A course by Reagen Evans

Pattern Cutting Manual

What is Pattern Cutting?

Pattern cutting is the art of making a design become reality.

"Flat" pattern cutting is the process in which a basic block is used to create a pattern for a new
design. From a sketch or working drawing the information of the design is interpreted onto
paper or card. The block is traced and then set aside. The traced copy is then converted into
the new style using specific pattern making techniques. Sorne patterns (especially far
designers in the higher end of the market) are constructed by draping fabric directly onto the
stand and them converting the fabric into a pattern. This is method is called "Draping" or
"Modelling".

Pattern cutting should be done in conjunction with a dress stand, so that proportion & style
lines can be checked & the correct shapes can be achieved. For this purpose -styling tape can
be used to position necklines, seam lines etc and as an aid to record correct measurements.

lt is only once a pattern has gone through various stages that it is ready to be made up in the
chosen fabric.

The Block

This is a template constructed to fit an average figure, e.g. !adíes size 12. Companies have a set
of measurements far their average customer; the block pattern is developed to fit this
customer. Average measurements are obtained from sizing surveys.

The blocks include "ease" or "tolerance" - this is the extra amount added to the body
measurement to allow for movement over the figure.

Different blocks offer different choice e.g. - the jacket block is cut with greater tolerance
allowing more movement to be worn over other garments.

The bodice and hip blocks are cut to fit closer to the body. The jersey blocks are constructed
with no ease, so that the fabric stretches to fit the body.

AII the essential information such as grain lines, balance notches, waist and hip positions
appear on the block. The block pattern is cut nett (no seam allowance).

lt is essential that the right block is chosen far the design; using the wrong block can seriously
affect the final outcome.

Draft Pattern

Once the design has been established a technical sketch (sometimes called "flats" or "working
drawing") is required, showing the front and back view with all the style and fit details
included. Using the block pattern, these style lines, tucks, gathers, pleats or drapes are
introduced using pattern cutting techniques.

Although the block has been adapted to interpret the chosen design, the fit of the new pattern
will still conform to the basic block. Every detail will be marked on the draft -style lines, darts,
pocket positions etc and should not be cut into. The basic draft should always be retained far
reference.
A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

First Pattern

From the initial draft a first pattern will be made. Pattern sections are traced off and
sometimes further adaptions are made. In more complicated designs, a number of trial
pattern pieces are often required until the best solution is found. Seam allowances are added
to enable the pieces to be sewn together. The pattern can be pinned together onto the stand
to check, and maybe a collar or more complicated pieces can be tried out in calico.

lt is quite usual to make several patterns before the final pattern is produced.

Toile

From the pattern, a toile (mock garment) is constructed in calico (type of cotton). This is done
to check the proportion fit and shape of the garment.

This prototype should be seen on a model to ensure the correct fit and proportions have been
achieved.

Any necessary alterations are made to the toile at this stage and then transferred back to the
first pattern. Again, for complicated designs more than one toile is often necessary to achieve
the perfect outcome.

Final Pattern

When the toile has been approved and any alterations transferred to the pattern, the final
pattern is made. AII the information required in making up the garment, notches, grain lines,
seam allowances etc must be checked and clearly marked.

Accuracy is of the upmost importance, if the pattern pieces do not fit together correctly the
final outcome will not be successful.

From this pattern the sample garment will be cut in the correct fabric.

In industry, once a sample garment has been accepted by the buyers / quality controllers, the
pattern is then graded into the sizes required - usually from size 8 - 18.

Today it is usual to transfer manual patterns on to the computer so that the information can be
digitally sent to factories off shore. This method is widely used by the dress trade because of
accuracy and efficiency with which ranges can be developed. Patterns can also be created
from scratch on screen using up to the minute technology.
A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

Pattern and Fashion Terms

1. BAGGING - A method of joining facings and/or linings to the outer fabric of a garment
by sewing them face to face in the form of a bag and then turning the garment to the
right side.

2. BALANCE NOTCHES - Marks placed on seams, retaining balance and helping the
machinist match the pieces in construction.

3. BESPOKE - Custom-made garments, usually menswear.

4. BIAS - The diagonal cut of the material (to obtain a true bias the material should be
folded at 45 º to the selvage). When a garment is bias cut it can give a soft clinging or
flowing effect.

5. BLOCK -A cardboard master pattern used as the basis for most pattern designs.

6. BREAK UNE -The roll line of a turned back lapel/rever.

7. BUTTON STAND - The extra amount added in pattern construction to allow for a button
fastening.

8. CANVAS - A closely woven fabric often used as an interlining in jackets and coats.

9. CB - Centre back

10. CF - Centre front

11. CROWN - The shoulder area of a sleeve.

12. DART-A sewn shaped tuck pointed at one or both ends to remove excess material and
make a garment fit around the contours of the body.

13. DECOLLETE -A very low neckline.

14. DOUBLE-FACED-The term used for material which can be used on either side.

15. DRAFT -The construction plan of a garment from which the basic pattern is originated
(usually, this is never cut into, but retained for future reference).

16. EASE - When one seam is fuller than the other to which it is to be joined; the excess
material is evenly distributed without gathers or pleats and is then usually pressed
away.
A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

17. FLARE - When an amount is added into an area of a garment to enlarge it (i.e. in the
hem line of a skirt).

18. FLOUNCE OR FRILL - A gathered strip applied to a garment.

19. GORE - A tapered section narrower at the top; usually in skirts.

20. GRAIN -The direction of threads in a fabric; the straight grain (warp) is parallel to the
selvage; the cross grain (weft) is at 90 º to the selvage.

21. GRAIN UNES - Lines marked on a pattern which should be placed parallel to the
selvage.

22. GUSSET - A piece of fabric inserted to strengthen or enlarge an area of a garment.

23. INTERFACING -Fabric for stiffening or reinforcing certain areas of a garment, e.g.
collars, cuffs. Various kinds are available, woven or fibres matted together, and many
come with a fusible finish.

24. MULL, MUSLIN, CALICO -Varying weights of cotton fabric used when testing patterns.

25. PEPLUM - A small hip frill at waist on bodice.

26. PILE -A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn, introduced into the
fabric, ie velvet and corduroy. Any fabric with a pile, ora one-way print, must have all the
pattern pieces cut in one direction depending on effect required. Velvet, for instance,
gives a darker, more matt finish when pile is directed upwards, whilst a lighter, shinier
effect is achieved when used in the opposite direction.

27. REVER /LAPEL The upper part of the front edge of a garment which folds back on to
the garment.

28. STAY TAPE - A piece of tape sewn along with the seam to strengthen and/or to prevent
stretching.

29. TOLERANCE - An amount added to body measurements when constructing a pattern

or block. This extra amount allows for movement of the garment overa figure.

30. WRAP - The amount by which the finished edges of a garment overlap when
worn-usually with a buttoned fastening.
A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

The Basic Bodice Block

Darts are structural lines which are necessary to shape a flat piece of fabric to a three
dimensional figure.

In the basic bodice block there are two darts at the front to shape the fabric over the bust and
into the waist.

(The designer will not often require the garment to have the darts in the original position. The
darts can be moved to create the required look.)

Bust dart

Shoulder dart

CB

CF
Center Back Line

straight grain

straight grain

Center Front Line

Bust line

2.5 cm below armhole Bust Point

Waist Position

Waist suppression darts

A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

Grain line
The grain is the term used to indicate the direction of threads in a fabric.

The grain line which appears on your pattern usually runs parallel with the selvedge edge (the
finished edge) of the cloth.

The reason for marking grain lines on the

pattern is to ensure the garment is cut on Cross grain
the true grain of the cloth. Ensuring the

Salvage edge
correct "hang" of the garment.

The straight grain on the pattern runs

parallel with the centre front and centre

)e
ap
back and at 90 degrees to the waist.

dr
Straight of grain

d
an
The bias grain is 45 degrees from the

ce
straight grain. Garments cut on the bias

un
bo
have a more drapier effect.

or
(f
s
ia
B

CB
straight grain

straight grain

CF
straight grain
A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

Labelling Pattern
Once draft is complete, trace off each separate section onto a new piece of pattern paper
transferíng grain lines, notches and ali relevant detaíls.

Each piece needs to be labelled with the correct information as below.

C
B
C
F
Back Front
cut 1 cut 1
pair size 12

Cut on fold
size 12
Bust Point

The followíng list shows informatíon which should be íncluded on each piece of pattern you
complete, and also shows abbreviations used in pattern cutting.

Grain Lines - need to be drawn on each piece and marked wíth an arrow at each end (Grain
lines are marked parallel to the CF & CB except in a few cases, eg a flared panel could have the
grain line marked through íts centre, and a piece to be cut on the bias would have a line
marked at a 45º angle)

Notches - must be mrked to ensure the garment is sewn together correctly. Notches are
almost always marked at 90º to the seam line on which they are placed.

Seam Allowances - should be marked on the pattern as dífferent edges could have different
seam amounts. lf no seam allowance is required mark the pattern N.S.A (no seam allowance)
or NETT. Or as in díagram above CUT ON FOLD.

Construction lines - such as darts, button holes, pocket placings, tucks, pleats should all be
marked on the pattern piece. These can be drawn on or are sometimes shown by drill holes

NUmber of pieces to cut- such as CUT 1 PAIR, CUT 1 R.S.U. (right side up).

Size - of the pattern eg SIZE 12

CF (centre front) and CB (centre back) positions should always be marked on the pattern.

Name of the piece - eg FRONT, SIDE PANEL, TOP SLEEVE

A course by Reagen Evans
Pattern Cutting Manual

Seam Allowance
Seam allowances will vary depending on the following factors

● Method of manufacture (eg, overlocked seam, run & fell seam)

● Type of fabric used to make the garment
● Type of garment (e.g shirts or outerwear)

Manufacturers require finished patterns to have seam allowance added onto the patterns.

The basic seams, which include side seams, shoulder, waist, style seams, armhole and sleeve
head should each have a seam allowance of 1 cm

Enclosed seams such as the collar edge, front edge, pocket flaps can have seam allowance of
5mm or 7mm (depending on fabric / garment).

Hems depend on the required finish so can vary from 1 cm to 5cm.

Wider seam allowance is required for fabrics that fray easily and if a wide topstitch is required.

Seam allowances must be clearly marked on your patterns.

1 cm seam allowance
CF

straight grain

Notches
Balance notches are very important as they are used to make sure the pattern pieces are sewn
together at the correct points; side seams, shoulder seams end sleeves to armholes etc.

Notches are also used to mark the dart width to ensure they are sewn correctly.