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THE
TACO TRUCK
HOW MEXICAN STREET FOOD IS
TRANSFORMING THE AMERICAN CITY
ROBERT LEMON
Cover images: Taco truck in Tulsa Oklahoma (photo by Robert Lemon); skyline
background image (©iStock.com/Terriana).
To my grandmother, Rosalina B. Gonzalez (1911–
2006),
for all the love she gave me through her cooking.
CONTENTS
Language: English
I
When the Cubans, led by Gomez and Maceo, were waging their
final rebellion against the immemorial tyranny of Spain, it may be
recalled that there was much filibustering out of American ports, and
a lively demand for seafaring men of an intrepid temper who could
be relied on to keep their eyes open and their mouths shut. Such a
one was young Captain O’Shea, and, moreover, he was no amateur
at this ticklish industry, having already “jolted one presidente off his
perch in Hayti, and set fire to the coat-tails of another one in
Honduras,” as he explained to the swarthy gentlemen of the Cuban
Junta in New York, who passed on his credentials.
They gave him a sea-going tug called the Fearless, permitted
him to pick his own crew, and told him where to find his cargo, in a
fairly lonesome inlet of the Florida coast. Thereafter he was to work
out his own salvation. The programme was likely to be anything else
than monotonous. To be nabbed by a Yankee cruiser in home waters
for breaking the laws of nations meant that Captain O’Shea would
cool his heels in a Federal jail, a mishap most distasteful to a man of
a roving disposition. To run afoul of the Spanish blockading fleet in
Cuban waters was to be unceremoniously shot full of holes and
drowned in the bargain.
Such risks as these were incidental to his trade, and Captain
O’Shea maintained his cheerful composure until the Fearless had
taken her explosive cargo on board and was dropping the sandy
coast-line of Florida over her stern. Then he scrutinized his
passengers and became annoyed. The Junta had sent him a Cuban
colonel and forty patriots, recruited from the cigar factories of Tampa
and Key West, who ardently, even clamorously, desired to return to
their native land and fight for the glorious cause of liberty.
Their organization was separate from that of the ship’s company.
It was not the business of Captain O’Shea to enforce his hard-fisted
discipline among them, nor did he have to feed them, for they had
brought their own stores on board. Early in the voyage he expressed
his superheated opinion of the party to the chief engineer. The twain
stood on the little bridge above the wheel-house, the clean-built,
youthful Irish-American skipper, and the beefy, gray-headed Johnny
Kent, whose variegated career had begun among the Yankees of
’way down East.
The deep-laden Fearless was wallowing through the uneasy
seas of the Gulf Stream. The Cuban patriots were already sea-sick
in squads, and they lay helpless amid an amazing disorder of
weapons, blankets, haversacks, valises, and clothing. Now and then
the crest of a sea flicked merrily over the low guard-rail and swashed
across the pallid sufferers.
“Did ye ever see such a mess in all your born days?” disgustedly
observed Captain O’Shea. “And we will have to live with this
menagerie for a week or so, Johnny.”
“It’ll be a whole lot worse when all of ’em are took sea-sick,” was
the discouraging reply. “Doggone ’em, they ain’t even stowed their
kits away. They just flopped and died in their tracks. Why don’t you
make their colonel kick some savvey into ’em, eh, Cap’n Mike?”
“Colonel Calvo?” and O’Shea spat to leeward with a laugh. “He
is curled up in the spare state-room, and his complexion is as green
as a starboard light. There is one American in the lot. Wait till I fetch
him up.”
A deck-hand was sent into the dismal chaos, and there presently
returned in his wake a lean, sandy man in khaki who clutched an old-
fashioned Springfield rifle. At a guess his years might have been
forty, and his visage had never a trace of humor in it. Much drill had
squared his shoulders and flattened his back, and he stiffly saluted
Captain O’Shea.
“Who are you, and what are ye doing in such amazin’ bad
company?” asked the latter.
“My name is Jack Gorham, sir. I served four enlistments in the
Fifth Infantry, and I have medals for marksmanship. The Cubans
took me on as a sharp-shooter. They promised me a thousand
dollars for every Spanish officer I pick off with this old gun of mine. I
have a hundred and fifty rounds. You can figure it out for yourself, sir.
I’ll be a rich man.”
“Provided ye are not picked off first, me hopeful sharp-shooter.
Are there any more good men in your crowd?”
The old regular dubiously shook his head as he answered:
“There’s a dozen or so that may qualify on dry land. The rest
ain’t what you’d call reliable comrades-in-arms.”
“Oh, they may buck up,” exclaimed Captain O’Shea. “Look here,
Gorham, you can’t live on deck with those sea-sick swine. Better go
for’ard and bunk with my crew.”
Jack Gorham looked grateful, but firmly declared:
“Thank you, sir, I belong with the Cuban outfit, and I’ll take my
medicine. It would make bad feeling if I was to quit ’em. They are as
jealous and touchy as children. I have a tip for you. There is one ugly
lad in the bunch, the big, black nigger settin’ yonder on the hatch.
They tell me he comes from Colombia and left there two jumps
ahead of the police.”
They gazed down at the powerful figure of the negro, whose
tattered shirt disclosed swelling ridges of muscle and more than one
long scar defined in pink against the shining black skin. Thick-lipped,
flat-nosed, he was the primitive African savage whose ancestors had
survived the middle passage in the hold of a Spanish slaver. He was
snarling and grumbling to a group of Cubans, and Captain O’Shea
pricked up his ears.
“Raising a row about the grub, is he? ’Tis a pity he could not be
sea-sick early and often.”
“Why don’t you crack him over the head with a belayin’-pin just
for luck?” amiably suggested the chief engineer. “It would sweeten
him up considerable.”
“I am carrying them as passengers, you blood-thirsty old
buccaneer,” retorted O’Shea. “I must keep me hands off till they
really mix things up. But I do not like the looks of the big nigger. He is
one of your born trouble-hunters.”
“You take my advice and beat him up good and plenty before he
gets started,” was the sage farewell of Johnny Kent as he lumbered
below to exhort his oilers and stokers.
The night came down and obscured the hurrying tug whose
course was laid for the Yucatan passage around the western end of
Cuba. The lights of a merchant-steamer twinkled far distant and
Captain O’Shea sheered off to give her a wide berth. He had no
desire to be sighted or reported.
To him, keeping lookout on the darkened bridge, came his cook,
a peaceable mulatto who had a grievance which he aired as follows:
“Please, cap’n, them Cubans what ain’t sea-sick is actin’
powerful unreasonable. I lets ’em heat their stuff and make coffee in
my galley, but I ain’t ’sponsible for th’ rations they all draws. That big,
black niggah is stirrin’ ’em up. Jiminez, they calls him. At supper-time
to-night, cap’n, he tried to swipe some of th’ crew’s bacon and hash,
and I had to chase him outen th’ galley.”
“All right, George. I will keep an eye on him to-morrow,” said the
skipper. “Between you and me the Cuban party did not bring enough
provisions aboard to run them on full allowance for the voyage.
There was graft somewhere. But I’m hanged if they can steal any of
my stores. We may need every pound of them. I will see to it that
your galley isn’t raided. And if this big bucko Jiminez gets gay again,
give him the tea-kettle and scald the black hide off him—
understand?”
“Yes, suh, cap’n; I’ll parboil him if you’ll look out he don’t carve
me when he’s done recuperated.”
The cook descended to his realm of pots and pans while Captain
O’Shea reflected that the voyage might be even livelier than he had
anticipated. With calm weather his forty passengers would recover
their appetites and demand three meals per day. They might whine
and grumble over the shortage, but without a leader they were fairly
harmless.
“I will have to lock horns with the big nigger before he gets any
more headway,” soliloquized Captain O’Shea.
For once he heartily desired high winds and rough seas, but the
following morning brought weather so much smoother, that the
pangs of hunger took hold of the reviving patriots, who arose from
the coal-sacks and crowded to the galley windows. The cook toiled
with one eye warily lifted lest the formidable negro from Colombia
should board him unawares.
Captain O’Shea leaned over the rail of his bridge and surveyed
the scene. Black Jiminez was making loud complaint in his guttural
Spanish patois, but his following was not eager to encounter the
rough-and-tumble deck-hands of the Fearless, besides which the
prudent cook hovered within easy distance of the steaming tea-
kettle.
To the amusement of Captain O’Shea, it was that lathy sharp-
shooter of the serious countenance, Jack Gorham, who took it upon
himself to read the riot act to the big negro. He regarded himself and
his duty with a profound, unshaken gravity. Jiminez overtopped him
by a foot, but pride of race and self-respect would not permit him to
knuckle under to the black bully.
“Will ye look at the Gorham man?” said Captain O’Shea to the
chief engineer who had joined him. “He is bristlin’ up to the nigger
like a terrier pup. And Jiminez would make no more than two bites of
him.”
“How can the soldier do anything else?” exclaimed Johnny Kent.
“He’s the only white man in the bunch.”
“I may as well let him know that I am backin’ his game,”
observed the other. He sang out to Gorham, and the veteran
infantryman climbed to the bridge, where he stood with heels
together, hat in hand. His pensive, freckled countenance failed to
respond to the captain’s greeting smile.
“Unless I am mistaken, Gorham, ye have it in mind to tackle a
job that looks a couple of sizes too large for you. Will ye start a
ruction with Jiminez?”
“Until the colonel gets on his legs I’m the man to take charge of
the party, sir,” answered the soldier, reflectively rubbing the bald spot
which shone through his thinning thatch of sandy hair.
“But I expect to take a hand,” petulantly declared the captain.
“This is my ship.”
“Excuse me, sir,” and Gorham’s accents were most apologetic.
“This is your ship, but it ain’t your party. The patriots are a separate
command. The big nigger belongs to me. If I don’t discourage him, I
lose all chance of winnin’ promotion in the Cuban army. If he downs
me, I’ll be called a yellow dog from one end of the island to the other.
I intend to earn my shoulder-straps.”
“And you will climb this big, black beggar, and thank nobody to
interfere?” asked the admiring Captain O’Shea.
“It is up to me, sir.”
“You strain me patience, Gorham. If ye have any trinkets and
messages to send to your friends, better give them to me now.”
Said the chief engineer when the soldier was out of ear-shot:
“Does he really mean it, Cap’n Mike? He’ll sure be a homely-
lookin’ corpse.”
“Mean it? That lantern-jawed lunatic wouldn’t know a joke if it hit
him bows on.”
“Will you let him be murdered?”
“We will pry the big nigger off him before it goes as far as that.
Have ye not learned, Johnny Kent, that it is poor business to come
between a man and his good intentions, even though they may be all
wrong?”
Later in the day Captain O’Shea sought the state-room of the
prostrate Colonel Calvo. The sea was a relentless foe and showed
him no mercy. Feebly moving his hands, he turned a ghastly face to
the visitor and croaked:
“I have no interes’ in my mens, in my country, in nothings at all. I
am dreadful sick. I will not live to see my Cuba. She will weep for
me. The ship, she will sink pretty soon? I hope so.”
“Nonsense, colonel,” bluffly returned O’Shea. “The weather
couldn’t be finer. A few days more of this and ye will be wading in
Spanish gore to your boot-tops. I want to ask about your stores. Your
men are growlin’. Who is in charge of the commissary?”
“Talk to me nothings about eats,” moaned the sufferer. “Why do
anybody want eats? Come to-morrow, nex’ day, nex’ week. Now I
have the wish to die with peace.”
“The sooner, the better,” said the visitor, and departed.
The Fearless, with explosives in the hold and inflammable
humanity above-decks, pursued her hard-driven way through
another night and turned to double Cape San Antonio and enter the
storied waters of the Caribbean. Black Jiminez had failed to play the
rôle expected of him and the discontent of the patriots focussed itself
in no open outbreak. Captain O’Shea was puzzled at this until the
mate came to him and announced that the Cubans had broken
through a bulkhead in the after-hold and were stealing the ship’s
stores. This accounted for their good behavior on deck. The leader
of the secret raiding party was the big negro from Colombia.
“It seems to me that this is my business,” softly quoth the
skipper, and his gray eyes danced while he pulled his belt a notch
tighter. “But I must play fair and ask permission of the melancholy
sharp-shooter before I proceed to make a vacancy in the Jiminez
family.”
The interview with Gorham was brief. The captain argued that by
breaking through a bulkhead and pilfering the crew’s provisions, the
large black one had invaded the O’Shea domain. The soldier held to
it with the stubbornness of a wooden Indian that his own self-respect
was at stake. O’Shea lost his temper and burst out:
“If ye are so damned anxious to commit suicide, go and get him
and put him in irons. I will give you a decent burial at sea, though ye
don’t deserve it, you pig-headed old ramrod.”
“The moral effect will be better if I get him,” mildly suggested the
soldier.
The Cubans had learned that trouble was in the wind. Their
stolen supplies were to be cut off and this meant short rations again.
Angry and rebellious, only a spark was needed to set them ablaze.
When eight bells struck the noon hour they surged toward the galley,
making a great noise, displaying their sea-rusted machetes and
rifles. In the lead was Jiminez, a half-clad, barbaric giant who waved
a heavy blade over his head and shouted imprecations. The purpose
of the mob was to rush the galley and carry off all the food in sight.
The crew of the Fearless liked not the idea of going dinnerless.
When the excited patriots charged forward, there quickly rallied in
front of the deck-house fourteen earnest-looking men equipped with
Mauser rifles broken out of the cargo. In a wheel-house window
appeared the head and shoulders of Captain O’Shea. His fist held a
piece of artillery known as a Colt’s forty-five. In the background of
the picture was the resourceful Johnny Kent, who was coupling the
brass nozzle of the fire-hose.
Jiminez had decided to declare war. He appealed to the patriots
to use their weapons, but they showed a prudent reluctance to open
the engagement. One of them, by way of locating the responsibility
for the dispute, pulled a revolver from a holster and took a snap-shot
at the cook.
“I guess I’d better turn loose this hose and wash ’em aft, Cap’n
Mike,” sung out the chief engineer. “George is a darned good cook
and it ain’t right to let these black-and-tans pester him.”
Captain O’Shea bounded from the bridge to the deck, and the
crew of the Fearless welcomed him with joyous yelps. Instead of
giving them the expected order to charge the Cubans hammer-and-
tongs, he made for Jiminez single-handed. His intention was
thwarted. Between him and the burly negro appeared the spare
figure of Jack Gorham, who moved swiftly, quietly. With courteous
intonation and no sign of heat he affirmed:
“This is my job, sir. It’s about time to put a few kinks in him.”
The manner of the man made Captain O’Shea hesitate and feel
rebuked, as though he had been properly told to mind his own
business. With a boyish grin he slapped Gorham on the back and
said:
“I beg your pardon for intrudin’. ’Tis your funeral.”
Although the mob behind Jiminez failed to catch the wording of
this bit of dialogue, they comprehended its import. The extraordinary
composure of the two men impressed them. They felt more fear of
them than of the embattled deck-hands. The tableau lasted only a
moment, but a singular silence fell upon the ship.
Big Jiminez nervously licked his lips and his bloodshot eyes
roved uneasily. It was apparent that he had been singled out as the
leader, and that the sad-featured American soldier in the sea-stained
khaki viewed him as no more than an incident in the day’s work.
Captain O’Shea had stepped back to join his own men. Jack
Gorham stood alone in a small cleared space of the deck, facing the
truculent negro. The Cubans began to edge away from Jiminez as if
comprehending that here was an issue between two men. The
soldier had for a weapon that beloved old Springfield rifle, but he
made no motion to shoot.
Presently he sprang forward, with the heavy butt upraised. The
negro swung his machete at the same instant and the blade was
parried by the steel barrel. The mob had become an audience. It lost
its menacing solidarity and drifted a little way aft to make room for
the combatants. Instead of riot or mutiny, the trouble on board the
Fearless had defined itself as a duel.
The veteran regular handled the clubbed rifle with amazing ease
and dexterity. The wicked machete could not beat down his guard,
and he stood his ground, shifting, ducking, weaving in and out,
watching for an opening to smash the negro’s face with a thrust of
the butt. Once the blade nicked Gorham’s shoulder and a red smear
spread over the khaki tunic.
Jiminez was forced back until he was cramped for room to
swing. His machete rang against a metal stanchion and the galley
window was at his elbow. His black skin shining with sweat, his
breath labored, the splendid brute was beginning to realize that he
had met his master. From the tail of his eye he observed that the
Cubans no longer thronged the passageway between the deck-
house and guard-rail. He turned and ran toward the stern.
Gorham was after him like a shot. In his wake scampered the
crew of the Fearless intermingled with the Cubans, all anxious to be
in at the finish. Jiminez wheeled where the deck was wide. He was
not as formidable as at first. Fear was in his heart. He had never
fought such a man as this insignificant-looking American soldier, who
was unterrified, unconquerable. Gorham ran at him without an
instant’s hesitation, the rifle gripped for a downward swing. The
machete grazed his head and chipped the skin from the bald spot.
Before Jiminez could strike again, the butt smote his thick skull
and he staggered backward. Caught off his balance, his machete no
longer dangerous, he was unable to avoid the next assault. Gorham
moved a step nearer and deftly tapped his adversary with the rifle-
butt. It was a knock-out blow delivered with the measured precision
of a prize-ring artist. The machete dropped from the negro’s limp
fingers and he toppled across two sacks of coal with a sighing grunt.
The crew of the Fearless broke into a cheer. The mate on duty in
the wheel-house let the vessel steer herself and scrambled to the
bridge, where he was clumsily dancing a jig. The Cubans chattered
among themselves in subdued accents, and from the state-room
door peered the wan countenance of Colonel Calvo, who was
wringing his hands and sputtering commands to which nobody paid
the slightest attention.
Jack Gorham stood swaying slightly, leaning upon his
Springfield, and wiped the blood from his eyes with the back of his