Lancelot

Designed by Lisa Mauser

Materials:

• Size H/5 mm crochet hook;

• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;
• 4 stitch markers;
• Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choice.
I used the following colors (note letters for land version, number for Celtic version):

Lancelot by Land Celtic Colorway

(photo right) (photo end)
A Graphite 1 Greybeard
B Sungold 2 Sea Blue
C Burnt Pumpkin 3 Antique Teal
D Red 4 Navy
E Aubergine 5 Light Sage
F Greybeard 6 Forest
G Purple
H Mid Green
I Mixed Berry
All yarns Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn

Hook Size/Gauge:

Using an H size hook I was able to obtain a 12” square.

Basic Terms/Abbreviations (US):

ch – chain BPsc – back post single crochet

yo – yarn over BPhdc – back post half double crochet
slst – slip stitch BPdc – back post double crochet
sc – single crochet FPsc – front post single crochet
hdc – half double crochet FPdc – front post double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – triple crochet

For reference ease, special stitches are defined in the rounds they are used in. In-round notes are
highlighted blue.

Please note, before beginning this pattern – this pattern is complex and will likely need some light
blocking. I found that with acrylic yarn that a few puffs of steam worked like a charm.

Copyright 2020, Lisa Mauser - Page 1 of 9

Beginning Loop:

With color A/1, ch-4. Join with a slst to beginning ch – beginning loop made.

Round 1:

Ch 3 – counts as beginning dc. Dc in beginning loop, [ch 3, 2 dc in beginning loop] 3 times. Ch

3, join with a slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3.

If keeping the same color: DO NOT fasten off. 8 dc and 4 ch-3 space

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Fasten off. 8 dc and 4 ch-3 space

Round 2:

If keeping the same color: Ch-3 – counts as beginning dc. Continue with pattern below.

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Join color B/2 with a standing dc in the first dc of any 2-dc
set. Continue with pattern below.

Dc between the stitch just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch. [Ch 4, skip
the ch-3 space, dc in the next stitch, dc between the stitch just worked in and the next
stitch, dc in the next stitch] 3 times. Ch 4, skip the next ch-3 space, join with a slst in the
3rd ch of beginning ch-3 or beginning dc.

If keeping the same color: DO NOT fasten off. 12 dc and 4 ch-4 spaces.

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Fasten off. 12 dc and 4 ch-4 spaces

Round 3:

Special Stitch – Extra Large Extended mini puff – XLxmp - yo, insert hook into indicated stitch or space,
pull up a loop – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into same indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 5
LOOP ON HOOK. Yo, pull through 3 loops, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

If keeping the same color: Ch-3 – counts as beginning dc. Continue with pattern below.

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Join color C/3 with a standing dc in the first dc of any 3-dc
set. Continue with pattern below.

[XLxmp between the stitch just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch]
2 times. *Ch 4, skip the next ch-4 space, dc in the next stitch, [XLxmp between the
stitch just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch] 2 times.* Repeat *
to * 2 more times, ch 4, skip the next ch-3 space and join with a slst to 3rd ch of
beginning ch-3 or beginning dc.

If keeping the same color: DO NOT fasten off. 12 dc, 8 XLxmp, and 4 ch-4 spaces.

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Fasten off. 12 dc, 8 XLxmp, and 4 ch-4 spaces.

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Round 4:

Special Stitch – Extended Triple 3 Together – ex tr3tog - Yo 2 times, insert hook into first indicated stitch
or space and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through 2 loops twice – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo 2 times, insert
hook into second indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through 2 loops twice – 3
LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo 2 times, insert hook into last indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop. Yo and
pull through 2 loops twice – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo and pull through 2 loops, Yo and pull through last 3
loops.

If keeping the same color: Ch 5, ex tr3tog in the same stitch as join and the next 2 stitches.
Continue with pattern below.

If changing colors (both pattern versions): Join color D/4 with a slst in any ch-4 space – make your
slst on the left side of the space just before the first dc of any first dc of a side. Ch 5, ex tr3tog in the
next 3 stitches. Continue with pattern below.

*Ch 2, ex tr3tog in the stitch that contains the last leg of your previous
ex tr3tog already, and the next 2 stitches, ch 5, slst in the next ch-4
space. (Ch 4, slst) in the same ch-4 space. Ch 5, ex tr3tog over the next
3 stitches.* Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting last slst, ch-5, and ex
tr3tog on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning slst and fasten off. 8
ex tr3tog, 8 slsts, 8 ch-5 spaces, 4 ch-4 spaces, and 4 ch-2 spaces.

Round 5:

Since Round 1, we have been forming a ‘ladder’ of chains (see photo - round numbers appear to the
right of corresponding chains, stitch marker indicates where to work in beginning loop). We will be
working up and down this ladder of ch-spaces over the next couple of rounds. Familiarize yourself
with these spaces. Also - the slsts made into the Round 3 ch-spaces should be shoved to each side
of the space in order to expose the middle part of the chain and make them easier to access.

Join color E/5 with a standing sc in any Round 3 ch-4 space – join to the left side of the space between
the slsts already in the space. *Returning to Round 4 - skip the {ch-space and slst} directly behind the
space just worked in, (5 sc) in the next ch-5 space – this is the space that runs along the side of your ex
tr3tog. FPsc around the next ex tr3tog. In the prior round, we worked one leg of each of our ex tr3tog
into the same stitch – we will be working into this stitch again, between the two legs already there, in
front of, not over your other rounds – dropping to Round 3 - dc in the dc that already contains these 2
stitches. Returning to Round 4 – (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 space between the ex tr3tog – corner made.
Dropping back to Round 3 and working in front of, not over your other rounds – dc in the dc that already
contains 2 legs of the ex tr3tog again. Returning to Round 4 – FPsc around the next ex tr3tog, (5 sc) in
the next ch-5 space. Working down the ladder of ch-spaces from prior rounds, in front of, not over your
other rounds – skip the Round 4 {slst and ch-sp}, sc in the next Round 3 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the next Round
2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the next Round 1 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the beginning loop between sets of dcs already
there. Working up the ladder of ch-spaces from prior rounds, in front of, not over your other rounds – ch
1, sc in the Round 1 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-sp.* Repeat * to * 3
more times, omitting last sc on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off, or
alternatively use an invisible join for a more seamless finish. 80 sc, 8 FPsc, 8 dc, 24 ch-1 spaces, and 4 ch-
2 corner spaces.

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Round 5 (photos continued):

Round 6:

Special Instruction – Shallow Post Stitches - For a more even look, work your back post stitches
‘shallow’ in this and future rounds, or at the very top of your stitches, just under the front and back
loops and above the 3rd loop of your stitches rather than dropping beneath the 3rd loop and
working around the post itself (see photo – hook entering stitch from back to front above the 3rd
loop and arrow is showing where hook will exit from front to back above 3rd loop to complete the
stitch. Photo from different pattern).

I highly recommend you shove or pry the stitches made into your chains apart prior to working this round
– this will expose the middle parts of your chains and make them easier to access.

IMPORTANT: Special Stitch specific to this pattern – Double Triple Double Together - dtd tog – When
working these be sure to work in front of, not over, your other round chains and between the stitches
already there. Yo, insert hook into the Round 3 ch-space, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops – 2
LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo 2 times, insert hook into the Round 2 ch-space, pull up a loop, [yo pull through 2
loops] twice – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into the Round 3 ch-space again, pull up a loop, yo pull
through 2 loops – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo and pull though all 4 loops.

Join color F/6 with a standing dc in any ch-2 corner space. (Ch 2, dc) in the same space. *Skip the first
stitch of the side, BPhdc around the next 7 stitches. Ch 1 – dropping to Round 4 – dc in the next Round 4
ch-4 space. Special dtd tog – see above. Returning to Round 4 – dc in the Round 4
ch-4 space again. Returning to Round 5 – skip all the stitches made into your ladder
in the prior round, ch 1, BPhdc around the next 7 stitches – beginning with the first sc
worked into the ch-5 space. Skip the last stitch of the
side, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 corner space.*
Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on
final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning dc, DO NOT
fasten off. 19 stitches per side and 2 ch-1 spaces

Round 7:

Special Stitch – Extended mini puff - xmp – insert hook into indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 2
LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into same indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 4 LOOP ON HOOK.
Yo, pull through 3 loops, yo pull through last 2 loops. You will use this stitch over the next couple rounds.

Special stitch – Front Post Triple 3 Together - FPtr 3tog – Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to
front around the post of the first indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 2
LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of second indicated
stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo, pull through 2 loops] twice – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo twice, insert hook
from front to back to front around post of last indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [yo, pull through 2
loops] twice – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo and draw through all 4 loops.

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Round 7 (continued):

Ch 3 – counts as 1st dc. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner space, dc in the first 3 stitches, xmp in the next
3 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches. Ch 2, skip the ch-1 sp, FPtr 3tog over the next 3 stitches – be sure to
treat your special dtd tog as one stitch - ch 2, skip the ch-1 sp, dc in the next 2 stitches, xmp in the next
3 stitches, dc in the last 3 stitches of side.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat.
Join with a slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 and fasten off. 19 stitches and 2 ch-2 spaces per side.

Round 8:

In the center of each side, you should have a ‘marquis’ shape that we capped off with a
FPtr3tog in the last round. We have been forming a ladder of stitches on each side of this
marquis over the last several rounds (see photo right – round numbers appear at the right
of each corresponding chain – there is no Round 5 space). Familiarize yourself with
these chains as we will be working in them in this round.

Additionally, we have a ladder of spaces at each of our corners. We will be

working in a couple of these spaces again in the same ladder-like fashion (see
photo left – round numbers appear to right of corresponding corner space).

Join color G/2 with a standing sc in the last stitch of a side. *Working down the ladder of your previous
corner spaces, in front of, not over, the other round chains and between the stitches already there - ch 1,
sc in the Round 6 corner sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 5 corner sp. Working up the ladder of your previous
round corner spaces, in front of, not over, the other round chains and between the stitches already there
- ch 1, sc in the Round 6 corner space again, ch 1. Returning to Round 7 – skip the Round 7 corner sp, sc
in the next 9 stitches. Working down your ladder of chains, in front of, not over the prior round chains,
on the right side of the ‘marquis’ shape – ch 2, sc in the Round 7 ch-sp – mark this stitch as we will work
into it again in a moment, ch 1, sc in the Round 6 ch-sp, ch 1, skip the Round 4 ch-sp, sc in the Round 3
ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 1 ch-sp. Working up your ladder of chains, in
front of, not over the prior round chains, on the left side of the ‘marquis shape - ch 1, sc in the Round 2
ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-sp, ch 1, skip the Round 4 ch-sp, sc in the Round 6 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the
Round 7 ch-sp. Ch 1, turn your work over. Working on the back side – BPsc around the Round 7 FPtr
3tog, slst in the Round 8 sc you placed a stitch marker in and remove marker. Ch 3, turn your work over.
Working on the front side again – slst in the Round 8 space formed by the turning ch-1. Returning to
Round 7 – ch 2, sc in the last 9 stitches of the side.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last sc on final
repeat. Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off, or alternatively use and invisible join as we will be
back posting in the next round.

It is normal to be wavy at this point. It will flatten some, but this block will likely need some blocking.

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Round 9:

In this round we will be working in the stitches worked into our Round 7 corner spaces, in the 9 scs
worked into Round 8 on each side of our center marquis shape, and into the Round 7 ch-1 spaces on each
side of the tip of this marquis shape only. We will skip all other Round 8 stitches.

Join color H/1 with a standing hdc in any Round 7 corner space. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same space.
*Skip all the stitches worked into the other round corners, BPsc around the first 9 stitches of the side.
Dropping to Round 7 and working in front of, not over, the next ch-2 space – hdc in the Round 7 ch-2
space before the ‘marquis’. Ch 2, skip all the stitches worked up and down the prior round chains and
the {slst, ch-3, and slst} that make up the tip of the ‘marquis’ –
working in front of, not over the next ch-2 space – hdc in the
Round 7 ch-2 space just after the ‘marquis.’ Returning to Round 8
– BPsc around the last 9 stitches of the side. Dropping to Round 7
– (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next Round 7 corner space.* Repeat *
to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join
with a slst to beginning hdc and DO NOT fasten off. 24 stitches
and 1 ch-2 space per side.

Round 10:

NOTE: in this round you will be making cross stitches – this involves working in front of the stitch
just made and into a stitch just skipped. You may find it is easier to access in these skipped
stitches if you insert your hook from the back to the front when working in them (see photo left –
note, photo from different pattern).

Special Stitch – Giant Puff – [Insert hook into same indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop, yo] 6
times – 12 LOOPS ON HOOK. Pull through all 12 loops, ch 1 to close. For pattern purposes, closing ch
doesn’t count toward subsequent chains.

Slst into the next hdc and corner space, ch 4 – counts as first hdc and ch-2 space. Hdc in the same space,
*hdc in the first stitch of side, [skip the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, working in front of the dc you
just made – dc in the stitch just skipped] 5 times, dc in the next stitch, ch 1. Working through the ch-2
space from Round 9 and the ch-3 space from Round 8 at the top of the ‘marquis’ together – giant puff.
Returning to Round 9 only - Ch 1, dc in the next stitch, [skip the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, working
in front of the dc you just made – dc in the stitch just skipped] 5 times. Hdc in the last stitch of the side,
(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on the
final repeat. Join with a slst to the 2nd ch of beginning ch-4 and fasten off,
or alternatively join with an invisible join as we will not work into this stitch
again and it will remain on the surface of your work. 27 stitches and 2 ch-1
spaces per side.

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Round 11:

Don’t forget to shallow post.

Join color B/4 with a standing BPsc around the 3rd stitch of any side.
*BPsc around the next 3 stitches, BPhdc around the next 3 stitches,
BPdc around the next 3 stitches. Skip the next {dc and ch-1 space}, (tr,
ch 1, tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1, tr) in the space formed by the closing chain on
the top of the next giant puff – new corner made. Skip the next {ch-1
space and dc}, BPdc around the next 3 stitches, BPhdc around the next
3 stitches, BPsc around the next 4 stitches. Ch 4, skip the next {2 hdc,
ch-2 corner sp, and the next 2 hdc}. Pulling your chain behind these
stitches, BPsc in the 3rd stitch of the next side.* Repeat * to * 3 more
times, omitting last BPsc on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning
BPsc and fasten off. 24 stitches, 2 ch-1 spaces, and 1 ch-4 space per
side, counting from the new corner space.

Round 12:

Special Stitch – 3 dc popcorn – 3dc pop – (3 dc) in indicated stitch or space. Drop loop from hook. Insert
hook from front to back through beginning dc, pick up dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. For
pattern purposes closing ch does not count toward subsequent chains.

Join color I/5 with a standing sc in any ch-4 space of a side. (Sc, ch 1,
2sc) in the same space. *Sc in the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 4
stitches, dc in the next stitch. Ch 1, skip the next 2 stitches, 3dc pop in
the next space, ch 1, skip the next tr, (3dc pop, ch 2, 3dc pop) in your
corner space, ch 1, skip the next tr, 3dc pop in the next space. Ch 1, skip
the next 2 stitches, dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 4 stitches, sc in
the next 4 stitches. (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in the next ch-4 space* Repeat * to
* 3 more times, omitting last (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) on the final repeat. Join
with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off. 24 stitches and 4 ch-1 spaces
per side.

Round 13:

Recommended – in the prior round we worked a (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) sequence into each of our ch-4 spaces.
Take a moment to mark the 2nd stitch after each of these ch-1 spaces. We will be working spike stitches
in this round that will obscure the stitches we are working over and make it difficult to see where we are
at.

Special Stitch – Spike Stitch - spike – working over the top of your prior round stitches, insert hook in
indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop. Pull loop up to same height as the current round – 2 LOOPS
ON HOOK. Yo and pull through both loops.

Join color G/3 with a standing 3dc pop in any corner space. (Ch 2, 3dc pop) in the same space. * [Ch 1,
skip the next pop, 3dc pop in the next space] twice. Ch 1, dc in the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 4
stitches, sc in the next 2 stitches. Skip the next {sc, ch-1, sc}. Working through your Round 9 corner

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Round 13 (continued):

space, over the top of and enclosing your Round 11 and 12 stitches located behind the space – (3 spike
stitch) in the Round 10 corner space. Returning to Round 12 – sc in the next 2 stitches – the first of
these should contain your stitch marker – remove marker. Hdc in the next 4 stitches, dc in the next 4
stitches. Ch 1, [3dc pop in the next space, ch 1, skip the next popcorn] twice. (3dc pop, ch 2, 3dc pop) in
the next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner
sequence on final repeat. Join with a
slst to top of beginning pop and fasten
off. 29 stitches and 6 ch-1 spaces per
side.

Round 14:

Don’t make your slst too tight as you will be working into them in the next round.

Join color A/4 with a standing tr in any corner space. (Ch 2, tr) in the same space.
*FPtr around the next pop, [dc in the next sp, FPdc around the next pop] twice.
Dc in the next space, dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 3 stitches, sc in the next
5 stitches, slst in the next 6 stitches, sc in the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 3
stitches, dc in the next stitch, dc in the next space. [FPdc around the next pop, dc
in the next sp] twice. FPtr around the last pop of side, (tr, ch 2, tr) in the next
corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final
repeat. Join with a slst to beginning tr. DO NOT fasten off! 37 stitches per side.

Round 15:

Slst into the next corner space, ch-1. (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in the same corner space. *Skip the first ‘hidden’
stitch of side, sc in each stitch across. (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in the next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more
times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off. 40
stitches per side.

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Please Remember:

This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to
share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights. You may not distribute, sell, or
share this pattern, or any parts of it. If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are
sharing it with to the original pattern link. Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect. If you
find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will
fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property. I really hope you enjoyed the pattern!

Copyright 2020, Lisa Mauser - Page 9 of 9