FREE

PATTERN

TOKYO VEST
designed by Doris Chan

SIZES X-Small (Small, Medium,

Medium/Large, Large, Large/XL, XL)

MATERIALS
• 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Tahki Yarns
COTTON CLASSIC LITE 100%
mercerized cotton; (1.75 oz/
50g; 146 yd/ 135m) in color #4202
almond
• F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook
• I-9 (5.5mm) Tunisian crochet hook,
9” or 14” long
OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• Split ring or safety pin markers
• Yarn needle

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44)”/81.5
(86.5, 91.5, 96.5, 101.5, 106.5, 112) cm
Length 23 (23, 23½, 23½, 24, 24½,
25)”/58.5 (58.5, 59.5, 59.5, 61, 62,
63.5) cm
119.5, 122, 124.5) cm long as crocheted. The fabric
GAUGES will stretch and adjust when seamed and blocked.
With F-5 hook, in Fsc or sc, 18 sts = 4”/10cm; in TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGES
FP/BPDC ribbing, 16 sts = 4”/10cm
With I-9 (5.5mm) Tunisian hook, in Tunisian mesh SPECIAL TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS
stitch, 9 mesh = 4”/10cm, 8 sets rows (forward, Foundation single crochet (Fsc): Start with a slip
return) = 4”/10cm knot, ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, draw up
Each rectangle is 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½, 11, a lp, yo and draw through one lp (the “chain”), yo
11½)”/21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) wide, 45 and draw through 2 lps (the “sc”). The following st
(45, 46, 46, 47, 48, 49)”/114.5 (114.5, 117, 117, is worked under the forward 2 lps of the stem of the

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previous st (into the “chain”). Insert hook into the face Row 1 Return [Yo, draw through one lp on hook, yo,
of the “chain” and under the nub at the back of the draw through 2 lps on hook] 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21)
“chain”, draw up a lp, yo and draw through one lp (the times, end with yo, draw through last 2 lps.
“chain”), yo and draw through 2 lps (the “sc”). Repeat Rows 2-88 (88, 90, 90, 92, 94, 96): Work Tunisian
for the length of foundation. Mesh Pattern (Forward Pass, Return Pass) for 87
BPDC (back post double crochet) Yo, insert hook (87, 89, 89, 91, 93, 95) times.
from back to front then to back, going around the dc Place last lp on regular crochet hook, make a finishing
post, draw up a lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on row of sc working into all of the bars and back nubs of
hook) twice. Skip st behind BPDC. each ch of the last Tunisian Return row as follows:
FPDC (front post double crochet) Yo, insert hook Last Row (RS) Ch 1, insert hook under first vertical bar
from front to back then to front, going around the tog with the strand directly behind the bar, sc, [insert
dc post, draw up a lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on hook under next vertical bar tog with the strand directly
hook) twice. Skip st behind FPDC.
behind the bar, work a sc, insert hook under one strand
Beg-hdc: For a neater edge in FP/BPDC ribbing, use
(the nub) at the back of next ch, work a sc] 14 (15, 16,
this technique to begin each row with an actual hdc.
17, 18, 19, 20] times, insert hook under next vertical
Ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo and draw
bar tog with the strand directly behind the bar, sc, sc in
up a lp (2 lps on hook), insert hook in first hdc, yo and
draw up a lp (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through all 2nd ch of edge stitch – 31 (33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) sc.
3 lps on hook.
Tunisian Mesh Stitch: A row of Tunisian crochet has First Side Ribbing
two steps; a forward pass moving from right to left, RS still facing, rotate and work ribbing across one long
where stitches are picked up across the work and side of rectangle, adding or omitting stitches if you
held on the hook, and a return pass moving from left have altered the length of the rectangles.
to right, where stitches are worked off the hook. Right Row 1 (RS) Beg-hdc in first sc row edge, [hdc in mesh
side of work always faces. sp of next Tunisian Forward row, FPDC around ch of
Mesh Pat Forward Pass: Lp rem on hook at the end next Tunisian Return row] across, end with hdc in mesh
of previous row becomes the first lp of the forward sp of last Tunisian Forward row, hdc in Fsc row edge,
pass. Ch 1 for the edge stitch, skip the first vertical turn – 177 (177, 181, 181, 185, 189, 193) sts.
bar, [insert hook in the next vertical bar tog with the Row 2 (WS) Beg-hdc in first hdc, [FPDC in next hdc,
strand directly behind the bar (this is the back nub BPDC in next dc] across to last 2 hdc, end with FPDC
of the chain stitch made in the previous return pass, in next hdc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
this nub is sometimes called the camel hump), yo and Row 3 Beg-hdc in first hdc, [BPDC in next st, FPDC in
draw up a lp through those two strands, ch 1] across, next st] across to last 2 sts, end with BPDC in next st,
at end, insert hook into the second chain of the edge hdc in last hdc, fasten off, leaving about a yard long tail
stitch, under two strands, yo and draw up a lp, ch 1. for seaming.
Mesh Pat Return Pass: Yo and draw through one
lp on hook for the edge stitch, [yo and draw through Second Side Ribbing
two lps on hook, yo and draw through one lp on hook] RS facing, make ribbing across other long side of
across, until 3 lps rem on hook, [yo and draw through rectangle. Join yarn with slip st in Fsc row edge, repeat
two lps] twice.
First Side Rows 1-3, fasten off, leaving about a yard
long tail for seaming.
NOTE: Vest is composed of two long rectangles which
Make second rectangle in same way.
are assembled into the cross-over shape.

VEST Assembly
Rectangle (make 2) NOTE: Of the four long ending tails, only three will be
With regular crochet hook, loosely Fsc 31 (33, 35, 37, used for seaming, but it is better to have them all intact
39, 41, 43), flip foundation over so sc edge is on top. as you begin.
Switch to Tunisian hook. The two rectangles will be seamed tog, side by side,
Row 1 Forward Begin with lp on hook, ch 1, skip first partway up the center back, leaving a few inches open
sc, [insert hook in next sc, yo and pull up a lp, ch 1, to form the back V-neck. Then each rectangle is folded
skip next sc] 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21) times, except at the shoulder to form RH and LH fronts.
at end do not skip sc, end with insert hook in last sc, yo The fronts are crossed under the bust and seamed at
and pull up a lp, ch 1 – 17 (18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) sts. the sides.

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Center Back Seam Now cross the two fronts like an X, making sure that
With RS facing up, lay the rectangles side by side, with the Right Front is the uppermost layer and crosses
the Fsc of both short edges at the bottom, matching to the outside of the LH front. Eventually, you will be
stitches of the long edges of ribbing. Thread the ending matching markers A, B and F on right side; C, D and E
tail there at the bottom of the RH rectangle on a yarn on left side.
needle. Keep your seaming stitches even and relaxed
so the seam does not pucker. Sew up the center back Right Side Seam
RS of piece still facing, go to the bottom of the right
by: inserting needle from front to back under the top lps
side. Thread the ending tail there (coming from the
of the first st of the LH rectangle, inserting needle from
lower front corner) on a yarn needle. Matching stitches
front to back under the top lps of the first st of the RH up to marker A of Right Front and Right Back, sew
rectangle, [insert needle from front to back under the seam in the same way as the center back seam for 25
top lps of the next st on the left, insert needle under the stitches up the side.
top lps of the next st on the right] 70 times, or for length From marker A to B, you will sew into two layers of
desired. Fasten off. front for 5 stitches, matching them to 5 stitches of back
from marker A to B by: insert needle from front to back
Side Seams into marker A stitch of back, insert needle from front
Flip the vest over so WS of rectangles are now facing. to back into marker A stitches of fronts through both
Fold the two free ends of the rectangle straight down thicknesses. Sew next 4 stitches in the same way
to the front, roughly in half. The shoulders will not end through marker B stitches.
up at the precise middle of the rectangles, and will not Now working into one layer only of the front, seam
be folded straight across the width but at a slight angle, up the next 25 stitches to the back through marker F,
so do not worry about folding exactly. Don’t cross the fasten off.
fronts yet. The most critical step is marking the long
Left Side Seam
edges for the places that will be seamed.
RS of piece still facing, go to the bottom of the left
At the inner edge of Left Front (center of the body),
side. Thread the ending tail there (coming from the
starting at the bottom, skip the first 25 stitches of
lower back corner) onto yarn needle. Seam in the
ribbing (side of hip), mark the next stitch, A. Skip the same way as other side, except for the order at marker
next 3 sts (mid waist), mark the next stitch, B. At the C, sew into marker C stitches of fronts through both
inner edge of Right Front (center of the body), starting thicknesses, then into marker C stitch of back.
at the bottom, skip the first 25 stitches of ribbing (side NOTE: The five stitches between markers A and B (C
of hip), mark the next stitch, C. Skip the next 3 and D) create the narrowest point at mid-waist. You can
sts (mid waist), mark the next stitch, D. make slight adjustments to the waist. Emphasize this
At the outer edge of Left Front (side of the body), narrow section by sewing through two thicknesses of the
starting at the bottom, skip the first 40 sts, mark the fronts for more stitches above and/or below the markers.
next stitch, C. Skip the next 3 stitches, mark the next Weave ends. Block vest.
stitch, D. Skip the next 24 stitches (side of bust), mark
the next stitch, E (underarm). At the outer edge of ABBREVIATIONS
beg begin(ning)
Right Front (side of the body), starting at the bottom,
ch chain
skip the first 40 sts, mark the next stitch, A. Skip the dc double crochet
next 3 stitches, mark the next stitch, B. Skip the next hdc half double crochet
24 stitches (side of bust), mark the next stitch, F LH left-hand
(underarm). lp(s) loop(s)
At the outer edge of Left Back, starting at the bottom, rem remain(ing)
RH right-hand
skip the first 25 stitches, mark the next stitch, C. Skip
RS right side
the next 3 sts, mark the next stitch, D. Skip the next sc single crochet
24 stitches, mark the next stitch, E. At the outer edge st(s) stitch(es)
of Right Back, starting at the bottom, skip the first 25 tog together
stitches, mark the next stitch, A. Skip the next 3 sts, WS wrong side
mark the next stitch, B. Skip the next 24 stitches, mark yo yarn over
the next stitch, F.
SCHEMATICS ON NEXT PAGE

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 6 1/2”

10”
C A

2”
D B
A C

2”
B D

6 1/2”
RIGHT LEFT

44 (44, 45, 45, 46, 47, 48)”

FRONT FRONT
F E

FOLD FOLD

F E

6 1/2”
RIGHT LEFT
BACK BACK
BACK SEAM
17”

B D

2”
A C

6 1/2”
8 1/2 (9, 9 1/2, 10, 8 1/2 (9, 9 1/2, 10,
10 1/2, 11, 11 1/2)” 10 1/2, 11, 11 1/2)”

6 (6, 6 1/2, 6 1/2,

7, 7 1/2, 8) ”
8 1/2 (9, 9 1/2, 10,
10 1/2, 11, 11 1/2) ”
6 (6, 6 1/2, 6 1/2,

2” 21 (21, 21 1/2, 21 1/2, 22, 22 1/2, 23)”

7, 7 1/2, 8)”

RIGHT LEFT
FRONT FRONT
F E

B D
14”

A C

16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22)”

13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19)”

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