SOULMAKING
SOULMAKING
Cultural Appropriation
● The process by which the cultures adopt customs and
knowledge from other cultures and use them for their 1. Object Appropriation:
own benefit. Example: Museums and private collectors acquiring ancient
● Refers to the use of objects or elements of non- artifacts from Indigenous cultures without proper consultation
dominant culture in a way that doesn’t respect their or compensation.
original meaning, give credit to their source or
reinforces stereotypes or contributes to oppression. 2. Content Appropriation:
Example: A musician from a Western country covering a
Types of items that tend to be the target of cultural traditional song from a non-Western culture without
appropriation acknowledging the original artist or context.
● Intellectual property
● Artifacts Example: A writer retelling a folktale from a different culture
● Clothing and Fashion without crediting the original source or adapting it to fit their
● Dance own cultural perspective.
● Language
● Music 3. Style and Motif Appropriation:
● Food Example: A fashion designer using traditional patterns or
● Religious symbols designs from a marginalized culture without permission or
● Decorations understanding of their cultural significance.
● Medicine
● Make up Example: A painter incorporating elements of traditional art
● Hairstyles styles from another culture without fully understanding or
● Tattoos respecting the underlying cultural values.
● Wellness Practice
4. Subject Appropriation:
Example: A non-Indigenous person dressing up in traditional
Five (5) Acts of Cultural Appropriation Indigenous clothing for a costume party or Halloween.
It is used to developed and inform the theme of a literary work. 4. Abstract Motif - These are combinations of
color, size, and shape without relationship
The concept of a motif is related to a theme, but unlike a theme to natural or man-made objects. They are full
which is an idea or message, a motif is a detail that is repeated of color and interest in the fabric. Abstract
in a pattern of meaning that can produce a theme while implies an element of impression and a
creating other aspects at the same time. greater freedom that is found in most
geometric designs. This type of design is
It is closely related to a theme or a symbol and uses different used in modern art
narrative elements.
Symbol
It is constantly repeated to represent a dominant or central The term 'symbol comes from the Greek word 'symbolon"
idea or a theme in a work of art. It relates more to thought which means contract, token, insignia and means of
which is used to support a theme. identification (Encyclopedia Britannica, 1997).
Motifs typically are used in one of three ways: Through symbols, ideas and meanings are represented. In a
● A single object that appears multiple times throughout symbol, there is both concealment and revelation. Symbols
the work with most of the emphasis placed on the facilitate communication by giving a common reference point
item. for a variety of original disparate ideas. Symbols are universal,
● A collection of related objects that appear multiple in the sense they transcend history.
times to emphasize the theme.
● A collection of seemingly unrelated items that serve to Symbols depicted on objects allow us to decode some of the
draw attention to the theme in a subtler manner. meanings behind them and understand better the cultures that
made and used them.
Classification of Motif:
The motifs or units of a textile design may be classified as: On some occasions, the object itself, such as an item of
Geometric, Realistic or Natural, Stylized, and Abstract. clothing or a piece of regalia, becomes the symbol. The
motivations behind the use of symbols are varied: to impose
1. Geometric Motif - These motifs include power, to assert position, to protect the wearer or as
lines in various forms, such as vertical, identification with a family or community.
horizontal, diagonal, and curved. They form
fabric designs, such as stripes, plaids, Where not all members of a society are literate, symbols are
checks and circles and their associated crucial in communicating ideas or affinities. They can be
designs. Geometric designs lead the eye representational or abstract, individual or repeated.
in the design or pattern that is created by
them.
Types of Symbols
horizontally.
Yarns and Threads Clothing and blankets can be knitted, and today some artists
also get creative with public art by doing something called
Textiles are often made through traditional methods like yarnbombing. Yarn Bombing involves covering items in the
sewing, weaving, and knitting. neighborhood or external environment, like cars, bicycles or
trees, with knitting.
These Methods all have a basic principle in common --they use
thread or yarn to make or connect pieces of fabric. In sewing, a
single needle and thread stitches pieces of cloth together and
also adds surface ornament. Embroidery, covering the
surface of a textile with decorative pictures and colorful
patterns, is a form of sewing.
Crochet is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet T’nalak has a distinctive tri-colour scheme: White for the
hook to interlock loops of yarn,thread, or strands of other pattern, red for relief elements and black (or deep brown) for
materials. The name is derived from the French term the background. Fibers used in weaving are harvested from
crochet,meaning 'small hook'. the abaca tree and prepared in a process known as
kedungon.
Hooks can be made from a variety of materials, such as metal,
wood, bamboo, or plastic. Two metal blades are used to quickly remove the pulp and
reveal the filaments, which are worked by hand into fine
The key difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the threads.
implements used for their production, is that each stitch in
crochet is completed before the next one is begun, while During tembong, an artisan will connect individual threads end
knitting keepsmany stitches open at a time. to end.
Some variant forms of crochet,such as Tunisian crochet and Temogo, or dyeing, is done in the ikat-style, using beeswax
broomstick lace, do keep multiple crochet stitches open at a and natural pigments. Fibers are first boiled in a black dye for
time. several weeks. Weaving (mewel) is done on a backstrap loom
(legogong) and weaving one piece of cloth can take up to a
Making of: T’nalak Weaving, Philippines month of uninterrupted work. The final stage in the process,
semaki, involves burnishing the fabric with a cowrie shell that
T’nalak is a sacred cloth woven by the T'boli people in is heated by friction. Nut oil is used to condition the fabric and
communities around LakeCebu, Mindanao island. add sheen.
Traditionally made by women of royal blood, thousands of T’nalak is used for ritual purposes, as an offering to the spirits
patterns that reference folklore and stories are known to the and during festival celebrations. It is also exchanged between
T’boli women by memory. families for food and supplies in the T'bolis’ barter economy,
which endures to this day. Many communities rely on the
Fu Dalu, a spiritual guardian, guides t'nalak weaving, a commercial sale of t'nalak to earn a living.
process that is enriched with taboo and ritual.
Why Women of the T'Boli Tribe in the Philippines Are
Called Dream Weavers?
More than simply a honed skill, the craft of weaving for the
T’Boli tribe in the Philippines is a spiritual undertaking.From the
conceptualization of the design, to the actual weaving process
and how the finished product is treated, each part is handled
with utmost sanctity. The women who have preserved this
spiritual tradition are referred to as “DreamWeavers”.
The t’nalak is used in every important life event of the T’boli,
from birth, to marriage, to death.
This, and the belief that it is a gift from nature and their gods,
makes the entire t’nalak tradition a vital part of their culture.
fiber is then tied to another until the thin chain of fibers is long The Mandayapeople live in Mindanao, the second largest
enough for the final product. To color the fibers, natural dyes island in the Philippine Archipelago, specifically along the
are extracted from roots and plants. The most common colors mountain ranges of Davao Oriental.
used are black, red, and white.
The term “Mandaya” comes from the word man, meaning
The sanctity of the tradition is retained throughout the creation “firs,” and daya, meaning “upstream.” In combination,
process. As such, some rules are observed. For instance, they Mandaya means “the first upstream people” and refers to the
aren’t allowed to step over the fabric. They are also instructed indigenous group’s language, traditions, customs, and beliefs.
to avoid any ill disposition while weaving. When the cloth has
finally taken shape, it is flattened by a thorough beating with
wood, and polished with a cowrie shell. The same sacred
respect is carried over to the final product, which is why
stepping on it is prohibited.
The Colorful Weaving Style of Sulu known as PIS SYABIT
One of the interesting aspects that makes the culture of the
Mandaya distinct from other indigenous groups in the country
is their culture of dreaming.
According To the elders, dagmay was bestowed to the The pis syabit is the multi-colored woven cloth of the Tausug. It
Mandaya through a dream by Tagamaling, a spirit linked to life is traditionally worn by Tausug men as a headdress or clothing
and creation. accessory, folded neatly and draped over the left shoulder. It is
worn along with the lapi or upper garments and the sawal or
It was believed that a Mandaya maiden dreamed of Tagmaling loose trousers.
who taught her weaving techniques to create dagmay. From
then on, theMandaya believed that weaving is sacred, and a The pis syabit symbolizes the wearer's elevated position in
real Mandaya weaver will have to say a prayer before starting society. Nowadays, it is common to see even women,
her weave. The Mandaya weavers only weave in tranquil areas especially young students,wearing the pis either in its
in their houses. traditional function or asan accessory in contemporary fashion
such as shawl and neckerchief, or used as a table cover, wall
ornament or tapestry.
First, they pound the bark of a tree and boil it with the abaca
yarn. They then add the mud with a bluish color and let the
yarn boil until their desired tone is achieved.
Weaving Design
The intricate art of weaving introduced various designs. The
most popular is the plain weave such as "binaludto"
(rainbow),"makabimban" (stripes) or "panigabi" (taro).
Inaul
Inaul is the famous Maguindanao handwoven fabric.
Color Symbolism
Colors of yellow and orange represent royalty while red means Uses
bravery. Green signifies peace and tranquility. Inaul is one of the most versatile hand woven textiles ever
conceived. Women in Maguindanao wear it as amalong skit
White, the color of purity spoke of sadness and mourning. and as garments for formal or royal events such as weddings.
Blackmeans dignity. At present, the colors and lines are a Men can wear it as a trouser for formal wear. Wound around a
matter of choice. New designs incorporate pastel to dark man's head it becomes a "turban". Folded "malongs" can be
shades are very commonly used. used as a basket, baby cradle or bag.