Rigging Manual V16

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

 Contents
1 - Introduction ........................................................................................... 1

2 - Specification .......................................................................................... 2

3 - Components............................................................................................ 3
3.1 - Customer pack.................................................................................... 3
3.2 - Rope pack........................................................................................... 4

4 - Initial Commissioning........................................................................... 5
4.1 - Stanchions and guard rails.................................................................. 6
4.2 - Adding the spinnaker pole................................................................... 9
4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker tack line........................................................... 11
4.4 - Asymmetric spinnaker launch line....................................................... 12
4.5 - Adding the hoop.................................................................................. 13
4.6.1 - Dressing the mast - Lowers............................................................. 14
4.6.2 - Dressing the mast - Spreaders........................................................ 15
4.6.3 - Dressing the mast - Forestay........................................................... 16
4.6.4 - Dressing the mast - Backstay ......................................................... 17
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards .......................................................... 18
4.7.1 - Stepping the mast ........................................................................... 23
4.7.2 - Stepping the mast with the Keel Up ................................................ 27
4.8 - Rough rig setting ................................................................................ 28
4.9 - Adding the boom ................................................................................ 32
4.10 - Vang ................................................................................................. 33
4.11 - Mainsheet ......................................................................................... 35
4.12 - Main halyard tension system ............................................................ 36
4.13 - Cunningham ..................................................................................... 37
4.14 - Jib halyard tension system ............................................................... 39
4.15 - Jib tack line ...................................................................................... 40
4.16 - Jib sheet ........................................................................................... 41
4.17 - Asymmetric spinnaker sheet ............................................................ 43
4.18 - Spinnaker bag .................................................................................. 44
4.19 - Rudder ............................................................................................. 45
4.20 - Preparing the mainsail ..................................................................... 46
4.21 - Battens ............................................................................................. 46
4.22 - Sail care ........................................................................................... 47
4.23 - Adding the Epropulsion .................................................................... 48

5 - Using the boat ....................................................................................... 57

5.1 - Lowering the keel ............................................................................... 58
5.2 - Raising the keel .................................................................................. 59
5.3 - Hoisting the mainsail .......................................................................... 60
5.4 - Outhaul ............................................................................................... 62
5.5 - Hoisting the jib .................................................................................... 63
5.6 - Motor .................................................................................................. 64
5.7 - Weed cutter ........................................................................................ 67
5.8 - Storing sail bags ................................................................................. 68
5.9 - Fenders .............................................................................................. 68
5.10 - Lifting the boat .................................................................................. 69
5.11 - Removing / Adding the keel............................................................... 70
5.12 - Bilge pump ....................................................................................... 71
5.13 - Mooring the boat .............................................................................. 71
5.14 - Antifouling ......................................................................................... 71
5.15 - Fitting Symmetric Spinnaker............................................................. 72
5.16 - Fitting the Furling Jib System............................................................ 80

6 - Knots ....................................................................................................... 84
7 - Glossary ................................................................................................. 86
 1 - Introduction

1. Introduction

Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS 21, and thank you for choosing an
RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing
in this truly excellent design. The RS 21 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic
performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum
enjoyment from your RS 21, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the
equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its safe operation and
maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you understand its
contents before using your RS 21.

This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your first
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your own
safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before assuming
command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS Dealer, or your national sailing
federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise you of a
local sailing school, or a competent instructor.

Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if
you sell the boat.

For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:

RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hampshire SO51 9DQ
Tel: +44 (0)1794 526760
Email: [email protected]

For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com

1
 2 - Specification

Designer Richards / Whitehouse / RS Sailing

Length 6.34m
Beam 2.2m
Draught 1.38m
Displacement 650kg
Hull construction Eco-friendly composite
Keel Lifting - with bulb
Rudder Removeable - composite
Mainsail area - Race 16.2m2
Jib are - Race 8.4m2
Gennaker area - Race 40m2
Mainsail area - Club 16.2m2
Jib area - Club 8.4m2
Gennaker area - Club 35m2
Spinnaker area - Club 30m2
Mast One piece carbon composite
Shrouds and froestay Stainless steel wire
Halyards - Main, jib, gennaker Dyneema / polyester
Boom Aluminium alloy
Bowsprit Carbon composite

2
3.1 - Components - Customer Pack

Part Usage Quantity

30mm Block, Single, Swivel Backstay/Kicker 2

40mm Block, Single Launch line/Kicker/Mainsheet 5

30mm Block, Single, Strap Jib Cunningham 1

30mm Block, Sing./beck. Swiv. Cunningham 1

40mm Block, Fiddle, Cam Cunningham 1

40mm Block, Fiddle Kicker 1

40mm Block, Single/becket Kicker 1

45mm Block, Wire Kicker 1

20mm Block, Single Becket Electric Drive 1

60mm Block Single Kite sheets/Mainsheet 3

40mm Block, Single Strap Mainsheet 2

40mm Block, Single, Strap Jib Clew 2

2
Shackle dia 5,Slotted,Narrow Backstay

Kicker 1
Shackle ø5x11x26, BOW ST

Jib Tack Deadend/Pole Out/Main

6mm Stopper Knob - Black Halyard/Jib Haly / Spinn Haly
5

Spinnaker Bag Tube, L=650 Spinnaker Bag Pole 1

Spinnaker Bag Tube, L=830 Spinnaker Bag Pole 1

30mm Three Singles on a Ring Backstay 1

Rudder Pin Rudder 1

Keel Strap Keel Securing Strap 1

Rubber Tapered Bung and Line Jib Cunningham Stopper 1

3
 Cut Finished Size Description Qty Type Colour Comments
Length Length (m) (mm)
(m)
4.40 4.40 5 Launch Line 1 Evo Race78 Black / Blue Melange
10.00 10.00 6 Tack Line 1 Evo Race78 Black / Red Melange
2.20 2.20 4 Jib Cunningham Purchase 1 Evo Race78 Black / White Melange
2.60 2.60 4 Jib Cunningham Control 1 Evo Race78 Black / White Melange
31.00 31.00 8 Spin Sheets 1 Braid on Braid Red / Black Melange
3.50 3.50 5 Cunningham 1 Evo Race78 Black / Blue Melange
1.10 0.90 4 Cunningham Tail 1 Rig12 Black Small Soft Eye Spliced One End
6.00 6.00 5 Vang 1 Evo Race78 Black / Pink Melange
2.90 2.50 5 Vang Purchase 1 Rig12 Black Small Soft Eye Spliced Both Ends
11.50 11.50 8 Jib Sheet 1 Braid on Braid Blue / Black Melange
16.30 15.50 8 Mainsheet 1 Braid on Braid Black / White Melange Cover Only Eye Each End (Whipped)
3.2 - Components - Rope Pack

1.00 1.00 1.5 Mainsheet Whipping 1 Rig12 Black

2.50 2.50 4 Engine Uphaul 1 Evo Race78 Grey / White Melange
0.40 0.40 1.5 Engine Block Tie 1 Compact78 Black
8.50 8.50 5 Backstat Control 1 Evo Race78 Black / Neon Yellow Melange
0.50 0.50 4 Backstay Block Tie 1 Rig12 Black Blocks Tie
6.18 5.5 - 4.7 4 Backstay Purchase 1 Rig12+ Black Soft Eye One End Adjustable Eye Other
0.25 0.25 2 Back Rest 2 Rig 12 Black
1.45 0.35 - 0.62 4 Stanchion 2 Rig 12 Black Soft Eye One End Adjustable Eye Other
1.45 0.77 - 0.50 4 Stanchion 2 Rig12 Black Soft Eye One End Adjustable Eye Other
Halyards
18 18 6 Main Halyard 1 Evo Race78 Black / White Melange
16.8 16.8 6 Jib Halyard 1 Evo Race78 Grey / White Melange
19.5 19.5 6 Spin Halyard 1 Evo Race78 Black / Neon Yellow Melange

4
 Rigging Manual

4. Initial Commissioning

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

5
 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails

a)
Locate the following items:

6 x Stanchions 4 x Guard rail pad 6 x Guard rail ropes 6 x Stanchion Pins

b)

Insert the 6 stanchions and

insert pins and secure in place
with the shockcord loop.

Note: The guard rail ties differ for the regular and race versions.

d)

Standard spec has no splice. Race spec has spliced loop.

Not the adjustable end.

6
 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails

e)
Attach the 4 long adjustable guard rail ropes onto the D-ring at each end of the guard rail
pads, leaving a D-ring free at the end of each pad.
Standard spec. Race spec.

Knot #1 Knot #6

f) Pass the other ends of the long guard rail ropes through the hole in the top of the
stanchions (in a forward direction for the front stanchions and an aft direction for the aft
stanchions). Use the 2 short ropes to attach the 2 guard rail pads together through the
centre stanchion.

g) Standard spec.

Attach the loose end of the forward guard rail rope to the eyes on the gunwale. Attach
the aft guard rail rope to the back stay shackle on the stern of the boat.

For the standard spec use knot #1.

Knot #1
Knot #1

7
 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails

h) Race spec.

Remove one screw from the deck eye.

Rotate the deck eye to allow you

to slip the loop over it.

Rotate the deck eye back into

place and replace the screw.

Pull to adjust

8
 4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole

The spinnaker pole may already be attached to your boat.

If it is already attached you can move straight on to section 4.3.

a)
Locate the spinnaker tack line, launch line and 40mm block in the packs.

Tack line Launch line 40mm block

b) Tie knot #3 approximately 250mm from one end of the tack line.

250mm

c) The front end of the pole can be identified by the small hole in the end cap (the aft
end has a larger hole).

Pass the other of the tack line in through the hole in the front end cap of the pole,
through the pole and out the hole at the aft end.

9
 4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole

d)

Pass the aft end of the pole in through the

opening at the bow of the boat (You will
need to feed the tack line in first).

e)
Continue to push the pole into the boat, making sure it passes
underneath the webbing strap (feeding the tack line through first).

f)

Shackle the 40mm block to the metal hoop on the front

of the mast step.

Continue to add the tack line as shown on the following page.

10
 4.3 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line

Knot #2
A
Knot #3

11
 4.4 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line

a) Add the launch line as shown.

A
Knot #3 B

Knot #2

12
 4.5 - Adding the Hoop

Your boat may arrive with or without the hoop attached.

If the hoop is already attached move straight on to section 4.6.

a)
There are 3 screws on each side of the centre console which hold the
hoop in place. Remove all 6 screws.

b)
Fit the hoop into place and replace the screws.

13
 4.6.1 - Dressing the Mast - Lowers

a) Remove the bottle screw from the lowers.

b) Thread the wires through the hole in the spreader bracket.

c) Replace the bottle screw.

Tighten until the wire just appears on the inside of the bottle screw.

d) Add the lower part of the bottle screw (fork toggle).

Tighten until it just shows on the inside of the bottle screw.

14
 4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders

To complete this section you will need:

• Spreaders x 2
• Shrouds x 2
• Forestay
• Backstay
• Backstay flicker and 3 x machine screws
• Main halyard
• Jib halyard
• Spinnaker halyard

a)

Fit the two shrouds to the mast.

b)

Fit the spreaders to the mast.

15
 4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders

c)
Remove the screw and the front face of the spreader tip.

Thread the shroud wire into the gap and replace the front face of the spreader tip
and the screw.

Repeat for the other shroud and spreader.

4.6.3 - Dressing the Mast - Forestay

a)

Attach the forestay to the mast with the T-terminal.

16
 4.6.4 - Dressing the Mast - Backstay

a)
Fit backstay flicker.

b)

Add the block and line to the end of the backstay flicker.
Tie ythe block as clse to the flicker as possible.

c)
Attach the backstay through the flicker block and terminate it
on the pin at the mast head fitting.

17
 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards

Note: There are mouse lines for the halyards already running through the mast.

a) Locate the following items:

Main halyard Plastic bobble

b) The main halyard is composed of two lines, a thicker red rope with a loop and
a thinner line attached to it.

mouse line

Tie end of the halyard line to the mouse line which

emerges from the mast head using knot #7.

c)
Pull on the other end of the mouse line (which emerges from the port side of the mast,
near the mast foot).

18
 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards

d) Add the bobble to the e) Once the mouse line

other end of the main halyard has been pulled fully
(the end emerging from the through the mast
top of the mast.) and the halyard line
emerges from the hole
in the mast, stop pulling
the line. Untie the
mouse line, tie knot #4.
Secure both ends of the
halyard near the mast
foot to prevent them
from being lost inside
the mast.

f) Locate the following items:

Jib halyard Plastic bobble x1

g)
Fitting the jib halyard is a similar process to the main halyard. The mouse line for the jib
halyard emerges from the front of the mast about 3/4 of the way towards the top, and
from a hole in the port side of the mast, just above the gooseneck.

mouse line

Knot #7

19
 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards

h)
Pull the mouse line through until the jib halyard emerges from the mast. Untie the
mouse line and tie knot #4. Secure both ends of the halyard near the mast foot to
prevent them from being lost inside the mast.

i)
Add a plastic bobble to the other end of the jib halyard
(the end emerging from top of the mast).

Remember to secure both ends at the bottom

of the mast once the halyard is fitted.

20
 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards

j)
Locate the following items in the rigging pack.

Spinnaker halyard Plastic bobble

k)
Fitting the spinnaker halyard is a similar process to the main and jib halyards, except
the spinnaker halyard is only composed of a single piece of rope.

mouse line

Knot #7

The mouse line for the spinnaker halyard emerges

from the front of the mast at the mast head and from a
sheave on the aft side of the mast near the foot.

l) Check the flipflop cleat just above where the spinnaker halyard emerges from the mast.
If the sheave is in the top position you will need to punch out the centre pin and replace
the sheave in the bottom position. If the sheave is already in the bottom position then you
can skip this stage.

21
 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards

m)
Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard around the sheave and through the cleat as
shown, and tie knot #3 in the tail.

Remember to secure the other end of the spinnaker halyard near the base of the mast.

n)

If you are using the club spinnaker or

symmetric spinnaker, lead the other end of
the halyard back down from the head of the
mast and pass it through the metal casting
on the front face of the mast (approximately
75mm from the mast head).

If you are using the race spinnaker move

straight on to the next step.

o)
Add a plastic bobble to the other end of the spinnaker
halyard (the end emerging from top of the mast).

Remember to secure both ends at the bottom

of the mast once the halyard is fitted.

22
 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast

BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE

NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES

REMEMBER

Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are
tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when
the mast is stepped.

A minimum of 2 people are needed to step the mast.

Note:
It is easiest to step the mast with the keel down so you can lay the mast centrally in
the boat.

If you need to step the mast with the keel up you will find instructions in section 4.7.2.

a)

Lay the dressed mast on the boat with the heel just in front of the mast step.

23
 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast

b)

Using some spare line, tie the spinnaker halyard onto

the bow stem fitting.

This will act as a temporary forestay.

c)
With the tallest person at the back, lift the
mast up and move it backwards.

The back of the mast should be lifted above the mainsheet hoop. The person at the front
of the mast should attach the heel of the mast to the mast step with the pin and ring.

24
 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast

d) Lowers

Loosely attach the lowers.

Towards bow

e)
Walk the mast upright.

Pull the spinnaker halyard tight at the

cleat to act as a temporary forestay.

25
 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast

f)

Attach the forestay.

You can now remove the spinnaker

halyard from the mast stem fitting and
attach it near the base of the mast.

g) Lowers Shrouds

Attach the shrouds.

Take up the tension but don’t make them tight yet.

It is very important that you don’t tighten

the shrouds yet.

Towards bow

26
 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast With the Keel Up

To step the mast with the keel up:

• Lay the mast in the boat slightly off to one side with the heel at the mast step.

• Attach both of the lowers and the one shroud on the same side of the boat as the mast.

• Pick the mast up above the keel.

• Attach the other shroud.

• Fit the mast foot to the mast step with the pin.

• Walk the mast upright.

27
 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting

To complete this section you will need a long tape measure and an adjustable spanner.

a)
Use the jib halyard to make sure the mast is vertical. Take it from
gunwhale to gunwhale and adjust shrouds as required.

b)
Sight up the track to see how straight the mast is.

Adjust the lowers to move the bottom section.

28
 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting

c) Add backstay.

1
2

1
Knot #1
B 3

2
3

29
 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting

d)
Attach one end of your tape measure to the main halyard and hoist it to
the top of the mast, keeping the other end in your hand.

e)

Cleat the main halyard and pull tight on tape measure. Measure the distance from
the top of the mast to the top back edge of the transom (above the rudder gudgeon).

You should be aiming to set the mast rake so that this distance is 9550mm

Measure to this point.

m 0m
955

30
 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting

f)

Using a rig tension gauge, wind down the cap

shrouds and lowers in equilibrium until they reach
the numbers shown on this table.

Wind Speed Cap Shroud Tension Lowers Tension Jib Car Tack Height Vang/Kicker
(Knots) (full turn)* (full turn)*

0-6 -2 200 -1 120 1 2.5” snug to max ease

7-11 275 155 1 2” snug to max ease

12-15 +4 400 0 155 2 1” snug +

16-20 +6 475 +1 212.5 3 1” tight

Base is set at 7-11knots. Headstay is 120 on gauge with backstay slack | *Full turns on the adjusters. Tensions using the Spinlock Rig Sense Gauge.

25
400 50

25
50

25

25
50

75
50
200

kg 50
100
g)

Once you have reached the base settings, add

the velcro shroud straps between the shroud and
lower bottle screws to prevent them from working
loose.

Tape all split pins / rings.

31
 4.9 - Adding the Boom

a)
Add the boom using the clevis pin and split pin.

Note that a there is a flat section on the head of the clevis pin which
means it can only fit one way round and cannot rotate once fitted.

32
 4.10 - Vang

a) Locate the following items in the rigging pack:

Vang Shackle 30mm block Single block

45mm block Vang control 40mm block Double block with becket
purchase

b) Locate the black vang purchase line and attach it to one of the shackle from one of the
40mm blocks using knot #6, leaving one end 140mm longer than the other.
140mm

c) d)
Pass the longer end of the black rope
Add the 45mm block to the through the block on the boom and attach
boom. it to the shackle by passing the shackle
through the spliced loop.

Attach the shackle onto the 40mm block.

33
 4.10 - Vang

e) f)
Pass the shorter end of the black rope through the Shackle the black rope, double
block which you added in step d and shackle it onto block and 30mm block onto the
the double block. mast as shown.

g)
Locate the pink vang rope in the pack.

Tie one end of it to the becket on the double block

(attached to the mast) then thread the rope through
the blocks as shown.

Tie knot #3 in the tail. 40mm block

30mm block

34
 4.11 - Mainsheet
a)
Locate the mainsheet in the rope pack.

b) Thread the mainsheet through c)

the 40mm blocks on the boom
Pass the tails through the ratchet blocks as shown.
and hoop as shown.

d) Pass one end of the mainsheet through the centre console.

You can open the hatch in the side to

help you pass the rope through.

e)
Tie the ends together as shown
using whipping twine.

Cut and burn the tails.

35
 4.12 - Main Halyard Tension System

a)
Feed the main halyard throught the 2
cleats and through the cheek block so the
halyard runs back into the boat. .

36
 4.13 - Cunningham

a) Locate the following items in the customer packs.

30mm block 40mm block with Cunningham Cunningham tail

with becket fiddle/swivel/fixed
(top) cam (bottom)

b)

Shackle the bottom block onto the

middle metal eye on the port side
of the mast step.

c)
Tie one end of the cunningham control line to the
block with becket with knot #2 then pass it through
the blocks and cleat as shown.

Tie knot #3 in the tail.

37
 4.13 - Cunningham

d)

Loop the cunningham tail onto the top block (30mm

block with becket) using the shckle.

e)
To use the downhaul, pass the downhaul tail through the cringle on the tack of
the sail and tie it off on the hole in the gooseneck fitting.

38
 4.14 - Jib Halyard Tension System

a)
Feed the jib halyard throught the 2 cleats
and through the cheek block so the
halyard runs back into the boat. .

39
 4.16 - Jib Tack Line

Knot #3

1 2

Slots into keyhole

on bow fitting. Then
insert the bung on a
string to secure
in place.

Knot #4

2
4

Knot #2

40
 4.17 - Jib Sheet
a)
Locate the 2 x 40mm jib clew blocks in the hardware pack.

b)
Dismantle the jib clew blocks as shown.

c)
Reassemble the jib clew blocks through the ring in the clew of the jib.

41
 4.17 - Jib Sheet

6
7

6
7
5
2
1

Knot #3

Knot #3
2 1

3 5

3
4

42
 4.18 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet

a)

At the mid point of the

spinnaker sheet use
knot #3 either side of
the cringle to hold the
clew in place.

C D

A G

C D

B E

43
 4.19 - Spinnaker Bag
a)

b)

c)

x4

44
 4.20 - Rudder
a)

Lift the rudder into place between the two gudgeons and insert the
rudder pin to secure it.

You may find you need to grease the pin to get it through.

b)

Insert the tiller into the rudder and add the tiller pin.

The tiller will prevent the rudder pin from coming out.

c)
Add the tiller extension.

45
 4.21 - Preparing the Mainsail

a)

Unroll your new sail. There

are faint lines on the sail to
show you where to stick the
sail numbers. 60mm
60mm

NUMBERS MUST BE 300mm

PLACED HIGHER ON
THE STARBOARD SIDE.

60mm

300mm

Minimum 6
4.22 - Battens
Minim

Batten key should be on clew of sail.

Check the inboard ends of the battens are positively

located in the inboard plastic end fitting. To tension, turn
the key clockwise until the cloth becomes just tight. If it
is over tightened you will have trouble tacking the head
of the sail in light weather. Insufficient tension and the
sail will set up too flat with wrinkles running down from
the head.

46
 4.23 - Sail Care

Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the Roll from 2nd Batten.
head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown)
so the top of the battens coincide before starting
rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away
from sunlight. Although the sail is made from
a quality high denier fabric it is best to slightly
slacken the top 2 battens’ tension for long term
storage.

When using a new sail for the first time, try to

avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new
sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail.

If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water.
DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.

A sail can be temporarily repaired using a self-adhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or Mylar.
The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a professional repair. Check for wear and tear,
especially around the batten pockets, on a regular basis.

47
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

Locate the following items:

Communication
Cables
Throttle
Motor Kill switch

Communication
Module Battery Screen

a) Kill switch installation

Three holes need to be drilled in the console,
ensuring the location pin is in the centre of
the 20mm sensor. A small amount of sealant
should be used to fix the sensor in place.

20mm 2x 5.50mm
11mm X 90°

32mm

Two No.5 x 16 pozi countersunk

head screws are used to fix the
kill switch to the underside of
the console.

Test the hight of the locator pin,

using the motor head, adjust so
there is a small gap between
the pin and the sensor.

48
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

b) Throttle installation
Make sure the proposed location
reserves enough room for operating
and will allow rotating the throttle
without hitting obstructions. This will be
approximately 85mm above the deck.

Drill holes in the console through the

fixing guide referring to the dimensions
in the drawing. 32.5mm

3x 20mm

60mm

Fix the throttle to the side of the

console using the 4 No.6 x 16
self tapping screws provided.

c) Now connect 3 cables to the back of the

throttle. First the thinner cable coming from
the motor, then the kill switch cable and
finally the communication cable that will go
to the display panel.

Note: Make sure the correct cable is

connected to the correct port on the back
of the throttle, as indicated below.

Kill
Swich

Motor Port Display

(Connect to Panel
Communications
Module)

49
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

d) Screen installation 4x 2
Fix the display panel in
the top of the console.

Drill hole in the recess

following the fixing guide.

82.7 99.2

117.5

2.9

130.6 6.6

Attach the communication

cable from the back of the
throttle to the display.

Fix the display panel using

4x No4 x 3/4” Pan Head self
tapping screws. Do not over
tighten the screws.

50
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

e) Lay the motor on the floor

beneath the boat.

f) Pass a rope down through the hole in

the console from above the deck.

g) Use this rope to pull the motor cable up through the hole.

Once you have hold of the motor cable above deck you can
use this to pull the motor shaft up into the hole.

h) Put something underneath

the boat to hold the motor in
place so you can work on the
top part of it without it falling
back down.

51
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

i) Add the handle to the Add sheave

top of the motor shaft.

Add pin

j) Bolt the two sides of the handle together,

making sure that the pin and sheave
locate properly in place.

k) Remove the forward mainsheet block and

jammer base to reveal a hole.

Pass the cables down through the hole.

Ensure the cables are properly seated

in the cutout then replace the mainsheet
block and jammer base.

52
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

l) Remove the hatch in the front of the console.

This will reveal a deck gland with a mousing

line emerging from it labelled ‘battery’.

Remove the 3 screws from the deck gland and pass

the larger power cable through the gland assembly
(see image to the right).

Pull the cable through from the front hatch.

Re-assemble the deck gland and refit the 3 screws

m) Add the motor lifting line as shown and cleat it off.

1 2

3
Knot #1

3 1 2

With the motor in the fully up position, make a

mark on the extrusion so you know how far to
pull it in when you are on the water.

You can now remove the chock which you added in step h.

53
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

n) Fitting the Communications Module

Fit the communications module through

the front hatch on the console. Attach it
to the wooden bulkhead in the console
using the M4 screws provided.

Attach the the cables from the motor

and the throttle to the 2 connectors on
the side of the module.

Note: Make sure the correct cable is

connected.

o) Bottom Plate Installation

Drill six Ø6.5mm holes in the bottom plate

according to the size shown below.

6x 6.5mm
26mm
25mm

42.50mm

Fix the hull plate to the skeg mount

with 6 x M6 x 16mm hex socket
countersunk bolts with M6 locknuts.

54
 4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

p) Install the battery base using 14 x 2”pozi pan

screws. Make sure the base is located so the
battery can locate without hitting the bulkheads.

Installing the battery, lower the battery and

the slide forward and down until you hear an
audible ”CLICK”. Check the batter is located
securely before sailing.

ENSURE BATTERY SOCKET AND

PLUG ARE KEPT DRY.
DO NOT CONNECT IF WET.
USE THE CLIP PROVIDED WHEN
NOT CONNECTED.
Once all the cables are connected, connect
the battery cable to the battery as indicated in
the image.

55
4.24 - Adding the Epropulsion Motor

Removing the battery, Lift the blue

handle and lift and slide the battery
back and away from the bracket.

USE THE CLIP PROVIDED

WHEN NOT CONNECTED.

ALWAYS REPLACE THE

CAP ON THE PLUG WHEN
NOT CONNECTED TO
THE BATTERY.

56
 Rigging Manual

5. Using the Boat

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

57
 5.1 - Lowering the Keel
a) b)
Put the keel hoist into it’s pot.

Before you lower the keel for the

first time use electrical tape to mark
a position on the keel hoist that is
level with the top of the keel. This
is a reference point to tell you when
winding the keel back up you have
reached the top.

If you keep winding once the

keel is fully raised you risk
damaging the boat.

c) d)
Shackle the strap from the Once you are in deep
keel hoist onto the keel. enough water, wind
the keel down using
the hoist.

Do not let go of
the handle!
You can now launch the boat.

e) f)
Add the velcro retaining strap and
secondary pin as shown.
Unshackle the rope from the
keel, remove the hoist and
replace the hatch.

58
 5.2 - Raising the Keel

a) b)
Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the Undo the velcro strap which is holding
hatch just to the port side of the keel). the keel down.

Shackle the rope from the keel hoist

onto the keel.

c)

Wind the keel up using the hoist.

59
 5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail

a) b)
Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the
Shackle the main halyard to mast track, just above the gooseneck.
the head of the mainsail.

c)
Hoist the mainsail by pulling on the
line which comes out of the port
side of the mast.

60
 5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail

d)

Pull on the main halyard until the sail reaches the

top of the mast, make sure the halyard is locked
into both cleats on the side of the mast.

e)
There is a pouch on the front edge of the spinnaker bag which can be used to stow the
tails of all halyards.

61
 5.4 - Outhaul

a)

Attach the tack strap around the mast

before adjusting the outhaul

NOTE: Do not attach the main sail to the

shackle on the goosneck.

b)

Attach the outhaul to the clew of the sail.

c)

Add the clew strap.

d)

The outhaul line runs through the inside of the boom and is
already attached. Pull on outhaul tension with this line then
cleat it off.

62
 5.5 - Hoisting the Jib

a) b) Hank the luff of the jib onto the forestay.

Attach the jib halyard to the
head of the jib.

c) Hoist the jib by pulling on the line which

comes out of the starboard side of
the mast, just below the level of the
gooseneck.

When the jib is almost fully hoist, a rope

loop will emerge from the hole in the
mast.

Hook the snap shackle on the block

(added in step 4.9b) onto this rope loop
and continue to hoist the jib.

63
 5.6 - Motor

1 2

Knot #1

Uncleat to lower motor or

pull in to raise motor.
3 1 2
3

Knot #3
4

This gudgeon will lock the

motor down. To release
push the blue button.

64
 5.6 - Motor

a)

Connect the battery.

b)
Uncleat the engine lifting line and lower the engine.

Only lower the engine when you are moving at less that 3 knots.

You may need to push downwards on the Epropulsion handle to get the
engine to drop.

Make sure you drop the engine fully so that the pintle on the handle
clicks into the gudgeon.

Uncleat this line

65
 5.6 - Motor

c)
Make sure the throttle is set to neutral.

Turn on the power.

d)
Add kill cord to the throttle.

If you remove the kill cord whilst the engine is running, make sure the
throttle is set to neutral before you re-attach the kill cord.

e)

To lift the motor:

• Turn power off.

• Remove kill cord.

• Press blue button.

• Pull in motor lifting line.

• Stow the tail of the lifting line and the kill cord
in the pouch on the side of the console.

66
 5.7 - Weed Cutter

As an optional extra, a built in weed cutter is available which runs through the
front of the keel, with a blade that is hidden inside the keel bulb .

If you have weed stuck on your keel, pull the rod which emerges from the top of
the keel and the blade will run up and down the keel until the weed is removed.

67
 5.8 - Storing Sail Bags

Inside the forward hatch there is a loop of rope with a hook on it, which runs around
a block on the aft bulkhead.

To stow your sail bags, hook them onto this rope and pull on the other end of the
rope. This will pull the sail bag aft.

5.9 - Fenders

There are eyes on the stanchion bases for tying on the fenders.

68
 5.10 - Lifting the boat

a)
There is a lifting eye just aft of the keel which can be used for a single
point lift if the keel is attached to the boat.

Do not use the

padeyes to lift
the boat

b)
If the boat is to be lifted without the keel attached:

• Fit the lifting strop to the same eye as you would if the keel was fitted.

• Run 2 lines from the lifting strop to the backstay eyes on the transom.

69
 5.11 - Removing / Adding the Keel

a)
To remove the keel with the boat on a crane, first drop the boat down so that
the chocks at the top of the keel are accessible.

b)

Remove the two chocks from the keel

using a 2 x 13mm spanners.

If the weed cutter is fitted, remove the

rope bobble.

c)
Lift the boat off the keel.

It is very important that you lift the boat evenly.

d)
To add the keel, reverse this process.

70
 5.12 - Bilge Pump

The bilge pump is located on the starboard

cockpit side (just forward of the console).

The water exits from a

hole behind the rope bag.

5.13 - Mooring the boat

When mooring the boat, tie the bow line to the jib tack plate.

5.14 - Antifouling

There are faint marks along the waterline approximately every metre. When antifouling
you can use these marks to line up the masking tape.

71
5.15 - Fitting Symmetric Spinnaker - Components

Part Quantity
30mm block with swivel 2

38mm Cleat 2
38mm Line guard 2
38mm Fairlead 2

40mm block with swivel 2

40mm block with strap 2

Spinnaker Pole Uphaul - 11m 2

Spinnaker Pole Downhaul - 4.2m 2

Twinning Line - 2.4m 2

Spinnaker Sheets - 16m 2

Spinnaker pole storage kit 1

Spinnaker pole 1

72
 Symmetric Spinnaker Pole Boom Storage

Fit the aft part first by loosening the fixing screw/plates.Slide the top fixing into
the slot ontop of the inboard end of the boom. Slide the part down the boom until
the lower fixing it against the mainsheet fitting. Now rotate the fixing plate on the
under side and slot it into the recess in the boom. As you tighten the fixing it will
rotate to clamp the part in place. Then tighten the fixing on the top of the boom.

Nest fit the front fitting, loosen the fixing scres/plates enough to slide them into
the slot in the top side of the boom. Slide the fitting along until it is 100mm from
the inboard end of the boom. Tighten the fixings to hold the fitting in place.

1950mm

BOW STERN

1
TOP

100mm

BOW STERN

2
TOP

SIDE

73
 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard

BEFORE LOWERING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE

NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES

REMEMBER

Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are
tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when
the mast is lowered.

A minimum of 2 people are needed to step the mast.

Note:
It is easiest to lower the mast with the keel down so you can lay the mast centrally in
the boat.

a)

Using some spare line, tie the spinnaker halyard onto

the bow stem fitting.

This will act as a temporary forestay.

74
 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard

b) Shrouds

Detach the shrouds.

Towards bow

c) Lowers

Supporting the mast.

Detach the lowers.

Towards bow

75
 Fitting the Spinnaker Halyard

d)
Lower the mast carefully

Using the spinnaker halyard at the cleat to

control the decent of the mast..

e)

When using the symmetric spinnaker,

lead the end of the halyard down from the
head of the mast and pass it through the
metal casting on the front face of the mast
(approximately 75mm from the mast head).

Now raise the mast as

described in the Rigging Guide

76
Symmetric Spinnaker Uphaul

Knot #2

77
 Symmetric Spinnaker Downhaul

78
 Symmetric Spinnaker Sheets

Knot #1

Knot #3 A
A

Knot #1

Knot #3
B

79
 Fitting the Furling Jib System

What’s included in the kit

Sail

Top
Forestay
to Swivel

Top Swivel

Halyard Swivel
Furling Line

Tack Fitting
Forestay

Furling Drum

80
 Furling Jib

a)
Before stepping the mast, attached the
furling forestay t-terminal to the mast.

Thread the jib halyard though the fairlead

that is just below the sheave.

b)
Stand the mast up and attach the drum to the
tack plate. Ensure the split pin is opened up to
prevent the pin from moving.

81
 Furling Jib

c)
Thread the furling line through the triple
fairlead on the foredeck and then through
the existing jib cunningham eye and cleat
on the starboard side.

82
 Furling Jib

d)
Hoisting the Jib

Tie the jib halyard to the top of the halyard

swivel. Attached the head of the jib to the
bottom of the halyard swivel.

e)
Attach the tack to the tack fitting on
top of the furler drum. Hoist the jib.

f)
Furling the Jib

To furl the jib, pull the furling line and secure the line in the
cleat. Tidy the line away into the cockpit bag..

83
 6 - Knots

Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3

Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6

Knot #1 - Knot on knot

a) b)

Knot #2 - Bowline
a) b) c)

d) e)

84
 6 - Knots
Knot #3 - Figure of eight

a) b) c)

Knot #4 - Overhand knot

a) b)

Knot #5 - Double sheet bend

Knot #6 - Cow hitch

85
 7 - Glossary

A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow

B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole

86
 7 - Glossary

Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction

C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs

D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained

87
 7 - Glossary

Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface

E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently

F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay

G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.

H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail

88
 7 - Glossary

‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat

I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’

J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib

K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude

L
Launching To leave the slipway

89
 7 - Glossary

Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail

M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place

90
 7 - Glossary

Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast

Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails

N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change

O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached

P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards

R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat

91
 7 - Glossary

Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds

Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing

S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line

92
 7 - Glossary

Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat

T
Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull

93
 7 - Glossary

U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing

W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing

94