Crochet
Crochet
Wings (make 2) In MR, sc 2, hdc, dc, ch 1, tr, ch 1, dc, hdc, sc 2 and FO.
Sew wings to body. Using black yarn, sew a small triangle beak to face.
DUCK
1. Green string, MR (6)
2. Inc (12)
3. Sc, inc (18)
4. 2 sc, Inc (24)
5. Sc
6. Sc
7. Sc
8. White, Sc
9. Brown yarn, 6sc, ch 2, inc to first 1st chain, sc back into st, 12sc, ch 2, inc
to first chain, sc back into st and 6sc (24) sow or put Eyes, between r6
and r7
10. Sc
11. 2sc, dec (18)
12. Sc, dec x2, Bo, sc, dec x2, Bo, dec, sc, dec (12) and stuffing
13. dec (6)
Sow and end and finished
Cat mittens:
Paw dote x10
1. MR (10) hdc
2. Sl st to fo
Flip stitch
Insert into the middle of the dc. Then do it in between the rows then keep on
doing.
Ribbing( do as many chains as you want but make sure u add one extra chain
before)
Chain five, add one more chain!, sc into the five chains and then skip a stitch
and slip stitch into the stitch to the left. Slip stitch 2 or 3 more, for a tighter fit
do 3 slip stitches and for a looser fit do 2 slip sts. now turnover. Now sc into the
front loop. For all 5 stitches. Ch 1 and turn work around. Do the same thing
and keep repeating. After both sides meet using ur hook insert to front loop
and the bach loop for the other side and slip stitch all the way and weave the
rest away and ur done.
Frog
1. Mr, Sc 6
2. Inc
3. Sc, inc
4. 2 sc, Inc
5. 3 sc, inc
6. Sc
7. Sc
8. Sc
9. 4 sc, inc
10. Sc
11. 4 sc, dec
12. 3sc, dec
13. 1 sc, dec
14. Stuff
15. dec
Eyes
1. Mr, sc 6
2. 2 inc, sc
3. Sc
4. 5 sc, 4 half double crochet
Belly
1. Mr, sc 6
2. Inc
3. Sc, inc
Baby pig
1. MR, Sc 6
2. Inc
3. Sc, Inc
4. 2 sc. inc
5. 7 sc, inc
6-13. Sc
Sew the left eye between R 3 and 4 on the 5th st
Sew the right between R 3 and 4 on the 14th stitch
14. Sc 7, dec
15. Sc 2, dec
16. Sc, dec
stuff
17. Dec
Fasten off and close the hole
Ear
1. MR, sc 4
2. Sc, inc
3. Sc
4. sc
Fasten off
Book mark
1. Slip knot, 8sc
2. 3 sc
3. 3c in one
4. 3 sc
5. Chain 1
6. Skip 2, 3sc
7. 3sc in one
8. 3 sc, skip 1
9. Chain 1
10. Repeat
Baby Penguin
1. Mr (6)
2. Inc (12)
3. Sc,inc (18)
4. 2sc, inc (24)
5. 3sc, inc (30)
6. 4sc, inc (36)
7. Sc all, B) 23, W) 2, B) 3, W) 2, B) 6
8. Sc all, B) 22, W) 4, B) 1, W) 4, B) 5
9. Same pattern as 8
10. Sc al, B) 21, W) 11, B) 4
11. 4 sc, inv dec (30)
12. Sc all, B) 19, W) 7, B) 4
13.
Chicken (Loop under) Always end with the last pattern (st)f
1. MR (8)
2. Inc, (16)
3. Sc, inc ,(24)c
4. 2 sc, inc (32)
5. 3 sc, inc (40)
6. Sc all BLO (40)
7. Sc all (40)c
8. Sc all (40)
9. Sc all (40)s
10. Sc all (40)
11. Sc all (40)
12. 3 sc, inv dec (32)
13. Sc all (32)
Stuffing and FO, leave long tail behind
Also add your safety eyes on the tip of the head part
For sewing, get the front loop of both stitches of the amigurumi, and
criss cross sow.
Comb
1. Insert crochet hook into the head 3 scs from the tip and grab
hook and ch 2
2. Turn the chicken around and do 3 dc in the next sc beside the 2
chs
3. Sc beside the dcs and sl and FO. Make sure you hide the
remaining
Beak
1. Just embroider around mouth 3 times and GO and hide the
remaining
Mini Heart
1. Magic ring
2. Ch 1
3. 3 dc
4. 3 hdc
5. Ch 1
6. Reverse back up
7. Ch 2
8. Slst into mr
9. FO
Octopus
Leggy frog
Instructions:
Round 1: 2 Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook. sc in next 5 ch. 4 hdc in last ch. Working
on the other side of the chain, sc in next 5 ch. hdc in last ch. (18) (The 2 skipped
chains at the beginning of this round will count as a hdc. The marker you placed
in the 9th chain marks the top of this ch2/hdc.)
Round 2: sc2tog. Sc in the next 7 sts. sc2tog. Sc in the next 7 sts. (16)
Place safety eyes on the sides of the face between rows 1 and 2. embroider
cheeks about 1 stitch below each eye, 1 stitch across. Stitch mouth on face,
between rows 2 and 3, 2 or 3 stitches wide.
Round 5: Sc in the next 8 st (you may need to add one or more extra sc to get to
the side of your frog.) [ch 14. sc in 4th ch from the hook. (ch 3, sc in the same ch)
x 2. Sc in the next 10 chains.]
Working on the body of the frog again, sc in the next 8 sts. Note that if you had to
add a stitch or two, the stitch marker will be in the wrong place. That’s ok for this
round!!
Repeat arm. [ch 14. sc in 4th ch from the hook. (ch 3, sc in the same ch) x 2. Sc
in the next 10 chains.]
Round 6: Sc around (16) On this round, you will need to push the arms of the
frog to the outside so that you can place all of the sc on the body of the frog.
Round 7: Sc in the next 7 sts. sc inc. sc in the next 7 sts. sc inc. (18)
Row 12: If needed, make a few more sc so that you are on the side of the frog.
Make an arm/leg. [ch 14. sc in 4th ch from the hook. (ch 3, sc in the same ch) x 2.
Sc in the next 10 chains.]
Stuff frog body with a big handful of polyfill. Now we will be sewing a frog closed:
fold frog so that the open stitches on the bottom are together. Take the first 2
stitches that are closest to the leg just made. sl st through the back loops only.
Continuing with back loops only, sl st the next 6 stitches together.
Make another leg. [ch 14. sc in 4th ch from the hook. (ch 3, sc in the same ch) x
2. Sc in the next 10 chains.] sl st the last stitches together to close up your frog.
Finish off!
Pumpkin:
Round 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (24 sts)
Round 5: [sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (30 sts)
Round 6: [sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (36 sts)
Round 10: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 6 times (12 sts)
Cut the yarn and leave a tail to sew the opening shut. Weave in
the end.
Rabbit
HEAD
1: mr, sc 6 = [6]
2: inc x 6 = [12]
3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18]
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 = [24]
5: (sc 5, inc) x 4 = [28]
6: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 3, sc 4 = [32]
7-11: sc in each stitch = [32]
12: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 3, sc 4 = [28]
13: (sc 5, dec) x 4 = [24]
Attach safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, leaving 8 stitches (count 7 holes)
between them.
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing
the head firmly.
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing(DO NOT SEW
THE HOLE CLOSED!), and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly. Embroider the nose.
STRAIGHT EARS
1: mr, sc 6 = [6]
2: (inc, sc) x 3 = [9]
3: (sc 2, inc) x 3 = [12]
4-6: sc in each stitch = [12]
7: (dec, sc 4) x 2 = [10]
8: sc in each stitch = [10]
9: (dec, sc 3) x 2 = [8]
10: sc in each stitch = [8]
11: (dec, sc 2) x 2 = [6]
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do
not stuff the ears. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head, placing them just
below round 3.
FLOPPY EARS
1: mr, sc 6 = [6]
2: inc x 6 = [12]
3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18]
4: (sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc) x 2 = [22]
5: sc in each stitch = [22]
6: (dec, sc 9) x 2 = [20]
7: sc in each stitch = [20]
8: (dec, sc 8) x 2 = [18]
9: sc in each stitch = [18]
10: (dec, sc 7) x 2 = [16]
11: sc in each stitch = [16]
12: (dec, sc 6) x 2 = [14]
13: sc in each stitch = [14]
14: (dec, sc 5) x 2 =[12]
15: sc, flatten the ear and sc through both layers
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the ears to the
head, placing them just below round 6.
BODY
1: mr, sc 6 = [6]
2: inc x 6 = [12]
3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18]
4-9: sc in each stitch = [18]
10: (sc, dec) x 6 = [12]
Sl st in next stitch. Fasten off and hide the yarn tail. Stuff the body firmly. Sew the
head to the body. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam. Whip stitch the
body to the head.
1: mr, sc 6 = [6]
2: (inc, sc) x 3 = [9]
3-4: sc in each stitch = [9]
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Stuff the arms and legs firmly.
Sew the arms to the sides of the body, placing them one row below the head, and
the legs just above round 2 and a bit more towards the front of the body.
Capybara (▀̿Ĺ̯ ▀̿ ̿) (do not st over yarn while having to change colour)
1. Mr (8)
2. 2 Inc, change colour for ears on last st and ch4, tr in 4th ch from hook (When
you have 2 loops left while doing the treble crochet switch colours), 3 inc, and
repeat, but do not inc 2 more times.
3. 4 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc (22)
4. Sc
5. Sc
6. Inc, 20 sc, inc (24)
7. (Sc, inc) x2, 16 sc, (inc, sc) x2 (28)
8. 9 sc, 4 dec, 11 sc (24)
9. 10 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc (22)
10. 8 sc, (change colour on last st) 3 dc bobble, inc, sc, inc, 3 dc bobble, 9 sc
(after finishing the bobble st spike it up) (24)
11. 10 sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 10 sc (26)
12. Sc
13. Sc
14. Sc
15. Sc
16. Dec, 7 sc, 3 dc bobble, 7 sc, 3 dc bobble, 6 sc, dec (24)
17. In FLO, (2 sc, dec) x6 (18) (FLO for the rest of the rounds!)
18. Sc, dec (12) stuffing!!
19. Sc, dec (8)
Snout
1. Mr (12)
2. 10 sc, leave 2 unworked and FO
Sew in mouth like the bunny’s nose and sow in eyes too.
Round 2: Ch 3, turn your work, work 2 dc in ch space, ch 3 and work 1 cluster into the
same ch space. ch 1, *work 1 cluster, ch 3, work cluster into the same ch space. ch 1,
*rep until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
*always ch 1 before you move on to the next ch space.
Round 3: (“2 clusters in the corner” will always consist of 1 cluster, ch 3, 1 cluster
worked in the same ch space to create a corner) Don’t Forget!!,
Ch 3, turn your work, dc 2, ch 1(when you come to one of the 6 corners in your project
work 2 clusters in the corner) , Ch 1, *work 1 cluster, ch 1, work 2 clusters in the
corner, ch 1, *rep until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of the round.
Round 6: Ch 3, turn your work, 2 dc, ch 1, work 1 cluster, ch 1, work 2 clusters in the
corner, ch 1, *work 1 cluster, ch 1, work 1 cluster, ch 1, work 1 cluster, ch 1, work 1
cluster, ch 1, work 2 clusters, ch 1, *rep until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st
of the round.
You will repeat this pattern (1 cluster in every “edge” ch space and 2 clusters in every
“corner” ch space) until you have the number of rows for your desired width and
length of your cardigan!
I stopped at 20 rounds.
Each corner set of clusters will increase your number of clusters in each round, this
is how your project grows!
Video tutorial available here if you need better help visualising patterns.
After you finish your desired amount of rows, fasten off and repeat the same process
for the other half of your cardigan!
*If you are making a two-toned cardigan, make another side cardigan with the same
steps, just a different colour.
Scallop Edging
These steps for the scallop edging can be completely skipped over if you don’t like the
look of them!
Attach yarn to the upper opening of cardigan and ch 1 (see Youtube video if you need
help visualising it) and ch 1.
Round 1: Sc all the way around. 3 sc for each cluster and 1 sc for each ch 1 space
(stick to this sequence so your scallops will turn out right). When you come to a
corner, work 4 sc in ch space.
*If you are making a two-toned cardigan, sc around only half of the cardigan (it should
be easy to see which side is which by the seam made in the back of the cardigan) with
one colour yarn, and then switch to another colour yarn to finish sc around the
cardigan.
Round 2: Ch 1, sl st into that same st you chained in, sk st, *work 5 dc into same st,
sk st, sl st, sk st, *rep scallop stitch until the end of the round. Sl st into the first st of
the round.
*Again, if making a two-toned cardigan, scallop sets only one side of the cardigan with
one colour, and then switches to another colour yarn to finish scallop around the
cardigan.
Sharing this picture here to help imagine what your cardigan should look like if you are
making a two-toned one.
Fasten off.
Repeat the same process for the sleeve with a round of sc and then a round of
scallop stitches.
Weave in your ends and then…
…YOU’RE DONE!