TLE 10C Q2 L 3- Sleeves

Sleeves are the important fixture of fashion design and garment making that have both aesthetic
and practical functions. Sleeve designs can be created in any fabric and any style and they are a crucial
element of a garment’s look and silhouette.
https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-are-the-different-types-of-sleeves-in-fashion
Sleeves are both functional and design elements of a garment. As functional elements, sleeves
must allow for freedom of movement and comfort and must enhance the overall purpose of the garment. As
design elements, sleeves should compliment the bodice to which they are attached.
https://www.wildginger.com/pdffiles/dfpbook.pdf

III. Lesson Proper:

The sleeves are those parts of the garment covering the arms. The dress silhouette is determined
not only by the skirt but also by the sleeves (Paragas 2002).
A sleeve is the part of a clothing item, whether a dress, blouse, jacket, sweater and more, that covers
the arm. Sleeves can come in a variety of lengths—short, mid-length, or long.
 All sleeves have an opening at the end that the hand and arm pass through, and sometimes the
sleeve extends beyond the hand.
 Sleeves can be either tight or loose, depending on the style of the sleeve.
 A garment that ends at the shoulder line is generally referred to as sleeveless.
https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-are-the-different-types-of-sleeves-in-fashion#what-are-sleeves

At a practical level, sleeves simply serve to cover and protect the arms and shoulders, keeping
them out of the sun or providing a level of warmth. Beyond their practical function, different styles of
sleeves add to a garment’s silhouette and style and can create movement and structure to the piece.
Some types of sleeves:
1. Set in sleeve- is a normal sleeve with a high rounded sleeve cap. The sleeve is attached
after the bodice and the sleeve is finished.
2. Raglan sleeves- This is a sleeve joined to the bodice with a diagonal seam running from the
underarm front and back in to the neckline.
3. Cap sleeves-This is a sleeve which just about covers the top of the arm. It is a
short sleeve.
4. Bracelet sleeves (Three fourth sleeve) - This sleeve has a length between elbow and the
wrist. The whole idea is that when you wear this sleeve you can see your bracelet.
5. Cape sleeve / Circular sleeve- This is a shorter version of the bell sleeve, mostly shorter than
elbow – very flared. Flared sleeve ending a inch or so above the elbow is called capelet sleeves.
6. Puff sleeves- A full sleeve which may be long or short which is gathered at the top
and or hem. A puff look is given as a result of the gathers. https://sewguide.com/sleeve-
types/

Drafting the foundation pattern of sleeve:

Measurements needed: D A
1. Sleeve length
2. Upper arm girth
3. Lower arm girth

Procedure:
1. A B= Sleeve length E C
2. A C = Sleeve cap 4”
3. E C= Upper arm girth
4. D E =Front armhole B
5. D C= Back armhole
Quiz:
Answer the questions briefly but substantially. 5 points each= 15 points
1. What is a sleeve?
2. What are the two functions of sleeve?
3. Differentiate set-in sleeve, raglan sleeve and kimono sleeves.

Activities:
=Rubric: Effort, proportion and neatness= 4 points each= 20 points
1. Draw at least five (5) other designs of sleeves (short, ¾ length and long sleeves)

2. Make your own illustration of sleeve foundation pattern and indicate the steps in the diagram.

Lesson 4 - Collars
 Collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fasten around or frames the neck or an article
of dress, separate or attached to the garment which may be of lace or fabric, straight draped or shaped
and worn around the neck.
Collars are both functional and decorative features sewn to the neckline of a garment. As
decoration, the collar is often the focal point of the garment drawing the eye upward to frame the face. As a
functional feature, collars often provide warmth and protection from the elements.

Types of Collar: Parts of a collar:

1. The Chelsea is a medium to wide cut collar. The ends are
squared off at the tips and it is attached to a v- neckline
2. Peter Pan collar-A very common rolled collar that lies flat on
the neck and has curved edges. It is a small delicate
collar. The Puritan collar is a wider version of the Peter Pan
collar.
3. Convertible collars are adaptable. As the name suggests, it
can lay flat and open or be buttoned up.
4. The crew is a short standing collar that is attached all around
the neckline. Sometimes made in rib trim it is more of a neck
trim than a collar.
5. Notched collar-The design is based on the
lapel collar shape and is usually attached
to blazers and shirt blouses.
6. Pointed flat collar-This collar is a narrow
cut collar with squared ends at the center
front of the collar dropping from a round
neckline.
7. Mandarin collar-A stand-up style of collar
adapted from the Chinese mandarin
traditional collar. There is a slit in the
front of the collar with curved edges
8. Ruffle collar- A gathered or pleated piece
of fabric forms the ruffle round the
neckline. Sometimes called the millstone
collar.
9. Sailor collar- A flat collar based on one of
the sailors’ uniforms. This style was made
popular in the Victorian era for children. It
is made of square panels that fold down
from the neckline.

https://blog.treasurie.com/types-of-collars/

Quiz: Name the types of collar in the pictures: (2 points each=12 points)
1) ________________________
2) _______________________ 3) _____________________

4) ___________________________
5) ______________________ 6)
________________________

Activity: (20 points)

Directions: Draw the Peter Pan collar, convertible collar and sketch your own design of collar.
Peter Pan collar (5 points) Convertible collar (5 points) Create your own collar in a blouse

(10 points)

Lesson 6- Drafting the Bodice and Sleeve Basic/ Block Patterns of Ladies’ Blouse
 In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced
onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes
made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand
repeated use.
Pattern drafting is the process of creating a pattern by taking measurements from a person, form or
model, in order to create a foundation, which is a pattern used as basis for the design.
Measurements needed depend upon the garment that is being produced, because the more elaborate or
large a garment is, the more pattern pieces are required to create.
https://tailor.fandom.com/wiki/Drafting
The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based.
The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with
just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).
Kinds of Pattern:
1. Block/ Basic Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have been carefully taken from an
individual or from a model.
2. Construction pattern – the intervening step between the block and the final pattern. Designs are
complicated, construction patterns are sectioned.
3. Final pattern – provided with the necessary symbols that will guide the cutter on how to lay out the pattern
on the cloth. Symbols for darts, seam allowances, grain line, center fold, and notches and other markers
are used. https://lapparel.wordpress.com/lesson-3/kinds-of-pattern/

I. Measurements needed for the bodice:

1. Figure- from neck point to waist
2. Bust point height – neck point to bust point
3. Shoulder- shoulder tip point to the other shoulder tip point
4. Chest- from chest point to the other chest point
5. Bust point distance- from bust point to the other bust point
6. Bust- measure around the bust line
7. Waist- measure around the natural waistline
II. Draft the front and back basic patterns:
Procedure: (Front)
1. A B= Figure measurement
2. A C= Bust point height
3. A D= ½ of shoulder point width
4. A E= ½ of chest
5. A F= ¼ of bust + ½ inches ease
6. D G= 1 ½ inches
7. G H= 4 inches (Back) 13. A U= Shoulder blades point height
8. F I= ½ of shoulder point width 14. A T and B Q= ½ shoulder blades distance
9. A J and A K= 3 inches 15. Q Rand Q S= ½ inch ( width of dart)
10. C L and B M= ½ of Bust point distance 16. A V= ¾ inch (back depth of neckline)
11. M O and M N= ½ inch (1 inch width of dart) 17. H W= ½ inch
12. B P= ¼ of waist + 1 inch width of dart