Original Article: Increasing Portion Size in Britain
Original Article: Increasing Portion Size in Britain
Original article
____________________________________________________________________________
Abstract
British obesity levels have risen significantly in the past two decades, with over half
of all British adults now overweight or obese (NEPHO 2005). Much research has
been undertaken in the United States into the effect of historical changes in food
portion sizes upon obesity levels, with positive correlations being found in the
majority of research (Young & Nestle 1998 & 2002, Rolls et al 2002). Despite the
recent interest in food portion sizes and obesity, little research has been conducted
within Britain to date. This explorative study aimed to address the gap in the
literature by ascertaining the extent to which food portions sizes have changed in
Britain over the past century and to examine the causes of any such changes. Several
qualitative and quantitative research methods were employed to conduct this
research which consisted of national food survey analyses, manufacturer data
analyses, recipe analyses, food portion size exercises, questionnaires, a focus group
and the creation of two threads on website forums. The research showed that
portion sizes have changed dramatically in Britain, with the most significant
increases occurring within the past twenty years. The qualitative research highlighted
that not only are increasing portion sizes affecting caloric intake, but the increasing
prevalence of snacking is also an issue. There is no one explanation for these
changes in dietary habits however, it appears that the main causes of the increase in
British portion sizes are a combination of intensive farming methods, the effects of
globalisation, in particular Britain’s intensive exposure to American culture, and the
notion of ‘waste not want not’ which appears embedded in the publics
consciousness. Levels of lay comprehension of increasing portion sizes are
questionable, and it appears that even those people who are aware of the negative
impact that larger than standard portions can have, still struggle to refrain from
over-eating. The lack of public advice on appropriate portion sizes for different
individuals only adds to the confusion among the public as to appropriate amounts
to consume and begs us to consider future public information into food portion
sizes.
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
than ever before, which appears to be Nestle and Young (1998) and
having a marked effect upon the health of Wansink et al (2005) showed that most
the population (Irwin 2000). Similar individuals cannot accurately estimate
changes in diet are notable within portion sizes and are thus unable to
Western society also, as meat calculate caloric intake, a phenomenon
consumption has also risen dramatically, which has become known as “portion
with the end of rationing in the UK distortion” (Schwartz & Byrd-Bredbenner
heralding a new era of frequent meat 2006). It is argued that “portion-
consumption, synonymous with financial distortion” has occurred as a result of
stability. frequent exposure to large portion sizes in
Nestle and Young (2002) were restaurants and ready meals and these
some of the first researchers to investigate extreme portions have now become the
the effect of portion size upon obesity. norm. It has also been consistently
Their research into changes in portion demonstrated that as portion size
size in the USA has shown that, not only increases so does consumption, with
are market place food portion sizes supersize portions directly increasing the
increasing, but they are often exceeding amount of food consumed in one sitting
the recommended portion size, (Rolls et al 2002, 2004; Wansink et al
sometimes by 480% in the case of pasta 2005).
dishes. Increases in food portion sizes Much research has been conducted
inevitably affect caloric intake and if this into the demography of individuals more
excess energy is not expended then likely to consume larger portions. Rolls et
weight gain is unavoidable. One of the al (2002) and Wansink and Ittersum
areas which has shown the most notable (2007) looked at the responses of
changes in food portion size is the fast individuals to discreet changes in food
food industry (Nielsen & Popkin 2003), portions, and an abundance of food and
which offers super size and value portions although there were significant data to
of their meals (Spurlock 2005, Nestle illustrate that consumption increased
2003). It has been shown that as a result simultaneously with food portion size,
of these ‘value adding’ practices it is often there was no evidence that any of the
cheaper to consume these value meals types of individuals highlighted in the
than it is to purchase a standard sized hypotheses were either more or less likely
meal (Nielsen and Popkin 2003). These to consume more food. That anyone is
trends are particularly prominent in the susceptible to “portion distortion” has
United States where food is increasingly however recently been challenged by
consumed away from the home, with Burger et al (2007) who found that an
over a third of families eating one fifth of individual’s BMI accounted for 28-51%
their meals in the car, as a result of the of the variance in choice of food portion
‘time famine’ with which dual income size.
families are faced (Turner et al 2008). Despite the wealth of research
available for changes in portion size in the
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
United States, very little has been treat. In a publication on food control
conducted elsewhere, except for the work during the preceding war years the
of Rozin et al (2003). They found that Ministry of Food stated;
despite the French gastronomic traditions ‘Since 1940 Britain has suffered a
of rich food, there was a significantly shortage of nearly all the more appetising
lower prevalence of obesity in France and popular staple foods. Meat, fish,
than in the United States, a phenomenon butter, eggs and sugar have been
referred to as the ‘French Paradox’. They scarce……People have been compelled to
found that much less food is consumed in satisfy their physical needs by filling up
one sitting and snacking is much less with larger quantities of the bulky and
commonplace than in America, and argue less attractive vegetable and cereal
that it is the different attitudes towards foodstuffs still obtainable.’
the ecology of eating which most (Ministry of Food 1946)
significantly affect obesity levels.
As the research here looks at Changes in British agricultural policies
changes in food portion sizes in Britain since 1950, similar to those in the USA,
over the past century it is important to have resulted in intensive farming
put the British eating environment into methods which provide an abundance of
context before exploring the work that cheap foods. The Common Agricultural
has been conducted. The main factors Policy was created after the establishment
which have affected British consumption of the Common Market and was intended
habits are, arguably, the impact of the to create a single agricultural policy which
Second World War and rationing and the would be used by a collective of different
introduction of intensive farming European countries and would enable
methods. countries to increase production and
At the outbreak of the Second export which had dropped so dramatically
World War (1940) rationing was swiftly during the war years (Fennell 1997). The
introduced as a result of Britain’s heavy deficit which was left by the war was
reliance on imported foodstuffs and the quickly filled however, and a drive
need to direct resources toward the War towards intensive farming has resulted in
effort. The rationing scheme categorized a profusion of foods which has never
foodstuffs intro three groups; rationed been experienced before.
foods (meat, bacon, ham, fats, cheese, Research conducted by Davey
sugar and sugar products), quasi-rationed (2004) into obesity in Britain found that
foods (milk and eggs) and un-rationed British manufacturing, marketing and
foods (local, seasonal fruit and vegetables) consumption habits have evolved in a
(Zweiniger-Bargielowska 2000). As a similar vein to those in the USA. The
result of rationing, people subsisted on research also showed that, in today’s
staples of potatoes, bread and vegetables, Britain, portion sizes have increased, with
with more luxurious items such as meat the introduction of ‘Super Size’ chocolate
and sugar products being viewed as a rare bars and ‘Big Eat’ packets of crisps
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
Figure 3: Changes in mean portion size consumed per person, per week, for four major food
groups
Protein
80.0
Protein
Carbohydrate
Fruit & Veg
Fats & Sugars
60.0
Mean Weight in Oz
40.0
20.0
0.0
1911 1935 1948 1960 1972 1984 1996 2007
1926 1942 1954 1966 1978 1990 2002
Year
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Figure 4: Changes in quantities of proteins consumed per person, per week in Britain
Food
100.0
Meat
Cheese
Fish
80.0
Mean Weight in Oz
60.0
40.0
20.0
0.0
1911 1935 1948 1960 1972 1984 1996 2007
1926 1942 1954 1966 1978 1990 2002
Year
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
Figure 5: Changes in quantities of carbohydrates consumer per person, per week in Britain
Food
100.0
Cereals/Grains
Potatoes
80.0
Mean Weight in Oz
60.0
40.0
20.0
0.0
1911 1935 1948 1960 1972 1984 1996 2007
1926 1942 1954 1966 1978 1990 2002
Year
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
Snacking
Snacking arose as a topic without prompting during the focus group and
among those participating in the website forum threads. Many participants
said that snacking has become commonplace, and that this was the main cause
of rising obesity levels.
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
Along with the notion of too much snacking, the typical types of
snacks consumed were criticized by the female participants as being unhealthy
and inappropriate to eat between meals. Findings from both the focus group
participants and results of the survey showed great correlations in the types of
foods typical consumed as a snack, with crisps, chocolate bars and biscuits all
proving to be the most popular types of snack, while nuts, yoghurts, cereal
bars were the least popular. It is frequently the most popular types of snacks
which are sold in larger portion sizes, with chocolate bars, biscuits and crisps
all frequently come with a ‘big eat’, ‘king size’ or ‘super size’ option.
Some quantitative data was gathered later on in the research process, in
light of the regularity with which the issue of snacking arose, but the sample
size was not large enough with which to conduct a statistical analysis. What
the preliminary data showed was that males tended to consume more snacks
per day than females and that younger people consumed more snacks than
middle aged and elderly people on average.
Discussion
From the results presented in the preceding section, it is evident that there has
been a definite increase in food portion sizes over the past century, with the
largest increases having occurred during the past twenty years. These findings
support the initial hypothesis that British food portion sizes have increased
throughout the past century, but it was expected that these changes would be
steady increases and the significance of the last twenty years was not
predicted. This trend is likely to be a result of changes to British Agricultural
Policy, with the introduction of the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP
introduced in the 1950s) becoming evident in national consumption levels.
The CAP encouraged intensive farming methods which allowed food to be
produced more cost effectively for the consumer (Fennel 1997). These
changes in farming policy, along with subsidies, have resulted in an abundance
of cheap, readily available food (Davey 2004). This was also noted by
participants, with particular reference to the relatively recent affordability of
meat and the temptation to consume more than ever before. The effect of
rationing upon British food portion sizes appears to have altered the way in
which food portion sizes are regarded today. The slogan ‘waste not, want not’,
introduced during the period of rationing in Britain appears to have become
firmly embedded in a portion of the public’s consciousness, as many
participants stated that they felt guilty if they left food on their plates, as they
had been encouraged from an early age never to leave anything. This
sentiment was predominantly expressed by older participants, but also to a
lesser extent by subsequent generations. One explanation for the continual
existence of this attitude amongst subsequent generations is that this notion
has been passed down in families and has become instilled in the minds of
individuals who are now food secure, despite being detrimental to their health.
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
previously only the wealthy could consume vast quantities, and so meat and
fish begin to carry notions of grandeur, success and status. Zweiniger-
Bargielowska (2000) argues that during the period of rationing the shortage of
meat particularly impacted the working-class as meat was not only a status
symbol and but also a marker of male privilege. When meat availability
increased it was the natural response of individuals to then consume
significantly more meat products, as this represented both a freedom from the
restraints of rationing and a show of status not only within the household, but
also within the immediate community. The effect of meat and fish prices
plummeting in today’s market encourages over-consumption among all
members of the public, with an unconscious drive to aspire to eat meat and
fish daily and in quantities previously inconceivable to many families. The
investigation into self-selected portion sizes of meat shows that the average
daily consumption of meat is large and, thus, it must be inferred that portion
sizes of meat are getting larger. This point is supported by the research into
changes in market place products whereby individual portions of both meat
and fish dishes increased between the years of 1988 and 1993 and, therefore,
the probability of further increases since this period are high.
Levels of cereal and grain consumption have increased at a much faster
rate than other food groups. However, despite an initial surge in potato
consumption during the 1990s, rates are once again beginning to decline in
line with the overall trend throughout the century. Increased grain and cereal
consumption can be attributed to the CAP, with intensive crop farming
methods making these foods much more affordable, but it is also likely to be
due to changes in food habits. Within the past thirty years, British consumers
have begun to diversify in the types of foods they eat, with the introduction of
more international cuisines heralding a new culinary era in Britain and
increased travel and immigration have raised interest and consumption of
‘ethnic’ and ‘foreign’ foods such as rice, pasta, polenta, couscous and different
types of breads. These changes in culinary habits not only affect consumption
levels of cereal and grain products, but can also explain decreases in potato
consumption, as other carbohydrate options are being selected as substitutes.
This is supported by the qualitative research, with many participants saying
that they felt they had become more adventurous in the types of foods they
consumed and cooked, and that their eating habits now adopted a ‘more
international outlook’.
This research also attempted to ascertain whether or not there were
particular characteristics which would deem an individual more or less likely
to consume large portion sizes similar to work done in America on this
subject (Rolls et al 2002; Wansink & Ittersum 2007; Burger et al 2007). In
concurrence with the US findings, the results showed that neither gender nor
age had a direct effect upon consumption of large portion sizes overall.
However, when analyzing self-selected portion size in relation to particular
food groups, there were some significant differences whereby women chose
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
Conclusion
This research has demonstrated that, within Britain, portion sizes have
increased, particularly within the last twenty years, and that the population is
aware of these changes. However, the majority struggle to resist over-
consumption. The main driving forces in increasing portion sizes appear to be
the effect of intensive farming, the impact of globalisation and
Americanisation and also the impact of rationing during the Second World
War, with it’s accompanying slogans such as ‘waste not, want not’.
Unfortunately, with the lack of research currently being conducted within
Britain as to the effect of increased portion sizes, the impact of snacking upon
obesity levels, along with the slow progress in the standardisation or control
of increasing portion sizes, it may be a while before any actual changes are
seen within this sector. This explorative study has highlighted the changes in
portion sizes which are occurring in Britain and prompts further in-depth
research to be conducted into the effect of portion size upon obesity levels in
Britain, as well as looking at British attitudes towards snacking and the meal as
a formal occasion. It can be concluded that, should portion sizes remain over-
sized or more worryingly increase, the impact of governmental legislation and
advertisement in the future to prevent these trends may have much less
impact, as the phenomenon of ‘portion distortion’ may be too embedded to
change.
Acknowledgements
I wish to thank my supervisor, Gillian Bentley, for all her support and
guidance throughout the research process, along with all those who kindly
participated in this study.
Society, Biology & Human Affairs 2009; 74(2)
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