vulcan_kit_documentation
vulcan_kit_documentation
VULCAN
BASED ON BUILD DIFFICULTY
fOXX Tone Machine
® Easy
EFFECT TYPE DOCUMENT VERSION
Octave-up fuzz 1.0.1 (2024-08-08)
PROJECT SUMMARY
A classic untamed fuzz from the 1970s that adds an octave-up overtone.
IMPORTANT NOTE
This documentation is for the kit version of the project. If you purchased the PCB by itself, please
use the PCB-only version of the documentation instead. The circuit is the same, but the instructions
are completely different due to the specialized parts and assembly methods used in the kit.
If you’ve done this before, it’s great to see you again and we’re confident you’ll find this build experience
an enjoyable one.
Aion FX kits are designed to empower anyone to build a high-quality pedal, no matter the skill level.
The pedalbuilding hobby has traditionally had a steep learning curve, but don’t be overwhelmed—we’ve
done all the hard work for you. All you need to do is follow these instructions and you’ll be on your way
to transforming your tone.
• You’re going to have to get your hands dirty—there’s no way around it. Nothing here comes
preassembled, and you’ll have to learn the skills to put it all together. This document will walk you
through everything you need, but be prepared to learn a few things along the way.
• This will take time. Plan on about two hours start to finish. It may take even longer if it’s your first
time building. Don’t rush it. If you find yourself getting frustrated or overwhelmed, take a break and
come back in a couple of hours or the next day.
• No direct technical support is offered. There are several DIY forums and Facebook groups with
thousands of members who enjoy troubleshooting and teaching. But please be sensitive to the fact
that the staff at Aion FX is minimal, and every minute spent helping individuals in private is time
that can’t be spent on new project development.
• There is no implied guarantee of a final product. Aion FX provides the ingredients and the recipe,
but you are responsible for putting everything together to make it work. We’ve tried to make the
process as clear and accessible as possible, but it must be expressly stated that purchasing the kit is
not a guarantee that you will end up with a working pedal.
It’s recommended to read through all of the instructions before you start, particularly if you’ve never
built a pedal before. If you familiarize yourself with the entire process ahead of time and you know what
the goal looks like, each step will make more sense.
If you find that any parts are missing or damaged, please fill out the Missing Parts form.
3n3 1 220R 1
5n6 1 1k 2
1uF 7 12k 1
15k 1
Electrolytic Capacitors 22k 1
22uF 1 100k 6
100uF 1 150k 1
470k 1
MLCC Capacitors 1M 1
NAME QTY
100n (marked “104”) 1
Transistors
NAME QTY
Diodes 2N3904 4
NAME QTY
1N5817 1
BAT46 2
Germanium 2
Potentiometers Switches
NAME QTY NAME QTY
50kB 3 Toggle switch, SPDT on-off-on 2
NAME QTY
LED bezel 1
Wiring
LED, blue 1 NAME QTY
9V battery snap 1 3-strand wire assembly, 70mm 2
PCB, footswitch 1
PCB, input/output/DC 1
Enclosure 1
Enclosure screws 4
Not polarized. Color may Polarized. The negative side Not polarized. MLCC stands for Polarized. The positive side
vary by brand and type. is marked. “multi-layer ceramic capacitor.” is marked.
Charge pumps and delay chips Some voltage regulators It’s recommended to use a
also look like this. They may also look like this. razor blade to separate
have more than 8 legs. these cleanly.
LED BEZEL
1. Resistors
2. Diodes
3. IC sockets
4. MLCC capacitors
5. Film capacitors
6. Transistors
7. Electrolytic capacitors
Using the parts list above, populate the resistors by pushing them through the holes and bending the
leads outward at an angle to hold them in place. Resistors are not polarized, so they will work in any
direction. Turn the board upside-down to keep the components held in place while you solder.
You’ll use this same technique for most of the other components as well.
If this is your first time soldering, watch tutorial videos on YouTube and make sure you get it down
before you begin. You don’t want to practice or experiment on this board!
Note: RX1 is not used in this kit and should be left empty on the PCB.
D2 BAT46 D5 Germanium
D3 BAT46
• Old-stock diodes can sometimes develop corrosion on the leads, making them
difficult to solder. It’s recommended to use sandpaper or a small file to gently rough up the leads
where they will make contact with the solder. This will make adhesion much easier.
• Be quick when soldering. Germanium diodes can easily be damaged by overheating. Contact with
the soldering iron should be limited to 1-2 seconds maximum. If you don’t have a good solder joint,
wait a minute or two for it to cool before trying again.
If you damage them during installation, send us a note via our missing parts form and we can send a
replacement for the cost of shipping.
PART VALUE
Q1 2N3904
Q2 2N3904
Q3 2N3904
Q4 2N3904
Now we’ll do the transistors. If the legs are not already bent into 0.1” spacing, use your needle-nose
pliers to bend the outer two legs as shown.
Since these are just used as buffers and don’t need to be selected for gain, sockets are not necessary. You
can just solder them directly to the board.
Bend the outer leads to hold it in place on the board. Then, solder them and clip the leads.
After the sockets come the box film and MLCC capacitors. These are all several different heights, but
there aren’t as many, so just do them all at once. Bend the leads at an angle to hold them in place.
MLCCs and box capacitors are not polarized and will work in any direction. To keep things neat, though,
it’s recommended to put them all facing the same way.
Note: C2, C10, C11 and C12 are typically blue box-film capacitors. For these, the value is printed on the
top rather than the side.
C1 and C3 are usually red, but may read “µ1J100” on the top rather than the side.
C17 (100n MLCC) is always yellow. It can be hard to read the code since it’s so small, so it’s easier to
identify this one by color.
Install the two 3-pin headers (wire connectors) as shown above. These have a polarity pin, so as long
as they are pressed all the way down, there’s only one possible way to install them. They do fit pretty
tightly in the holes, though, so press firmly.
There’s also a 4-pin header on the I/O board that we will do in a later step.
PART VALUE
C8 22uF
C16 100uF
Populate the electrolytic capacitors. These are the tallest components so we save them for last. They are
polarized (i.e. they will only work in one direction), so note the vertical mark that indicates the negative
side. The longer leg is positive and fits in the square pad.
PARTS
3-strand wire assembly (2)
Next, it’s time to finish up the footswitch board. You should have done most of the on-board components
on this board in a previous step, but if not, go back and do those.
There will be one longer assembly with 4 wires and two shorter ones with 3 wires. The longer one goes
in the middle and the shorter ones go on the left and right sides. The wire assemblies should then be
soldered to the footswitch board as shown.
BLUE
MARKING
Once all three wire assemblies are soldered, set the footswitch PCB aside. We’ll solder the actual
footswitch and LED in a later step.
PARTS
Input & output jacks
DC jack
Wire header
9V battery snap
Almost done! Get the two input/output jacks, the DC jack and the wire header and snap them in place.
The PCB is designed for them to fit securely, so you can do them all at once before flipping and soldering.
After you’ve soldered everything, make sure to snip the leads on the I/O jacks as close as possible to
the PCB. There’s not a lot of clearance between the bottom of this board and the top of the main PCB
once everything is in place, and you don’t want the pins to short against anything on accident.
Next, we’ll hook up the 9V battery connector. This is optional. Not everyone uses batteries. But, if you
do, this pedal should last a long time on a single 9V so you won’t need to change it very often.
STEP 1 STEP 2
Thread the battery snap leads through the strain- Bend the exposed wires back down and solder them
relief hole twice so it forms a single loop. into the pads. Red is positive (+), black is negative (-).
After soldering, pull it tight.
For even more strain relief, you can thread the snap
through the loop to form a knot. (not shown)
50kB
SPDT SPDT
on-off-on on-off-on
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK WASHER
BEZEL
& LED
MOUNTING NUT
DRESS NUT
FOOTSWITCH
The dress nut fits over the top of the mounting nut and is for aesthetic
purposes only. Wrap a rubber band around it to use as a grip when tightening.
Do not use metal tools on it or you run the risk of scratching or denting it.
125B
Volume: 50kB
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK RING
LOCK WASHER
50kB
SPDT SPDT
on-off-on on-off-on
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK WASHER
The dress nut acts as a mounting nut, unlike the footswitch dress nut. Use flat-
FOOTSWITCH nose pliers on the flat sides of the nut to tighten securely.
125B
Once all of the pins are through their holes and the PCB is laying
flat, solder each of the pins from the top. Be careful not to touch
any of the surrounding components with the soldering iron.
After you’ve finished soldering the pots, clip the leads as close
as you can to the main PCB. This is more important with the
two uppermost pots because the input/output PCB overlaps
them and you need to avoid any of the components shorting.
(The toggle switch lugs do not need to be clipped.)
Next, move to the footswitch board and solder the 3PDT switch.
If you’ve read the documentation carefully and followed all the instructions, there’s a good chance you
will get it right the first time!
Note the use of two mounting nuts on each of the jacks, one inside and one outside. The inner nut acts as
a spacer to set the DC jack flush with the outside of the enclosure. The inner nuts should be threaded as
far down as they can go.
MOUNTING NUT
OUTER WASHER
LOCK WASHER
MOUNTING NUT
125B
At this point, you have completed the full circuit as far as the electrons are concerned. Plug in a 9-volt
supply and test it out with a guitar and an amplifier.
Test the bypass switch a few times, then start turning the knobs and see if everything sounds OK. If it
works, great! If not, don’t be discouraged. See page 25 for troubleshooting info.
Finishing touches
Now, just a couple of things for the final assembly. Turn the shafts all fully counter-clockwise, then put
on the knob and rotate until the indicator line is aligned with the dot on the enclosure that shows the
zero point. Affix the knobs to each of the potentiometer shafts as shown in the diagram below.
Using a small flat-head screwdriver (no more than 0.1” / 2.5mm in diameter), firmly tighten the set screw
until it presses against the shaft of the potentiometer and holds the knob in place.
Be careful not to over-tighten or you may damage the set screw. But if it’s not tight enough, the knob will
be more likely to fall off or lose its alignment with the markings on the enclosure.
Last, just close the panel on the back using the four screws. That’s it!
D1
1N5817
GND
1M
C1
100n
R25
100R
R5
GND
100k R3 R2
GND
R4
VA
47k
SCHEMATIC
GND
C17
100n
Q1
1k 47k
100n
C3
GND
C2
VA
GND
C16
1n
R6
100uF
100k
R7 R8
VA
GND
Q2
4k7 4k7
2N3904
C5 C4
GND
GND
100k 100k
D3
BAT46
D2
BAT46
1
R10
2
VA
3
OCTAVE 100k
R23 C6
VA
100k 1uF
R9
12k
SUSTAIN
R12 50kB
GND
220R 1 3
2
C7
1uF
R14 R13
VA
GND
15k 150k
R15 R16
VA
GND
Q3
1k 10k
2N3904
C9
GND
C8
1uF
22uF
D4
1N34A
GND
1N34A
D5
2
MIDRANGE
1
3
OMIT
TONE
47n
C13
R18 50kB
GND
4k7 1 3
2
C14
1uF
R20 R19
VA
GND
47k 470k
R22 R21
VA
GND
Q4
1k5 10k
2N3904
C15
VOLUME 1uF
50kB
GND
1 3
2
OUT
23
FULL PARTS LIST
Resistors
PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE
R1 1M R8 4k7 R15 1k R23 100k
Capacitors Diodes
PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE
C1 100n film C7 1uF film C13 47n film D1 1N5817
Q4 2N3904
Voltages
The following voltages are taken from our prototype unit using a 9.60V supply. Your measured voltages
won’t be exactly the same due to variance in power supplies and component tolerances. However, if you
see anything more than +/-0.5V from the listed voltages, it’s a good indicator of an issue, and the exact
voltages can help narrow it down. The legs of each transistor (E, B and C) are marked on the PCB.
Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4
PIN VOLTAGE PIN VOLTAGE PIN VOLTAGE PIN VOLTAGE
E 0 E 1.70 E 0.18 E 0.17
While we cannot offer direct, private support, you may send a link to your public troubleshooting thread
to Aion FX using the contact form on the website. There is no guarantee that we will be able to join the
discussion and help solve your problem, but this improves the chances.
It benefits the whole community if the troubleshooting process is public because then people who have
the same issue in the future may come across it when searching. And if you do get help, remember to
pay it forward! The best way to learn new skills is to help others. Even if you’ve only built one pedal, you
have more experience than someone who is brand new, so you have something to offer.
RESALE TERMS
These kits may be used for commercial endeavors in any quantity unless otherwise noted. It’s okay to
sell individual builds locally or online, or even to offer a service to build pedals based on these kits.
No direct attribution is necessary, though a link back is always greatly appreciated. The only usage
restriction is that you cannot “goop” the PCB or otherwise obscure the source. In other words: you don’t
have to go out of your way to advertise the fact that you use Aion FX kits, but please don’t go out of your
way to hide it. The guitar effects industry needs more transparency, not less!
Any use of trademarks is for comparative advertising purposes only under fair use. It is not an
endorsement of this product by the trademark holders.
These kits are intended to be built by the customer. Aion FX is not responsible for language that may be
used by the customer in the marketing or resale of the finished product.
All content and graphics in this document are original works and are copyrighted by Aion FX and may
not be used without permission.
DOCUMENT REVISIONS
1.0.1 (2024-08-08)
Added link to troubleshooting guide on page 25.
1.0.0 (2022-11-11)
Initial release.