isSue #306 sept-ocT 2024

pg. 4-6

pg. 1
Tasty New Additions
to the ZCOB

pg. 2-3
An interview with Chef Bob
from the Roadhouse
 PuL led Pork at the Roadhouse with Red WatTle Hogs New Award-WinNIng Batch of
A long-time big selLer gets better stilL Pleasant Ridge Reser ve CheEse
If you love pulled pork barbecue, here’s some big news. The always excellent CarefulLy crafted by Uplands CheEse on July 18, 2023
pulled pork at the Roadhouse, long one of the biggest selling items in the build-- One of the best cheeses in the world has been made in south-central Wisconsin
ing, just got notably better! Thanks to some seriously positive homework by for nearly 30 years now. Pleasant Ridge Reserve is made—as cheese used to be 150
head chef Bob Bennett, we’ve scored a source for Red Wattle hogs. And, sure years ago—strictly seasonally. It's done only in the spring, summer, and autumn
enough, what was already really, really good is now … a whole lot better still! I when the cows are out in the pasture grazing and the variety of the grasses makes
had a bite about half an hour ago as prep for writing this piece and its richness, for an exceptionally interesting set of flavors. Each year, a small subset of the
complex flavor, and super long finish are still lingering in the loveliest of ways. skilled Zingerman’s cheese staff sits down to taste and compare a range of Pleasant-
To be honest, I don’t generally eat a whole lot of meat but the flavor of the new Ridge—because each day’s milk is different so too is the cheese that’s made from it.
Red Wattle pork is so good I’m eager to eat more! We select a couple of days’ “make” that we like best and then the Uplands crew set
those aside just for us. This year, the selection turned out to be even more special:
In July at the American Cheese Society, Pleasant Ridge won a whole range of awards,
most of which were for the cheeses our crew had chosen! Which means that when
you come into the Deli, Creamery, Roadhouse, or Mail Order and buy Pleasant Ridge
Traditional Turkish Bulgur you will literally be buying a slice of an award-winning cheese!
Exceptional heirlOom wheat makes for some great meals
The folks at Koy Pantry have been doing great work to bring ever-tastier tradi- -
tional Turkish foods to the U.S. for us to enjoy! Last spring we started to get some German ChaL lah from the Bakehouse
of this terrific bulgur. Made from the Karakilcik variety of ancient wheat; a wheat A new nod to German Jewish cooking
that has been grown and eaten for thousands of years now. It’s much darker
Most American Jews—and for that matter, most Americans—are familiar with chal--
in color, higher in fiber and protein, and according to many who have trouble
lah, t he traditional bread baked for Sabbath and holidays. As most of us know it,
eating industrial American wheat, easier to digest due to the lower gluten con- - and as we’ve long made it at the Bakehouse, it’s lightly sweetened honey and en- -
tent. From my end, it tastes GREAT! Wheaty, nutty, wonderful! It’s super easy to
riched with eggs, and also hugely popular. There is though, another kind of chal- -
cook—I just boiled it in salted water til tender, drained it, and ate it with olive
lah, one that is little known in the U.S. but has long been the norm in the German
oil and vegetables. That said, there are thousands of Turkish dishes that call for
Jewish community. What most German Jews will know as berches is made without
this great ingredient! A wonderful addition to my weekly cooking routines and
eggs and it’s even more subtly sweet, so much so that savory food lovers like me
maybe to yours too!
might not even notice the small bit of honey we use in the recipe. Food writer Joan
Nathan, whose work has been an enormous influence on us over the years, is part
of a German Jewish family in which berches is the norm! And now, after all these
years, we’ve begun to bake it here! Whether you want a new way to celebrate the
CominG SoOn—a New Hand-sewn ChapboOk Sabbath, or you want to experience a bit of Jewish cultural diversity, or whether,
from Zingerman’s PreSs like me, you just like to eat good bread, swing by and grab a loaf or two soon!
“Life LesSons I Learned from Being a Line Cook”
Joining our hand-sewn chapbooks all about Wisconsin Cheese and the won-
ders of sardines, this new little chapbook shares a plateful of life lessons that I
Askinosie Chocolate’s Artisan Malted Milk BaL ls
began to learn all those years ago when I took up work as a restaurant line cook.
A clasSic American confection taken to the next leveL
I had kind of figured my formal education had ended when I graduated from the
The crew at Askinosie Chocolate has transformed the classic sweet treat of the
University of Michigan, but it turned out my learning work had only just begun.
American movie theater into a world-class confection that serious chocolate lov-
Connecting with community, humility, appreciating beauty, learning to deal with
ers will love! Making them requires eight hours of spinning the malted milk cen-
grief and loss, and living more productively with paradox are just a few of the 17
ters in dark, direct-sourced-by-Askinosie, Tanzania chocolate so that thin layer
lessons I share in the chapbook! All, I’m confident, will be meaningful to anyone
after thin layer of cacao covers the soft, crumbly, off-white colored centers. Un-
who wants to lean into well-being!
like commercial versions, they have none of that all-too-common industrial stuff
added to give that shiny smooth look. Left unpolished, they have a rustic look and
feel. The aroma is amazing—when you open the package, you’ll immediately be
hit with the smell of good chocolate. Crisp, light, and not at all too sweet, they
Jumbleber Ry CofFEe Cake from the Bakehouse have a really great flavor!
A swirl of juicy berRies in a swEet butTer tea cake
For nearly 40 years now, our Sour Cream Coffee Cake has been a staple of Zinger- -
man’s eating. As we approach the final year of the first quarter of the 21st century, Oktoberfest at Cornman Farms
it’s selling better than ever—literally, almost everyone who tries it loves it! And ThrEe festive, flavorful, falL pop-ups
now, I’m excited about our newest variation. A special version of the Sour Cream Why Oktoberfest celebrations? Co-managing partner Tabitha Mason told me, “Ok-
Coffee Cake that’s juiced up with what we call Jumbleberry—a blend we assemble toberfest originated in Munich, Germany in 1810 to celebrate the marriage of Crown
at the Bakehouse of raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and cranberries. You Prince Ludwig, who later became King Louis I, to Princess Therese. It's the ultimate
get a whole set of superfine flavors in every slice—buttery, creamy, tart, lively, wedding party, which seems fitting for us!” Oktoberfest kicks off in Munich this year
elegant, and excellent. Pick one up at the Bakeshop or Deli for your house! Or let on September 21, so Cornman Farms will be offering three Sunday pop-ups in a row,
us ship some to your sister-in-law in South Carolina! from 12 to 6 pm:
Sunday, September 22: Chicken Schnitzel, Potato Salad & Braised Red Cabbage
Sunday, September 29: Currywurst & Fries
Oat-rageous Funky Chunky CoOkies from the Bakehouse
Sunday, October 6: Jägerschnitzel with Mashed Potatoes & Sauerkraut
Loaded with oats, freshly milLed whole grains
& chocolate chunks (no nuts!) Guests pick up their pre-ordered meals (pre-orders are required—reserve yours now
A wonderful and wholly unexpectedly excellent culinary combo from the Bakehouse on their website!) in the Farmhouse and then are encouraged to dine on the property
pastry crew! Chocolate chunk cookies loaded with chewy, whole grain toasted oats! or in the barn. There will also be a cash bar with some German specialties available.
The oats come from the good folks at Janie’s Mill in Ashkum, Illinois, and Kishnick Cheers! Or rather, Prost!
Family Farm not far from Ann Arbor in Vassar, Michigan. Food writer and long-time
friend of the ZCoB Martha Rose Shulman says cookies like these offer a delicious and
more flavorful cookie alternative. They’re a real winner, she writes, “If you want to Check
indulge in chocolate-chip cookies that taste like chocolate-chip cookies but have us out!
Ari Weinzweig
some wholesome ingredients thrown in.” I say give ’em a try! Tasty, terrific, and too
good to turn down! Co-Founding Partner,
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses

isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024 1

 Within sniffing distance of the eight-foot oak-wood pit smoker and earshot of the sizzling stainless steel flat-top grill, Chef Bob Bennett from
Zingerman’s Roadhouse sat down with me for a chat. We reminisced about the start of his Zingerman’s career at the turn of the century, strug-
gled to narrow down Roadhouse menu favorites, and reflected on the special community we’re a part of. Read on to experience a few morsels
of his earnest and heartfelt approach to cooking and working. And don’t miss those menu picks! It was a tough job (as Bob says “Like picking
from my children!”), but he pulled through for you.

Sara: We’ll call this an icebreaker. How many we're able to do for people, and being part of their mem- It’s also a place where you really can't go wrong on the
pairs of socks do you have and what's your fa- ories. menu. There are so many options for so many folks.
vorite pair? Today, we certainly know our identity, what we know Sara: The neon sign out front states “Really good
Bob: [Laughs] I do have a lot of socks. I probably have about food, what we know about ourselves, what we American food.” What does that mean to you?
a dozen pairs that I rotate through the most. Hedley & want to put forward, and how to uplift the community
Bob: It could mean a whole lot of different things, but
Bennett (Editor’s note: no relation!) makes a soft, super around us. We've done a really good job over the years
at our core, it's traditional Southern foodways. We focus
cozy sock that I wear pretty much exclusively. They're of building our culture and creating connections.
on grits and greens and fried chicken and whole hog
made for people who are on their feet all day, and they
Sara: What's different about you 21 years later? barbecue. We’re a scratch kitchen, so we're butchering
stand out with their patterns, which I enjoy in a sock.
Bob: I talk sometimes. [Laughs] Not having a whole lot whole sides of beef in-house and frying chicken to order.
My favorite is a color block and polka dot pattern called
of experience with food going into working here, I was We’re also recognizing the diversity of where we are in
“Wake Up and Fight.”
super nervous. When I first started I had never cooked the world, being thoughtful about honoring the folks
Sara: What first brought you to Zingerman’s in 2001 a hamburger or a steak. I grew up on Hamburger Helper we're bringing to the table, whether it's a small farmer
when you joined the Deli? and hot dogs with boxed mac and cheese. But I had a and a local crop or chefs who came before us and tradi-
Bob: I was working my first restaurant job in downtown willingness to come in early, stay late, and learn. I knew tional recipes. I think we try putting food and tradition
Ann Arbor and one of my friends was working part-time I could work hard and I just wanted to get better at what out there in a respectful way.
there and part-time at the Deli. He was like, “Hey, I think I was doing. Now, I feel more confident and experienced Sara: What makes traditional barbecue?
you could do really well on the sandwich line.” I felt like which enables me to talk to guests in the dining room
Bob: There's a lot of things that define it. I grew up know-
I could use a change so I went on a trial shift. I was at and be a leader in the kitchen.
ing barbecue as burgers on a gas grill. Traditional bar-
the Deli for two and a half years. At the time I was going
Sara: How has working at Zingerman's impacted becue is a long process that takes serious work. Usually,
to Eastern Michigan University studying psychology. A
your career and your life? it's six to eight hours. You use local wood, so each region
degree I thought I was probably never going to use, but
Bob: Since I've worked here over half my life, and nearly has its own flavor twist. Each one's a little bit different.
maybe I use a lot working in a restaurant. It gave me
all of my culinary career, I would say it's had a huge im- I think it's honoring the whole animal, like our whole
more tools to be helpful, be a better listener, and have
pact! I tell people it's like the unicorn job. I don't think hog barbecue where we're using snout to tail. There's a
more empathy. After moving over to the Roadhouse, I
there's anywhere else like it out there. We bring our staff lot of skill that goes into traditional barbecue in terms
decided I was going to stay in cooking and go to culinary
in and really support them in a lot of ways. And we are of getting the fire right, especially in the elements, and
school at Washtenaw Community College.
always pushing each other to learn more about what knowing just when to pull the smoked meat off the pit.
Sara: In just a few words, what do you love about we're doing. I went to culinary school, but realistically As you look through history, barbecue was a centerpiece
the Roadhouse? I learned more working here. From reading countless of church events, political events, and other commu-
Bob: For myself, it always comes back to the people. cookbooks to visiting BBQ joints in Charleston and nity events that brought people together. It becomes
The relationships we've made with those that we work chicken spots in Nashville to receiving a Zingerman’s this gathering point. Traditional barbecue is a kind of
with, our customers that come in, and our vendors. That staff scholarship to study cooking in Oaxaca, Mexico. storytelling, the ingredients and techniques are passed
brings me a lot of joy and makes me feel pretty good There are all these different opportunities for those on from person to person, generation to generation. We
about what we're doing. who want to step in and take advantage of them. Get- first learned from pitmaster Ed Mitchell from North Car-
ting to work around top-notch service providers and olina here at the Roadhouse. And we’ve been practicing
Sara: You have been with the Roadhouse since be-
people who know a lot about food has always made me and refining it ever since.
fore its doors opened in 2003, even helping paint
want to learn more. Next up on my list is touring part
the walls. If those walls could talk, what would Sara: What is unique about Roadhouse barbecue?
of the Texas barbecue circuit and hopefully, sneak into
they say? What’s different about the Roadhouse Bob: We're outside barbecuing, rain or shine, sleet or
a kitchen or two.
today than when it opened 21 years ago? snow, like 362 days a year. Being able to barbecue in the
Bob: They would say this place has grown a lot! It’s an Sara: How would you describe the Roadhouse to elements is one of the hardest things to do. Whether it's
interesting question that I have never even thought those who have not been? raining or it’s hot, each adds variability to how we're
about. The changes from that summer before we opened Bob: I would say we try to make people feel at home. smoking and cooking things. I think our barbecue con-
to almost 21 years later. The different things we've added, It’s comfortable and lends itself to a lot of different oc- tinues to evolve and grow. We were probably one of the
like a patio, a gluten-free fryer, in-house butchering, and casions. Whether you're just going out for some oysters first and still one of the only places in Michigan that
so on. And then there’s looking back on all the folks that and wine with friends, a burger and a beer after work, does whole hog barbecue. We just brought in a new hog,
have come through our front door, the different things or celebrating an anniversary, birthday, or bar mitzvah! a heritage breed called the Red Waddle. It was almost

2 isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024

extinct in the ’90s, but we linked up with a 4th genera- 3. Ribeye steak. My favorite cut. Ours is butchered relationships with folks, I think that's pretty cool. It's a
tion farmer named Matt Bailey out in Schoolcraft, Mich- in-house. We break down two whole steers a week. For lot of fun to share new items on the menu and involve
igan who raises them. It's one of the best barbecue hogs about 16 years we’ve worked with a company called them in the process, asking them to taste it and tell me
I've ever had. We're gonna start doing Texas barbecue, E. R. Boliantz. They coordinate with Northern Ohio farm- what they think. It's a lot of fun for me and I think for
which is beef brisket that doesn't have sauce. It is just ers to bring us Black Angus steers. They are treated well, them because I don't think many folks expect that when
meat on display. I’m excited about what we’re bringing and the meat is super consistent with a really nice flavor. they go out to eat.
to the table. The steak is aged and cooked over oak. They're pretty Sara: Now that you say that, I've been offered samples
awesome. at the Roadhouse many times. I can't think of another
Sara: Red Rage, North Carolina, or South Carolina
Sara: Your sides with that steak? restaurant that's ever brought me a free sample.
barbecue sauce?
Bob: Red Rage. I love our other sauces just as much, Bob: Bacon-braised greens. They blew me away when I Sara: How do you think having the Westside Farm-
but that's what I put on more things because it's just started here and still do. Braised greens were not on my ers’ Market in your restaurant parking lot influ-
really good. radar growing up or even in my young adulthood. They ences the restaurant and the menu?
are awesome. I go with the grits second, which I still love Bob: I think it's one of the cooler things that we do,
Sara: Macaroni and cheese or grits?
and I could eat any time. You never know if you're gonna having that direct connection to farmers. When we talk
Bob: Like picking my favorite child! [Long pause] I would have room for that third one. I would probably go with about our role in the community, of being a place where
say grits, just because I feel like with the mac and cheese the pimento mac and cheese. the community gathers, I don't know if there's a better
I almost need a certain time of day to really enjoy it, one
Sara: I love the Roadhouse Just for Kids menu be- place for that than a farmers market. Come through and
where I can sit down for a few minutes afterward. Grits
cause there are so many options. What do your buy produce straight from the farmers and also enjoy it
I can eat at any time of the day. I like everything about
kids order? at the Roadhouse. Being able to go out and get some-
good grits. We get our heirloom grits from the great folks
thing from a farmer and put it on the menu that night is a
at Anson Mills in North Carolina. I like the creaminess Bob: I have an eleven-year-old son and a four-year-old
pretty cool thing. And we get to build these long-lasting
that comes out and how well it melds with the corn fla- daughter. She is still firmly in the mac and cheese stage.
relationships with the folks out there. They'll stop by at
vor when you cook them well. I like the simplicity of She'll eat any pasta that's in front of her. My son is just
other times and say, “Hey, I had this row of green beans
their grits and how well they go with and stand up to so starting to be like, “I think I want a whole burger or a full
that I thought weren't gonna grow anymore. Would you
many different flavors. basket of chicken.” He has always been a fried chicken
like them?” Which is an awesome thing for me personally
leg guy, but now he is in love with scallops. He yells at me
Sara: Sweet potato fries or mashed potatoes? and a cool thing for the restaurant.
if he comes in and we don't have them. He's like “Who's
Bob: Sweet potato fries for sure. I love our mashed po- running this place?” [Both laughing] Sara: What are you looking forward to in the fall
tatoes, but the sweet potato fries with the spicy mayo? that you will be putting on the menu?
I always tell people they are our secret weapon. They're Sara: Earlier you mentioned the Roadhouse being
a place where people celebrate events and mile- Bob: In early fall it's peppers. There are so many different
awesome.
stones. What type of event is the most frequently things that we can do with those. We will probably have
Sara: Pit-smoked chicken or fried chicken? celebrated? some form of panzanella salad using roasted squash and
Bob: Fried chicken, for sure. When we were growing up, peppers. Then as we get further into autumn, it's squash
Bob: Judging from the amount of birthday desserts
my family didn't do much cooking for family gatherings, and carrot season, so we’ll really be bringing those to the
that I see leaving the kitchen, birthdays are definitely
but we ate a whole lot of fast food fried chicken. Ours is forefront. One of the new farms we've been getting our
up there. (Editor’s note: Enjoy a free Donut Sundae on
200 times better in my book, so it's one of my favorites. lettuce greens from will have some spicy greens in the
your birthday at the Roadhouse!) I think with the size of
I can't really get enough of it. fall. There's very little I'm not excited about.
our restaurant and our capacity we're uniquely suited for
Sara: What do you think makes Roadhouse fried a lot of different celebrations, so we see engagements, Sara: What's next for the Roadhouse?
chicken so good? wedding rehearsal dinners, anniversary parties. Only a Bob: One of the things in front of my mind is elevat-
handful of weddings. ing the visibility of our barbecue program. I think we're
Bob: Our attention to the details. There's really good
chicken coming in our back door. Bringing in fresh, Sara: Wait, what?! probably one of the best barbecue places in Michigan
high-quality products is always a good starting point. Bob: I would say three or four. A couple of them even and I’d like to showcase that and bring it to more folks.
Then it's marinated for 24 hours. I think that the spice included the ceremony. Also, we’re looking at how we refresh ourselves—a din-
on it is pretty good. That seasoned, crispy, crunchy out- ing room facelift, updating our training, and innovating
Sara: What do you think the Roadhouse's role is in the service that we're giving to our staff and our guests.
side. We make it to order, and you can see the person
the Ann Arbor community? We will always look to improve on things.
making it. That's just a cool thing in my mind and adds
a whole lot to it. Bob: I think our role is being that place that folks can
Sara: What's next for you?
rely on. Kind of that bellwether in a storm where people
Sara: Donut sundae or brownie sundae? know come rain or shine that Monday through Sunday, Bob: I want to be here and continue to grow, both myself
Bob: [Said with zero hesitation] A donut sundae, for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, we're going to be open for and the restaurant. I don't imagine working anywhere
sure. The donuts by themselves are something fresh out them and we're gonna have a meal for them. We have a else because I don't think there's anywhere else like this.
of the fryer. But when you top it with some Creamery ge- warm place at the table for them. I think that's our role. I really enjoy the folks I get to work with and our vision
lato, fresh whipped cream, and bourbon caramel sauce? And regardless of where they're from or what they like, for the future. I'd like to focus on what restaurant work
It's an event. they can find something for themselves on the menu. It looks like and different ways I think we can move forward
can even be a place where our kids grow up. Lately, when and improve the quality of life for a lot of folks. Not just
Sara: If you were to recommend three items to a in this restaurant, but all restaurants.
we present our Welcome to the Roadhouse class to new
Roadhouse first-timer, what would they be? …………………………………………………………………………………………
staff members, some say, “This is the first restaurant I
Bob: My top three dishes would be: ever ate at so of course I'm working here.” Being that I feel like giving a hug and eating a fried chicken leg, and
1. Whole hog barbecue. Whether that’s the plate or the place for a lot of folks is pretty awesome. maybe hugging a fried chicken leg. Perhaps I need some
sandwich. This continues to be one of my favorite things warm Roadhouse bread and biscuits with butter and
Sara: I know you step out of the kitchen and spend
that we do. honey, too. How about you? Say hi to Bob for me if you
some time in the dining room from time to time.
2. North Carolina shrimp. Whether it's a shrimp burger dine at the chef’s counter. Enjoy the really good Ameri-
What do you learn from talking to the customers?
or shrimp po boy. They are just outstanding, probably can food, really great service, and a side of community
the best shrimp I've ever had. They're caught the right Bob: Usually Friday and Saturday nights I'm pretty much spirit and barbecue sauce. Try them all!
way. I don't think anyone is really getting them outside stationed in the dining room talking to folks at the chef’s
of North Carolina. They're delicious. counter and tables in the dining room. I think it's a lot
of fun getting to meet folks outside of the kitchen walls,
hearing their stories, where they're from, and what
Sara Hudson
brought them in that night. Being able to just build those
Zingerman’s Creative Services Director

Visit zingermansroadhouse.com

Blog: Menus: Services: Events:

learn more breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, reservations, drive-thru, special dinners,
about the food dessert, cocktails, bourbons & more! family size to-go, catering author visits & more

Follow: @zingermansroadhouse

isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024 3

 The essential importance of democratic
engagement at every level
Last summer, after many months of thinking about it, I sat down and wrote way we work here at Zingerman’s would not be possible, or even legal, in
an essay about democracy. To be honest, it took me a while. I waited in Putin’s Russia, a place where openly advocating LGBTQ+ rights can land you
hopes that my fears might prove unfounded and I could steer clear of in jail. All of which leads me to lean into the lessons in On Tyranny and try
the subject. For any number of reasons related to procrastination and to do what I can in dignity-based ways to keep democracy alive and well
avoidance, I’ve been putting off writing this for a while now. I’ve tried wherever I can. As Timothy Snyder tells us,
to teach myself over the years to push past the fear and write anyway. If we're going to be democratic, it's going to be because we care
And now, here I am. about it and we value the structures. And some of us at important
On the particular subject of democracy, I’m inspired by Timothy times are willing to take risks for those structures.
Snyder’s superb booklet On Tyranny: Twenty Lessons from the To be clear, this essay and the thoughts and fears it encompasses come
Twentieth Century. It contains a series of important steps that from me personally—while I don’t believe it’s in conflict with most of the
each of us can take to help keep our communities, our countries, folks who work in the ZCoB, as I write in the “Warning” notes that are on
and—in our case here in the Zingerman’s Community of Busi- the first page of each of the four parts of the Zingerman’s Guide to Good
nesses (ZCoB)—our companies, from sliding into authoritar- Leading books, “These are my views, not the officially agreed upon state-
ian models of governance and instead to stay grounded in ment of Zingerman’s.” I know that reality may be a bit awkward, but I also
democratic practice. When social pressure inclines us to know that is the nature of democracy. We are each individuals, and yet,
stay quiet, Snyder’s Lesson #8 calls upon us to, at the same time, we are each responsible for the whole. And the whole
8. Stand Out. Someone has to. It is easy to is responsible for us.
follow along. It can feel strange to do or say
something different. But without that unease, Making Democracy a Daily Reality
there is no freedom. The very practical point of this piece is not about any particular person
In the spirit of which, I am, indeed, writing this long-considered essay, or political party. Rather, it’s about principles, most particularly about
opting for dis-ease and democracy over the momentary illusion of peace the belief that being an active part of a democratic construct—in both our
that one can get from keeping quiet. To speak from the heart in what I hope companies and in our countries—is something we all need to intentionally
will come across in the caring and constructive way in which it is intended. and thoughtfully decide to do, if indeed we want to have one. At Zinger-
man’s, we have been consciously making that decision over and over again
What follows is about my belief that, awkward as it may be to bring up in
throughout the four-plus decades that we’ve been in business, to shift ever
a business context, democracy matters. And that if we lose democracy
more significantly towards democratic engagement inside our organization.
as a country, we will be hard-pressed—actually unlikely—to be able to
keep practicing it as a company. Democratic, dignity-based constructs in Writing this piece now is an acknowledgment of what I believe is the
companies, history shows very clearly, cannot continue for very long when gravity of a national situation; if things go much further awry, it seems
the country in which they operate abandons democracy for autocracy. The ever clearer to me that we will over time no longer be able to work in the

4 isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024

inclusive and values-based ways in which we have so long follow-up email, he asked me a question that has never Democracy, I’ve come to realize in recent months, is NOT the
been committed to working. come up in all my years of teaching: “What if there is no one spectator sport it’s so often portrayed to be. I have, I know,
While it’s clear that politics impacts democracy, and/or to tell an alternative story because they would be perceived fallen into that trap, but I’ve come to see a different truth.
can install autocracy, the truth is that this dedication to as anti-establishment or for fear of being persecuted?” We are not the fans watching a basketball game where we
democracy is not about politics. Politics may play into the I sat and stared at the screen for a few minutes trying to “boo” poor play and applaud what we like. The big names
way things are playing out in the world around us, but in think of what to write back in response. That something as may be the ones that get the headlines, but the real-life re-
the last few years, I have found myself realizing more and seemingly every day in the ZCoB as the sharing of a vision ality is that—whether it’s in our companies or our communi-
more that democracy, like diversity and climate and food could be the source of persecution and even incarcera- ties—you and I are the players. Democracy is not something
quality, is not a political issue but one of values. It’s about tion … stopped me in my mental tracks. The conversation, someone else provides for us; it’s what we do every day.
what Eddie Glaude, Jr., Professor of African American Stud- though, was well timed—it allowed me to tell this real-life As per what I wrote a couple weeks ago about Irish poet
ies at Princeton and author of We Are the Leaders We Have example above that, whether we like it or not, could happen Padraig O’Tuama’s terrific insight that community could be
Been Looking For, says: here if democracy dies in the coming years. In the country better experienced and lived as an action, not a noun, the
where he lives, the Zingerman’s 2032 Vision would be a very same can definitely also be said about democracy. It’s all
Democracy is an ethical ideal. And it’s an ethical
dangerous document to have published. The interaction about what we do. Belief is a prerequisite, but it’s the ac-
ideal that’s not reducible just to current institutions;
still has me shaken six days later. All of which reminds me, tion that ultimately makes the most meaningful difference.
it’s not reducible to just a philosophy. It’s really about
a certain way of being in the world. again, that this is not a time, as Timothy Snyder says, to Before I quit on the quotes, let me sneak in a 13th. It’s an-
“look away, as many of us are doing.” It is, instead, a time other bit of advocacy from historian and author Timothy
What follows then is, in part, about a feeling. It’s about
for action. Whether we like it not, whether we look at it or Snyder, who says,
history, acknowledging what has happened before in other
not, the clock is ticking. Business should support democracy.
countries and an assessment of what is currently happening
in our own. It’s about democracy, both in our business and We Might Well be Approaching Midnight In Germany, in the 1930, Snyder writes, business leaders
in the society that surrounds us. It’s an essay I would not Author, activist, and local legend Grace Lee Boggs would were not all enthused about Nazi authoritarianism. Still,
have imagined, even eight or nine years ago, that I would regularly ask audiences, “What time is it on the clock of they believed it would allow them to do business as they
be writing. It’s not meant to add to the noise and it’s not humanity?” Here we might transpose that to ask much the wanted, and so, they went along anyway. That, as we all
meant to provoke. I’m prompted to write because of our same of American democracy. know, turned out to be a tragically poor decision. Snyder
present-day situation here in the U.S., but I believe that says,
Unlike our current era, where the advent of cell phones
these ideas are equally relevant anywhere—inside our or- This was, in the end, very bad for business.
means the time is consistently correlated, the clock of de-
ganizations, in other countries, 10 years from now, and still Although the circumstances today are different,
mocracy is more like the older method of time telling. Dif-
too in 2082 when, I hope, the ZCoB will be celebrating a the general lesson is the same: whether they like
ferent people, I know, have different reads. In the context
century in business. it or not, business leaders bear responsibility for
of which, I can only say that in the clock in my head, we’re
The Marginalian’s Maria Popova posits, “One of the com- dangerously close to the two hands striking midnight. It whether a republic endures or is destroyed.
monest and most corrosive human reflexes is to react to is, I believe, time to pay attention and take action. To talk
helplessness with anger.” Anger is, as we know, a frequently The Business of Democracy and
gently to others. To make “The Revolution of Dignity in the
expressed feeling in the current state of the nation. Per- Twenty-First Century Workplace” that I wrote about in my
Democracy in Business
sonally, I’m not angry about where the country is at. Just most recent pamphlet into a reality. To increase inclusion. This essay—and the way we try to work here in the ZCoB
anxious. And I’m trying to channel the good advice I heard To help build hope. To have caring conversations. To be kind, every single day—is an imperfect attempt to very seriously
someone offer the other day: “Stop worrying and start work- especially to people with whom we may not agree. To deal, and very sustainably shoulder that responsibility. While
ing.” Or in my particular case, start writing. every day, all day, with dignity. And to consider engaging staying silent is easier in the moment, I am haunted by the
With all that said, here’s my ask: If you believe democracy in constructive ways so that democracy can be deepened words of German pastor Martin Niemöller, words I read
doesn’t matter, if you believe that your vote doesn’t matter, rather than discarded. studying the Holocaust many years ago:
if you believe that the voices of the people inside your or- You all know I like to quote other people whose perspec- First they came for the socialists, and I did not
ganizations don’t matter, I will make an appeal to consider tives I value—it brings other voices into the “conversation” speak out—because I was not a socialist.
changing those beliefs. As we say to each other here in the and, most importantly, I learn from others in the process.
ZCoB with great regularity, “You really do make a difference.” Because this is a complex issue about which I could write Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did
And so, for that matter, does everyone else. 10 times more than I have here, I thought I would quickly not speak out—because I was not a trade unionist.
sum up my thinking by sharing a dozen inspiring insights in
A Democratically Inclined Approach Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak
support of active democracy. All of these are people from
to the Workplace whom I have learned, and continue to learn, a lot. All have
out—because I was not a Jew.

To be clear, when I consider democracy, I am thinking of had an outsized influence on my beliefs over the years: Then they came for me—and there was no one left
both what it means here at Zingerman’s, inside our organi- to speak for me.
1. Margaret Atwood: “People take rights and freedoms for
zation, and also what it means on a much bigger scale—the
granted. They really shouldn’t.” Niemöller was certainly not the only one who regretted not
country. While we do not vote here in the ZCoB, we are,
saying something. Part of actualizing democracy—whether
in many ways, a very democratic organization. We have 2. Heather Cox Richardson: “People had better start pay-
in our companies or our countries—is speaking up in caring,
been running the organization by consensus of our Partners ing attention.”
dignity-based ways when we see something going ethically
Group (which includes 22 people) for 30 years now. We’ve 3. Grace Lee Boggs: “In times of crisis you either deepen awry. It is always awkward, but also important. Democracy,
used Open Book Management for almost as long. Nearly all democracy, or you go to the other extreme and become in the end, is not about candidates. Just common folk like
our meetings (there are exceptions where privacy is import- totalitarian.” you and me, the people we work with, and our neighbors
ant) are essentially open to anyone who works here. We are
4. Rabbi Abraham Heschel: “In a free society, some are next door. As Tom Atlee, author of Co-Intelligence. wisely
working to spread ownership throughout the organization
guilty, but all are responsible.” advises,
ever more widely. While we can certainly be more inclusive
and equitable than we currently are, it is clear that, despite 5. Timothy Snyder: “Democracy is precious and exceptional. Every action, no matter how small, contributes to
our imperfections, we are on the more equitable and in- … [it] is undone from within rather than from without. … The the unfolding of the world’s future. We can’t not
clusive end of the spectrum among 21st-century American occasion to undo democracy is often an election.” participate.
organizations. We are strongly committed here to continu- 6. James Baldwin: “Not everything that is faced can be It is not easy to do. At least not for me. In fact, it’s remark-
ing to work in a values-based way for many decades into changed. But nothing can be changed until it is faced.” able how quickly, and almost unconsciously, the anxiety
the future, as we have committed through the Zingerman’s evoked by the implicit implications of autocracy can impact
Perpetual Purpose Trust. 7. John Dewey: “Every generation has to accomplish democ- our actions. The day after the Supreme Court conferred
racy over again for itself.” what my history major’s mind assimilates as an odd ap-
In recent years, it has become increasingly, awkwardly
and painfully, clear to me that we will only be able to do 8. Rohini Nilekani: “We cannot be mere consumers of proximation of kingly powers on the American president
that while living in a (highly imperfect, of course) dem- good governance, we must be participants; we must be last summer, I started to have subconscious concerns about
ocratic society. In places where inequity and autocracy co-creators.” writing this long-planned piece. I considered not writing it
prevail, the positive things you and I take for granted— because if a local official took issue with it, they could make
9. Thurgood Marshall: “This is your democracy. Make it.
prerequisites and standard ways of working in the type our organizational lives very difficult, leaving us with no
Protect it. Pass it on.”
of business community we are dedicated to creating—can effective means of recourse. Fortunately, I’ve grown ever
10. Daniel Pink: “Inaction regrets are, in general, about twice more mindful of Lesson #1 in Timothy Snyder’s On Tyranny:
quickly become impossible.
as prevalent as action regrets.”
I’ll share a real-life example that came up unexpectedly this 1. Do not obey in advance. Most of the power of au-
11. Peter Drucker: “You can either take action, or you can thoritarianism is freely given. In times like these,
past summer. I was emailing with someone I’ve gotten to
hang back and hope for a miracle. Miracles are great, but individuals think ahead about what a more repres-
know over the years through this enews. He lives abroad, in
they are so unpredictable.” sive government will want, and then offer them-
another country—a place that has a constitution that says
it’s a democracy, but where, in practice, autocratic power, 12. Eddie Glaude, Jr.: “The answer to the troubles in this selves without being asked. A citizen who adapts
arbitrarily applied, is still the unfortunate norm. Last week, country, as it has always been, rests with the willingness in this way is teaching power what it can do.
he and I were exchanging thoughts about visioning. In a of everyday people to fight for democracy.” If we believe that democracy matters, for our businesses,

isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024 5

 • Consider ways to make “community” into something we
for the people we care about, for our communities, and and my own life as good as I could make them. It’s late in
work every day to create, not just something in which
yes, for our country then working to actively engage more the democratic day, but hopefully, it’s not too late to change
we show up.
with democratic ways of being is important. Per Natural my ways. Stop worrying. Start working. Which in my case,
Law #18, “Everything is Interconnected.” Effective democ- also means start writing. • While voting is only one element of what makes de-
racy in the country depends on each of us actively imple- My hope here is that maybe a few more people will get in- mocracy democracy, it does still matter. Please consider
menting democratic and inclusive and equitable principles volved, a handful of people here and a handful there might it in the coming election, and every election after that.
everywhere we go. If we do our work well, we will get the be persuaded that their voice and their vote matter, and I’m aligned with what actress Taraji P. Henson said a few
opportunity to keep democratizing as we move forward to- maybe a few of them will encourage others they care about weeks ago: “This is not a game … I'm not trying to scare
gether. If we don’t … we don’t know. Timothy Snyder shares to do the same and that when I sit down to write in this same us, I'm trying to inform us. You're gonna be mad about a
this perspective: third week of July each year going forward that American lot of things if you don't vote.”
The hero of a David Lodge novel says that you don’t democracy will be stronger, not weaker. And that Zinger- • Perhaps more than any one single thing, work to make
know, when you make love for the last time, that man’s will still freely be moving towards being the more the six elements of the revolution of dignity into a daily
you are making love for the last time. Voting is inclusive, equitable, and dignity-based organization we reality.
like that. Some of the Germans who voted for the have envisioned and imagined. It is certainly possible, I know, that I’m overthinking things
Nazi Party in 1932 no doubt understood that this The other day I was sitting with ZingTrain managing part- and that democracy is not really at risk. We have long here
might be the last meaningfully free election for ner Katie Frank, talking through the 2 ½ hour session we’ll agreed to live in harmony with Natural Law #9 which says
some time, but most did not. … Any election can be teaching tomorrow about governance over a couple of that: “Success means you get better problems.” If I am over-
be the last, or at least the last in the lifetime of the cups of the Chiapas coffee. She shared with me, “Sometimes reacting, and the situation is less serious than it seems to
person casting the vote. you don’t realize how strongly you feel about something me today, well … I far, far prefer that problem to the alter-
How did we get here? In a talk at Penn State last week, until someone violates it.” And so, here we are. As Anne native. In his most recent book, The Power of Regret, Dan-
historian Anne Applebaum, whose most recent book is Applebaum explains, iel Pink says,
Autocracy, Inc.: The Dictators Who Want to Run the World, The difference between democracy succeeding or There’s some sad stories in the book where the door
advised that, failing is of course a million different decisions has closed, and people couldn’t act. With those, you
The great mistake that we made over the last sev- taken by people like you. … We should think about have to actually feel that spear of pain and say,
eral decades was precisely that we believed this it as something that we all have to participate in, “Okay, I blew it this time. I gotta do better next time.”
promise of inevitability. We believed that democ- that we will have to make some effort if we want
The problem is that when it comes to democracy, that last
racy was a thing like running water, that you just it to succeed in the future.
bit may not be possible. History shows that when democ-
didn't have to do very much to have it. You could It's easy, I know, to think of ourselves as irrelevant—I too racy disappears, it almost never comes back quickly, if at all.
just let some professional politicians do their jobs can slip into what philosopher Otto Scharmer says is “the In Germany in the 1930s and ’40s, many millions died and
and you could get on with making money or paint- illusion of insignificance.” And yet, I believe, there is a lot countries were destroyed in the process. And the problem
ing pictures or whatever it is that you wanted to we can do. What does it look like to make democracy into right now, in my belief, is that “next time” might not be in
do. And like running water coming out of a tap you an action step? In the moment it looks like much of what I our lifetime.
wouldn't have to make any special effort to make have already written about elsewhere:
democracy work. When I feel frustrated, fearful, discouraged, or down, I
• Work to increase inclusion and be ever more active par- remind myself that even seemingly small actions will
I am, absolutely, guilty as Applebaum has charged. Up until ticipants in our communities, our companies, and our over time add up to big things. I come back over and
recent years I have not given much thought to whether countries. over again to these words from Timothy Snyder who re-
or not democracy would be there for the next election to
• Help people have hope—as author Ai Jen Poo posits, “I minds me that “a tiny bit of courage, a tiny bit of truth, can
unfold. As you can tell, my sense of things has shifted sig-
think that the most underrated and most valuable ingre- change history.”
nificantly.
dient to a functioning democracy is hope.”
You Really do Make a Difference • Engage in meaningful, caring, and kind conversations,
When I was a kid, I was as much a fan of politics as football. especially with those with whom we may not agree on
As I got older though, I grew gradually more disenchanted important issues. As Paul taught me 42 years ago, “When
furious, get curious.” There are many good organizations Ari Weinzweig
with politics. Yes, as an adult, I always voted. Yes, I had
opinions that I was willing to share if anyone had asked, but leading this work. Co-Founding Partner,
mostly, I kept them to myself, hoping quietly that the candi- • Explore and implement more democratically oriented Zingerman’s Community of Businesses
dates whose views were more aligned with mine would win. governance models.
I mostly spent my energies working to make our workplace

Hayley Mills sang,“Let’s get together every day, every way, and everywhere.”
Here at ZingTrain, we say, “Let’s get together when and where it’s most convenient for your
team.” (We’re probably going to skip the singing, but we’re totally on board with her prediction
that it’ll be a swingin’ time.) Three ways we can meet up:
Transformative
Business Training and You Come To Us
We’re huge fans of getting away from the office to learn. Come to ZingTrain
and we’ll take care of all of the details to deliver the entire Zingerman’s Expe-
Leadership Development rience, including some truly excellent food (reportedly even better than the
dining hall at Miss Inch’s Summer Camp).

tett
toogg
eteher (y
theerah, y
s t’e
g sg
et’ Le
eah, y e ah )
L (Yeah, y eah h)
y e,a We’ll Come To You
We’ve got our vintage suitcases packed and are ready to hit the road! Our
most popular option, this is ideal for teams who want to have as many folks
as possible attend training close to home

We Meet Online
alL that w
think of Learn virtually from wherever you are, from a California horse ranch to a
e co uld sha-a-are Boston townhome and beyond! Our virtual workshops include the hallmarks
of a great ZingTrain experience: plenty of opportunities to ask questions,
Hayley Mills sang, have small group discussions, and share learnings with each other.
“Let’s get together every day,
th i n k could sha-a-are
of alL that we
every way, and everywhere.”
Get together at zingtrain.com
6 isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024
 A One-of-a-Kind Venue for Your Once-in-a-Lifetime Day
Weddings at Cnman Farms
Whether the wedding of your dreams is indoor or outdoor, tiny or loaded with loved ones, our idyllic 27-acre property in Dexter, Michigan, just
minutes outside of Ann Arbor, has stunning event spaces that will provide the perfect backdrop to your celebrations.
People often tell us there’s something about Cornman Farms that feels like home. Something warmly nostalgic. Maybe it’s our classic, lovingly
restored red barn, or our picture-perfect white farmhouse, complete with porch and rocking chairs. Perhaps it’s the big maple trees, sunflowers, or
sweeping lawn. Maybe it’s the smell of fresh-baked bread pudding wafting out of our farmhouse kitchen, or the love and care shown by each member
of our team. What matters most is this: you’ll feel right at home here. And, we take care of everything, giving you the chance to relax and be fully
present for every magical moment. What could be more important on your most special days?
At Cornman Farms, we want to be not just a backdrop to your most important day, but an important part of your love story.
Your family story. Because once you host your wedding here, you become part of our story too.

The staff was beyond helpful in the lead-up Loved that they took care of everything for us. We didn't Thank you guys for everything! All of the
to the wedding—answering dozens and have to do anything! I also love that our wedding staff were so helpful and amazing and
dozens of questions (sometimes the same package included the flowers, cake, dinner, officiant, almost every guest told us how amazing
ones more than twice)—and then went above music, beverages, games, and a 3-hour photographer. It the food was (the best wedding food
and beyond during. Seeing the staff mingle was the best deal! Oh let's not forget the goats which they've ever had) and how beautiful the
with our parents and guests made it feel like was extra but they were the highlight of our ceremony, so property was. We've been planning this day
getting married in a family member's fricken adorable! … The wedding we had was exactly for 5 years (including Covid putting a halt
backyard, which was the exact low-key vibe what we wanted and envisioned. If you're looking for a to everything) and it couldn't have gone
we were going for. stress-free wedding, check out Cornman Farms! better.

Get in touch for a perfectly planned, expertly executed event:

Visit www.zingermanscornmanfarms.com • Call (734) 619-8100 • Email [email protected]

Is hir ing for t h e ho l i d ays!

Wanna make some extra money to spend on gifts this holiday season? Interested in an employee discount you can use to stock the pantries of
everyone you know? Always wanted to work for Zingerman's? Well, the time is now! We need folks to answer phones, cut cheese, drive
forklifts, pack boxes, clean, cook employee meals, and so much more!
Working at Zingerman’s Mail Order can be more than just extra spending money, it can be a (delicious) career. In fact, 99% of our full-time
employees started as seasonal help for the holidays, folks like:

Sarah Calhoun Number of Holidays: 10

Troy Miller Number of Holidays: 4 Current Role: Floor Lead
Current Role: Receiving Supervisor & Trainer; Staff Partner
I had just graduated college and wasn’t finding much so
I didn’t know too much about Zingerman’s when I first applied, but the
my best friend told me to come work for the holidays
job felt like more than just some warehouse job, it felt like things were while I figured it all out. I loved it right away. It was the
happening here. The more I learned about Zingerman’s Community, the people and the energy I loved most.
more I realized how connected we all were and that blew me away. Favorite thing about Mail Order: The people. I’m on
Favorite thing about Mail Order: It’s my the leadership team because I care about the people on
favorite thing about Zingerman’s in general, really, the front line and I want to give them the best service I
but it’s all the opportunities you can find here. can. To me, that’s what matters beyond the number of
After I was hired after the holidays, I found boxes going out the door: the people I get to work with
other things to do around the other every day.
businesses, like Roadhouse Catering. What’s it like working here? Our processes serve the
What’s it like working here? There’s energy, people. We try to make the right thing the easiest thing
there’s music, there’s a culture and we’re all in possible and it feels good to work that way. We need folks
it. For me, it’s a job with purpose and even when to answer phones, cut cheese, drive forklifts, pack boxes,
it’s busy, it’s still cool. clean, cook employee meals, and so much more!

Paid training, paid breaks, free meals, discounted shopping at Zingerman’s

and other local businesses, lots of tastes, learnings, and friend-making!
Shifts are available now and run through the end of December.
Learn more &
Not interested but know someone who is? Please share this with them.
Who knows? They may harbor dreams of working at Zingerman's and this
Apply today at
could be their chance! zingermansjobs.com!

isSue #306 . sept-oct 2024 7

 Zingerman’s Southside
A local gem for great food and learning
Zingerman’s Southside is a collection of Zingerman’s businesses on the… you guessed it… south side of Ann
Arbor. Tucked into an industrial park, near the intersection of State Street and Ellsworth Road, this hidden
food and learning destination on Plaza Drive is not to be missed. When you see the orange roofs, you’ll know
you’re in the right spot to discover what the Southside has to offer!

A full-service bakery, we make breads, pastries,

and cakes using traditional recipes, time-honored We source beans from across the world, roast them
processes, and flavorful ingredients, like freshly in small batches, and serve our single estate coffees
milled regional grains processed in our own stone at our café (prepared using hand brew methods)
mills. along with a menu of tasty toasts.

We carry hundreds of items in our Candy Store, like craft

chocolates, Scandinavian licorice, Italian marzipan, Span- A teaching bakery with dozens of different
ish nougat, nostalgic hard candies, and gummy candies. hands-on baking and cooking classes, available
We also make dozens of items in-house, like candy bars, in-person at our classroom kitchens or online.
peanut brittle, marshmallows, and seasoned peanuts.

We're dedicated to crafting handmade, full-fla- We share Zingerman’s unique approach to business with
vored cheeses and gelati using traditional meth- forward-thinking organizations through in-person sem-
ods and great ingredients, like high-quality milk inars and workshops, virtual workshops, personalized
from small-scale regional farmers. training, books, and digital learning.

3723 Plaza Dr. #5

3723 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3711 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 422 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 (inside Coffee Co.) Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3723 Plaza Dr. #5 Ann Arbor, MI 48108
734.761.7255 | bakewithzing.com 734.761.2095 | zingermansbakehouse.com 734.663.3400 | zingermanscatering.com 734.619.6666 | zingermanscandy.com 734.929.6060 | zingermanscoffee.com

8540 Island Lake Rd. Dexter, MI 48130 3723 Plaza Dr. #2 Ann Arbor, MI 48108 422 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 620 Phoenix Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 100 N Ashley St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103
734-619-8100 | cornmanfarms.com 734.929.0500 | zingermanscreamery.com 734.663.3354 | zingermansdeli.com 888.316.2736 | zingermansfoodtours.com 734.230.2300 | zingermansgreyline.com

610 Phoenix Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 415 N. Fifth Ave. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 418 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 2501 Jackson Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 3728 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108
888.636.8162 | zingermans.com 734.275.0099 | misskimannarbor.com 734.663.5282 | zingermansdeli.com 734.663.3663 | zingermansroadhouse.com 734.930.1919 | zingtrain.com