4 Fuel
4 Fuel
see Chapter 1
4
6
8
Fuel hoses - replacement
Fuel pump and relay - check and replacement
Fuel system - check
Fuel tank - cleaning and repair
Fuel tank and fuel tap(s) - removal and installation
see Chapter 1
14
see Chapter 1
3
2
*
Carburettors - reassembly and fuel level check 10 General information and precautions 1
Carburettors - removal and installation 7 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information 5
Carburettors - separation and joining 9 Idle speed - check see Chapter 1
Choke cable - removal and installation 12 Throttle and choke cables - check and adjustment . . . .see Chapter 1
Exhaust system - removal and installation 13 Throttle cables - removal and installation 11
Fuel level warning light, fuel gauge/warning light and sensor- check Throttle position sensor - check and adjustment see Chapter 5
and replacement 15
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience DIY mechanic mechanic or professional
Specifications
Fuel
Grade Unleaded, minimum 91 RON (Research Octane Number)
Fuel tank capacity (including reserve)
YZF models 19.0 litres
FZS models
1998 and 1999 models 18.0 litres
2000 models 20.0 litres
Reserve
YZF models 3.1 litres
FZS models 3.5 litres
Carburettors
Type
YZF models Keihin CVKD36
FZS models Mikuni BSR 33
ID mark
UK YZF models
1996 4TV 00
1997-on 4TV 01
US YZF models 4TV 11
FZS models
1998 and 1999 models 5DM1 00
2000 models 5DM1 01
Pilot screw setting (turns out)
YZF models 13/8
FZS models 2
Fuel level (see text)
YZF models 11.5 to 12.5 mm below reference line
FZS models
1998 and 1999 models 4.5 mm above float chamber mating surface
2000 models 3.5 mm above float chamber mating surface
Idle speed see Chapter 1
4»2 Fuel and exhaust systems
Fuel pump
Resistance
YZF models 1.5 to 2.5 ohms @ 20°C
FZS models 1.8 to 2.6 ohms @ 20°C
Torque settings
Downpipe assembly
Nuts 10 Nm
Rear bolt 20 Nm
Fuel level sensor screws
YZF models 7 Nm
FZS models 5 Nm
Fuel tank mounting bolts - FZS models 10Nm
Fuel tank mountings - YZF models
Front mounting bolt nut 10 Nm
Rear mounting bolt 16Nm
Fuel tap screws 7 Nm
Silencer clamp bolt 20 Nm
Silencer mounting bolt 20 Nm
2.4c . . . and disconnect the wiring 2.5a Withdraw the front bolt. 2.5b . . . and remove the tank
connector (arrowed)
4»4 Fuel and exhaust systems
2.8a Slacken the rear bolt (arrowed)... 2.8b . . . and remove the front bolt 2.9 Turn the fuel tap (A) "OFF", then
(arrowed) detach the fuel hose (B) from its union
10 Release the clamps securing the drain b) Turn the fuel tap "ON" before lowering unnecessarily from the tank to prevent the
and breather hoses to their unions, noting the tank. possibility of damaging the O-ring or strainer.
which fits where, and detach the hoses (see c) Tighten the front mounting bolt nut and 15 Remove the fuel tank as described above.
illustration); on 2000 models, note that the the rear mounting bolt to the torque On YZF models, release the clamp securing
drain and breather outlets plug into a catch settings specified at the beginning of the the fuel hose to the fuel tap and detach the
tray. Disconnect the fuel level sensor wiring chapter. hose (see illustration 2.18a).
connector (see illustration). d) Start the engine and check that there is 16 Connect a drain hose to the fuel outlet
11 Remove the rear bolt and carefully lift the no sign of fuel leakage, then shut if off. union on the tap and insert its end in a
tank off the frame and remove it (see container suitable and large enough for
illustration). Fuel tap storing the petrol. Turn the fuel tap to the
12 Inspect the tank mounting rubbers for Removal "ON" position and allow the tank to drain.
signs of damage or deterioration and replace When the tank has drained, turn the tap to the
them with new ones if necessary. Note: If the fuel tap has been leaking,
"OFF" position.
tightening the assembly screws may help.
Installation 17 Remove the screws on the face of the tap
Slacken all the screws a little first, then tighten
and disassemble it, noting how the
13 Installation is the reverse of removal, them evenly a little at a time to ensure the
components fit. Inspect all components for
noting the following: cover seats properly on the tap body. If
wear or damage, and replace them with new
a) Make sure the hoses are properly leakage persists, the tap should be replaced,
ones, if available. If any of the components
attached and secured by their clamps. however nothing is lost by dismantling the tap
are worn or damaged beyond repair and are
Connect the fuel level sensor wiring for further inspection.
connector. not available individually, a new tap must be
14 The tap should not be removed
fitted.
18 Remove the screws securing the tap to
the tank and withdraw the tap assembly (see
illustrations). Discard the O-ring as a new
one must be used.
19 Clean the gauze strainer to remove all
traces of dirt and fuel sediment. Check the
gauze for holes. If any are found, a new tap
should be fitted as the strainer is not available
individually.
Installation
20 Installation is the reverse of removal.
21 Use a new O-ring on the tap, and tighten
the screws to the torque setting specified at
2.1 Oa Detach the hoses, noting which fits 2,10b . . . and disconnect the wiring the beginning of the Chapter.
where... connector 22 Install the fuel tank (see above).
2.11 Remove the rear bolt and lift the tank 2.18a Fuel tap screws (arrowed)- 2.18b Fuel tap screws (arrowed) •
off YZF models FZS models
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»5
4.2 Detach the crankcase breather hose 4.3a Unscrew the bolt. . . 4.3b . . . then slacken the intake duct
(A) and the drain hose (B) from the housing clamp screw (arrowed) on each side . . .
illustration). Slacken the bottom clamp 2 The pilot screws are set to their correct
3 Fuel tank - IJS screws securing the housing to the carburettor position by the manufacturer and should not
cleaning and repair 5£ intakes on the underside (see illustration). be adjusted or removed unless it is necessary
4 Lift the housing up off the carburettors and to do so during a carburettor overhaul. If the
remove it (see illustration). Remove the duct screws are to be removed, record the pilot
L 1
1 All repairs to the fuel tank should be carried collar for safekeeping if required (see screw's current setting by turning the screw it
out by a professional who has experience in illustration). in until it seats lightly, counting the number of I
this critical and potentially dangerous work. turns necessary to achieve this, then fully
FZS models
Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel unscrew it. On installation, the screw is simply
5 Remove the engine (see Chapter 2). backed out the number of turns you've
system, explosive fumes can remain and
6 Release the clamps securing the crankcase recorded.
ignite during repair of the tank.
breather hose and the drain hoses to the air 3 If the engine runs extremely rough at idle or
2 If the fuel tank is removed from the bike, it
filter housing and detach the hoses. continually stalls, and if a carburettor overhaul
should not be placed in an area where sparks
7 Withdraw the housing from the frame and does not cure the problem, take the motor-
or open flames could ignite the fumes coming
remove it. cycle to a Yamaha dealer equipped with an
out of the tank. Be especially careful inside
exhaust gas analyser. They will be able to
garages where a natural gas-type appliance is Installation properly adjust the idle fuel/air mixture to
located, because the pilot light could cause 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check achieve a smooth idle and restore low speed
an explosion. the condition of the various hoses and their performance.
clamps and replace them if necessary.
4 Air filter housing -
removal and installation Sv 6 Carburettor overhaul -
5 Idle fuel/air mixture general information
adjustment -
general information
Removal 1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard
1 Due to the increased emphasis on starting, stalling, flooding and backfiring are
YZF models controlling exhaust emissions, certain all signs that major carburettor maintenance
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2). governmental regulations have been may be required.
2 Release the clamps securing the crankcase formulated which directly affect the 2 Keep in mind that many so-called
breather hose and the drain hose to the air carburation of this machine. The pilot screws carburettor problems are really not
filter housing and detach the hoses (see can be adjusted, but the use of an exhaust carburettor problems at all, but mechanical
illustration). gas analyser and an auxiliary tachometer problems within the engine, or ignition system
3 Unscrew the bolt securing the front of the capable of accurately displaying changes of malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that
housing to the frame (see illustration). 50 rpm is the only certain way to adjust the the carburettors are in need of maintenance
Slacken the clamp screws securing the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure the machine before beginning a major overhaul.
housing to the air intake ducts at the front (see doesn't exceed the emissions regulations. 3 Check the fuel tap and filter, the fuel hoses,
4.3c . . . and the four carburettor clamp 4.4a Lift the housing off the 4.4b . . . and remove the collars, if required
screws carburettors..
4»6 Fuel and exhaust systems
7.3a Unscrew the bolts (A) and free the 7.3b Each end cover is secured by three 7.3c Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) on each
rubber holder (B), then displace the bracket screws (arrowed) side
7.3d Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 7.3e Remove the fuel tank mounting 7.3f . . . and the rubber cover
remove the bracket plate...
the fuel pump, the intake manifold joint 6 Before disassembling the carburettors, make panels (see Chapter 8, Section 3), and the air
clamps, the air filter, the ignition system, the sure you have all necessary O-rings and other filter housing (see Section 4).
spark plugs and carburettor synchronisation parts, carburettor cleaner, a supply of clean 3 On FZS models, unscrew the bolts on the
before assuming that a carburettor overhaul is rags, some means of blowing out the carb- ignition coil/fuel pump mounting bracket and
required. urettor passages and a clean place to work. It is free the rubber holder for the wiring loom from
4 Most carburettor problems are caused by recommended that only one carburettor be its hole, then displace the bracket - there is
dirt particles, varnish and other deposits overhauled at a time to avoid mixing up parts. no need to disconnect any other wiring or
which build up in and block the fuel and air hoses (see illustration). Remove the screws
passages. Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings securing the end covers to the air filter
shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and air 7 Carburettors - housing and remove the covers (see
leaks which lead to poor performance. removal and installation illustration). Unscrew the bolts securing the
5 When overhauling the carburettors, rear of the housing on each side (see
disassemble them completely and clean the illustration). Unscrew the bolts securing the
parts thoroughly with a carburettor cleaning Warning: Refer to the precautions mounting bracket on the top of the housing
solvent and dry them with filtered, unlubricated given in Section 1 before starting and remove the bracket (see illustration).
compressed air. Blow through the fuel and air work. Remove the battery (see Chapter 9). Unscrew
passages with compressed air to force out any the bolts securing the fuel tank bracket and
dirt that may have been loosened but not Removal remove it, along with the mounting plate, then
removed by the solvent. Once the cleaning 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2). Drain remove the rubber insulating cover, noting
process is complete, reassemble the the cooling system (see Chapter 1). how it fits (see illustrations).
carburettor using new gaskets and O-rings. 2 On YZF models, remove the fairing side 4 Slacken the choke outer cable bracket
7.4a Slacken the clamp screw . . . 7.4b . . . then detach the outer cable from 7.4c . . . and the inner cable end from the
the clamp lever - YZF model
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»7
! <
screw and free the cable from the bracket on 5 Detach the throttle cables from the the wiring connector from the throttle position
the front of the carburettors, then detach the carburettors (see Section 11, Steps 2 and 3). sensor on the left-hand end of the
inner cable nipple from the choke linkage bar If access is too restricted, detach them after carburettors (see illustration).
(see illustrations). the carburettors have been drawn off the 9 Release the clamps securing the heater
cylinder head intakes. system inlet and outlet hoses and detach the
6 On YZF models, free the idle speed hoses. On YZF models, they are on each end
adjuster from its holder and feed it through to of the carburettors at the bottom (see
the base of the carburettors (see illustration). illustrations). On FZS models, they are
7 Release the clamp securing the fuel supply between the outer and inner carburettor on
hose either to the carburettors or to the fuel each side, at the front.
pump and detach the hose (see illustration). 10 On FZS models, fully slacken the clamps
On YZF models, also release the clamp on the air intake rubbers, then slide the air
securing the air vent hose to the union at the filter housing back as far as possible (see
front of the carburettors and detach the hose illustration).
(see illustration). 11 Fully slacken the clamps on the cylinder
8 On YZF model, trace the wiring from the head intake rubbers - on YZF models, the
throttle position sensor on the left-hand end clamp Allen bolts for Nos. 1 and 2
of the carburettors and disconnect it at the carburettors face back, while for 3 and 4 they
connector (see illustration). Free the wiring face forward - access them using a suitable
7.9b . . . and pull the hose off the union on
from its cable tie. On FZS models, disconnect hex bit (see illustrations). On FZS models,
the left-hand end
7.11c Clamp screws (arrowed)- 7.11d Draw the carburettors off the 7.12 Carburettor drain screws (arrowed) -
FZS models intakes and remove them FZS models
the clamp screws are accessed from the side (see illustration). Note: Keep the piston diaphragms being damaged.
(see illustration). Carefully ease the carburettors level to prevent fuel spillage from Caution: Stuff clean rag into each cylinder
carburettors off the intakes and remove them the float chambers and the possibility of the head intake after removing the carburettors
to prevent anything from falling in.
12 Place a suitable container below the float
chambers, then slacken the drain bolt or
screw on each chamber in turn and drain all
the fuel from the carburettors (see
illustration). Tighten the drain screws
securely once all the fuel has been drained.
Installation
13 Installation is the reverse of removal,
noting the following.
a) Check for cracks or splits in the cylinder
head intake rubbers, and replace them
with new ones if necessary.
b) Make sure the carburettors are fully
engaged with the air and cylinder head
intake rubbers and the clamps are
securely tightened.
c) Make sure all hoses are correctly routed
and secured and not trapped or kinked.
d) Refer to Section 11 for installation of the
throttle cables, and Section 12 for the
choke cable. Check the operation of the
cables and adjust them as necessary (see
Chapter 1).
e) Check idle speed and carburettor
synchronisation and adjust as necessary
(see Chapter 1).
f) Do not forget to refill the cooling system
(see Chapter 1).
8 Carburettors -
disassembly, cleaning *k
and inspection jQ
8.5 Remove the screws (arrowed) and lift 8.6 Remove the main jet (arrowed). 8.7 . . . the needle jet (arrowed),
off the float chamber
8.8 . . . and the pilot jet (arrowed) 8.9a Remove the screw (arrowed) and lift 8.9b Remove the screw (A) and draw out
the float assembly out the needle valve seat (B)
inside the piston, noting the spring seat which 7 Unscrew and remove the needle jet (see carburettor, but note that its setting will be
will probably be in the bottom of the spring. illustration). disturbed (see Haynes Hint). Unscrew and
Carefully peel the diaphragm away from its 8 Unscrew and remove the pilot jet (see remove the pilot screw along with its spring,
sealing groove in the carburettor and withdraw illustration). washer and O-ring (see illustration). Discard
the diaphragm and piston assembly. Push the 9 On YZF models, remove the screw securing the O-ring as a new one must be used.
jet needle up from the bottom of the piston the float pivot pin, then lift out the float
and remove the spring seat (if it wasn't in the assembly and withdraw the pin (see To record the pilot screw's
spring), then withdraw the needle, noting the illustration). Unhook the needle valve from the i current setting, turn the
lU HHV
arrangement of the various washers and tab on the float, noting how it fits. If required, HINT screw in until it seats lightly,
spring. If the E-clip is removed from the remove the screw securing the needle valve counting the number of
needle, note which notch it is fitted into. seat and draw out the seat (see illustration). turns necessary to achieve this, then
5 Remove the screws securing the float Discard its O-ring as a new one must be used. fully unscrew it. On installation, the
chamber to the base of the carburettor and 10 On FZS models, carefully withdraw the screw is simply backed out the number
remove the float chamber, noting how it fits float pivot pin using a pair of thin-nosen pliers. of turns you've recorded.
(see illustration). Remove the rubber gasket If necessary, carefully displace the pin using a
and discard it as a new one must be used. On small punch or a nail. Remove the float 12 Unhook the choke linkage bar return
YZF models, note how the bracket on the assembly, noting how it fits. Unhook the needle spring, noting how it fits (see illustration).
chamber locates over and secures the heater valve from the tab on the float, noting how it Remove the screws securing the choke
system union. fits. If required, remove the needle valve seat. linkage bar to the carburettors, noting the
6 Unscrew and remove the main jet (see Discard its O-ring as a new one must be used. plastic washers (see illustration). Lift off the
illustration). 11 The pilot screw can be removed from the bar, noting how it fits (see illustration).
8.11 Pilot screw (arrowed) - 8.12a Unhook the spring . . . 8.12b . . . then remove the screws and
YZF models shown plastic washers
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»11
8.12c Remove the linkage bar, noting how 8.12d . .. and remove the inner plastic 8.12e Unscrew the plunger assembly
the arms locate on the plungers ... washers using pliers
Remove the inner plastic washers (see Inspection 24 Check the tip of the float needle valve and
illustration). Unscrew the choke plunger nut, the valve seat. If either has grooves or
18 Check the operation of the choke plunger
using a pair of thin-nosed pliers if access is scratches in it, or is in any way worn, they
assembly (see illustration). If it doesn't move
too restricted for a spanner, and withdraw the must be renewed as a set (see illustration).
smoothly, inspect the needle on the end of the
plunger assembly from the carburettor body Check the gauze filter on the underside of the
choke plunger, the spring and the plunger
(see illustration). seat for holes and replace the seat with a new
linkage bar. Replace the assembly if any
13 On YZF models, if required, remove the one if necessary.
component is worn, damaged or bent -
bolts securing the intake funnel and remove 25 Operate the throttle shaft to make sure
individual parts are not available.
the funnel, noting how it fits. Discard the the throttle butterfly valve opens and closes
19 If removed from the carburettor, check the
0-ring as a new one must be used. smoothly. If it doesn't, cleaning the throttle
tapered portion of the pilot screw and the
14 A throttle position sensor is mounted on linkage may help. Otherwise, replace the
the outside of the right-hand carburettor. Do spring and O-ring for wear or damage (see
carburettor with a new one.
not remove the sensor from the carburettor illustration). Replace the assembly with a 26 Check the float for damage. This will
unless it is known to be faulty and is being new one if necessary - individual parts are not usually be apparent by the presence of fuel
replaced. Refer to Chapter 5 for check and available. inside the float. If it is damaged, replace it with
adjustment of the sensor. 20 Check the carburettor body, float chamber a new one.
and top cover for cracks, distorted sealing
Cleaning surfaces and other damage. If any defects are
Caution: Use only a petroleum based found, replace the faulty component with a
solvent for carburettor cleaning. Don't use new one, although replacement of the entire 9 Carburettors -
caustic cleaners. carburettor will probably be necessary (check separation and joining
15 Submerge the metal components in the with a Yamaha dealer on the availability of
solvent for approximately thirty minutes (or separate components).
longer, if the directions recommend it). 21 Check the piston diaphragm for splits, Warning: Refer to the precautions
16 After the carburettor has soaked long holes and general deterioration. Holding them given in Section 1 before
enough for the cleaner to loosen and dissolve up to a light will help to reveal problems of this proceeding
most of the varnish and other deposits, use a nature.
nylon-bristled brush to remove the stubborn 22 Insert the piston in the carburettor body Separation
deposits. Rinse it again, then dry it with and check that it moves up-and-down 1 The carburettors do not need to be
compressed air. smoothly. Check the surface of the piston for separated for normal overhaul. If you need to
17 Use a jet of compressed air to blow out all wear. If it's worn excessively or doesn't move separate them (to replace a carburettor body,
of the fuel and air passages in the main and smoothly in the guide, replace the for example), refer to the following procedure.
upper body. components with new ones as necessary. 2 Remove the carburettors from the machine
Caution: Never clean the jets or passages 23 Check the jet needle for straightness by (see Section 7). Mark the body of each
with a piece of wire or a drill bit, as they will rolling it on a flat surface such as a piece of carburettor with its cylinder location to ensure
be enlarged, causing the fuel and air plate glass. Replace it with a new one if it's that it is positioned correctly on reassembly.
metering rates to be upset. ' bent or if the tip is worn. Refer to illustration 8.1 a or 8.1 b.
8.18 Choke plunger assembly 8.19 Check the tapered portion of the pilot 8.24 Check the valve's spring-loaded rod
screw (arrowed) for wear (A) and tip (B) for wear or damage
4*12 Fuel and exhaust systems
. . • : . . „. l iTffBT*^
(%,Jpl"*' > ny
,•,.<•— *^ ' " "" ' '*"" '"" ' ' ""•"
9.3a Note the difference in the throttle linkage assembly between 9.3b . . . and the other
one carburettor..
3 Make a note of how the throttle return noting how it fits (see illustration 8.12a). carburettor and detach the hoses (see
springs, linkage assembly and carburettor Remove the screws securing the choke illustration 9.3c).
synchronisation springs are arranged to linkage bar to the carburettors, noting the 6 On YZF models, unscrew the nut on the
ensure that they are fitted correctly on plastic washers (see illustration 8.12b). Lift end of the long through-bolt and withdraw the
reassembly (see illustrations). Also note the off the bar, noting how it fits (see illustration bolt, then remove the screws securing the
arrangement of the various hoses, unions, 8.12c). Remove the inner plastic washers (see mounting plate and remove the plate, noting
joint pieces and collars, and of the cable illustration 8.12d). how it fits (see illustrations).
brackets (see illustrations). 5 On UK models, release the clamps securing 7 On FZS models, unscrew the nuts from the
4 Unhook the choke linkage bar return spring, the heating system hoses linking each through-bolts securing the carburettors
9.3e . . . and other components link together - YZF model 9.6a Unscrew the nut (arrowed) and withdraw the bolt...
Fuel and exhaust systems 4«13
9.6b . . . then remove the screws (arrowed) and the mounting 10.1 Fit the choke plunger assembly into the carburettor
plate
together and withdraw the bolts. Remove the 13 Install the throttle synchronisation springs.
spacing collars, noting how the choke cable Visually synchronise the throttle butterfly
lever fits on the top one. valves, turning the adjusting screws on the
8 Mark the position of each carburettor and throttle linkage, if necessary, to equalise the
gently separate them, noting how the throttle clearance between the butterfly valve and
linkage is connected, and being careful not to throttle bore of each carburettor. Make sure
lose any springs or fuel and vent fittings that the throttle operates smoothly and returns
are present between the carburettors, noting quickly under spring pressure.
any O-rings fitted with them. 14 Install the carburettors (see Section 7) and
check carburettor synchronisation and idle
speed (see Chapter 1).
Joining
9 Where fitted, install new O-rings on the fuel
and vent fittings. Lubricate the O-rings with a 10 Carburettors- 10.3a Fit a new O-ring into the groove .
light film of oil and install the fittings into their reassembly and ^k
respective holes, making sure they seat fuel level check ^
completely (see illustrations 8.1 a and 8.1 b).
10 Position the coil springs between the Warning: Refer to the precautions
carburettors, gently push the carburettors
together, then make sure the throttle linkages
are correctly engaged. Check the fuel and
A given in Section 1 before
proceeding
V
11 On YZF models, install the lower or 8.1 b).
mounting plate and its screws, and the long 1 Install the choke plunger assembly into the
through-bolt and its nut, but don't tighten carburettor body and tighten the nut to secure
them completely yet. On FZS models, install it (see illustration). Fit the inner plastic
the two long through-bolts but do not yet washers for the choke linkage bar screws, 10.3b . . . and press the seat into place . . .
tighten them. Set the carburettors on a sheet then fit the choke linkage bar onto the
of plate glass, then align them with a straight- plungers, making sure the slots in the arms
edge placed along the edges of the bores. locate correctly behind the nipple on the end
When the centrelines of the carburettors are of each choke plunger (see illustrations
all in horizontal and vertical alignment, tighten 8.12d and 8.12c). Fit the outer plastic
the screws and nut or bolts securely. washers and secure the linkage bar in place
12 Fit the inner plastic washers for the choke with the screws (see illustration 8.12b).
linkage bar screws, then fit the choke linkage 2 Install the pilot screw (if removed) along
bar onto the plungers, making sure the slots in with its spring, washer and O-ring, turning it in
the arms locate correctly behind the nipple on until it seats lightly (see illustration 8.11).
the end of each choke plunger (see Now, turn the screw out the number of turns
illustrations 8.12d and 8.12c). Fit the outer previously recorded, or as specified at the
plastic washers and secure the linkage bar in beginning of the Chapter.
place with the screws (see illustration 8.12b) 3 On YZF models, if removed, fit a new O-ring
Make sure the choke linkage operates onto the needle valve seat, then press it into
smoothly and returns quickly under spring place and secure it with the screw (see 10.3c . . . and secure it with the screw
pressure. illustrations). Hook the float needle valve
4»14 Fuel and exhaust systems
10.3d Fit the needle valve onto its tab . 10,3e . . . and install the pin 10.3f Install the float assembly .
onto the tab on the float assembly, then install onto the needle valve seat, then install it in the 6 Install the needle jet (see illustration).
the pivot pin (see illustration). Position the carburettor. Hook the float needle valve onto 7 Install the main jet (see illustration).
float assembly in the carburettor, making sure the tab on the float assembly, then position 8 Fit a new gasket onto the float chamber,
the needle valve locates in the seat, and the the float assembly in the carburettor, making making sure it is seated properly in its groove,
pin ends locate in the cutouts, then secure the sure the needle valve locates in the seat, and then install the chamber on the carburettor and
assembly with the screw (see illustrations). install the pin, making sure it is secure. tighten its screws securely (see illustrations).
4 On FZS models, if removed, fit a new O-ring 5 Install the pilot jet (see illustration). On YZF models, make sure the bracket on the
10.3g . . . and secure it with the screw 10.5 Install the pilot jet.
I
10.6 . . . the needle j e t . . . 10.7 . . . and the main jet
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»15
10.8a Fit a new gasket into the groove . . . 10.8b . . . and install the float chamber 10.8c Make sure the bracket locates onto
the union (arrowed)
10.9a Install the needle . . . 10.9b . . . and its holder . . . 10.9c . . . then install the assembly .
chamber locates over and secures the heater 10 On FZS models, if removed, fit the E-clip 11 Fit the spring into the diaphragm
system union (see illustration). into the 3rd groove from the top of the needle, assembly, making sure it locates correctly
9 On YZF models, fit the jet needle into the then fit two of the thin washers on top of it. Also onto the needle holder, then fit the top cover
piston, then fit the needle holder (see slide the thick washer and the remaining thin onto the carburettor, locating the peg into the
illustrations). Fit the piston/diaphragm washer under the E-clip. Fit the jet needle into top of the spring, and tighten its screws
assembly into the carburettor and lightly push the piston, then fit the needle holder. Fit the securely (see illustration).
the piston down, ensuring the needle is piston/diaphragm assembly into the carburettor 12 On YZF models, if removed, install the
correctly aligned with the needle jet (see and lightly push the piston down, ensuring the intake funnel using a new O-ring and apply a
illustration). Press the diaphragm outer edge needle is correctly aligned with the needle jet. suitable non-permanent thread locking com-
into its groove, making sure it is correctly Press the diaphragm outer edge into its groove, pound to the bolts. Do not overtighten them.
seated with the tab on the diaphragm locating making sure it is correctly seated with the tab 13 Install the carburettors, but if the fuel level
correctly into the recess in the carburettor on the diaphragm locating correctly into the (float height) is to be checked do not yet
(see illustration). Check the diaphragm is not recess in the carburettor. Check the diaphragm install the air filter housing or fuel tank (see
creased, and that the piston moves smoothly is not creased, and that the piston moves Section 7).
up and down in the guide. smoothly up and down in the guide. 14 To check the fuel level, position the
!0.9d . . . making sure the rim of the diaphragm locates and seats 10.11 Insert the spring and fit the cover, locating the peg in the
correctly top of the spring
4»16 Fuel and exhaust systems
11 Throttle cables -
removal and installation
10.14b Measuring fuel level -
FZS models Warning: Refer to the precautions
7 Gauge/tubing 3 Drain screw given in Section 1 before pro-
2 Drain hose union ceeding.
a = Specified distance above float chamber Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank, and on YZF models
motorcycle on level ground and support it the air filter housing (see Sections 2 and 4).
using an auxiliary stand so that it is vertical. On FZS models, unscrew the bolts on the
Arrange a temporary fuel supply, either by ignition coil/fuel pump mounting bracket and
using a small temporary tank or by using an free the rubber holder for the wiring loom from
10.14a Measuring fuel level- extra long fuel pipe to the now remote fuel its hole, then displace the bracket - there is
YZF models tank. Alternatively, position the tank on a no need to disconnect any other wiring or
1 Gauge/tubing 3 Drain screw suitable base on the motorcycle, taking care hoses (see illustration 7.3a).
2 Drain hose union 4 Reference line not to scratch any paintwork, and making sure 2 Whilst it is possible to detach the throttle
that the tank is safely and securely supported. cables with the carburettors in situ, there is a
a = Specified distance Connect the fuel line to the carburettors. limited amount of space to work in and it can
Yamaha provide a fuel level gauge (part No, be tricky. If required, displace the carburettors
90890-01312), or alternatively a suitable length to improve access (see Section 7). Mark each
of clear plastic tubing can be used. Attach the cable according to its location (i.e. accelerator
gauge or tubing to the drain hose union on one (opening) cable or decelerator (closing) cable).
of the carburettors and position its open end 3 Slacken the accelerator (opening) cable top
vertically and above the level of the nut and slide the adjuster down in the bracket
carburettors. Slacken the drain screw and until the bottom nut is clear of the lug, then slip
allow the fuel to flow into the tube (see the cable out of the bracket and free the cable
illustration 7.12). The level at which the fuel end from the throttle cam (see illustrations).
stabilises in the tubing indicates the level of Unscrew the decelerator (closing) cable hex
the fuel in the float chamber. Refer to the and slide it down in the bracket until the
Specifications at the beginning of the Chapter captive nut is clear of the lug, then slip the
and measure the level relative to the correct cable out of the bracket and free the cable end
reference point on the carburettor for your from the throttle cam (see illustrations).
11.3a Slacken the locknut... model (see illustrations). If it is incorrect, Withdraw the cables from the machine noting
detach the fuel supply and drain the the correct routing of each cable.
11.3b . . . then free the cable from the bracket.. 11.3c . . . and detach the cable end from the carburettor
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»17
11,4c Separate the halves and detach the cable elbows . . . 11.4d . . . and free the cable ends from the throttle pulley
4*18 Fuel and exhaust systems
13 Exhaust system -
removal and installation
12.3c Remove the choke lever and cable 12.3d .. and free the cable end from the Silencer
elbow.. lever Removal
1 On YZF models, if required for improved
3 Unscrew the two handlebar switch/choke clearance and to avoid the possibility of
12 Choke cable- ^ lever housing screws and separate the two damage, remove the right-hand fairing side
removal and installation halves (see illustrations). Lift the lever and panel (see Chapter 8, Section 3).
elbow out of the housing, noting how they fit, 2 Slacken the clamp bolt securing the
and detach the cable nipple from the lever silencer to the downpipe assembly (see
(see illustrations). illustration).
Removal 3 Unscrew and remove the silencer mounting
1 Remove the fuel tank and the air filter Installation bolt, then release the silencer from the exhaust
housing (see Sections 2 and 4). On FZS 4 Install the cable making sure it is correctly downpipe assembly (see illustration).
models, unscrew the bolts on the ignition routed. The cable must not interfere with any 4 Remove the sealing ring from the end of the
coil/fuel pump mounting bracket and free the other component and should not be kinked or silencer or downpipe assembly and discard it
rubber holder for the wiring loom from its hole, bent sharply. as a new one should be used.
then displace the bracket - there is no need to 5 Lubricate the upper cable nipple with multi- Installation
disconnect any other wiring or hoses (see purpose grease and attach it to the choke
illustration 7.3a). lever (see illustration 12.3d). Fit the lever and 5 Fit the new sealing ring onto the end of the
2 Slacken the choke outer cable bracket elbow into the housing, then fit the two halves downpipe assembly.
screw and free the cable from the bracket on of the housing onto the handlebar, making 6 Fit the silencer onto the downpipe
the front of the carburettors, then detach the sure the lever fits correctly, and the pin assembly, making sure it is pushed fully
inner cable nipple from the choke linkage bar locates in the hole in the handlebar (see home. Align the silencer mounting bracket at
arm (see illustrations 7.4a, 7.4b and 7.4c). illustrations 12.3c and 12.3b). Install the the rear and install the bolt, but do not yet
tighten it.
7 Tighten the clamp bolt to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter, then
tighten the silencer mounting bolt to the
specified torque (see illustrations 13.2 and
13.3).
8 Run the engine and check the system for
leaks.
Complete system
Removal
9 On YZF models, remove the fairing side
panels (see Chapter 8, Section 3).
13.2 Slacken the clamp bolt (arrowed).. 13.3 . . . and remove the mounting bolt 10 Slacken the silencer mounting bolt but do
(arrowed) not yet remove it (see illustration 13.3).
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»19
I3.10a Downpipe assembly bolt - 13.1 Ob Downpipe assembly bolt (arrowed) 13.11 Unscrew the downpipe clamp nuts
YZF models - FZS models (arrowed)
Unscrew the bolt securing the rear of the cylinder head and discard them as new ones its port in the cylinder head, then install the
downpipe assembly to the frame (see must be fitted (see illustration). silencer mounting bolt and the downpipe
illustrations). assembly rear bolt, but do not yet tighten
Installation
11 Unscrew the eight downpipe clamp nuts them.
from the cylinder head (see illustration). 14 Fit a new gasket into each of the cylinder 16 Fit the downpipe nuts and tighten them to
head ports (see illustration). Apply a smear
12 Supporting the system, remove the
silencer mounting bolt, then detach the of grease to the gaskets to keep them in place
the torque setting specified at the beginning
of the Chapter (see illustration). Now tighten
»
downpipes from the cylinder head and whilst fitting the downpipe if necessary. the other bolts to the specified torque.
remove the system (see illustration). 15 Manoeuvre the assembly into position so 17 Run the engine and check the system for
13 Remove the gasket from each port in the that the head of each downpipe is located in leaks.
13.12 Detach the downpipes from the head and remove the 13.13 Lever out the old gaskets and discard them
assembly
13.14 Fit a new gasket into each port 13.16 Fit the downpipe assembly nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque
4*20 Fuel and exhaust systems
2 The fuel pump is controlled through the red/black wire terminal, and the negative (-ve)
14 Fuel pump and relay - starter circuit cut-off relay so that it runs probe to the relay's blue/black wire terminal.
check, removal and installation whenever the ignition is switched "ON" and There should be no continuity. Leaving the
the ignition is operative (i.e., only when the meter connected, now connect a fully
engine is turning over). As soon as the ignition charged 12 volt battery using two insulated
Warning: Refer to the precautions is killed, the relay will cut off the fuel pump's jumper wires, connecting the positive (+ve)
given in Section 1 before starting electrical supply (so that there is no risk of fuel terminal of the battery to the relay's red/black
work. being sprayed out under pressure in the event wire terminal, and the negative (-ve) terminal
of an accident). of the battery to the relay's blue/red wire
Check 3 It should be possible to hear or feel the fuel terminal. There should now be continuity. If
1 On YZF models, the fuel pump is mounted pump running whenever the engine is turning the relay does not behave as described,
on the inside of the frame on the left-hand over - either place your ear close beside the replace it with a new one. If the relay is good,
side, and the relay is mounted under the seat pump or feel it with your fingertips. If you can't refer to Chapter 9 and perform the other
behind the battery - remove the fuel tank for hear or feel anything, check the circuit fuse checks relevant to the relay as described in
access (see Section 2) (see illustrations). On (see Chapter 9). If the fuse is good, check the Section 25 - the relay performs many
FZS models, the fuel pump is mounted on the pump and relay for loose or corroded functions in conjunction with other
underside of the bracket under the fuel tank, connections or physical damage and rectify components in the system, which may also
and the relay is behind the left-hand side as necessary. need testing in order to locate the fault. Refer
cover - remove the fuel tank and the cover for 4 If the circuit is fine so far, switch the ignition to the Wiring Diagrams at the end of Chapter 9
access (see Section 2 for the fuel tank and "OFF". Unplug the relay's wiring connector. to trace the full circuit.
Chapter 8, Section 3, for the side cover) (see Using an ohmmeter or continuity tester, 5 If the pump still does not work, trace the
illustrations). connect the positive (+ve) probe to the relay's wiring from the pump and disconnect it at the
14.5a Fuel pump wiring connector - 14.5b Fuel pump wiring connector - 14.9a Disconnect the fuel hose ,
YZF models FZS models
connector (see illustrations). Using an any spilled fuel, then unscrew the two bolts
ohmmeter, connect the probes to the securing the pump to the frame and remove it 15 Fuel level warning light, fuel
terminals on the pump side of the wiring (see illustrations). gauge/warning light and ^
connector and measure the resistance. If the 10 On FZS models, unscrew the bolts on the sensor - check and replacement jQ
reading is not as specified at the beginning of ignition coil/fuel pump mounting bracket and
the Chapter, replace the pump with a new free the rubber holder for the wiring loom from „
one. its hole, then displace the bracket - there is Fuel level warning light and
no need to disconnect any other wiring or sensor - YZF models
Removal hoses (see illustration 7.3a). Make a note or
Check
6 On YZF models, the fuel pump is mounted sketch of which fuel hose fits where as an aid
on the inside of the frame on the left-hand to installation. Using a rag to mop up any 1 The circuit consists of the sensor mounted
side, and the relay is mounted under the seat spilled fuel, disconnect the two fuel hoses in the fuel tank and the warning light mounted
behind the battery - remove the fuel tank for from the fuel pump, then unscrew the bolt in the instrument panel. If the system
access (see Section 2) (see illustrations securing the pump to the underside of the malfunctions check first that the battery is
14.1a and 14.1). On FZS models, the fuel bracket and remove it (see illustration). fully charged and that the bulb and fuses are
pump is mounted on the underside of the 11 To remove the fuel cut-off relay, good (see Chapter 9). If they are, remove the
bracket under the fuel tank, and the relay is disconnect the relay wiring connector and fuel tank and drain it (see Section 2).
behind the left-hand side cover - remove the remove the relay from its mounting lug (see 2 Using an ohmmeter or continuity tester,
fuel tank and the cover for access (see illustration 14.1 b or 14.1 d) check for continuity between the terminals on
Section 2 for the fuel tank and Chapter 8, the sensor side of the wiring connector. There
Section 3, for the side cover) (see Installation should be continuity. If not, replace the sensor
illustrations 14.1c and 14.1d). 12 Installation is a reverse of the removal with a new one (see below).
7 Make sure both the ignition is switched procedure. Make sure the fuel hoses are 3 If the sensor is good, install the fuel tank,
"OFF". Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2). correctly and securely fitted to the pump - the but do not fill it with the fuel. With the ignition
8 Trace the wiring from the fuel pump and hose from the in-line filter attaches to the "ON", check for voltage at the warning light
disconnect it at the connector (see outer union; the hose to the carburettors bulbholder by connecting the positive (+ve)
illustrations 14.5a and 14.5b). attaches to the inner union. Start the engine probe of a voltmeter to the green/yellow
9 On YZF models, disconnect the remaining and check carefully that there are no leaks at terminal on the loom side of the connector,
hose from the pump, using a rag to mop up the pipe connections. and the negative (-ve) probe to the green
14.9b . . . then unscrew the bolts and remove the pump 14.10 Disconnect the hose to the carburettors (A) and the hose
from the filter (B), then unscrew the bolt (C) and remove the pump
4»22 Fuel and exhaust systems
15.6 Fuel filter screw (A), fuel level sensor screws (B) 15.13 Disconnect the wiring connector from the instrument
cluster
terminal. If no voltage is present, the fault lies 11 If continuity is shown, remove the sensor
in the wiring. Check all the relevant wiring and (see below). Connect the positive (+ve) probe
wiring connectors (see Chapter 9), and of an ohmmeter to the green terminal on the
referring to the Wiring Diagrams at the end of sensor connector, and the negative (-ve)
Chapter 9. probe to the black terminal. Check the
Replacement resistance of the sensor in both the "FULL"
and "EMPTY" positions and compare the
4 See Chapter 9, Section 17, for replacement readings to those specified at the beginning of
of the warning light bulb. the Chapter. If the readings are not as
5 To replace the sensor, remove the fuel tank specified, replace the sensor with a new one.
and drain it (see Section 2). 12 If the resistances are correct, connect the
6 Remove the screw securing the fuel filter sensor wiring connector and turn the ignition
and displace it, then remove the screws switch "ON". With the sensor in the full
securing the sensor and draw it out of the position, the gauge should read "FULL", and 15.15 Fuel level sensor bolts (arrowed)
tank (see illustration). Discard the O-ring. with the sensor in the empty position the
7 Fit a new O-ring onto the sensor and install
gauge should read "EMPTY" (the gauge
it in the tank. Tighten the screws to the torque
needle may not respond immediately - leave it connectors (see Chapter 9), and referring to
setting specified at the beginning of the in the position being tested for at least three
Chapter. the Wiring Diagrams at the end of Chapter 9. If
minutes to accurately check the system). If all the wiring and connectors are good, there
8 Install the tank (see Section 2), and check
not, check all the relevant wiring and wiring could be an internal fault in the instrument
carefully for leaks around the sensor before connectors between the sensor and the
using the bike. cluster wiring between the connector and the
gauge, referring to the wiring diagrams at the bulb.
Fuel gauge, warning light and end of Chapter 9. If the wiring and connectors
sensor - FZS models are good, there could be an internal fault in Replacement
the instrument cluster wiring between the 14 To replace the sensor, remove the fuel
Check connector and the bulb. If not, replace the tank and drain it (see Section 2).
9 The circuit consists of the sensor mounted gauge with a new one. 15 Remove the bolts securing the sensor and
in the fuel tank and the gauge and warning 13 To check the warning light, remove and draw it out of the tank (see illustration).
light assembly mounted in the instrument drain the fuel tank, then connect the fuel level Discard the gasket.
panel. If the system malfunctions check first sensor wiring connector. Remove the fairing 16 Fit a new gasket onto the sensor and
that the battery is fully charged and that the (see Chapter 8) and disconnect the instrument install it in the tank. Tighten the bolts to the
bulb and fuses are all good. If they are, remove cluster wiring connector (see illustration). torque setting specified at the beginning of
the fuel tank and drain it (see Section 2). With the ignition "ON", check for voltage by the Chapter.
10 Using an ohmmeter or continuity tester, connecting the positive (+ve) probe of a 17 Install the tank (see Section 2), and check
check for continuity between the green/red voltmeter to the brown wire terminal on the carefully for leaks around the sensor before
wire terminal and the black wire terminal on loom side of the connector, and the negative using the bike.
the sensor side of the wiring connector. There (-ve) probe to the green/red terminal. If no 18 See Chapter 9, Sections 16 or 17, for
should be continuity. If not, replace the sensor voltage is present, the fault lies in the wiring. replacement of the fuel gauge or the warning
with a new one (see below). Check all the relevant wiring and wiring light.