I TR AV E L M AGA ZI N E O F TH E Y E A R

U K E D I T I O N • JA N/ F E B 2 0 2 5 • £ 5 .9 5 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C O M / T R AV E L

A LT E R N AT I V E

SACRED HIKING TRAILS • LOCAL STREET FOOD • GEISHA LIFE

SCENIC TRAIN JOURNEYS • NEW VIEWS OF MOUNT FUJI • & MORE

+ INDIA
MADEIRA
MILAN
SOUTH AFRICA LO F OT E N
ON THE TRAIL O F TH E K AYA K A MO N G N O RWAY ’ S
ELUS IVE PANG O L IN M AG I C A L I S LAN DS

A L S O : A RU B A • B AT H • F I N N I S H L A P L A N D • G R A N A DA • I N D O N E S I A • R I O D E JA N EI RO • W I LT S H I R E • 2 0 2 5 T R E N D S
Discover Now
Inntravel walking
holidays: just
add boots
With Inntravel, it’s more than just a walking holiday. Faial, Madeira
We’ve walked the walks, visited the hotels, spoken
to the locals and marvelled at the views. Now we
want you to see the things we’ve seen.
All you need to do is bring the boots.

To plan your walking holiday,

speak to our team.
Call: 01653 617006
Visit: inntravel.co.uk
 CONTENTS
I S S U E 1 29, JA N/FE B 2 02 5

68 1 02 122 14 6
JA PA N LO FOTE N INDIA BATH
Uncover the nation’s hidden Explore the Norwegian How to discover the Golden Celebrate Jane Austen’s 250th
corners on sacred pilgrimage archipelago on a multi-day Triangle, from pink-hued cities birthday with a taste of the
trails and scenic train routes kayaking expedition to lowlands roamed by tigers Somerset city’s Regency heritage

88 114 136
S O U TH A FR I C A MADEIRA G R A N A DA
Step into the wonderful world of Immerse yourself in the island’s The spirit of flamenco infuses
pangolins in a game reserve in natural swimming pools and its every aspect of this creative
KwaZulu-Natal province centuries-old crafts Andalucian city
IMAGE: JONATHAN STOKES

8 8 SOUTH AFRIC A
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 5
CONTENTS
Smart traveller
15 | SNAPSHOT Meet a carpet- 32 | FAMILY New tours to inspire
maker in Egypt’s Nubian region curiosity and adventure
16 | BIG PICTURE A company of 35 | BOOKS Our pick of the best
wolves in Canada’s far north travel titles for the year ahead
19 | ON THE RADAR Fresh ways to 36 | KIT LIST Stay toasty on your
get outdoors in 2025 next winter adventure
21 | WARSAW The Polish capital 38 | UK BREAK Pagan sites and
welcomes a new modern art gallery fireside pints in rural Wiltshire
22 | MOROCCO Surf the nation’s 41 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR
wave of new hotel openings Katie Hale’s Antarctic revelation
25 | FOOD The flavours of Nigeria 42 | COMPETITION Win a self-drive
with Jess and Jo Edun river cruise in France
27 | EXPERIENCE Jungle immersion 45 | MEET THE TRAILBLAZER
on the Indonesian island of Sumba Dianne Whelan hikes across Canada

54
30 | INSIDE GUIDE Follow the beat 46 | ONLINE Highlights from
to the Rio beach suburb of Ipanema nationalgeographic.com/travel

27

48 22
IMAGES: GETTY; CALL ME PETIT; JOE KELLY; CYRILLE ROBIN

On the cover Insider Travel talk Get involved

48 | WEEKENDER: LEVI 156 | ASK THE EXPERTS 12 | PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
Galloping huskies, ice hotels and Off-grid cabins for bird-lovers, The 2025 travel photography prize
aurora-hunting amid the wintery culinary breaks by rail and more is now open for submissions
landscapes of Finnish Lapland 159 | HOT TOPIC 171 | SUBSCRIPTIONS
54 | EAT: ARUBA International How will rising travel costs impact Don’t miss our new year offer
flavours abound in the cuisine of your next getaway? 174 | EVENTS The Masterclasses
this cactus-strewn Caribbean island 160 | THE INFO Celebrating 200 return, both in person and online
60 | SLEEP: MILAN years of British railways 177 | INBOX Write in for the chance
An aerial view of Mount Fuji Styling it out in the capital of 162 | THE REPORT to win a pair of Mongolian slippers
— Japan’s highest peak Lombardy, a haven for night owls Get the lowdown on the biggest 178 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT
Image: Reuters/Toru Hanai and art-lovers alike travel trends for 2025 and beyond Adrienne Pitts on the Cook Islands

6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Southern Wind specialises in the construction, sale and
charter of luxury sailing yachts, offering an unmatched
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 CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial Director & Digital Marketing Manager:
Chief Operating Officer: Maria Pieri Tilly Tasker
Editor: Pat Riddell Marketing Executive:
Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Katelyn Fouladgar
Simon Ingram Executive Editor: Lorna Parkes
Features Editor: Georgia Stephens
Digital Marketing Assistant:
Mélissa Otshudy
Lapland in winter is a cold, dark region, but Assistant Editors: Sam Kemp, Head of Events: Sabera Sattar
Angela Locatelli Events Manager: Angela Calvieri
the Finns know how to enjoy it. Saunas; fairy Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Operations Manager:
Associate Editors: Orla Thomas, Seamus McDermott
lights; cabins twinkling under snow-laden tree Nicola Trup, Farida Zeynalova Events & Operations Administrator:
boughs — you’ll return feeling more connected Managing Editor: Glen Mutel Safia Reid
Senior Content Strategist: Production Team: Daniel Gregory
to the land, the seasons and yourself. Berkok Yüksel Christopher Hazeldine,
Digital Content Editor: Joe Mendonca, Natasha Ullman
F I N N I S H L A P L A N D P. 4 8 Karlina Valeiko Commercial Director:
Art Director: Becky Redman Matthew Midworth
Deputy Art Director: Head of Sales: Phil Castle
Lauren Atkinson-Smith Head of Campaigns: William Allen
Art Editors: Lauren Gamp, Campaigns Team: George Clarke,
Kelly McKenna Bob Jalaf, Ben KeyStone, Kevin Killen,
Senior Designers: Rosie Klein, Ashley Leat, Mark Salmon,
Dean Reynolds Perry Sophocleous, Oscar Williams
Designer: Tully D’Souza Head of Event Sales: Tasmine Othman
Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Head of National Geographic
Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Traveller — The Collection:
Picture Researcher: Aisha Nazar Danny Pegg
James March Branded Content Manager
(maternity): Flora Neighbour
Aruba’s visual allure is matched only by its Acting Branded Content Manager:
cuisine. Growing produce is a challenge on Megan Hughes
Senior Editor, Branded Content:
this breezy Caribbean island, but the warm Sara Crossley
Senior Project Editor: Beth Finney Chairman & Co-founder:
and gregarious locals in its pastel-splashed Project Editors: Emma Al-Mousawi, Anthony Leyens
capital and its cactus-strewn heartland are Zoe Bell, Emma Monk, Sacha Chief Executive Officer:
Scoging, Charlotte Wigram-Evans Matthew Jackson
happy to get creative. A R U B A P. 5 4 Assistant Project Editor: Chief Revenue Officer: Alex Vignali
Hannah Wild APL Business Development Team:
Chief Sub-Editor: Olivia McLearon Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence
Senior Sub-Editor: Hannah Doherty Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Sub-Editors: Rory Goulding, Chris Finance Director: Ryan McShaw
Horton, Ben Murray, Victoria Smith Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
APL Assistant Editor: Kira Richards Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Youth Intern: Ida Nyame Billings Manager: Ramona McShaw

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,

Charlotte Lytton Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
nationalgeographic.com/travel
Reinvention is forever afoot in Milan, Italy’s Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
style capital — and that extends to the hotel Photography T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. [email protected]
scene. From neo-classical grandeur to sleek Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. [email protected]
rooftop bars with panoramic views of the city,
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from
expect a mishmash of the old, the new and National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info.
Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2024 and all rights are reserved.
the incredibly on-trend. M I L A N P. 6 0 Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling
the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect
arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on
any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National
Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used
or claims made by advertisers.

National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr

Nathan Lump Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
Amanda Canning General Manager, NG Media:
David Miller Headquarters
The pangolin is a rare and secretive creature
International Editions 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
that happens to be the most-trafficked animal 20036-4688, USA
in the world. I went to KwaZulu-Natal in South Editorial Director:
Amy Kolczak National Geographic Partners
Africa in the hope of seeing one, and to find Editor: returns 27% of its proceeds to the
Leigh Mitnick nonprofit National Geographic
out how one reserve is attempting to save it. Society to fund work in the areas of
S O U T H A F R I C A P. 8 8 Editors: science, exploration, conservation
CHINA Sophie Huang and education.
GERMANY Werner Siefer
ITALY Marco Cattaneo National Geographic Traveller
LATIN AMERICA Alicia Guzman (UK) is trusted for its independent
NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue and impartial advice. Our writers
POLAND Agnieszka Franus and photographers often receive
SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim support from the likes of tourist
SPAIN Josan Ruiz boards, tour operators, hotels and
airlines. However, there is never any
guarantee of positive coverage. Any
sponsored or commercial features
Pooja Naik will always be clearly labelled.
It doesn’t matter if it’s your first time visiting
India or your 10th; there’s a reason the Golden Copyright © 2024 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of
Triangle remains a classic. The sights, sounds, National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.
cultures and cuisines offer a window onto
the country’s decadent past and scintillating
present. B I G T R I P P.1 2 2

8 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Visit Sweden – Luxury
of a different nature
Discover a unique winter escape in Sweden, where the Northern Lights
welcome you to a place of adventure and tranquillity. Savour the quiet luxury
of open space and simplicity. Glide through frozen forests on a dogsled visitsweden.com
journey or marvel at starry skies stretching endlessly above. Whatever you
choose to experience in Sweden, prepare for a getaway like no other.

#visitsweden #ofadifferentnature
 Editor’s letter
DON’T MISS

ISSUE 128, JAN/FEB 2025

Cruise guide
Included with this issue, the 2025 cruise
special is filled with ideas for the ultimate
Few destinations have captured the hearts and imaginations of National island escape, from observing spectacular
Geographic Traveller (UK) readers like Japan has in recent years. And you’re not marine life in Indonesia to kicking back
alone — the East Asian archipelago has seen visitor numbers rocket in the post- on Sardinian sands.

pandemic era.
A weak yen, increased flight capacity and a growing interest in the Land of the
Rising Sun have meant record arrivals in 2024, while the Japanese government
has set a rather ambitious target of almost doubling the number of tourists to 60
million by 2030.
While the country adapts to its growing popularity, and some of its most
popular destinations — such as Kyoto and Mount Fuji — find ways of getting
used to more visitors, this issue we focus on attractions beyond the nation’s
more obvious highlights.
Japan’s islands stretch for over 2,000 miles from north to south, and there
are cities, regions and experiences that are just as deserving of your attention as The Masterclasses 2025
Ready to take your travel storytelling to the
the famous destinations you may already be familiar with. From pilgrim trails
next level? Register your interest for our
in Shikoku and the geishas of Nara to the nightlife and street food of Fukuoka latest series of writing and photography
and alternative ways to enjoy the country’s sacred mountain, the experiences on workshops and let our experts teach you the
offer show that this is a nation that begs deeper exploration. tricks of the trade this January. P.1 74

Pat Riddell, editor

S U B S C RI B E TO DAY
N AT G E O T R AV E L U K

AWA R D - W I N N I N G N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R
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— Travel • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2021 • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer of
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BGTW Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine

G O O N LI N E AT N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C OM / T R AV E L FO R N E W TR AV EL FE AT U RE S DA I LY

10 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Nature Delivers the
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 PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2025
The National Geographic Traveller (UK) Photography Competition is once
again open for entries — and we’re after your most spectacular shots from
IMAGE: RENATO GANIERI

the past year. To be in with a chance of having your work published in the
magazine, submit your images in up to six categories, from people and places
to food and wildlife. Judged by industry-leading photographers and editors,
the competition is your opportunity to be noticed and win a great prize

12 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

| TH E C ATEG O RI E S
People
More often than not, it’s the people you encounter that
make a trip — but it can be difficult capturing the character
of someone you’ve only just met. Have you managed it?

City life
Labyrinthine souks, striking architecture, edgy street art
— life in cities takes on many forms. Finding your subject
amid the hubbub is the key to urban photography.

Landscape
Shooting a landscape might seem easy, but few can really
draw out the defining features. Can you identify intriguing
contrasts, or show a level of detail that others can’t see?

Wildlife
Wildlife is one of the great wonders of travel. Spotting
creatures in their natural habitat can be about luck
— capturing them with your camera is not.

Food
Whether it’s a local farmer bringing in the harvest or chefs
hard at work in a street kitchen, this category celebrates
every stage of the culinary journey from field to fork.

Portfolio
The portfolio category demands more than a single
stunning photograph — up to 10 images should combine
to tell a multifaceted yet cohesive story of a destination,
whether it fits into one of the other categories or
encompasses them all.

| TH E PRIZE
A three-night stay in the UK for two
The Grand Prize winner, from the six categories, will receive
a luxury three-night escape to a UK hotel of their choice,
courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH). With
over 600 hotels in 90 destinations, including 36 in the UK,
SLH offers boutique stays with a strong sense of place, from
chic city-centre hotels to rustic fishermen’s huts. The prize
includes the SLH Book, a limited-edition coffee-table book
featuring the brand’s beautifully curated portfolio. slh.com

Enter now

NATGEOT V.COM/UK/COMPETITIONS

The competition closes on 28 February 2025 at

11.59pm. The winner must be a resident of the
UK or Ireland and aged 18 or over. Judges to be
announced. See full T&Cs online.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 13
 Make a clean getaway from your normal vacation.

Surrounded by warm, clear water and blessed with picture-perfect

weather, The Florida Keys offer every adventure under the sun. From
fishing, diving and snorkelling to kayaking, hiking, boating and swimming
with dolphins. You’ll also discover endless ways to recharge and relax,
from upscale waterfront dining to luxury resorts and quaint B&Bs.
Think of it as a little yin and yang, for you and yours.
fla-keys.co.uk 0208 686 2300
 SM ART TR AVELLER
O N T H E R A DA R • W H AT ’ S N E W • F O O D • E X P E R I E N C E • FA M I LY • I N S I D E G U I D E • U K B R E A K • B O O K S • K I T L I S T

SNAPSHOT
Abdo Iskandar, Gharb Sohail, Egypt
I met Abdo after travelling more than 600
miles through the heart of Egypt. Leaving the
northern port city of Alexandria, I made the long
journey south to learn about Nubian culture in
the village of Gharb Sohail, a short boat ride
from Aswan. It was here I spotted him working
his loom. The wooden mechanism is thought
to have first appeared in Egypt during the
Pharaonic period and is used to this day by
artisans weaving traditional carpets. Abdo, for
his part, learnt the craft from his father at the
age of six and has been weaving ever since.
YA S S E R A L A A M O B A R A K • P H OT O G R A P H E R

yasseralaamobarak.com
@yasseralaamobarak

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 15
16 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

BIG PICTURE
Ellesmere Island, Canada
Why did I go to the ends of the world?
Because it’s one of the only places you can
photograph white Arctic wolves in the
wild. There are only about 200 of them on
Canada’s northernmost island, many utterly
naive to the presence of people. In this huge
wilderness, temperatures can drop below
-35C, so our expedition was tough going, but
on day 12 we finally spotted a lone wolf in the
distance. A few moments later he started to
approach us, carefully checking us out before
pausing to howl — the sound gave me goose
bumps. Nine more wolves then arrived to
join their leader. For the next seven hours, we
followed the wolf pack — although at times it
felt as though it was us being followed.
A M I T E S H E L • P H O TO G R A P H E R

amiteshel.com
@siberianart

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 17
 MADRID, SPAIN

The Art of
Luxury Living

Lagasca, Madrid, España 28006

@TheNewMadrid
TheNewMadrid.com
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

ON THE R ADAR

Natural selection
FROM TH E U K’ S FI R S T FLOATI N G SAU NA TO A M AR S - LI K E G L A MPI N G R E TRE AT
I N U TA H , FI N D N E W WAYS TO E XPER I EN C E TH E O U TD O O R S I N 202 5

Algarve, Portugal
Inland from the Algarve’s popular
southern beaches, there are cork
forests, Moorish fortresses and
pretty, little-visited villages. The
Algarve Walking Season website
draws visitors to these areas by
promoting hiking festivals, and
it has now launched an English-
language version. Look out for
a new event in Santa Bárbara de
Nexe from 7-8 February 2025.
algarvewalkingseason.com

LIVERPOOL , UK N O RT H B R A B A N T,
The UK’s first public floating NETHERL ANDS
sauna has opened at Liverpool’s Fans of Van Gogh have a new reason
Princes Dock, bringing the to visit the Netherlands: a national
tranquillity of Scandinavian park in his name. The project covers
wellness culture to the city’s some 247,000 acres in North Brabant
waterfront. Called Wyld, it offers province, where the painter grew up
Finnish-style steam baths, ice and worked on his early canvases,
plunges and heated outdoor offering a chance to experience the
showers with salt scrubs — plus views that first inspired his genius.
water access for a post-sauna Come for themed activities like
dip in the River Mersey. Guided Eindhoven’s Roosegaarde cycle path,
sessions are set to include made of stones that sparkle after dark
Aufguss (a sauna ritual) and — much like Van Gogh’s The Starry
breathwork. wyldsauna.com Night. vangoghnationalpark.com
WORDS: ANGELA LOCATELLI. IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; OUTPOST X

U TA H , U S
Outpost X is a sci-fi-esque
glamping site set in the
desert of southern Utah.
Upon arrival, you’ll be
introduced to its fictional
backstory, a cosmic
community rebuilding
their planet following a
natural disaster. Explore
on vintage-style sand
cruisers, then retreat to
your room. Options include
glass domes for stargazing
— said to be out of this
world. outpost-x.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 19
TIME DOESN’T ALWAYS PASS
AT THE SAME SPEED.
Aboard the Riverside ships, you’ll experience moments you wish would
never end. When you’re completely at home with yourself and simply enjoy
the best that life can offer. Discover the first six-star slow luxury cruises
on Europe’s most beautiful rivers.
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

T H R E E MO R E
Warsaw highlights

O L D TOW N S Q UA R E
The Second World War saw 85% of
Warsaw’s centre turned to rubble.
Once the smoke cleared, inhabitants
set about rebuilding brick by brick,
using 18th-century cityscapes painted
by Bellotto (on display in the National
Museum in Warsaw) to painstakingly
restore the now UNESCO-listed
Old Town. Today, you’ll find its
13th-century square surrounded by
merchant’s houses containing cafes
and restaurants. The best tables
The Museum of Modern
Art in Warsaw cost an look onto the sword-wielding statue
estimated £134m to build of Syrenka Warszawska, a mermaid
Right: A view of Castle frozen mid-battle cry.
Square in Warsaw’s Old Town
C H U RC H O F T H E H O LY C RO S S
The baroque crowns adorning this
Roman Catholic basilica in central
WA R S AW Warsaw frequently stop passers-by in

NE W ROOTS
their tracks, but the best is reserved
for those who step inside. Take in the
fresco-washed walls before seeking
out the second pillar on the left side
of the nave, where a monument
featuring a bust of Chopin marks the
Post-war Polish art is coming home, with a permanent burial place of the 19th-century Polish
gallery space set to draw visitors to the capital this winter composer’s heart. He requested it
be returned to his homeland upon
his death — his sister transported the
Since its foundation in 2005, the Museum the Palace of Culture and Science — a 778ft organ from Paris in a jar of alcohol.
of Modern Art in Warsaw (MSN) has been skyscraper completed in 1955 under the
somewhat nomadic. After 20 years of communist regime (1945-1989). The MSN’s H A L A KO S Z Y K I
operating out of various temporary spaces main exhibition levels, linked by an Escher- A collection of wine bars, delis
throughout the Polish capital, the institution esque staircase, include four galleries devoted and more, ‘Basket Hall’ in south-
has settled into a permanent home in the heart to avant-garde paintings, installations and central Warsaw is a one-stop shop
of the city. Designed by American architect sculptures from artists including Edward for epicureans. The art nouveau
Thomas Phifer, the finished 213,000sq ft Dwurnik and Magdalena Abakanowicz as well market hall’s inner arcade — all red
gallery complex was unveiled in October, as Holocaust survivor Alina Szapocznikow. brick and green steel — plays host to
IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK; ALAMY

with its collection of post-war Polish and There’s an adjoining cinema showing art 1920s-inspired Bar Koszyki, while the
international art scheduled to open to the house films and the main galleries feature western wing houses everything from
public in February 2025. picture windows offering views of Plac Defilad, bakeries to fine dining restaurants
Located in an area of central Warsaw a square levelled by the Nazis before being serving Polish cuisine. Ascend to
obliterated during the Second World War, transformed into a Soviet parade ground in the the mezzanine level at midnight for
the MSN building is a gleaming modernist 1950s. Like so much of Warsaw, the view serves classical music concerts hosted by the
slab made conspicuous by its surroundings. as a reminder that the past can never be paved Julian Cochran Foundation.
It stands in stark contrast to its neighbour, over, only built upon. artmuseum.pl S A M K E M P koszyki.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 21
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

MOROCCO

Live like kings

N E W A N D R EO PEN I N G H OTEL S W I LL E XPAN D TH E
H O RIZO N S O F TR AVELLERS TO MO RO CCO IN 202 5

If you haven’t heard of Morocco’s Tamuda be visited by non-Muslims; and the art deco
Bay, you’re not alone. The third and latest Corniche sea promenade. royalmansour.com R A I L A M B ITI O N S
opening by Moroccan luxury hotel brand Royal An hour north of Casablanca, the Four It takes just two hours to get
Mansour — owned by King Mohammed VI Seasons has also just opened in Rabat, from Casablanca to Tangier
— is on a sandy stretch of Mediterranean coast Morocco’s capital. It’s based inside an 18th- in the far north thanks to a
that’s virtually off the travel circuit, some 40 century former royal residence called Kasr Al high-speed train called Al IMAGES: CYRILLE ROBIN; FOUR SEASONS RABAT; ROYAL MANSOUR TAMUDA BAY

miles east of the bohemian, kasbah-topped city Bahr, with traditional fountains and Moorish Boraq. Launched in 2018 after
of Tangier in the far north. On the edge of the horseshoe-arched doorways. Sitting across the a decade of planning, it’s been
town of M’Diq, its 55 seafront villas and suites road from the Atlantic, it’s a short hop south transformational in making
are an ideal base for exploring underrated of the city’s hilltop 12th-century kasbah, the the north more accessible. In
corners of the country, such as the nearby Andalusian Gardens and a couple of small October 2024, the government
UNESCO-listed medina of Tétouan — once beaches. fourseasons.com awarded almost £80m in
the capital of Spanish Morocco — as well as Inland, Sir Richard Branson’s award- rail contracts to expand the
Chefchaouen, the Rif Mountains hilltown winning Kasbah Tamadot hotel in the High network; its ambition is to
famed for its cascade of blue houses. Atlas Mountains near Marrakech is set to connect the country from north
Further south, Royal Mansour’s second fully reopen after a year-long restoration to south by high-speed rail
hotel opened in April in Casablanca. It took following the 2023 earthquake. The works by 2030, in time for Morocco’s
over one of the city’s most celebrated heritage have not only rebuilt the main kasbah-style joint-hosting of football’s FIFA
hotels, built in 1953, and the revamp has lodge, but also added a second restaurant World Cup.
leaned into the building’s original era with and increased the number of rooms from 28
mid-century dark-wood furniture and marbled to 42. Options include Berber tents and new
walls. The 144 rooms, suites and apartments three-bedroom riads with private pools and
are close to the city’s petite medina; legendary views across the mountains, where travellers Clockwise from left: The view from Royal
Rick’s Café, of Casablanca film fame; Hassan will find some of Morocco’s best hiking trails. Mansour Casablanca; Rabat’s ancient
II Mosque, one of only two in Morocco that can virginlimitededition.com L O R N A PA R K E S fortifications; a bedroom at Tamuda Bay

22 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

M U S T-T RY D I S H E S

B E E F S U YA
This beloved street food dish, which
originates in northern Nigeria but
has spread nationwide, is made
by sprinkling a dry, peanut-based
spice mixture over grilled meat. It’s
typically made with beef but it can
also include chicken, goat, fish — even
grilled aubergine — with onions,
tomatoes and spicy pepper sauce.

J O L LO F R I C E
Basmati rice is cooked with tomatoes
and chicken or vegetable stock,
and flavoured with thyme, garlic
and curry powder — an essential
ingredient in Nigerian kitchens.
Jollof rice is prepared in big batches
on a gas hob, ensuring it develops
a charred bottom and infuses with
signature smokiness.

EGUSI SOUP
Ground melon seeds are fried in palm
A TA S T E O F oil and simmered in a rich broth to

NIGERIA
create this soup, along with various
meats and leafy greens. It’s usually
paired with small balls of boiled and
pounded yam, and this combination
is described as a ‘swallow’ dish, to be
swallowed rather than chewed.
The country’s many communities come
together over hearty meals with plenty of heat
Left: Egusi soup is most associated with
the cuisine of Nigeria’s Yoruba people

Nigeria, nicknamed the ‘Giant of The magic of Nigerian The ingredient

Africa’, is a vast, diverse nation cooking is in the ‘one-pot’
of 233 million people from more method, where flavours blend
Hot and fiery, red
than 250 different tribes, each beautifully. Jollof rice, a classic scotch bonnets are the
with unique beliefs, languages one-pot recipe, reigns supreme
most common pepper
and culinary traditions. as Nigeria’s national dish. While
The Hausa-Fulani, one of it originally came from what is in Nigerian cuisine.
the largest groups, are known now The Gambia and Senegal, Used fresh or in dried
for suya spice, a smoky, nutty Nigerians put their own spin on
seasoning for grilled meats. The the dish: ‘party jollof’ is made form, they bring a kick
Yoruba are celebrated for their with basmati rice, slow-cooked to jollof rice and stews
spicy ayamase stew, packed with in a wonderfully smoked tomato
scotch bonnet peppers. And the Igbo feature stew, without using meat or mixed vegetables.
cassava and yam heavily in their cooking. Puff puff, meanwhile, is a deep-fried
Our roots are in Benin City, in Edo State, where
IMAGES: CLARE WINFIELD/RYLAND PETERS & SMALL

doughnut made with flour, sugar and yeast

ogbono soup is made with the ground dry — an affordable snack eaten by people of
seeds of ogbono (wild African mango). all backgrounds.
JESS &
Despite the array of culinary approaches, Each bite of Nigerian food tells JO EDUN
Nigerian cuisine is tied together by a love of a story of culture, warmth and are British-Nigerian chefs
hearty cooking and a common philosophy: community — we enjoy sharing. and cookbook authors
abundance. Recipes often feature assorted And it ties in with the mantra of who run The Flygerians
meats like beef and goat, or cow foot, tripe ‘chop life before life chops you’, restaurant in Peckham,
and dried crayfish and catfish. They include which essentially means enjoy London
ingredients that thrive in the warm climate, yourself while you can — an idea that
too, like tomatoes, scotch bonnets, bell defines the Nigerian way of life.
peppers, garlic and onions, which form the The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun
foundation of stews and rice dishes. is published by Ryland Peters & Small (£22).

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 25
 KANAZAWATOURS.COM

KANAZAWA
TOURS
Discover Kanazawa through Arts, Culture and People

Explore cultural heritage with our award-winning guides and drivers

Unesco City of Crafts and Folk Art, Samurai & Geisha culture

Artisan Visits Cultural Exploration Shirakawago

E: [email protected]
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

EXPERIENCE

Wild wellness in Sumba

AN C I ENT TR AD ITIO N S ARE B EIN G IN CO RP O R ATED INTO MO DERN LUXU RY O N
TH I S R E MOTE I N D O N E S IA N I S L AN D, W ITH EQ U I N E YO GA A N D S PA SAFAR I S

The scene
Straddling the Wallace Line separating the biogeographical
realms of Asia and Australasia, lush Sumba is a couple
of island hops east of Bali in the southern reaches of the
3,200-mile-long Indonesian archipelago. As close to
Broome, Australia as it is to Jakarta, it’s a hilly, sparsely
developed island intersected by just two main roads
— yet it’s 15 times the size of Singapore.
Life here feels remote and detached. Thatched-roofed
villages cluster around megalithic tombs and most
locals continue to adhere to traditional Marapu beliefs,
an Indigenous religion rooted in ancestor worship.
Indigenous languages are more widely spoken here than
Indonesian, and animal sacrifices still commonly mark
significant events — especially the annual Pasola Festival,
a mounted spear-throwing competition held in February
or March.
Edged by rugged volcanic cliffs and blonde beaches,
and known for its remote surf breaks and intricately
woven ikat textiles, Sumba remains refreshingly
untouched by mass tourism — at least for now.

Rock stars Sumba is one of the

world’s last societies to still build
megalithic stone tombs and graves.
Often finely carved, these striking
monuments respect ancestor spirits
in line with traditional beliefs

The nature immersion

Leaning into the island’s wild environment, longstanding
luxury resort Nihi Sumba offers a wellness programme that
seeks to showcase the rugged and remote environment.
The resort is famous for its stable of sandalwood ponies,
which have been a part of Sumba life for centuries and
are still used in traditional island ceremonies. Guests
can try equine therapy, experience yoga breathwork on
horseback, or take the ponies for a restorative swim in
the aquamarine shallows of Nihiwatu Beach, an arc of
IMAGES: JOE KELLY; JASON CHILDS

From left: white sand punctuated by unusual rock formations.

Sandalwood
There are plenty of other ways to combine nature
ponies have
and wellness at the resort, too. Water-based meditation
important cultural
and underwater workouts are both offered as part of
significance on
Sumba; standup the fitness programme, while a ‘spa safari’ provides
paddleboarders another opportunity to immerse yourself in the wild.
glide down the Offered as a half- or full-day experience, it starts with a
Wanakaka River journey through the jungle that can be as adventurous

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 27
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

From left: The villas at Nihi Sumba take

inspiration from traditional thatched
Sumbanese houses; Lapopu Waterfall is
one of many cascades across the island

THREE MORE
Ways to connect with
Sumba nature

1 Seek serenity
in the surf
About three miles west of
Occy’s Left, Pantai Beach lures
surfers with its long right-
hander, with more breaks to
be found further north up the
coast. Bring your own board or
rent from Sumba Surf School at
Pantai Beach. Surf conditions
are ideal March to November.
sumba-surfschool.com

2 Go chasing waterfalls
About two hours’ drive
(around 40 miles) north west
of Waingapu, the largest
town in eastern Sumba, plus
a 20-minute hike, is Air Terjun
Tanggedu — arguably Sumba’s
as you like: guests can make the four-mile A packed schedule of activities offers finest waterfall, with terraces
trip by 4WD or on mountain bike, foot or the option to fill your days with traditional feeding into cyan pools you
horseback. The destination is a serene seaside weaving classes, breathwork sessions or simply can paddle in. Closer to Nihi
location, four miles east of Nihi by road, surfing Occy’s Left, the resort’s legendary (roughly a 90-minute drive), is
complete with a sacred spring and infinity house break — where only 12 surfers per day the lovely Lapopu Waterfall,
pool. Once settled into the clifftop spa hut are permitted to paddle — before swinging by a 10-minute walk from the
with a soundtrack of crashing waves, choose the Boathouse Bar for happy-hour drinks and access road. Rent a car or book
treatments such as a Sumbanese head massage canapes as the sun sinks behind the Indian a trip with a local tour operator
using Sumba 7 Detox Oil. Developed for Nihi by Ocean in a blaze of hibiscus hues. There are such as Explore Sumba.
British pharmacognosist Dr Simon Jackson, also two relaxed restaurants with sea views, exploresumba.com
it incorporates seven healing Wallace Line serving unfussy dishes including Indonesian
flora — a spicy-sweet smelling mix of betel nut,
cinnamon, coriander seed, galangal, ginger,
mangosteen skin and turmeric.
classics like slow-cooked beef rendang. Most
ingredients are organically farmed on site
and the hotel has a root-to-leaf ethos: papaya
3 Hike it out
A network of rugged
walking trails lacing Sumba
stems, for example, are cleverly used as weaves along rocky cliffs,
The stay cocktail straws. S A R A H R E I D through forests filled with
IMAGES: SEBASTIAN SUKI; NIHI

The sign welcoming guests to ‘The Edge of endemic plants, and into
Wildness’ seems apt following the cross-island HOW TO DO IT: Sumba’s domestic Tambolaka Airport traditional hilltop villages.
airport transfer to Nihi in a 4WD. The 28 villas is a 90-minute flight from Bali. Here, guests are met To ensure you don’t get
— all with private pools — are inspired by by an African-style safari car for the scenic two-hour lost, it’s best to hire a guide.
traditional Sumbanese houses, characterised drive to the resort. Villas at Nihi start at £1,550 per sumbaislandtours.com
by thatched, peaked roofs and furnished with villa per night, sleeping two to six people, full board,
local textiles. excluding alcohol. nihi.com indonesia.travel

28 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 1 S E L D ’ I PA N E M A
B E AC H C L U B
Along Ipanema’s waterfront,
you’ll find bars every few 2 VINÍCIUS
paces. Sel d’Ipanema serves This restaurant is named
craft cocktails as elegant after Vinícius de Moraes,
as the clientele. Choose who co-wrote the song The
the Amázzoni G&T, a blend Girl from Ipanema (‘Garota
of cacao nectar, lime and de Ipanema’) with Antônio
gin mixed with Amazonian Carlos Jobim in 1962 at the
botanicals. instagram.com/ bar opposite (now Garota
selipanema de Ipanema restaurant).
instagram.com/vinicius.
bossanovabar

INSIDE GUIDE

IPANEM A
In the run-up to Rio’s Carnival, follow the beat to this buzzy beach suburb,
where the Brazilian city’s surf, food and music are all at their best

W O R D S : J U L I A B U C K L E Y. I L L U S T R AT I O N : M A R T I N H A A K E

On any given night in Rio de Janeiro, walk a block inland Rio’s South Zone does beaches very well, and Ipanema’s
from Ipanema Beach, along Rua Vinícius de Moraes, and the sands — part of a two-mile arc that slowly unspools
sound of waves will be replaced by the soft pulse of bossa towards the twin peaks of the Dois Irmãos — are a huge
nova. The genre — downbeat samba with a hint of jazz part of the suburb’s appeal. ‘Ipanema’ means ‘bad water’
— was made famous here in the 1960s, when Ipanema was in the language of the Indigenous Tupi people, who first
Rio’s newest, hottest district, home to bossa king Antônio populated Brazil’s southeast coast. As a place to go fishing,
Carlos Jobim. It can be heard floating across the street from they considered it poor, but, as somewhere to bask in the
the curved terrace of bar and restaurant Vinícius (2), where sunshine, this mile-long stretch of ankle-deep sand was
musicians seem to serenade Ipanema itself. As locals pass perfect. Still, Ipanema — perched between Copacabana
below — on their way back from the beach, off to drink or and Leblon — has something more. It’s a city break in itself,
shop in this most chi-chi of Rio neighbourhoods — they’re with cafes, markets and treasure-trove boutiques all within
as much a part of the performance as the diners themselves. walking distance of sugary sands.

30 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 3 C A S A DA F E I J OA DA
This Ipanema institution
is a great introduction
to Brazilian culture. The
restaurant specialises
in feijoada, the Brazilian
national dish that’s often
eaten on Sundays — a meaty
stew of black beans, cassava,
pork rinds and oranges.
casadafeijoada.com.br

The Ipanema-Leblon shoreline is topped and tailed by two Over at Ipanema’s eastern end, life revolves around Praça
natural promontories connected by a seaside boardwalk. General Osório, a palm-fringed square with restaurants and
At the western end is Mirante do Leblon — a rocky lookout bars. On Sundays, it’s filled with artisans selling handmade
perched above cornflower-blue waters. Here, kiosk bar sandals and jewellery at the Feira Hippie (‘Hippie Market’)
Mirante Sonhador offers freshly tapped coconuts and views — founded in the 1960s when Ipanema attracted a
of the Christ the Redeemer statue. Otherwise, seek out Sel bohemian crowd. Have lunch at Casa da Feijoada (3), a
d’Ipanema Beach Club (1), a craft cocktail bar on the beach. nearby restaurant devoted to Brazil’s national dish, feijoada.
At the shore’s eastern end lies Arpoador, which divides At this point, the southernmost end of Copacabana beach
Ipanema’s sands from Copacabana. Visitors flock to the is just six blocks away. Tropìk Beach Club, a boardwalk bar
peninsula for the sunsets — fireballs that dip between the with slamming caipirinhas and direct access to the sand,
Dois Irmãos to nightly applause. Visit in the day, and you’ll makes an excellent vantage point. Stretching out into the
find several places to try surfing, including Arpex Surf sea here is another rocky peninsula: Copacabana Fort.
School, which has English-speaking instructors. instagram. Although military-owned, it’s open to visitors, with shady
com/mirantesonhadoroficial arpexsurfschool.com.br benches overlooking Copa’s swathe of pale sand. There’s also
‘Inland’ Ipanema is equally enticing, its streets shaded a branch of famous Rio cafe Confeiteria Colombo. Take a
by bushy sea almond trees. The seven blocks that make up waterfront table at Confeitaria Colombo Café do Forte
sun-dappled Rua Garcia d’Avila are filled with upmarket and order the Bolo Colombo, an indulgent chocolate
boutiques and restaurants set in modernist buildings. gateau with almonds and guava. From here, you’ll see
You’ll find Peruvian ceviche at La Carioca; fair-trade Bahian Arpoador and the tree-lined path back to Ipanema.
chocolate swirled with Amazonian cupuaçu fruit at Dengo; fairmontrio.com confeitariacolombo.com.br
and toiletries scented with turmeric, black tea and Brazil
nut at Granado. Around the corner is Ipanema’s main H OW T O D O I T: British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to
drag, Rua Visconte de Parajá, home to handbag designer Rio de Janeiro International Airport, a 30-minute drive from
Gilson Martins, whose recycled vinyl creations have been Ipanema. Fairmont Rio de Janeiro Copacabana has rooms from
carried by the likes of Madonna and Michelle Obama. £333, B&B, while Journey Latin America offers flights, transfers
instagram.com/lacariocacevicheria dengo.com and five nights’ B&B accommodation from £1,845. fairmontrio.com
granado.com.br gilsonmartins.com.br journeylatinamerica.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 31
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

F A M I LY

TOURS
FOR 202 5
Make your family travels more inspiring
this year, with new itineraries based around
conservation, archaeology, cycling and more

BEST FOR CHANNELLING INDIANA JONES

Ancient treasures in Egypt
Combine a visit to Cairo’s long-awaited Grand Egyptian Museum with a
scramble around sites including the Sphinx and Great Pyramids at Giza.
Part of National Geographic’s Family Journey series in conjunction with
G Adventures, the 10-day Discover Egypt tour is guided by a qualified
Egyptologist — guests learn about discoveries still being unearthed, then
drift down the Nile in a felucca to have dinner in a Nubian family home.
S U I TA B L E F O R : 12+ gadventures.com grandegyptianmuseum.org

B E S T F O R T R A I N FA N S
All aboard in Northern England
Start in Shildon in County Durham, where a new hall at Locomotion houses
Europe’s largest covered collection of historic railway vehicles. Next, head
to York for engineering-themed experiments and games at the National
Railway Museum. Finish up riding the vintage Keighley & Worth Valley
Railway in West Yorkshire; disembark at Oxenhope to watch a new theatrical
staging of The Railway Children, which was partly filmed here.
S U I TA B L E F O R : all ages locomotion.org.uk
railwaymuseum.org.uk kwvr.co.uk

B E S T F O R V I K I N G A DV E N T U R E R S
Full-throttle fjords in Norway
Explore some of Europe’s most striking scenery on Families Worldwide’s
13-day Norway Summer Fjords itinerary. Ride the corkscrewing Flåm
Railway past flower-filled meadows and rushing waterfalls, then whizz
through ancient woodland on a half-mile-long zip-line. At the Viking village
of Njardarheimr, try axe-throwing and archery. Then, tour Sognefjord by
kayak, looking out for dolphins and seals in the water as well as eagles above.
S U I TA B L E F O R : 8+ familiesworldwide.co.uk

B E S T F O R J U N I O R M A R I N E B I O LO G I S T S
Beaches & beyond in Indonesia
Skirt the wildlife-rich waters of Komodo National Park aboard a traditional
pinisi sailing ship on Stubborn Mule’s tailor-made trip. Led by an artist-
naturalist couple, the nine-day SeaTrek Family Cruise offers the chance to
spot whale sharks, sea turtles and manta rays, plus guidance on how to paint
them. Kids can join conservation groups working to restore coral reefs, with
downtime spent snorkelling, paddleboarding or lazing on beaches.
S U I TA B L E F O R : 6+ stubbornmuletravel.com

B E S T F O R Q U I E T FA M I LY T I M E
Canal-side cycling through France
Indonesia’s remote Komodo island is
Avoiding busy roads, this 150-mile trail from Toulouse to the Mediterranean
famed for its eponymous dragons
Above from top: Exhibits at York’s port of Sète follows the Canal du Midi. Exodus’s seven-day, self-guided Canal
IMAGES: ALAMY

National Railway Museum; learn about du Midi Cycling tour cuts through vineyards, villages and sunflower fields.
Norwegian heritage at the Viking Along the way, stop off at the medieval citadel at Carcassonne. The trip can
village in Njardarheimr be done flight-free, via Eurostar to Paris and then by TGV to Toulouse.
S U I TA B L E F O R : 12+ exodus.co.uk D O M T U L E T T

32 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

BOOKS

The next chapter

FROM TH E E VERY DAY S TO RI E S O F N I G HT TIME WO R K ER S
TO TH E L A S TI N G IMPAC T O F DAV I D B OW I E, W E RO U N D U P
I NTRI G U I N G TR AVEL TITLE S H IT TI N G TH E S H ELVE S I N 202 5

A Training School for Elephants Bowieland: Walking in the Is a River Alive?

In the late 19th century, King Leopold II of Footsteps of David This personal and political book by nature
Belgium set out a plan: establish a school to Following open-heart surgery, poet and writer writer Robert Macfarlane explores the idea
tame African elephants, which he thought Peter Carpenter was told, ‘Walk, if you want to that our fates are intertwined with those of
would be the key to fully exploiting the stay on this planet.’ When his hero David rivers. Macfarlane travels first to northern
continent’s resources. Writer Sophy Bowie died in 2016, he decided to do just that: Ecuador, where a cloud forest and its
Roberts pieces together this long-forgotten take a walk into the past, to the very places waterways are threatened by gold-mining.
tale, taking her from Belgium and Iraq to where David Jones became the star we know In southern India, he witnesses a battle to
India and the Democratic Republic of the today. From Brixton to Berlin, this book save wounded creeks and lagoons. Finally, in
Congo, as she examines our often broken explores how Bowie absorbed and forever northeastern Quebec, he finds the Mutehekau
relationship with wildlife. influenced urban cultures across the globe. river being defended from ‘death by damming’.
20 February. Doubleday, £22 27 March. Monoray, £22 1 May. Hamish Hamilton, £25

Overnight: Journeys, Conversations Green Mountains: Walking Slow Trains Around Britain: Notes
and Stories After Dark the Caucasus with Recipes from a 4,088-Mile Adventure on
WORDS: SARAH BARRELL. IMAGE: ALAMY

Overnight is a celebration of all things Beginning in Armenia, moving through 143 Rides
nocturnal. It pays tribute to those who Georgia and ending at the Black Sea, Caroline To celebrate 200 years of passenger railways,
labour while the rest of us sleep — the Eden weaves together the enchanting travel writer and train enthusiast Tom
bakers, sailors and more. It’s also a hymn geography and cult of the kitchen that prevails Chesshyre embarks on a trip around the
to nighttime wildlife, dreams and art. in these territories. Sharing the comfort country that created them.
Travelling by ship, train, racing car and of a meal served after a long walk and the 8 May. Summersdale, £20
foot, writer Dan Richards explores what relationships that she forms with her hosts,
after-dark means to different people, from the award-winning writer offers insights into These titles were chosen by Jude Brosnan, marketing
night terrors to the break of dawn. the culture and food of the Caucasus region. manager of the map and travel bookshop Stanfords,
27 March. Canongate, £20 3 April. Quadrille, £28 established in 1853. stanfords.co.uk

JA N/ FEB 2 0 2 5 35
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

KIT LIST

WINTER ADVENTURES
Clever design and high-tech materials mean these essentials
can withstand everything from lashing rain to snow and ice

1 F I N I S T E R R E S TO R M B I R D 5 5 A RC ’ T E RY X R H O
WAT E R P RO O F JAC K E T 1 H E AV Y W E I G H T B OT TOM S
Roomy enough to fit over layers, The warmest base layer from
this lightweight waterproof has Canadian outdoor specialist
an adjustable hem, Velcro cuffs Arc’teryx, these thermals for men
and curved peak hood. It has a are supremely soft and comfy. The
20,000mm hydrostatic head rating Polartec fleece fabric offers excellent
and 15,000gm² breathability rating protection against the chill, while its
— meaning it keeps out the wet moisture-wicking properties keep
without making you clammy. It’s away sweat. The range also includes
also easily folded into a day pack. a zip-neck top (£130) and is available
Available for both men and women. for women under the Kyanite name.
£250. finisterre.com £110. arcteryx.com

2 M O U N TA I N E Q U I PM E N T 6 FJÄ L L R ÄV E N E X P E D I T I O N
WOM E N ’ S TO U C H S C R E E N D OW N L I T E JAC K E T
G R I P G LOV E S Water- and wind-resistant, this down
2
Made from light, warm and quick- jacket from Swedish brand Fjällräven
drying Polartec Power Stretch fabric, will keep you toasty warm in the
these insulated gloves allow for harshest conditions. Drawcords
excellent dexterity, making them round the hood and bottom keep out
a good choice for active winter 6 cold air, and five large pockets are
adventures. The palms are overlaid 3 great for tucking away gloves, hats
with a silicone print to ensure good and valuables. It packs down into a
grip and the fingertips and thumbs small bag, making it easy to squish
are touchscreen compatible. into luggage or an overhead locker.
£40. cotswoldoutdoor.com £560. fjallraven.com

3 T H E N O RT H FAC E S A L LY 7 R E VO L U T I O N R AC E
I N S U L AT E D T RO U S E R S P H A N TOM T R A I L M I D
The North Face has been equipping H I K I N G B O OT S
adventurers since 1966 and has a Great value for such a robust and
particularly strong range for winter. comfortable pair of boots, the
These trousers are windproof and Phantom Trails are lightweight,
waterproof, so you’re guaranteed to breathable and waterproof. They
stay dry no matter how many times tackle snowy and icy conditions
you fall over in the snow, while the with ease, while the reinforced toe
synthetic insulation keeps you warm 7 and ankle support provides extra
but not sweaty. There’s an adjustable sturdiness and stability. Available
waistband to allow for layering. for men and women in a variety of
£135. thenorthface.co.uk colours. £169. revolutionrace.co.uk
4
4 G A N DY S OATM E A L 8 BUFF POLAR
WORDS: AMANDA CANNING & LORNA PARKES

M AL MO FLEEC E HOODIE M U LT I F U N C T I O N A L N E C K W E A R
Crafted from 100% recycled This neck warmer has two distinct
polyester, this half-zip fleece has 8 parts. Its base is made of a soft
elasticated cuffs, a cosy hood and a fleece to protect the throat from the
kangaroo pocket to keep your hands elements, while the upper half is
warm. For every purchase, 10% goes elasticated, allowing the wearer to
to projects supported by the Gandys pull it over the head or face like a hat
Foundation, which works with local or balaclava. Breathable with high
charities to fund education in some thermal insulation, it’s made with
of the world’s poorest countries. 97% recycled materials. £26.95.
£80. gandysinternational.com buff.com

36 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 REOPENING DECEMBER 24

We are the meeting place for

everyone who loves biking,
boarding and skiing, and wants
to spend a relaxed time in a
pleasant atmosphere.
Passionate athletes, families,
friends, and team colleagues —
it’s all about community.

Visit dips-drops.com for more information

S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

UK BREAK

WILTS HIRE
B E YO N D TH E M AI N AT TR AC TI O N O F S TO N EH EN G E, W I LT S H I R E H A S EQ UALLY IMPRE S S IV E
A N C I ENT S ITE S , G IA N T C HA LK H O R S E S A N D CO SY P U B S I N H I S TO RI C V I LL AG E S

Wiltshire may well be the most mysterious What about its ancient sites? can explore its gardens, home to a changing
county in England. It’s home to the country’s Even if you’ve not been within a hundred miles sculpture exhibition. Also in the village, with
densest concentration of Neolithic remains of Stonehenge, you know exactly what it looks views over the stones, is the thatched Red Lion
— among them, the blockbuster that is like, such is its fame. The circle of upright pub, an excellent spot for sausage and mash
Stonehenge — and a scattering of 13 giant stones topped by horizontal stones was built or shepherd’s pie. Fifteen miles west, Lacock
white horses carved into hillsides and visible on Salisbury Plain some 5,000 years ago, with is a ridiculously pretty place that’s been used
for miles around. Ask what they’re for or why some of the rock transported from Wales. Its as a filming location for adaptations including
they’re there and the response is commonly a purpose remains unclear, although the visitor Downton Abbey, Wolf Hall and the Harry Potter
shrug and a ‘who knows?’. centre puts forward some theories and has films. After you’ve ambled streets lined with
The attractions lose none of their appeal displays of local archaeological finds, including stone and timber-framed houses, call into
for being enigmatic, however. This is a largely battle axes and arrowheads. Less famous — but Lacock Abbey, a country house built around
rural county of chalkland hills, where mist arguably more impressive — is Avebury Stone a 13th-century nunnery. For a pit stop, have a
clings to valley floors and lingers in woodlands Circle, 24 miles north. The largest stone circle pint in the 15th-century Sign of the Angel or
long after the sun has risen — myth and fable in the world, Avebury was built 2850-2000 coffee and cake at the Stables Cafe.
seem in-built into the landscape. And when BCE and originally consisted of 600 stones – 76 Dusk is a good time to venture to one of
you’re done pondering the questions left to us remain visible. Wander the bank enclosing the Wiltshire’s white horses. It’s thought the
by our ancient predecessors, there are inviting site for a good overview. english-heritage.org.uk Westbury White Horse was cut into the chalk
pubs to retreat to in pretty villages. Nothing Bringing us bang up to date, relatively hillside in 1772, joining an Iron Age hill fort and
dispels a sense of mysticism quicker than a speaking, is 16th-century Avebury Manor. The Neolithic long barrow. It’s a popular place to
pint of local ale enjoyed by the fireside. building is currently being refurbished but you watch the sunset. nationaltrust.org.uk

38 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Local tip Bradford-on-Avon is a beautiful
historic town with great restaurants and
pubs. I like to walk down the canal from
there, stopping at The Inn at Freshford
Ricky Carr, head brewer, Three Daggers

Where’s a good place to stay? Where can I buy local produce?

Close to the Westbury White Horse, The Three The Three Daggers’ farm shop, across the car
Daggers in Egington is an excellent bet. There’s park from the pub, stocks a bounty of local
a terrace with a pizza oven, but inside by the goods, ranging from pies and pastries to chilli
fire is where you’ll want to be on a cold day. sauces. It also has its own microbrewery within
Alongside a self-catering cottage, there are the same building, producing bitters, ales
three rooms, each with a cosy-country feel and stouts. For something stronger, head to
— blankets slung over chairs, botanical prints, Bluestone Vineyards, near Stonehenge. Open for
and floral cushions piled high on tall beds. tours and tastings, it produces sparkling whites
There’s a private guest lounge, too, with sofas, and rosés, served with cheese and charcuterie.
open fire and kitchen area. The pub downstairs And for something stronger still, try Lacock
is equally warm and welcoming — all stone Distillery, which produces dry gin using
From left: The Three Daggers floors, beamed ceilings and candelight — and local botanicals. bluestonevineyards.co.uk
IMAGES: BEN PHILLIPS; ALAMY

pub in the village of Egington,

its menu draws heavily on local, seasonal lacockdistillery.com A M A N DA C A N N I N G
western Wiltshire; glazed
produce in dishes such as glazed pork belly,
pork belly served at the pub;
with many of the fruit and vegetables used HOW TO DO IT: There are train stations in
Avebury Stone Circle, built
and adapted between 2850 sourced from its own farm. threedaggers.co.uk Chippenham (serving London, Bath Spa, Swindon
BCE and 2200 BCE; one of the You could also consider a four-person safari and more) and Salisbury (serving London, Bath Spa,
independent shops and cafes tent, treehouse or cabin at Mill Farm Glamping Exeter, Portsmouth and more), from which there are
in the village of Lacock millfarmglamping.co.uk onward bus services. gwr.com visitwiltshire.co.uk

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 39
Don’t sit on it. Sell it.
More than half of us have
camera gear we no longer use.
Sell your gear and upgrade
your visual storytelling.
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completed.

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See mpb.com/info/unused-tech-survey for more details.

 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR

Katie Hale
A VOYAG E TO TH E G RE AT WHITE CO NTINENT I S B OTH A DRE A M COME TRU E
A N D A C ALL TO A R M S , TO PROTEC T O U R I C Y P O LE S A N D, I N T U R N , O U R PL A N E T

As the ship pulled away from the dock, I so unexpectedly — like a face watching
considered what lay before me: the darkening from a dark window in a house you thought
calm of the Beagle Channel, the terrifying swell was empty — the structures were an eerie
of the Drake Passage, and then, glittering like reminder of human presence so far south.
a prize, Antarctica. This was a journey sparked Once I started to notice it, human presence
20 years earlier, by a school geography project. was everywhere, from the research huts
Cutting out magazine photographs of penguins painted with national flags to the tourism
and whales to stick on my ‘All About Antarctica’ industry itself, and the changing climate’s
poster, I’d felt something kindle inside me. effects on Antarctica’s topography. According
I’d imagined sun-carved icebergs, vast to NASA, Antarctica is losing over 135 billion
and glittering, with penguins porpoising in tonnes of ice mass per year. It is a continent
their lee. There would be seals basking on that hangs in the balance of global politics.
ice floes, and albatrosses riding updrafts on In 1959, the Antarctic Treaty was created to
their colossal wings; big-bellied humpbacks ensure the continent would become ‘a natural
breaching the surface. It was an ecological reserve, devoted to peace and science’. The
paradise, free from human interference. treaty relies on global cooperation, and I want
And now here I was, on the deck of MS Fram to believe in its longevity — that Antarctica will
(named after the legendary expedition ship remain a continent dedicated to science, nature
used by Norwegian explorers Fridtjof Nansen and the furthering of human understanding.
and then Roald Amundsen), embarking on the And for the most part, I do. Even in small ways
voyage south — and a new novel. on board the Fram, we were encouraged to
The Edge of Solitude tells the story of Ivy engage with IAATO (International Association
— a disgraced 75-year-old environmental of Antarctic Tour Operators) and the Antarctic
activist. Desperate to redeem her reputation, Ambassadors programme, and to participate in
and so to salvage her relationship with her citizen science projects such as Happywhale,
son, she offers her services to a billionaire’s where individuals upload photographs of whale
controversial Antarctic conservation project. flukes to help identify the marine mammals.
Like mine, Ivy’s journey begins in Ushuaia, But the rusting tanks and refineries of
the world’s most southerly city, at the tip of Deception Island suggest an alternative story:
Argentina. Fin del mundo. The end of the one of Antarctic industry and ecological
world, she says, is the beginning of everything. destruction for the sake of profit. While I was
But as Ivy journeys further south, she must awed by the sight of bow-riding humpbacks
wrestle with her past mistakes, her ambition and penguin colonies glimpsed through
and what she owes the natural world around blizzarding snow, it’s the human aspect of
her. Like me, Ivy encounters the haunting Antarctica — human aspiration and human
beauty of icebergs drifting in the channels, folly — that makes for interesting fiction.
the still black water with grease ice suspended This is the story I chose to explore.
below its surface like tiny translucent jellyfish, Antarctica will always feel adventurous
and the creaks and cracks of glaciers tumbling — the lure of the sea, the drama of the ice
to the shore. She marvels at penguins and — but it is also a place for reflection. A place for
seals and breaching whales. But Antarctica is While I was awed by the wrestling with the mistakes of the past, and
far from an untouched paradise. for weighing our own human desires alongside
My final landing was on Deception Island:
sight of bow-riding our capacity for stewardship and redemption.
a natural harbour in the caldera of a volcano. humpbacks and penguin The Edge of Solitude takes place following the
The Fram arrived when the island was thick hypothetical collapse of the Antarctic Treaty.
with morning fog. Geothermal steam flurried colonies glimpsed through Ivy is faced with the long human history of
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY

along the black-sand beach, where I followed destruction. On Deception Island as in the
a trio of gentoo penguins waddling along the
blizzarding snow, it’s the book, Antarctica is a place where everything
shore. From the blanketing white, skewed human aspect of Antarctica — from individual integrity to global politics
structures emerged: towering vertical boilers, and ecology — feels at stake.
vast russet tanks for storing blubber, simple — human aspiration and
crosses of grave markers — all remnants of
human folly — that makes The Edge of Solitude by Katie Hale is published by
the whaling industry that thrived here in Canongate Books, £16.99.
the first half of the 20th century. Looming for interesting fiction halekatie.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 41
C OM P E T I T I O N

WIN

A S E LF- DRIVE
RIVER C RU I S E
IN FR ANC E
Le Boat is offering one reader and five guests
the chance to travel a waterway of their choice
for up to seven nights on a modern cruiser

THE EXPERIENCE From top: Boats on the Canal du Midi

Specialist tour operator Le Boat has been near Toulouse; navigating the Canal du
Nivernais in western Burgundy; the Orb
helping travellers self-captain modern boats
Aqueduct in Béziers
along some of Europe’s best waterways for more
than 50 years. In France, the company operates
in nine regions, as well as the UNESCO-listed TO E N T E R
Canal du Midi, which connects the Atlantic to the Answer the question below by visiting
Mediterranean via iconic wine regions. Other natgeotv.com/uk/competitions
options include following the River Lot, with its
dramatic limestone cliffs and hilltop villages, or H OW M A N Y F R E N C H R E G I O N S
the curve of the Mediterranean, alongside the D O E S L E B OAT O P E R AT E I N ?
pretty beaches of southern France and lagoons
of the Camargue, where white horses and pink
flamingos roam free.

THE PRIZE
Courtesy of Le Boat, Europe’s leading provider
of self-drive river and canal boat holidays,
one prize winner and five guests can travel to
any of Le Boat’s French destinations on board
a Horizon 1 or Horizon 2 boat for up to seven
Competition closes at 23:59 on 31 January
nights. The prize includes a return crossing to 2025. The winner must be a UK resident and
France with one en suite cabin on Brittany Ferries aged 18 or over.

from Portsmouth, Poole or Plymouth, valid for six

people travelling with one car. The prize is valid The Promoter is APL Media Limited, publisher
of National Geographic Traveller (UK),
from 5 April 2025 to 6 June 2026, excluding bank Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road,
IMAGES: GETTY; LE BOAT

holidays and blackout dates (27 April to 10 May London NW5 1TL. There is one prize consisting
of one trip for up to six people. Only one
2025; 31 May to 7 June 2025; 8 July to 31 August
entry per named entrant and email address
2025), and must be booked at least eight weeks will be accepted. The winner will be drawn at
in advance. The prize could be substituted for random. The prize is subject to availability,
non-exchangeable and non-transferable. No
another of similar value should the original offer cash alternative will be offered. For full T&Cs,
not be available. leboat.com visit ngtr.uk/france2025

42 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 aفõ™¼ǀ,ÃÝéفϙǀ
ö¬å©ǀüÊéǀ¬Ãǀ¬Õ

$™åǀ¬ÃÝåÃåǀÊõ™Ù
truetraveller.com
ÊÙǀ¼¼ǀ0333 999 3140

åفõ™¼ǀ¬ÃÝéفϙǀ•™Ý¬¤Ã™•ǀŽüǀåفõ™¼¼™ÙÝ

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 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

MEET THE TRAILBLAZER

Dianne Whelan
TH O U G H N OT A SE A SO N ED HIKER TO B EG I N WITH , TH E FI L M M AKER B EC A ME
TH E FI R S T PER S O N TO COM PLE TE TH E WO R LD ’ S LO N G E S T TR A I L N E T WO RK

Dianne Whelan, 59, is an award-winning Canadian

documentary filmmaker and author. In 2015, with
little hiking experience, she set off from St John’s,
Newfoundland, to walk, bike and canoe the Trans Canada
Trail, which stretches some 14,900 miles across the
country as the longest trail network in the world. For most
of her six-year journey she travelled solo, filming for her
latest independent documentary, 500 Days in the Wild.

What did the route involve? My goal was to complete the

journey in one continuous line, beginning on the Atlantic
coast and making my way across Canada to Alberta, where
I’d head north up to the Arctic Ocean before heading back
down to the finish line on the Pacific. In all, the route is
made up of 487 separate trails, involving lots of paddling
and portages — where you carry your canoe between two
bodies of water — in addition to hiking and biking.

Where did your inspiration for the trip come from? My

mom told me about this unbelievable new trail, and part
of what intrigued me was that it had never been done. And
the conditions in my life were just right. My marriage of 13
years had ended, my dog of 16 years had died. Everything
that was tethering me was not there anymore. Yes, it was
sad, but it was also a unique opportunity to go and do it.

How did you prepare? I gave up my home, sold my car and

basically got rid of my bills. I didn’t have special equipment
— just my old knapsack and mountain bike. When I came
to my first water trail, I borrowed a friend of a friend’s
canoe. Fitness-wise, it was all on-the-job training. How else How did you feel on the trail? Not for one day did I feel
do you prepare your body to be active for nine hours a day? lonely, even though I’d go months without seeing anyone.
It was a very grassroots unfolding, and in hindsight that Suddenly, what mattered was the direction of the wind, the
was my superpower. The problem with overplanning is animal prints around me. I felt an awakening of something
you become rigidly attached to the plan. I did leave with that’s probably in all of our ancestry — a connection to my
a schedule, but I burned it on day 10, when I was berating environment. I learned the old way of travelling isn’t doing
myself for not having done what I thought I could do in it without a motor, it’s with reverence for the land. For all
three days. The trip was supposed to last 500 days — hence the fear people have of nature, it’s our home.
the name of my film — but ended up taking six years.
What was it like travelling solo as a woman? There’s no
What was your daily routine like? One of the key things bravado here — I was afraid of being a woman camping
on a journey of this length is self-care. If the waters were alone at night, that I couldn’t lock my door. But over
calm, I’d paddle longer days; when the weather wasn’t the course of my journey, I was helped by hundreds of
good, I’d stop. There was nobody to help if something strangers. When I left home, I thought the world was run
went wrong. I really came to recognise my own fragility. by psychopaths, but it turns out it’s full of kind people.

How did it feel to cross the finish line? It was a real lowlight
IMAGE: BRANDON FOREMAN

actually — having to reconnect to this other way of living

I learned the old way of travelling after having been unburdened of needing to make money
for bills for so long. Luckily, having 800 hours of film
isn’t doing it without a motor, it’s with footage to sift through gave me something to focus on.
reverence for the land. For all the fear 500 Days in the Wild will be in cinemas in early 2025; for
more information, see 500daysinthewild.com
people have of nature, it’s our home I N T E RV I E W: G E O R G I A S T E P H E N S

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 45
 W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

A TOUR OF EGYP T’S

VALLE Y OF THE WHALE S
South west of Cairo, deep in the country’s Western Desert, whalebone displays offer
a window onto the great history — and mysteries — of evolution. Words: Bella Falk

Ancient Egyptian history is brought to life It’s one of the most barren environments on Palaeontologists have been uncovering
by a cast of thousands, from Tutankhamun’s Earth, but there are signs of prehistoric life: prehistoric whales here for over a century.
gilded death mask to the pyramids’ enigmatic smooth mollusc shells; coin-shaped fossils Around 1,000 individuals have been
Sphinx. But drive 100 miles south west of of ocean creatures called nummulites; even identified, making this the biggest whale
Cairo into the vast sandscape of the Western sharks’ teeth. They’re confusing things to find graveyard on Earth. That’s why, in a nod to
Desert and it’s possible to see the clock wind in a desert 100 miles from the coast, but 40 Egypt’s more famous burial site — the Valley
back even further — to a time when Egypt was million years ago, what’s now North Africa was of the Kings — they named it Wadi al-Hitan,
populated not by kings but monsters. submerged by an ocean called the Tethys. the Valley of the Whales.
Here, at the end of a long, unsealed road is What’s most dramatic and surprising is There are about a dozen skeletons for
Wadi al-Hitan, a 75sq-mile UNESCO World the well-preserved skeleton of an enormous visitors to tour, all dated to around 37 to 40
Heritage Site said to hold the key to one of the predator laid out on the sand, its spine the million years old. The bones are fascinating
mysteries of evolution. You wouldn’t think so length of a cricket pitch. “When scientists to explore, but they’re also crucial to
looking at it. There’s no life in this sand valley: discovered this creature, they thought it was a understanding one of the most bizarre stories
no houses, no trees — just mile after mile of gigantic marine reptile,” says Hesham Sallam, of evolution — and the key to this can be found
desert stretching in every direction, as endless lead palaeontologist at Wadi al-Hitan. “It was in Wadi al-Hitan’s small museum.
and golden as the riches of the pharaohs. only later they realised it’s an ancient whale.” READ MORE ONLINE

TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the
website this month ROA D T R I P S D I S A S T E R A F T E R M AT H ANIM AL FRIENDS
RV camping diversifies Asheville in the wake of Helene Top tips for trips with pets
More Black Americans are taking The hurricane ravaged parts of the The travel world is rolling out the
RV camping trips than ever, thanks North Carolina city, but hospitality red carpet for animal guests, from
partly to new community groups. businesses are steadily re-opening. pet-friendly hotels to flights.

46 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 A PR AC TIC AL G U I D E
B E YO N D T H E
T R AV EL S EC T I O N

TO STARGA ZING
F ROM W H AT TO PAC K TO H OW TO B E A R E S P O N S I B L E A S T ROTO U R I S T,
H ER E ’ S E V E RY T H I N G YO U N E E D TO K N OW. WO R D S : M E GA N E AV E S

With light pollution increasing by 10% every Where and when to go stargazing
year, fewer and fewer people have regular The ideal stargazing locations are far from
access to a truly dark night sky. Unhindered city lights, with unobstructed views of the
stargazing has become a rare experience horizon. Mountains, moorlands, deserts and
for many, yet it’s a tranquil escape from the remote islands are good choices, thanks to
frenetic modern world, giving us the chance their isolation, clear conditions and lack of
to switch off and reflect on the enormity of the light pollution. Winter is the best time of year
cosmos and our place in it. because there are longer hours of darkness and
Light pollution not only affects our ability the air tends to be clearer (astronomers call
| S C I E N C E |
to see stars but also has a significant impact this ‘good seeing’).
on astronomical research, harms biodiversity, To save monarch butterflies,
contributes to global warming and impacts What to bring on a stargazing trip scientists want to move
human health. Preserving dark skies is Night-time temperatures can drop mountains — quite literally
essential for all living things, and being a significantly, especially in desert or mountain Climate change could wipe out
IMAGES: BELLA FALK; STEVE BELL; JAIME ROJO; GETTY; CHRISTIANE VON ENZBERG, AGENTUR FOCUS-REDUX;

respectful astrotourist helps you play a part in locations. Dress in layers and make sure to monarchs’ winter habitats. An
protecting our planet for future generations bring a pair of finger-flap gloves and a hat. ‘assisted migration’ strategy aims
PAOLO VERZONE; STEVE MARCUS-REUTERS-REDUX; ERIC KRUSZEWSKI, NAT GEO IMAGE COLLECTION

— here’s how to do it responsibly. READ MORE ONLINE to create a new home for them.
natgeo.com/science

| H I S T O R Y |
From police raids to pop culture:
the early history of modern drag
Drag emerged from two separate
worlds: female impersonators in
silent films and popular theatre,
and underground balls — part of
a vibrant LGBTQ+ subculture.
natgeo.com/history

| A N I M A L S |
We’re hardwired to love baby
animals. Experts reveal why
Round heads, big eyes: features in
newborn animals are more than
just amusing — they trigger
powerful evolutionary responses
VI S IT N ATG E O.C OM / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAILY that help our species’ survival.
natgeo.com/animals

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
X

LO N G - D I S TA N C E H I K E S N I C A R AG UA I N D I G E N O U S C OM M U N I T I E S
The Via Transilvanica What to know before visiting America’s national parks
Explore Romania’s 870-mile trail A rising number of travellers are Discover these wild destinations
through citadels, villages and discovering this country’s surf spots, through the eyes of the people
UNESCO World Heritage Sites. quaint villages and new hotels. who first called them home.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 47
 WEEKENDER

LEVI
Above the Arctic Circle, this lively resort encapsulates the wild heart of
Finnish Lapland — and hits its stride in winter, with snowy woodland
walks, frozen lakes and reindeer encounters. Words: Simon Ingram

Picture Arctic Finland in winter and you’re supermarkets, a good selection of restaurants,
picturing Levi. Or rather, Levi’s the destination a fully fledged ski resort clustered around a hill
that delivers what you’re envisaging — an and even a tattooist (if that’s your thing).
atmospheric dead-of-winter dose of cosy That all of this is crammed into a tangle of
wildness. Without the bustle of Rovaniemi, streets home to a year-round population of
the ‘official’ home of Santa, or the isolation of just 600 makes Levi quite a find on a practical
northern outpost Saariselkä, this small resort level. It’s also very accessible, only 15 minutes
manages to strike a sweet balance. You get from the little airport at Kittilä and two hours
the log cabins, frozen lakes and the endless, from Rovaniemi. But none of this practicality
snow-bowed conifers. Revving snowmobiles is at the expense of Nordic winter magic at
and yowling huskies. Christmas lights and its most elemental. Its fairy lights peering
— hopefully — Northern Lights, too. Santa, idyllically out into the polar night, Levi and its
obviously. But you also get a spa, a choice of surroundings have charm in spades.

48 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 From left: The sky takes on
a pink hue during a winter
sunset in snowy Levi; a team
of huskies wait for the driver
of the sled to give them the
command to run

TO P F I V E
Finnish flavours

PULLA BREAD
Enriched with fragrant
cardamom and a bit like
brioche in texture and
sweetness, this traditional
Finnish bread is sometimes
also stuffed with raisins
and almonds, providing an
energy kick on cold days.

L A P P B E R RY J U I C E
Made with bilberries,
cloudberries and
cranberries that grow
locally, this warming tea
is a non-alcoholic cross
between a fruit infusion and
mulled wine.

REINDEER
Whether in a stew, cutlets
or meatballs, reindeer

DAY O N E HUSKIES, WALKS & SAUNA

in Lapland isn’t just
sustenance, it’s a cultural
staple that’s sustained
Morning Afternoon Evening the Sámi way of life for
Levi is chilly in winter — an average Grab lunch at Pannukakkutalo, a For a taste of the local cuisine, centuries. Rich and musky,
day is around -15C. So, make a pit bistro that serves pancakes with head to Ravintola Ämmilä, a the meat is full of flavour.
stop at Perhesafarit equipment toppings such as smoked reindeer, cosy wood-panelled restaurant
rental store if you need to stock then go on a DIY walking tour that serves up traditional Lapp S PRUC E S HOOT
S MOOTHIE
up on cold-weather clothing of Levi. The village itself — with food with a modern flair. Menu
This earthy blend rich in
before your first snow excursion. a centrepiece of a grand spruce options are likely to include
antioxidants and nutrients is
Husky tours operate from several festooned with lights — is called dishes such as reindeer and
an appealingly wholesome
farms around Levi, which offer Sirkka; Levi is the name of the ski Arctic berries, as well as a Finnish
(and literal) taste of the
quintessential Lapland outings resort that can be seen above sweet fortified wine called lakka, forests that define this
from an hour to two days. The the village, on piste-etched made from cloudberries. After region of Finland.
dogs, usually wiry Alaskan huskies Levitunturi hill (1,742ft). Wander that, head home for a sauna. It’s
rather than fluffy malamutes, will up Sirkka’s main street, watching a quintessentially Finnish ritual L A P I N T E RVA PA S T I L L I
IMAGES: GETTY; SAARISELKA; STOCKFOOD

energetically yowl and gallop their out for snowmobiles, and browse and there are more than 2,000 These black lozenges are
way through snowy forest trails at pedestrianised Keskuskuja for of them in Levi alone — virtually seasoned with honey,
spruce and pitch oil — a by-
an exhilarating clap. Headquartered products like Sámi shamanic every accommodation will have
product of pine tar used as
in a forest and with its own grillkota drums and Lappish charms. Grab one. This cultural tradition is meant
a natural remedy in Finland.
(‘grill house’) hut where you can a walking trail map from the to be enjoyed communally rather
The flavour encapsulates
warm up afterwards, Polar Lights tourist info centre and follow than alone, and will leave you
this wild northern region,
Tours runs dog-led itineraries, the two-mile loop to the lake of feeling elementally both at odds and the lozenges make a
from night-time aurora hunts Immeljärvi, Levi’s three-quarters- and entwined with your chilly new great keepsake; find them
to brisk ‘safaris’. perhesafarit.fi of-a-mile-long frozen landmark. surroundings — in a good way. near the checkouts in many
polarlightstours.fi pannukakkutalo.fi levi.fi hulluporo.fi of Levi’s souvenir shops.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 49
 MAGNETIC ISLAND, TOWNSVILLE, AUSTRALIA

Wander into
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0LGGOHRIQRZKHUH
PLQXWHVIURPWKHFLW\

TOWNSVILLE
NORTH QUEENSLAND

From the Great Barrier Reef to the lush rainforests and the rugged outback,
Townsville and Magnetic Island (Queensland, Australia) are the home of
untouched and untamed landscapes connecting you to the essence of
Australia’s diverse natural beauty.

A region where you can explore deeper and experience something new,
different or familiar – but with a twist. Discover something you didn’t know you
were looking for and leave inspired with a fresh perspective.

WATCH THE VIDEO

 WEEKENDER

Below: Skiing through

DAY T WO REINDEER, CABLE- CARS & SECRET CAFES
the centre of Sirkka,
below Levi ski resort
Morning Afternoon Evening
The traditionally nomadic people Get a cable-car from Zero Point Grab your dinner at cosy Classic
who call this region home are the — Levi’s buzzing ski hub — to the Pizza Restaurant — part of Levi
Sámi and they’ve herded the local Hotel Panorama. Positioned on Hotel Spa Resort, just on the
reindeers for centuries. Spend the hillside ski slopes, it offers outskirts of town. The pizza is
the morning at a farm such as spellbinding views across the very decent (the restaurant does
Ounaskievari, a historic roadhouse region; the white streaks and takeaway, too), but it’s also ideally
a 15-minute drive from Levi, for a patches you’ll see from up here located as a jumping-off point
unique opportunity to learn about are frozen rivers and lakes amid for one of Levi’s best nighttime
the deep relationship the Sámi endless subarctic taiga forest. Grab activities. Take the underpass
have with this resilient animal, a light lunch of salmon at the hotel’s next to the hotel and head south
as well as local predators such as Restaurant Panorama, then take in along the Levintie road, back
bears, wolverines and wolves. Tours the adjacent Samiland Exhibition to towards Immeljärvi Lake. It’s just
include a meditative reindeer sled learn more about the Sámi people. as beautiful at night as it is during
ride through a forest, a pit stop There’s also a wooded trail west the day — and it also happens to be
at a lavvu (traditional tipi shelter) of the hotel that leads to the Cafe one of the best places in town to
and the opportunity to observe Panorama Laavu — the ‘secret cafe’. see the aurora borealis. Even if the
the Sámi-reindeer bond. A lake Here, in an intimate cabin with a lights don’t make an appearance,
behind the main farmhouse, frozen firepit, enjoy hot chocolate and it’s a novelty to walk on the ice:
in winter, offers atmospherically a vista of a frozen landscape that during winter, the lake’s surface
frigid views, with picturesque disappears into ever-deeper blues. is crisscrossed by walking, skiing
TO P T H R E E cabins dotted around the shore. levi.skiperformance.com and even snowmobile trails.
Evocative ounaskievari.fi samiland.fi classicpizza.fi
Finnish words
L ÖY LY
Saunas are intrinsic to
Finland and having one
is a sensory ritual. The
steam itself is the löyly
(loy-lee), an abstract word
akin to ‘soul’ and linked to
wellbeing. Taken simply,
it’s the quality of the steam
that erupts from the sauna’s
stove, or kiuas, which varies
depending on the type of
stove and fuel used.

KAAMOS
This seductive term refers
to the period between mid-
December and mid-January
when, due to the country’s
latitude, the sun stays below
the horizon. During kaamos
(ka-mos), the land is bathed
in a spectrum of blues
during the brief day, fading
to an 18-hour night lit only
by the moon, fairy lights and
— maybe — auroras.

H I L JA I S U U S
Often namechecked as a
philosophy as well as a state
of being, hiljaisuus can refer
to a calmness and quiet in
a person as well as on the
landscape. During winter,
when snow lies thick on the
trees and ground, forest
IMAGE: ALAMY

noises are stilled and sounds

are absorbed by countless
air pockets that act as
acoustic silencers.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 51
WEEKENDER

Extreme
conditions
Between
December and
January, Levi is in
the midst of its
polar night, which
means the sun
doesn’t appear
above the horizon,
with some colour
in the sky only
around midday.
Bring plenty of
warm gear, pack
eye drops for the
cold, dry air and
consider carrying
a headlamp or
torch. Phone lights
are handy, but a
phone’s battery
can die quickly
in the cold, so
reserve it for photo
opportunities.

TH RE E MO RE ESSENTIAL L APL AND E XPERIENCES

Aurora hunting Meeting Santa Ice hotel HOW TO DO IT
The Northern Lights are Fittingly for a place synonymous Each year, more than 20 million Levi is a 15-minute drive
notoriously mercurial, but Levi’s with Christmas, Finnish Lapland kilos of snow and ice are used from Kittilä airport, around
extreme northern latitude doesn’t shut up shop on 25 to create the Lapland Hotels a 3.5-hour flight from the
increases the chances of seeing the December. Excursions still happen, SnowVillage, around 45 minutes UK. EasyJet, Finnair and
phenomenon. Displays can range shops stay open and, with enough from Levi. Festooned with Lufthansa run scheduled
from a faint glow, best recorded on festive atmosphere supplied by the sculptures, an ice bar, a restaurant flights. Inghams offers a
a camera, to a dancing spectacle of authentic ambience, chintz is at a and surreal accommodation, it’s number of breaks in Levi
greens and reds. The solar activity minimum. But a family trip to meet a unique — if pricey — experience from three to 14 nights, in
that causes auroras is currently the man himself is often an intrinsic to stay here. It’s also possible to accommodation ranging
enjoying an 11-year cyclical peak, part of the Lapland experience. You explore on a day trip. Visitors can from self-catering log cabins
meaning brighter displays. can go to Rovaniemi for the day, marvel at the artistry on show and to five-star hotels. Prices
Download the My Aurora Forecast but it’s a four-hour return journey experience just how intrinsic and for a three-night trip start at
app, which can help gauge the from Levi. A better option is to beautiful snow is to the landscape £1,049 per person including
likelihood of catching one. The head for Tonttula, the Elves’ Village, of northern Finland by touring its flights to Kittilä and
more committed may want to a half-hour drive from the resort. various nooks and crannies. Book a transfers. inghams.co.uk
hire a professional aurora hunter Here, you can meet reindeer, bake ticket for the Ice Exhibition, which
through a company in Levi such as gingerbread, make decorations and will allow access to the hotel rooms,
IMAGE: ELVES VILLAGE

Juki Tours. Local guides are experts explore the occasionally creepy the ice sculptures and the ice bar
on the microclimate and will drive mythology surrounding Lapland’s — an enchanting space that’s dimly
you out to remote locations to most famous resident; pre-book lit in a mix of ethereal blues and
increase the chances of a sighting. if you want to meet Santa himself. purples and stays open until late. Above: Souvenirs at the
jukitours.com elvesvillage.fi laplandhotels.com Elves’ Village in Tonttula

52 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 MORE HAPPINESS:
VISITKEMIJARVI.FI

Money
can’t buy
happiness
Here in Kemijärvi, in the heart of Finnish Lapland, lie the treasures of the world’s happiest people.
Icy lakeside views, snow-covered fells, the northern lights, and pristine nature stretch as far as
the eye can see. The atmosphere is welcoming, unhurried, and calming to the soul. You can’t buy
happiness, but you might find travel tickets, accommodation, and delightful activities for sale.

Have a happy journey.

 E AT

ARUBA
Dutch and Portuguese flavours bring international flair to local seafood
on this Caribbean island, from freshly grilled mahi mahi to citrussy fried
shrimp. But save room for clay pot stews and cheese-stuffed pastries

WORDS: JA MES M ARCH

Leaning back on the captain’s chair, Sherwin “It’s a workout, right?” says Sherwin
Muller crosses his scuffed, olive-green afterwards, laughing. I tell him breathlessly
sandals and steers our trawler out of Aruba’s that I’ll remember this slog with some
Renaissance Marina. It’s 7.30am and the reverence when I sit down for dinner later.
breeze blowing through the boat’s upper Aruba is set on the Caribbean Sea’s
deck is merciful on this humid morning, southernmost flank, barely 15 miles from the
as the marina’s stillness gives way to the Venezuelan coast. The island is just 20 miles
Caribbean Sea’s choppy roll. from end to end, and its 18th-century capital

IMAGES: BOARDWALK BOUTIQUE HOTEL ARUBA; ARUBA TOURISM AUTHORITY; CALL ME PETIT; TASTE MY ARUBA
“I’m the only fisherman in my family,” Oranjestad was once a thriving merchant city,
says Sherwin, now in his 11th year at Hatts but these days is a breezy, pastel-splashed
Off Fishing Charters. “My mom worked in the pit stop for the mountainous cruise ships that
oil refinery and my dad was a cop.” Wearing heave into its busy port every week.
a stained grey hoodie and floral shorts, the Possibly inspired by the opening line of
jocular Sherwin exudes calm while I hope my the Beach Boys’ 1988 earworm track, Kokomo
fragile sea legs don’t abandon me. Aruba’s a (“Aruba, Jamaica, ooh I wanna take ya”),
fish-obsessed island, and this expedition is a the island seems to have been canonised as
window into the everyday life of the fisherfolk the Caribbean escape du jour for Americans.
who use the traditional line-caught method. Aruba’s tourist heart has a slick western
Every hotel and restaurant in Aruba serves fish feel and its streets are well furnished with
in one form or another, from succulent deep- McDonald’s, KFC and Wendy’s.
sea grouper to small but muscular octopus. But travel beyond the garish Americana
“When I was young, I used to watch the guys of Oranjestad’s port and west-coast Palm
coming in with wahoo and mahi mahi,” Beach’s well-heeled strip, and Aruba couldn’t Clockwise from right:
Sherwin says, pointing toward the docks. be more different, its unusual desert climate The Coco Cafe bar at
Suddenly a metallic-blue wahoo shoots creating rolling, cactus-strewn trails. the Boardwalk Boutique
out of the water and Sherwin leaps from his Seafood graces practically every menu on Hotel; Boca Grandi
chair, spitting commands to his crew below this multinational island, but locals hold an Beach on Aruba’s

in Aruba’s local creole language Papiamento. unabashed love for cheese and deep-fried southeast coast hosts
the world’s largest
I scurry down to the chaotic lower deck and am soul food. I stop by Huchada, a family-run
amateur windsurfing and
quickly inserted into the boat’s ‘fighting chair’, roadside bakery with a patient morning
kitesurfing competition
like a movie president scrambling into the war queue extending outside from its well-stocked
every year; tuna tartare
room. Reeling in the struggling wahoo takes counters. I order a host of favourites, including at Taste my Aruba
around five minutes but feels like an eternity, the ubiquitous cheese pastechi. The small, restaurant in Oranjestad;
with my right arm limp and my grey T-shirt warm half-moon pasty filled with melted Rodger’s Beach, near the
caked in sweat. gouda cheese is an unctuous delight, with the island’s southern tip

54 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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 E AT

A TA S T E O F
Aruba

INFINI
Local chef Urvin Croes showcases
island produce, from delicate
croquettes to quails. The pâté with
king oyster mushroom is sourced
from Rachell Peterson’s urban farm
Farmacure Fungi. A map of local
suppliers’ locations is a nice touch.
Eight-course tasting menu US$169
(£132); seven-glass wine pairing,
US$110 (£86). infiniaruba.com

The tram that runs along

Wilheminastraat, in Oranjestad PA P I A M E N TO
Right: Malta cake at Infini, with mispel Try keshi yena, an Aruban cheese
(medlar) ice cream, lime cheesecake, pie stuffed with chicken, olives,
apple compote and a malta (citrus) sauce raisins, minced beef and cashews,
wrapped in a burnt gouda exterior
— a sweet-savoury treat. Try them
on the shady terrace then head
subtle sweetness of the pastry balancing the “I opened here three years ago,” she says, inside to Pappa’s Cigar Lounge for
saltiness emanating from the cheese. smiling though her thick-framed black glasses. pricey bourbons and Cuban cigars.
“In Papiamento we say ‘sin webo no tin “I started under a tree down the road with Two courses around US$65 (£51).
fiesta’ – ‘no egg, no party’,” explains my guide four tables and an induction stove. I sold papiamentoaruba.com
Jonathan as I bite into a webo yena, a soft sandwiches, but they didn’t really work. Then
devilled egg garnished with black pepper, salt one day a guy came over, since I was close to THE WEST DECK
and oregano. There’s a delicious, bitter tang to the harbour, and sold me seven kilos of wahoo. This Oranjestad-based beach
its creamy texture. And the rest is history.” bar is the home of the ‘beerita’:
Aruba’s soupy humidity ramps up by I toast the restaurant’s haphazard origin a bottle of local Balashi beer
lunchtime and the sea breeze at our next stop, story with a smoky old fashioned and learn upturned in a rum punch. But the
coastal hotspot Zeerover, feels like a blessing. that Nathaly is a food obsessive who’ll harness food here is the real delight. The
This place draws in knowing crowds from any method to provide the freshest produce tender beer-battered grouper
right across the island, despite a southern for her customers. Recently, growing produce pairs wonderfully with the sweet
location that’s far from the traditional tourist in hydroponic greenhouses has taken off. coconut and plantain rice, while the
drag. Here, they bring out food in baskets Nathaly’s lettuce comes from greenhouses fried gouda cheese balls are given
and encourage eating with your hands. It’s run by local Jake Arends, while Oranjestad a fiery pica di papaya hot sauce
liberating, and I snatch at succulent cuts of tattooist Rachell Peterson provides oyster, kick. Mains from US$21.50 (£17).
mahi mahi loin, tender ovals of fried plantain shiitake and lion’s head mushrooms grown at thewestdeck.com
and more pre-peeled shrimp than is decent or her urban farm Farmacure Fungi.
indeed necessary. “All my fish is line-caught,” she says. “I have PINCHOS BAR AND GRILL
That evening in Oranjestad, Nathaly De my own fishermen. It’s a relationship. They’re A superlative coastal spot for
Mey waits for me beneath a swirling ceiling my family.” I’m served a buttery tuna tartare sunset. Book ahead to snag a table
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ROB ARISMENDI

fan at Taste My Aruba, her restaurant on lively on a bed of fresh avocado, before a shredded at the far end of the deck or, even
Wilhelminastraat — one of several local food stoba di cabrito is brought out in a small clay better, on the pier. Standouts
venues that hosted the island’s new culinary pot. Despite the year-round heat, Arubans include pan-seared sea scallops
festival, Autentico, when it made its debut in love stews and this hearty goat variety is rich, in vegetable ratatouille, while
October 2024. The colourful Portuguese-tiled chewy and given a fiery kick by a drop of hot the pan-fried mahi mahi fillet
patio of this century-old building is draped pica di papaya sauce. “We don’t have one such with glazed carrots and plantain
in festoon lights, while the garden is awash thing as Aruban food, we’re a melting pot of puree is classic Aruban seafood.
with fragrant thyme, basil, mint, lemongrass, cultures,” Nathaly explains, before discussing Two courses around US$50 (£39).
lavender and rosemary. Aruba’s love for Italian polenta, Indonesian pinchosaruba.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 57
E AT

From left: Mahi mahi

fillets; chef Taki at an
impromptu barbecue
at the Boardwalk
Boutique Hotel

FIVE FOOD FINDS

MAHI MAHI
This locally caught, popular island
fish is mild, sweet and often served
delicately fried. Zeerover (‘pirate’
in Dutch), located in Savaneta,
cooks a magnificent example.
satay sauce and Colombian beans. “We even where we scoop up natural salt left behind by
have black pudding,” she says, with a staccato the seawater following evaporation.
S TO B A D I C A B R I TO laugh. “I love black pudding. My chef makes a “Anyone can gather this salt but nobody does
A dense Aruban goat stew, beautiful black pudding croquette.” because it’s easier to go to the supermarket,” he
sometimes served alongside For those with the time and passion, says, as we amble back to the car.
rice and garnished with parsley foraging is also an option in this challenging Taki reappears at my hotel that evening,
— a hearty local favourite. landscape. One man with both is Frank Kelly, armed with a small barbecue. Moonlight gives
a chef known by all as ‘Taki’. Inked in tattoos the clouds above a milky white glow, while
of sketches by his children and hopping the wind ruffles the swaying palms. He boils a
C H E E S E PA S T E C H I with bubbling energy when we meet, the gentle consommé using the salt and seaweed
These deep-fried half-moons of gregarious Taki is Aruban of Colombian and we’d found earlier, before finishing with tender
pastry stuffed with warm melted Irish heritage. It’s hard to imagine that he once pink shark and octopus he caught the day
Dutch gouda cheese are perfect worked in a bank. These days he tours the before. I’m grateful; he didn’t need to do all this.
when you’re on the go. island, scavenging on land and fishing at sea. “For us, on our island, giving you a lot of
“In my family, I’m the only one who fishes food is giving you love,” he says, sharing a
and loves the water,” he says, echoing Sherwin local rum with me. “It is equivalent to love.
KESHI YENA Muller. “My mom and dad weren’t supportive And I like that.”
A steamed or baked stuffed cheese when I started surfing, because I’m an only
ball made from Dutch edam or child. I’m their everything.” HOW TO DO IT: Weekly British Airways flights from
gouda, filled with chicken, raisins, During a serpentine drive into Aruba’s Gatwick to Antigua continue on to Aruba, while daily
IMAGES: JAMES MARCH; STOCKFOOD

cashews or olives. parched heart, we pick up bitter fungi growing KLM flights travel to Aruba from multiple UK airports
on the umbrella-like kwihi tree, sweet red (via Amsterdam). Tui has occasional direct summer
fruits from the breba cactus and citrus flowers flights between Gatwick and Aruba. Journey time
P I C A D I PA PAYA from somebody’s front garden. In between from 11h. Other carriers serving the island via their
The ubiquitous orange-coloured, pontificating on mortality (“You have to ride hubs include American Airlines and JetBlue. aa.com
viscous hot sauce made from life until the wheels fall off!”) and stopping for ba.com jetblue.com klm.co.uk tui.co.uk
scotch bonnet chilli peppers is drinks at the various Chinese supermarkets Boardwalk Boutique Hotel has casitas for two from
found on almost every Aruban scattered through Aruba’s inner suburbs, Taki US$486 (£378), room only. boardwalkaruba.com
restaurant table. brings us to the island’s rocky south coast, MORE INFO: visitaruba.com

58 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Our new 2025
brochure is

out now!

No Single
Room
Supplements Call us to order your free Alfa Travel
in 2025 on all
Alfa Travel brochure today or go online!
Holidays

Alfa Travel Holidays Include:

 Accommodation, dinner and breakfast
 Entertainment most evenings in our
Leisureplex Hotels
 Wi-Fi at Leisureplex Hotels
 Excursions at no extra charge
 Return travel from local convenient pick up points
 No additional charge for local pick up points or
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To Book your next holiday contact us on 01257 248089,

go online alfatravel.co.uk or visit your local travel agent Member 7089
 S LE E P

MIL AN

ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM-ONLY, UNLESS

Fashion Week, Formula One, outdoor summer concerts in Piazza del

OTHERWISE STATED. IMAGES: ALAMY; GALLERIA VIK MILANO

Duomo: Milan’s events never stop — and nor do its hotel openings. Visitors
pour in to Italy’s richest city lured by its mix of luxury stores and
neo-classical architecture, the highlights of which — like the Teatro
alla Scala opera house and 19th-century, glass-topped Galleria Vittorio
Emanuele II arcade — are found in the centre. But there’s also plenty of
fun to be had elsewhere: head south to Navigli, whose canals and boutique
stores make it a hit among young crowds, or north to Chinatown to
contemplate the differences between dumplings and ravioli.

W O R D S : C H A R L O T T E LY T T O N

60 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Best for art-lovers
£ £ £ GA L L E R I A V I K
Spread across the upper floors of Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping
arcade, this arty hotel is the first European
outpost of South American brand Vik Retreats.
It proudly reflects the Uruguayan heritage
of co-founder Alex Vik via art installations
and dedicated culture and food nights.
Each of the 89 guest rooms is entirely distinct;
you might find yourself in bed beneath a
Renaissance-style mural or in a blue-and-
peach-spattered bathroom. A huge cast of
Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker awaits guests in
the striking lobby. There are two restaurants
here: casual I Dodici Gatti, serving wood-fired
pizzas, and more upmarket Vik Pellico Otto,
whose menu blends European and South
American influences.
R O O M S : From €386 (£324), B&B.
galleriavikmilano.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 61
SLEEP

Best for maximalists

£ N H OW M I L A N O
Loud colours and rotating artworks:
maximalism is in at Nhow Milano. Located
in the city’s design district, the hotel is
moments away from the Museum of Cultures
and Armani/Silos exhibition space — but
it features plenty of quirky design nods
within its own walls, too. Its 246 rooms, some
of which are pet-friendly, are all themed
differently, but oranges, purples, yellows
and pinks prevail in the colour schemes.
Its rooftop bar, Vertigo, is open to guests and
the public and features a 90ft-long infinity
pool (one of the few properly swimmable
rooftop pools in the city) alongside two
smaller, circular ones. Grab an amaretto
colada, starring Italy’s classic almond-
flavoured liqueur, recline on a magenta
beanbag and enjoy the panoramic views.
R O O M S : From €147 (£123). nh-hotels.com

Best for the cool crowd

£ £ AETHOS
Aethos is Milan’s answer to a youthful
member’s club. Located in buzzy Navigli,
it has a co-working space with regular
events, daily yoga classes and Zaia, a chic
Mediterranean restaurant with a deftly
curated menu. The crowning glory, however,
is The Doping Bar, its name a nod to the
sports theme that runs throughout the hotel A suite at Aethos
— including its 32 bedrooms, which are filled Clockwise from above: Maritozzi pastries with
with trinkets related to disciplines such beef tartare and caviar, truffle club sandwiches
and tuna sashimi at Palazzo Cordusio Gran Meliá’s
as cricket, tennis and racing. After dinner,
cocktail bar, Giardino Cordusio; the rooftop at
this 1920s-themed speakeasy is the perfect
Nhow Milano; drinks at Vertigo, Nhow Milano’s bar
place to end the evening, with board games
or cocktails amid surfboards, mannequins,
flags and vintage lamps. The drinks menu
riffs on classic concoctions, and you might
find popcorn, shiitake and peanut butter
swirling atop your glass.
R O O M S : From €207 (£174). aethos.com

Best for rooftop views

£ £ £ PA L A Z ZO C O R D U S I O
GR AN MELIÁ
Spring, summer and much of autumn bring a
solid chance of blue skies in Milan — and on
those clear days, Palazzo Cordusio Gran Meliá
offers the best view in town. When the sun
dips behind the Duomo, Italy’s largest church,
and the sky fades from blue to pink, the hotel’s
fifth-floor rooftop cocktail bar and restaurant,
Isola, offers a front-row seat — best enjoyed
with a glass of sparkling Franciacorta in hand.
It’s well worth splurging on a room with a
Duomo view if you can, too. The palazzo is the
former Milanese headquarters of the Italian
Stock Exchange, and its rooms — a mix of
dark wood-panelling and bright, white linens
— are suitably spacious.
R O O M S : From €721 (£605). melia.com

62 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: PALAZZO CORDUSIO, A GRAN MELIÁ HOTEL; NHOW MILANO; PION STUDIO
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 SLEEP

Best for spa-seekers

£ £ £ PA L A Z ZO PA R I G I
Paris meets Milan at this 17th-century
architectural gem in Brera, a neighbourhood
with cobbled streets, aperitivo bars and
boutique stores. Rooms are either decorated
in the more contemporary Milanese style,
with light colours and natural woods, or with
a traditional French flair seen in antique
furniture and gilded vases. The tempo changes
at the spa, which takes its influences from
across the globe. Try a full-body Moroccan
ghassoul clay mask in the hammam suite or a
deep tissue Swedish massage amid minimalist
wood-panelled interiors.
R O O M S : From €1,017 (£854). palazzoparigi.com

Best for city escapees Best for families Best for stylish
£ G R A N D H OT E L V I L L A £ £ M AT I L D E B O U T I Q U E H OT E L functionality
TO R R E T TA M I L A N S E S TO This hotel is set between the balsamic vinegar £ £ H OT E L V I U M I L A N
Once the 17th-century summer home for a Milanese shops, gelaterias and food delis of the city centre. At the edge of Chinatown, and minutes from the
IMAGE: PALAZZO PARIGI HOTEL & GRAND SPA

countess, this hotel opened under the Curio Collection You can’t get much closer to the Duomo and the Cimitero Monumentale (a graveyard renowned for its
by Hilton brand in 2018. Its 77 rooms and suites are a Royal Palace of Milan, making this a handy option for ornate Italian and Greek sculptures and tombs), this
mix of contemporary spaces and opulent celebrations those with little ones in tow. Each of the 25 well-sized hotel wins over business travellers with its functional
of history; some include restored frescoes and rooms is clad in green velvet and black-and-white design. Rooms feature walnut panelling and earthy
original fireplaces. Located in Parco Nord, one of gingham, and comes with a sofa to up the comfort tones, while wisteria and ivy cloak the glass exterior in
Milan’s biggest public green spaces, the hotel is factor for families. Breakfast is served on the top a nod to Bosco Verticale, the city’s iconic apartment-
less than a half-hour metro ride or taxi from the city floor of Ristorante Granaio, situated beneath the complex-turned-vertical-forest, a 15-minute walk
proper. Borrow one of its free bikes and tour the local hotel, and includes a buffet with Sicilian cannoli from away. There’s plenty to enjoy here, too — the eighth-
landmarks, including the Pirelli HangarBicocca gallery, the restaurant’s standalone bakeries. floor rooftop, where breakfast and evening drinks are
or catch an opera at Teatro Arcimboldi. R O O M S : From €300 (£252), B&B. served, has a pool with scenic views.
R O O M S : From €111 (£93). hilton.com matildeboutiquehotel.it R O O M S : From €225 (£189). hotelviumilan.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 65
SLEEP

Cityscape views from the rooftop

bar of 21 House of Stories Navigli
Below: Living room in a Bulgari
Hotel Milano suite

Best for night owls

£ 2 1 H O U S E O F S TO R I E S
N AV I G L I
Sweetie jars in the lobby? Check. Bedroom
swing? Check. Furniture in every shape and
colour? You got it. Fun is the name of the game
at 21 House of Stories’ outpost in Navigli. Indoor
and outdoor co-working spaces, a mezzanine-
level restaurant and a rooftop cocktail bar make
this a hit among the area’s young visitors, who
flood the bars and trattorias lining the canals.
It’s a great option for an aperitivo, and tempting
extras — like the complimentary mini-bar on
your first night — help sweeten the deal.
R O O M S : From €218 (£182), B&B.
21houseofstories.com
IMAGES: 21 HOUSE OF STORIES NAVIGLI; BULGARI HOTEL MILANO

Best for a splurge

£ £ £ B U LGA R I H OT E L M I L A N O
Bulgari’s inaugural hotel turns 21 this year but,
like the best of the style set, refuses to show
its age. If you want uncompromising luxury,
there’s still nowhere better in town. It’s the
only hotel within the city walls with a garden
and the rooms run from spacious to huge.
While the decor is unfussy, every detail has
been considered — you’re even provided with
lens cleaner and a polish cloth to wipe down
oversized sunnies. There’s a pool, a spa and a
hair salon for those in need of pampering.
R O O M S : From €1,220 (£1,024).
bulgarihotels.com

66 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Bullet trains, pagoda bells, steaming bowls of ramen,
cherry blossoms — Japan has many icons, which has made it
an incredibly popular travel destination. But with fame comes
crowds, and there are still many treasures to be uncovered in
lesser-known corners of this East Asian archipelago. Here, we look at
some of the alternatives, from slow scenic trains and lesser-trodden
pilgrimage hikes to street-food city crawls and geisha houses in
unexpected places. Why rely on the old classics when you can strike
out in search of new ones?
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

68 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 69
 JA PA N

Left: A pilgrim hiking the

Shikoku Henro, a sacred island
trail covering around 750 miles
Previous pages: Japan’s spirituality
is a point of fascination for travellers,
who come to tour temples like
Seidai-ji in Katsuyama, where
1,281 Buddhas line the walls

HIKING

SPIRITUALITY IN MOTION
Pilgrimages have been part of Japanese culture for over a thousand years. The UNESCO-listed Kumano Kodo
is legendary among hikers, but on Shikoku there’s another sacred trail that remains quiet. Words: Oliver Berry

The morning trade at Ryozen-ji temple is always brisk. The father of the trail
It’s just after nine and pilgrims are stocking up on essential Sunlight flickers over the path as I trudge uphill, tuning
items: wooden staffs, conical sedge hats, guidebooks, brass into the stillness and quiet of the forest. Cedars rise like
bells, zodiac charms, white oizuru tunics. Many are queuing pillars along the trail. The reedy chitter of cicadas fills
for their first temple stamp, watching the artist frank their the air. Bamboo staves clunk together like wind-chimes.
books in crimson ink and hand-painted kanji letters. It feels like stepping into a meditation video. After a while,
Outside, the scent of sandalwood fills the courtyard I hear running water: it’s a spring guarded by a Jizo, a stone
as people light candles and burn incense sticks — three statue dedicated to children and travellers, wearing a
each, representing their past, present and future — before protective pink shroud and knitted beanie. As is custom,
depositing prayer slips and reciting sutras outside the I douse his head for luck, then move onwards.
shrine. The drone of chanting fills the quadrangle, The most recognisable figure along the Shikoku Henro
punctuated by the tinkle of coin offerings and the is Kukai, or Kobo Daishi, the founder of esoteric Shingon
occasional clang of the temple’s bell. It’s busy, but at the Buddhism, one of several versions of Buddhism practiced
same time, peaceful. For a thousand years, this has been in Japan. He was born in 774, in the grounds of Zentsu-ji
the way on the Shikoku Henro. — Temple 75. Pilgrimage was a key part of his practice
There are many pilgrims’ roads in Japan, but the Henro and it’s said he established the Shikoku Henro during his
is among the oldest and, at 750 miles, the longest. The trail own quest for enlightenment. For today’s pilgrims, he has
circumnavigates Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four become a walking buddy, personal trainer and guru in one.
main islands: mountainous, forested and ringed by rugged Statues of him appear everywhere: resting by fountains,
coast, it’s also the least visited by tourists. To complete shaded by wisteria, hidden in shrines. Even the wooden
the trail, pilgrims, or o-henro-san, must visit 88 temples kongo-zue staffs pilgrims carry are branded Dogyo-Ninin
around the island. Number 1, where I am this morning, (‘We two pilgrims together’), symbolising Kukai’s constant
is Ryozen-ji, close to the eastern city of Tokushima, while companionship along their journey.
Number 88, Okubo-ji, is near Takamatsu on the north Under a sprawling camphor tree, I meet Adachi Shinobu,
coast. En route, pilgrims are said to transition through a three-time Henro veteran. Previous circuits were made
four stages on their spiritual journey: awakening, training, with her partner and her dogs named — fittingly — Ku and
enlightenment and, finally, nirvana. Kai. “Kukai is my hero,” she says. “Sometimes pilgrimage
Every o-henro-san has their own reasons for undertaking can be lonely. Sometimes it is confusing. Sometimes you
this pilgrimage. Many are marking a significant moment in get lost. But Kukai is always there to show the way.”
life: a change of jobs, childbirth, an illness or a milestone Just like life, pilgrimage contains ups, downs,
age. Others seek inner peace or spiritual guidance. The unexpected meetings, lessons and hardships. When it
rules are surprisingly flexible: you can tick off the temples gets tough, there’s only one answer: keep on going. That’s
in any order, in one epic trek, or spread over years, a handy mantra for the Henro: while some of it follows
collecting stamps as proof of each visit. My own mini- main roads, other sections veer up mountainsides,
pilgrimage will carry me as far as Temple 21, Tairyu-ji circle headlands, disappear down rivers or plunge into
— a journey of four days and 30 miles — but to hike the valleys. Knotted roots and tangled vines lie in wait for
IMAGE: ALAMY

whole Henro takes 40 to 50 days. That’s if you walk at unsuspecting boots. Spider webs festoon the trail at
all, of course: many modern pilgrims don’t, touring it face height. Most challenging of all are the staircases
instead by car, minibus, coach or bicycle. The method isn’t known, ominously, as henro-korogashi (literally, ‘pilgrim
important, I’m told. The journey is what matters. tumblers’). It doesn’t take long to find out why.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 71
 Temple tales has their own reasons. And everyone learns something
These days, the few o-henro-san that choose to hike the different from the experience,” he adds, gnomically.
trail on foot either camp or stay at ryokan (inns), but a Later that evening, he invites me to a ceremony to
century ago, many temples offered shukubo (pilgrims’ honour our ancestors. Silently, we pad into the maze of
lodgings). Only a handful remain now. One of them is at inner sanctums, sitting cross-legged in the prayer hall as
Anraku-ji (Temple 6), the Temple of Everlasting Joy, which Hatakeda-san chants the blessing, bookended by the clang
I reach, hot and tired, at the end of my first day. It’s typical of a brass gong. We scribble the names of lost loved ones
of the temples on the Shikoku Henro. An imposing wooden on parchment slips, then watch them float in candle-lit
gate leads into the inner courtyard, filled with clipped baskets down the temple’s sacred stream — symbolic of our
trees, gravel gardens, ponds, fountains and a small pagoda. messages being carried into the afterlife. It’s a centuries-
Further in are the two main shrines — one for the guardian old ritual and a surprisingly moving one. Another custom
deity, one for Kukai — and temple buildings. The lodgings that endures on the Shikoku Henro is o-settai, the giving of
are deliberately simple. Rooms are bare save for a wooden alms to pilgrims. Several times, I’m stopped by passers-by,
table and futon mattress. Meals are served communally who press sweets, snacks, bottles of pop or chocolate bars
in the dining hall, and there’s a hot onsen bath where into my hand, but refuse payment, topping up their own
pilgrims can soothe tired limbs. karmic bank balance instead.
After my ablutions, I meet Anraku-ji’s head monk, Often, the pilgrimage feels like a journey into Japan’s
Hatakeda Yuho, over afternoon tea and rice crackers. past. The oldest temples date from the 1600s, the product
He wears the everyday uniform of a Shingon monk of years of painstaking craftsmanship, but their names
— white under-robes, black over-robes and orange rakusu, — Hovering Clouds Temple, Golden Spring Temple,
a patchwork panel signifying his ordination. His family Medicine King Temple — are straight out of myth. Each
has served here for four generations, he tells me, and he has its own panoply of legends, commemorated in strange
feels proud that Anraku-ji still offers pilgrims the chance deities and carvings of dragons, serpents, elephants
to experience life inside a working temple. and cranes. Many tales concern Kukai’s exploits: a feast
“People come to Shikoku to find new paths,” he says. magicked from a single fish; a deathly curse placed on a
IMAGES: ALAMY

“On a pilgrimage, you step away from the day-to-day to selfish miser; a holy spring created with a strike of his staff.
clear your mind and refresh your thinking.” He sips his My favourite is from Shosan-ji — Temple 12, the Burning
tea thoughtfully. For him, the power of the Henro is the Mountain Temple — which I reach at the end of day three.
opportunity to follow in Kukai’s footsteps. “But everyone It’s one of the most atmospheric of all the 88 temples.

72 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 JA PA N

A winding walkway lined by Buddhas and Bodhisattvas — bow, cleanse hands, sound the gong, mutter a prayer
leads to the gate, while in the inner courtyard cedars — then venture inside. Dragons materialise: carved under
look like the columns of a Tolkienesque cathedral, their eaves, sculpted in bronzes, looming under shrine ceilings.
trunks dissolving upwards into mist. Here, it is said, Kukai At the office, the attendant stamps my book — a dragon,
encountered a fire-belching dragon that laid waste to the of course, snaking through flowing kanji. I buy a golden
surrounding forests. He banished it into the mountain dragon amulet and pin it to my backpack, then head for the
where it still sleeps but, from time to time, it wakes up shrines to light my last three incense sticks.
— causing the earthquakes to which Shikoku, like much Here, I meet Kuse Naoki, a silver-haired pilgrim in
of Japan, is so prone. his 70s. “A decade ago, I was diagnosed with cancer and
given five years to live,” he says. “I’m still here. For that,
Songs from the mountain I am filled with gratitude.” He attributes his survival to
On my final day, I arrive early at Kakurin-ji — Temple 20, his training as a yamabushi, an ascetic mountain monk
the Crane Forest Temple — descending another pilgrim- who seeks enlightenment through physical exertion and
tumbler into a cool valley, shaded by trees. A woman immersion in nature. He turns to reveal the back of his
from the nearby village is harvesting peaches, apples and white oizuru tunic, emblazoned with red stamps from
sudachi, a lime-like citrus fruit. She offers me some for every temple he has visited. The white signifies spiritual
refreshment. The peaches are sweet, the sudachi bracingly purity, he says; one day, he will be buried in it. Around his
sour. Of course, she refuses payment. “O-settai,” she says. neck, he carries a conch shell, which he says is to dispel evil
From here, it’s a punishing, switchback climb to spirits and honour the temple deities. He lifts it to his lips
journey’s end: Tairyu-ji, the Great Dragon Temple, where and blows. Eerie, ululating notes swirl around the temple
Kukai meditated for 50 days, guarded by the temple’s walls, rising, falling, booming, fading on the breeze.
namesake dragon. Officially, it is a nansho, or ‘difficult To me, it sounds like a dragon’s call — and like so many
place’: marooned on a mountaintop at 1,500ft, reached via things on the Henro, an echo from another time.
a seemingly never-ending staircase that saps the legs and
the spirit in equal measure. For more indolent pilgrims, H OW T O D O I T: Walk Japan’s five-night, self-guided Shikoku
a cable-car conveniently buzzes to the top. Wayfarer tour costs from ¥174,000 (£885) per person, including
By the time I reach the summit, it’s early afternoon. accommodation, breakfast and dinner. Tokushima can be reached
Fog is rolling over the mountain, casting everything in via regular domestic flights with Japan Airlines from Tokyo Haneda,
a soft, grey light. At the gate, I perform my usual ritual one of the Japanese capital’s two airports. walkjapan.com jal.co.jp

A pilgrim walking through

the forest to Yokomine-ji
— Temple 60 on the Shikoku
Henro pilgrimage circuit
From far left: The main hall at
Okubo-Ji, the final temple and
end of the pilgrimage; origami
offerings are left at trail temples

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 73
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 JA PA N

One of Japan’s most

spectacular train routes,
the Gono Line, in winter

T R A I N T R AV E L

WINDOWS ONTO THE WORLD

Slow and scenic, these train routes offer a very different experience to Japan’s ultra-fast Shinkansen trains.
Sleep on board, sample a bento lunch and jump off as the mood takes, to see the country in a new light

1 SUNRISE IZUMO
One of Japan’s last regular sleeper
2 NAGARAGAWA RAILWAY
Following the course of the Nagara
3 GONO LINE
Linking northern Honshu’s Akita and
trains follows a route linking Tokyo with the River, this train immerses you in the pastoral Aomori prefectures, the Gono Line is one of
coastal town of Izumo in southwestern landscapes of central Honshu, complete Japan’s most spectacular train rides. Much of
Honshu. Drift off in Tokyo after the 9.50pm with fruit orchards, riverside rice paddies it hugs the craggy coast, looking out over the
departure, and you’ll wake up amid the and timewarped villages. The best train to sea to one side and the holy Shirakami Sanchi
shimmering green rice fields of western catch is the Nagara sightseeing departure, mountains to the other. One of the stations
Japan, if travelling in summer, or its white- on which you’ll be treated to a seasonal — Todoroki, with its rustic wood hut sitting
cloaked mountains in winter. By the time meal — perhaps featuring grilled local ayu serenely above the beach — has become an
you reach Izumo, around 10am, you’ll be sweetfish in summer, or persimmons and iconic sight. Views to look out for include Mount
refreshed and ready to explore the town’s roasted chestnuts in autumn. It also pauses in Iwaki, framed by orchards between Kawabe and
ancient Shinto shrine, Izumo Taisha, and picturesque spots, with views of the valley or Fujisaki; the ‘1,000 tatami mats’ of tiered rock
the surrounding beaches, gorges and sea- red bridges spanning the river. Buy a one-day at Senjojiki; and grand coastal scenes between
lashed lighthouses. Competition for berths pass and you can hop on and off as you please; Iwadate and Omagoshi stations. Try to get a
is fierce — when tickets go on sale a month the journey takes about two hours from end ticket for the Resort Shirakami train, which
before departure, the most popular spots sell to end. With this pass you can also explore sometimes plies the route, showcasing Tohoku
out in minutes. Each sleeping berth has huge the craft towns en route. Gujo-Hachiman is culture with ekiben (train lunchboxes), packed
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

windows that curve slightly over the top of the known for aizome (indigo dyeing) and plastic with local specialities like Aomori’s apple pies
upper bunks. Even the cheapest, ‘nobi nobi’ food models; Mino for its handmade mino or Akita’s kiritanpo (glazed grilled rice cakes),
tickets — where you sleep on the floor and washi paper; and Seki for the 26th-generation and entertainment such as fast-paced tsugaru
supply your own pillow — come with the same metalsmiths who still forge samurai-style shamisen performances or folk tales told in the
expansive views. jr-odekake.net blades and chef’s knives. nagatetsu.co.jp local dialect. jreast.co.jp R E B E C C A H A L L E T T

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 75
JA PA N

Clockwise from top left:

Kikuno-san runs Nara’s last
geisha house; dusk at Ukimido
Pavilion in Nara Park; deer
have been grazing on Nara’s
parkland for centuries;
cherry blossoms on Mount
Yoshinoyama outside Nara

H E R I TA G E & T R A D I T I O N S

PEERING BEHIND THE CURTAIN

Meet the mistress of Nara’s last geisha house — a remarkable woman who’s on a mission to keep
this complex tradition alive in her ancient city, a former capital of Japan. Words: Rebecca Hallett

Most visitors to Nara come for the sacred deer. They’ve Osaka-born Kikuno-san tells me she began her training
been here for at least a thousand years, grazing on the here at Tsuruya when she was 15. “My aunt encouraged
city’s parkland, protected around the huge temples that me — she ran Tsuruya then,” she explains, her voice low
trace the city’s illustrious past as the capital of Japan in the and soothing. “I learned the 15 disciplines — tea ceremony,
eighth century. But even with the day-tripping crowds, its calligraphy, shamisen [a three-stringed instrument], dance
popularity is nothing compared to that of Kyoto, the nearby and so on. Three years later, in 1990, I debuted as a maiko.”
city that succeeded Nara as capital in 794. It took her another six years to become a geisha and then
Only a few other people are strolling the path I’m following she took over Tsuruya in 2007.
around Sarusawa Pond. Most are here to take photos of As Kikuno-san’s career progressed, she says she saw
Kofuku-ji temple’s octagonal hall and five-storey pagoda, geishas in Nara and beyond retiring — and not enough
which poke over the trees that frame the city. The maples are girls joining the profession. It’s something of an irony that
already a deep red, the willow leaves trailing in the water a in the nearby city of Kyoto, where geishas remain part of
pale yellow, but the air still has the humid heat of summer. It the living culture, the tradition draws so much interest that
doesn’t take long to find the door I’m looking for — marked the city has had to impose restrictions to curb disruptive
by tasselled red lanterns with the word ‘Ganrin-in’ written on overtourism — yet here, Kikuno-san struggles to find
them in kanji (Chinese characters used in Japanese writing). trainees. “So few girls are interested in becoming maiko
Another lantern bears the name ‘Tsuruya’. now,” she says. “So I’m trying new approaches.”
Ganrin-in was once Nara’s busy geisha district, but today Traditionally, teenage girls would move into an okiya
Tsuruya is the only geisha house left in the city. I’ve come (geisha house), which would cover living expenses, training
to meet its last mistress, to find out how she’s trying to keep costs and materials. Then, when they started earning, they’d
the tradition alive. At the height of Nara’s popularity in the slowly pay off this debt — effectively binding them to their
early 20th century, around 200 geishas and maiko (geishas okiya for years. Kikuno-san’s innovations include funding
in training) lived and worked here. In the decades since, their training — for at least a year — which can be part-time,
numbers have dwindled — a pattern seen throughout allowing them to live and work elsewhere. As a result, their
Japan as young women have sought more flexible work, ties to Tsuruya are about passion, not financial obligation.
and forms of entertainment considered more modern, She also pays them a salary once they start, rather than
fashionable and affordable have taken over. basing their pay on how many engagements they get. “We’ve
When I ring the buzzer, the wooden door slides open created a new term for these trainees: ‘kotoka’,” she explains.
IMAGES: REBECCA HALLETT; AWL IMAGES; GETTY

and a small hand gently pushes aside the yellow curtain to Kikuno-san gestures to a spot above a doorway where
reveal the smiling face of Kikuno-san, the geisha who runs slips of paper hang, each bearing the name of a member of
Tsuruya. Wearing a pale-blue silk kimono and pristine Tsuruya. On the left is Kikuno. Next to it is Yoshiki, a dance
white tabi socks, she bows and beckons me inside. She specialist who debuted as a geisha in 2023 but mostly works
leads me through to Tsuruya’s main room, a warmly lit as an actor, living elsewhere and occasionally coming to
space with sliding shoji screens and a long, low table with Tsuruya for events — “a two-sword lifestyle”, Kikuno-san
floor seating. She pours me a dainty cup of oolong tea, its muses. The next three are her kotoka: Kikyo, who also works
smoky aroma mingling with the fresh, grassy scent of the as a social worker and influencer; and Maki and Saki, who
tatami-mat flooring. Her every movement seems like part have become TV personalities.
of a dance, from the delicate placement of her finger atop The kotoka approach allows trainees to earn income
the pot as she pours, to her lowered gaze and slight head elsewhere or pursue higher education while they assess
tilt as she listens to me talk. whether this is the career for them. But it comes with its

76 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA PA N

own challenges; trainees are not as immersed in the geisha offered to perform a dance for me, but with no shamisen to
world and more freely able to leave it. “In all honesty, I’d accompany her, Bluetooth will have to suffice.
like to keep training them in a more traditional way,” Kikuno-san kneels on the tatami, bowing her head
Kikuno-san admits, “albeit without leaving them in debt at over a white fan, and as the haunting opening notes of a
such a young age. But the most important thing is showing traditional kouta song begin to play, she starts to dance.
that Japanese traditional arts are a viable career option.” Each movement flows into the next, the geisha’s hand
Her own passion is unquestionable. In 2014, Kikuno- delicately turning or sweeping up her kimono sleeve just
san established the Hana Akari, an event she self-funds so, the fan making gentle arcs and sudden slices through
each April that offers a rare opportunity to see geishas the air. Practised and precise, it’s a mesmerising display.
from across Japan showcasing their talents. “I make sure When it’s time for me to go, Kikuno-san is keen to share
there are always some late-availability tickets at the tourist her recommendations for touring the city. “Nara has
office,” she explains, calmly pouring more tea. “I want as such clear air, so the sunsets are beautiful — especially
many people as possible to see our artistry.” from Nigatsu-do, as it’s on a hill,” she says. Later that day,
Kikuno-san also shares her artistry on a smaller stage, at I follow her advice, making my way through the park and
the sort of individual and small-group events that make up up a winding path to the eighth-century temple, a wooden
a geisha’s typical day. These might include a tea ceremony building with a sweeping tiled roof located next to a forest.
at a hotel, a two-hour dinner and a performance at a ryotei The crowds have thinned out and the lamps are being lit
(traditional high-end restaurant) or a meal with music and along the wide veranda. As I watch the rosy glow of sunset
drinking games here at Tsuruya. Kikuno-san is keen to wash over Nara, I think back to Kikuno-san’s response when
make them as accessible as possible, eschewing traditional I asked her what it meant to her to be a geisha here in this
complexities such as those wanting an audience with a city. She’d paused for a long time, finally saying: “I think… I
geisha requiring a referral from one of her existing clients. was born to come here.” It’s hard to disagree. Nara’s geisha
With accessibility being so important to Kikuno-san, she are as much a part of the fabric of this historic town as its
also maintains an active online presence. As well as her temples and wooden houses. And now Kikuno-san is the
Instagram account and the Tsuruya website, Kikuno-san custodian of that living culture — until she finds the next
runs Hana Akari YouTube and Facebook pages, and engages person to carry the torch of Ganrin-in.
with global media. She’s appeared in everything from the
New York Post — she once took the Hana Akari to New York H OW T O D O I T: Nara is around 45 minutes from Kyoto by train.
City, even riding the subway in full kimono and make-up A three-day bespoke trip to Nara for two people with tour operator
— to the BBC series Japan with Sue Perkins. Luxurique costs from ¥1,280,000 (£6,485). This includes transfers,
Unsurprisingly, Kikuno-san has a well-used phone. five-star accommodation, a guide and the Kikuno-san experience,
She pulls it gracefully from her kimono sleeve — she’s but not flights. @kikuno1118 tsuruya.my.canva.site luxurique.com

IMAGES: ALAMY; AWL IMAGES

Geishas making their

way along Pontocho,
a narrow alley in Nara
Right: The 16th century
Matsumoto Castle was in
use until the 19th century

78 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
FOUR MORE

TRADITIONAL CITIES TO RIVAL KYOTO

Across Japan there are dozens of ancient cities and towns to explore, with former samurai strongholds,
wooden heritage shops and sake and beer breweries sitting alongside art galleries and quirky museums

1 KURASHIKI
With cobbled streets
2 KANAZAWA
Ishikawa’s prefectural
3 HIRAIZUMI
In the 12th century,
4 MATSUMOTO
This city in central
centred around a willow-lined capital is often called ‘Little the Tohoku town of Hiraizumi Honshu enjoys a spectacular
canal, the historical quarter of Kyoto’, thanks to its geisha rivalled Kyoto in terms of setting, with the Japan Alps
Bikan in Kurashiki is one of the districts, temples and gardens. splendour and power. Today, looming above it. The black keep
prettiest in Japan. It’s on the But its appeal extends to a it’s one of the best places to see of Matsumoto Castle, set against a
Seto Inland Sea coast; travellers samurai district plus museums temples from the era and runs backdrop of white-topped peaks,
can drift along the canal on and galleries, including the interesting historical events. is an iconic image of Japan.
a traditional wooden boat, or 21st Century Museum of Motsuji Temple is a highlight: But travellers can also admire
admire the wooden machiya Contemporary Art. Kanazawa also it hosts a poetry festival with woodblock prints at the Japan
(townhouses) and converted white produces about 98% of Japan’s period costume in May; stages Ukiyo-e Museum and explore the
kura (storehouses). Japan’s jeans gold leaf, which crops up in crafts, tea ceremonies amid the temple independent shops, restaurants
industry also started in this area hotel decor and even snacks. garden’s 30,000-odd iris blooms and craft beer brewery set in the
and denim shops are a speciality of TO P T I P : Head to D T Suzuki in June; and hosts gagaku court former storehouses of the central
the city, along with cute cafes and Museum, named after and musicians as the bush clover Nakamachi district.
cosy izakaya bars. dedicated to the much-revered blossoms in September. TO P T I P : Matsumoto has some
TO P T I P : Look out for Bizen 20th-century Buddhist TO P T I P : Hiraizumi is easy to get charming small museums. Don’t
ware, a traditional local pottery philosopher. Highlights are the around on two wheels; you can miss the Matsumoto Timepiece
style that originated in the 14th minimalist architecture and the hire bikes and e-bikes right by the Museum and the Matsumoto Folk
century, still sold all over the city. peaceful Water Mirror Garden. train station. Craft Museum. R H

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A JA PA N E S E I C O N

THE OTHER SIDE OF MOUNT FUJI

There are many alternative ways to experience central Japan’s sacred peak without the crowds,
from hiking its sister summits to touring vineyards on the mountain’s slopes. Words: Oliver Berry

“If Fuji-san is wearing his hat,” says canoe guide Shinji holy mountain. Specifically, I’m in the Fuji Five Lakes, two
Toizumi, as we paddle out across Lake Kawaguchi, “it hours’ drive from Tokyo, an area popular with city-dwellers
means rain is on the way.” He points to the distant outline in search of nature. “Glamping is very trendy in Japan,”
of Mount Fuji, silhouetted against the rose-pink sky. Sure says Keiji Sato, who’s travelled up from Tokyo for a weekend
enough, a disc of cloud is drifting around its summit. It’s so under canvas with her boyfriend. “It’s good to spend time
common, Toi says, it even has a name here: kasakumo, the outside and escape the noise of the city.” Sheltered from
umbrella cloud. the drizzle by pine trees, I’ve spent the afternoon trying
In his tinted shades, checked shirt and feather-fringed archery, chopping firewood, balancing on a slack-line and
hat, Toi looks like Japan’s answer to Indiana Jones, and I’m boiling myself in a barrel sauna. Now I’m bedding down in
inclined to trust his forecasting skills. He goes on to tell a bubble-shaped tent called a pao. As night falls, I barbecue
me that he used to be a florist, but his second passion has my supper over smouldering coals and sip a homemade
always been canoeing. We drift into the lee of a wooded cocktail, chilled with ice made with Fuji-filtered water.
island, where he sets out camping chairs and brews a pot of
coffee. As the rising sun turns Fuji’s slopes red, we sip from Fertile slopes
enamel mugs, then paddle back to the mainland. True to If you mention Yamanashi to most Japanese people,
Toi’s prediction, drizzle begins to fall. An hour later, the however, they’ll probably hand you a corkscrew. The
mountain has vanished from view. sheltered, gently sloping foothills around Mount Fuji
Every year, around 220,000 people come to climb Mount provide the perfect volcanic terroir for wine-growing. The
Fuji, mostly packed into three hectic months between June next day, I take a road-trip past riverside villages and rice
and August when favourable weather conditions allow terraces into a landscape more reminiscent of Tuscany than
for summits. Thousands more come just to get a quick Japan. Vines carpet the slopes, mostly growing the local
snap, take a selfie and hashtag the view. The mountain is a Koshu grapes, plump and purple as cherries. Traditionally,
deeply sacred site in Japan. Since 2013, it’s been a UNESCO the vines are trained over pergolas to ensure the grapes get
World Heritage Site — listed not just for its aesthetic plenty of sun; however, each bunch wears a dainty paper
beauty, but also its spiritual significance as the dwelling hat to stop sunburn and prevent any subsequent mould.
place of deities and nature spirits known as kami. However, At Haramo Wine, I meet Shintaro Furuya, whose family
in some places, the overcrowding has become so bad, has been making wine here for three generations. “Most
IMAGE: GETTY

councils have introduced climbing permits and erected people outside Japan don’t even know we make wine,” he
barriers to stop sightseers from blocking traffic. says. “That’s changing, but it’s a slow process.” Like most
So I’ve come north to Yamanashi Prefecture, on Fuji’s of Yamanashi’s vineyards, the winery is open for tastings.
northern flanks, to find a more tranquil side to Japan’s He uncorks his favourite white: it’s crisp, fruity and acidic,

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The view of Mount Fuji
from Lake Kawaguchi in
cherry blossom season

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 JA PA N

Wood-chopping at Villa Hanz’s

woodland glamping site
Left: Aokigahara Forest is said
to be home to countless ghosts

the perfect partner, he says, to sushi and salty, miso-based believed to stalk Aokigahara — partly due to the forest’s
broths. As I leave, he insists on giving me a bottle and a unwelcome reputation as a suicide spot — but it’s also an
bunch of grapes for the road. oasis for nature. Nihon kamoshika, a type of goat-antelope,
On the way back to Kawaguchi, I stop at Shunnoten, roam wild here, and sometimes hikers encounter elusive
one of Yamanashi’s top sake distilleries — so famous, it’s Japanese black bears.
mentioned in a haiku by feminist poet Yosano Akiko (1878- On the western fringes of the forest, beside the shores of
1942). For 230 years, it has fermented its sakes using rice Lake Motosu, I meet up with local hiking guide Shinobu
harvested from the surrounding hillsides. “The secret of Sato. “Everyone wants to climb Fuji,” he says. “I’ve done it
our sake is the mountain water,” says Nagasawa Ikuko. “It’s many times and it’s beautiful, but it’s too crowded.” Instead,
naturally filtered, which makes the taste clean and pure.” he suggests summiting one of its sister mountains. “Most
She pours me a selection from sweet to super dry, then people ignore them,” he says. “And the views are better.”
shows me around the distillery’s garden, filled with clipped There are dozens to choose from — his favourites
topiary and karesansui (a dry area of raked gravel dotted include Settogatake, Ryugatake and Mitsutoge — but he’s
with a few rocks). It’s as orderly as a Zen temple. brought me to Nakanokuratouge for a special reason, he
The next day, I e-bike across to Kawaguchi’s neighbour, says. We trek up the hillside in the early evening, stopping
Saiko. Crumpled hills rise along the skyline, a reminder occasionally to examine lichen, moss, lizards and tree
of the restless geological forces that rumble, unseen but frogs. After half an hour, we reach a clearing, and there,
omnipresent, under Fuji’s crust. Kayakers scull across the framed against the orange twilight, is Fuji’s conical profile.
lake and fishermen cast lines for trout. I borrow a standup It looks like one of Hokusai’s works: ringed by lake and
paddleboard and glide under Fuji’s looming shadow, then forest, streaked by reds, pinks, umbers and ochres, topped
plunge into the lake, which is fed by meltwater from the by a diamond-white kasakumo crown. Grinning, Shinobu
winter’s snowfall. It’s bracingly cold and crystal clear. pulls out a ¥1,000 note and holds it up: the illustrated
The most striking thing about Yamanashi is its image perfectly mirrors the one in front of us. He was right
greenness. Aokigahara Forest — also called Jukai, the — the views are better up here.
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; VILLA HANZ

Sea of Trees — sprawls for 12sq miles around Mount Fuji.

Parts of it may be a millennium old. It sprouted after Fuji’s H OW T O D O I T: Hourly JR Kanto buses run from Tokyo’s Shinjuku
last major eruption in 864 CE; beneath the forest floor lies Station, taking around two hours to reach Kawaguchi, or Japan Rail’s
petrified lava, hard as granite and black as coal. On a misty new direct express train service takes 70 minutes. Glamping prices
afternoon, I walk into the forest and find trees contorted at Villa Hanz start from ¥32,000 (£162) for a two-person pao, room
into weird, cartoonish forms as they compete for light, only. InsideJapan Tours can arrange bespoke itineraries including
like a still from a Tim Burton film. Deep caves burrow nights at Villa Hanz and activities around Fuji. yamanashi-kankou.jp
into the rock, some said to be bottomless. Ghosts are also jrbuskanto.co.jp jreast.co.jp gv-hanz.com insidejapantours.com

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FOOD & DRINK

48 HOURS IN FUKUOKA
Amid the baseball games, art galleries and temples, Kyushu island’s
largest city has a street food and nightlife culture comparable to Osaka’s

DAY 1 a match, head for the stalls set up outside

M O R N I N G : F I S H RO E & P O U R- OV E R S Fukuoka Dome that sell Hakata ramen and
Start your day with breakfast in Hakata, once local favourite motsu-nabe — a rich, fatty tripe
Fukuoka’s merchant quarter and still the city’s stew brightened by the addition of lots of fresh
heart, home to most of its major sights. Keep greens. The preferred drink at games is either
an eye out for the local speciality of mentaiko a lemon highball made with shochu, a popular
— a spicy, salty marinated pollock roe, served Japanese spirit distilled all over Kyushu,
by itself or mixed into an omelette. Fukuoka or beer served by cheery, brightly dressed
also has a thriving cafe scene; try flight- hawkers who run from seat to seat with 7kg
themed FUK Coffee, which is known for its kegs on their backs.
pour-over coffee using house-roasted beans,
and its sweet-bitter, creme caramel-style EVENING: RIVERSIDE STREET FOOD
puddings. fuk-coffee.com As night falls, the local yatai (street-food
After breakfast, delve into local crafts and stalls) begin to set up, with most concentrated
history at the Folk Museum before browsing beside the Nakasu River, around the Tenjin
IMAGES: PROVIDED BY FUKUOKA PREFECTURE TOURISM ASSOCIATION;

the nearby Kamikawabata-dori covered nishi-dori and Showa-dori intersection, or

arcade. With its home goods stores, reflexology along Watanabe-dori. There are over 100 in
clinics and snack counters, it’s a great place total, serving hearty, unpretentious meals;
PHOTOGRAPH PROVIDED BY FUKUOKA CITY; ALAMY; GETTY

to soak up local life. Stock up on crunchy, stallholders call out in welcome and, once
Clockwise from top left: mentaiko-flavoured menbei rice crackers you’ve chosen a venue, you’ll be seated on a
Fukuoka city skyline; before you emerge from the covered street near tiny stool, squeezed in with other customers as
fried Hitokuchi gyoza Kushida-jinja — Hakata’s principal shrine, you watch the food being prepared.
are a local speciality in with brightly painted carvings of the zodiac Look for the bubbling vats of oden (hotpot)
Fukuoka; a baguette animals inside the entrance gate. with fish cakes, eggs and daikon, or for
stuffed with mentai anywhere serving the local speciality of
— spicy cod roe; the
AFTERNOON: BASEBALL & HIGHBALLS hito-kuchi gyoza — small, crispy dumplings
intricately designed
Fukuoka is one of Japan’s best places to watch that can be eaten in one bite. Yatai Chusuke,
romon gate at the
baseball and the game-day atmosphere is a stall on Showa-dori, has some of the best,
Shinto shrine of Dazaifu
Tenmangu; yatai food unbeatable when the Fukuoka SoftBank made in front of you at such a startling speed
and drink stands set Hawks are playing — providing a great chance that it looks like a sleight-of-hand magic trick
up along the Nakasu to try crowd-pleasing fast food with locals. — from a thin sheet of dough to a hand-folded
River each day If you’re lucky enough to time your trip with dumpling in a matter of seconds.

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JA PA N

RUSSIA
C H I N A

Hokkaido
Sea
NORTH of
KOREA
Japan
JAPAN
SOUTH
KOREA Honshu
MT FUJI TOKYO
Kyoto
Fukuoka Nara

Kyushu Shikoku
East P A C I F I C
China
Sea O C E A N

Okinawa 200 miles

GETTING THERE & AROUND

You can fly directly to Japan from the
UK with British Airways, JAL and ANA,
with flights arriving at Tokyo Narita or
Tokyo Haneda airports. Several other
carriers offer flights with one stop.
ba.com jal.co.jp ana.co.jp
Average flight time: 13h40m.
Japan has an extensive rail network
and you can get to most places by
shinkansen (bullet train) or regular
train. Despite recent price hikes, the
Japan Rail Pass, or one of its regional
versions, can be very cost effective
Pork-rich Hakata ramen if you’re taking the bullet train more
is a speciality of Fukuoka than once or twice. Local buses plug
most of the gaps in the rail network.
Flights and ferries are the best options
for accessing outer islands or covering
especially long distances.
DAY 2 — it has extra-long noodles to symbolise
MORNING: TEMPLES & TEAHOUSES long-lasting success and is served in a lucky WHEN TO GO
It’s a 30-minute train ride from Fukuoka’s five-sided black bowl. en.ichiran.com From Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa
centre to the historic city of Dazaifu, which After lunch, take the train to the western in the south, Japan spans more than
is famous for its large, 10th-century Shinto part of Fukuoka for the pretty park of Ohori- 1,900 miles, so the weather varies
shrine. You approach it along a cobbled koen, once the grounds of the town’s 17th- dramatically from region to region.
street packed with places to grab breakfast. century castle. Walk to the hilltop castle ruins It’s best to avoid the major holidays
Try Yamaya Base near the station for warm, for a sweeping view over the cherry trees. Also such as Golden Week (late April to
crunchy baguettes filled with cheese and in the park is Fukuoka Art Museum, which early May) and Obon (mid-August)
mentaiko, or any of the several spots selling has an eclectic collection inside and a polka- throughout the country, as prices and
umegae (grilled rice cakes filled with red bean dotted Yayoi Kusama pumpkin outside. demand spike. The shoulder seasons
paste). This delicious local sweet is also served of spring and autumn are generally the
at the teahouse in the shrine’s plum grove, E V E N I N G : I Z A K AYA S P E C I A L I T I E S most temperate, with averages of 21-
IMAGE: PHOTOGRAPH PROVIDED BY FUKUOKA CITY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
along with freshly made matcha. yamaya.com Fukuoka’s many izakaya (Japanese-style bars 23C in May and October. Keep an eye
In the hills a short walk from the shrine that serve food) are even more of a local staple out for the cherry blossom and autumn
is Kyushu National Museum, where than the yatai. Near Hakata station, Hakataichi colour forecasts if visiting at these
archaeological finds are displayed in a modern is a great example, with friendly staff, a mix times — either to make a beeline for
building. Afterwards, head back to the station of Western-style and counter seating plus a the best blooms and loveliest leaves,
via Dazaifukan, a cultural centre where you tatami-matted area. Its menu features all the or so you can head in the opposite
can have a go at filling and grilling your own classics like gyoza and edamame, as well as direction to the crowds.
umegae. Email [email protected] local specialities. Try the creamy chicken stew
to book in advance. called mizu-take and goma-saba, a sashimi MORE INFO
made with mackerel and drizzled with a rich japan.travel
A F T E R N O O N : DA I Z A F U R A M E N sesame sauce. The house special is deep- japan-guide.com
One dish you can’t miss in Fukuoka is Hakata fried sweet gobo (burdock) served with spiced Rough Guide to Japan. £22.99
ramen, a steaming bowl of pork-rich broth and mayonnaise. hakataichi-fukuoka.com R H
chewy noodles. The city is the home of the HOW TO DO IT
popular Ichiran Ramen chain — known for its H OW TO D O I T: Fukuoka is connected to Tokyo Specialist tour operator Into Japan can
single-person booths, with wood panelling and Osaka by domestic flight or bullet trains. organise tailor-made itineraries mixing
and red leather stools. The stationside Dazaifu InsideJapan’s 13-night Kyushu Adventure includes classic destinations and alternatives
branch uses local Fukuoka ra-mugi, a variety time in Fukuoka, from £2,670 per person. Stay at The such as Kyushu and Shikoku, including
of wheat specifically grown for use in noodles, Blossom Hakata Premier hotel, from ¥36,180 (£185) geisha experiences, food tours, hiking
and serves only-in-Dazaifu ‘success ramen’ per night. insidejapantours.com jrk-hotels.co.jp and more. intojapan.co.uk

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88 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
O N A P R I VAT E G A M E R E S E R V E I N S O U T H A F R I C A’ S K WA Z U L U - N ATA L
P R O V I N C E , A N U N L I K E LY C R E AT U R E I S M A K I N G A T E N TAT I V E C O M E B A C K
— A N D V I S I T O R S A R E O F F E R E D A G L I M P S E I N T O T H E C O N S E R VAT I O N
E F F O R T S T O S AV E I T A N D O T H E R N AT I V E W I L D L I F E

W O R D S : A M A N D A C A N N I N G . P H O T O G R A P H S : J O N AT H A N G R E G S O N

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 89
SOUTH AFRICA

Consider for one moment the

unlikely existence of the pangolin.
The world’s only scaly mammal looks like an Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa’s
armadillo but has more in common genetically KwaZulu-Natal province. Owned by the
with a dog. It has no teeth, poor eyesight, and &Beyond travel company, Phinda (meaning
its tongue, attached to a point near its pelvis, ‘the return’ in Zulu) runs a unique pangolin
is longer than its body. It has four legs but reintroduction programme, taking animals
shuffles along on its back two. So peculiar is its rescued from poachers across Africa and
appearance, it has not one but two less-than- destined for the black market in Asia. It lifts
flattering nicknames: ‘walking pinecone’ and the veil on the project by allowing small
‘artichoke with a tail’. People of a certain age numbers of visitors to join researchers tracking
will note its resemblance to a Clanger. the animals once they’re settled — and I have
Appearing 85 million years ago — when the come with the specific hope of spotting one.
North American continent nudged against I get my first glimpse rather sooner than
Europe, and Antarctica had yet to break from anticipated. My base, &Beyond Forest Lodge,
Australia and make its journey south — the is in the north of the 115sq-mile reserve.
first of its kind shared the world with T-Rexes, Its elegant cabins are built around the trees
velociraptors and flying reptiles the size of in a thicket of tangled woodland, connected
fighter jets. It had been around for 15 million by sandy paths upon which long-lashed
years when the first primates swung from the nyala antelopes and human guests are
trees, and for more than 84 million years before constantly surprising one another. A wooden
a species resembling modern humankind library pavilion sits on a raised platform
came along. It survived several ice ages and the overlooking grassland where impalas graze
asteroid impact that wiped out the dinosaurs. in a state of perennial high alert. On a long
When it comes to clinging on in the face table in the middle of the room is a collection
of adversity, then, the pangolin is the OG. of paraphernalia that’d be the envy of
From left: The library pavilion at &Beyond
Which is just as well, given the new entry to any zoologist. Among the elephant teeth,
Forest Lodge has artefacts including old
its biography: it’s the world’s most heavily porcupine skulls and ammonites is a small
books and a brass pangolin; Clayton Meise
and Sabelo Buthelezi in the sand forest trafficked animal, with the continued existence brass sculpture of a scaly animal with a long
Previous pages: Guide Declan Porter of its eight species hanging in the balance. tail and a small head. My first pangolin.
surveying the landscape from Ntabankosi Working to ensure the mammal gets to Spotting the real thing is going to require
Lookout in Phinda Private Game Reserve amble through another few million years is more effort. I meet the reserve’s conservation

90 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 91
92 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 SOUTH AFRICA

manager, Dale Wepener, on the deck to learn The forest ends abruptly, as though
more about my chances. In beige shorts and someone has drawn a line and commanded it
shirt, and with the sort of handshake that advance no further, and we bump along into
could break bones, Dale tells me the plan is I’ll open grassland that stretches to the horizon
explore the reserve by 4WD and he’ll radio in beneath a heavily clouded sky. Establishing
if there are signs of pangolin activity. It’s by Phinda in 1991 by buying up disparate plots of
no means guaranteed. “The pangolins here land, &Beyond has worked with local tribes to
are all tagged but that doesn’t make them easy manage and extend it ever since. Its aim was
to find,” he says. “If they’re underground, you to restore an environment depleted by decades
won’t pick up the signal. And whether they’re of poor farming practice and gradually
above ground depends on the time of year and reintroduce long-gone native wildlife to it.
the weather. They’re very sensitive animals. “All this used to be sisal and pineapple farms,”
If they’re uncomfortable, they’ll just leave.” Clayton says, gesturing to the landscape.
Thankfully, Phinda is not short of other We don’t get far before finding a lioness by
distractions. As Dale heads back to work, the track. She observes us with an indifference
I climb into a Landcruiser behind ranger that borders on disdain, then gets up and
Clayton Meise and tracker Sabelo Buthelezi walks in front of the vehicle, leading us
and we head out. It’s late afternoon and the in a languid procession. “Look, her teats
forest has taken on a bewitching quality, filled are swollen,” says Clayton. “It means she’s
with the sweet fragrance of spiny gardenias, the lactating — she probably has cubs nearby.”
bubbling calls of kassina frogs and the R2D2- Rounding a corner, we spot a pride of four
like beeps and trills of eastern nicator birds. lions. The lioness becomes aware of them at
With his wire-framed glasses, safari shorts the exact moment they become aware of her,
and desert boots, binoculars or camera always and they stand statue-still, staring. “Oh, there
to hand, Clayton looks every inch the boy might be conflict now,” whispers Clayton.
scout, and he brims with youthful enthusiasm. The lioness turns and runs, and the
He has the uncanny ability to tackle a tricky spell is broken. The group lollops after her,
manoeuvre of the 4WD, pick up on the merest a menacing gang of heavies come to turf a
hint of wildlife and explain the reserve’s rival off their patch. They disappear into the
ecosystems all at once, with apparently undergrowth, their rumbling bellows a hint of
unwavering focus on each. He’s not long the drama occurring within. We turn off the
From left: A pride of lions in pursuit of
qualified as a ranger, having retrained after track to follow, and instantly come across a
a lioness who has strayed onto their
the pandemic, ditching his career in events leopard draped across the branch of a marula territory; tracker Menzi Dlamini has
planning. “I’ve always had a love for the bush,” tree. “Everything’s happening!” says Clayton worked at Phinda for 13 years; a guest
he tells me as we move on. “Now I combine my laughing. “I wonder what she thought when cabin built around the trees at the Forest
two loves — wildlife and photography.” all those lions came running past.” Lodge in the north of the reserve

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 93
It’s late afternoon and
the forest has a taken
on a bewitching quality,
filled with the sweet
fragrance of spiny
gardenias, the bubbling
calls of kassina frogs
and the beeps and trills
of eastern nicator birds

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SOUTH AFRICA

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SOUTH AFRICA

We find the pursuers lying down the road, We wander through a patch of woodland
panting heavily as dung beetles fizz overhead. as Clayton points out the tiniest evidence
“It looks like the lioness got away,” says of life — bite marks left by a porcupine in
Clayton, with some relief. “It would’ve been a torchwood tree; the roots of an epiphytic
the end of her and her cubs if they’d caught orchid dangling from the branches of a
her. She’ll almost certainly move her den now.” 1,500-year-old lebombo wattle. Fawn-coloured
Leaving them to recover, we trundle back as nyala jump silently away as we step over fallen
night falls. Out of the gloom, shapes appear like trees in a riot of crashing and cracking. Our
ghosts — a lone elephant in the grass, a white contribution to the sounds of the forest is
rhino and her calf, a herd of softly grunting rather less melodic than the calls of brown-
buffalo. An unseen foam-nest tree frog squeaks hooded kingfishers, emerald cuckoos and
like a malfunctioning robot as fireflies dance in African paradise flycatchers that surround us.
the dark and lightning flashes across the sky. Perhaps our time in this old landscape has
Clayton lets out a contented sigh. “This is going worked some magic, however. When we return
in the books as one memorable drive.” to the Landcruiser, Dale calls on the radio to
tell us his researcher is hopeful that one or two
Booty call pangolins may be active later that afternoon.
The first drive certainly set a high bar, but We slowly make our way to the southern part
one that the reserve seems happy to meet of the reserve to meet them. The plains and
every time we venture out. The sun has barely forests of the north are replaced by undulating
inched above the horizon the following hills swathed in tall grass and pockmarked
morning before we’ve encountered two lions with boulders, mountains rising beyond.
mating in the dawn light, tiny red firefinches We meet Dale and researcher Jessie Berndt
darting overhead, and met a pair of white near the reserve’s airstrip, a short stretch of
rhinos wallowing in a muddy pool, a hippo tarmac embellished by a herd of zebras, a
honking away somewhere in the distance. single rhino and a family of warthogs, who
By 8am, with the heat already making life stop grazing to watch us pass. Jessie, a PhD
uncomfortable, most sensible wildlife has student from the University of Pretoria who’s
found a shady spot to rest in. We follow their responsible for monitoring and collecting data
From left: The print of a lion’s paw left on
example and retreat to Phinda’s most unique on the reserve’s pangolins, has a telemetry
the track; Clayton Meise in the sand forest, a
habitat — the sand forest. Created millennia aerial in one hand, used to pick up signals
unique ecosystem in southern Africa; Booty
ago, when sinking sea levels left a landscape emitted from the animals’ tracking devices.
the pangolin is one of several successful
pangolin reintroductions in Phinda of sand dunes with just enough moisture to “The pangolin we’re going to try and see
Previous pages from left: A 50-year-old sustain plant life, there are only a few pockets is called Booty,” Jessie says as we set off in
female elephant; a lebombo wattle tree, of this ancient landscape remaining in Africa, the 4WD. “She came as a sub adult and has
which can live for 1,500 years a quarter of it found in Phinda. had a pup since, but we can’t tell if she was

96 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 97
 SOUTH AFRICA

And then, there she pregnant when she arrived. Of all the pangolin
species, we know most about the Temminck’s
We follow Booty at a distance for a short
while and then leave her to her day. Interaction
is: a low shuffling ground pangolin that we have here in Phinda, is kept to levels that work for the pangolins
shape with a long but we don’t know the gestation period, how — the research team is careful not to stress
often they mate or when the pups leave.” the animals or reveal too much to visitors by
tail, a tiny head and It soon becomes clear how little is known allowing them to follow them to their burrows.
shiny scales. The about pangolins full stop — it is an animal that When we emerge onto the road, it’s with a
guards its privacy with some skill. “We can’t sense of exhilaration at having met one of
pangolin waddles see any pattern why and when this pangolin the world’s oldest species, and with a forest’s
through a clearing, comes out of the burrow,” Jessie continues, worth of thorns embedded in our clothes.
leaning out of the vehicle and holding the
front paws in the aerial aloft. “When she’s out, there’s no pattern Around the horn
air, bumbling along to her behaviour either. It’s kind of crazy.” If I imagined the rest of my time might be
A series of clicks comes from the antenna, anticlimactic after the pangolin encounter,
like a benevolent so subtle I struggle to hear it. “It means we’re Phinda is quick to brush my concerns to one
forest troll within a kilometre,” says Jessie, listening side. It launched its pangolin programme off
intently. We drive on, excitement rising, and the back of other wildlife reintroductions,
then the clicking stops. “She’s behind us now, most notably rhinos. The rhinoceros and the
turn the jeep around.” Driving back 50 metres, pangolin may seem like unlikely bedfellows
we get out and continue through the bush on but everything Phinda’s team learnt about
foot and in silence. There’s a sense of urgency rhino conservation — from deploying anti-
but my progress is clumsy, thorns spearing my poaching units to involving local communities
face and hands as we squeeze through gaps as ears and eyes on the ground — it uses in its
in the dense undergrowth. We head in one pangolin conservation, too.
direction, stop, raise the machine, and then We’ve caught glimpses of both white and
try another, moving off in single file. black rhinos, but they’re elusive creatures,
And then, there she is: a low, shuffling shape quick to scare — as the photos on my phone of
with a long tail, a tiny head and shiny scales. fast-retreating rhino bottoms can attest. For
Booty waddles through a clearing on her back my final days in Phinda, I move to the south of
legs, front paws in the air, bumbling along like the reserve and my guides there, Declan Porter
a benevolent forest troll. She pauses every so and Menzi Dlamini, think they can do better.
often but seems unperturbed by our presence. I meet them on the terrace of &Beyond
“We don’t think pangolins have great Mountain Lodge. Sitting on a granite outcrop,
From left: A South African giraffe grazing eyesight,” Jessie whispers as we crouch down the lodge and its stone cottages look over the
in the bush; researcher Jessie Berndt tracks and let her pass. “They have sensitive pads on forested foothills of the Lebombo Mountains.
pangolins with a telemetry machine their feet that pick up vibrations instead.” “You can see from here how different the

JA N/ FEB 2 0 2 5 99
 SOUTH AFRICA

Left: Phinda has successfully

reintroduced rhinos, including white
rhinos, with the animals dehorned to
make them less desirable to poachers

20 miles

PHINDI GAME RESERVE

Kwazulu Natal

SOUTH Durban
AFRICA PHINDA
GAME RESERVE
PHINDA
FOREST LODGE

Mu
ny
aw

an
aR
PHINDA

ive
AIRFIELD

r
nga Rive
osi r PHINDA
hl MOUNTAIN LODGE
M

GETTING THERE & AROUND

The nearest airport is Durban, a four-
hour transfer away. There are no direct
flights from the UK, so the best bet is to
travel via Johannesburg.
ba.com virginatlantic.com
Average flight time: 11h.
FlySafair and others fly several times
south is,” says Declan. “In the north you have two years,” Declan explains as the animals daily from Johannesburg to Durban,
to climb a termite mound to get any height.” move around the vehicle to get a closer look with a journey time of just over an hour.
We are soon out in those foothills, Menzi at us, their curiosity getting the better of flysafair.co.za
perched on a seat fi xed to the bonnet, minutely their nerves. “They’re tranquillised from a If flight connections necessitate a
assessing the landscape, Declan behind the helicopter and the horn is then smoothed over night in Joburg, stay at comfortable
wheel. “I absolutely love looking for rhino,” using an angle grinder. It’s a huge project.” and quiet City Lodge Hotel OR Tambo
he says. “One, it takes you to beautiful parts of It’s also a successful one, with the animals within the airport. From R2,230 (£100).
the reserve and, two, they’re so hard to find.” suffering no apparent disadvantage by being citylodgehotels.com
A keen birder who’s travelled across southern hornless. Phinda doesn’t reveal how many
Africa in a bid to spot rare species, Declan is rhinos it has, but numbers are up. We see WHEN TO GO
clearly someone who likes a challenge. several more over our time there — two black There’s no bad time for safari but the
On the trail of two white rhinos we’d spotted rhinos standing in a pool, so caked in mud dry months of May to September
in the distance, we come across a cheetah and there’s not a patch of their hide visible; a white are particularly good, with sparse
her scrap of a cub lying in long grass. “The rhino that turns tail and flees with surprising vegetation providing excellent
cheetahs have been our biggest conservation grace and speed as we approach; a black rhino visibility and animals gathering
effort,” Declan whispers as we stop to watch the mother and a tiny male drinking at a watering around remaining water sources.
mother groom her son, their purring audible hole, the baby so young he’s barely mastered Temperatures are in the mid to high
from the vehicle. The reserve actively manages the use of his legs. 20Cs. December to February are wet,
its animal populations, exchanging individuals The most majestic sight is one we catch only humid and hot, around the 30Cs.
with other parks to keep the gene pool healthy fleetingly: running along a far hillside, a white
— 10% of the cheetah population in South rhino bearing two very long, very sharp horns. MORE INFO
Africa can be traced back to Phinda because of “There’s a female who lives on this mountain andbeyond.com
it. “We’re really a conservation project,” says who has a habit of disappearing whenever it zulu.org.za
Declan, “but we offer game driving, too.” comes to dehorning,” says Declan, following
Rhinos are a different challenge: teams of her progress through his binoculars. “I guess HOW TO DO IT
poachers hired by organised crime syndicates she might be the one who got away.” Cazenove+Loyd offers a five-night
have almost wiped them out in southern Africa When I put down my own binoculars, the tailor-made trip with two nights at
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

in the past 15 years. As well as deploying armed rhino is a tiny speck that’s soon lost from sight. &Beyond Forest Lodge, two nights
patrols, Phinda’s solution is to take away the But, as with Booty the pangolin, the encounter at &Beyond Mountain Lodge and
very thing the syndicates prize: the horns. is enough. It’s enough to know that, thanks one ‘camp out’ night; the Pangolin
I see the effect for myself the following to Phinda, rhinos still trot through these hills Conservation Experience; safari walks
day when we track a group of four white and pangolins still wobble through the bush. and game drives; all meals and drinks;
rhinos, their horns rounded stubs on their It’s enough to give hope that they’ll still exist and flights. From £6,500 per person,
noses. “We dehorn them every 18 months to long after we’ve all gone. based on two sharing. cazloyd.com

100 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
ADRIF T IN THE
A K AYAKING E XPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY ’S LOFOTEN I SL ANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND

WORDS: DUNCAN CR AIG

102 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
ARCTIC CIRCLE
B E AC H E S , ROYAL EN CO U NTER S — A N D TH E C HA N C E TO C HA N N EL YO U R I N N ER V I K I N G

P H O T O G R A P H S : S C O T T S A LT

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 103
VIKING CHIEF TAINS IN NORWAY ’S daylight. When the sun’s in no rush, why on
earth should we be?

MOST SOUGHT-AF TER ARCHIPEL AGO Our craft — highly stable, and easily up
to the odd skirmish with a recalcitrant rock
HAD A NOVEL WAY OF ENSURING THEIR — are packed with sufficient water and snacks
to survive an Arctic winter. I’m quickly
GATHERINGS PA SSED OFF WITHOUT reminded of the inestimable joys of ‘the
bicycle of the ocean’, as kayaks are known
THE CUSTOM ARY BLOODSHED. in these parts: nimble enough to probe
even the tightest channel, yet sufficiently
sleek to tick off multiple, largely effortless
miles a day. We’re low profile, in both senses
Swords were left on one island, shields on miles into the Norwegian Sea: a bafflingly — doing nothing to intrude on a silence so
another, with the power talks themselves intricate network of inlets, skerries, natural comprehensive it’s almost disquieting.
staged on a third landmass, broadly harbours and gargantuan monoliths Human encounters prove infrequent yet
equidistant between the two. partitioned by abyssal depths. Through these memorable. There’s the Ellingsen family
That this is being explained to me with the slender channels, the longships that once — husband John William, wife Hilda and their
trio of islands within eyeshot, and by a man terrorised the North Atlantic as far afield as eight-year-old son William — who we meet
with a robust resemblance to a Viking warrior, today’s Nova Scotia manoeuvred with skill and early on day two as they fish from their little
lends the point a splendid indelibility. With (fratricidal bloodletting aside) impunity. white launch off the island of Årsteinen. John
his imposing bulk and long russet beard, one Setting off from the teeny settlement of William has been visiting Lofoten for 32 years,
could well imagine Vidar Hansen riding the Tennstrand — an hour’s drive from the islands’ he tells us. His is one of the summerhouses
prow of an advancing longship brandishing a unofficial capital, Svolvær — we’re following that dot the island’s eastern shore. As we
double-edged sword and unleashing the odd a 25-mile, broadly north east to south west chat, William’s rod suddenly bows. He shouts
ice-meltingly fearsome roar. trajectory. The area is what’s known as the excitedly and wrestles the fish to the surface:
Alas, today the guide is wielding nothing ‘inside’ of Lofoten: the southern flanks that face an infant coalfish, not yet of size. The boy’s
more offensive than a kayak paddle, and the the mainland, sheltered from the full force of father unhooks it and places it carefully back.
only pillaging on his mind is the snack bag the Arctic currents and storms from the north. A sea eagle, which has watched the encounter
stowed in the little hatch just behind his seat. You might say we’re island-hopping, with rising interest from its perch on the
We’re on a four-day kayaking expedition though that would be to bestow on our honey-coloured cliffs, takes to the skies and
in the Lofoten Islands, a destination that enterprise a dynamism that’s conspicuously flaps languidly away. It’ll have to do its own
— as those Vikings knew only too well — is lacking. Our progress is slow, serene even fishing today.
tailor-made for seafarers. This ostentatiously — inspired by tranquil, sunny weather and A mile or so further on, another John is
proportioned island chain probes nearly 100 the wonderfully pacifying effects of 24-hour spearfishing for halibut. We spot his bobbing

104 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 N O RWAY

Kayak guide Hans Kristian Nilsen

off the island of Gårdsøya
Right, from top: Summerhouse
on Årsteinen belonging to the
Ellingsen family; Anne Myrlund
works the loom at her home in the
village of Brettesnes
Previous pages: Turquoise waters
at the south tip of Årsteinen, with
Lofoten’s chain of peaks beyond

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 105
N O RWAY

Kayaking in an inlet on
the island of Årsteinen
Left, from top: Hans
Kristian Nilsen uses string
to calculate kayaking
distances; kayak guide
Vidar Hansen

106 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
neoprened head and bright orange swim buoy killer whale is far from his worst-case scenario. I’m soon gnawing away as we push on, like a
from a distance and glide over for a chat. John Call it a Viking’s death. cowboy with a cheek full of tobacco.
Sällebrant is a marine biologist from Bodø All of the properties in which we
— the gateway town to the islands, situated ROYA L A P P ROVA L overnight during our expedition — a blend
around 70 miles south on the mainland. Humans have been trying to tame the Lofoten of guesthouses and homestays — owe their
Eschewing the more convenient propeller Islands for nearly six millennia, with limited existence in some way to Lofoten’s oldest
plane or ferry, he’s driven here with his family success. Much of the 25,000-strong population trade. The first night is in the fishing hamlet
on holiday — an epically circuitous journey still clings to the islands’ fringes, concentrated of Pundslett, on the island of Årsteinen. The
that his manner suggests was worth every around Svolvaer and the town of Leknes cottage is set on the water’s edge, meaning we
mile. “It’s truly beautiful, isn’t it,” he says further west. For centuries, the temperate can haul up outside and launch with a short
joyfully, treading water with his flippers and Gulf Stream-vitalised waters have drawn portage at low tide the following morning.
gesturing to the ring of distant peaks that spawning Atlantic cod by the tens of millions, Leading up to the peak above the property
encircle us. The sea around him sways with creating one of the world’s greatest and most is a trail inaugurated in 2016, after Norway’s
the gloopy lethargy of brash ice, yet the water lucrative fisheries. revered Queen Sonja — then 79 years
is so clear I can see the kelp strands fluttering Today, the emblematic red rorbuer, or old — tackled the three-mile hike to the
on the seabed nearly 20 feet below. fishermen’s cottages, are often converted to top. At the summit is the Dronningvarden
As we depart, I ask Vidar about the marine accommodate visitors, but the cod is still hung (Queen’s Cairn), which contains a plaque
wildlife at the other end of the spectrum and dried on large wooden racks called hjell, with a quote from the mountaineering royal.
to coalfish and halibut — specifically the which rise from the shore throughout the It reads simply: “What a country!”
mighty orca, or killer whale. His eyes light islands like medieval gallows. Vikings would “Do the royals come up to Lofoten often?”
up. Sightings have risen exponentially in the take this tørrfisk (stockfish) on their voyages, I ask Vidar. “All the time,” he responds,
past five years, he says. They come for the both as sustenance and currency to trade. sounding like a tour guide on autopilot.
sild (young herring), best thought of, he says, Vidar has brought some of this maritime Yet, sure enough, later that day his phone
as “orca Haribo”. It’s not uncommon for a biltong with him. He pulls it out as we bob bleeps with a local news update and there it is:
pod to pass by just a few yards from a vessel contentedly in an inlet. The rocks above the KS Norge, the royal family’s elegant, white-
— Vidar shows me footage of exactly this, tidemark are coated in a creamy-beige moss hulled 1930s royal yacht, negotiating the
captured from the RIB tours he also leads. as thick and inviting as a deep-pile carpet. very same sheer-sided fjord into which we’d
Fortunately, we’re not really their type. Through this insulating fleece, the elegant ventured the previous day.
What should we do if one were to pass purple flowers of the blåklokke, or harebell, The second night’s accommodation is
underneath us, I ask my guide, a touch protrude, the head of each like an exquisite even more memorable. Around nine miles
tentatively. He tugs his beard and beams. inverted vase. from Pundslett as the kayak meanders,
“Enjoy the moment — and just hope it doesn’t The stench as the bag is ripped open is draped around a large natural harbour on
tip you over,” he says. From the look on his enough to make my kayak rock. But the dry, the southern shore of Stormolla, lies the
face, I sense that a sticky end courtesy of a unsalted tørrfisk proves gently addictive and settlement of Brettesnes. Of the dozen or so

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 107
N O RWAY

ONE OF THE M ANY BEGUILING

INCONGRUITIES OF LOFOTEN IS THAT
HERE — HIGH UP IN THE ARC TIC
CIRCLE — IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S
GREAT BEACH DESTINATIONS

108 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
The tiny island of Silsandøya and, far to
its west, the 3,094ft peak of Vågakallen

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 109
DISCOVER
THON HOTEL LOFOTEN
Your gateway to Arctic luxury in Svolvær

Nestled in the heart of Lofoten, a breathtaking archipelago renowned

for its dramatic landscapes and vibrant fishing villages, Thon Hotel
Lofoten offers an unforgettable experience for travellers seeking
both adventure and relaxation.

Start your day the right way at Thon Hotel Lofoten, where breakfast
is more than just a meal—it’s an experience. Renowned for having the
best hotel breakfast in Norway, the extensive buffet features a wide
variety of local delicacies.

Book online at thonhotels.com/lofoten

 N O RWAY

A portage across the tidal

flats between the islands of
Kjepsøya and Stormolla
Right: Glass fishing floats on
the island of Skrova

properties, one immediately catches the eye: that whisks him away is his 20-year-old temporarily left. As we do, the most enormous
white and stilted, with boathouse vibes and replacement, Hans Kristian Nilsen. arc of white sand opens up, so broad it almost
a small jetty that extends out across the clear The younger man — a kayaking-climber meets to form a circle. Beyond, imposing even
water. Standing on this is a little wooden crane originally from Bergen in Norway’s south from a distance, are the muscular, snow-
and a jovial woman in glasses and a green — immediately hurls himself off the jetty for splashed peaks of Austvågøya, Lofoten’s
dress who waves as we approach. a quick cool-down swim, then further endears largest island.
This is Anne Myrlund, daughter of the himself to me by preparing a feast of freshly I accelerate towards land, raise my paddle
local fish dealer who used to receive fishing caught fish, heaped vegetables, ice-cold lager and allow the kayak to slide up the beach
boats here to unload their catch. Mostly from the Lofotpils microbrewery in Svolvær, to rest in the firm sand. An orange-beaked
cod, perhaps some pollock. Anne and her and lefser — traditional flatbreads, on this oystercatcher picks its way meticulously
husband Odd (“as in ‘not even’,” he says, occasion served as a dessert, and filled with through the shallows, then skims off, beak full.
when I’m momentarily wrong-footed) live in sugar and cinnamon. At length, I peel the elasticated fringe of my
the adjacent cottage and use this creaking, We study a map of the islands as we dine, spraydeck from the rim of the kayak’s cockpit,
lovingly converted space for visiting friends Hans Kristian using a little piece of red string stand up, take off my buoyancy aid and other
and family. Also, it transpires, for the to calculate kayaking distances. Then I take gubbins, and plunge into the exhilarating cool
occasional peripatetic paddlers. There are a advantage of the sun slipping behind the of the bay.
couple of bedrooms upstairs, a little kitchen adjacent peaks in a horizontal sunset to turn It sets the tone for the day, as we follow an
and a space with a pedal-operated vevstol in, and nod off to the sound of water lapping impulsively meandering path through the
(loom), which Anne calls her therapy room. idly against the jetty’s timber supports a few skerries west of the island of Litlmolla like
We unload our dry bags, shower, then stand feet below. a brace of beach-seeking missiles. By mid-
on the edge of the jetty in the evening light as afternoon, our target island for the night is
Anne takes us on a trip down memory lane. A RC T I C B E AC H E S within sight.
“See the house with the green roof?” she says, One of the many beguiling incongruities of They call Skrova, not entirely convincingly,
pointing across the bay. “My old school. Lofoten is that here — high up in the Arctic the Hawaii of Lofoten. It’s a reference to those
And the one with the brown? That was the Circle — is one of the world’s great beach beaches again but also the long summer hours
shop run by my godfather in which I helped destinations. Over the first couple of days this of sunlight — even more protracted here, away
out as a child.” The little road that I can see has been apparent only in little smudges of from overshadowing mountains. One June
arcing round the bay wasn’t built until 2000: sand here and there. As we leave Brettesnes at day in 1972, locals will proudly tell you, the
20th-century trappings arriving just in time the start of day three, things go full Caribbean. mercury touched 30C. Somewhat aptly, given
for the onset of the 21st. We pass Kjepsøya — the gathering spot for the sobriquet, our approach yields the first surf
Brettesnes marks the approximate midway Viking chieftains that Vidar had pointed out of the trip — a manageable half-foot or so that
point of the trip. Vidar has to depart for a from afar, then swing right towards Oddvær, rises to stern as we’re crossing the glistening
family engagement. Dropped from the RIB the smaller isle on which warriors’ swords were strait and speeds our path to harbour.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 111
N O RWAY

20 miles
Norwegian
S ea
Bodø

N
SWEDE
NORWAY

OSLO
n
e Tennstrand
t Austvågøya
Pundslett
o Årsteinen
Svolvær
f Stormolla
Brettesnes
Leknes Litlmolla
o Skrova
Kjepsøya

L
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Norwegian and Scandinavian Airlines
fly from UK cities to Bodø via Oslo.
norwegian.com flysas.com
Average flight time: 3h40m plus
stopover time.
Widerøe has several flights daily from
Bodø to Svolvær and Leknes, and in
summer also offers direct flights from
Oslo to both Lofoten hubs. wideroe.no
Average flight time from Bodø: 30m.
The seven-day Nordland travel pass
includes unlimited bus travel in Lofoten

Monica Viegas runs and use of the Bodø to Svolvær express

Heimbrygga restaurant boat, which takes three-and-a-half

and guesthouse on Skrova hours (NOK1,290/£91). reisnordland.no
with her partner Mario
WHEN TO GO
From late May to mid-July the sun
doesn’t set. The weather is variable,
A close-knit community of just a couple Portugal, Monica arrived in Lofoten in March but a clear summer’s day in July and
of hundred people lives here year-round. 2020, planning to spend just a couple of August can see temperatures creep
Amid the cottages and cabins that fringe the weeks on the islands. “But I was trapped here up to 20C. It’s the busiest period,
horseshoe-shaped harbour in the north west by Covid!” she says, sounding whatever the with accommodation scarce. Winter
are art galleries and photo exhibitions. The opposite of distraught is. She met her partner, lasts from November to March, with
two dozen children that attend the sole school Mario, bought Heimbrygga and now really polar nights between early December
are celebrated in pictures and quotes on the can’t imagine being anywhere else. and early January. Spring, when the
colourful rental bikes in the harbour. She paints a picture of life on the island days lengthen and temperatures rise,
The focal point isn’t hard to spot: a striking, that’s not unpleasing: of daily swims, year- is excellent exploring weather.
ochre-hued timber building with a steeply round and wetsuit-free. Of the sunshine and
pitched roof, green picture windows optimism and energy of those endless summer WHERE TO STAY
and wraparound decked terrace. This is days. When I ask what she loves most about life Anker Brygge, Svolvær. Four-person
Heimbrygga, a restaurant and guesthouse in Lofoten, she smiles broadly at the challenge, rorbuer cabins from NOK2,635 (£185),
set on a fishing pier and dating back two thinks for a moment, then says: “The light.” B&B. anker-brygge.no
centuries. Tonight, it’s seemingly playing host She immediately corrects herself: “Sorry Nusfjord Arctic Resort, Nusfjord.
to every one of those 200 locals. — make that ‘the lights’.” Doubles from NOK2,535 (£180), B&B.
We pull our kayaks up onto an adjacent I ask what she means. “The midnight sun. nusfjordarcticresort.com
pontoon, check into the stylishly refurbished The Northern Lights. The polar nights [the
rooms upstairs, and then I descend with the period between early December and early MORE INFO
sort of thirst and appetite that only multiple January when the sun doesn’t breach the visitlofoten.com
days at sea can work up. horizon], and the weeks that follow when the visitnorway.com
Behind the pale-blue wood bar, Monica sky is a delicate blend of purple and pinks.
Viegas is battling to stay on top of the orders. All are distinct. All are magical.” HOW TO DO IT
Mounds of mussels, battered cod and wedges A late, joyful night follows, necessitating Go2Lofoten offers a four-night multi-
of homemade bread are being ferried out from a lie-in. In the morning I’m presented with a island guided kayaking expedition
the kitchen behind. Despite the frenzy, Monica choice by Hans Kristian: kayak the six or so from £3,400 per person, including
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

— who bought the place with her partner two miles back to base in Svolvær, or hop on the equipment, meals, the services
years ago and thoroughly revitalised it — has a ferry moored just a few tantalising feet from of a kayaking guide, RIB support
smile and familiar word for everyone. our digs and scheduled to depart shortly. and accommodation in a variety of
During a lull later in the evening, I catch I think of the Vikings. Of their ferocious homestays and guesthouses including
up with her taking a breather out on the drive and hard-earned seamanship. Their Heimbrygga. Excludes flights. Previous
deck. It’s gone 10pm but the low sun shines never-a-backward-step mentality.“Yeah, let’s kayaking experience desirable. Other
with a late-afternoon lustre. Originally from get the ferry,” I say. “My arms are a bit tired.” itineraries also available. go2lofoten.no

11 2 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
“Pomâlo” is an essential word here in Dalmatia. It Come stay with us, and let us share with you the
means take it Slow. Easy. Uncomplicated. But more than Dalmatian-style luxury of unhurried simplicity.
this, Pomâlo describes our belief that taking time to
Pomâlo Inn, Vis, Croatia
make something of beauty is worth the effort. That
Authentic. Relaxed. Luxurious.
doing something well is its own reward. It sums up
the more mindful approach to life that’s characteristic “Vis finally has the hotel it deserves” The Times, London
of our island. Rated Top Ten for 2024 by VOGUE
 A S U BTRO PI C A L I S L A N D I N TH E ATL A NTI C ,
M A D E I R A H A S RU G G E D VO LC A N I C MO U NTA I N S
TH AT RI S E A B OV E TH E C LO U D S , N ATU R A L
SW IM MI N G P O O L S D OW N AT S E A LE V E L A N D
MO RE TH A N 1 ,9 0 0 MI LE S O F H I STO R I C AQ U E D U C T S
TR AC I N G TH E L A N D S C A PE S I N B E T W E E N

WORDS & PHOTOGR APHS: CELESTE NOCHE

11 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 115
MADEIRA

Four hundred miles off the north coast

of Africa, Madeira is an island of lush
terraced hills and winding hairpin roads,
which transport visitors in minutes from
mountaintop hiking trails to coastal
villages serving local seafood such as
limpets. The first known settlers of what’s
now an autonomous region of Portugal
arrived in the early 15th century. They
found an unihabited land overgrown
with prehistoric laurel forest (the
remaining habitat is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site today) and extreme changes
of elevation. To bring water from the
wet north west to the drier agricultural
regions in the south, the Portuguese
built levadas (aqueducts). Many of these
narrow canals have become walking
routes but they’re still used to irrigate
farmland, such as Susana Ornellas’s
banana orchard in Câmara de Lobos,
run by her family for over a century.

11 6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 MADEIRA

While Madeira might be best known for

its sweet fortified wine, which became
popular in Britain in the 18th century,
it has other products and crafts it’s
working to preserve, including wicker-
weaving. The tradition dates back to 1850
in Camacha in the south, where wicker
plants grew in abundance. Around the
same time, wicker ‘Monte sledges’ were
used as public transport by locals. Today,
visitors can ride the handmade toboggans
down steep streets behind two carreiros
(drivers), who use their rubber-soled boots
as brakes. Elsewhere in Madeira, cooled
lava has formed natural swimming pools
at the sea’s edge. Porto Moniz in the
north, which is surrounded by craggy
volcanic rock, is one of the best known.
A constant flow of sea water means the
pools are refreshed with the tides.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 119
MADEIRA

Curral das Freiras sits in a deep valley

in central Madeira. Surrounded by
mountains, it can only be accessed by a
single road. It owes its name, meaning
‘nun’s valley’, to the sisters who sought
refuge here from pirates attacking nearby
Funchal in the 16th century. The village
is home to Manuel de Jesus Ferreira,
who’s been weaving wicker for around
60 years, operating out of a workshop
at his house. He started at 10 years old,
leaving school so he could help his father.
His family has been involved in the
tradition for more than a century but
Manuel has no one to pass his skills onto
and is one of only two wicker-weavers
left in the village. Still, he works with the
dedication of a man who knows and loves
his craft, gently weaving and shaping
baskets as islanders here have done
for so long.

120 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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The Big Trip

India’s
Golden
Triangle
LI N K I N G D ELH I , TH E TA J M AH A L
A N D TH E PI N K C IT Y O F JAI P U R , W ITH
DE TO U R S FO R TE MPLE S AND TIG ERS ,
THI S I S THE PERFEC T RO UTE FO R
FI R S T-TIMER S . WO RD S: P O OJA NAI K

How do you grasp the vastness of India? Within its borders

are mountains older than human civilisation, jungles
seemingly as boundless as the ocean, an immense desert
of salt and a city of seven islands. And with many diverse
cultures and traditions — and just as many festivals to
celebrate them — it’s impossible to talk about the country
as a single place. One trip is hardly enough to experience
everything India has to offer, but for those seeking a
starting point, the Golden Triangle — linking Delhi,
Jaipur and Agra, the gateway to the Taj Mahal— offers the
perfect introduction.
Aptly named for the near-perfect shape that these
north-central cities form on a map, this popular route
— commencing in the capital of Delhi and slicing through
the heart of Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan — has all
the ingredients for an epic road trip. But what exactly
makes it ‘golden’? It’s because each city dazzles with its
treasures, among them Delhi’s ancient forts, Agra’s famous
mausoleum and Jaipur’s grandeur — all offering travellers
a glimpse into India’s regal past and spiritual core.
Delhi’s charm lies in its many ruins, serving as constant
reminders of its multifaceted history. Agra, in contrast, is
thronged with visitors, yet never loses its magic — after
all, who can forget the first time they lay eyes on the Taj
Mahal? But Mughal royalty meets its match in Jaipur’s
salmon-pink laneways, revealing forts and palaces
standing cheek-by-jowl with temples and lively bazaars.
And for those seeking to extend their stay, plenty of
other adventures await. The high sand hills in Jodhpur
harbour a mighty fortress; wildlife safaris in the untamed
regions of Ranthambore and Jawai bring visitors face-to-
face with big cats; spiritual Pushkar beckons pilgrims with
its ghats (steps leading into the water); and the lake city of
Udaipur offers boat rides to the serene Lake Palace. The
Golden Triangle, with its myriad extensions and detours,
feels like a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But just when
you think you’ve seen it all, you realise you’ve barely
scratched the surface.

12 2 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGE: GETTY
ITI N E R A RY: ULTIM ATE GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Start point: Delhi • End point: Udaipur • Distance travelled: 849 miles • Average length: 15 days

1 DELHI Delhi’s real gift to travellers is its gastronomy, 2 AG R A

While many travellers rush through Delhi, a mix of regional and international flavours After three days in Delhi, drive into the state
eager to press on south, those who stay are that’s heavily influenced by migrants of Uttar Pradesh to the south east, where the
rewarded. As soon as you leave the airport from across India and refugees from Tibet, landscape gradually shifts from urban sprawl
you’re caught between two worlds: Old Afghanistan, Myanmar and beyond. The to countryside. You’re here to spend a day
Delhi, where the call to prayer drifts between labyrinths near Jama Masjid are particularly in Agra, an erstwhile throne of the Mughal
Mughal-era monuments — remnants of the popular, with restaurants like Karim’s, which dynasty. Millions flock here for the Taj Mahal,
Muslim dynasty that ruled most of India from is known for Mughlai dishes such as its nutty the white marble mausoleum on the River
1526 to 1857 — and modern New Delhi, where mutton korma (braised lamb cooked in a blend Yamuna. It took some 20,000 men over two
jacaranda-lined avenues, buzzing with of spices, yogurt and fried onion paste) and decades to build this tribute from emperor
auto-rickshaws, burst into purple bloom in creamy shahi paneer (cottage cheese in curry Shah Jahan to his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal,
summer. The latter was purpose-built during sauce). Majnu Ka Tilla, near Delhi University’s who died during childbirth in 1631.
British rule and has been the national capital North Campus, is a hotspot for Tibetan fare, Beyond the Taj Mahal, explore more of
since 1947. Don’t miss Jama Masjid, the city’s while Afghan Darbar in Lajpat Nagar to the Agra’s Mughal heritage at Agra Fort — a grand
primary mosque that’s an architectural south has some of the best Kabuli pulav, an red sandstone fortress home to Jahangir
triumph of marble and red sandstone; the Red aromatic meat and rice dish that’s topped Palace and the white marble Khas Mahal, Shah
Fort, a Mughal masterpiece and UNESCO site with raisins. Join No Footprints’ Of Potlucks Jahan’s private residence. Also don’t miss Raja
that took 10 years to build; and the Partition and Partition tour to trace the evolution ki Mandi, once a royal bazaar, now a thronging
Museum, which offers haunting insight into of Delhi’s food through its many diverse marketplace filled with shops offering clothes,
the events that followed the dissolution of the communities. delhitourism.gov.in jewellery, books, home decor and sweets.
British Raj. nfpexplore.com partitionmuseum.org agratourism.in tajmahal.gov.in asiagracircle.in

1 24 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 INDIA

Ranthambore National Park offers the

chance to see tigers in their natural habitat
Clockwise from above: The Taj Mahal, the
marble mausoleum that took 20,000 men
two decades to build; pulses sold on a market
stall in Old Delhi; Jahangir Palace, part of the
sandstone Agra Fort in Uttar Pradesh
Previous pages: Local women carrying water
from a stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: TANYA COOPER

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 12 5
INDIA

3 R A N T H A M B O R E N AT I O N A L PA R K 4 JA I P U R Founded in 1727,
Cross into the state of Rajasthan and you’ll In 1876, Rajput ruler Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh
find one of India’s foremost wildlife havens. II had Jaipur painted pink to welcome Prince Jaipur is considered
The rugged Aravalli and Vindhya ranges Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband — resulting India’s first planned
— among the oldest mountains in the world in a tradition that still defines the Pink City’s
— stand guard over Ranthambore National charm. The highlights are in the Old City, with
city in the Common
Park, a former royal hunting ground for the its salmon-hued facades enclosed by historic Era, shaped
Maharajas of Jaipur. This wilderness spans walls and gates. Start your exploration at the
515sq miles of jungle prowled by Bengal tigers, 18th-century City Palace, a royal residence,
according to Vastu
giving safari-goers the chance to glimpse with its galleries and courtyards open to Shastra — an ancient
India’s national animal in its natural habitat. visitors. Nearby, the Hawa Mahal palace, built
Tours whisk you through dedicated zones in 1799, features nearly 1,000 latticed windows
Hindu doctrine that
aboard 4WDs or open-topped buses, with that once allowed royal women to observe the aims to integrate
the aim of spotting not just big cats but also streets unseen. Jaipur is also known for its
architecture
sloth bears, caracal wild cats, sambar deer, craft heritage — schedule stops in bazaars like
nilgai antelopes, rhesus macaques and marsh Johari, Tripolia and Bapu for jewellery, pottery with nature
crocodiles. For birdwatchers, the park offers and textiles. Beyond the city, you can visit
rich pickings, too — keep your eyes peeled for the hilltop Amber Fort for panoramic views of
birds nesting in ancient banyan trees. Maota Lake, Samode village for a sunrise hot
Add on another day to visit 10th-century air balloon ride, or embark on a hike to Saan
Ranthambore Fort, which seems to rise from Valley with Hunter Hikers.
its hilltop perch as you approach. Covering It’s worth spending at least three days in
1.7sq miles of ramparts and gateways, it offers the area to explore other local attractions. For
From left: Saris being dried in the sun
sweeping views of the wilderness below another quintessential Jaipur experience, visit
before being put on sale; Patrika Gate
from the crumbling Badal Mahal (Palace of the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing in Amber in Jaipur, a city known for its historic
the Clouds). It’s a local favourite, especially village, eight miles from the city, to learn about architecture and salmon-hued facades;
for those visiting the Ganesh temple inside. the ancient technique of hand block printing. the Mehrangarh Fort, which rises 400ft
ranthamborenationalpark.com hunterhikers.com anokhimuseum.com on a hillside over the city of Jodhpur

1 26 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 5 PUSHKAR 6 JODHPUR
Worth a detour Surrounded by hillocks on three sides, Standing at the foot of Mehrangarh Fort in
Pushkar draws hordes of pilgrims to its Jodhpur, you can’t help but tilt your head
S A M B H A R S A LT L A K E 500-plus temples and eponymous lake, which back to take in its full scale. Rising 400ft on
India’s largest inland salt is flanked by 52 magnificent ghats. Steeped in the rocky hillside and extending over three
lake is enormous, stretching mythology, it’s most revered for being home miles, it’s a fortress Rudyard Kipling likened to
into Jaipur, Ajmer and to the world’s only Brahma temple, dedicated something “built by Titans”. From the top, the
Nagaur districts. At Jhapok, to the Hindu god of creation. Come evening, view is no less impressive — a sea of white and
50 miles west of Jaipur, you a symphony of temple bells fills the town as blue houses spreads out far below, reaching the
can hop onto a vintage devotees gather to witness the maha aarti 16th-century city wall that snakes for six miles
narrow-gauge train for a (fire ceremony) at the lake. across the horizon. Stroll through the complex
fascinating hour-long tour, Spirituality aside, when you’re in the to find shaded courtyards and notable palaces.
chugging past 1,000-year- land of flowers, you ought to stop and smell After soaking up Jodhpur’s heritage, spend
old salt pans that are still some roses. Known as the ‘rose garden of an extra day diving into its culinary offerings.
being used today. The best Rajasthan’, Pushkar is also a major exporter Head to Jalori Gate in the north of the city
time to visit is between of the flowers, and visitors can experience for punchy mirchi vadas (potato-stuffed
November and February, dedicated tours offering visits to nurseries, chilli fritters) at Choudhary Namkeen, before
when the lake turns bright the central flower market and a rose water walking a few blocks west to Chaturbhuj
pink with the flamingos that distillation factory. Rameshchandra in Sarafa Bazaar for sweet
flock here to one of India’s If you visit between October and November gulab jamuns (syrup-soaked fried dumplings).
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES

most vital breeding grounds. (the Hindu month of Kartika), don’t miss the And while you’re exploring Rajasthan’s
For an offbeat adventure, world’s largest camel fair, the Pushkar Mela. second-largest city, be sure to visit its
Sambhar’s cinematic salt flats Beyond livestock trading, the colourful hidden stepwells (water sources reached via
also offer an ideal setting for week-long annual festival has gradually staircases). The highlight is the 18th-century
camping and stargazing. evolved to become a cultural extravaganza of Toorji ka Jhalra — a 200ft-deep architectural
folk dances, pageants and even hard-fought marvel with striking geometric designs and
sports competitions. 400 steps down to the water.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 127
 INDIA

Q&A
Eesha Singh, co-founder
of No Footprints

W H AT M A K E S I N D I A A G O O D
D E S T I N AT I O N TO V I S I T ?
India’s diversity is its greatest
strength. We’ve learned what
people truly enjoy is meeting
and interacting with locals;
those connections can be very
meaningful for travellers.
I recently heard someone
say that as we rely more on
technology, travel’s real value
will be in human connection.
Meeting people breaks down
barriers, challenges stigmas and
encourages learning. There’s
nothing more enriching than
hearing diverse stories and seeing
the world through others’ eyes.

H OW C A N V I S I TO R S E N GAG E
Swaroop Sagar Lake WITH COMMUNITIES?
in the city of Udaipur Delhi, shaped by generations of
migrants and refugees, holds a
wealth of untold stories that often
hide in plain sight — and tours
7 JAWA I L E O PA R D R E S E RV E 8 U DA I P U R can explore the city’s diverse
In this secluded stretch of Rajasthan, A chorus of mooing cows, honking mopeds narratives. For instance, our Delhi
nestled in the Aravalli mountain range, lies and lively street vendors is the soundtrack Refugee Food Tour immerses
‘leopard country’ — a unique haven where to Udaipur, a city that’s sometimes called visitors in the flavours of the
humans and one of the country’s most feared the Venice of the East. Its magnetism lies Afghan, Tibetan and Burmese
predators coexist. The Rabaris, semi-nomadic primarily in its artificial lakes, which reflect communities. Likewise, India’s
shepherding people, have learned to share this the blue mountains that circle their banks. LGBTQIA+ history, once barely
rugged terrain with what’s thought to be the A boat ride across Lake Pichola offers views acknowledged, is now addressed
largest concentration of leopards on Earth. In of the Lake Palace, an 18th-century former through guided walks, bringing
these rocky outcrops, surrounded by desert royal summer retreat that rises from its island visitors closer to the city’s queer
scrub and irrigated fields, around 50 leopards like a mirage of white marble. The City Palace landscape. Local women in areas
roam freely. The relationship works mainly is also nearby, and home to an impressive like Nizamuddin Basti have also
because the Rabaris revere the leopards, who museum of Rajasthani craftsmanship — go to carved out spaces for themselves,
in turn do not consider humans to be a threat. see delicately embroidered clothing that was sharing their crafts with travellers
Jawai is governed by the local community, once worn by members of the Mewar royal and showcasing their strength
and conservationists and volunteers regularly family, ornate palanquins and even stone within Delhi’s economically
patrol the area, tracking the leopards’ carvings estimated to be from as early as the challenged neighbourhoods.
movements and sharing their data with the seventh century.
forest department. Safaris, though accessible For a deeper dive into Udaipur’s culture, get W H AT WO U L D YO U
year-round, are tightly regulated, with night stuck in with a painting workshop. Don’t miss R E C O M M E N D B E YO N D
activities prohibited as the leopards descend jal sanjhi, an ancient art where the canvas is R A JA S T H A N ?
from the hills to the lowland pastures. Led water, near Jagdish Temple in the Old City. Global Himalayan Expedition
by the conservationists at Varawal Leopard Legend has it that Radha, Lord Krishna’s works with remote communities
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

Camp or Bera Safari Lodge, you might spot consort, saw his reflection in a pond and in Ladakh, using tours to engage
Neelam, a local favourite female leopard, and outlined it with flowers in reverence. This rare tourists in building sustainable
other wildlife, from hyenas and wild boars to art form, preserved in Udaipur by a family of infrastructure and clean energy
flamingos and laggar falcons. artists, is a unique experience that it’s possible solutions in these isolated areas.
varawalleopard.com berasafarilodge.com to try your hand at. nfpexplore.com ghe.co.in

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 129
 Some of the intricate
frescoes at Hotel Radhika,
one of the many restored
havelis (traditional Indian
mansions) in Mandawa

130 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 INDIA

EYEWITNESS

PA ST LIVES

In a sleepy corner of Rajasthan, local artists are restoring the region’s crumbling
haveli mansions to their former frescoed splendour. Words: Eileen McDougall

The morning fog drifts through the streets of the village Soon we reach Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli, a mansion dating
of Mandawa, engulfing the yellow and cream walls of the from 1870 that’s famous for its paintings depicting the life
town’s now crumbling mansions. It’s early in northeast of wealthy merchant Gulab Raiji. The grandness of this
Rajasthan and camel carts laden with leafy vegetables haveli is evident as we enter the outer courtyard. “These
are sidling along unpaved roads, while men with curled pieces of mirror came from Belgium, they were traded for
moustaches take up their places in cubby-hole stores spices,” Sikander explains, pointing to the small segments
selling general provisions, alongside shops full of red-and- of glass that decorate the domed archway of the front door.
gold fabrics and dusty antiques. Within minutes the fog On the door’s right side is a half-painted elephant,
clears, burned away by the rising sun. carrying several lords in armour. “In every haveli, on the
Steam is starting to rise from the silver pots outside left and right of the door, you see elephants — our symbol of
the village tea shop — its customers huddled together on prosperity,” Sikander tells me. This elephant is unfinished,
nearby steps. Above them, on the clay walls, are murals he explains, because the haveli is currently being restored
of steam trains, depicted in pink and red, sitting beside and turned into a hotel. Today, the workers are on holiday,
scenes of a former noble court. I stop to examine the their tins of paint scattered beneath half-finished frescoes.
paintings and the tea shop salesman, young and smiley, Initially, wealthy merchants brought painters from
beckons. He hands me a cup filled with sugary milk tea. nearby Jaipur to decorate their homes. In Jaipur, artists
“Welcome to Mandawa,” he says, waving away my rupees. from Persia had mingled with those of Delhi’s Mughal
Around 100 miles north of Jaipur, Mandawa sits in the court to produce Rajasthan’s distinctive artistic style
Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, a rural district of small, — detailed folk art of bold lines and bright colours. An
historic towns. Shekhawati is famous for its grand havelis intriguing element of Shekhawati’s art is the juxtaposition
— traditional Indian mansions — that are covered with a of foreigners alongside traditional Rajasthani scenes. From
distinct style of fresco. These paintings depict the meeting Gulab Rai Ladia we stroll to Mandawa’s main street and
of many worlds — of local Rajput chieftains, Mughal rulers, the local branch of the State Bank of India, also housed in a
Hindu deities and Englishmen of the British Empire. haveli. One wall shows an Englishman in jodhpurs, holding
Shekhawati once sat on a historic trading route, linking a boxy telephone.
the seaports of Gujarat to the south west with the Golden The conditions of the havelis vary: some are immaculate
Triangle cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Low taxes brought hotels; others, such as Goenka Double, are believed to be
camel caravans through the region, with merchants haunted and have been left to nature. Many are open to
typically trading sugar, salt, opium, cotton and spices. visitors, still strewn with the old owners’ possessions.
Financed by the growing wealth from commerce, more Behind Gulab Rai Ladia, I find a man painting the
elaborate building work started in the early nineteenth outline of a turbaned warrior onto a wall. This is Mohan Lal
century, resulting in the havelis. But the construction of Saraf Haveli, the former home of textile traders. “When I
railways, and increased use of river transport under British bought the haveli it was in a disastrous state,” explains its
rule, diverted trade away from Shekhawati a few decades local owner, Vishal Joshi. He shows me into a room where
later, leading to the havelis being abandoned. business would have been conducted. “The caretaker
Today, Mandawa is a lesser-known addition to the Golden used to cook here, so these walls were black. We had to use
Triangle circuit, its calm streets providing a laid-back caustic soda to clean the soot,” he continues.
sojourn from hectic cities. Recently, a number of its havelis “By doing that, some of the paintings were washed
have been restored, and rising demand is encouraging more. away,” he says. However, like those first merchants, Vishal
I’m staying at the Hotel Radhika, a restored haveli where brought in artists from Jaipur, where there’s still a large
the sturdy teak doors of the rooms open onto an inner painting community. “I want to reproduce the old,” he says.
courtyard with stained glass windows. “At first, I wanted to build a lucrative business; now, thanks
IMAGE: ALAMY

It’s here that I meet my guide Sikander Khan, who’s taking to these artworks, preservation has become my priority.”
me on a walking tour around Mandawa’s havelis. We pass
several small ones still lived in by families. Children dash H OW T O D O I T: Stays at Hotel Radhika Haveli in Mandawa start at
around their mothers, who are dressed in orange saris. 2,400 INR (£22), room only. hotelradhikahavelimandawa.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 131
INDIA

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Airlines including British Airways and
Air India offer daily direct flights from
Heathrow to Delhi’s Indira Gandhi
International Airport. There are regular
flights between other UK and Indian
cities, but they typically involve at
least one layover at a major airport.
ba.com airindia.com
Average flight time: 9h.
India’s domestic flights offer quick
connections between cities, while the
extensive railway network provides
safe and varied travel options,
including overnight journeys. Intercity
buses are an affordable alternative,
with sleeper services for longer
routes. Renting a car is the most
convenient option, and hiring a driver
is recommended due to variable road

Bargaining is common conditions and traffic rules. In cities,

in markets, and it’s public transport includes buses, trains,

essential to carry cash to metros, taxis, auto-rickshaws and
pay for purchases here rideshare apps like Uber and Ola.

WHEN TO GO
India’s diverse topography means
travellers can expect varying climates
A practical guide to visiting India across the country. The north
especially has hot, arid summers and
cold winters. For the Golden Triangle
How far in advance should I book my trip? it’s usually sufficient for basic communication. circuit, the ideal time is from
It’s recommended to book three to six months Most tour guides are multilingual, often mid-September, just after the
in advance to secure better deals. Safari speaking one or more foreign languages such monsoon, until April when
bookings should also be made early to ensure as Italian, German, Spanish or French. Having temperatures can grow fierce. Days
availability. While online booking is an option, a language translation app can also be helpful. are generally warm, but nights
in-person document verification on the day can be chilly, with temperatures in
of the safari can be time-consuming. Hiring Are there any cultural sensitivities I should Delhi sometimes dipping as low as
an agent to manage the entire process is a be aware of? It’s important to dress modestly, 7C. November and February are
convenient alternative and typically requires especially at religious sites, and respect considered peak travel months,
sharing a copy of your passport. customs like removing shoes and covering coinciding with the best weather and
your head, legs and shoulders when required. wedding season, so expect crowds
What should I know about traditions Bargaining is common in markets, but always and higher prices, particularly for
around eating with hands and safe be polite. Tipping is customary in restaurants, hotels. India’s festivals, based on the
street-food practices in India? Eating with hotels and for services, but amounts can lunar calendar, vary, but witnessing
hands is a custom rooted in ayurveda, believed vary — usually 5-10% in restaurants, or small Diwali’s lights and fireworks (October
to enhance mindfulness and digestion. The change for porters and drivers. Littering to November), the Pushkar Mela fair
right hand is typically used, as the left is is an issue in many parts of India, but (October to November) or the colours
considered unclean in many traditions. Care travellers should avoid contributing to the of Holi (March) are musts. For wildlife
is taken to scoop food with the fingers, using problem. Always use dustbins and dispose enthusiasts, April and May offer the
the thumb to push it into the mouth while of waste responsibly. Seek permission before best chances of spotting big cats.
keeping the palm clean. To enjoy street photographing people, particularly women,
food safely, stick to popular stalls with high or sacred places. Some religious sites and MORE INFO
turnover, opt for freshly cooked items, avoid military areas strictly prohibit photography. incredibleindia.gov.in
uncooked ingredients and be cautious of uptourism.gov.in/en
water sources by choosing boiled or bottled Where can I get local currency? ATMs and tourism.rajasthan.gov.in
drinks. Observing the hygiene practices of money-exchange counters (commonly The Rough Guide to India. £20.99
vendors also helps ensure a safe, authentic accepting US dollars, euros and pounds) are
street-food experience. ubiquitous in major cities and are the best HOW TO DO IT
way to obtain Indian rupees. While most of Wild Frontiers offers a 14-day Classic
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

Am I likely to encounter significant language India has embraced digital payments and Rajasthan tour, travelling from Delhi
barriers? India has 22 official languages international credit and debit cards are both to Udaipur via Agra, Ranthambore and
recognised by the government, with Hindi and widely accepted, it’s essential to carry cash more, from £3,850 per person, including
English being the most widely spoken. While when visiting small shops, local bazaars or transfers and meals, but not flights.
English fluency in rural areas may be limited, more rural areas. wildfrontierstravel.com

132 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R T R A I L F I N D E R S

BRITISH COLUMBIA
West coast wonders
Explore temperate rainforests, Rocky Mountain trails, alpine lakes and
rugged coastlines in Canada’s westernmost province. Words: SJ Armstrong

F
rom the Pacific waves crashing its vibrant public market, shops and food Museum or contemporary Indigenous art at
against the coastline to the vendors, to the Capilano Suspension Bridge, the Mark Loria Gallery.
legendary peaks of the Canadian which swings high above the Capilano The city’s dining scene is worth exploring,
Rockies, British Columbia’s epic River. Then, take the time to discover too, with an ale trail of its microbreweries
landscapes seem made for adventure. traditional and contemporary art from a great place to start. Choose from 16 taps
This is Canada’s most biologically diverse Northwest Coast First Nations and other serving fresh beers in Driftwood Brewery.
province, home to coastal rainforests, cultures at the Museum of Anthropology, Follow up with a walk down the scenic
mountain ranges and fertile valleys. Here, located on the Vancouver campus of the Songhees Walkway to Canada’s fi rst
you can climb the crags that loom above University of British Columbia. brewpub, Spinnakers, or pair your pints
scenic ski villages or wind along the roads Any visit to Vancouver is incomplete with locally sourced platters at the Drake
that hug the shoreline. For a more laidback without a trip to the city’s thriving Eatery. End at Canada’s oldest Chinatown
experience, take the opportunity to taste Chinatown. Sample a selection of small for authentic restaurants, grocery stores
local wines in the Okanagan Valley or plates at Bao Bei or spicy Southeast Asian and the chance to wander down Fan Tan
meander between microbreweries in soups at Fat Mao Noodles. Alley, the narrowest street in the country.
Victoria. No matter your preference, here Where to stay: Sandman Suites in the Where to stay: The Fairmont Empress, a
are five unforgettable places to discover in city’s West End offers beautiful views of luxury hotel favoured by Queen Elizabeth II,
Canada’s westernmost province. English Bay. is a convenient base for exploration.

VANCOUVER VICTORIA SUN PEAKS

British Columbia’s largest city is wedged The province’s capital sits on the southern Head inland to Sun Peaks for both adventure
between the gentle waves of the Pacific and tip of Vancouver Island, located around 60 and seclusion. Covered with snow from
densely forested mountain parks. Explore miles west of Vancouver. Sailboats fill the November to April, this relaxed mountain
Vancouver’s coastline on a whale-watching city’s scenic harbour and the neo-Baroque village is the entry point into Canada’s
tour, keeping an eye out for the humpbacks British Columbia Parliament Buildings second largest ski area. Mimicking the
and orcas that swim near the shore. stand on the water’s edge, overlooking the massif hamlets of the Swiss Alps, the
For more urban comforts, take a tour swells of the Pacific. Begin by diving into town features Tyrolean architecture with
of the city — from Granville Island, with British Columbian history at the Royal BC pubs drawing the apres-ski crowds. In the
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R T R A I L F I N D E R S

warmer months, the pedestrian-only village Alta Bistro or rub shoulders with the apres From left: The Wedge Glacier
in British Columbia’s Garibaldi
offers chairlift access to hiking trails found revellers at the Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub.
Provincial Park offers opportunities
among blankets of alpine wildflowers. For Where to stay: Crystal Lodge is a centrally for activities such as ice climbing; a
travellers seeking extra adventure, downhill located hotel just steps from the ski lifts. family paddles a canoe downstream
and cross-country mountain biking trails
stretch across three mountains with more KELOWNA
than 60 miles of terrain to explore. Fertile glacial soil and temperate valley PLAN YOUR TRIP
Where to stay: In the heart of the village, climes combine to create an agricultural
the Sun Peaks Grand features a spa, heated oasis in the Okanagan Valley. Start in the Several airlines offer daily
pool and mountainside hot tubs with views small, laid-back city of Kelowna and take direct flights from London
of the slopes. to the winding roads that wrap the valley’s to Vancouver. Visitors can
vineyards and orchards. Visit the boutique discover the province’s
WHISTLER Foxtrot Vineyards for a comprehensive highlights with Trailfinders’
Thrill-seeking crowds flock to Whistler in lesson on glacial grape cultivation or Beautiful British Columbia
the winter for its snow-laden slopes and icy sip crisp Chardonnays with views over tour, a 17-night route that
adventures. Yet the flower-woven meadows, Okanagan Lake at Quail’s Gate. includes some of BC’s top
alpine valleys and vibrant village make it a After an education in viticulture, hop hotels and tours, as well
year-round destination. Paddle across the between Kelowna’s 15 local breweries, as car hire, for £4,299 per
serene Alta Lake, pedal on the car-free Valley clustered within easy walking distance of person. For help planning
Trail that weaves between neighbourhoods one another in the city’s downtown. Start your trip, call 020 7795 4576
or catch a panoramic view of the Coast by pairing chicken wings with beers brewed or visit trailfinders.com
Mountains on the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola. in-house at Kettle River Brewing Company,
Whistler’s pedestrianised village is then follow up with small-batch brews at
IMAGES: GETTY

home to a wide variety of shops, cafes, the female-owned Rustic Reel Brewing Co.
restaurants and bars, with plenty of dining or an IPA tasting board at BNA Brewing Co.
options. Gorge on gourmet baked goods at Where to stay: Kelowna’s Coast Capri Hotel
Purebread, try braised Canadian bison at has an on-site spa and outdoor pool.

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
136 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CITY LIFE

GR ANADA
In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of
life — not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for
hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists

W O R D S : D A N I E L S TA B L E S . P H O T O G R A P H S : D AV I D C H A R B I T

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 13 7
G R A N A DA

It’s almost sunset, and the hilltop cave quarter an architectural masterpiece — sits framed From left: Street and
of Sacromonte is just beginning to stir. The beyond Pepe’s balcony, against a shifting tattoo artist Francisco
summer heat, which has been smothering canvas of burnt ochre, rose gold and ferrous (Paco) Hidalgo; Granada
is known for its bounty of
Granada all day like a weighted blanket, has red in the quickening sunset.
oranges; looking north
begun to lift; the heady scent of wisteria hangs Despite his classical prestige, Pepe’s earliest
west across Granada
on the breeze, and the shaded plazas echo with albums in the late 1950s and early 1960s
from the Alhambra
the meowing of cats and the shouts of playing were flamenco records. “I’ve always been Previous pages: The view
children. As I walk up the steep cobbled in love with flamenco,” he says. “Its spirit is of the Alhambra from
streets, another sound filters in — the plucking what we call duende: something like divine El Albaicín
of a classical guitar, coming from the open inspiration, but not religious — the divinity of
door of a hillside home. all humanity. When you’re in touch with that,
“Sacromonte has a magic of its own,” says you lose fear. Duende takes fear away.”
guitarist Pepe Romero when I meet him inside. At Pepe’s urging, I climb further up the hill
“It was here in the mountains that the Romani to see duende in action at Cueva de la Rocío,
people settled. Then the Muslims and Jews, a flamenco venue in a complex of rock-cut
exiled by the Christian authorities, took refuge caves. I’m ushered into a tunnel-like room
here in the 16th century. Sacromonte was one with a barrel ceiling that’s dimly lit by purple
of the hotspots where flamenco was born, light, its rough walls hung with brass cooking
against this backdrop of oppression. Flamenco pots and family photos. A drummer, singer
began as a lament.” and guitarist occupy the stage at the end,
Today, Pepe — a spry, charismatic delivering impassioned songs interspersed
80-year-old — is one of the world’s most with shouts of “Ay!” — the exclamation known
famous classical guitarists. Although he’s as the quejío, the cry of lament.
from Málaga, his musical journey owes its Through it all, a female dancer in a polka-
origins to Granada, after he was captivated dot dress improvises a captivating dance,
by hearing his father playing Francisco her fingers either clicking rhythmically or
Tárrega’s famous guitar piece, Recuerdos de clenched in defiant fists, her heels sending up
la Alhambra. As we speak, the Alhambra itself a firecracker chorus of percussive taps from
— Granada’s famed Moorish-Christian palace, the polished floor.

138 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
INSIDER TIPS The spirit of flamenco infuses the artistic “Flamenco and street art share a lot
life and collective imagination of all of spiritually,” he says between puffs on a
Entrance to the Nasrid Palaces, the Granada. The labyrinthine alleyways of the roll-up cigarette. “Even though graffiti came
most famous part of the Alhambra, Albaicín, the city’s medieval Moorish quarter, from street culture in the US, there’s a lot in
is strictly timed with slots across house darkly atmospheric clubs like Eshavira, common between hip-hop and flamenco.
the day (these sell out; book where instrumentalists and singers improvise Both have singing, and are very rhythmic
ahead). Cheaper, untimed tickets new fusions of flamenco and jazz in real time, — hip-hop has beats, while flamenco…” He
are available for the Generalife while flamenco-inflected rock bands like Los taps his feet, snaps his fingers, and emulates
gardens and Alcazaba citadel, Planetas have helped bestow on Granada the percussive flamenco guitar by rapping his
also in the Alhambra complex. crown of indie capital of Spain. Flamenco’s hands against his knees. “But the main thing
hold on Granada transcends even the world of is a shared spirit. Both are an artistic fight.
Head to the Museo de La Zambra, music, though, and can be found in some of Breakdancing in the Bronx and the Romanis
home to the singer Curro Albaicín, the most unexpected places. dancing in Sacromonte — it’s not so different.”
known to some as the King of Raúl leafs through a photobook of his work,
Sacromonte. Curro comes from THE NEW FL AMENCO which includes a leonine portrait of legendary
a long line of flamenco musicians In Realejo, a gritty, centuries-old district south gitano singer Camarón de la Isla, and a serene
and loves to meet visitors. of Sacromonte that was once home to Granada’s image of virtuoso guitarist Paco de Lucía,
Jewish community, a striking mural shows a whose fusions of flamenco, classical and jazz
Have a go at flamenco at Carmen dark-haired woman with hooped earrings. Her made him a leading figure in the so-called
de las Cuevas, in Sacromonte, one forehead is marked with a bindi — a reference nuevo flamenco (new flamenco) movement.
of several celebrated flamenco to the origins of the Romani in northern India. Most of the images Raúl shows me, he says,
tablaos (venues) in the city. It La fuerza esta en las raices, reads calligraphic no longer exist — removed by the authorities,
also offers classes, from one-off writing next to her. The strength is in the roots. despite often being commissioned by the
initiations to more advanced The mural, like the many others that brighten owners of the buildings. I decide to go out and
courses. carmencuevas.com the elegantly fading buildings in Realejo, is the see some more of Raúl’s current crop of murals
work of Raúl Ruiz, aka El Niño de las Pinturas while I’ve still got the chance.
If you fancy something a little (‘The Boy of the Paintings’) — Granada’s most I walk around the Realejo, ticking off Raúl’s
heavier, dive into Granada’s rock celebrated street artist. I meet Raúl around the pieces as I see them: vibrant paintings of
scene in the area around Plaza corner from the mural in his studio, where every guitarists, violinists, crowds clapping along
de la Universidad. El Bar de Eric is surface is covered in flecks of paint — from the to flamenco, and children playing in the
run by Granada rock royalty — Los boombox pumping out house tunes, to his hand, street. I soon stumble across Mítica, a tattoo
Planetas drummer Eric Jiménez. which he extends to me in a warm greeting. studio that also serves as Raúl’s official shop,

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 139
140 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 G R A N A DA

Clockwise from left: Moroccan mint tea

and sweets, a popular treat at one of Calle
Calderería Nueva’s many Moorish tea
rooms; a flamenco dancer at La Cueva del
Rocío, Sacromonte; inside tapas bar Los
Diamantes; the botanical garden of the
University of Granada

selling stickers, badges and prints bearing Lorca’s spirit is upheld by many of Granada’s Q&A with Vincent
his designs. Lured by the promise of air young rap stars, who have made the city an Biarnes, president of
conditioning, I step inside and meet tattooist epicentre for a new genre of music that fuses Vimaambi cultural
and street artist Paco Hidalgo, a tall man with hip-hop and flamenco. Breakout stars include association
dreadlocks and a thick beard, who tells me the La Zowi and Dellafuente. I meet two others,
government are clamping down on graffiti. the duo Pepe y Vizio (aka Pepe Sánchez-Vera W H AT D O E S
“The last six months, they’ve had a zero- Serrano and Vicente Perez Carmona), in the VIM A A MBI DO?
tolerance policy,” he says. “But the art is a gift Jardines del Triunfo, a leafy park in central We stage flamenco
we give to the city — the people love it.” I can Granada. They’re young, with buzz cuts and performances and offer
believe him — the streets of the Realejo are beards, in baggy white T-shirts, gold chains lessons from famous artists
brightened up no end by Raúl’s murals. And a and colourful shorts. “Lorca influences all to give a more diverse range
punky, anti-establishment attitude is part of of us artists in Granada,” says Pepe, “partly of people the opportunity
the neighbourhood’s modern character. That because the flamenco singers, like Enrique to get into it. My wife was
much is clear not just from the street art, but Morente, sang his words.” a poet from a prominent
from the name of a small square down the road It’s refreshing to hear contemporary urban Andalucian flamenco family,
from the tattoo studio: Placeta Joe Strummer, artists unselfconsciously citing the influence so she knew first-hand that
named for the legendary frontman of The of their country’s long-dead and beloved if you’re not connected
Clash, who found in Granada a spiritual home. poet — it’s more difficult to imagine British directly to one of the big
One face that I see repeatedly among the rappers or graffiti artists extolling the virtues dynasties who own the
painted streets of the Realejo, stencilled onto of, say, William Wordsworth. But Lorca, as the flamenco clubs, it’s hard to
walls and lampposts, is that of Federico García embodiment of the flamenco spirit, is different get started with performing.
Lorca, often described as both Granada’s most — a voice for the voiceless, just like the rappers
famous son and Spain’s most popular poet. A who Vicente would listen to growing up. When H OW H A S F L A M E N C O
famous left-wing figure, he was assassinated he met Pepe, a flamenco guitarist, they saw the I N G R A N A DA C H A N G E D
by fascist forces in 1936, at the age of 38, and ways in which their two styles could fuse. S I N C E YO U O P E N E D ?
ever since he has been a symbol of Andalucian “The sounds complement each other, but It’s become more diverse
resistance against oppressive nationalism. so do their origins,” Vicente says. “Working in the 30 years since we
He was a particular champion of Granada’s classes, poverty, struggle — flamenco and opened. Around a quarter of
Romani communities — reflected in his most hip-hop are from different countries, but people who come here today
famous work, Gypsy Ballads — and in 1922, their sentiments are the same.” They’re not aren’t Spanish. Many of them
helped stage a flamenco festival in the grounds the only ones in Granada merging the two are from Mexico, Argentina,
of the Alhambra, which has been credited genres, and Vicente says that the profusion or Venezuela, but people
with popularising the art form. More than of flamenco through all aspects of city life is come from beyond Latin
anything, Lorca espoused the creative power partly responsible. ”The influence of flamenco America, too.
and meaning of duende, describing it as “a is everywhere in Granada,” he says. “Music,
mysterious power that everyone feels, and no painting, poetry, cinema — everywhere.” I S T H E LO C A L PA S S I O N
philosopher can explain.” Then there’s the local accent. Andalucian FOR FL A MENCO AS
Spanish is particularly suited to rap: it’s S T RO N G A S E V E R?
pleasingly sibilant, and the tendency to chop Absolutely. Flamenco is
Artists in residence the ends off words creates a consonant-rich deeply rooted in the local
Granada’s miradors, or cadence that clicks like castanets. population — we hear it from
More than anything, for these rap stars the moment we’re born,
viewpoints, often host — just as for the gitanos of Sacromonte in so there are always artists
impromptu flamenco. Visit centuries past — flamenco is a wellspring for coming through. They just
the downtrodden, of love, passion and revenge. need the chance to perform,
Mirador de los Carvajales for And duende, of course, which Pepe says is a which is what we’re giving
the chance to watch these state of being for Granadinos. “You can feel the them here.
duende anytime — it doesn’t matter if you’re vimaambi.com
spontaneous performances practising karate or making a coffee,” he says.
overlooking the Alhambra “Flamenco is a frame of mind.”

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 141
 [email protected]
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 G R A N A DA

From left: A flamenco 14 HOURS IN

dancer at La Cueva del
Rocío, Sacromonte;
traditional tapas at
Granada
Los Diamantes

8A M 1 2 PM
B R E A K FA S T O N C H U R RO S T H E C AV E S O F S AC ROMO N T E
Nobody quite knows the origin of churros After the Alhambra, the most atmospheric
— the indulgent breakfast dish of deep-fried place in Granada is Sacromonte, a large hill
dough tubes, dusted in sugar or dipped in hot whose surface is riddled with cave houses and
chocolate — but one theory is that they came flamenco venues. Get a feel for the unique
to southern Spain with the Moors. Certainly history of the place, which was traditionally
Granada has plenty of fine spots to try this the home of Granada’s Romani community,
long-standing favourite. Start your day at one at the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, where
of the best, Cafeteria Alhambra, choosing to reconstructed caves show you how people lived
sit in the atmospheric wood-panelled interior (and still live) here. There are also exhibits on
or on the terrace overlooking Plaza de Bib- local fauna and flora and on history, including
Rambla, the heart of Granadino cafe culture. the story of flamenco in Granada.
Plaza de Bib-Rambla, 27, Centro sacromontegranada.com

1 0A M 2 PM
Pulp fiction M A RV E L AT T H E A L H A M B R A A L I T E R A RY L U N C H
No trip to Granada is complete without a visit Although the poet Federico García Lorca died
‘Granada’ is the Spanish to the Alhambra, one of the world’s greatest almost a century ago, it’s possible to join him
word for pomegranate. buildings. An impossibly atmospheric mash- for lunch. The atmospheric Realejo restaurant
up of European and Islamic architectural Chikito was once a cafe where Lorca would
Although the city’s name styles, the palace was expanded and added meet with his fellow intellectuals. With its
is said to come from an to between the 13th and 17th centuries by dark-wood beams and tiled wall decorations, it
successive Christian and Moorish rulers, who looks much the same as in Lorca’s day — and
unrelated Arabic word, bestowed it with stately pleasure gardens, now there’s a full-size statue of him which sits at
the fruit has become tinkling fountains, latticed archways and one of the tables. The menu includes traditional
ornate ceilings. Booking a ticketed slot online local delicacies like tortilla del Sacromonte
the local icon, adorning far in advance is essential. — an omelette with lambs’ brains and testicles.
street signs citywide tickets.alhambra-patronato.es restaurantechikito.com

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 143
G R A N A DA

Jardines del Triunfo

S acromonte
Cueva de la Rocío

A l bai c ín

Alhambra
GRANADA

Mítica
FRANCE Real ej o

SPAIN

AL
MADRID

PORTUG
Granada
500 yards
ALGERIA

GETTING THERE & AROUND

There are no direct flights from the
UK to Granada, although the city’s
Federico García Lorca airport is well
connected by Iberia and Vueling to
other major cities in Spain, with daily
flights from Madrid and Barcelona.
iberia.com vueling.com
Average flight time: 4h40m.
Another option is to travel by train,
with Granada’s central train station
well connected on the Renfe network
daily to Seville and Madrid, from where
onward connections are easy.
renfe.com
Most of Granada can be explored on
foot, although the cobbled streets
and steep hills can make for difficult
walking. A reliable local bus network
Flamenco guitarists and singers can take you to most of the sights,
at Mirador de San Nicolás including the Alhambra.

WHEN TO GO
Granada’s summers are some of the
4 PM 8 PM hottest in Spain, with average highs
M O O R I S H R E L A X AT I O N S U N S E T AT T H E M I R A D O R of 34C in July. Winters are mild, with
Head inside for some Moorish-style pampering Views of the Alhambra draw the eye from average highs of 13C in January; this is
at the Hammam al-Andalus, a striking modern all over Granada, but the most famous and also a quieter time at the city’s major
bathhouse built in the traditional Arabian beautiful of them all can be enjoyed from the sights. Spring and autumn have the
style. The treatment menu includes water Mirador de San Nicolás, which sits on a hill nicest weather (highs of 24C in May,
therapies and essential-oil massages — perfect in the Albaicín quarter directly opposite the with little rain), but are also the busiest
for rejuvenating those tired muscles after a day palace. Time a visit here for an hour around times of year.
walking Granada’s hills. Suitably refreshed, sunset to gaze across at the storied monument
walk five minutes to Calle Calderería Nueva and experience some of the city’s most vibrant WHERE TO STAY
for a mint tea in one of the street’s beautiful street life: expect to see musicians strumming Hotel Casa 1800, Albaicin.
Moroccan teahouses. flamenco guitars, kids playing ball games and From €93 (£78), room only.
granada.hammamalandalus.com plazas lined with terrace restaurants perfect hotelcasa1800granada.com
for a casual dinner or a few drinks. Villa Oniria, Centro. From €88 (£74),
6 PM room only. villaoniria.com
G O TA PA S - H O P P I N G 9 PM
Andalucia is considered the home of tapas, F L A M E N C O AU T É N T I C O MORE INFO
and Granada is one of the few cities where There are dozens of options when it comes to turismo.granada.org
most bars still serve a decent portion of food seeing live flamenco while you’re in Granada,
for free with every drink — from hearty but most of them are inauthentic tourist HOW TO DO IT
plates of patatas bravas (fried potatoes) to traps. See the real thing at Peña La Plateria, Iberian Escapes offer three nights
garlicky prawns and bocadillos (mini- Granada’s oldest flamenco club, which opened in Granada at the Hotel Alhambra
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

sandwiches). Aimless tapas bar-hopping is in 1949 in the medieval alleyways of the Palace from €2,073 (£1,745) per person,
one of the many joys of visiting Granada, and Albaicín. Scheduled shows are held every including private transfers, guided
a cheap way of filling up, but if you’re looking Thursday night, but impromptu performances tours of the Alhambra, Sacromonte and
for some pointers, options include local often occur on other days. If nothing is on, the Albaicín, a multi-course Spanish
chain Los Diamantes, which specialises in try Jardines de Zoraya, another well-regarded gastronomy experience and a live
expertly cooked fried-fish dishes. venue nearby. laplateria.es flamenco show. Excludes flights.
losdiamantes.es flamencogranada.com iberian-escapes.com

14 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Nature and Wildlife Adventures that are

LazyBearLodge.com
 CITY LIFE

BATH
Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the
travel map — and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary
great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth

W O R D S : A N G E L A L O C AT E L L I

It was January 1801 when Jane Austen moved and the uniform neo-classical architecture,
to Bath. Considered a spinster at the grand age built from honey-hued Bath stone, contributed
of 25, she followed her family as they left the to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World
countryside for the southwestern city, where Heritage Site — the only UK city to be listed
her parents had married decades before. The in its entirety. The centre is walkable and
move was, in hindsight, somewhat mistimed. community-focused, with independent
Bath had been the beacon of high society in hotels, shops spotlighting artisanal work and
the 18th century, when it climbed the ranks restaurants celebrating local produce. Yet
as an elegant spa town, centred around hot Austen’s fans flock to see the sites associated
springs and built up in Palladian fashion. with the author and the Regency era, be it her
By the time the Austens settled in, it was past former residence or the streets featured in
its heyday. Seaside resorts like Brighton had works like Persuasion and Northanger Abbey.
come into vogue, and wellness retreats in In 2025, these visitors will be well catered
northern Europe had grown more accessible. for as the city celebrates the 250th anniversary
Still, their arrival would have fallen in of her birth. The annual Jane Austen Festival
the swing of the ‘season’, or social calendar. will return with the usual parades, croquet
Between October and June, Bath drew games and sewing workshops in September, but
moneyed visitors from London and beyond, there’ll be celebratory dances in summer and
who rented flats for weeks on end to make the winter, too. Specialist operator Strictly Jane
most of its events. A day might have started by Austen Tours is offering five-night packages to
‘taking the waters’ — soaking in the Roman mark the occasion; theatre companies will put
Baths, the city’s thermal complex. Afternoons on themed performances; and hotels are set to
were typically spent promenading along host special events for guests.
fashionable addresses like the Circus and What would Jane Austen make of Bath’s
Royal Crescent, or across Pulteney Bridge over claim to her legacy? Following her father’s
the River Avon. There were plays on in theatres death in 1805, her close family survived on
IMAGE: TOBY MITCHELL

and balls held at the Assembly Rooms, where strained finances; when they moved away in
romance might be sparked mid-cotillion: 1806, she wrote about ‘happy feelings of escape’.
step forward, turn back; see, be seen. But the city, with its regimented social etiquette
For many, this heritage remains a big draw. and class awareness, inspired her storylines for
Bath has much going for it: its reputation as years to come. Anyone familiar with her novels
a health centre has spawned modern spas, will see it as a good enough match.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 147
B AT H

SEE & DO in Roman costumes and historic accounts

G E T TO K N OW JA N E AU S T E N : Down the from those who once frequented it. Don’t leave
road from the author’s former residence, without sipping the sulphur-smelling, rust-
The Jane Austen Centre is a small museum flavoured water from a fountain near the exit.
dedicated to her life and legacy. Visits begin romanbaths.co.uk
with an introduction to the Austen family TA K E A WA L K : Jane Austen loved to escape
by a costumed guide and continue through to the countryside and was known to stroll to
an exhibition housing memorabilia from Beechen Cliff, a wooded hill a 20-minute walk
the Regency period (1811-1820) and screen south of the centre. At its top is the Alexandra
adaptations of her novels. Perhaps most Park viewpoint, which provides one of the
interesting is the gallery wall, featuring Jane most famous pulled-back views of the city.
Austen’s only surviving portraits — and what’s The route to reach it on foot includes a long,
believed to be her first piece of fan art. steep flight of steps known as Jacob’s Ladder;
janeausten.co.uk for something less strenuous, take the bus up
B O O K A G U I D E D C I T Y TO U R : Strictly and stroll around the 11-acre park.
Jane Austen Tours runs private, two-and- TA K E T H E WAT E R S : Visitors can no longer
a-half-hour themed walking tours for up to soak in the Roman Baths, but they can reap
six people. While the focus is on the author, the benefits of the city’s mineral-rich waters at
the outings introduce a full set of characters Thermae Bath Spa. The undisputed highlight
associated with Regency Bath, including is the open-air rooftop pool, which hovers
architects John Wood the Elder and John around a pleasant 33.5C and offers panoramic
Wood the Younger, who gave the city its views of the city skyline, including the
unmistakable look, and Richard ‘Beau’ Nash, gothic tower of Bath Abbey. It can get busy; if
who pulled the strings of its social scene. possible, visit on a mid-week morning.
strictlyjaneausten.com thermaebathspa.com
L E A R N A B O U T L I F E I N G E O RG I A N
B AT H : No.1 Royal Crescent is a townhouse-
turned-museum decorated as it might have Literary ties Jane Austen
been in the 18th century, with original
furniture ranging from a bureau bookcase
is far from the only author
to a wig-scratcher. The audio-visual visitor to be associated with
experience draws on passages from Austen
Bath. Mary Shelley lived
novels to reveal what life was like for the Clockwise from top:
family who lived here: in the withdrawing here while writing most of A view of Bath and
IMAGES: TOBY MITCHELL; EMLI BENDIXEN

room, for example, visitors can listen to a Frankenstein, and visitors the surrounding
countryside; a Jane
narration of the dancing scene from Emma.
no1royalcrescent.org.uk can learn about her life and Austen-themed walking
tour, led by a guide
G O B AC K TO W H E R E I T A L L S TA RT E D : magnum opus at a dedicated dressed like Pride and
It’s thanks to the hot springs that the city rose
to prominence as a Regency spa town — and
museum. It’s suitably styled Prejudice character Mr
Knightley; stained-glass
at the Roman Baths, visitors can watch the like a house of horrors, windows at Bath Abbey
thermal waters bubble up in steaming pools.
The bath house dates to around 70 CE, and its
complete with a scream- Previous pages: The
Circus, a historic ring
past is brought to life with holograms, actors inducing escape room of townhouses

148 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 149
B AT H

BUY
A LWAY S S U N DAY: This project began
as a supper club with curated tablescapes,
where everything on display was available
to purchase. It’s since grown into a brand
encompassing a homeware store, a pub
and rooms around the city, all retaining
a welcoming, in-the-know air. The store
showcases artisanal items, many produced
in the area, from pottery to table linen.
alwayssunday.store
TO P P I N G & C OM PA N Y B O O K S E L L E R S :
You don’t need to be an Austen fan to go
book-hunting in Bath — the city has a first-
rate selection of independent stores. Topping
& Company Booksellers, whose shelves are
high enough to require sliding ladders, is a
favourite. Book the ‘coffee with a bookseller’
service to get tailored recommendations over
a hot drink, or pick up one of the wrapped
titles by the till for a ‘blind date’ with a book.
toppingbooks.co.uk
M A RG A R E T ’ S B U I L D I N G S : One of Bath’s
most fashionable spots in Georgian times, this
pedestrianised shopping strip is an elevated
alternative to Walcot Street, the better-known
artisanal quarter. It’s a top spot for interior
stores and antique boutiques; highlights
include Berdoulat and Bath Old Books.
berdoulat.co.uk facebook.com/BathOldBooks
 Film star Bath’s good looks E AT SLEEP
£ TAY LO R ’ S B AG E L S : Siblings Natz and £ H I L L H O U S E : This guesthouse is as homely
have led to it regularly Kai Taylor might have taken a gamble when as they come. Visitors can browse a bookcase
appearing on the silver they opened a hole-in-the-wall bagel store on in the hallway, then sit back in one of six
Walcot Street in their early 20s. Four years on, rooms, which have the sort of mix-and-match
screen, most famously they operate three stores around Bath. Choose prints and bright colour palettes you might
in period dramas, from from classics (such as cream cheese and find at the home of an eccentric friend. The
smoked salmon) or specialities (like barbecue husband-and-wife team live on site and cook
Jane Austen adaptations pulled beef brisket, cheddar and mustard a classic British breakfast on the weekends,
to Les Misérables. A new mayo), all hand-rolled and stacked high. which is served around a communal table.
taylorsbagels.com hillhousebath.co.uk
generation of visitors will £ £ OA K : With fresh produce on sale by the £ £ E I G H T: This B&B was named for the
recognise it as a backdrop entrance and wildflower garlands on the walls, number of rooms in the townhouse in which it
this eco-minded, vegetarian restaurant looks launched, but has since expanded into a second
for Bridgerton, the hit
every bit the part. The sharing platters change building around the corner. Now, options
Regency-era Netflix series with the harvest; you might find courgette range from snug singles to spacious doubles
fritti with ajo blanco (a gazpacho-style almond with freestanding tubs. Take the few steps to
IMAGES: GETTY; EMLI BENDIXEN; TOBY MITCHELL

soup), or ravioli with homemade ricotta, Bath Abbey, then return for a drink at Eight’s
Old Winchester cheese and runner beans. basement bar, once a refectory for the monks.
oakrestaurant.co.uk eightinbath.co.uk
£ £ £ T H E E L D E R : The decor of The Elder is £ £ £ T H E G A I N S B O RO U G H B AT H S PA :
reminiscent of a hunting lodge, with mounted This is the only hotel in Bath to have access to
stag heads and equestrian paintings. It pairs the city’s thermal waters, but there are extra
nicely with the set menu, which features wild reasons to book a stay in 2025. For six days in
Clockwise from above: The Great
game and seasonal ingredients, from Cornish spring and autumn, guests can join special
Bath, the main pool at the Roman
Baths; candles for sale at Always bass to Cotswold fallow venison, served events, from a dance workshop to a day trip to
Sunday; punts on the River Avon; across seven courses. Take your time with Austen’s family home in Hampshire. Devotees
middleground cucumbers, fresh each — tables are reserved for the entire night. can even hire Regency attire in advance.
cream cheese and dill at Oak theelder.co.uk thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 151
B AT H

200 yards
The Royal Crescent
No.1 Royal Crescent
The Bath Assembly Rooms
The Circus
Royal Victoria
Walcot Street
Park
The Jane Austen Centre

Pulteney Bridge

B A T H The Rec

R
iv
e
Roman Baths

r
Av
on
UNITED
KINGDOM

l
na
LONDON

Ca
Bath

on
Ken

Av
ne t &
Alexander Park
500 yards

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Bath Spa railway station, the city’s main
transport hub, is conveniently located
in the centre. Great Western Railway
serves the city and the wider South
West region with regular services from
Bristol, London and Oxford. gwr.com
Average journey time from London:
1h25m.
Bath operates a Clean Air Zone in
the centre. Visitors coming by car
are encouraged to make use of one
of three Park & Ride services; the car
parks are located a 10-minute drive
from the centre, and buses operate at
least every 15 minutes.
Bath’s centre is walkable, and most
hotels, restaurants, shops and
The Hideout, a whisky attractions are some 10 minutes on
and cocktail bar foot from each other. Buses and taxis
link the centre to the suburbs; a PlusBus
pass gives unlimited travel on most
buses in Bath’s urban area from £4.30
AFTER HOURS L I K E A LO C A L per day with a valid train ticket.
T H E B E L L I N N : When this live music pub L A N D R AC E : The word ‘landrace’ refers to
on Walcot Street faced closure in 2013, wild, hyper-local crop varieties — a fitting WHEN TO GO
536 customers and workers rallied behind name for this popular Walcot Street bakery. Bath is a great city break year round,
a community buyout scheme backed by stars It produces all its flour with a custom-built but the summer shoulder seasons (May
like Robert Plant — at the time, the biggest mill, using wheat sourced from farmers to June, and September to October)
pub buyout in Britain. It was a measure experimenting with speciality grains south are arguably the best times to visit.
of the venue’s popularity, and little has of the city. Grab one of their deliciously This is when temperatures are mild
changed since. Sit in the intimate indoor tangy sourdough loaves to go, or sit in the (15-20C) and crowds fewer. The
space or the spacious beer garden for local Upstairs bistro for ever-changing specials like shoulder seasons are also when the
ales and free shows multiple nights a week. homemade tagliatelle with Tuscan kale. city hosts many of its most popular
thebellinnbath.co.uk landrace.co.uk events. Its largest arts celebration,
T H E H I D E O U T: Legend has it this bar was B AT H B OAT I N G S TAT I O N : Explore a the Bath Festival, takes place over
once a hangout for outlaws. The decor plays on two-mile section of the River Avon aboard a 10 days in May, with music, author talks
the myth with touches like a piratical chest of Thames skiff, a wooden canoe that’s been used and more. The Jane Austen Festival
pistols and empty bottles — a fun contrast to for rowing on these waters since Victorian runs for 10 days in September; check
the menus styled like CD tracks and vinyl on times. Bath Boating Station, a 20-minute walk the website for special anniversary
IMAGE: EMLI BENDIXEN. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

the walls. Whisky is the speciality here; to help north of the centre, rents out boats, some of events in 2025, including themed
you choose from the 300-plus bottles, the staff which date from the 19th century. Afterwards, balls in summer and winter.
will bring over options to ‘nose’. relax with a picnic on its riverfront lawn. bathfestivals.org.uk janeausten.co.uk
hideoutbath.co.uk bathboating.co.uk From late November until mid-
T H E AT R E ROYA L B AT H : This is one of the S Y D N E Y G A R D E N S : This park is the oldest December, the city hosts a Christmas
UK’s oldest working theatres — and one of the in the city, as well as the only remaining market and lights up with festive
finest in the South West. If visiting in April, Georgian pleasure garden (designed for decorations. Bath Abbey hosts
catch a performance of Pride and Prejudice* public entertainment) in the country. Its early 20-minute traditional carol services.
(*sort of), a comic retelling of the Austen classic. patrons included Jane Austen, who lived bathabbey.org
In June and July, keep an eye out for a season directly opposite at 4 Sydney Place. Follow
of productions directed by, or starring, in her footsteps and stroll along the Kennet MORE INFO
Oscar-nominated actor Ralph Fiennes. & Avon Canal, the city’s other waterway. visitbath.co.uk
theatreroyal.org.uk bathnes.gov.uk visitwest.co.uk

152 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Explore

ancient baths
a nd

sacred springs
in the heart of

Georgian Bath
Only 80 minutes from London Paddington

www.romanbaths.co.uk Booking online is advisable

A Curated
Palette of
Experiences
COLOURS OF OBLU invites you on a
carefree and relaxed island holiday. With
the vibrant tropical spirit infused in every
moment of your journey – from lush, natural
surroundings and flavours of the cuisine to
warmth of the people and memorable
experiences to share with loved ones.
For more
Information

E: [email protected]
W W W.C O L O U R S O F O B L U .C O M
 T R AV E L TA L K

A S K THE E XPE RTS

NEED ADVIC E FO R YO U R NE X T TRIP ? ARE YO U AF TER RECOM MEN DATI O N S ,
TI P S AND G U IDAN C E ? O U R E XPERT S HAVE TH E AN SWER S …

TH E
E X PE RT S

Zoey Goto
Freelance travel writer

Sassy Wyatt
Accessibility consultant
and founder of Blind Girl
Adventures

Nicola Trup
Editor, Food by National
Geographic Traveller (UK)

I’ll be staying in Salt Lake City for paradise for bargain-hunters, with Drive 15 minutes out of town for
the Sundance Film Festival. What everything from vintage gems at bobsledding at Utah Olympic Park,
should I do while I’m in town? The Other Side Thrift Boutique site of the 2002 Olympic Winter
Richard Hammond This year’s screenings take place to The Gear Room, a one-stop- Games. Skiers can pre-buy an Epic
Founder of throughout Park City and Salt Lake shop for second-hand outdoorsy Pass to hit the powdery slopes,
Green Traveller City, so you’re well placed. The clothing — perfect for picking up which are refreshingly empty during
latter was founded by Mormon extra layers for your next stop, the festival. Adult day passes from
pioneers in 1847, so be sure to Park City, where further Sundance $119 (£94). utaholympiclegacy.org
delve into the religion with a visit screenings takes place and epicpass.com
to Temple Square. Daily tours of temperatures can plummet to -10C And if you’re already visiting
the domed silver tabernacle are in January. thegallivancenter.com Sundance Mountain Resort for
led by female missionaries, while mavendistrict.com a film preview, be sure to stop
on Thursday evenings and Sunday theothersidethriftboutique.com at the onsite Owl Bar, a restored
mornings a free choir rehearsal thegearroomslc.com 1890s saloon where rootin’ tootin’
sees 360 robed performers take to Main Street in Park City is about Butch Cassidy once propped up
the stage. 40 minutes from Salt Lake City. It’s the bar. With a couple of hours to
Lace up your skates at the easiest to catch an Uber or Lyft there spare, stretch your legs on a hike
Clockwise from above:
IMAGES: GETTY; BOB NAGEL

Gallivan Center, where there’s an as parking is scarce. For a chance to Stewart Falls. The four-mile trail
The Mormons regarded
outdoor ice-skating rink festooned to rub shoulders with the likes of rewards with big-screen views and
Salt Lake City as their
with twinkling lights. Alternatively, Sundance Institute founder Robert was once used as a backdrop in
holy city; a black-tailed
godwit in Devon; head to nearby Maven District, a Redford, head to The Vintage Jeremiah Johnson, a 1972 classic
mushroom salad with mural-clad block of restaurants Room, an alpine-fresh hangout western starring leading man
smoked tofu cream at and coffee shops run entirely by where Hollywood stars mingle. Redford. sundanceresort.com
Cornerstore, Amsterdam women. Salt Lake City is also a srdvdining.com ZO E Y G OTO

156 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Where would you suggest via a simple phone app. of classical, jazz and flamenco
for our partially sighted barcelonabusturistic.cat performances. Even Plaça de
daughter’s first solo trip navilens.com Catalunya, Barcelona’s bustling
abroad? Barcelona’s blend of Be sure to experience the central square, is made easily
accessibility and vibrant culture city’s famed architecture. At navigable with an assistive
makes it a wonderful place to La Sagrada Família and device for traffic-light control,
encourage your daughter’s La Pedrera — both designed available from the nearby
independence. Public transport by Antoni Gaudí — tactile tourist information office.
is inclusive and easy to use: models allow blind visitors to sagradafamilia.org
the hop-on, hop-off Barcelona feel the contours of the Catalan lapedrera.com palaumusica.cat
Bus Turístic offers an audio architect’s surreal creations. For accommodation, try
guide in 16 languages, while Meanwhile, in Sant Pere district, the NH Collection Barcelona
the NaviLens system provides Palau de la Música Catalana, Constanza in leafy Les Corts,
audio navigation cues across an art nouveau concert hall which has accessible amenities
metro stations and bus stops, completed in 1908, offers and braille signage. From €150
helping visually impaired barrier-free access, guided (£125). nh-collection.com
visitors explore independently tours and a varied programme S A S S Y W YAT T

Can you recommend some off-grid

cabins in the UK where I’m likely to
see plenty of birdlife this winter?
Can you recommend a culinary restaurant in a near 100-year- courgette and gremolata. One of the best spots can be
twin-city break travelling old greenhouse. Here, fruit Rooms from €122.50 (£102). found near the town of Tiverton
via rail? Amsterdam and and vegetables grown by the morganandmees.com in Devon. Here, a DIY woodland
Rotterdam make for the restaurant or local farmers are Among the city’s management enterprise known as
perfect pairing, not least the focus. Or try Cornerstore in eight Michelin-starred the Bulworthy Project has a lovely
because the Dutch capital is hip north Amsterdam, where establishments is the two- two-person cabin set in its own
reachable by Eurostar direct DJs spin vinyl and the kitchen star François Geurds (FG) private glade. A pair of binoculars
from London St Pancras. Start turns out dishes like Sichuan Restaurant, where dishes and a selection of identification
with a stay at De Durgerdam mussels with halibut broth. such as venison with kimchi guides will help you spot birdlife
on the banks of Amsterdam’s restaurantdekas.com bonbons are dreamt up in an in this biodiverse area. Designated
Outer IJ, where De Mark csnoord.com on-site ‘flavour laboratory’. an area of Special Environmental
restaurant serves up dishes A 1h40m train takes you to Finally, don’t miss Fenix Food Importance by UNESCO, the North
with a low-waste, seasonal and Rotterdam. Stay at Morgan Factory, with its food market, Devon Biosphere welcomes over-
local ethos. Rooms from €302 & Mees, a Bauhaus-style brewery and zero-waste wintering wildfowl and waders
(£251). dedurgerdam.com boutique hotel that’s home to restaurant. fgrestaurant.nl such as snipe and woodcock. From
In the city proper, head for an all-day restaurant serving fenixfoodfactory.nl £130. bulworthy.uk
De Kas, a Michelin-starred dishes like orzo with fried NICOL A TRUP Another off-grid gem is the
solar- and wind-powered Birch Eco
Cottage in County Down, Northern
Ireland. You’ll find the wood-
panelled lodge on Lacken Cottage
Farm, an organic smallholding
surrounded by birch woods and
backed by the rolling Mourne
Mountains — home to red kites
and sandy-collared snow buntings.
From £80. Minimum two-night stay.
lackancottage.co.uk
For wildfowl, head to the Avalon
Marshes in the Somerset Levels,
one of the largest lowland wetlands
in Britain, where varied habitats
provide a home for a huge number
of bird species. The Scrumpling
is a stylishly refurbished vintage
caravan in two acres of private
woodland and meadow not far
from Glastonbury. Inside, you’ll find
thick throws and a blackboard for
recording bird-sightings. The area
is known for its murmurations, when
clouds of starlings swirl across the
sky. From £190 for minimum two-
night stay. thescrumpling.co.uk
RICHARD HAMMOND

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 15 7
 T R AV E L TA L K

HOT TOPIC

Rising travel costs

W H E TH ER IT ’ S FLI G HT S , H OTEL S O R D E S TI N ATI O N TA X E S , TR AVELLER S K EEN TO
SEE TH E WO RLD ARE N OW PAYIN G MO RE. HERE’ S WHAT YO U NEED TO KN OW

Inflation is on everyone’s mind.

In addition to booming post-
pandemic demand, it has pushed
up holiday prices — worsened by
conflict in Eastern Europe and the
Middle East triggering fuel price
spikes and supply shortages.
Between July 2023 and July 2024,
the cost of a European package
break went up by an average
of 6.6% according to EU agency
Eurostat, and similar trends are
forecast for flights and hotels. From
2025, there are also ancillary costs
such as new tourist taxes on the
horizon. But is it all bad news?

What’s making flights cost more?

In its October 2024 budget, the
UK government announced that,
from 2026, air passenger duty for
anyone aged over 16 will increase
by about 15% to ‘account for
previous high inflation’. While the
tax on domestic and short-haul
flights — in economy, £8 and £15
respectively — looks modest, all over the world, with not enough What about hotel prices? More than 2,500 new hotels are
it’s £102 and £106 each way for supply to meet customer demand, Spiking worldwide since 2022, the expected to open by the end of
mid- and long-haul. Meanwhile, ultimately meaning higher prices ‘revenge travel’ trend — making 2024, with an additional 2,700 by
France has proposed to triple its for consumers. up for lost time post-pandemic the close of 2025.
aviation tax from 2025 to address — pushed demand sky high. But
a budget deficit, with the price of What about the green transition? there are more reasons for this. Are there any other costs? Tourist
an economy ticket up to £33 pricier From 2027, most flights will be In Japan, for example, the weak taxes have become common, and
for long haul, and Denmark will subject to the International Civil yen drove incoming travel and Thailand will join the 60-plus list of
launch a new flight tax in 2025 as Aviation Organization’s Carbon therefore demand, particularly charging destinations from mid-
part of its green transition — this Offsetting and Reduction Scheme, from its East Asian neighbours. 2025. Meanwhile in Venice, the day-
will be phased into effect, costing which requires airlines in its 126 In New York City, government tripper tax introduced last April will
up to £45 by 2030. Though paid member states to offset growth policy reduced supply. Previously, increase from €5 (£4) to €10 (£8) in
by airlines, the cost is ultimately in CO2 emissions above set levels. Airbnbs accounted for 10% of April 2025 for those who don’t pre-
passed onto passengers. Fuel suppliers at European Union accommodation, according to pay. “I can see beach destinations,
airports will also need to increase The New York Times, but recent not just cities, implementing
What else? After certain versions the Sustainable Aviation Fuel in crackdowns on short-term rentals tourist taxes soon,” says Paul Scott,
of Boeing 737-9 MAX jets were their mixes — comprising 2% from have forced a shift back to hotels, founder of My Budget Break.
grounded over safety concerns 2025 and going up to 70% by 2050. increasing demand. Higher More countries are also using
in January 2024, the US Federal All this will mean additional operating costs caused by post- electronic travel authorisations
Aviation Authority banned costs, partly due to the necessary Covid staff shortages and soaring to vet incomers, following the
makers Boeing from ramping technological upgrades. But Martin energy prices have also obliged US, Canada and New Zealand’s
up production, hampering the Nolan, Skyscanner’s sustainability operators to put up prices. lead. The EU is expected to launch
company’s ability to meet delivery expert, says it should only have While room rates will continue to its long-delayed version, the
schedules. Airbus also struggled a “modest impact” on passenger rise in 2025, the latest Hotel Monitor European Travel Information and
IMAGE: ALAMY

to stay on schedule due to a fares. “Ultimately, supply and report from Amex GBT Consulting Authorisation System (ETIAS), in
shortage of engines and other demand will always be the key predicts they’re set to level out 2025. Users will pay €7 (£6) every
components. The resulting lack of driver when it comes to ticket thanks to a record number of three years to keep their ETIAS
new aircraft has impacted airlines prices,” he says. properties being built worldwide. valid. Q I N X I E

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 159
T R AV E L TA L K

THE INFO

BRITI SH R AILWAYS
With 2025 marking 200 years since the launch of the UK’s — and the world’s — first
steam-powered passenger railway, we take a look at the world of British rail travel

Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch

The train station with the longest name in the UK. It serves
a small village on the Isle of Anglesey in Wales

72 miles 1,339 feet

TH E LE N GTH O F TH E S E T TLE TO
C A RLI S LE LI N E . TH E RO U TE TA K E S TH E E LE VATI O N O F S COTL A N D ’ S
I N V I STA S O F TH E YO RK S H I RE C O RRO U R STATI O N , TH E H I G H E ST
DA LE S A N D N O RTH PE N N I N E S O F ANY UK MAINLINE STATION

21
3.5 million
The number of arches along the Glenfinnan
TH E N U M B E R O F PA S S E N G E R
J O U RN E YS M A D E BY TR A I N 3,140 feet
Viaduct. It appears in the Harry Potter films E V E RY DAY I N TH E U K , A RO U N D The height gain of the Snowdon Mountain
and forms part of the West Highland Line’s 70% O F W H I C H STA RT O R Railway, which runs almost to the summit of
Glasgow to Mallaig route FI N I S H I N LO N D O N Yr Wyddfa in Wales’s Eryri National Park

THE EARLY DAYS OF BRITISH RAIL

WORDS: SAM KEMP. IMAGES: GETTY

1604 1769 1825 1829 1847

Huntingdon Beaumont Scottish inventor The Stockton and George Stephenson’s Standardised ‘railway
builds the UK’s first James Watt improves Darlington railway early steam locomotive, time’ is introduced.
recorded railway. The on previous designs opens, carrying 450 to ‘The Rocket’, achieves a It does away with local
Wollaton Wagonway ran to create the first truly 600 passengers on the record speed of 30mph time zones, which varied
on horsepower efficient steam engine inaugural journey during trials from town to town

Sources: bbc.co.uk britannica.com historicbridges.org hulltrains.co.uk island-publishing.co.uk networkrail.co.uk scotrail.co.uk settle-carlisle.co.uk snowdonrailway.co.uk

160 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
 R E P O RT

HOW TR AVEL
WILL LOOK IN 202 5
A I ITI N ER A R I E S A N D B U D G E T LO N G - H AU L FLI G HT S A R E A MO N G TH E
K E Y D E V ELO PMENT S S E T TO I N FLU EN C E TR AVEL I N TH E Y E A R A H E AD.
WO RDS: SAR AH BARRELL & O RL A TH OM A S

As attention turns to a new year, our closer to home have seen visitors return with
enthusiasm for exploring the world remains a vengeance. The issue of overtourism is here
undiminished. United Nations agency UN to stay, but, it seems, where there’s a will
Tourism forecasts that at the close of 2024, to travel, there’s a way. And trends such as
travel will have finally bounced back to pre- season-stretching or shoulder-season travel are
pandemic levels — and may even have taken gaining momentum, thanks to a growing desire
baby steps to exceeding 2019 figures — even to keep exploring despite challenges such as
as the planet faces continuing geopolitical increasing costs and new entry systems.
tensions, economic uncertainty and volatile Technology, transport and accommodation
weather patterns. So, what next? will all be in the spotlight in 2025, too. While
Although we may have been packing our airlines, train companies and hoteliers
bags in droves, ‘the pace of recovery has continue to innovate, artificial intelligence is
been uneven’, according to a July report by making its presence felt in all stages of travel,
intergovernmental body the Organization including trip planning and booking. Here,
for Economic Cooperation and Development. take a look at what you can expect in 2025,
While some regions — including Australia from hotel subscriptions and TikTok
and New Zealand — were slow to open back travel to the rise of the ultra-no-frills
up after Covid, perennial travel favourites long-haul flight.

IMAGE: GETTY

1 62 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 DE STINATION S
P E A K S E A S O N I S O U T, ‘ C OW B OY C O R E ’ I S I N

Season-stretching
With recent summers hit by heatwaves and wildfires,
along with protests in tourist hotspots like Majorca and
Amsterdam, travellers are increasingly drawn to ‘season-
stretching’ — also known as off-peak or shoulder-season
travel. British Airways Holidays has reported that between
2023 and 2024, searches for travel in May and June increased
twice as much compared to searches for travel in July and
August, while 45% of those surveyed said they were more
likely to travel off-peak in 2025. The European Travel
Commission, which has reported increases in off-season
travel since 2022, noted that 73% of Europeans plan to travel
between October 2024 and March 2025, up 6% compared to
the same period last year. Budget is another reason for this,
with 23% of European travellers saying rising costs were their
biggest concern in 2023-24 — off-peak is cheaper. Which?
found those booking a 2023 summer package holiday paid on
average 19% more than 2022, and prices are still rising.

Destination dupes
‘Destination dupes’ have been big on social media, with
400,000 posts on TikTok alone currently using the
hashtag to suggest cheaper, less busy alternatives to
popular destinations — the Greek island of Paros instead
of Santorini, for example. And operators are capitalising on
the trend, including Intrepid Travel, which launched a ‘not
hot’ list showcasing lesser-visited destinations for 2025.
“We’re noticing travellers seeking under-the-radar
destinations that offer similar experiences to tourist
hotspots,” says Zina Bencheikh, Intrepid Travel’s managing
director EMEA. Albania for Greece was one of TikTok’s
top-trending travel dupes of 2024, and the operator has
reported an 84% increase in bookings to the destination
this year. “We’ve also seen bookings to Guatemala double
compared to earlier this year,” says Bencheikh. “With its
Maya ruins and diverse landscapes, it’s an alternative to
more popular Central American countries.”

Frontier tourism
Our post-Covid love of open spaces seems here to stay, with
a May 2024 report from the World Economic Forum singling
out biophilia (the instinct to seek connections with nature)
as a key factor in choosing where we travel. This taps into
the ongoing trend for ‘frontier tourism’ — visiting remote
locations. One of 2024’s defining cultural trends, thanks
in part to the Yellowstone TV series and Beyoncé’s Cowboy
Carter album, ‘cowboy core’ has found its way firmly into
the travel market. Skyscanner even added a ‘horse riding’
‘Cowboy core’ is set to
be a key trend in 2025, filter into its search engine last summer, reporting that a
complemented by quarter of its users listed ‘eating around a campfire’ and
travellers’ post-pandemic ‘sleeping under the stars’ as the experiences they were
love of wide, open spaces most excited about for 2025.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 163
 R E P O RT

ACCOM MODATION
LOYA LT Y S C H E M E S A N D T H E R I S E O F T H E S U P E R S U I T E

Subscription models Luxury extras

Covering everything from music In the ultra-luxury sector,
and TV to newspapers and complimentary mini bars are
taxis, subscription models now the new normal. The Newt in
underpin the fabric of our daily Somerset has them stocked with
lives — and hotels are getting £40 bottles of The Winston, a
in on the act, offering VIP-style Champagne-style cider, while
perks like upgrades, freebies vesper martinis are among the
and discounts in exchange for a premium tipples on offer at Aman
Europe is seeing a
recurring fee. Accor’s ALL Plus New York. And it doesn’t stop
sleeper train revival
Voyageur scheme launched in with consumables — at The Ritz
Below: Rates at top
2023 and grants users these Paris, guests get monogrammed London hotels, such as
perks across 22 of its brands, pillows, while those booking into Raffles London at The
ranging from Ibis budget hotels to the Airelles Val d’Isère receive a OWO, regularly exceed
boutique hotel chain MGallery. top-of-the-range ski jacket. £1,000 a night
Offering affordable luxury With the rich getting richer (The
hotels in major cities, from Economist forecasts the number of
Paris to New York, citizenM’s dollar millionaires is set to double

TR AN S PORT
membership model is similarly in places including India and
“value-driven”, says the Brazil by 2030), there’s apparently
company’s chief product officer no ceiling on what the super-rich
Casper Overbeek. An annual fee will pay. The Royal Mansion mega R A I L OV E RTA K E S A I R T R AV E L F O R C OM F O RT
of £90 entitles subscribers to suite at Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal,
15% off rooms, as well as other for example, costs £80,000 a night,
perks like food discounts, late while rates at top London hotels Budget long-haul
checkout and free co-working. — including newcomer Raffles For decades, those facing a long-haul flight in economy could
In the year ahead, “travellers London at The OWO — regularly at least comfort themselves with the prospect of a meal, a
will increasingly value flexible, exceed £1,000. The UK capital film and a snooze. But the launch of Wizz Air’s service from
predictable pricing and seamless remains a hub for high-end hotels, Gatwick to the Saudi Arabian city of Jeddah on 31 March
experiences”, says Overbeek. “As with new venues in 2025 set to may well signal the beginning of the end for any modicum
the line between business and include the first UK Six Senses of comfort for budget flyers. “Roll on the arrival of Europe’s
leisure travel continues to blur, we property and Cambridge House, longest budget flight,” says Ben Clatworthy, transport
see strong potential for this model a hotel and members’ club from correspondent at The Times. Passengers will make the seven-
to appeal to a wider market.” Auberge Resorts Collection. hour journey in the Airbus A321XR, which can fly further
than previous models. To keep costs low, seats are high
density and won’t recline. “It will be fascinating to see what
demand is like on the route,” adds Clatworthy.

Air travel alternatives

The data on the carbon impact of air travel makes for
uncomfortable reading — you could get the train from
London to Edinburgh and back five times and your
footprint would still be lower than if you flew — so it’s no
wonder travellers continue to seek sustainable alternatives.
Sleeping as you travel is not only more time-efficient, it
also saves the cost of a night’s accommodation. “Europe’s
sleeper train revival continues,” says Clatworthy, “and
mini cabins or pods — modelled on East Asian capsule
IMAGES: ALAMY; RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO

hotels — have become a standout trend. Train designers

are aware that these days people aren’t keen on spending
the night with strangers.”
Several new luxury trains will make their first
departures in 2025 — including La Dolce Vita, with eight
routes through Italy, and Norway’s pleasingly named
Norient Express, from Bergen to Trondheim — while in
the US Amtrak has just launched The Floridian. It offers
several private rooms for the 47 hours it takes to get from
Chicago to Miami. These new trips reflect a growing market
for train-based holidays — flight-free travel operator Byway
has seen bookings almost double in the past year.

JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 165
R E P O RT

TEC HNOLOGY
A I A N D T I K TO K V S T H E D I G I TA L D E TOX

Artificial intelligence further “streamline the process travellers go, where they stay and
AI is the technology likely to of booking tickets and create what they spend,” says journalist
have the biggest impact on travel more dynamic pricing”. Keeping and TikTok user Lottie Gross.
in 2025, with its capabilities tabs on demand to automatically
increasing “every two to three adjust the price of a ticket “could Digital detox
months”, according to Jeremy make air travel cheaper — or more On the flip side, travellers are
White, senior innovation editor expensive”, he says. The impact of increasingly keen to disconnect.
at Wired magazine. Back-office tech company Anthropic’s new AI Online marketing tool Keywords
functions like process automation assistant, Claude, will also be felt Everywhere saw searches for
and staff training are AI’s natural in the year ahead. “A competitor ‘digital detox’ more than triple
remit, says White, but travel to ChatGPT, its beta model — just between 2023 and 2024, while
companies are increasingly launched — has the facility to Airbnb reported, at the start
saving time and money by using it take control of your computer,” of 2024, a near 100% year-on-
to write website sales blurbs and says White. “It’s slow now, but it’ll year rise in searches for ‘off-
personalised itineraries. speed up. Soon, it’ll be able to book grid accommodation’. “Digital
Tech-savvy travellers already your holiday for you — clicking on distraction is a public health
use models like ChatGPT as a sort buttons, filling in forms.” There problem,” says Hector Hughes, co-
of AI concierge, says White. “You are some obvious downsides to founder of Unplugged, a collection
can say ‘I’m in Rome next week, this, though — any system is open of off-grid cabins that come
staying in this neighbourhood, to the risk of fraud. equipped with a phone lock box,
and these are the activities I Instax camera, books and games.
like’ — and watch it spit out an TikTok travel “Smart phones and social media
itinerary.” But we’re also starting For travellers who still take have been engineered to keep
to see AI making more specific pleasure in planning, social media people online and inside. But the
recommendations — suggesting will remain an important source of awareness of this is growing and
events taking place during a inspiration. TikTok is among the people are recognising that their
traveller’s visit, for instance. “AI fastest-growing platforms — with devices distract them from the joys
is increasingly able to make its visual storytelling and knack of daily life.” Responding to a 25%
Above: Artificial
on-the-money tangential for community engagement, the rise in bookings in the past year,
intelligence can
IMAGE: GETTY

suggestions,” White adds. He also app has seen a 410% increase in Unplugged has plans to expand increasingly be used
anticipates that software company travel content views since 2021. “In in 2025, doubling its number of as a kind of ‘virtual
Flyr, which harnesses AI tech 2025, TikTok will continue to grow cabins to 60 and adding further concierge’ to craft
for airlines and hospitality, will as a platform, influencing where options in Europe. travel itineraries

166 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
PETER SOMMER

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| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R AG E N Z I A R E G I O N A L E P U G L I A P R O M OZ I O N E

ITALY
A taste of Puglia
From bustling gastronomic cities to hidden local markets, uncover Italy’s diverse
and delicious cuisine on a tour of Puglia’s towns. Words: Natasha Bazika
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R AG E N Z I A R E G I O N A L E P U G L I A P R O M OZ I O N E

I
n Puglia, food is more than simple MOLFETTA packed with cave churches and crypts. Above
sustenance; it’s a cultural heritage Once a medieval trading centre connecting ground, the town is known for its olive groves
passed down through generations. Venice, Alexandria and Constantinople, and dairy products. The region’s high-quality
This southern Italian region, which Molfetta is now Puglia’s premier fishing milk, sourced from breeds like the Bruna
resembles a boot heel, is characterised by hub and a seafood-lover’s dream. The city’s cow, is used to create a variety of artisanal
two distinct landscapes — its sparkling architecture features fishbone-shaped alleys cheeses like the braided treccia and the local
coastline and its undulating interior. On the and the striking Duomo di San Corrado, favourite, knot-shaped nodini mozzarella.
shores, charming beaches and fresh seafood which overlooks the port and its bustling
abound, while inland, the hills are peppered Mercato Minuto Pesce. Even if you don’t buy NARDÒ
with vineyards and ancient olive groves. anything, the lively atmosphere and sight of This quiet town is considered the gateway to
Extra virgin olive oil is undeniably the star fishermen selling their the catch are reason Puglia and is just a three-hour drive from the
of any Apulian table, but wherever you go, enough to visit. Indulge in fresh seafood at trulli village of Alberobello and the historic,
you’ll also find a characterful town with a one of the many local restaurants, where you sunny streets of Lecce. In Nardò itself, you
culinary signature — here are six to savour. can try dishes featuring sea bass, octopus, can explore baroque squares and the 15th-
cuttlefish and regional pasta like ear-shaped century moated fortress, Castello Aragonese.
LUCERA orecchiette and gnocchi-like cavatelli. Stop along the way for a pasticciotto, a
Perched atop the Tavoliere tableland, the traditional pastry piped with creamy custard.
ancient walls of Lucera protect architectural CEGLIE MESSAPICA You’ll see locals savouring this iconic Nardò
sites like the 13th-century Cathedral of Santa Ceglie Messapica is one of the region’s oldest treat — found in most bakeries — at breakfast
Maria Assunta and the Palazzo Vescovile. towns, dating back to the 15th century BC. or in the afternoon.
However, it’s the fertile soil surrounding the Visitors can expect a large, well-preserved
town that brings its finest attractions. The historic centre and a rural heritage that From left: View of the town of Minervino Murge;
Uva di Troia grape that’s grown here is the shines through in its cuisine. Deemed the a plate of fresh sea urchins; fishing boats by
star ingredient in the DOC Cacc’e Mmitte culinary capital of Puglia, there are endless the shore of Monopoli, near Bari
IMAGES: REGIONE PUGLIA LEONARDO D’ANGELO; PAOLO PENNI MARTELLI

di Lucera wine, a light ruby red nectar with award-winning restaurants here, offering a
an intense aroma and a dry, slightly warm taste of tradition and innovation, thanks to
flavour. And since Lucera lacks souvenir an influx of talented up-and-coming chefs. PLAN YOUR TRIP
shops, it’s the ideal memento to bring home. Whether eating in an old-school trattoria or
a modern dining room, be sure to order the Fly direct from a number of UK cities
MINERVINO MURGE region’s iconic dish, biscotti cegliese, a type to the Apulian hubs of Bari or Brindisi.
Known as ‘the balcony of Puglia’, Minervino of biscuit made using almond paste, filled Once there, the weareinPUGLIA app lists
Murge is another elevated Apulian town with grape jam or cherries. The biscotti is nearby sights, eateries and activities. For
with panoramic vistas. Explore romantic a cherished tradition, and local artisans more information, visit: weareinpuglia.it
whitewashed laneways before visiting the continue to craft each biscuit by hand.
Grotto of San Michele Arcangelo, a sacred
cave carved into the rock. Visit during GINOSA
autumn or winter for food festivals dedicated A sandy-coloured town amid the Murge
to the cardoncello (king trumpet) mushroom. Plateau, Ginosa shares its rocky landscapes
Though these fungi can be found elsewhere, with the famous cave town of Matera, in
locals insist that those from Minervino the nearby region of Basilicata. Ginosa’s
Murge have a unique, earthy flavour. Try community also once lived in caves, making
them raw, fried, roasted or tossed with pasta. it one of Italy’s most important rock villages,

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
 NEW YEAR OFFER
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Mongolian felt around it fairly extensively. I particularly liked an enjoyable road trip through Spain, starting
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to combine traditional as kapok, and even a castor-bean nylon jacket.
Mongolian craftsmanship I travelled to Oslo by boat, with some of the
with a modern look. All items I bought, and it led me to think of the
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JA N/ F EB 2 0 2 5 17 7
 COOK ISLANDS

HOW I GOT THE SHOT

A D R I EN N E PIT T S O N D I S TI LLI N G TH E C RE ATIV E EN ERGY O F
TH E PAC I FI C ARC H IPEL AG O FO R O U R DEC E MB ER 2024 I S SU E

Tell us about this image.

This was taken on Aitutaki, one of the 15 islands
that make up the Cook Islands. While driving
through the centre of town, I saw the traffic
had come to a complete standstill. People with
guitars were jumping off the back of utes and
gathering in a nearby field, so of course I jumped
out to join them. These dancers turned out to
be students from the local college who were
performing to raise money for a new printer.

How did you achieve the shot?

It was late afternoon when I took this shot.
There was lovely sunshine, but the scene was
harshly backlit by the sun reflecting off the
ocean. I knew I’d have to compensate for that, so
I dialled up my exposure to ensure the dancers
were clearly visible. I was also acutely aware of
somehow being in the way, so I made a point of
staying low and shooting from behind groups of
people, which I find emphasises the feeling of
being immersed in the crowd.

Were there any other challenges at play?

Many of the dancers and audience members
were teenagers, who tended to ham it up
once they spotted my camera. I was happy
to take these shots, interacting with people
as long as they liked, but I also kept moving
to get different angles and expressions. I’m
keen for people to know I’m not there just to
take something from them. I sat and watched
the performance for a good amount of time,
cheering and marvelling at the talent on display.

What advice would you give

aspiring photographers?
Start shooting your holidays as if you have a
client paying you to be there. Use your break to
your advantage. Consider the light; get up for
sunrise and see how it hits the landscape. Ask
yourself what intrigues you about the destination
and document it all. Who are the people? What
does the food taste like? You can do all of this
at home, too. A good travel photographer can
shoot portraits, landscapes and food in any
order, anywhere and at any time.

Canon 5D Mark III with a EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM lens View the full shoot and interview online at
nationalgeographic.com/travel
@hellopoe

I S U B M I T YO U R P H OTO G R A P H Y F O R C O N S I D E R AT I O N AT P H O T O G R A P H Y@ N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . C O . U K

178 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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