Garment Manufacturing Technology

Er. Ajit Kumar Sahoo

(Dual-B.Tech in Textile Engg. With Fashion & Apparel Tech.,

M.Tech in Textile Chemical Processing)

Asst. Professor, (Textiles)
Pattern Making
 What is Pattern making
• Pattern making is the process of creating a
blueprint of your garment.
• A pattern is used as a template to cut out
fabric that matches the required specifications
to sew a garment.
• It factors in the type of fabric, the intended fit
on the wearer, and any trims that will be used.
 Types of Pattern
1. Individual pattern:
its known as standardised paper pattern for
individuals.
✓ This method is followed in training and
tailoring schools.
✓The measurement of a particular person is taken
and a pattern is prepared using these individual
measurements.
✓The pattern prepared for a particular person will
not suit another person.
✓Paper patterns prepared using standardised
body measurements are called standardised
paper patterns
✓These are usually done at home and some tailor
shops.
2. Commercial paper pattern:
The paper patterns for different designs are available in readymade forms. These patterns are
called commercial patterns.
These patterns are enclosed in an envelope along with an instruction sheet. The instruction
sheet will provide information about selection of fabric, preparation of fabric, marking, cutting,
and steps for sewing.
The front side of the envelope contains the front view, side view and back view of the garment
design along with the body measurements.
 Pattern Making Tools

The tools required for pattern making are given below,

based on the order oftheir usage (Figure 2.4).
1. Measuring devices
2. Drafting devices
3. Marking devices
4. Cutting devices
5. Sewing devices
6. Finishing or pressing devices
7. Miscellaneous or general tools
FIGURE 2.4 Pattern making tools.
Measuring Devices;-
1. Measuring tape:-
✓ It is indispensable for taking body measurements.
✓ It is 152 cm or 60″ long with measurements on both sides.
✓ Its one end is made of metal having 3″ length and the other is made of the same metal having 1/2″ length.
✓ The side with the 1/2″ length is used for measuring a circular area, while the side with 3″ length is used for
a vertical area.

2. Ruler:
✓ It is the best device for taking long straight measurements. It is mostly used for checking grain lines and
marking hems.
 Drafting equipment is used for making paper patterns.

1. L-scale: It is called a triscale or L-scale and is made of wood or steel.

The L-scale has one arm, which measures 12″ and the other arm is
24″. It is used for drafting on brown paper to draw perpendicular
lines.
2. Leg shaper: It is made of wood or plastic. Either 24″ or 36″ lengths are
available. It is used to measure and shape the interior part of the leg.
3. Tailor’s art curve: It is made of plastic or wood. This is used to draw
curves in the drafting.
4. French curve: This is made of transparent plastic. It helps in marking
shapes of the neck, depth of sides and bottom of the garments.
5. Compass: It is mainly used for making a curve for umbrella cloth.
6. Drafting table: It is a wooden table of 3′ height, 4′ wide and 6′ long.
The surface should be smooth and firm.
7. Milton cloth: It is a thick, blue coloured woolen cloth used for drafting. It is
mostly used for practising drafts by students. The surface can be brushed and
reused until correct drafting is obtained.
8. Brush: A brush is used on Milton cloth to rub the mistakes while drafting.
9. Brown paper: It is used for drafting by placing on the drafting table. While
using brown paper, a grain line should be followed.

10. Pencil: Pencil is used for marking on brown paper.

11. Rubber: It is frequently used for deleting mistakes. Good quality rubber,
which does not leave black lines, should be selected.
12. Red and blue pencils: These are used for marking on fold (red line) and
grain line (blue arrow).
 Marking Devices
1. Tailor’s chalk: It is made of china clay and is available in different
colours. It is used for marking the paper patterns on the cloth.
Alterations and construction markings are drawn using tailors’ chalk.
2. Chalk in pencil form: This is used like a pencil and is ideal for
marking thin accurate lines. This is used for marking pleats, darts
and buttonholes.
3. Tracing wheel: It is used for transferring the pattern markings on
fabrics. But for sheer fabrics and loosely woven fabrics, the tracing
wheel should be used with care; otherwise, the fabric may get
damaged.
4. Dressmaker’s carbon paper: Carbon papers are mostly used for
transferring patterns. In embroidery, they are used for tracing
Principles of Pattern 1. Body Measurements
• Accurate measurements ensure a well-
Drafting fitting garment.
• - Measurements include:-Bust - Waist - Hip
Pattern drafting is the process of creating a - Length - Sleeve length - Shoulder
blueprint or template for garments. Here are slope-
the fundamental principles: • Tools: Measuring tape, measurement
1. Body Measurements: Accurate 1. charts.
Brown sheet paper :- Pattern drafting can be carried out on an ordinary
brown sheet paper which is not too thin.
measurements ensure a well-fitting A. Patterns must be created larger than actual body measurements-
Normally used ease allowance for various parts of the body are as
garment. follows.
a) Bust – 3–5″ (3″ for a tight fitting garment and 5″ for loose fitting
2. Grain Lines: Parallel lines indicating b) one).
c) Waist – 1/2″.
fabric orientation. d) Hips – 3–5″.
e) Upper arm – 3–4″.
3. Selvage: Fabric edges that prevent f) Arm hole depth – 1″.
fraying. The ease allowance must be incorporated in the pattern drafting before cutting
out the pattern.
4. Pattern Pieces: Individual components
(e.g., front, back, sleeve).
5. Seam Allowance: Space between pattern
pieces for sewing.
 General Principles
1. Clarity: Clear and concise language
2. Accuracy: Free from errors and ambiguities
3. Completeness: Includes all necessary
information
4. Conciseness: Avoid unnecessary words and
phrases
5. Organization: Logical and systematic structure
 Technical Drawing
Principles
1) Scale: Accurate representation of proportions
2) Proportion: Correct relationships between
components
3) Line quality: Clear and distinct lines
4) Dimensioning: Clear and accurate dimensions
5) Symbolism: Standardized symbols and notation
2. Grain Lines-
Parallel lines indicating fabric orientation.
• Important for:
- Fabric stability
- Preventing distortion
- Ensuring proper texture alignment-
• Types:
- Lengthwise grain (parallel to selvage)
- Crosswise grain (perpendicular to selvage)
3. Selvage-
Fabric edges that prevent fraying.
• Characteristics:
- Self-finished edges
- Narrow, tightly woven
- Prevents unraveling
• Importance:
- Maintains fabric stability -
- Prevents distortion
4. Pattern Pieces-
• Individual components :-
(e.g., front, back, sleeve).
• Types: -
- Basic pattern pieces (e.g., bodice, skirt)
- Derived pattern pieces (e.g., collar, cuff)-
• Functions: -
- Guides for cutting fabric
- Ensures accurate garment construction
5. Seam Allowance
• Space between pattern pieces for sewing.
• Standard seam allowances:
- 1/4 inch (6 mm) for delicate fabrics
- 1/2 inch (13 mm) for medium-weight fabrics
- 3/4 inch (19 mm) for heavy fabrics
• Importance:
- Allows for smooth sewing
- Prevents fabric overlap
• Additional considerations:
- Notch alignment
- Pattern markings (e.g., drill holes, fold lines)-
- Fabric grain orientation
- - Garment ease (fitting comfort)

Notches are small marks or cuts on pattern pieces, indicating:

1. Matching points between pattern pieces
2. Seam alignment
3. Grain line orientation
4. Fold lines
5. Placement of openings (e.g., buttonholes)
 Drafting Techniques:
1. Flat Pattern Drafting:
2D drafting using measurements.
2. Draped Pattern Drafting:
3D draping on a mannequin.
3. Sloper-Based Drafting:
Using a basic sloper (pattern block).
 commercial pattern
• A commercial pattern is a full-scale
paper pattern for making clothing or
accessories that is sold to consumers
for home sewing. They are available
in a variety of sizes and often include
multiple garment options.
• Commercial patterns are typically
sold in an envelope with an
instruction sheet. They are designed
to be disposable, and are often
printed on tissue paper
Here are some tips for using a commercial pattern:
1. When cutting out fabric, position the pattern on your right hand if
you are right-handed, or on your left hand if you are left-handed.
2. Keep the fabric under some tension, but don't pull it away from
the pattern.
3. Keep the pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you need them.
4. Stay in contact with the fabric as you open the scissors to avoid
jagged edges.
Commercial patterns have been available since the 1850s, and were
originally included in fashion magazines. Companies like Butterick
and Simplicity specialize in selling commercial patterns.
❖ What are Commercial Patterns
✓ A paper pattern provides all the information you will need for efficient
and accurate construction of a garment.
❖ Advantages of using Commercial Patterns
• Patterns are already cut to size.
• The amount of fabric need is stated on the pattern. This avoids
wastage.
• Notions are written in exact size and number.
• Step by step instructions are available and no guessing is required.
• The pattern can be used again.
• It may be cheaper than to buy or pay someone for a new garment.
❖ Disadvantages
• Creativity is inhibited.
• The pattern may need adjustment as the size may be a little
off in some measurement areas.
• It may be time consuming to mark, cut and sew, when
compared with hand sewing.
• One must be very careful not to loose small pattern pieces.
• You may not like every design detail of the pattern and may
not be able to adjust the design to suit you.
Commercial Patterns
❖ Summary
• A commercial pattern gives ideas of styles, fashion,
possible fabrics to choose from sewing notion and
accessories.
• It also provides several step by step instructions for
constructing a garment.
• While this may be good it also inhibits the creativity as
you are to stick to the pattern chosen and the
instructions provided.
 Pattern draping
✓The process of positioning and pinning the
fabric on a dress form is called draping.

✓Draping can be used to create the basic

pattern or to design organically by playing
with the fabric on the form.

✓Pattern draping is a technique used by

fashion designers to create a three-
dimensional prototype of a garment by
pinning, pleating, and sewing fabric onto a
dress form or mannequin
 Draping can be used to:
• Design: Create a basic pattern or design
organically by playing with the fabric
• Understand drafting: Learn how to make a
pattern based on body measurements
• Prototype: Test a design to see how it works in
practice, including how breathable it is and
how it moves