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BOULDER BETTER
From
Power Company Climbing

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Copyright ©2020 by Power Company Climbing

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in

any form, or by electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior
written permission of the author.

Written by Kris Hampton

Edited, Designed, and Compiled by Kris Hampton, Lana Stigura, and
Brittany Hoffman

Power Company Climbing

Lander, Wyoming
www.powercompanyclimbing.com

DISCLAIMER
Climbing and training for climbing are inherently dangerous. Your safety
depends on your own judgment. The author, illustrator, and any persons
associated with Power Company Climbing will assume no liability for
accidents or injuries sustained by readers of this book. If you are unwilling
to assume all responsibility for your own safety, please do not use this book.

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JOIN US AROUND THE WEB

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 H HOOWW T TOO U US SE E T TH HI SI S E E- B
BOOO
OKK
U S E TH I S EBOO
To View on Your Mobile Device: while there are multiple apps
available (Kindle, Nook, iBooks, etc.) to view this Ebook on your
mobile device, we recommend using the Gumroad Library App - the
mobile app from our Ebook distributor. It’s an easy way to download
and view any/all of our Ebooks. Meaning, if you purchase more than
one of our Ebooks they will be all in one place. Just be sure to utilize
the same email address that you used when you purchased your
Ebook (and for any future Ebook purchases).

If You Prefer A Physical Copy: after you hit “Print,” select “More
settings.” Change paper size to “8 x 10” and then select “Fit to
printable area/Fit to screen.”

Familiarize Yourself with The Exercise List: this is a separate

document that lists all the exercises used throughout the plan, with
detailed instructions and a video link for each. These links and
instructions are not repeated throughout the program text (to save
space) so make sure you learn the exercises and/or you may wish to
keep the list open in a second window/tab for easy reference.

Several exercises utilize a timer - links

have been provided. If you’d like the
ability to save and use these timers
offline, they were built in an app called
Seconds Pro, which we recommend!
CLICK THE LOGO!

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Decide If You’d Like to Use Our Tracking Log Sheets:
If you’d like to track your workouts and keep notes, we’ve
provided tracking log sheets as a separate document. Print
these off ahead of time if you’re planning to use them! The
document has 3 log sheets - a different one for each training
phase of the plan encompassing a week’s worth of sessions.
Since each phase lasts 4 weeks, you’ll need to print 4 copies of
each in order to cover the entire plan. Below is an example to
show how you might fill one in:

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7
 CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ................................................................. 9

ABOUT THIS PROGRAM ............................................... 10

SCHEDULING ............................................................... 12

TRAINING TIPS ............................................................. 15

THE PROGRAM ................................................................ 17

PHASE 1: STRENGTH AND STAMINA (3 WEEKS) ........... 18

PHASE 1 DELOAD (1 WEEK) ......................................... 21

PHASE 2: POWER AND STAMINA (3 WEEKS) ................ 23

PHASE 2: DELOAD (1 WEEK) ........................................ 26

PHASE 3: POWER ENDURANCE (3 WEEKS) .................. 28

PHASE 3: DELOAD (1 WEEK) ........................................ 30

AFTER THE PROGRAM ..................................................... 32

WHAT’S NEXT ? ............................................................ 33

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INTRODUCTION

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 ABOUT THIS PROGRAM
ABOUT THIS PROGRAM

BOULDER BETTER is a non-linear periodized training plan

written specifically for the intermediate boulderer who is
looking to efficiently make the most of their gym time. In this
plan, we’ll be exploring the movement skills, tactics, and
physical qualities needed in order to master harder boulders.

FOR: CLIMBERS WHO ARE ALREADY

CONSISTENTLY CLIMBING IN THE V3-V6 RANGE
WILL BENEFIT THE MOST FROM THIS PLAN.

EQUIPMENT: YOU WILL NEED ACCESS TO

BOULDERING AND A HANGBOARD. WHILE NOT
REQUIRED, ACCESS TO SOME FORM OF A
SUSPENSION TRAINING SYSTEM AND WEIGHTS
CAN BE HELPFUL.

DURATION: 12 WEEKS

FREQUENCY: 3-5 SESSIONS A WEEK, 1-3

HOURS A SESSION

STRUCTURE: THE PLAN CONSISTS OF 3

PROGRESSIVELY FOCUSED PHASES, EACH
LASTING 3 WEEKS, SEPARATED BY A DE-LOAD
WEEK DESIGNED TO ALLOW FOR ADEQUATE
RECOVERY AND ADAPTATION.

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None of these phases will be working
entirely on one energy system. While each
phase has a main focus, all other important
energy systems for your goals will get
attention as well.

Much of your training will be working on

movement drills. These drills shouldn't be
seen as a workout, but as practice. The
more intention you come to the drill with, the
more you'll get out of it. While the main goal
is to add to your movement literacy and bag
of tricks, we're also working to build your
own awareness of your climbing. We know
that can sometimes be hard to connect with,
but stick to it and try not to get discouraged.

We'll also be spending a fair amount of time

focused on building endurance and stamina.
The reason we do this for bouldering is two-
fold: First, we've seen enough boulderers fall
on the "easy" parts after a crux to know the
importance of time spent learning to climb
well while fatigued. Second, building your
stamina will allow you to not only recover
faster between efforts, but will give you more
high quality attempts per session.

This plan will not only zero in on the

muscular and neural demands for
bouldering at a higher level, but will force
you to try new movements and arm you with
a wider repertoire of movement. The more
attention you can pay to the mechanics of
why the movements work, or don’t, and to
the tactics employed to send harder
problems, the more you’ll get out of it.

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 SCHEDULING
SCHEDULING

There is no BEST schedule. While ultimately the final schedule

is up to you, we can offer some suggestions on how to fit
things into your life in a way that makes sense. The number
one thing to remember is that we want this plan to fit you—not
for you to completely overhaul your life to try and fit it. That's a
surefire way to burn out and end up back at square one. So,
do what you can and that's the best we can ask for.
Another important consideration is rest.

If this is still relatively early in your training journey, you'll want

to have a rest day after most sessions. Coming in fresh is a
good idea to get the most out of your training. While training,
particularly high-volume training like stamina and endurance,
can leave you tired, we need to be careful not to get overall
fatigued. If you find that you aren't recovering between
sessions, add more rest days. Doing less at a higher quality is
always better than doing more while digging yourself into a
hole.

WHERE DOES CLIMBING OUTSIDE FIT?

If you are also climbing outside, keep doing it! If it's one or two
days per week, then the best plan is to reduce the training
days and get that experience on real rock. At this point in your
journey, it will go a long way. If it's more than a couple of days
per week, then you may want to consider trying to translate
your training day to the outdoors—projects, circuits and all—
and doing your hangs on a different day.

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PUTTING IT TOGETHER

The basic weekly structure of the sessions in this training plan

remains the same from phase to phase. The modulations in
both volume and intensity will vary within those sessions.

For this program you should expect 2-3 climbing sessions and
1-2 supplemental strength sessions per week within the
following framework:

WEEKS 1-3: STRENGTH AND STAMINA

WEEK 4: DELOAD WEEK

WEEKS 5-7: POWER AND STAMINA

WEEK 8: DELOAD WEEK

WEEKS 9-11: POWER ENDURANCE

WEEK 12: FINAL DELOAD WEEK

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Again, your schedule will determine how you schedule your sessions
each week, but here are some ideal mid-volume examples, making
sure to include necessary rest days and time outside:

Phase 1: Strength and Stamina

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Rest Boulder Rest Boulder Rest Boulder Rest or
Strength Stamina Strength Outdoors
+ SST or
Outdoors

Phase 2: Power and Stamina

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Boulder Boulder Rest Boulder Rest Boulder Rest
Power + Stamina Power + Stamina
SST SST or
Outdoors

Phase 3: Power Endurance

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Rest Boulder Boulder Rest Boulder Rest Boulder
Power + Intervals Power Intervals or
SST Outdoors

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 TRAINING TIPS
TRAINING TIP

Training for climbing can seem like this giant, complicated

vortex – and while that may be partially true, you can let us
worry about that. Overall, your training should be pretty simple,
or at least adhere to some simple rules:

1. TRAINING ISN'T MAGIC. IF YOU AREN'T PUTTING IN WORK,

YOU WON'T GET RESULTS. IT'S THAT SIMPLE.

2. GIVE CONSISTENT EFFORT. SHOW UP REGULARLY, AND

TRY HARD WHEN YOU DO.

3. STRENGTH OR POWER TRAINING SESSIONS SHOULD

ALWAYS BE STARTED AT NEARLY 100%. YOU CAN START
AN ENDURANCE SESSION WHILE STILL A LITTLE TIRED.

4. REST IS JUST AS – MAYBE MORE – IMPORTANT THAN THE

TIME SPENT TRAINING. THIS INCLUDES SLEEP, NUTRITION,
AND REST DAY ACTIVITIES. IF YOU AREN'T RECOVERING,
TAKE MORE REST. THAT'S AN ORDER.

5. IN MOST CASES WE WANT TO SEE YOU COMPLETING THE

REPS. ADJUST THE INTENSITY SO THAT YOU CAN DO THAT.

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6. TRAINING ISN'T LINEAR. WHILE WE WILL ADJUST THE VOLUME
WE'D LIKE TO SEE EACH WEEK, ADJUSTING THE INTENSITY IS UP
TO YOU IN MOST CASES. YOU WON'T ALWAYS BE ABLE TO ADD
LOAD WHEN YOU EXPECT TO, OR IF THE VOLUME GOES UP, YOU
MAY HAVE TO SLIGHTLY REDUCE LOAD. THIS IS NORMAL AND
EXPECTED.

7. TRY TO AVOID JUDGING YOURSELF BASED ON HOW YOUR

TRAINING SESSIONS GO. IT'S ENTIRELY POSSIBLE THAT YOU'RE
GETTING STRONGER AND MORE RESILIENT, BUT ALSO GETTING
TIRED FROM TRAINING. THE REAL TEST WILL COME WHEN
YOU'VE FINISHED THE PROGRAM, GOTTEN A LITTLE REST, AND
YOU'RE STANDING BENEATH YOUR GOALS.

8. TRAINING ISN'T A 12 WEEK PROCESS. IF YOU DON'T REACH

YOUR GOALS AFTER THIS PROGRAM, WE REASSESS, REPLAN,
AND TRY AGAIN. IT'S A LIFETIME PROCESS, SO TREAT IT AS
SUCH.

9. CLIMBING IS A MOVEMENT SPORT THAT RELIES HEAVILY ON

MINDSET AND TACTICS. YES, IT'S IMPORTANT TO CONTINUE
GETTING STRONGER, BUT IT'S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT TO TRY
TO GET BETTER. WE'VE BUILT THESE PROGRAMS TO ADDRESS
THIS, SO WE SUGGEST YOU LEAN INTO THE DRILLS THAT MAKE
YOU UNCOMFORTABLE.

10. HAVE FUN. AFTER ALL, THAT'S WHAT THIS WHOLE THING IS
ABOUT.

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THE PROGRAM

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 P H A S E 1: S T R E N G T H A N D
S T A M I N A ( 3 W E E K S)
P H A S E 1: S T R E N G T H A N D
S TA MI N A ( 3 W E E K S)

We're starting by digging into strength—both on the wall and

off—as well as building a larger base of stamina. This will help
your recovery from the more intense sessions to come, as well
as allow us to layer on top qualities that will give you a better
chance of not only improving at bouldering, but doing more
difficult boulders in a single session.

A: Boulder Strength
1-2 sessions per week.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy
warmups
• Hovers (Before and After): 2 easy-mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Max Hangs (7 On/53 Off) (Timer) Starting at 5 hangs
each session.
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: 15-30 min
• Single Session Sends: 30-45 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders
**Each week, add 1 hang, for a total of 7 per session for Phase 1. Continue
adding weight as possible.

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B: Boulder Stamina
1 session per week. Follow with a rest day.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy
warmups
• One Leg Warmup: 2 easy-mid warmups
• One Touch: 3 mid-upper warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Boulder Mini Project: 15 min
• Fitness Pyramid: (Timer) Starting at 1 Full Pyramid.
**After two sessions of doing 1 full pyramid, add a 2nd full
pyramid for the final session. Substitute harder boulders
whenever necessary.

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C: SST (Supplemental Strength
Training)
1-2 sessions per week. This can be done
immediately after a climbing workout, or
the morning following. Essentially, any
time that this workout doesn't affect your
bouldering.

• Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: Start with 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.

• Pushup Progression: 7-10 reps

• One Leg Hip Bridge: 5-7 reps each side
• Hollow Body Hold: 30 sec

Superset 2: Start with 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.

• Bodyweight Strict Pullup: 5-7 reps

• Inverted Row: 5-7 reps

Superset 3: Start with 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.

• Pistol Squat Progression: 3 reps each side

• One Arm Active Hang: 3-5 sec each side
• Pushup Position Bird Dog: 2 reps each side

** Each week add a set to each Superset,

ending with 4 sets of each. Continue
adding intensity as able, and if you need
more rest, take it.

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 PHASE 1 DELOAD (1 WEEK)
PHASE 1 DELOAD (1 WEEK)

For this deload week, we are cutting the volume of each

session by roughly half. You should aim to keep the intensity
high and continue trying hard.

A: Boulder Strength
1-2 sessions this week.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy
warmups
• Hovers (Before and After): 2 easy-mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Max Hangs (7 On/53 Off) (Timer) 4 hangs
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: 15-20 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders

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B: Boulder Stamina
1 session this week. Follow with a rest day.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy
warmups
• One Leg Warmup: 2 easy-mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Fitness Pyramid: (Timer) 1 Full Pyramid.

C: SST (Supplemental Strength Training)

1 session this week.
• Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: 2 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Pushup Progression: 7-10 reps
• One Leg Hip Bridge: 5-7 reps each side
• Hollow Body Hold: 30 sec

Superset 2: 2 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Bodyweight Strict Pullup: 5-7 reps
• Inverted Row: 5-7 reps

Superset 3: 2 min rest between.

• Pistol Squat Progression: 3 reps each side
• One Arm Active Hang: 3-5 sec each side
• Pushup Position Bird Dog: 2 reps each side

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 P H A S E 2: P O W E R A N D S T A M I N A
(3 WEEKS)
P H A S E 2: P O W E R A N D

STAMINA (3 WEEKS)
The structure of this phase is similar to Phase 1, though we will
start working on being more powerful. We're continuing the
stamina work, as this will be the basis for much of the work you
do beyond this program, and allow you to continue
progressing.

A: Boulder Power
1-2 sessions per week.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hip Shapes: 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy-mid
warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Jump Practice: 15 min
• Three Strike Repeat: 1 difficult boulder
• Max Hangs (7 On/53 Off) (Timer) Starting at 7
hangs each session.
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: 30-45 min
• Limit Bouldering: 15-20 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders
**Each week, add 1 hang, for a total of 9 per session for Phase
2. Continue adding weight as possible.

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B: Boulder Stamina
1 session per week. Follow with a rest day.

Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hip Shapes: 1 easy warmup
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy-mid
warmups
• One Leg Warmup: 2 mid warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Boulder Mini Project: 15 min
• Limit Bouldering: 3-4 attempts or 10-15 min
• Fitness Pyramid: (Timer) Starting at 2 Full Pyramids.

**Each week add a half Pyramid (going up = half, going down =

half), finishing with 3 full pyramids in the final week of this
phase. Substitute harder boulders whenever necessary.

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C: SST (Supplemental Strength Training)
1-2 sessions per week. This can be done immediately after a
climbing workout, or the morning following. Essentially, any
time that this workout doesn't affect your bouldering.

Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: Start with 3 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Ballistic Pushups: 3-5 reps
• One Leg Hip Bridge: 5-7 reps each side
• Hollow Body Hold: 40 sec

Superset 2: Start with 3 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Explosive Sternum Pullups: 3-5 reps
• One Arm Rotational Row: 3-5 each side

Superset 3: Start with 3 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Box Jump: 5 reps
• One Arm Active Hang: 5-7 sec each side
• Pushup Position Bird Dog: 3 reps each side

** Each week try to add 5 sec to the Hollow Body Hold.

Everything else remains steady volume, but increase intensity
as possible.

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 PHASE 2 DELOAD (1 WEEK)
PHASE 2DELOAD (1 WEEK)

For this deload week, we are cutting the volume of each

session by roughly half. You should aim to keep the intensity
high and continue trying hard.
A: Boulder Power
1-2 sessions this week.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hip Shapes: 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy-mid
warmups
• One Touch: 1 mid warmup
• Jump Practice: 10 min
• Three Strike Repeat: 1 difficult boulder
• Find the Minimum Edge
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: 20-30 min
• Limit Bouldering: 10 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders
B: Boulder Stamina
1 session this week. Follow with a rest day. NO FITNESS
PYRAMID this session.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hip Shapes: 1 easy warmup
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 easy-mid
warmups
• One Leg Warmup: 2 mid warmups
• Perfect Repeat: 1 moderate boulder
• Boulder Mini Project: 15 minutes
• Limit Bouldering: 3-4 attempts or 10-15 min

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C: SST (Supplemental Strength
Training)
1 session this week.

• Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.
• Ballistic Pushups: 3-5 reps
• One Leg Hip Bridge: 3-5 reps each
side
• Hollow Body Hold: 30 sec

Superset 2: 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.
• Explosive Sternum Pullups: 3-5 reps
• One Arm Rotational Row: 3-5 each
side

Superset 3: 2 sets / 2 min rest

between.
• Box Jump: 3 reps
• One Arm Active Hang: 5-7 sec each
side
• Pushup Position Bird Dog: 1 rep
each side

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 P H A S E 3: P O W E R E N D U R A N C E
(3 WEEKS)
P H A S E 3: P O W E R E N D U R A N C E ( 3 W E E K S )

Power endurance isn't often discussed when training for

bouldering, but at this point in your bouldering journey it's
going to be an incredibly valuable piece of the puzzle. The
ability to do hard moves for more than just a few seconds at a
time can make the difference between a successful send and
an "almost had it" moment. We'll also still be working on
strength and power - the main building blocks of a good
boulderer.

Keep in mind during your training that power endurance isn't

only a physical adaptation. Your resolve to hold on will be
tested. Your ability to keep your technique together as fatigue
creeps in will be tested. Treat power endurance climbing like a
skill and you'll come away with the tools to climb much harder
boulders.

A: Boulder Power
1-2 sessions per week.
• Climbing Movement Prep
• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hovers (before and after): 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Jump Practice: 15 min
• Three Strike Repeat: 2 difficult boulders / rest as
needed between efforts
• Minimum Edge Hangs (7 On/53 Off) (Timer) Starting at
5 hangs each session.
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: up to 45 min
• Limit Bouldering: up to 30 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders

**Each week, add 1 hang, for a total of 7 per session for Phase
3. Continue reducing edge size as possible.
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B: Boulder Intervals
1 session per week. Follow with a rest day.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hovers (before and after): 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Three Strike Repeat: 1 difficult boulder
• Boulder Mini Project: up to 30 min
• Boulder Intervals: 2 boulders back-to-back. 3 rounds
with 3 min rest between. Start at about 70% of max
boulder difficulty.
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders
**Each week, try and up the difficulty of one of the interval
boulders if possible.

C: SST (Supplemental Strength Training)

1 session per week. This can be done immediately after a
climbing workout, or the morning following. Essentially, any
time that this workout doesn't affect your bouldering.

• Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: Start with 2 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Bodyweight Strict Pullups: 5-7 reps
• One Leg Push Up: 5-7 reps each side
• Box Jump: 5 reps
• Hollow Body Hold: 40 sec

**Each week, add one more round of the Superset, finishing

Phase 3 with 4 rounds.

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 PHASE 3 DELOAD (1 WEEK)
PHASE 3 DELOAD (1 WEEK)

For this deload week, we are cutting the volume of each

session by roughly half. You should aim to keep the intensity
high and continue trying hard.
A: Boulder Power
1-2 sessions this week.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hovers: 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Jump Practice: 15 min
• Three Strike Repeat: 1 difficult boulder
• Minimum Edge Hangs (7 On/53 Off) (Timer) 4 hangs
• Rest: 5 min
• Boulder Mini Project: up to 30 min
• Limit Bouldering: Up to 15 min
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders

B: Boulder Intervals
1 session this week. Follow with a rest day.

• Climbing Movement Prep

• On the Wall Mobility: 10-15 min
• Hovers (before and after): 2 easy warmups
• Contrast Warmup (aka Sloth Monkeys): 2 mid warmups
• One Touch: 2 mid-upper warmups
• Three Strike Repeat: 1 difficult boulder
• Boulder Mini Project: up to 15 min
• Boulder Intervals: 2 boulders back-to-back. Only 1
round this week. If you can sub out one of the boulders
for a more difficult boulder, do it!
• Rhythm Cool Down: 2-3 easy boulders
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C: SST (Supplemental Strength Training)
1 session this week. This can be done immediately after a
climbing workout, or the morning following. Essentially, any
time that this workout doesn't affect your bouldering.

• Climbing Movement Prep as needed

Superset 1: 2 sets / 2 min rest between.

• Bodyweight Strict Pullups: 5-7 reps
• One Leg Push Up: 5-7 reps each side
• Box Jump: 5 reps
• Hollow Body Hold: 40 sec

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After the program

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 WHAT’S NEXT?
WHAT’S NEXT

After the final deload week that ends the BOULDER BETTER
training plan, you should aim to start performing quickly. The 4-
6 weeks following are your best window, provided you’ve
gotten some time to adjust back to the outdoors.

If you’re still hitting the gym, err on the side of low volume
for another week or so. Then any time in the gym should be
largely about performance and focusing on the specific needs
of your projects. Spend time working on your tactics and
awareness while trying hard boulders.

If you're getting outside immediately, it could be to your

benefit to get in a few volume days early so that you're feeling
more accustomed to real rock - as well as to topping out
boulders. Creating a little momentum of success can be a
huge first step toward a successful season.

If you've got a trip coming up, start making your gym

performance or local outdoor sessions look like those
situations. Angle, grip type, style, boulder length - even
frequency of sessions - can all help you go into the trip with
better momentum and set yourself up for success.

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Ready to take the next step in your training?
When you feel like you’ve maxed out the benefits of this
program and you’re ready to level up your training, it’s time to
check out BOULDER STRONG. Available as an Ebook or a
Proven Plan, it’s the next step in our logically progressing
plans.

If you have questions, comments, or concerns, we’d love to

hear from you. Email us anytime at:
[email protected]

Keep in touch with us through our Facebook Community

Page... we'd love to know how your season is going!

Don't forget to tag us in your photos, and use the hashtags

#powercompanyclimbing and #webuildmachines !

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 ABOUT POWER COMPANY
CLIMBING

Power Company Climbing began as an obsession with trying to get

better at climbing. And better. And better. What started as a blog
sharing training ideas for a relatively young sport grew into
something more exciting. When Kris realized that trying to write
customized training plans and explain them over the phone to
dozens of people each season just wasn't sustainable, he set out to
find a new way to remotely work with clients, effectively changing the
climbing coaching industry. We now help to train climbers all over
the globe, specializing in those folks who have real lives, real jobs,
and real responsibilities beyond just sending their next project.
Together we are building a community of people with the shared
goal of becoming better climbers. We know that while climbing is our
passion, it's not the only thing in life that matters.

A B O U T T H E A U T H O R:
KRIS HAMPTON

Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts train at a

facility near the neighborhood where he grew up. He saved his own
money, took a class, and in a short time, was teaching tumbling
classes and coaching men's gymnastics. In 1994, Kris found rock
climbing, and after a decade as a trad climber, and a short break
from climbing, discovered the joy of the gymnastic movement that is
sport climbing and bouldering. To make up for the time away from
the sport, at age 33, Kris began to get serious about training for
climbing. At 40, he climbed his first 5.14, and at 44, his first V11,
both of which are grades that seemed mythical when he first began
climbing. He doesn't believe that the progression will end there.
Seeing his success, Kris's friends asked for training plans. Then
readers of the blog asked for training plans. Now he's written plans
for thousands of climbers all over the world, and gets just as much
satisfaction from their successes as he does his own.

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