TLE

Dressmaking 10
Quarter 1

Drafting basic Final Pattern for Skirt

Specialization: Dressmaking

Hello learners! This module is designed for you, to help you learn, evaluate,
make decisions, communicate, develop confidence and make your own projects in
Technical Vocational Education under the Dressmaking specialization. Moreover, it
will also help you understand the importance of Dressmaking. The lessons are
arranged to follow the standard sequence directed to the achievement of learning
objectives.

A. Content Standard: The learner demonstrates understanding on the principles

of designing and sewing of ladies’ skirts.
B. Performance Standard: The learner plans, designs and sews ladies’ skirts.
LO 1. Draft and cut pattern for ladies’ skirts
1.3. Draft basic/block pattern
1.4. Manipulate pattern
1.5. Cut final pattern

LESSON 4. DRAFTING THE BASIC AND FINAL PATTERN

Objectives:

A. Draft the basic/block pattern for ladies’ skirt properly,

B. Manipulate the pattern for ladies’ skirt
C. Cut final pattern for ladies’ skirt correctly.

Multiple Choice. Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the letter that
best describes the statement. Write your answer in your answer sheet.
1. How would you make sure that lines are perpendicular when drafting pattern?
a. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
b. Always use the tape measure in measuring lines.
c. Use French curve if necessary.
d. Draw vertical lines first before horizontal lines.
2. Why should you use hip curve in drawing or shaping the hip part?
a. To save pattern paper c. to produce a perfect curve
b. To make clean edges d. to create bigger hips
3. Which of the following will simplify your drafting activities?
a. Locating the 2 major lines c. locating the 3 major lines
b. Drafting the back pattern first d. drafting the fundamental lines
4. How would you locate the waist darts of skirt?
a. Fold the tape measure into 4 c. Get the midpoint of the waistline
b. Fold the waistline into 4 D. Locate anywhere you want
5. How would you start drafting the back skirt pattern?
a. On the basic back skirt pattern, from 1 to 6B, use one-fourth waist
measurement plus 4 cm. Connect 3 to 6B with a broken line.
b. From 4 to 7B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6B to 7B
by using a hip curve.
c. From 5B to 8B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7B to
8B.
d. From 3 to 9B, use one-half bust point width minus 1.5 cm.

Direction: Label the body measurements shown in the pictures.

1 4
2

3
 Activity 1
Try It!
Draw the fundamental lines in drafting the basic pattern of ladies’ skirt then
write the steps.
Criteria:
Sketch/Lines- 4 pts
Measurement- 4 pts
Neatness - 2 pts
Total = 10 pts.

Drafting Basic/Block Pattern of the Skirt

Patterns are carefully drafted to give accurate results. They serve as valuable
guide in laying, cutting and assembling the different parts during sewing.
Pattern drafting gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look
like. It also serves as a guide for the dressmaker.

Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns

1. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-square.
2. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
3. Hip curve is necessary in shaping the hip part to produce a perfect curve.

Two kinds of Patterns:

1. Foundation Pattern is a simple pattern which contains the exact body
measurements and reflects no definite style, This pattern serves as a basis for
preparing the style pattern.
2. Style/Final Pattern- shows the style of the garment to be constructed. It contains
the necessary seam allowances that are found in the finished garment.
 In drafting the foundation pattern, the following common tools and materials
should be ready:

A. Drafting Tools:
 Tape measure
 L-square
 Hip curve
 French curve
 Pencil with/and eraser
 Scissor
 Sharpener
B. Material
 Pattern paper (positioned on its lengthwise grain)

A complete set of drafting tools by a professional pattern maker

Pattern Markings are universal symbols and lines designed to help the sewer
put the pattern pieces together quickly, easily and successfully. Every marking is
necessary for specific reason. Not every marking is on every pattern because some
are specific to a certain style or construction technique. Construction markings are
very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a must.

Drafting the Fundamental Lines for the Skirt

A. The Skirt Pattern (front and back) In drafting the skirt (front and back) pattern,
locating the four major lines will simplify your drafting activities.

Procedure:
1. On your pattern paper, draw a perpendicular
line T. Mark the midpoint as 1.
2. From 1, measure 1 cm down to get 2.
3. From 1, measure 1½ cm down to get 3.
4. From 1, measure 18 cm to 25 cm down to get 4.
5. From 2, apply the front skirt length down tom get 5F
6. From 3, apply the back skirt length down to get 5B.
7. Square 4 and 5B to the left.
Fundamental Lines in Drafting Block
8. Square 4 and 5F to the right. Pattern of Skirt

Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern

1. On the basic back skirt pattern, from 1 to 6B, use one-fourth waist
measurement plus 4 cm. Connect 3 to 6B with a broken line.
2. From 4 to 7B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6B to 7B
by using a hip curve.
3. From 5B to 8B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7B to
8B.
4. From 3 to 9B, use one-half bust point width minus 1.5 cm.
5. From 9B to 10B, measure 4 cm.
6. Get the midpoint of 9B and 10B,
and mark this 11B.
7. From 11B to 12 B, measure 15 cm.
Connect 9B, 10B, and 11B to 12B to
form the waist dart.
8. Fold 9B over 10B. Connect 3 to 6B
with a slight curve.
9. From 6B to 13B, use the back skirt
side length.
10.Connect 5B to 13B with a slight
curve.

Back Skirt Pattern

Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern
1. On the basic front skirt pattern, from 1 to 6F, use one-fourth waist measurement
plus 2.5 cm. Connect 2 to 6F with a broken line.
2. From 4 to 7F, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6F to 7F
with a slight curve.
3. From 5F to 8F, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7F to 8F with
a straight line.
4. From 2 to 9F, use one-half bust point width minus 2 cm.
5. From 9F to 10F, measure 2.5 cm.

6. Get the midpoint of 9F and 10F, and mark

this 11F.

7. From 11F to 12F, measure 8cm to 13 cm.

Connect 9F, 10F, and 11F to form the waist
dart.

8. Fold 9F over 10F. Connect 2 to 6F with a

slight curve.

9. From 6F to 13F, use the front skirt side

length.

10. Connect 5F and 13F with a slight curve.

Front Skirt Pattern

Drafting the Waistband Pattern

*Prepare a piece of pattern paper with this measurement:

Width: 3 inches

Length: waist (front + back) + 3 inches

Drafting the Seam Pocket Pattern
1 to 2 = 10 inches downward(waistline
midpoint), draw perpendicular line
6B(front) to 3 = 1 ½” inward
3 to 4 = 6 inches downward, slanting
4 to 5 = 2 ½” downward, then 1 cm slanting
5 to 6 = curve line touching line 2

Drafting the Final Patterns

One interesting part of pattern drafting is developing its final pattern. Final
pattern will be indicated with the needed symbols that will guide the
dressmaker/tailor during the layout of the pattern on the material. Some of the
symbols that can be seen on a finished pattern are the following:

Pattern Symbol Description How to use

Grainline – heavy solid Place pattern piece on

line with arrows at fabric with arrow
each end parallel to selvage.

Button and buttonhole Mark position where it

placement - solid lines should be indicated
that indicate length of
buttonhole

Dart - broken line Mark, fold along

forming a “V” shape, center line and
usually at hipline , bust carefully match lines
line and dots. Stitch to a
point.

Seamline - long Refer to specific seam

broken line, usually
allowances
5/8” (1.5 cm)
 inside cutting line.
Hem - hem allowance Turn hem up to the
is printed on the specified amount,
cutting line. adjusting as
necessary.

Cutting Line - heavy Cut exactly on this

solid line along outer line when making the
edge of pattern. May final pattern.
also designate a cut-off
line for a certain view.

Note: To manipulate the skirt pattern, fold the waist dart then draw again the
waistline.
Then you can now start adding the necessary seam allowances needed:

Front And Back Skirt Pattern:

Waistline ¼ inch ( 1.3 cm.)

Sides ¾ inch ( 2 cm. )

Hemline 1 ½ inches ( 4 cm )

Waistline:
¼ inch all around

Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern

Before cutting out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the
item you are making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. If
there are no more alterations to be made, just trim patterns to your size.

1. Identify which size to be used for different areas of your body. Use a colored pen
and trace the cutting lines.
2. Use a sharp pair of scissor in cutting the pattern. If you slip and make a cut
where you shouldn’t have, simply tape it back into place. The important thing is
that the shape is retained and that you can still read the markings. Cut carefully
along the cutting lines.
3. Check for seam allowances. Notice the grain lines. The word “directional” means
moving with the grain. In cutting garment pieces from fabric, look at the pattern
piece. You will notice that by cutting from wide to the narrow part of a piece, you
cut with less pull on the grain of the fabric. This is called directional cutting.
4. Use long, even stroke about 1 inch from the end of the blades of the shears. If
you close the blades with each stroke, the result cut edge will be choppy and
uneven.
5. As you come to the notches (diamond-shaped marks) on the cutting line, cut
them around away from the pattern.
6. Trim multi-size pattern pieces. Single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to
shape ; just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue.

Independent Activity 1
Drafting the Basic Pattern of the Skirt

Take your own body measurement (ask assistance if necessary) then draft the basic
skirt pattern.

The rubrics to be used in evaluating your output are the following:

 Independent Assessment 1

1. In manipulating the block pattern, you need to add seam allowance to each
piece. Which seam allowances are exactly correct for the front and back?
a. waistline ½”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ¾”
b. waistline ¼”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ½”
c. waistline 1 ¼”, sides 1 ¾”, hemline 2 ½”
d. waistline 1 ¼”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ½”
2. How many inches should be the allowance for the sides of pocket?
a. ¾ inch b. 1 ½” c. 1 inch d. 2 inches
3. What is the proper measurement of seam allowance for the waistband?
a. 1 inch b. ¾ inch c. ½ inch d. ¼ inch
4. If you will label the final pattern, which of the following is the correct label for
the seam lines?
a. heavy solid line with arrows at each end c. broken line forming a “V” shape
b. long broken line, usually 5/8” d. heavy solid line along outer edge
5. If single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to shape, what would you do
then?
a. just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue
b. slowly use the tip of the scissors without lifting the pattern
c. be sure to make its identical pieces
d. cut anyway you want

Patterns should be carefully drafted to give accurate results. They serve as

valuable guide in laying, cutting and assembling the different parts during sewing.
They give the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like. It also serves
as a guide for the dressmaker. Be sure to have an accurate division of the
measurement. Always use the correct tools in drafting them.

Application
Manipulating and Cutting Final Pattern of Skirt

Note: In this activity, you need your block/basic pattern.

Manipulate and cut the final pattern of ladies skirt you made in the previous
activity by adding seam allowances needed.
 Scoring Rubrics For Drafted Final Patterns

Items to be Evaluated Score

A. Process and Product (80%) 20 %
1. Allowances were provided accurately 15 %
2. Lines were clearly drawn 15 %
3. Curves were smoothly shaped 10 %
4. Pattern symbols were correctly indicated in each pattern 10 %
5. Pattern edges were smoothly cut and shaped 10 %
6. Unnecessary marks were neatly erased

B. Work Habits (20%)

1. Manipulated drafting tools properly 5%
2. Observed economy in the use of materials 5%
3. Maintained clean working area 5%
4. Worked on the target time 5%
Total 100 %

Multiple Choice. Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the letter that
best describes the statement. Write your answer in your answer sheet.
1. How would you make sure that lines are perpendicular when drafting pattern?
a. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
b. Always use the tape measure in measuring lines.
c. Use French curve if necessary.
d. Draw vertical lines first before horizontal lines.
2. Why should you use hip curve in drawing or shaping the hip part?
a. To save pattern paper c. to produce a perfect curve
b. To make clean edges d. to create bigger hips
3. Which of the following will simplify your drafting activities?
a. Locating the 2 major lines c. locating the 3 major lines
b. Drafting the back pattern first d. drafting the fundamental lines
4. How would you locate the waist darts of skirt?
a. Fold the tape measure into 4 c. Get the midpoint of the waistline
b. Fold the waistline into 4 d. Locate anywhere you want

5. How would you start drafting the back skirt pattern?

 a. On the basic back skirt pattern, from 1 to 6B, use one-fourth waist
measurement plus 4 cm. Connect 3 to 6B with a broken line.
b. From 4 to 7B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6B to
7B by using a hip curve.
c. From 5B to 8B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7B to
8B.
d. From 3 to 9B, use one-half bust point width minus 1.5 cm.
6. In manipulating the block pattern, you need to add seam allowance to each
piece. Which seam allowances are exactly correct for the front and back?
a. waistline ½”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ¾”
b. waistline ¼”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ½”
c. waistline 1 ¼”, sides 1 ¾”, hemline 2 ½”
d. waistline 1 ¼”, sides ¾”, hemline 1 ½”
7. How many inches should be the allowance for the sides of pocket?
a. 2 inches b. 1 ½” c. 1 inch d. ¾ inch
8. What is the proper measurement of seam allowance for the waistband?
a. 1 inch b. ¾ inch c. ½ inch d. ¼ inch
9. If you will label the final pattern, which of the following is the correct label for
the seam lines?
a. heavy solid line with arrows at each end c. broken line forming a “V” shape
b. long broken line, usually 5/8” d. heavy solid line along outer edge
10. If single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to shape, what would you do
then?
a. just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue
b. slowly use the tip of the scissors without lifting the pattern
c. be sure to make its identical pieces
d. cut anyway you want

Use the taken body measurements of a family member to draft basic and
manipulate final pattern. Try to take pictures or video of your activity. Send the
documentation through messenger.

Criteria:

Process- 40%
Materials used-30%
Quality- 30%
What I Know Independent Assessment 1 Assessment

1. A 1. D 1. A 7. D
2. C 2. D 2. C 8. D
3. D 3. A 3. D 9. B
4. C 4. B 4. C 10. A
5. A 5. A 5. A
What’s In 6. D

1. Waistline
2. Lower Hipline
3. Skirt length
4. Hip depth

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Department of Education.
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Suratos, Cesar P., Technology and Livelihood Education III. St. Bernadette Publishing
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Tabbada, Epifania, Reyes, Elisa. Dressmaking II. Phoenix Publishing House, Inc.
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