International Journal of Health Sciences and Research

Volume 14; Issue: 7; July 2024

Website: www.ijhsr.org
Review Article ISSN: 2249-9571

Herbal Creams: An Overview

Jayita Roy1, Arna Pal1, Sudipta Chakraborty1, Ayon Haldar1, Malay Biswas1
1
BCDA College of Pharmacy and Technology, Maulana Abul Kalam Azad University of Technology, Hridaypur,
Kolkata, 700127, West Bengal, India.

Corresponding Author: Jayita Roy

DOI: https://doi.org/10.52403/ijhsr.20240717

ABSTRACT

Semi solid dosage forms that are usually applied topically on skin are called creams. This study
mainly focuses on the preparation and evaluation of herbal creams along with some of the
common herbs utilized in these types of formulations. The herbal cream is basically water in oil
type of emulsion. The natural ingredients chosen for preparation of herbal cream are Turmeric,
Papaya, Aloe-Vera, Tulsi, Amla, Cucumber, Neem. The choice of these ingredients is based on
their individual properties. The preparation of the cream is basically done by using the cream
base i.e., liquid paraffin, beeswax, borax, methyl paraben. These formulations can be evaluated
by various parameters like pH, viscosity, irritancy, spreadability, microbial growth, thermal
stability, homogeneity, acid value, saponification value, accelerated stability studies, patch test,
smear test, after feel, washability, physical properties, dye test, after feel, in vitro diffusion study,
etc. Chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the skin and an increased awareness among
consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and natural extracts in
cosmetics preparations. The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in
cosmeceutical market. The natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side effects on
the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and other useful minerals.

Keywords: Cosmetics, herbal creams, semisolid dosage forms, turmeric, aloe vera.

INTRODUCTION also preventing skin disorders and promoting

The word "cosmetics," that means to adorn, long-term health.
originates from the Greek word "cosmetics." The artificial or natural components found in
From that time, any product administered to skin care products that preserve the skin's
improve or enhance appearance is commonly elasticity, health, texture, and integrity as well
known as a cosmetic. In reality, the word as moisturize and reduce type I collagen while
"cosmetics" emerged in Ancient Rome. They providing photoprotection, among other
are made by using a desired amount of wax benefits.[6] This cosmetic's long-lasting ability
and cocoa butter.[1-3] Cosmetic products to modify skin qualities and significantly
enhance the overall appearance and beauty of reduce the build-up of free radicals in the skin
skin while protecting it against internal as is the outcome of elements found in skin care
well as external harmful agents.[4-5] Cosmetics formulation. Whenever it involves preventing
are used to improve one's outward look while unnecessary imperfections in the skin
especially hyperpigmentation, aging, creases,

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

and rough skin texture, among others, massage, vanishing, night, cleansing, cold,
cosmetic products are the most effective and foundation creams.[18]
option.[7-8] The consumer demand towards
herbal beauty products increasing rapidly. HERBAL CREAMS
Plant components used when Herbal creams are emulsions which includes
preparing cosmetic should have variety of both oil and water. They may contain things
characteristics, including antibacterial, like neem, papaya, aloe vera, Tulsi, and
emollient, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and turmeric.[19] Different tinctures, extracts, and
antioxidant.[9] In comparison to products essential oils can be found in herbal creams.
containing synthetic compounds, natural Vitamins and minerals are natural nutrients
products are believed to have less adverse found in herbal creams, which are free of
consequences. In contrast to synthetic synthetic additives that might be toxic. [19-21]
products, which are toxic to human health, a
term "herbal" emphasizes safety. The market TYPES OF HERBAL CREAMS
statistics shows that the herbal industry is They fall into two categories:
a)
gradually increasing, with the herbal Oil-in-water (O/W) Creams: Creams
cosmetics sector adding greatly to the global that consist of small oil droplets
demand for herbal goods. [10-11] distributed in a continuous phase are
Both men and women use cosmetics like referred to as oil-in-water (O/W) creams.
colognes, gels, and moisturizers on a daily Whereas, an emulsion containing oil
basis. In many situations, creams function as a droplets dispersed across the aqueous
face cleanser. [12-13] Cosmetic creams act as phase is referred to as an oil-in-water
skin food for dry, chapped, and hard skin. It (O/W) emulsion.[22]
basically softens, lubricates, and eliminates b) Water-in-oil (W/O) Creams: creams
the skin of undesirable dirt. Vaseline and consisting of water combined with oil in a
Lanolin are some of the widely used fat continuous phase, are referred to as water-
creams. Soap and gelatin, which function as in-oil (W/O) creams. The emulsion is
the skin's base, are produced from dry considered to be water-in-oil (W/O) type
creams.[14] Cosmetics enhance our looks and when the dispersed phase is water and the
boost our self-esteem. Based on the dispersion medium is oil.[23]
abundance of cosmetics available today, it is
evident they are extremely essential to daily PREPARATION OF HERBAL CREAMS
existence.[15] Vast types of plants and plant products are
used in manufacturing of different types of
CREAMS herbal creams which are intended for different
Creams are semisolid dosage forms that are aims of applications. However, all the
administered topically to the skin, on the eye's methods follow some common chain process
surface, or applied rectally, vaginally, or that can be presented as follows.
through the nose for medical, preventive, or The process starts with the collection of raw
cosmetic purposes.[16] Face cream is used plant materials which after procurement are
topically to achieve a softening and cleansing cleaned and quality assessment of the same
effect. Skin creams possess two main are performed. Thereafter depending on need
purposes: they protect the skin from these are dried or processed as such. In the
environmental pollutants and provide skin next step the raw plant materials, wherever
with a calming effect.[14,17] There are different applicable, are extracted utilizing standard
kinds of cream, namely hand and body methods and specific solvents or juice/gels

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

are collected using standard methods. The oil 3. It should spread freely across skin when
phase preparation is the next step where liquid applied.
paraffin and beeswax are heated to 75 °C 4. When applied to skin, it should melt or
consistently which yields the oil phase to be liquefy at body temperature.
used in creams. 5. Be non-irritating and not produce skin
Borax and methyl paraben are mixed with inflammation.[24]
distilled water are heated to 75 °C to create a
clear solution. This is known as preparation of ADVANTAGES
aqueous phase. Once the oil phase is heated, 1. Ease of application.
gradually water phase is added to it and 2. Easy to utilize.
mixed which is then followed by addition of 3. Steering clear of danger.
the herb extract or juices or jelly to yield 4. There is no special risk or technician
smooth creams. Finally appropriate aroma is needed for application.
added and the product is ready to be packed. 5. Avoid drug level fluctuations in the event
[24-26] of intra- and inter-patient variance.
6.
Very good patient adherence.[25]
COMMON EXCIPIENTS AND THEIR The benefit of employing cream formulations
ROLES is their practicality; they can be applied
Many of different types of excipients are used directly to the skin without leaving any traces
in the formulations of creams or herbal behind, and they are simple to wash and
creams. Few of very common and extensively clean.[26]
utilized excipients are bees wax and liquid
paraffin which are used as emulsifier, LIMITATIONS
thickener and lubricating agent respectively. 1. It can be used primarily for medications
A very common alkaline agent is borax which that require extremely little plasma
reacts with emulsifying agent to form soap. concentration for effect.
Methyl paraben is one of the most extensively 2. It increases the risk of allergic reaction.
used preservatives in such type of products. 3. Larger particle-sized medications are
For different types of attractive fragrances difficult to absorb through skin pores.
usually compatible flower extracts or volatile 4. Possibility of contact dermatitis or skin
oils are mixed for such purpose. [25-28] irritation from any medication.[27]

IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS COMMON HERBS UTILIZED IN

1. Good penetration ability, allowing the HERBAL CREAMS
medication in the cream to absorb into the Many types of herbs are exploited for their
skin to deliver the intended effect. different medicinal and cosmetic preparations.
2. It should not be poisonous in order to Some of the most common in herbal creams
prevent undesirable skin reactions, such as are summarized in the following table 1. [24-29]
itching, rashes, or redness.

Table 1: Common herbs in herbal cream preparations

Common Name Part used Chemical Constituents Uses
Neem Leaves of Nimbidin, Nimbidal, Nimbin, Limonoids Anti-oxidant,
Azadirachta indica Antiseptic,
Anti-ageing,
Treats acne
Aloe vera Leaves of Aloe Salicylic Acid, Aloesin, Aloeresin A, Anti-oxidant,
barbadensis Aloeresin E, Isoaloeresin D Cleansing,

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

Moisturising,
Soothing.
Amla Fruits of Emblica Ascorbic Acid, Gallic Acid, Emblicanin A, Antioxidant,
officinalis Emblicanin B Anti-Inflammatory,
Anti-ageing,
Antimicrobial.
Cucumber Fruits of Cucumus Cucurbitacin D, Vitamin C, Folic acid Anti-oxidant,
sativus L. Anti-microbial,
Cooling,
Soothing.
Turmeric Dried rhizomes of Curcumin and curcuminoids Anti-oxidant,
Curcuma longa Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Antimicrobial,
Treats acne.
Tulsi Leaves of Ocimum Oleanolic Acid, Ursolic Acid, Linalool, Antimicrobial,
sanctum Linn Rosmarinic Acid Antifungal,
Antibacterial,
Antioxidant.
Anti-aging
Clove Dried flower buds Eugenol, Eugenol acetate, Caryophyllene Anti-oxidant,
of Antimicrobial,
Eugenia Antifungal,
caryophyllus Anti-Inflammatory.

EVALUATION OF HERBAL CREAM

Physical
Saponific evaluation
ation pH
value

Acid Irritancy
value Test

Evaluation
Type of Spreadab
smear of ility
herbal cream
Dye test Viscosity

Homogen
Removal
eity
After feel

Figure 1: Different parameters of evaluation of herbal creams

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

Physical evaluation t = amount of time spent.[34]

The following physical characteristics are
used to evaluate the herbal cream Viscosity
formulations. [28] By using spindle no. 7 and a Brookfield
a. Color: The cream's color is identified viscometer set to 100 rpm, one can measure
through visual inspection. the viscosity of herbal cream formulations.[29]
b. Odor: The cream's odor is mostly
distinctive. Homogeneity
c. Consistency: A manual rubbing of the The homogeneity of the formulation can be
cream on the hand is used to assess the evaluated by touch and appearance.[30]
formulation. The consistency of the cream
is smooth. No oily residue must be left on After feel
the skin's surface after the use of the Checks were made for emollience,
cream. slipperiness, and amount of residue remaining
d.
State: The cream's condition is visually after applying a set amount of cream.[35]
inspected. The cream must be in a
semisolid form. [29-31] Removal
The treated area should be washed with tap
pH water in order to determine how easily the
A digital pH meter can be used to measure the herbal creams could be removed.[36]
pH of the produced herbal cream. After
preparing the cream solution with 100 Dye test
milliliters of distilled water, it should be left The cream is combined with the scarlet color.
for two hours. For the answer, pH should be Under a microscope, observe a small amount
measured three times, and the average value of cream that has been placed on a slide and
of the solution must be computed.[32] protected with a cover slip. It is an o/w type if
the dispersed globule appears reddish while
Irritancy test the ground appears colorless; w/o type creams
On the left dorsal surface, mark an area of one exhibit the opposite characteristic.[37]
square centimeter. Cover the designated area
with cream, and record the time. For up to 24 Type of smear
hours, irritability, erythema, and edema must After the cream is applied, the kind of smear
be monitored and reported at regular or film that developed on the surface of the
intervals.[33] skin is examined.[38]

Spreadability Acid value

A sufficient amount of cream is divided After precisely weighing and dissolving 10
between two glass slides, and the slides are grams of the material in 50 milliliters of an
subjected to a 5-minute weight application of equal volume mixture of alcohol and solvent
100 grams. The spreadability of the two slides ether, the flask is to be connected to a reflux
are measured by monitoring the movement of condenser and heated gradually until the
the upper glass slide over the lower slide, or sample is completely dissolved. 1 ml of
the amount of time needed to separate them. phenolphthalein should be then added, and the
The formula for it is S= m x l/t. mixture is titrated with 0.1N NaOH until a
Where, m = weight on the upper slide. faint pink color appeared after 30 seconds of
l = length travelled on the glass slide. shaking.

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

Acid value = n x 5.61/w A 2023 study projects that the herbal

n = the amount of ml of NaOH required. cosmetics market will expand at a compound
w = the weight of substance.[8] annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.83%
throughout 2022 to 2027, [40] resulting in a
Saponification value $34.64 billion value rise.[41]
After adding approximately 2 grams of the Here are some further market estimations for
material to 25 milliliters of 0.5 N alcoholic herbal beauty products:
KOH and refluxing it for 30 minutes, 1 2021: The market was estimated to be worth
milliliter of phenolphthalein should be added $18,840.72 million.
and titrated right away with 0.5 N HCL. 2022: The market was valued at $75.1 billion.
2023–2028: The market is expected to grow
Saponification value = (b-a) x 28.05/w at a CAGR of 5.6% to reach $104.43 billion
a =The volume in ml of titrant. in 2028.
b = The volume in ml of titrate. 2023–2032: The market is expected to grow
w = The weight of substance in gm.[39] at a CAGR of 5% to reach $137.79 billion by
2032.
GLOBAL BUSINESS ASSESSMENT OF 2024–2029: The market is expected to grow
HERBAL COSMETICS INDUSTRY at a CAGR of 6.90% to reach $155.11 billion
Yearly growth of herbal cosmetics industry by 2029. [42-43]

2025
2024
2023
2022
2021
2020
2019
2018
Personal-care products
2017
2016 Skin-care products
2015 Color cosmetics
2014 Fragnances
2013
Beauty tech
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005

Figure 2: Global Beauty-Industry Retail Sales

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 Jayita Roy et. al. Herbal creams: an overview

CONCLUSION 2019;2(4):54-79. doi:10.36348/sijcms.

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Assessment of financial and environmental
impacts of pre-mining methane drainage in How to cite this article: Jayita Roy, Arna Pal,
Indian scenario: A case study using Jharia Sudipta Chakraborty, Ayon Haldar, Malay Biswas.
coal seams. Innovation and Green Herbal creams: an overview. Int J Health Sci Res.
2024; 14(7):136-144. DOI:
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