Chapter 9 Finishing Works
Chapter 9 Finishing Works
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9.1 Cladding (types and fixing process)
• It is an external finishing system meant to protect the
underlying structure & provide aesthetically appealing finish.
• Cladding is not a structural member, but transmits wind,
snow, impact loads and its self weight to the structure.
• This may be plaster, wooden members, tiles, stones, bricks,
PVC sheets, CGI sheets etc.
• Fundamentally, cladding is used as a means for external
finishing.
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Functions of Cladding
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The nature of cladding selected for a particular
building will depend on considerations such as:
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Cladding Installation System :
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Types of Cladding:
I. Interior Cladding II. Exterior Cladding
a. Timber Cladding a. Stone Cladding
b. PVC Cladding b. Brick Cladding
c. Stone Cladding c. Concrete Panel Cladding
d. Ceramic Cladding d. Metal Cladding
e. Back painted glass Cladding e. Terracotta Cladding
f. Wallpaper Cladding f. Stick Frame Cladding
g. Fibre cement Cladding
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I. Interior Cladding
1. Timber Cladding
• Elegant looks.
• Feeling of warm.
• Can be painted into any color.
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2. PVC Cladding
• Long lasting.
• Low maintenance work.
• Moisture resistant.
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3. Stone Cladding
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4. Ceramic Cladding
5. Back Painted
Glass Cladding
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6.
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2. Exterior Cladding
a. Stone cladding
b. Brick cladding
c. Concrete panel cladding
d. Metal cladding
e. Terracotta cladding
f. Stick frame cladding
g. Fibre cement cladding
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1. Stone facing (Cladding of stone)
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Cladding of stone (Stone facing)
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3. Concrete Panel Cladding
• These are common in large construction mass housing,
industries, and high-rise buildings, retaining structures.
• They are usually pre-fabricated concrete panels with
textured face fixed over the original surface to provide
the desired face.
• These are made from pre-cast concrete with textured
face.
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4. Metal Cladding
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5. Terracotta Cladding
• Terracotta cladding is a 100% natural material composed of
clay, made using fire and water.
• It is a recyclable, sustainable and Eco–friendly material.
• It has low water absorption properties and is weather
resistant.
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6. Stick Frame Cladding
• No. of small grids are made and panels (solid or glazed) are
inserted into those small grids.
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7. Fibre cement Cladding
Types of Partition:
I. According to nature of loading transfer
II. According to use of materials
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According to the nature of load transfer:
1. Load bearing partitions
• Designed and constructed to receive superimposed loads and
transferring the loads to the foundation.
• This is generally constructed with bricks, hollow/solid blocks.
• This partition is considered to be permanently positioned.
2. Non-load bearing partitions
• This partition has only it own weight to hold in position.
• It also carries fixtures and fittings necessary in the room.
• It resists impact loading on its face and also vibration
caused from any reason.
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According to use of materials:
Brick partitions
Plain brick
Reinforced brick (after 3/4 layers)
Glass partitions
Concrete partitions
Plain
Reinforced
Metal lath & plastered partitions
AC sheets or CGI sheets partitions
Timber partitions
Hollow blocks partitions Strawboard
Aluminum partitions PVC board
Gypsum board partitions
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Brick partitions: The half brick partitions are very common.
Plain brick:
The plain brick partitions of half brick thickness cannot
take heavy load.
Their height is restricted to 2m.
Reinforced brick (after 3 or 4 layers):
Reinforced brick are more durable and possess more
strength.
Reinforcement is put up at every third course.
Reinforcement may be in form of wire mesh or hoop-iron
or steel bars.
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Brick partition
Plain brick partition
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Glass partitions
May be in form of glass sheets or glass blocks.
Glass blocks of opaque or some colored glass and are of different
shapes and sizes.
Glass partitions are cheap, light, easy in construction, attractive,
sound & heat insulating and provide reasonable privacy.
But cost of maintenance is much more as glass is liable to breakage.
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Metal lath & plastered partitions:
These are constructed by placing 2 cm or 2.5 cm channels
vertically (called studs) and fixing metal lath to it on one
side.
Channels are spaced 15 to 30 cm apart.
Metal lath is fixed to channels by galvanized iron wire.
Plaster is then applied to both the sides.
Thickness of such partition may vary between 5 to 7.5 cm.
Metal lath & plastered partitions are thin, strong, durable
and fire resistant.
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AC sheets or CGI sheets partitions
• Asbestos cement sheets are made of asbestos material and cement
and fixed into timber framework.
• Light in weight, impervious, durable, water tight and fire-proof.
• Sheets are placed in position and joined by cement mortar.
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Timber partitions:
• The framework consists of rigid arrangement of timber
members which may be plastered or covered with boarding
etc.
• Such partitions are not fire resistant and timber is likely to
decay or eaten by white ants.
• Light and easy to construct.
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Hollow blocks and Clay Blocks partitions
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Aluminum partitions
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Suspended ceilings
• A suspended (false) ceiling is the construction below the
roof slab.
• It is the false structure (not load bearing) in overhead of the
room below the roof or slab
• It has a framework suspended (supported) from the main
structure, usually in the roof slab and covering material is
then fixed on the frame.
• It forms void between the ceiling and the roof/slab.
• This void is used for housing electricity trunk-lines, AC
ducts, pipes etc.
• It is frequently made of wooden frames and planks are fixed
on it.
• Metals and other materials may also be used for the ceiling.
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• The ceilings are also covered by rails, and panels in different
patterns.
• Depending on the purpose, plasterboards, straw-boards, Paris-
boards etc, are also secured to ceilings.
Uses:
• For pleasing appearance.
• Space for housing utilities, pipes, electrical wires, telephone
wires, channel wires etc.
• Sound and heat insulation.
Requirements of suspended ceilings:
Easy in construction.
Easy to clean, repair and maintain.
Confirm the building standards and norms of the country.
Provide adequate means of access (enough space) for
maintenance of concealed services therein.
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Types of Ceilings
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Jointless ceiling
• It is monolithic in appearance and no joints can be
seen on the surface.
• This can be done by applying plaster on the ceiling
board/expanded metal lathing or spraying of
asbestos/ vermiculite cement/ any other chemicals.
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Jointed ceilings
• Are very commonly used in practice.
• The joints on the ceiling may be made in decorative
appearance.
• The frame is made according to the desired shape and
sized ceiling boards.
• Ceiling materials may be fixed with spring clips or
nails/ screws.
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Open ceiling
• The frame is fixed in such a way that voids are
formed to give virtual effect.
• Voids are largely provided for decorative purpose.
• This may be a means for acoustic absorption as
well.
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Procedure for ceiling fixing
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Plastering:
• Plastering is the process of covering rough surface of walls,
column, ceiling and other components of building with a thin coat
of mortar to get smooth durable surface. Plastering hide defective
workmanship.
• Plaster is the finishing work that gives even, smooth, regular and
clean surface on wall, ceiling, floor, roof and other parts of the
building.
• Often plastering is required to provide a satisfactory base for
decorating the surface by white-washing, color washing, painting,
etc.
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Objective of plastering:
To protect the external surface against penetration of rain
water.
To protect surface against atmospheric agents.
To conceal inferior materials and defective workmanship.
To develop decorative effect and improve appearance.
Requirements of good plaster:
It should attached to the background and remain during all
variation in seasons.
It should be hard and durable.
It should possess good workability.
It should be possible to apply in all weather conditions.
It should be cheap.
It should check moisture penetration.
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Types of plasters
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Procedure of plastering
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Method of plastering
1. Preparation of surface background
2. Application of rendering coat
3. Application of final coat
Preparation of surface background
• Before plastering, the mortar joints should be raked to a depth of 10-15mm so
that the plaster can easily catch to the wall.
• All dust should be removed from wall by using stiff wire brush.
• Any uneven should be removed for easy plastering.
• The wall should be uniformly wet before plastering.
• After that dots are placed of the interval of 2m×2m with the equal level or
thickness of about generally 12mm.
• This type of dots are provided on the wall where plastering operation being
operating.
• After that the whole wall is cover by plaster by the help of gauging
tool(trowel), float and floating rule.
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Defects in plaster work:
1. Cracking
2. Efflorescence
3. Blistering
4. Falling out of plastering
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Pointing
• It is the process of treatment of joints in the masonry works.
• The joints are the weakest points for giving access to rainwater
or damp in exposed brick and stone masonry & joints are to be
treated properly.
• Pointing is the process of raking and applying rich mortar with
desired finishing in the joints of masonry.
• It is preferable when the joint has not completed final setting
time (in plastic state). It is easy to rake and apply mortar in this
condition.
• The mortar used in pointing should be richer than masonry
mortar.
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Purpose of pointing
1. Protecting joints from adverse effect of atmosphere.
2. Give better appearance.
3. Economy to plaster.
4. Preventing entry of water in to wall through joints.
Pointing procedure
1. Joints are raked to 10 mm depth.
2. Raked joints are cleaned by using brushes.
3. Joints are kept wet for few hours.
4. Mortar is applied on the joints by means of small trowel.
5. Applied mortar is given the shape of desired type of pointing.
6. Curing is done for 3-10 days.
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Types of pointing
1. Beaded pointing - Steel rod of
suitable size giving groove is
applied on joint, good
appearance.
2. Flush pointing - Raked joint is
filled with mortar and leveled.
3. Struck/cut pointing - Mortar is
pressed in joint such that upper
side is more pressed.
4. Tuck-pointing - Mortar is
flushed to joints, mortar is cut to
form raised ruler outside.
5. V-grooved pointing - Steel rod
is used to form V-groove.
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6. Keyed/rubbed/grooved pointing -
Steel rod of 6mm dia. Used to form
circular groove.
7. Recessed pointing - Mortar is pressed
inside of joint by 6 mm by suitable
tool.
8. Weathered (V) pointing - V-shaped
projection of mortar in joints.
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9.4 Paints and Painting works
Definition of paint and its constituents
Types of paints
Painting work in wood (old wood and new wood)
Painting work in metal
Painting work in masonry surfaces
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9.4 Paints and Painting works
Paints
• It is the liquid material applied on timber, metal or masonry surfaces.
• It acts as protective or decorative on applied surface.
• It is composed of two main components; pigment and organic
binders.
Constituents of oil paint
• Base - metallic oxide in the form of powder, chief ingredient of paint,
keep surface opaque
• Extender or inert filler - cheap pigment for volume
• Pigment for color - mixed to give desired color
• Vehicle - liquid that acts as binder, makes paint fluid & spread
ingredient uniformly
• Thinner or solvent - liquid that makes the paint thin & evaporates
after applying paint
• Drier - material containing metallic compound, accelerates the drying
of paint
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Characteristics of good paint
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Types of paints
Aluminum paints Used for woodwork and metal surface.
Anticorrosive paints Metal protective paint.
Asbestos paints For patch works in metal roof, it controls
leakage.
Bituminous paints For water proofing on roof and DPC.
Bronze paints For metallic surface.
Cellulose paints Made from celluloid sheets & amyl-acetate
substitutes, superior type of paints.
Casein paints Protein substance milk, curd etc.
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Types of paints
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Types of varnish
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Painting on wood work
Painting process on new wood work
Painting process on old wood work
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1. Preparation of surface
• Wood work be properly seasoned.
• The surface be clean, dry and free from dust.
• The surface is made smooth by rubbing with
sand /glass paper.
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2. Knotting
This is the process of sealing the knots (resin flows from it &
destroys paint).
• Patent knotting
Applying of one or more coats of Shellac or aluminum
varnish on the knots
• Size knotting
Applying of first coat of mixture of red lead in water with
glue and is hot on knots, Applying of second coat of
mixture of red lead in oil thinned with boiled oil &
turpentine on dried first coat
• Lime knotting
The knot is covered by hot lime for 14 hours, the lime is
than scrapped off & knot be treated by size knotting
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3. Priming
• The surface is painted by first coat of primer before fixing
wood work and fills all pores on it.
4. Stopping
• Nail holes, cracks and open joints are filled up with putty.
• It is than rubbed by sand paper to make smooth surface.
• The putty used is the chalk powder mixed to linseed oil.
5. Second and succeeding coats (under coats)
• First coat of paint with desired color is applied on priming
coat.
• If necessary, second coat of paint is than applied after the
first coat is dried.
6. Finishing coat
• The last coat of desired colored paint is applied to give
smooth & good surface.
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Painting on old wood work
1. Preparation of surface
Old painting if blistered & flaked should be completely removed.
Removing of old paint by blow lamp
The paint is softened by heat (from blow of lamp).
Thus softened paint is removed by stripping knife.
Removing of old paint by paint removers
Paint removers are available in the market and are applied on
the painted surface.
The old paint lifts up, wrinkles and can be easily removed by
sharp knife etc.
Caustic soda solution is also useful for removing old paint.
The solution of caustic soda and water is applied on the
surface and it is made wet for 48 hours.
Old paint is softens and can be easily scraped off.
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2. Coating of paint
• First coat of desired paint is applied on the clean and
smooth surface of woodwork. If necessary, second coat is
also applied.
3. Finishing coat
• Final coating is applied to give smooth, uniform and
pleasing surface.
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Painting on Metal works
This is the process of prevention of rust in metal
works.
Procedure of painting on metal surfaces
• The scale and rust if any are removed by scrapping or
brushing.
• Oil, grease and dust are removed by washing with petrol,
benzene or limewater.
• The surface thus clean and dry is treated with phosphoric
acid. This protects the surface from rusting and provides
adhesive surface.
• Now, the prime coating is done underneath which further 2-3
coats are laid.
• After the under-coat is dried, final coat of desired type of
paint is applied giving uniform an pleasant surface.
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Painting works on masonry
Step 1 - Clean the Surface
• Loose paint has to be removed, make sure that the surface is
clean.
• Any oil or grease on the masonry surface will bleed through
the paint, causing discoloration, and possibly interfering with
the longevity of the paint job. Use tri-sodium phosphate, also
simply known as TSP, to clean the concrete surface before
applying any product. Mix it up in a bucket and scrub it into
to the surface with a scrub brush to remove any grease or oil,
ensuring that your paint will stick well.
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Step 2 - Make any Repairs
• If there is any major defects in the surface to repair, use a
simple, ready-mix concrete patch to make those repairs after
you clean it.
Step 3 - Seal and Prime
• The sealer is often clear, but keeps moisture from coming
through the concrete. This is especially true in basements,
which tend to hold moisture anyway.
• If you are not sure whether your basement has been sealed
or not, tape all four sides of a square of plastic kitchen wrap
onto the floor and leave it for 24 hours. If the floor hasn't
been sealed, you will see condensed water between the
plastic wrap and the floor that has evaporated up through the
concrete.
• Use the two step process of sealing and priming to build a
strong, water resistant foundation for your paint. 78
Step 4 - Paint the Surface
• After your sealer and primer coats are completely
dry, now apply the paint.
• Apply several thin coats, rather than trying to apply
one very thick coat, as paint actually forms a harder
surface when thin coats are laid on top of each
other. One thick coat often results is a gummy or
soft surface.
• This drying thoroughly is often called “curing.” It
means that the paint has dried through all the layers
down to the original surface.
• After your final coat of paint is applied, allow the
paint to cure for the recommended time.
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Painting on plastered surface
Preparation of surface.
Priming coat
First coat
Final coat
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1) Preparation of surface
Allow freshly plastered surface to mature.
Repair and correct any water seepage problems. Avoid
rusting and leakage from the water pipe.
Any holes and cracks are repaired by plaster of paris or by
wall putty.
In old surfaces previous coatings of lime wash/powder
distemper/cement paint must be thoroughly scraped off.
Fungus affected area must be given separate treatment i.e.
5-10% solution of bleach powder and water should be
applied and left to dry for 8-10 hours.
2) Priming coat of mixture of equal parts of white and red lead
in boiled linseed oil is applied on the surface. Drying
time10-12 hours.
3) First coat of desired paint is applied on the surface.
4) Final coat of the desired paint is applied on the dried first
coating. 81