-time guidance, product education This has led to the adoption of kaleidoscope of creative possibilities in
and inspiration-driven shopping several emerging technologies by the their power to control.
experiences that elevate consumer beauty market, such as AI, AR and Imagine, you could become the
engagement. Generative AI blends regulatory-approved “at home” versions face of one of the largest brands in
different beauty elements — skin care, of equipment often found in aesthetic the world as you are gracing their
makeup and fashion — into a unified and dermatology clinics. billboard; imagine your favorite
experience, creating a truly immersive celebrity makeup artist could do your
and personalized beauty fusion. C&T: How are beauty makeup; imagine you can change
What sets this new wave of technology your outfit just in one swipe; imagine
consumers using digital
apart is the ability to harness zero and you could create and interact with
technologies? a magical virtual universe without
first-party consumer data. This data
offers brands a profound understanding leaving reality.
of their audience, empowering
Convenience, Predictive Efficacy But the journey doesn’t stop
them to create hyper-personalized AG: Let’s take AI Skin Analysis there. With the rise of virtual try-on
experiences that go beyond generic technology, for example. Users can technology and AI advising, consumers
recommendations. By leveraging these simply take a photo of their skin using are empowered by having a personal
insights, brands can tailor solutions to their personal devices — something as beauty consultant at their fingertips,
meet the specific needs, preferences and accessible as their smartphone — and guiding them through an exquisite
aspirations of their consumers, helping receive a comprehensive analysis. The array of products tailor-picked for
them stand out in an increasingly algorithms, trained on vast amounts of them. Today’s technology allows for
competitive landscape. These scientific data, can assess everything deeper self-exploration and solution-
innovations bridge the gap between from pore levels to fine lines and finding, instilling confidence in users as
physical and digital realms, allowing wrinkles. Based on this data, users get they make more informed decisions.
consumers to experience a more tailored product recommendations that
customized, educational and engaging match their specific skin profile. The Virtual Try-on, IoT Personalization,
beauty journey that continues to evolve beauty of it is that this personalized Social Media and Tracking Use
with them. experience doesn’t require a trip MM: Beauty consumers use digital
to the store; it’s all done from the technologies in various ways:
comfort of home, as long as [the

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 Research

advisors that not only guide them,

but provide real-time, in-depth
insights about their unique needs
and preferences.
One standout feature is the ability for
consumers to virtually try on products
before making a purchase. Tools like
“Shop My Look,” developed through
partnerships like Revieve and Google
Cloud, allow users to preselect their
desired looks and try them on virtually,
whether they’re seeking a bold evening
look or something more natural. This
immersive experience lets customers
experiment with different styles, from
makeup to skin care routines, and
adjust their choices based on their
personal preferences. What used to
require physically visiting a store is
now available at their fingertips.
Brands and retailers can leverage
this technology to tailor their product
offerings, drawing from rich zero- and
first-party data. With access to these
insights, they can provide hyper-
customized product recommendations
NINU offers personalized fragrances that adapt to individual body chemistry using AI algorithms, making it
highly relevant to current consumer needs. NINU based on each consumer’s skin type,
preferences and beauty goals. Imagine
• Virtual try-ons: AR technology often demonstrate product use a skin care advisor that, after analyzing
allows consumers to try or offer recommendations. your skin through a simple selfie,
makeup, hair styles or skin • Tracking use: Smart packaging recommends a personalized routine
care products virtually without can track usage, remind users addressing your specific concerns,
physically applying them. to replenish products and whether it’s anti-aging, hydration or
• Personalized recommendations: even adjust settings based on acne. These technologies not only
AI-powered tools analyze skin patterns of use (e.g., NINU improve the customer experience,
type, preferences and concerns, adjusting fragrance). but also increase conversion rates,
offering tailored product as consumers feel more confident
recommendations. Omnichannel Experiences, purchasing products tailored
• Smart devices: Internet of Real-time Advice, specifically to them.
Things (IoT)-based beauty Increased Conversion Rates, Moreover, this wealth of data
devices like NINU’s smart Predicting Trends helps brands stay ahead of consumer
perfume allow users to IM: Beauty consumers today trends. By analyzing patterns in
personalize their fragrance are increasingly turning to digital what consumers are searching for or
experiences through technologies to enhance their virtually trying on, companies can
smartphone apps. Other experience and make informed quickly adapt and recommend the
examples include skin care decisions about cosmetic and personal best products for each shopper. For
tools that analyze hydration care products. These innovations have example, they can identify seasonal
levels or skin conditions and transformed the way people explore trends, like more dramatic makeup
offer recommendations. beauty, bringing personalization, looks leading up to the holidays
• Social media and influencers: convenience and creativity to the or a spike in demand for sun care
Image courtesy of NINU

Consumers engage with beauty forefront. Through the integration products during the summer months.
brands through social media of advanced AI and AR experiences, This ability to deliver timely, relevant
platforms where influencers customers now have access to virtual recommendations builds trust and
skin care, makeup and hair care loyalty with consumers.

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 These technologies create an time to track the future of AI as it
omnichannel beauty experience that becomes more embedded into the
integrates online shopping, in-store beauty market.
visits, and virtual interactions into There are two other innovations
a seamless journey. Consumers can worth noting. Augmented Reality
begin their search for a new skin care (AR) was an earlier trend that
routine online, try it out virtually, allowed consumers to try on
and then head to a store to make the makeup virtually before buying.
final purchase — all while receiving While this innovation is no longer
personalized recommendations every the most hyped topic, it’s important
step of the way. to note that AR has permeated every
Ultimately, the combination of beauty counter globally to shift from
virtual try-ons, digital skin care a trend to a norm.
and hair care advisors, paired Finally, a new suite of regulatory-
with AI-powered insights and approved technology solutions for
consumer data, not only enhances use at home, such as LED masks
the shopping experience, but also and facial lasers, allows for a
empowers consumers to make whole new realm of possibilities
informed decisions. By giving them for consumers developing their
the tools to explore products in a daily or weekly skin care routines.
highly personalized and interactive These technologies continue to
way, these technologies are shaping trend because they enhance the
the future of beauty, where every in-store and at-home experience,
customer’s experience is unique, making it more fun and relevant to
immersive and data driven. consumer needs.
Editor’s note: continue to Part
AI-driven Recommendations, II (on the next page) to explore the
AR as the ‘Norm,’ At-home untapped potential and outlook for
Devices to Enhance Experiences digital tech in beauty to advance
NH: In today’s beauty scene, several product development.
exciting technologies are saying the
market’s hunger for personalized References
solutions. A clear standout, AI Bain & Co. (2024, Sep 25). Market for AI
has become the new focus of both products and services could reach up to
the industry and consumers by $990 billion by 2027, finds Bain & Co.’s
5th annual Global Technology Report.
offering personalized skin care Available at https://www.bain.com/about/
recommendations. Many consumers media-center/press-releases/2024/
are tracking the health of their skin market-for-ai-products-and-services-could-
reach-up-to--$990-billion-by-2027-finds-
and AI skin analysis tools give them bain--companys-5th-annual-global-
a simple yet powerful way to better technology-report/
understand their skin progression. Nayak, B.K. (2023, Oct 6). The Digital Renais-
AI is not replacing Beauty Assistant sance: How technology fuels creativity
in the modern age. Available at https://
(BA) at the beauty counter; rather, it is medium.com/bkcreatives/the-digital-renais-
providing a powerful tool that allows sance-how-technology-fuels-creativity-in-
each BA to provide their customers the-modern-age-fb7b184a4e91

with personalized recommendations

and tailored beauty routines. Within
beauty and personal care, AI is
still in its infancy. It’s an exciting

Want More Digital Tech?

Click here to flip to Lifestyle Integration, Body Skin AI, Gamification,
Data Security and More: Digital Tech to Move Beauty Forward.

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 Research

LIFESTYLE INTEGRATION,
BODY SKIN AI, GAMIFICATION,
DATA SECURITY AND MORE:
DIGITAL TECH TO
MOVE BEAUTY
FORWARD Consumers will be able to
generate unique makeup looks
or skin care routines based on
preferences. Beauty brands
could use this technology to
create dynamic products that
adapt to real-time conditions
like weather or skin health.

Image by wetzkaz at Adobe Stock

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 Editor’s note: Below is Part II of this | BY RACHEL GRABENHOFER, Cosmetics & Toiletries
interview series. It explores the untapped
potential and outlook for digital With insights from beauty tech experts:
technologies in beauty innovation. Part I • Anastasia Georgievskaya (AG), CEO and founder, Haut.AI,
uncovered trends and their drivers. • Sofi Chernyak (SC), founder and creative director, MaquillAR Studio,
• Marko Matijevic (MM), founder and inventor, NINU Perfume,
C&T: What can product • Irina Mazur (IM), CPO and CMO, Revieve and
developers learn from • Nick Howard (NH), director of global strategy, EveLab Insight.
beauty consumers’ use of
digital technologies?

At-home Convenience,
Remote Clinical Studies wide shade selection; it’s about making aging and sun protection, while in
AG: I think today’s consumer each individual feel seen and letting other regions, there is a rising interest
behavior in beauty tech is all centered this translate through all channels and in skin barrier repair due to increased
around using advanced technology brand experiences. pollution levels. This segmentation
from the comfort of their home. We allows product developers to create
see a clear shift toward e-commerce Seamless, niche solutions tailored to specific
and at-home beauty experiences, Self-controlled Experience concerns. Instead of developing a
as consumers increasingly prefer MM: Beauty consumers are one-size-fits-all product, brands can
solutions that fit seamlessly into their increasingly using AR for virtual try- focus on designing targeted formulas
daily routines. ons, AI for personalized skin care — like sun protection with anti-aging
For product developers, this means or fragrance recommendations, and benefits for mature [consumers] or
that the focus should be on creating social media platforms for reviews and detoxifying skin care lines that shield
remote clinical studies that are easily tutorials. They expect convenience, against pollution.
accessible outside of a CRO (contract customization and a seamless digital Moreover, the integration of real-
research organization) office. Instead experience when exploring beauty time consumer feedback enables
of relying on complex processes, products. NINU integrates AI to offer product developers to be agile in
where the consumer needs to travel customizable fragrances, allowing adjusting formulations and improving
to facility – and spend at least 30 min users to create their unique scents with product efficacy. If consumers
[acclimating] their skin … – beauty ease via an app, giving them control consistently report dissatisfaction with
tech innovations need to be built into and personalization at their fingertips. certain product textures or scents,
devices or platforms consumers can brands can quickly pivot, reformulate
use at home This approach ultimately Behavioral Data, Demographic and even relaunch products that better
mimics how consumers experience Context, Real-time Feedback, align with consumer preferences.
products “in the wild.” Trends Forecasting For instance, if makeup users in one
IG: Product developers can draw region favor matte finishes while
Individualized, Inclusive Attention even deeper insights from consumer another market shows a preference
SC: First and foremost, it is about behavior data gathered through AI for dewy looks, developers can create
consumers’ call for personalization. and AR experiences, enabling them region-specific formulations, offering
Today we are in pursuit of products to refine their product strategies consumers the exact finish they desire
and brands that resonate with our at multiple stages of development. based on local beauty trends.
unique identities and as a result, both These technologies not only offer In addition, beauty tech innovations
technology and product development a comprehensive understanding allow product developers to forecast
teams must work together to cater to of individual preferences, but also future trends. AI-driven insights may
Image by wetzkaz at Adobe Stock

modern industry standards. provide valuable demographic and reveal subtle shifts in ingredient
One example of this is the Virtual environmental context, such as preferences, such as a growing demand
Try-On effect for the Invisible Cover regional climate, age-specific concerns for clean beauty, vegan formulations,
Foundation we designed for Catrice at and even lifestyle choices. or waterless skincare in sustainability-
MaquillAR Studio, which showcased a For example, AI can detect that driven markets. By spotting these
staggering line of 40 different shades. consumers in certain age groups are emerging trends early, developers can
Nowadays it’s not just about offering a particularly concerned about anti- proactively design products that align
with future market demands.

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 Marketing Intelligence

Tracking Consumer Needs, recommendations or even formulate C&T: How have digital
Targeting Lifestyles and Habits products for specific areas. technologies helped to
Brands are often reformulating
NH: AI not only enables a more improve beauty products,
unique consumer experience, but products for different skin tones and
ethnicities. Now, imagine if they could or enabled those that
when applied to data analytics,
companies can better track and further refine the products to improve previously seemed
predict consumer needs. This leads outcomes in different humidity impossible?
to more efficient R&D processes and or pollution levels. A brand could
even better product development. create a skin care line that includes Making Products Relevant,
When it comes to personalization, the customizable serums, where users can Uncovering New Chemistries,
products themselves aren’t the only select active ingredients based on their Speeding Up R&D
factor that will affect the consumer’s unique skin needs, like hydration, anti- AG: Since we’ve already touched
experience with the product. Lifestyle aging or acne treatment, depending on AI-powered skin assessment, it’s
(sleep/nutrition) and environment on how often they travel or where they worth noting how this technology goes
(temperature/humidity) can also are headed. This approach not only beyond just benefiting consumers — it
influence the consumer’s relationship empowers consumers to take control of also provides brands with a wealth of
with the products. By understanding, their skin care, but also fosters brand valuable data. These tools can collect
at a city or regional level, the habits loyalty by showing that the brand insights on skin concerns, trends and
and environment their customers understands and responds to their needs across different age groups, skin
live in, companies can use AI and specific requirements. types or even genders. Of course, all
skin analysis data to make better of this must be managed within the
guidelines of data protection and other
privacy regulations.
But for example, brands might
discover that a certain age group is
experiencing a rise in specific skin
concerns like hyperpigmentation or
dryness. With this kind of information,
they can tailor their product
development to better address these
issues, creating more targeted skin
care solutions. It essentially helps
brands innovate in ways that align
with real-world skin profiles, making
products more relevant and effective
for their audience.
In addition to data-driven insights,
AI is playing a transformative role in
discovering new molecules, which were
previously either undiscovered or too
complex to identify through traditional
methods. Machine learning algorithms
can analyze vast databases of chemical
compounds, identifying potential new
ingredients or active molecules that
have desirable properties for skin care,
such as anti-aging or hydration.
One of the key advantages of AI in
this process is its ability to predict
Image courtesy of NINU

how these molecules will interact with

In the case of NINU, AI technology plays a crucial role in the creation of personalized fragrances the skin. By modeling the molecular
that adapt to each user’s body chemistry. This level of personalization — providing more than 100 structure and simulating its effects
fragrance combinations — would have been impossible in traditional perfume manufacturing.
on different skin types, AI allows to
discover new compounds that are

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 more effective and safer, without the a store, creating a more immersive confidence, but also increases the
need for extensive physical trials early and interactive shopping experience. likelihood of purchase, as customers
in development. This can significantly 3D printing has also paved the way are better equipped to choose the right
speed up the R&D process, helping for bespoke beauty, allowing for on- products for their needs.
companies to bring new products to demand production of customized These innovations have also
market faster while reducing the costs products, such as foundations that accelerated product development and
associated with trial-and-error testing. match individual skin tones with innovation cycles. AI enables brands
extreme precision. to analyze consumer data at scale,
Transparency and Educating In the case of NINU, AI technology predicting trends and helping fine-
Consumers, AI-powered Design plays a crucial role in the creation of tune products that cater to specific
SC: Today we are [entering] into personalized fragrances that adapt to demands, such as clean beauty or eco-
the age of transparency. In a world each user’s body chemistry. This level of friendly formulations. The ability to
that’s becoming increasingly conscious personalization — providing more than simulate product performance digitally
of what we put on our skin, tools 100 fragrance combinations — would reduces the time and resources needed
like the Yuka app shine a spotlight have been impossible in traditional for traditional testing, leading to
on ingredients, edifying consumers perfume manufacturing, where mass- faster launches and more innovative
about potentially harmful substances market scents dominate. The ability product offerings.
lurking in their favorite products. to continuously adapt and customize Smart skin care devices are another
Technology that educates consumers based on data provides NINU with a leap forward, combining AI with
not only empowers individuals to make competitive advantage in delivering IoT technology to offer real-time,
informed choices, but also propels tailored experiences, which digital personalized skin care treatments.
the dominance of clean products. technologies make possible. These devices analyze skin conditions
Knowledge at consumers’ fingertips is daily, adjusting their treatments to
reshaping the industry and setting new Hyper-personalization, Immersive provide optimal care, something that
norms that were once thought to be an and Informed Shopping, Dynamic was once impossible. Hair care has
attribute of just a few outliers. Data-driven Approaches similarly benefited from AI technology,
Another trend of 2024 is the AI- IM: Digital technologies have with personalized hair solutions that
powered design. A prime example is completely transformed the cosmetics adapt based on environmental factors,
the Prada Paradoxe Digital Flower and personal care industry, making hair texture and scalp health.
perfume, where AI steps in to enhance what was once unimaginable now a Sustainability is also being enhanced
formulations. Today it’s a blend of reality. AI and machine learning are at by these technological advancements.
tradition and innovation that results in the core of this shift, allowing brands AI-driven insights into consumer
beauty brands that resonate with the to deliver hyper-personalized products preferences help brands create more
desires of modern consumers. and experiences. Skin care and makeup eco-conscious products, while virtual
solutions can now be customized to product testing reduces the need
Precision Innovation, match each consumer’s unique skin for physical samples and animal
Bespoke Beauty on Demand type, tone and concerns, ensuring testing, minimizing the industry’s
MM: Digital technologies have that products are as effective as they environmental footprint.
drastically transformed the beauty are tailored. What once required Data analytics have further
industry by enabling precision and expert consultations can now be done transformed how brands understand
personalization that were previously from home through AI-driven beauty and interact with consumers. By
unattainable. AI and machine learning advisors, offering real-time insights analyzing zero- and first-party data,
algorithms now allow for detailed skin into skin health and personalized brands can identify trends, optimize
analysis and personalized product product recommendations. product recommendations and tailor
recommendations based on individual The rise of virtual try-ons using AR marketing strategies to individual
needs and preferences. This has led to has redefined how consumers shop for preferences. This data-driven approach
the creation of skin care and beauty beauty products. From experimenting enables beauty companies to remain
routines that are uniquely tailored with different makeup looks to agile, quickly adapting to shifts in
to each consumer, boosting product visualizing how skin care products consumer behavior and delivering
products that align with emerging
Image courtesy of NINU

effectiveness and satisfaction. might affect their skin, consumers can

For example, virtual try-ons using now test and try before they buy — trends — whether it’s the demand for
AR have empowered consumers to creating a fun, immersive and informed minimalist, ingredient-focused skin
test different shades of makeup or shopping experience. This interactive care or bold, creative makeup looks.
hair color without ever stepping into approach not only boosts consumer

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 Research

AI Skin Analysis and C&T: What are key strict compliance requirements can
Precision Customization challenges to implementing limit the extent to which brands
NH: Digital technologies, especially can leverage insights to create more
digital technologies for the
AI skin analyzers, have revolutionized personalized and effective products.
beauty industry? Balancing innovation with regulatory
the beauty industry by enhancing
product development processes. compliance is a delicate challenge. In
Data Security and addition, it’s important for operators
These advanced tools provide
Compliance Restrictions, in this space to focus on data
detailed insights into individual skin
AI-ready Infrastructure transparency and quality, ensuring that
conditions, enabling R&D departments
to formulate products that are not AG: One of the biggest challenges, the data used to train AI models meets
only effective, but also tailored to particularly in the realm of AI, is the the ethical and legal standards required
specific needs. heavy reliance on data. Privacy and by these regulations.
For instance, an AI skin analyzer data security have become critical Another significant hurdle is the
can identify issues like uneven skin concerns, especially as regulations lack of infrastructure capable of fully
tone or excess oil production, guiding around AI and data usage continue embedding AI into brand ecosystems.
formulators to develop targeted to tighten, particularly in Europe. Many beauty companies don’t have the
ingredients that address those For example, while the General Data in-house technical capabilities to build
concerns. This level of precision in Protection Regulation (GDPR) and and integrate AI-driven solutions from
understanding skin efficacy ensures similar privacy rules are important for scratch. This is why more brands are
that new products meet consumer protecting consumers, they also create turning to turnkey solutions, like Haut.
expectations and deliver real results, hurdles in accessing and utilizing the AI, that provide the complete package:
making previously impossible data that fuels AI algorithms. front-end interfaces, back-end systems
customization a reality. Even when the data is anonymized, and AI engines.

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 A key challenge is balancing personalization and privacy, as brands and retailers can gain access to significant data about their customers using these digi-
tal technologies.

Affordability, Simplifying Design, to debunk the skepticism about the these issues by creating a user-friendly,
Early Market Failures efficiency and accuracy of digital portable fragrance device with refillable
SC: The beauty industry is facing projects with concrete metrics around cartridges, making it both sustainable
some growing pains due to the wallet- sales and engagement. and accessible to the mass market.
busting entry costs, which keep smaller
players watching from the sidelines.
Miniaturizing Hardware for Global Tech Savviness,
To address this, at MaquillAR, we
Portability, Making Tech Intuitive Privacy Protection
build Augmented Reality solutions MM: One of the biggest challenges IM: The beauty and skin care
in partnerships and on the basis of for NINU was developing the hardware. industry is constantly evolving, and
publicly available software of such We needed to shrink complex trends and preferences differ around
giants as Snapchat and TikTok. It’s technology into a compact, handheld the world. As seen in Revieve’s
opening doors for companies of device without compromising latest global skin care report, some
all sizes to join the virtual beauty performance. Miniaturizing the regions may embrace technological
revolution. In addition, AI capabilities components was crucial to ensure advancements more than others. For
are drastically simplifying digital portability and ease of use, which took example, Asia-Pacific beauty/skin
design, which soon could lead to substantial engineering effort. care consumers are mostly young,
further expansion of the horizons in Another challenge is balancing tech-savvy and heavily influenced by
digital world-building. advanced technology, like AI, with social media trends. These consumers
The second challenge stems from a simple, intuitive user experience. enjoy innovative and high-tech skin
trust issues arising from some early Consumers want innovation but it care solutions more than those
flawed experiences with beauty tech, must be easy to use. in other areas around the world,
both on the brand and consumer side. Cost and scalability are also which may present a challenge in
Image courtesy of Revieve

For example, some early virtual try-on concerns, as developing AI- developing and implementing digital
attempts often fell short of consumer driven solutions can be expensive. technologies worldwide.
expectations. Yet, regardless of the Additionally, data privacy is essential as Another key challenge includes
solution, it is not too late for the personalized beauty requires sensitive balancing personalization and
long-running players in the market information. At NINU, we addressed privacy, as brands and retailers can

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 Research

gain access to significant data about and security, especially since many Targeting Longevity Patterns,
their customers when using these technologies rely on personal data to Predicting Behavioral Factor,
digital technologies. This is why it is provide tailored recommendations. Body Skin AI
important to develop solutions that Additionally, integrating these AG: We believe the longevity trend
provide advanced privacy protection technologies seamlessly into existing will continue to grow, and AI will be
and security to ensure consumers’ product lines can be tricky and costly. instrumental in this. By identifying
trust. Revieve’s platforms include CCPA Brands also need to ensure their subtle age-related patterns and changes
and GDPR-compliant infrastructure target audience is comfortable using early on, AI can guide the development
for data transmission, processing and new tech, which can sometimes of new more effective anti-aging
storage to ensure safety and privacy of mean a learning curve for less tech- creams and procedures (as it is with
any data entrusted to Revieve. savvy consumers. drugs, right now).
We also anticipate AI systems
Seamless Integration, Data Privacy C&T: What new directions becoming capable of integrating
NH: While the potential is huge, do you see for digital a wide range of data sources to
there are challenges, too. One major technologies in beauty? offer highly personalized skin care
hurdle is ensuring data privacy solutions. These systems will consider

Consumers will be able to generate unique makeup looks or skin care routines based on preferences. Beauty brands could use this technology to create dynamic
products that adapt to real-time conditions like weather or skin health.

Image by Prostock-studio at Adobe Stock

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 behavioral factors (such as diet and skin care that evolves with the user will and sustainability. Future
physical activities) to provide proactive dominate. NINU fits into this future technologies could integrate
recommendations. For example, based by offering smart, adaptive fragrance beauty with overall wellness,
on an individual’s lifestyle, AI could solutions that evolve with the user’s offering recommendations
predict potential skin issues, such as preferences, combining technology that also support mental and
the likelihood of developing pimples, with lifestyle and customization physical health.
and proactively order specialized to meet the growing demand for 4. Sustainability and data-
treatments or products. This predictive personalized beauty experiences. driven innovation: AI will
capability will help prevent problems further drive sustainability,
before they arise. Advanced Personalization, optimizing ingredient sourcing
Another exciting frontier is the Interactivity, Minimizing and packaging solutions.
expansion of AI skin analysis beyond Over Production Personalized virtual try-ons and
the face. Body skin AI has the data-driven recommendations
potential to provide a comprehensive IM: As digital technologies evolve, will reduce waste by
understanding of skin around the the beauty industry is heading toward minimizing product returns
whole body. With this technology, more advanced personalization and and over-production, helping
consumers could receive tailored interactivity, with innovations such as the industry become more eco-
recommendations not only for face Conversational AI, Generative AI and friendly.
care, but also for body care products, voice assistants driving the future. 5. AI-powered customization:
including lotions, sunscreens and 1. Conversational AI and voice Finally, AI will refine its ability
treatments for specific areas. By assistants: Conversational AI to deliver hyper-personalized
offering this more holistic view of will make beauty routines beauty experiences, using data
skin health, body skin AI will help more accessible. Consumers to create customized routines
consumers maintain healthier, more can use voice assistants to ask that go beyond appearance to
radiant skin from head to toe, taking for skin care advice or makeup address lifestyle factors like
personalization in beauty to the recommendations, receiving sleep, stress and diet.
next level. tailored responses based on

Smarter and Adaptive Advertising,

their needs. Voice assistants Holistic Skin Care
could also guide users through
AR Glasses and Mirrors, routines and tutorials,
Recommendations,
Gamification enhancing convenience and Wearables to Track Skin Health
SC: In the coming years, we will personalization. NH: Looking ahead, digital
see: how AI gets smarter in adapting 2. Generative AI: Generative technologies in beauty may
to customers’ unique wants across AI will unlock new levels of increasingly focus on overall wellness.
all channels of advertising; how real creative expression. Consumers Imagine apps that not only recommend
world-focused brand experiences will be able to generate unique makeup but also offer holistic skin care
launch on massively adopted AR makeup looks or skin care routines, incorporating mental health
glasses; how AR mirrors get integrated routines based on preferences. tips and self-care practices. There’s
into more and more spaces; how in- Beauty brands could use this also potential for wearable devices that
home smart beauty devices bring technology to create dynamic track skin health in real-time, providing
us to daily customization of skin products that adapt to real- insights to help users maintain their
care routines; and how gamification time conditions like weather or best skin. The future could blend
across all aspects of life create deeper skin health. beauty with well-being, promoting a
knowledge about the consumer. 3. Ingredient transparency and more comprehensive approach to
holistic wellness: Consumers self-care.
Real-time Beauty Biohacking,
Image by Prostock-studio at Adobe Stock

are increasingly seeking

Technology x Lifestyle Integration transparency and wellness-
MM: In the future, AI-driven focused beauty. AI will
diagnostics, connected beauty help users dive deeper
ecosystems and biohacking for beauty into ingredients, providing
will drive the industry forward. Smart information on efficacy
beauty devices that automatically
adapt to user behavior and AI-based

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 Research | C&T

KEY POINTS
• Lanolin’s unique composition imparts
excellent skin moisturization in body care,
lip care and more.

• This paper reviews the composition,

safety and benefits of lanolin along
with plant-based alternatives to offer
formulators natural moisturizer solutions.

Kelly A. Dobos
Consulting Cosmetic Chemist and University of
Cincinnati, Cincinnati OH
Peer-reviewed

Ingredient Profile:
Lanolin and Plant-Based
Alternatives for Natural
Moisturization
Image by Alliance at Adobe Stock

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CT2411_12_Research_Dobos_fcx.indd 34 10/14/24 3:29 PM

 D erived from natural, renewable sheep’s
wool, lanolin has been used in cosmetics
for centuries. Its unique composition
and exceptional moisturizing properties
are useful in applications ranging from
lotions, creams, balms, etc., for body
care, lip care and more. In fact, the global lanolin market is projected to
increase at a CAGR of 4.2% from 2024 to 2030, driven by consumer prefer-
ence for natural and sustainable ingredients.1
Still, lanolin has faced challenges due to its claimed allergenicity
as well as its animal source. This has led to the development of lanolin
alternatives. Notably, reports of its sensitizing effects are controversial;
The present paper reviews the benefits of lanolin for
cosmetic formulations. It also offers select examples of
plant-based lanolin replacements.

Lanolin Composition and

Properties
Lanolin is a natural wax produced by the sebaceous
glands of sheep that forms a protective coating on their
wool fibers. Despite sometimes being referred to as
wool fat or wool grease, lanolin does not contain the
triglycerides that animal fats and seed oils do.3, 4
Lanolin is a complex mixture consisting primarily
dermatologist Albert Kligman, M.D., even claimed lanolin allergy to be a
of esters, diesters and hydroxy esters of aliphatic
myth.2 Furthermore, while lanolin can be certified as cruelty-free, it is not
alcohols/sterols (C12-C38) and hydroxy acids.4-6 It has a
considered vegan.

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 Research

Lanolin is highly similar in composition and

structure to human SC lipids. It acts as an
occlusive moisturizer by forming a barrier.
thick consistency that is attributed to the water is eliminated from the lanolin through
presence of long-chain fatty acids and alco- a vacuum-drying process, resulting in a pale,
hols, making it viscous and somewhat sticky. ointment-like substance.
Lanolin typically has a yellowish to amber
hue, although the color can vary considerably Lanolin Application in
depending on its purity and processing. Cosmetics and Drugs
Lanolin has a high similarity in composition
Lanolin Extraction and and structure with human SC lipids.10 It acts as
Refining an occlusive moisturizer by forming a barrier
Materials and techniques for refining lanolin on the skin’s surface, which helps to prevent
vary by manufacturer, so understanding the moisture loss. This barrier function is less
impact of these differences is important for pronounced than that of petrolatum, which can
interpreting specifications and performance.7 reduce TEWL by more than 98%, but lanolin
Lanolin can be obtained by the solvent extrac- still effectively reduces TEWL by 20-30%.11, 12
tion of wool fleece. It can also be derived by Lanolin has been shown to penetrate to the
scouring wool with soap or neutral detergent, stratum granulosum and incorporate into the
followed by either centrifugation of the result- lipid matrix surrounding skin cells, contribut-
ing emulsion and breaking of the emulsion ing to skin’s barrier properties.13 Its ability to
with acid, or production of foam (with air) and act as both a humectant and occlusive moistur-
collection of the froth. izing ingredient differentiates it from many
The crude form of wool wax is a darkly other moisturizers. The polar hydroxyl groups
colored, viscous paste, and while suitable for of sterols and alcohols enable lanolin to bind
industrial applications, it is refined to reduce water.13 Indeed, lanolin is known to absorb up
impurities, color, odor and taste prior to use in to 400% its weight in water to form stable w/o
cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.6, 8 emulsions. Highly emollient preparations of
Wool wax can be bleached with hydrogen this type were historically referred to as absorp-
peroxide but this may increase the peroxide tion bases, exemplified by the enduring success
value and be mistaken as rancidity. The process of products such as the Nivea Crème formulaa.
must be carefully controlled, following which Lanolin is listed as an active ingredient
additional treatments can be used to remove in the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s
residual organic peroxides. (FDA’s) skin protectant monograph and the
Small amounts of an antioxidant like skin protectant claim is permitted in combina-
butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) or tocoph- tion with other regulated product categories
erol are often added but regardless, lanolin like sunscreens, diaper rash creams, first aid
should be carefully stored and inspected antiseptics and external analgesics as long as
prior to use for signs of surface oxidation, the relevant rules are satisfied.14
which results in a darkening of its color.9 In
the last phase of refinement, any residual Lanolin Safety,
Allergen Fallacy
As noted, lanolin’s allergenic potential has
The global lanolin market is expected to been a source of controversy for decades.15
climb at a 5.9% CAGR from 2024-2034. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert
panel reviewed the safety of lanolin and lanolin
Source: Fact.MR
a
Nivea is a product of Beiersdorf Global AG

36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

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 Lanolin is listed as an active in the FDA’s skin protectant monograph and can be claimed as such in combination with other
regulated product categories like sunscreens, diaper rash creams, first aid antiseptics and external analgesics.

derivatives in 1980, 2003 and again more benefits; a few alternatives are reviewed below.
recently in April 2024, when the panel released Published data on the efficacy of ingredients
a tentative report for public comment. Each marketed as lanolin replacements is limited and
subsequent review brings forward any new cited where applicable.
safety data from published studies identified INCI: Soybean Glycerides (and)
through extensive literature searches as well as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
unpublished information provided by industry. Unsaponifiables: Unsaponifiable matter refers
In the most recent report, the panel refers to the components present in oils and fats that
to lanolin as a weak sensitizer although its cannot be converted into soap with alkali. These
prevalence as such in the general population compounds include phytosterols, tocopherols
is extremely low. This risk is further reduced and triterpenes.19 Shea butter is an excellent
when lanolin is ultra-refined. Overall, the CIR’s source for these compounds, as it contains 5
conclusion was, once again, that lanolin and to 10 times more unsaponifiable matter than
eight lanolin-derived ingredients are safe as typical vegetable oils.20 This composition shares
currently used in cosmetics.16 similar skin feel, structure, gloss, film-forming
and water-absorbing capacities as lanolin.
Lanolin Alternatives Excellent adhesion to skin also makes this a
Since the color, characteristic odor and taste strong choice for lip color applications.
of lanolin, along with its non-vegan status, INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea)
Image by JustLife at Adobe Stock

may be undesirable for certain applications, Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea
numerous plant-based alternatives have been
developed. Due to lanolin’s unique composition,
however, it can be challenging to fully replicate Want More from
the material’s properties.17, 18 this author?
Suitable replacements for lanolin ideally
Check out How Psoralens and Terpenes
have comparable water absorption, emulsify- Pose Hidden Allergic Potential in Botanical
ing capability, adhesion and skin-conditioning Extracts in our January 2024 edition.

Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 37

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 Research

Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables: A 6. Schlossman, M.L. and McCarthy, J.P. (1978). Lanolin and
its derivatives. J Amer Oil Chem Soc, 55(4) 447-450.
pale yellow to amber solid, glyceryl rosinate is
7. Danielle, D., McCabe, M. and Bourdillon, K. (2023). The
made by combining glycerol with long-chain impact of refinement on the sensory properties of lanolin. J
acids derived from rosin. Rosin is a sticky, Sensory Studies, 38(3) e12822.
amber to black colored resin derived from 8. Sengupta, A. and Behera, J. (2014). Comprehensive view
pine trees or other conifers. This material aids on chemistry, manufacturing and applications of lanolin
extracted from wool pretreatment. Am J Eng Res, 3(7)
in mimicking the tacky, adhesive characteris- 33-43.
tics of lanolin. When evaluated in an emulsion 9. Clark, E.W. (1999). The history and evolution of lanolin. In:
compared to lanolin, this combination of The lanolin book, Beiersdorf, pp 17 - 50.
ingredient provided similar organoleptic 10. Alonso, C., Collini, I., Martí, M., Barba, C. and Coderch,
qualities but did not match the prolonged L. (2021, Jun). Lanolin-based synthetic membranes for
transdermal permeation and penetration drug delivery
moisturization effects of lanolin.17 assays. Membranes. Available at https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.
INCI: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2: gov/pmc/articles/PMC8232266/
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (BDPA) is a 11. Purnamawati, S.; Indrastuti, N., Danarti, R. and Saefudin, T.
semi-solid palm-based ingredient consisting (2017). The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds
of dermatitis: A review. Clini Med & Res, 15 (3-4) 75- 87.
of complex esters of isostearic acid and adipic
12. Sethi, A., Kaur, T., Malhotra, S. and Gambhir, M. (2016).
acid. BDPA has demonstrated similar perfor- Moisturizers: The slippery road. Indian J of Dermatol, 61(3)
mance to lanolin in reducing transepidermal 279-287.
water loss, and comparative waterproofing 13. Clark, E. and Steel, I. (1993). Investigations into biomecha-
when additionally combined with propylene nisms of the moisturizing function of lanolin. J Soc Cos
Chem, 44 (4) 181-195.
glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate.21
14. U.S. FDA. (2021, Sep 24). U.S. FDA Over-the-counter
(OTC) Monograph M016: Skin protectant drug products
Conclusions for over-the-counter human use. (Posted September
24, 2021). Available at https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/
Lanolin remains a highly valued ingredient
drugsatfda_docs/omuf/OTCMonograph_M016SkinProtec-
in the cosmetics industry thanks to its excep- tantDrugProductsforOTCHumanUse09242021.pdf
tional moisturizing properties and ability to 15. Jenkins, B.A. and Belsito, D.V. (2023). Lanolin. Dermatitis,
mimic the natural lipids found in human skin. 34(1) 4-12.
While its naturally unique composition is not 16. CIR. (2024, Mar 4). Amended safety assessment of lanolin-
derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. Available at
easily substituted, plant-based replacements
https://cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Lanolin_0.pdf
are available that aim to replicate lanolin’s
17. Kunyk, O., Leal Filho, W. and Pasichnyi, V. (2024). Study of
water absorption and occlusive moisturizing the equivalence of substituting lanolin with a plant-based
properties. For the estimated US $11.02 billion alternative in cosmetic products. Sustainable Chem and
Pharma, 39, 101555.
and growing moisturizer market (5.34% CAGR
18. Osborne, D.W. (1993). Phase behavior characterization of
2024-2032),22 both offer timely renewable,
ointments containing lanolin or a lanolin substitute. Drug
sustainable and natural solutions. Dev and Indus Pharma, 19(11) 1283-1302.
19. Poljšak, N. and Glavač, N.K. (2021). Dermal effects of
unsaponifiable compounds: The overlooked perspective of
References
vegetable butters and oils. J Cos Sci, 72(2).
1. Grand View Research. (Accessed 2024, Sep 30). Lanolin 20. Akihisa, T., Kojima, N., ... Masters, E.T., et al. (2011).
market size, share and trends analysis report by derivative Triacylglycerol and triterpene ester composition of shea nuts
(lanolin alcohol, cholesterin, isopropyl lanolate), by applica- from seven African countries. J Oleo Sci, 60(8) 385-391.
tion (personal care and cosmetics, baby care products),
by region and segment forecasts, 2024 – 2030. Available 21. Kutz, G., Bruns, C., Hennig, S. and Enga, M. (2006). Cur-
at https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/ rent ingredients in semi-solid formulations and their effects
lanolin-market on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and water
resistance. In abstract: 5th World Meeting on Pharmaceu-
2. Kligman, A. (2007, Feb 14). The myth of lanolin allergy. tics Biopharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology.
Contact Dermatitis. Available at https://onlinelibrary.wiley. Geneva.
com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1998.tb05856.x
22. Fortune Business Insights. (2024, Sep 9). Moisturizer market
3. O’lenick, A.J., Jr., et al. (2008). In: Oils of nature, Allured- size, share and industry analysis, by type (face moisturizers
books, Carol Stream, IL USA. and body moisturizers), by form (cream, lotion and gel), by
4. Harris, I. and Hoppe, U. (2006). Lanolins. In: Dry skin and end-user (men, women, and infant and kids) and regional
moisturizers. Loden, M. and Maibach, H.I., eds. CRC forecast, 2024-2032. Available at https://www.fortunebusi-
Press, Boca Raton, FL, USA p 309. nessinsights.com/moisturizer-market-103869
5. Barnett, G. (1986). Lanolin and derivatives. Cosm & Toil,
101 23 - 44.

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 Research | C&T

KEY POINTS
• A meadowsweet extract is described
here to control Staphylococcus hominis
and its enzymatic activity that causes
axillary malodor.

• Novel meta sequencing and culturomics

techniques verified its effects and those
of a test deodorant containing it.

Image by Yakobchuk Olena at Adobe Stock

Reproduction in English or any other language of

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 Meadowsweet
to Control
S. Hominis and
Axillary Malodor
– As Shown by Meta Sequencing
and Culturomics
Laurie Verzeaux, Ph.D., Noémie Lopez-Ramirez, Ph.D.,
Editor’s note: This article originally Christine Grimaldi, Ph.D., Océane Guedj, Elodie Aymard, Ph.D.,
appeared in the Sept. 2024 issue and
Hélène Muchico and Brigitte Closs, Ph.D.
in some places, incorrectly referenced
meadowfoam as the extract source SILAB, Brive, France
when in fact it is meadowsweet. C&T

A
regrets the error.

Peer-reviewed

In addition to water and ions, the sweat

meadowsweet extract released by these glands also contains
is described here organic compounds such as proteins, sugars
to control Staphy- and lipids. Underarm apocrine glands are
lococcus hominis therefore an important source of nutrients
and its enzymatic for the cutaneous microbiota, promoting
activity that causes bacterial proliferation.
axillary malodor. Novel meta sequencing Sweat is odorless when it is secreted
and culturomics techniques were used to because its constituent molecules themselves
verify its effects and those of a test deodorant are odorless. Axillary malodor is caused by the
containing it. enzymatic degradation of sweat molecules by
From a physiological point of view, perspira- the cutaneous microbiota.11-13
tion is a natural process that regulates body Among the broad diversity of bacteria
temperature via the secretion of sweat.1 It is composing the cutaneous microbiota, some
produced by sweat glands, epidermal structures species stand out for their ability to trans-
that can exist as two types: eccrine and apo- form odorless secretions into volatile odor
crine. Eccrine glands are found over the entire products.3, 4 This is the case of Staphylococcus
body at birth and produce sweat composed hominis. This odor-generating property results
primarily of water and ions.2 Apocrine glands, from its ability to metabolize sweat com-
on the other hand, are associated with hair pounds thanks to specific enzymatic activities
follicles and develop at the time of puberty in such as those of C-S lyase.
certain specific zones such as the underarms, The enzyme C-S lyase reduces Cys-Gly-
mammary areolas or genital regions. 3M3SH into cysteine, glycine and 3M3SH, the

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CT2411_12_Research_Verzeaux_DM.indd 41 10/21/24 5:37 PM

 Research

The thiol nature of 3M3SH gives it a

significantly lower olfactory threshold, making
it the principal agent responsible for the
intensity of perspiration odors.
mechanisms involved in odor generationa. To
The natural deodorant market is projected to achieve such, a novel test model was devel-
reach US $163.19 million by 2030, growing oped to determine whether the production
at a CAGR of 8.23% from 2023. of malodorous molecules was the result of a
Source: Verified Market Reports quantitative modification of the microbiota
(dysbiosis) and/or a qualitative modification
(modified enzymatic activity of the microbiota).
These studies are described here.
latter being a particularly malodorous volatile
compound belonging to the family of thiols. Materials and Methods:
The thiol nature of 3M3SH gives it a signifi-
cantly lower olfactory threshold than other
Microbiota and
volatile compounds, making it the principal Odor Analysis
agent responsible for the intensity of perspira- Test model: First, 24 Caucasian volunteers
tion odors.3, 10 underwent an indoor calibrated sport session
Three main strategies have been used to stimulate the generation of perspiration odor
for decades to prevent odors arising from of distinctive intensity. The olfactory evaluation
perspiration: of t-shirt samples was conducted by a panel of
• preventing the secretion of sweat, experts qualified for sensorial measurement and
• masking odors or trained to note the presence and intensity of
odors of a sample on a scale from 0 to 4. This
• eliminating bacteria of the
evaluation was conducted on the same day as
axillary microbiota.5
the physical activity. This analysis established
Nevertheless, these strategies are currently a non-odorous group and a malodorous group
contested.6 The antiperspirant strategy is not (see Figure 1).
physiological since it prevents sweat from being Microbiota analysis, culturomics:
released onto the surface of the skin. It also The microbiota of the axillary zone of each
often requires the use of aluminum salts that volunteer was sampled for a quantitative and
are controversial ingredients.7 qualitative analysis. The relative abundance
The fragrance compounds used to hide of bacterial species responsible for odors was
perspiration odors can be a source of irritation studied. Among the species quantifiable under
for the underarm skin due to their alcohol the conditions of this study, the results obtained
content. Finally, the antiseptic strategy uses by 16S rRNA gene sequencing showed an
broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents and does increase of the S. hominis relative abundance
not respect the balance of the axillary cutane- in the malodorous group, while the relative
ous microbiota. In addition, antiseptic products abundance of Cutibacterium avidum was not
used can irritate skin, be allergenic or are sus- significantly modified (see Figure 2a).
pected of being endocrine disruptors.5, 6 These Cutaneous microbiota samples were then
different issues explain the need to develop new collected by swabbing the 24 volunteers after
anti-odor strategies that are risk-free, natural 1 hr of indoor cycling. The samples were
and that specifically target the biological origin processed using a culturomics-derived meth-
of unpleasant axillary odors.
In this context, the current authors sought
to develop an active ingredient targeting the
a
Deolya (INCI: Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Extract
is a product of Silab.

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 Research

odology, wherein selective nutrient agar — a sampled from non-odorous subjects. These
custom-made culture medium adapted to isolate results identified the importance of the micro-
some S. hominis clones and promote the growth biota as well as the intrinsic activity of its C-S
of this strain — served as the growth medium. lyase in odor generation.
After a 48 hr incubation at 37°C, the plates were
analyzed and more than 66 colonies with an Natural Active to Target
S. hominis-like phenotype were picked up. S. Hominis and
Each isolate was then identified by Internal
transcribed spacer-PCR and 28 isolates were
C-S Lyase Activity
confirmed as S. hominis strains. Crude extracts With the aim of developing a natural active
were obtained from these isolates and the activity to target S. hominis and its C-S lyase activity,
of the C-S lyase enzyme, involved in unpleasant 150 candidates were screened for their potential
odors (thiols) generation, was studied. to inhibit the enzymatic activity responsible
Interestingly, results highlighted significantly for thiols generation. Metabolomic analysis
higher C-S lyase activity in S. hominis crude revealed meadowsweet extract holds a unique
extracts from malodorous volunteers (see Figure polyphenol profile with the capacity to inhibit
2b), compared with S. hominis crude extracts thiol production thanks to its families of pro-

Figure 1. Schematic representation of panel distribution

Figure 2. Study of the S. hominis and C. avidum relative abundance (a) and S. hominis C-S
lyase activity (b) in non-odorous and malodorous volunteers

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CT2411_12_Research_Verzeaux_DM.indd 44 10/21/24 5:37 PM

 cyanidins and tellimagrandins. A test deodorant volunteers wore a provided cotton t-shirt pro-
containing the extract was therefore developed fessionally laundered, machine washed (90°C)
for additional in vivo testing. for one hour without any additional detergent.
After the cycling session, subjects waited one
Meadowsweet Deodorant hour in a temperate room under standardized
Study and Meta Sequencing conditions, still wearing the t-shirts to allow
odors to form. Cutaneous microbiota samples
To assess the efficacy of meadowsweet
were taken from the underarms with sterile
for deodorant applications, 12 non-smoking
swabs.
Caucasian volunteers (mean age: 52 ± 11 years)
Microbiota sampling: Bacterial genomic
who had slight to very intense perspiration odor
DNA was extracted from the swabs, and
intensity after a sport session were enrolled.
samples of cutaneous microbiota were analyzed
Subjects gave a written informed consent for
by 16S rRNA gene sequencing. After sequenc-
their participation in this clinical study.
ing, sequences were demultiplexed and used
Test protocol: All subjects were instructed
for downstream data analysis. Bioinformatic
to stop using antiperspirants three weeks before
analyses consist in cleaning sequences, cluster-
the study and to use the provided test deodorant
ing them in operational taxonomy units (OTUs)
(see Formula 1) during the two first weeks of
and assignment of OTUs.
the study. Volunteers also used a normalizing
shower gel and shampoo provided
during the three weeks preceding Formula 1. Test Meadowsweet Deodorant
the study. In addition, wearing
perfume, using body lotion, eating
spicy or strong-smelling foods % w/w
(garlic, onions, asparagus, etc.) Pentylene Glycol 3.0
and drinking alcohol were prohib- 1,2 Hexanediol (Microcare Emollient HDX, Thor) 2.0
ited three days before the physical Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Extract (Deolya, Silab) 1.0
activity test session. Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Volunteers were instructed to (Carbopol Ultrez 20, Lubrizol) 0.3
apply the deodorant containing Sodium Hydroxide (28% NaOH Solution) qs to pH 5
the meadowsweet extract at 1% Preservatives qs to pH 5
in the morning after washing. Aqua (Water), Purified qs to 100.0%
At each test appointment, the

Figure 3. Immediate effect of the meadowsweet natural active ingredient on the relative
abundance of S. hominis and C. avidum (a) and the α-diversity (b) in samples obtained in
volunteers having applied or not a deodorant containing the natural active ingredient

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CT2411_12_Research_Verzeaux_DM.indd 45 10/21/24 5:37 PM

 Research

Metabolomic analysis revealed meadowsweet

holds a unique polyphenol profile with the
capacity to inhibit thiol production thanks to
its procyanidins and tellimagrandins.
Results demonstrated that
the application of the natural
active deodorant before the
sport session significant
decreased the S. hominis
relative abundance without
impacting the C. avidum rela-
tive abundance (see Figure
3a). Moreover, the diversity of
axillary bacterial communities
was not significantly modified
Image by FotoHelin at Adobe Stock

by the natural active deodor-

ant, thereby preserving the
balance in this skin zone (see
Figure 3b).
Culturomics study and
C-S lyase
Figure 4. Capacity of the meadowsweet natural active activity: Isolates and crude
ingredient to reduce C-S lyase enzymatic activity extracts of S. hominis from
malodorous volunteers were

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CT2411_12_Research_Verzeaux_DM.indd 46 10/21/24 5:37 PM

 also obtained as previously detailed. The The described meadowsweet extract is
crude extracts (containing the S. hominis C-S therefore proposed as a natural active to
lyase), a substrate of this enzyme (benzyl- specifically target the mechanisms behind
cysteine) and a molecule required for the axillary odor production. In addition, it dem-
fluorescence reaction (monobromobimane) onstrated no negative impact on the overall
were mixed and incubated for 30 min. For skin microbiome balance.
this test, fluorescence intensity is correlated
with thiol release and thereby related to C-S References
lyase activity. 1. Baker, L.B. (2019). Physiology of sweat gland function:
Crude extracts of S. hominis were pre- The roles of sweating and sweat composition in human
incubated with the meadowsweet active at health. Temperature, 6(3) 211-259.

0.25%, 0.50%, 0.75% or 1.00% for 15 min. 2. Baker, L.B., et al. (2020). Physiological mechanisms
determining eccrine sweat composition. European
The specific activity of C-S lyase was calcu- Journal of Applied Physiology, 120 719-752.
lated by dividing the fluorescence increase 3. Bawdon, D., et al. (2015). Identification of axillary
(DF) after 30 min of reaction by the quantity Staphylococcus sp. involved in the production of the
of proteins (mg) in the crude extract and was malodorous thioalcohol 3-methyl-3-sufanylhexan-1-ol.
FEMS Microbiology Letters, 326(16).
expressed as DF s-1 mg-1.
4. Rudden, M., et al. (2020). The molecular basis of
The effect of the active ingredient on thioalcohol production in human body odor. Scientific
enzymatic activity was determined by com- Reports, 10 12500.
paring the specific activities of the bacterial 5. Martini, M.C., et al. (2020). Déodorants et anti-
extract in the presence and absence of the transpirants. Annales de Dermatologie et de
Vénéréologie, 147 387-395.
active ingredient. The results showed that
6. de Oliveira, E.C.V., et al. (2021). Deodorants and
compared with D0, the active significantly antiperspirants: Identification of new strategies and
reduced enzymatic activity in a dose-depen- perspectives to prevent and control malodor and sweat
dent manner; at 1%, it reduced the activity of the body. International Journal of Dermatology, 60
613-619.
of the enzyme by 52% (see Figure 4). The
7. Linhart, C., et al. (2017). Use of underarm cosmetic
ingredient therefore demonstrated the capac- products in relation to risk of breast cancer: A case-
ity to regulate the activity of S. hominis that control study. EBioMedicine, 21 79-85.
generates perspiration odors. 8. Mogilnicka, I., et al. (2020). Microbiota and malodor
– Etiology and management. International Journal of

Discussion and Conclusion Molecular Sciences, 21(2886) 1-21.

9. Minhas, G.S., et al. (2018). Structural basis of malodor
By reducing the relative abundance of precursor transport in the human axilla. eLIFE, 7
S. hominis and limiting its C-S lyase activity, e34995.
the meadowsweet-based active ingredient 10. Natsch, A., et al. (2004). Identification of odoriferous
sulfanylalkanols in human axilla secretions and their
and test deodorant containing it significantly
formation through cleavage of cysteine precursors by a
reduced the quantity of malodorous volatile C-S lyase isolated from axilla bacteria. Chem Biodivers,
thiol compounds. Indeed, as of the first 1(7) 1058-1072.
application in the morning before the physi- 11. Starkenmann, C., Niclass, Y., Troccaz, M. and Clark,
A.J. (2005 Jun). Identification of the precursor of (S)-
cal activity session, the perspiration odors
3-methyl-3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol, the sulfury malodor of
released after a physical activity session and human axilla sweat. Chem Biodivers. Available at https://
measured by a sniff-test were significantly pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17192014/
reduced by 58.0% (p < 0.01). 12. James, A.G., Austin, C.J., Cox, D.S., Taylor, D. and Cal-
vert, R. (2012, Dec 31). Microbiological and biochemical
After daily use for 7 days and without
origins of human axillary odor. FEMS Microbiol Ecol.
having applied the deodorant in the morn- Available at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23278215/
ing before the physical activity session, a 13. Troccaz, M., Gaïa, M., ... Lazarevic, V., et al. (2015, Jan
reduction in the intensity of perspiration 24). Mapping axillary microbiota responsible for body
odors using a culture-independent approach. Available
odors after a physical activity was also at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25653852/
observed with a sniff test (-39.8%, p < 0.01).
Interestingly, the volunteers in this study also
positively rated the deodorant at 7.6/10 for
its daily efficacy on body odors and 7.5/10 for
its capacity to limit perspiration odors after
physical activity (data not shown).

Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries | DM38

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 Formulating | C&T

KEY POINTS
• This article describes how to formulate
toothpaste and mouthwash.

• Key functional ingredients are outlined

as well as those for added benefits; e.g.,
anti-tartar, desensitizing, strengthening,
whitening, etc. Example oral care formulas
are also provided.

Formulating Forum

Formulating Oral
Hygiene Products
for Healthy Teeth
and Total Care

T he mouth, teeth and oral cavity are key structures

Image by Svitlana at Adobe Stock

Nicola Lionetti and Miriam Deola of the body, as well as instruments of verbal com-
LabAnalysis, srl, Milan munication, passages for breathing and essential
routes for nutrition. Their balance is closely
linked to the overall health of our organism. Over
time, all characteristics of the oral cavity change
significantly, especially as progressive aging makes physiological dam-
age repair mechanisms less efficient. Cosmetic oral care products and
correct hygiene are therefore valuable allies to keep lips, teeth, gums and
the oral cavity general in a healthy condition.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024
© 2024 Allured Business Media.

CT2411_12_Formulating_Lionetti_DM.indd 44 10/21/24 5:43 PM

 When developing oral hygiene products,
the formulator must balance ingredients
that are both gentle to teeth and
effective for polishing.

Many different tissues are pres- While mechanical factors like toothbrushing
ent in the oral cavity, including have almost no or little effect on hard enamel,
one of the few mineral substances incorrect oral hygiene habits (e.g., the over-
produced by the human body: brushing of teeth) can result in abrasion and
hydroxyapatite, the material severe wear of the enamel.3 For these reasons,
forming teeth and bones. This is when developing oral hygiene products, the
a crystalline calcium phosphate formulator must balance ingredients that are
with variable composition and both gentle to teeth and effective for polishing.
hardness depending on carbonate, This article describes the formulation of
fluoride or hydroxyl ions in the oral care products including toothpaste and
crystals, making it more or less mouthwash. It outlines key functional ingredi-
susceptible to acid attacks and ents along with those for added benefits ranging
mechanically resistant. Greater from anti-tartar and desensitizing effects to
resistance and hardness are strengtheners, whiteners and more. Prototype
provided by a high fluoride ion formulations also are presented.
content, whose salts have proven
to be effective in the prevention of Toothpaste Abrasives
dental caries.1 Choosing abrasives: When formulating
The part of the teeth in direct toothpaste, abrasive powders should not be too
contact with the oral cavity is powerful, to avoid the loss of dental material –
the enamel, the most calcified especially if the enamel surface is compromised
and hardest biological tissue in or the softer underlying dentin is exposed by
humans, yet it exists in a pre- gum recession or vigorous brushing. The key
carious balance. It is constantly characteristics of abrasives are: hardness and
subject to mineral loss, mainly size of the particles.
due to acids introduced through In terms of hardness, it must be lower than
food or produced by bacteria that of enamel, which is about 6-7 on the Mohs
in dental plaque through the scale. This scale refers to the qualitative ordinal
metabolism of dietary sugars. scale of mineral hardness and scratch resis-
A bacterial film comprising a mixture of tance, from 1 to 10, where talc = 1 and diamond
bacteria, starches, proteins and lipids forms =10. Ideally, toothpaste abrasives should be
on the tooth surface. In the presence of both around 3.
bacteria and sugars, caries can develop. The
consequences depend on individual susceptibil-
ity to corrosion, the type and quantity
of bacteria, and the quality and amount Want More from
of saliva secretion. When dental tissue
is corroded by dietary acids in a process
this author?
without bacterial involvement, the Check out Cleansers, Treatments and
Makeup for Oily, Acneic and Seborrheic
loss of materials, known as erosion, is Skin and Scalp in our September 2024 edition.
progressive and hardly reversible.2

Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 45

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 Formulating

The particle size should not exceed 20 µm Other Basic

to prevent excessive roughness and damage to
teeth surface and gums. The dosage of abrasives
Toothpaste Ingredients
in toothpastes varies between 20% and 45%, Built around abrasive powders, toothpaste
depending on the amount of humectants, cost, formulations (see Formula 1) are typically
particle size and aqueous phase absorption. pseudo-plastic viscous hydrocolloids, addi-
Abrasive ingredients: Calcium carbon- tionally containing thickeners, surfactants
ate, being a less expensive material, has been and hydrotropes along with functional
widely used in toothpaste although its use has specific additives.
declined, supplanted by calcium phosphate, Humectant polyols: Humectant polyols
which is less abrasive. Calcium phosphate (e.g., glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, poly-
occurs in anhydrous and dehydrated form. The ethylene glycols) ensure easy miscibility with
anhydrous form is harder and consequently less saliva, wetting of abrasive solids, swelling of
frequently used while the dehydrated variant thickeners, maintenance of the formula water
has medium abrasiveness. content and a basic sweet taste. A high con-
Silica also is widely used and allows for the centration of humectants provides significant
formulation of low-abrasive cleansing tooth- osmotic pressure on the bacterial cell walls and
pastes. It has the advantage of being compatible gingival mucosa. The use of osmo-protectors
with fluoride salts. like betaine and ectoine has been proposed
Sodium bicarbonate is another option that to reduce such effect. In a clinical trial, it was
slowly dissolves in water during brushing. It demonstrated that betaine reduces the irritat-
is considered a gentle temporary polish with ing effects of sodium lauryl sulfate-containing
low abrasive power. Its alkaline reaction also products for oral hygiene in subjects with dry
prevents the aggressive action of acids. oral mucosa.4
Finally, polishing powders like zeolite, kaolin Common viscosity values for toothpastes
and microcrystalline cellulose can be used to range between 100,000 and 200,000 mPa.s at
formulate very mild toothpastes or those for low shear rates (2.5 rpm). Hydrophilic polymers
sore gums. like carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose,
hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,
sodium alginate, xanthan gum and carrageenan
The oral care market is projected to are typically used at high percentages. Mineral
reach $10.8 billion in 2024 and expand thickeners are usually constituted by precipi-
tated silica gels and bentonite.
to an estimated $12.2 billion by 2029.
Foaming agents: A crucial sensory element
Source: Mintel of toothpaste is the formation of voluminous
foam that also must easily be rinsed off. This
function is usually achieved using high-purity
Formula 1. Standard Toothpaste sodium lauryl sulfate at 1.0-1.5%, which is also
needed to wet the solids. Alternatively, there are
a few surfactants with acceptable taste; alkyl
Ingredients % w/w
glucosides, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium
Demineralized Water (Aqua) qs to 100.00
cocoamphodiacetate and olivoyl fructoside have
Hydrotropes (Glycerin, Sorbitol, Xylitol) 10.0-40.0
proven efficient, with good taste and moderate
Polymer Thickeners (e.g., Cellulose Derivatives) 1.0-2.5
foam production.
Mineral Thickeners (e.g., Pyrogenic Silicas) 5.0-20.0
The surfactant emulsifier steareth-30 can
Mineral Abrasive 15.0-50.0
also be used in products with low mucosal
Foaming Agent 1.0-2.0
aggressiveness containing the cationic anti-
Sweetener 0.1-0.5
bacterial chlorhexidine gluconate, which
Preservatives 0.0-1.0
is incompatible with anionic surfactants.
Flavor 1.0-2.0
Recently, saponins extracted from quillaja bark
Colorants (Including Titanium Dioxide) 0.0-1.0
or yucca also have been proposed for their
Functional Additives (Fluorides, Antibacterials, Anti-tartar,
vegetal origin and low irritant potential.
Desensitizers, Astringents, Enzymes, Whiteners) 0.0-5.0
Flavor enhancers: The pleasantness of
toothpaste flavor is fundamental for consumers’

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CT2411_12_Formulating_Lionetti_DM.indd 46 10/21/24 5:43 PM

 acceptability and depends on local taste and habits. Therefore, a wide variety of added benefit
product claims (e.g., protection, breath fresh- ingredients, actives and flavors can play a role.
ness, medicinal effects, infant care, etc.). Some Antibacterials and anti-tartar agents:
sweeteners like sodium saccharin or Stevia Antibacterials are intended to reduce the oral
rebaudiana extract can be added to give a sweet bacterial load and their proliferation. Bacteria
taste or mask bitter actives. are the cause of plaque and tartar formation
Ammonium glycyrrhizate from licorice that, if neglected, can lead to serious health
offers multiple benefits: sweetening as well as consequences. However, their use is controver-
mild foaming, soothing and anti-inflammatory sial because they can lead to alterations in the
effects. Lasting refreshing breath is achieved beneficial resident bacterial flora. Antibacterial
with menthol derivatives. Salty toothpaste enzymes like lactoperoxidase, lysozyme and
flavors have also found a market niche. lactoferrin, or plant extracts from pine bark can
pH buffering: Since the pH of saliva is be used as alternatives to the highly debated
physiologically buffered between 6.6 and 6.9, a triclosan or traditional chlorhexidine gluconate,
good toothpaste should also be buffered (e.g., which can cause tooth staining at use levels
with phosphates) at slightly higher values to above 0.15%.
counteract the effects of acidity due to carbohy- The most-used and highly effective ingredi-
drate fermentation. ents against tartar formation are tetrasodium
and tetrapotassium pyrophosphates, which
Added Benefit Toothpaste exert this function by binding to the surface of
Ingredients the tooth and preventing the interaction with
Today’s oral care products are highly differ- calcium and phosphate ions and the formation
entiated according to individual needs, age and of crystals.

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 Formulating

Humectant polyols ensure easy miscibility with saliva, wetting of abrasive solids, swelling of thickeners, maintenance of the
formula water content and a basic sweet taste.

Astringents: Actives like stannous fluoride ous plant extracts are also known for their
and zinc citrate counteract the inflammation soothing properties and are traditionally
of gums caused by bacterial biofilms that can used in products intended to calm inflam-
degenerate into more severe gingivitis. Numer- mation and irritation, and for the hygiene
of sensitive teeth and gums: e.g., mallow,
calendula, witch hazel, chamo-
Formula 2. Whitening Oral Gel-emulsion mile, etc.
Desensitizers: The erosion of
dentin leads to contact between
Ingredients % w/w
nerve endings inside the tooth and
Water (Aqua) qs to 100.0
fluids contained in dentin micro-
Sodium Saccharin < 0.5
tubules, a phenomenon causing
Arginine < 0.5
pain called dental sensitivity.
Glycerin 5.0-10.0
Certain salts such as potassium
Xylitol 1.0-3.0
nitrate, strontium chloride and

Image by Irshaad Majal/peopleimages.com at Adobe Stock

Hydroxyacetophenone < 1.0
stannous fluoride can be included
Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) < 1.0
to inhibit these nerve signals.
Cellulose Gum 1.0-2.5
Enamel strengtheners: To
Hydrogenated Polydecene 4.0-6.0
strengthen enamel, fluorides
Isopropyl Myristate 1.0-3.0
(sodium, stannous or amine)
Coconut Oil 2.0-4.0
are commonly used, along with
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
sodium monofluorophosphate,
(and) Stearic Acid (and) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 3.0-5.5
preferred for its compatibility
Aroma 1.0-2.0
with abrasives and greater
Tocopheryl Acetate < 0.5
bioavailability of fluoride ions.
Preservatives qs
The acceptable concentration of
Phthalimido Peroxycaproic Acid (and) Cyclodextrin 5.0-8.0
fluoride released by these salts has
Sodium Cocoyl/Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (and)
a maximum limit of 1,500 ppm.
Fructosyl Cocoate/Olivate (and) Fructose (and) Water (Aqua)
The main action of fluorine
(and) Glycerin 5.0-10.0
is related to the ability of F- ions

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 to replace OH- ions in the crystal lattice of Dissolution of surfactant: One difficulty
hydroxyapatite, thus transforming it into fluo- in producing toothpaste is the dissolution of
roapatite, which has lower solubility in acidic solid surfactant, e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate, in
environments. Moreover, it is deposited in the hot water. This can be improved by pre-wetting
tooth enamel in the form of calcium fluoride, the surfactant with glycerin.
thus acting by releasing fluoride during periods Minimizing air entrapment: Adding abra-
of low pH and inhibiting the formation of sive powders generally requires aspiration from
caries. the bottom of the vessel under vacuum, even if
Other hypothesized mechanisms include this operation entraps significant amounts of
the inhibition of bacterial enzyme systems of air, in addition to that adsorbed on the surface.
glycolysis, reduced production of bacterial Air bubbles are stabilized by the surfactant
acids and polysaccharides, as well as decreased and their elimination under vacuum can be
adsorption of salivary glycoproteins from the time-consuming.
tooth and plaque formation.5, 6 One possible solution is adding powders
Whiteners: Whitening benefits can be from above, layering them on the liquid surface
achieved both by the physical removal of stains and creating maximum vacuum without mov-
and by chemical reactions; i.e., by the degrada- ing blades or the turbine, in order to eliminate
tion of chromophores. Many substances that all air. Subsequent mixing and homogenization
release oxygen, besides reducing the bacterial will incorporate the powders and residual air
load, oxidize the protein film covering enamel, removal will be much easier.
thus enhancing its brightness. Avoiding clumps: Thickeners should be
Hydrogen peroxide and its precursor, urea added by pre-wetting them with a suitable fluid
peroxide, can be used within the concentra- (flavor or liquid humectants) to avoid clumps.
tion limits imposed by regulations and safety The viscosity at the production discharge
criteria (up to 0.1%).7 An alternative to hydro- should be lower than that of the product
gen peroxide is phthalimido peroxycaproic ready to be sold, considering that it tends to
acid, which has demonstrated a bleaching increase and stabilize within one month from
effect after a single application, eliminating the manufacturing.
the problem of tooth sensitivity and irritation Visual appearance: The typical appear-
of the mucous membranes associated with ance of toothpastes is opaque white, due to
traditional oxidizing agents.8, 9 Mixtures based
on calcium carbonate and perlite abrasives also
boast strong whitening effects, while activated
charcoal, thanks to its adsorptive properties,
can confer superficial tooth whitening.
Formula 2 shows a tooth cleansing and
whitening gel-cream innovation. This viscous
o/w emulsion is based on the whitening
active ingredient phthalimido peroxyca-
proic acid and food-grade emulsifiers
and oily lipids. The formula performs
a gentle cleansing action with ben-
eficial soothing and protective effects
for gums.

Toothpaste Production,
Quality Controls and
Efficacy Tests
It is worth noting some of the challenges
faced when producing toothpastes, as well as
critical quality controls and efficacy tests.

Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries | DM40

CT2411_12_Formulating_Lionetti_DM.indd 49 10/21/24 5:44 PM

 Formulating

abrasives. Titanium dioxide can be added as a by filling the tubes with colored pastes of
whitener to mask the semi-opalescent effect of different viscosities.
formulas based on silica gels. Colored stripes or Organoleptic properties: pH, density,
suspended microspheres make the pastes even viscosity, foam quality and quantity, and ease of
more appealing. The stripe effect is obtained rinsing are typical analytical controls requiring
quality checks.
Cleaning and plaque removal
Formula 3. Biphasic Alcohol-free Mouthwash efficacy: The cleaning (abrasive) power
of toothpaste is typically evaluated on
Ingredients: Aqueous Phase % w/w extracted radioactive teeth to measure
Xylitol 8.0-12.0 the amount of dentin abraded. A
Sodium Chloride < 1.0 specialized machine uses a toothpaste
Sodium Saccharin < 0.5 dispersion for such measurements.
Betaine 1.0-3.0 Plaque removal is measured on
Lactic Acid < 0.5 extracted molars treated with saliva, soy,
CI 61570, CI 47005 qs sucrose, serum albumin and a reagent
Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate qs sensitive to removed proteins.
Hydroxyethylcellulose < 0.5 Breath freshening, enamel
Water (Aqua) qs to 100.0 strengthening efficacy: Breath fresh-
Ingredients: Oil Phase % w/w ening effects are usually assessed by a
Cocos Nucifera Oil 4.0-6.0 trained sensory panel, while whitening
CI 61565 qs is measured by a standard reflection
Isopropyl Myristate 40.0-45.0 colorimeter or comparison with color
Menthol (and) Menthyl Lactate < 0.5 scales in ceramic teeth developed in
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract < 0.5 twenty natural-colored shades. Enamel
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil < 0.5 strengthening is determined with a
Ethylhexylglycerin 1.0-2.0 microhardness analysis. Fluoride incor-
O-5-Cymen-Ol < 0.5 poration is conducted with standard
Octyldodecanol qs to 100.0 analytical chemistry methods on treated
enamel samples.
*final product = 70% aqueous phase, 30% oil phase

Mouthwash Ingredients
Formula 4. Gentle Mousse for Oral Hygiene Mouthwashes are designed to reduce
the bacterial load in the oral cavity and
provide an immediate refreshing effect.
Ingredients % w/w Vehicle, flavor, foaming, anti-
Water (Aqua) qs to 100.0 bacterials, dye, astringent, soothing
Cellulose Gum < 1.0 agent, etc.: The vehicle is commonly
Pentylene Glycol 3.0-5.0 an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution
Diglycerin 1.0-3.0 with humectants like glycerin, xylitol
Panthenol < 0.5 or sorbitol, containing a suitable flavor
Sodium Saccharin < 0.5 (1-2%) for a strong, long-lasting breath-
Allantoin < 0.5 refreshing effect. Also included are
Aroma < 0.5 foaming surfactants at a low percent-
Preservatives qs age (0.2-0.5%), antibacterials (often
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.0-3.0 cetylpyridinium chloride, chlorhexidine
Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract < 0.5 gluconate or other cationic molecules),
Sodium Cocoyl/Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein a water-soluble light-stable dye for
(and) Fructosyl Cocoate/Olivate (and) Fructose (and) visual appeal, and, if necessary, astrin-
Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin 5.0-7.0 gent and soothing plant extracts.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Water (Aqua) 5.0-7.0 Surfactant, solubilizer, sweetener,
CI 42051, CI 47005 qs buffering agents, etc.: The surfactant
can be Sodium lauryl sulfate, as well

DM41 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 139, No. 10 | November/December 2024

CT2411_12_Formulating_Lionetti_DM.indd 50 10/21/24 5:44 PM

 as non-ionic ethoxylates, vegetal fructosides or sic powerful antibacterials such as triclosan
plant saponins from Quillaja saponaria, with or chlorhexidine. Salivary enzymes, such as
soothing and antibacterial properties. Non-ionic lactoferrin and lysozyme, components of saliva
solubilizers are used to enhance the solubil- immunity, are also useful in balancing the oral
ity of the flavor, especially if the formula does microbiota, as well as supporting the natural
not contain enough alcohol to obtain a clear defenses of the oral cavity and improving the
microemulsion. inflammatory state of the mucosa.
Sweeteners are added to improve the taste of Finally, innovative products such as biphasic
the product while buffering agents keep the pH alcohol-free mouthwashes and hybrid foaming
around 7, similar to the physiological environ- mouthwash-toothpastes (in mousse) provide
ment of the oral cavity. Note that sequestering users with unique experiences and benefits,
agents are usually not added, as they could examples of which are provided here. Taken
remove calcium ions from the enamel structure. together, such oral care products help to keep
Novel formats: Besides standard liquid lips, teeth, gums and the oral cavity in general
rinses, some innovative mouthwashes have in a healthy condition.
entered the market for novel user experiences
and benefits. Toothpaste tablets, for example, References
impart cleansing activity by chewing and crush- 1. Rugg-Gunn, A. and Bánóczy, J. (2013 Nov). Fluoride
ing them with consequent brushing. Additional toothpastes and fluoride mouthrinses for home use. Acta
formulas are based on unique textures like Med Acad, 42(2) 168-78.
mousses and biphasic solutions, examples of 2. Gecy de Sousa Né, Y., Souza-Monteiro, … Paz Alvarenga,
M.O., et al. (2022, Nov 8). Treatment for dental erosion: A
which are provided here. systematic review of in vitro studies. Peer J, 10 e13864.
Formula 3 is a biphasic alcohol-free mouth- 3. Wu, Y., Arsecularatne, J.A. and Hoffman, M. (2017 Dec).
wash wherein the cleaning effect of the oils is an Attrition-corrosion of human dental enamel: A review.
alternative to the abrasives of traditional tooth- Biosurface and Biotribology, 3(4), 196-210.

pastes, minimizing the aggressiveness to mucous 4. Söderling, E., Le Bell, A., Kirstilä, V. and Tenovuo, J. (1998
Apr). Betaine-containing toothpaste relieves subjective
membranes. In addition, salt exerts osmotic symptoms of dry mouth. Acta Odontol Scand, 56(2) 65-9.
action on the gums with an astringent effect and 5. Rugg-Gunn, A. and Banoczy, J. (2013). Fluoride tooth-
stimulates saliva production. pastes and fluoride mouthrinses for home use. Acta Medica
Packed in a suitable foamer, Formula 4 is Academia, 42 pp 168-178.

a liquid mouthwash-toothpaste that mixes with 6. Lussi, A., Hellwig, E. and Klimek, J. (2012). Fluorides -
Mode of action and recommendations for use. Schweiz
air to create a soft mousse. It can be used as Monatsschr Zahnmed, 11(122) pp. 1030-1036.
mouthwash or dosed onto a toothbrush to clean 7. SCCP (2007, Dec 18). Scientific Committee on Consumer
the teeth. Safety (SCCP) opinion on hydrogen peroxide, in its free
form or when released, in oral hygiene products and tooth
Conclusions whitening products. European Commission. Available at
https://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/
As this article outlines, typical oral care docs/sccp_o_122.pdf
formulas are toothpastes in the form of abra- 8. Pascolutti, M., and De Oliveira, D. (2021, Dec 9). A radical-
free approach to teeth whitening. Dent J (Basel), 9(12) 148.
sive cleansing hydrogels and hydroalcoholic
9. Bizhang, M., Domin, J., Danesh, G. and Zimmer, S. (2017).
solutions with antibacterial, refreshing and
Effectiveness of a new non-hydrogen peroxide bleaching
soothing ingredients. These products can be agent after single use — A double-blind placebo-controlled
highly functionalized to meet the unique needs short-term study. Appl Oral Sci, 25 pp 575 – 584.
of consumers, e.g., whitening, enamel strength-
ening, and caries and malodor prevention.
However, particular attention must also be paid
to users who are sensitive to potential irritation
who require new solutions with low abrasive
power that are gentler to the gums, e.g., oral
gel-creams. Want More from
The protection of the oral microbiome is this author?
also an indispensable requirement, which can
Check out Modern Hair Cleansing and
be achieved using ingredients with prebiotic
Conditioning in our June 2024 edition.
or probiotic functions as alternatives to clas-

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 Advertiser Index | C&T
November/December 2024
| Volume 139, number 10

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