PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with

CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Supplies & Resources

SUPPLIES
• Awl
• Drafting curve
• Muslin
• Pattern paper and tag or poster board
• Regular and red pencils and eraser
• Scissors (paper and fabric)
• Tape measure
• Tracing wheel
• Transparent ruler (2" x 18" with grid)
• Transparent tape
• Pins and pattern weights
• Optional:
Sleeve ease Any ease allowance beyond the
• Dress form
size and shape of the arm.
• Identifying stamps
Biceps level A sleeve guideline level with the
• Notcher
biceps.
• Pattern hooks
Elbow level A sleeve guideline level with the
• Pattern punch
elbow.
Wrist level A sleeve guideline level with the
RESOURCES
wrist.
• Instructor’s website: apparelartsproductions.com
Sleeve base The base of the sleeve regard-
• Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women’s
less of length.
Clothing by Suzy Furrer (Apparel Arts, 2008)
Quartering a sleeve Dividing the sleeve into four
• Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing
parts using guidelines drawn in
(Simon & Schuster, 2010)
the original draft of the sleeve.
• The Sewing Book by Alison Smith (DK Publishing,
These lines are labeled quarter
2009)
lines.
SLEEVE TERMS Notches On the cap, one notch is used
Sleeve cap The area on a sleeve pattern to indicate the front 3½" (9
between the notches. cm) from the underarm, and
Cap ease The difference between the two notches indicate the back
sleeve measurement and the at 3" and 3¼" (8.3 cm) from
armhole measurement. The the underarm. Notch to show
allotted ease is usually ½" (12 where the sleeve meets the
mm) on blouse and dresses shoulder seam on the bodice.
sleeves and up to 1" (2.5 cm) on Notch both sides of the elbow
jacket and coat sleeves. Loose- guideline.
fitting sleeves or knit sleeves do
not need any ease at all.

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Measurements

The measurements used in the class relate to a size 8

Roxy dress form.
Take the following measurements before drafting a
sleeve. Measure on the arm the client favors (right or
left) because that arm is usually more muscular. Ask a
client if they are right- or left-handed. Have the client
1
place their hand on their high hip. This will give the
arm a bend and add some ease while measuring. 2

1. Shoulder: ____________
Measure the front shoulder on your pattern. 5

2. Elbow Length: ____________

With the client’s hand on their hipbone, measure 4
from the end of shoulder to the middle of the
bent elbow. 3
3. Sleeve Length: ____________ 6
With the client’s hand on their hipbone, measure
from the end of shoulder to the center of the
elbow, then continue measuring to the outside of
the wrist bone, clearing the wrist bone.
4. Elbow Breadth: ____________
With the hand on the hipbone, measure around 7
the bent elbow. measure
on other
5. Biceps: ____________
hand
Flex the biceps by having the client bring their
fingertips to their shoulder. Measure around the
biceps.
6. Wrist: ____________
Measure around the wrist using the wrist bones as
a guide.
7. Hand: ____________
With extended fingers and the thumb tucked
under, measure around the knuckles at the base
of the fingers. A sleeve opening in a woven
fabric should not be smaller than the hand
measurement or the opening will not fit.

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Sleave Square Size Chart & Diagram

TOTAL ARMHOLE
(Front + Back Armhole SQUARE SIZE
+ Ease)
15" (38.1 cm) 25/8" (6.7 cm)
15¾" (40 cm) 2¾" (7 cm)
16¼" (41.3 cm) 27/8" (7.3 cm)
Square Square
16¾" (42.5 cm) 3" (7.6 cm)
17¼" (43.8 cm) 31/8" (7.9 cm)
17¾" (45.1 cm) 3¼" (8.3 cm)
18¼" (46.4 cm) 33/8" (8.6 cm)
18¾" (47.6 cm) 3½" (8.9 cm)
19½" (49.5 cm) 35/8" (9.2 cm)
20¼" (51.4 cm) 3¾" (9.5 cm)
20¾" (52.7 cm) 37/8" (9.8 cm)
21¼" (54 cm) 4" (10.2 cm)
22" (55.9 cm) 41/8" (10.5 cm)
22¾" (57.8 cm) 4¼" (10.8 cm)
23½" (59.7 cm) 43/8" (11.1 cm)
23¾" (60.3 cm) 4½" (11.4 cm)
24¼" (61.6 cm) 4¾" (12.1 cm)
25" (63.5 cm) 47/8" (12.4 cm)

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Pattern Record Card

Date: Company:
Season:
Style No.:
Style
Description:
Size Range:

PATTERN PIECES SELF INTERFACING LINING

TRIMS TECHNICAL SKETCH (FRONT & BACK VIEW)

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
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Suggestions on Ease

DRESSES & BLOUSES already has 2" (5.1 cm) of ease, just add an additional
Most dresses and blouses stick with the ease that is 3" to 6" (7.6 cm to 15.2 cm) ease. To add ease with a
included in your sloper. The sloper has about 2" (5.1 coat, I will generally, cut my pattern apart from base
cm) of ease at the bust, waist and hips. Therefore, no to shoulder somewhere toward the side of the sloper
adjustment is needed. However, if you have a sleeve- (to avoid the dart points). I will then insert ½" (1.3 cm).
less dress or blouse, then take ¼" (6 mm) off at the This will add ½" (1.3 cm) ease per quarter panel from
underarm/bust on both the front and back to bring base to shoulder. Then, if I want more ease, I will add
the ease down to 1" with a sleeveless garment. Ease of to the side seams. There are four side seams so divide
2" (5.1 cm) does make for a tighter fit so you can think the extra ease desired over those four side seams.
about using a stretch woven for a little more comfort. Remember to follow the shape of the side seam.
For example, let’s say you want 6" (15.2 cm) total ease
JACKETS
on your jacket. You already have 2" (5.1 cm) in the
Jackets generally have 3" to 4" (7.6 cm to 10.2 cm) of
sloper and you will add ½" (1.3 cm) to each quarter
ease at the bust, waist and hips. Since the sloper al-
panel by cutting the pattern apart, front and back,
ready has 2" (5.1 cm) of ease in it, just add ¼" (6 mm)
and adding ½" (1.3 cm). ½" x 4 panels = 2" (1.3 cm
to ½" (1.3 cm) down the entire side of the front and
x 4 panels = 5.1 cm) in addition to the 2" (5.1 cm) in
back. There are four side seams so divide the extra
the sloper. I am now up to 4" (10.2 cm) ease. I want
ease desired over those 4 side seams. Remember to
6" (15.2 cm) so I have 2" (5.1 cm) more to add. Add
follow the shape of the side seam.
½" (1.3 cm) down each side seam (½" x 4 side seams
For example, let’s say you want 3" total ease on your = 2" [1.3 cm x 4 side seams = 5.1 cm]). 2" (5.1 cm) in
jacket. You already have 2" (5.1 cm) in the sloper so the sloper + 2" (5.1 cm) total insertion to the pattern
by adding ¼" (6 mm) to all four side seams, you have pieces + 2" (5.1 cm) down the side seams = 6" (15.2
just increased the total ease to 3" (7.6 cm) (¼" x 4 side cm). This way I have distributed the ease over the en-
seams = 1", plus the 2" you already have = 3" [6 mm tire pattern rather than having it all come out toward
x 4 side seams equals 2.5 cm, plus the 5.1 cm you the sides.
already have = 7.6 cm]). If you want 4" (10.2 cm) ease
In addition to the ease out the side, drop the arm-
total, then add ½" (1.3 cm) to all four side seams (½"
hole anywhere from 2" to 3" (5.1 cm to 7.6 cm). If the
x 4 side seams = 2", plus the 2" you already have = 4"
dropped armhole interferes with your side dart, then
[1.3 cm x 4 side seams = 5.1 cm, plus the 5.1 cm you
temporarily manipulate your side dart into a French
already have = 10.2 cm]).
dart to get it out of the way of the armhole. You can
In addition to the ease out the side, drop the armhole manipulate that French dart out into a different style
anywhere from 1" to 2" (2.5 cm to 5.1 cm). line later if you want.
The shoulder on a jacket is usually extended ½" to 1" The shoulder on a coat is usually extended around ¾"
(1.3 cm to 2.5 cm). Always extend the cross front or to 1¼" (1.9 cm to 3.2 cm). Remember you already ex-
cross back around about half of what the shoulder tended the end of shoulder and cross front and cross
was extended (¼" to ½" [6 mm to 1.3 cm]). back by ½" (1.3 cm) with the insertion of the ease
Connect the points from the new end of shoulder, to the earlier so consider that when adding more. Remem-
new cross front/back, to the new underarm/bust point. ber to extend the cross front and back about half of
what the shoulder was additionally extended.
COATS Connect the points from the new end of shoulder, to the
Coats generally have 5" to 8" (12.7 cm to 20.3 cm) new cross front/back, to the new underarm/bust point.
of ease at the bust, waist and hips. Since the sloper

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Order of Operations

It is not unusual to have to mockup a garment three • Draw the side.

times before you find the fit and style lines to your • Draw the waist shaping if needed.
satisfaction. Be patient! The mock up process will get • Draft in a button placket. Remember, the
quicker as you gain more experience. extension from the center front guideline is as
the amount of the button. Don’t forget to draw in
Make a note to add seam and hem allowances when
the button placket facing (commonly twice the
cutting the mock up. If this is a final pattern, add
extension, plus ¼" [6 mm]). Mark the placement
seam and hem allowances to the pattern before cut-
of the buttons/buttonholes.
ting into your fashion fabric.
• Add a pocket if desired and mark its placement.
DRAFTING BLOUSES OR BUTTON DOWN (Most blouses/shirts have a patch pocket.)
SHIRTS • Shape the base if desired.
Front • Note the measurement of the neckline to draft a
• Trace the front sloper to the low hip. collar.
• Adjust the garment length as desired by squaring • Note the measurement of the armhole to draft a
down from the low hip guideline. sleeve.
• Adjust the ease at the bust, waist and hips. Back
(Usually a blouse has the same ease as is in your • Trace the back sloper.
sloper so no adjustment is necessary.) • Adjust the length as front.
• Decide the depth at center front neckline. • Adjust the ease as front.
• Decide the placement of the high neck point and • Draw back contouring if the garment has a center
remember the rule for wide necklines. back seam. Adjust the waist dart accordingly.
• Draw the neckline. Include a neckline dart if • Decide the depth at center back (this point usually
necessary. A neckline dart is necessary if the center stays the same).
front is lower than the radius around the bust. • Decide placement of the high neck point (as
• Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or determined by the front and the wide neckline rules).
manipulated? • Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or
• Adjust the end of shoulder. manipulated out?
• Adjust the cross front (generally in or out half the • Adjust the end of shoulder so the back shoulder
amount the end of shoulder was adjusted). width is 1/8 to 3/8 wider than the front. This excess
• Will the armhole dart be sewn, ignored or is then eased into the front shoulder length in
manipulated? If you are including a sleeve sewing. (This allows for more comfort when the
the armhole dart is generally ignored. If it is a arms extend to the front.) However, this cannot
sleeveless garment either sew or manipulate the be done if you are using a shoulder yoke on the
armhole dart. garment because the front and back shoulders
• Lower the base of the armhole if desired. are merged to make one yoke piece. Also, a
• Redraw the armhole. shoulder dart is usually folded out of a shoulder
• Decide if there will be a princess seam or other yoke so that is a consideration as well.
style line such as a yoke and draft that in. • Adjust the cross back. Adjust in or out half the
• How will the side dart be used? Manipulated or amount the end of shoulder was adjusted.
sewn? This dart cannot be ignored or the front • Lower the base of the armhole if lowered in front.
and back sides will not line up. • Redraw the armhole.
• How will the waist dart be handled - sewn, • Decide if there will be a princess seam or other
ignored, manipulated? style line and draft that in.

CONTINUED »

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
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Order of Operations

• How will the waist dart be handled? Sewn, the underarm/bust guideline for 1" [2.5 cm)]ease
ignored or manipulated? total.) For a dress with sleeves, keep 2" (5.1 cm)
• Draw the side. ease at the underarm bust.
• Draw in the waist shaping if used. • Decide the depth at center front.
• Shape the base. Make sure there is a smooth • Decide the placement of the high neck point and
transition from front to back. remember the rule for wide necklines.
• Note the measurement of the neckline to draft • Draw the neckline. Include a neckline dart if
the collar. necessary.
• Note the measurement of the armhole to draft • Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or
the sleeve. manipulated?
• Adjust the end of shoulder.
Sleeves
• Adjust the cross front (generally in or out half the
• Draft a sleeve pattern using the measurements of
amount the end of shoulder was adjusted).
the front and back armhole. Decide if you will be
• Will the armhole dart be sewn, ignored or
adding ease to your sleeve. A loose fitting sleeve
manipulated?
does not necessarily need ease.
• Lower the base of the armhole if desired.
• Add design details to your sleeve like a placket,
• Redraw the armhole.
pleat or cuff.
• How will the side dart be used? Manipulated or
Collar sewn? This dart cannot be ignored or the front
• Measure the front and back neckline and draft and back sides will not line up.
your collar piece or pieces. • Draft the "skirt" to the dress as desired. Will there
Pocket be a waist seam? Will the "skirt" be a flare, a pencil,
• Draft your pocket. or a straight shape?
• Decide if there will be a princess seam or any
Front & Back other style line and draft that in.
• Cut the pattern pieces apart on the style lines. • How will the waist dart be handled - sewn,
Manipulate darts. Fold or cut away the waist ignored, manipulated?
shaping. • Draw the side.
• True the each and every piece of the pattern • Draw the waist shaping if needed.
• Include notches and grain lines. • Add a pocket if desired.
• Mark each pattern piece with a name and how • Include a slit if desired.
many to cut and out of what fabrication. • Shape the base if desired.
• Note on the pattern what trims will need to be • Draw a facing if desired.
used. • Measurement the neckline if you will be adding a
• Fill out a pattern record card if desired. collar.
• Measure the armhole if you will be adding a
DRAFTING DRESSES WITH OR WITHOUT sleeve.
SLEEVES
Front Back
• Trace the front sloper to the low hip. • Trace the back sloper to the low hip.
• Adjust the garment length as desired by squaring • Adjust the length as front.
down from the low hip guideline. • Adjust the ease as front.
• Adjust the ease at the bust, waist and hips. (With • Draw back contouring if the garment has a center
a sleeveless dress, remove ¼" [6 mm] ease from back seam. Adjust the waist dart accordingly.

CONTINUED »

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
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Order of Operations

• Decide the depth at center back. Sleeves

• Decide placement of the high neck point (as • Draft a sleeve pattern using the measurements of
determined by the front and the wide neckline rules). the front and back armhole. Decide if you will be
• Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or adding ease to your sleeve. A loose fitting sleeve
manipulated out? If a client has broad shoulders does not necessarily need ease.
or hunched shoulders, it can help to include
Collar
the shoulder dart. The garment will be more
• If desired, draft a collar using the measurements
comfortable when extending the arms forward.
of the front and back neckline.
• Adjust the end of shoulder so the shoulder widths
match from front to back. If you are adding Pocket
sleeves, think about adding an additional 1/8" (3 • Draft pocket pieces if the design calls for it. Don’t
mm) to 3/8" (1 cm) to the back shoulder width. You forget to mark pocket placement on your front
can then ease out this extra width when sewing draft.
so it matches the front. Only do this if you are Facings & Linings
adding sleeves. It allows for more comfort when • Trace pieces for facings. Remember to trim 1/8" (3
the arms are extended forward. mm) around the neck and armholes on all facing
• Adjust the cross back. Adjust in or out half the pieces.
amount the end of shoulder was adjusted. • Trace off for lining pieces. Lining should end
• Lower the base of the armhole if lowered in front. about ¾" (1.9 cm) higher than the finished
• Redraw the armhole. garment.
• Draft the "skirt." Is there a waist seam?
• Decide if there will be a princess seam or other DRAFTING JACKETS & COATS
style line and draft that in. What is the difference between a jacket and a coat?
• How will the waist dart be handled? Sewn,
ignored or manipulated? I get this question a lot. The answer comes down to
• Draw the side. ease and length. You can wear a coat over a jacket,
• Draw in the waist shaping if used. but not a jacket over a coat. Jackets are cut closer to
• Draw a back facing if desired. the body (ease of about 3" to 4" [7.6 cm to 10.2 cm] at
• Draw a slit at the center back. the bust, waist and hips). Jackets generally have a fin-
• Shape the base. Make sure there is a smooth ished length of somewhere around the low hip area.
transition from front to back. Coats are cut longer in length - from the mid-thigh
• Measurement the neckline if you will be adding a to ankle length and have more ease (4" to 8" [10.2 cm
collar. to 20.3 cm]) at the bust, waist and hips.
• Measure the armhole if you will be adding a sleeve. Front
Front & Back • Trace the front sloper to the low hip.
• Cut the pattern pieces apart on the style lines. • Adjust the garment length as desired by squaring
Manipulate darts. Fold or cut away the waist down from the low hip guideline.
shaping. • Adjust the ease at the bust, waist and hips. (3" to
• True the pattern. 4" [7.6 cm to 10.2 cm] for a jacket and 4" to 8"
• Include notches and grain lines. [10.2 cm to 20.3 cm] for a coat).
• Mark each pattern piece with a name and how • Think about grading the waist down ¼" to ½" (6
many to cut and out of what fabrication. mm to 1.3 cm) depending on fabric thickness. Do
• Note on the pattern what trims will need to be used. this by cutting across the front pattern about 2"

CONTINUED »

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
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Order of Operations

up from the waist and adding in ¼" to ½" (6 mm Back

to 1.3 cm). This will drop the waist. You want to • Trace the back sloper.
do this because as garment layers stack up at the • Adjust the length as front.
shoulders, the waist guideline will rise. • Adjust the ease as front.
• Decide the depth at center front neckline. • Grade the waistline down as front.
• Draft in a extension. Remember, the extension • Draw back contouring if the garment has a center
from the center front guideline is as the amount back seam. Adjust the waist dart accordingly.
of the button. Mark the placement of the buttons/ • If there is a center back seam, consider adding
buttonholes. 3/8" (1 cm) out at the center back cross back
• Decide the placement of the high neck point and guideline. Blend from zero at the center back
remember the rule for wide necklines. neck, out to the 3/8" (1 cm) and then back into the
• Draw the neckline. back contouring shape. This will allow for more
• Draw in a lapel if the design calls for it. comfort when moving the arms forward.
• Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or • Decide the depth at center back (this point usually
manipulated? stays the same).
• Adjust the end of shoulder. • Decide placement of the high neck point (as
• Adjust the cross front (generally in or out half the determined by the front and the wide neckline rules).
amount the end of shoulder was adjusted). • Will the shoulder dart be sewn, ignored or
• Leave the armhole dart in for fullness. This is manipulated out? If the clients has broad
necessary when you put in a sleeve. shoulders, consider including the shoulder dart
• Lower the base of the armhole. Lower about 1" for comfort.
(2.5 cm) for a jacket and 2" to 3" (5.1 cm to 7.6 cm) • Adjust the end of shoulder so the back shoulder
for a coat (or as desired). width is 1/8 to 3/8 wider than the front. This excess
• Redraw the armhole. is then eased into the front shoulder length in
• Decide if there will be a princess seam or other sewing. (This allows for more comfort when the
style line such as a empire or waist seam and draft arms extend to the front.)
that in. • Adjust the cross back. Adjust in or out half the
• How will the side dart be used? Manipulated or amount the end of shoulder was adjusted.
sewn? This dart cannot be ignored or the front • Lower the base of the armhole as it was lowered
and back sides will not line up. in front.
• How will the waist dart be handled - sewn, • Redraw the armhole.
ignored, manipulated? • Decide if there will be a princess seam or other
• Draw the side. style line and draft that in.
• Draw the waist shaping if needed. • How will the waist dart be handled? Sewn,
• Add a pocket if desired and mark its placement. ignored or manipulated?
(Most jackets and coats have welt pockets, but • Draw the side.
you can design in any pocket.) • Draw in the waist shaping if used.
• Shape the base if desired. • Shape the base. Make sure there is a smooth
• Note the measurement of the neckline to draft a transition from front to back.
collar. • Draw in a slit or kick pleat at center back.
• Note the measurement of the armhole to draft a • Note the measurement of the neckline to draft
sleeve. the collar.
• Note the measurement of the armhole to draft
the sleeve.
CONTINUED »

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
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Order of Operations

Sleeves your jacket or coat, then let your lining hang free
• Draft a sleeve pattern using the measurements and hem it separately from your fashion fabric.
of the front and back armhole. Decide if you will (Though you could attach them at the side seams
be adding ease to your sleeve. Jackets and coats with a thread chain.
should not have more than 1" (2.5 cm) ease. A • Think about adding a pleat down the center back
loose fitting sleeve does not necessarily need of your lining for added comfort.
ease.
Front Shoulder Reinforcement & Back Stay
• Add design details to your sleeve vent or cuffs.
• If you are feeling particularly ambitious with your
Collar jacket or coat pattern, research front shoulder
• Measure the front and back neckline and draft reinforcements and back stays. You can add those
your collar pieces. pattern pieces to your jacket. (Recommended
Reference: Tailoring, by Creative International Press)
Pocket
• Draft your pocket pieces. Front & Back
• Cut the pattern pieces apart on the style lines.
Front & Back Facing
Manipulate darts. Fold or cut away the waist shaping.
• Draft in your front and back facing pieces.
• True the each and every piece of the pattern
Lining • Include notches and grain lines.
• Draft lining pieces for the front and back (excluding • Mark each pattern piece with a name and how
the areas where there is a facing). Add a jump pleat many to cut and out of what fabrication.
to your linings so you can bag your lining. Only bag • Note on the pattern what trims will need to be used.
your lining when you have a straight jacket or coat • Fill out a pattern record card if desired.
with a slit or kick pleat. If you have a flared hem on

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 PATTERNMAKING + DESIGN: with
CREATIVE SLEEVES Suzy Furrer

Sleeve Sloper Reference Diagram

A T
H D
C
K
N
O
P
F L
V G E U
M

R Q S
Y Z

W a I d B b e J X c

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