Part A

Drafting system

1. Basic plain & derivatives: Skip draft

2. Basic twill : Straight draft
3. Diamond, Zig-zag (horizontal) : Pointed draft
4. Zig-zag (Vertical) : Straight draft
5. Herringbone (Horizontal) : Broken draft
6. Herringbone (Vertical) : Straight draft
7. Diaper (Balanced) : Broken draft
8. Diaper (Not Balanced) : Straight draft
9. Broken : Straight draft
10. Rearranged : Straight draft
11. Corkscrew : Odd no : Straight draft
12. Corkscrew : Even no : Divided draft
13. Step twill : (Horizontal) : Broken draft
14. Step twill : (Vertical) : Straight draft
15. Elongated twill : Straight draft
16. Combined : Warp way : Divided draft
17. Combined : Weft way : Straight draft
18. Basic satin : Straight draft
19. Crepe : Sateen base : Straight draft
20. Crepe : Reversing : Straight draft
21. Crepe : Superimposing :
22. Crepe : Plain based : Divided draft

Weaving

1. Plain weave
2 3
• Regular Warp Rib plain weave: (2X4) = , (2X6) =
2 3
3 3
• Irregular Warp Rib plain weave: (2X4) = , (2X5) =
1 2
1 1
• Regular Weft Rib plain weave: (8X2) = 1
(4) , (6X2) = 1
(3)
1 1
• Irregular Weft Rib plain weave: (8X2) = 1
(5 + 3) , (5X2) = 1
(3 + 2)
2 3
• Regular Matt plain weave: (4X4) = (2) , (6X6) = (3)
2 3
3 4
• Irregular Matt plain weave: (5X5) = 2
(3 + 2) , (6X6) = 2
(4 + 2)
2 3
• Stitch Matt plain weave: (4X4) = 2
(2) , (6X6) = 3
(3)
2 3
• Fancy Matt plain weave: (4X4) = 2
(2) , (6X6) = 3
(3)

2. Satin weave
4 7
• Regular Warp satin: (5X5) = 1
(m → 3) , (8X8) = 1
(m → 5)
5 3
• Irregular Warp satin: (6X6) = 1 , (4X4) = 1
 1 1
• Regular Weft satin (Sateen): (5X5) = 4
(m → 3) , (8X8) = 7
(m → 5)
1 1
• Irregular Weft satin (Sateen): (6X6) = 5 , (4X4) = 3
3. Crepe weave
• Sateen based : Sateen & Multiple Twill
• By reversing : Motif & Reverse Motif
• By superimposing : Sateen (m1) & Sateen (m2)
• On a plain weave base : Sateen & Multiple Twill & Plain

4. Twill weave
3 4
• Horizontal Zig-zag Twill : (10X5) = , (14X7) =
2 3
3 4
• Vertical Zig-zag Twill : (5X10) = 2
, (7X14) = 3
3 4
• Horizontal Herringbone Twill : (10X5) = 2
, (14X7) = 3
3 4
• Vertical Herringbone Twill : (5X10) = , (7X14) =
2 3
2 3
• Diamond Twill : (8X8) = , (12X12) =
2 3
2 3
• Diaper Twill : (8X8) = 2 , (10X10) = 2
3 2
• Broken/ Reversed Twill : (6X6) = 3 , (4X4) = 2
3 2
• Re-arranged/ Transposed Twill : (6X6) = 3 , (4X4) = 2
4 2
• Corkscrew Twill : Odd : (9X9) = 2 1 (m → 5)
4 3
• Corkscrew Twill : Even : (12X6) = &
2 3
2
• Warp way Stepped Twill : (16X4) =
2
2
• Weft way Stepped Twill : (4X16) =
2
4 2 5 2
• Warp way Elongated Twill : Even: (5X10) = 2 2 Odd: (11X11) = 2 2
4 2 5 2
• Weft way Elongated Twill : Even: (10X5) = 2 2 Odd: (11X11) = 2 2
4 3 2 1
• Single Shaded Twill : 1 2 3 4
1 2 3 4 4 3 2
• Double Shaded Twill : 4 3 2 1 2 3 4
2 3
• Warp way Combined Twill : (24X12) = &
2 3
2 3
• Weft way Combined Twill : (12X24) = 2 & 3

Part B
Fancy design or structure of Fabric

• Huckaback : 2 X Odd no : 10X10 , 10X6 - Devon

• Mock leno : Even no : 6X6 , 8X8, 10X 10, 12X12
• Ordinary Honeycomb : Multiple of 2 : 6X6 , 8X8 , 8X10, 10X8
• Brighton Honeycomb : Multiple of 4 : 8X8 , 12X12, 16X16
• Distorted warp thread effect : 2 X Odd no / (4n+2) : 14X14
• Distorted weft thread effect : 2 X Odd no / (4n+2): 14X14
 • Plain face Bedford cord : (2 X Even no) + 4 : 12X4 , 16X4
• Wadded Bedford cord : Even no + 4 : 14X4
• Ordinary Pique / Welt structure : Multiple of 2 : (6X8), (6X10)
• Weft wadded Welts / Pique : Multiple of 2 : (6X8), (6X10)
• Fast back Welt or Pique structure : Multiple of 2 : (6X8), (6X10)

Color and Weave effects

Design Name Weave Order of color Repeat size

End & end coloring pattern 1 1:1 (2X2)
𝑃𝑙𝑎𝑖𝑛
1
Continuous line effect 2 2:2 (4X4)
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙
2
Hair line / Pin stripe 2 2:2 (4X4)
(2) 𝑀𝑎𝑡𝑡
2
Crow’s foot 1 2:2 (4X4)
a. 𝑃𝑙𝑎𝑖𝑛
1
2 4:4 (8X8)
b. (2) 𝑀𝑎𝑡𝑡
2
Dog’s tooth / hund’s tooth 2 4:4 (8X8)
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙
2
Shepherd’s check 2 6:6 (12X12)
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙
2
Allover effect 4 6:6 (12X12)
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙
4
Bird’s eye Motif of crepe weave 2:2
Stepped Twill pattern 2 1:1 (4X4)
a. 2
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙
3 2:1 (6X6)
b. 3
𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙

2
• Glen check : 𝑇𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙 → 4:4 & 2:2 → (64X64) & For double check (128X128)
2
• Extra thread : Plain weave & Motif
2 2 2
• Tubular cloth : Plain weave, Hopsack 2
2 , Weft rib 2
, Twill 2
• Stitched double cloth :
➢ Self stitch double cloth : Face (8X8) & Back (8X8) = (16X16)
Face (4X4) & Back (6X6) = (12X12)
➢ Wadded double cloth :
o Warp wadded : Face (8X8) & Back (8X8) & Wadded thread 8 = (24X16)
o Weft wadded : Face (8X8) & Back (8X8) & Wadded thread 8 = (16X24)
➢ Centre stitch double cloth :
o Centre warp stitch : Face (5X5) & Back (5X5) & Stitch thread 1 = (11X10)
o Centre weft stitch : Face (5X5) & Back (5X5) & Stitch thread 1 = (10X11)

KHALID HASAN
YE 43