got raw

milk?
Nature’s perfect food?
Or public enemy number one?
Here’s why a growing number
of families are turning to raw
milk, despite the hype.
Photograph by TK

by Marygrace Taylor

kiwimagonline.com 00
67
 "I notice most [kids] get chronic ear infections, and many also deal with asthma and allergies. But my
kids don't have any of that, and I think it's at least in part due to the fact that they drink raw milk."

L
iz Reitzig’s oldest daughter, Alyssa, began ered one of the biggest health advances of the 20th century decreased incidence of allergies, says Mark Gebhart, can be detected through lab tests, and in addition to
having digestive issues before she turned 1, because it dramatically reduced the number of people M.D., a public health professor at Wright State Uni- regular, mandatory testing by state agencies, many
when she started eating solids and drinking getting sick and dying from diseases spread through milk,” versity in Dayton, Ohio. Gebhart was wary when he raw dairy farmers also have their milk tested inde-
pasteurized cow’s milk. Desperate to find says Isabel Maples, a registered dietitian and spokesperson first began researching raw milk in the late 1990s, but pendently even more often than what their states
a solution, Reitzig took her daughter to for the Mid-Atlantic Dairy Association. became convinced of its benefits after attending a meet- require. California-based Organic Pastures, the
several doctors, but none were able to offer Raw milk is the stuff that is bottled and sold for ing for a local chapter of the Weston A. Price Founda- largest raw dairy in the country (their 400 dairy cows
a diagnosis or treatment advice. So at the consumption without being pasteurized. (A gallon of tion, a nutrition education nonprofit that advocates produce 2,200 gallons of raw milk each day), volun-
suggestion of some friends and family members, she and organic raw milk can run anywhere from $9 to $12, the benefits of raw milk. His three children went “from tarily tests samples of their milk 12 times a day, says
her husband decided to try raw milk, which they heard compared to a gallon of oranic pasturized milk, which breast milk to raw milk,” and, like Reitzig’s children, founder Mark McAfee.
wasn’t associated with the same digestive problems as its costs about $5.) By not subjecting the milk to high heat, rarely get the ear infections common in many young But foods we eat all the time—like raw spinach,
pasteurized counterpart. “We were skeptical at first, but advocates say, it retains health-promoting properties kids. But the benefits of raw milk might go far beyond peanut butter, and even pasteurized milk—can and
soon our daughter’s digestive problems went away,” says that would otherwise be destroyed: Raw milk is rich decreased incidence of childhood illnesses: “Drinking do get contaminated, too, and they’re not considered
the mom from Bowie, Maryland. Now, the Reitzigs and in beneficial bacteria that can help boost the immune raw milk keeps the human gut well-populated with controversial. Is raw milk really that different? The gov-
their five kids, ages 10, 8, 6, 4, and 1, all drink raw milk. system and enhance absorption of calcium and vitamins. beneficial microbial organisms,” says Gebhart. “That can ernment says yes. According to the Centers for Disease
Despite the dramatic warnings from healthcare It also contains digestive enzymes not found in pasteur- help with Crohn’s disease, irritable bowel syndrome, and Control, raw milk is too risky to drink, and its beneficial
organizations, they have no intention of stopping. With ized milk, which is thought to be the reason why people even celiac disease, since high levels of good bacteria can claims are unfounded. The agency recently bolstered
3 percent of the U.S. population identifying themselves with lactose intolerance are often able to drink raw milk help rebuild healthy intestinal tissue.” its position with a newly released review of U.S. dairy
as raw milk drinkers, the Reitzigs are part of the small without a problem. Raw milk may also contain higher product outbreaks that occurred between 1993 and
but passionate—and growing—number of families and levels of omega-3 fatty acids. What are The risks of raw milk? 2006. Of the 121 outbreaks where the pasteurization
individuals turning to raw milk in an effort to improve Some raw dairy farmers follow very strict proto- status was known, 60 percent was determined to have
their health with traditional, unprocessed foods. But Why do people prefer raw? col to ensure the milk their cows produce is safe, been caused by raw milk. But that means the remain-
should your family do the same? Pasteurized or raw, milk is a nutritious food: It’s high in like cleaning pens to avoid mud or waste buildup, ing 40 percent of illnesses were caused by pasteurized
protein and calcium, and contains additional nutrients controlling rodents and birds, and having milkers milk. What’s more, approximately 48 million Americans
Raw, pasteurized—what’s like potassium (as well as vitamin D, in pasteurized, for- wash their hands immediately before milking. But a get sick from food-related illnesses each year, and even
the difference? tified varieties). But not everyone can drink it—between clean milking process is different than a sterile one the FDA says people are roughly 10 times more likely
You probably don’t think of milk as a processed food, 30 and 50 million Americans are lactose-intolerant, (which is impossible to achieve, and why pasteuriza- to get sick from deli meats or non-reheated hot dogs
but in almost all instances, it is. Before being sold, the and milk is the second most common allergen among tion was adopted in the first place). There’s always than from raw milk. “Every time there is a possible
vast majority of milk in the United States is pasteurized, children. For some, it may worsen ADHD symptoms the possibility that milk could become contaminated connection between illness and raw milk, government
or heated to high temperatures for a short period to kill or cause mucus, congestion, or acne. Consumers of raw by manure, infected cow udders, or matter from the officials issue dire press releases and call for bans on

Photograph by andrew McCaul; prop styling by kira corbin

illness-causing bacteria like salmonella, e.coli, listeria, milk, even many who can’t tolerate the pasteurized stuff, surrounding environment, all of which could harbor raw milk sales,” says the Weston A. Price Foundation
and campylobacter. Pasteurization, which was developed like Reitzig’s daughter, say they don’t experience many harmful bacteria like e. coli, salmonella, or campylo- president Sally Fallon Morell. “However, these numbers
in the late 1800s, became widely used in response to of these problems—and feel even better when they bacter. Usually, the bacteria result in stomach cramps, fail to justify the government opposition and prove
rising cases of tuberculosis, scarlet fever, typhoid fever, drink raw milk. “As a mom of five, I spend a lot of time diarrhea, and fever that lasts about a week. But young what we’ve known all along, that raw milk is a safe and
and other infections caused by consuming raw milk around young kids. I notice most of them get chronic children, the elderly, and others with weakened healthy food,” she says.
produced in unsanitary environments. In 1908, Chicago ear infections, and many also deal with asthma and al- immune systems could be at risk for more serious
was the first city to pass a mandatory pasteurization lergies. But my kids don’t have any of that, and I think complications, such as hemolytic uremic syndrome Is raw milk right
law in an effort to improve public health, and in 1924, it’s at least in part due to the fact that they drink raw (HUS), a potentially life-threatening kidney infection for your family?
the U.S. Public Health Service started helping states milk,” says Reitzig. caused by e. coli. “Pasteurizing milk nearly eradicates Should families drink raw milk or not? The American
develop voluntary pasteurization programs. Michigan European research confirms Reitzig’s hunch. Several these risks, but with raw milk, there’s no safety net,” Academy of Pediatrics says no, since harmful bacteria
became the first state to require pasteurization in 1947. recent studies have shown that children who consume says Maples. are more likely to cause serious illness in young children
In 1987 the FDA began requiring that all milk sold for raw milk instead of pasteurized are less likely to have Plenty of people drink raw milk and don’t get sick and pregnant women than in older kids or adults. But
interstate commerce be pasteurized. Today, milk-borne allergies, asthma, and hay fever. The effect may come from it. Problem is, the only way you’ll know if your not all pediatricians say raw milk is taboo. Doctors at
illnesses account for less than 1 percent of reported from raw milk’s high levels of beneficial enzymes and batch of milk is contaminated is if you get sick after Pediatric Alternatives, an integrative medicine practice
food-borne illness outbreaks, compared to its peak of 25 bacteria that help strengthen our immune systems, drinking it, since you can’t spot the bad bacteria by in Mill Valley, California, have been recommending
percent nearly 100 years ago. “Pasteurization is consid- resulting in fewer illnesses, increased vitality, and looking at, smelling, or tasting the milk. The germs raw milk to families for 10 years, including homemade

Would you give your child raw milk? Do you already? Share this articl
68 kiwi october/november 2012
and your opinion with your moms' group or at greenmomsmeet.com
 formula made with raw milk for babies who can’t be
breastfed. “Many of our kids are thriving on raw milk,”
says Lindy Woodard, M.D. of Pediatric Alternatives.
“Some of them had allergies that got better after drink-
ing it, and some were considered lactose intolerant on
pasteurized milk.”
This past spring, 10 Californians developed
infections from the bacteria campylobacter that were
traced back to raw cream (raw milk and raw milk prod-
ucts were also recalled, though no one was hospitalized
and there were no deaths). While Woodard is troubled
by the outbreak, she still recommends raw milk because
she believes it’s a nutritious food, but also reminds
parents that consuming raw milk can come with a risk
and to watch for any signs of fever or diar-
rhea after they or their kids consume it. “Some of our
families are committed to whole, unadulterated foods—
they know their farmers and feel consuming raw milk
is worth the risk. Others can’t imagine why they would
take any risk at all,” Woodard says. With both sides of
the raw milk debate in gridlock, the decision is left up
to individual families: “Drinking raw milk is a personal
choice,” says Reitzig. “If you look into it and decide that
it’s for you or that it isn’t, that’s fine. Parents are smart
enough to make that choice.”

where can you get raw milk?

Drinking raw milk is legal in all 50 states,
but that doesn’t always mean it's easy to buy.
Consumers can buy raw milk from stores in
states like California and Pennsylvania, but
in states like Texas and New York, the milk
has to be purchased on the farm where it’s
produced. Since interstate sales of raw milk
are illegal, residents of states that don’t allow
the sale of raw milk—like Wisconsin or New
Jersey—often turn to herd shares. In a herd
share, consumers buy a share of a dairy cow
from a farmer (the money goes toward
housing the cow, caring for it, and milking it)
and in exchange receive some of the cow’s
milk (learn about your state's law at
farmtoconsumer.org/raw_milk_map.htm).
Since herd share members are technically
part-owners of the cows themselves, they
also own the cow's milk, and therefore don't
have to buy it.

70 kiwi october/november 2012