Version 1

Skald - Pullover

A skald is a Nordic writer, poet, and, story-teller. The skalds often worked for kings and the nobility by singing histories about the exploits of
earlier times. The Skald pullover is worked in the round, from the bottom up. The body and sleeves are each knitted separately up to the
armholes. Then, all the pieces are arranged on one circular needle and the yoke is shaped in the round with colorwork patterning and
decreases. Finally, the back neck is raised before the neckband is knitted.

YARN Svensk Ull (Swedish Wool) (100% Swedish wool, 197 yd/180 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpe (100% wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g)
Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% polyamide, 165 yd/151 m / 100 g)
Ístex Léttlopi (100% Icelandic wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g)
GAUGE
Approx. 21 sts x 26 rnds in stockinette and lice on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Approx. 21 sts x 25 rnds in colorwork pattern on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
GARMENT’S CHEST Approx. 36 (39¾, 42¾, 45¾, 48¾, 52½, 55½, 58½) in / 91.5 (101, 108.5, 116, 124, 133.5, 141, 148.5) cm
GARMENT’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 25¼ (26, 26½, 27¼, 27½, 27½, 28½, 28½) in / 64 (66, 67, 69.5, 70, 70, 72.5, 72.5) cm
GARMENT’S SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 19 (19¼, 19¾, 20, 20, 20, 20½, 21) in / 48 (49, 50, 51, 51, 51, 52, 53) cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS
Color 1: Approx. 430 (460, 500, 540, 570, 620, 670, 710) g (color 59002, Gotland Gray)
Color 2: Approx. 50 (60, 60, 60, 70, 70, 80, 80) g (color 59014, Midsummer Green)
Color 3: Approx. 30 (30, 30, 40, 40, 40, 40, 50) g (color 59013, Northern Lights)
Color 4: Approx. 70 (80, 80, 90, 90, 100, 110, 110) g (color 59008, Pine Tree Green)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 4 and 6 / 3.5 and 4 mm: 24 and 32-40 in / 60 and 80-100 cm circulars + sets of 5 dpn + 16 in / 40 cm circular in larger size
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together = right-leaning decrease.
German Short Rows: Double st (DS): The double stitch or German short rows is a turning method that does not leave holes at each turn.
Work to st where work will be turned. Sl 1 purlwise wyf, firmly pull yarn backwards over right needle so you flip st and have 2 stitch legs or a
double stitch (DS) on the needle; work rem sts on needle.
After working the specified number of short rows, you will join the double sts one at a time. Work to 1st DS, knit/purl it, catching both legs of
DS to make 1 st.
It will help you keep track of the double sts if you place a marker at each so you can
count them and minimize the danger of missing one as you continue knitting.
For more help, see the video on Järbo’s youtube page.
MC (Main Color): Color 1 is the main or background color throughout the garment except for the two-color ribbing (see explanation below).
Stockinette in the round: Knit on every round.
Stockinette back and forth: Knit on RS and purl on WS.
Pattern: Work pattern in stockinette following chart.
Reading Chart: Charts A and C-1/C-2 are pattern panels with repeats worked only once in length. Chart B is an all-over pattern repeated to
measurements given in instructions. Begin at stitch 1 and work repeat all around.
Two-color Ribbing, in the Round: The stitch count should be a multiple of 3. Work *K2 with color 2, p1 with color 1*; rep * to * around.
Repeat this round to given measurements for ribbing. For this ribbing, color 2 is the main/dominant (MC) color and color 1 is the
contrast/pattern color (CC).

BODY
With color 1 and smaller size circular (32 or 40 in / 80 or 100 cm), CO 192 (210, 228, 243, 258, 279, 294, 312) sts. Join, being careful not to twist
cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd.

Edging, Lower Edge of Body: Work in the round with a narrow rolled edging: Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd knit 1 rnd. Work two-color ribbing (see
above in Stitches and Techniques) with colors 1 and 2 and smaller size circular. End edging with: Knit 2 rnds with color 2.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Rest of Body: Change to larger size circular (32 or 40 in / 80 or 100 cm). Knit 2 rnds with color 1 and, on second rnd, adjust stitch count by
increasing 0 (2, 0, 1, 2, 1, 2, 0) sts evenly spaced around = 192 (212, 228, 244, 260, 280, 296, 312) sts.
Pm on first st and on st 97 (107, 115, 123, 131, 141, 149, 157) = side sts. There are 96 (106, 114, 122, 130, 140, 148, 156) sts each for front and
back.

Work following chart A, working repeat around. Cut colors 2 and 3.

After completing pattern panel on chart A, attach color 4 and work lice pattern following chart B. Make sure you follow instructions for your
chosen size.

Sizes XS-M: Work lice pattern (chart B) until body measures 15½ (16, 16, -, -, -, -, -) in / 39 (40.5, 40.5, -, -, -, -, -) cm. End lice with 2 single-color
rnds (chart row 2 or 6). For these 3 sizes, pattern panel A is worked at top of body (and later on top of sleeves). Work in pattern following
chart A. Sizes S and M end here, but, for size XS, knit 2 more single-color rnds with color 1. See section At the same time as on last rnd .

Size L: Work lice pattern (chart B) until body measures - (-, -, 17¾ -, -, -, -) in / - (-, -, 45, -, -, -, -) cm. End lice with 2 single-color rnds (chart row
2 or 6). See section At the same time as on last rnd .

Sizes XL-4XL: Work lice pattern (chart B) until body measures - (-, -, -, 17¾, 17¾, 18, 18) in / - (-, -, -, 45, 45, 46, 46) cm. End lice with 1 rnd lice
(chart row 3 or 7). See section At the same time as on last rnd .

At the same time as on last rnd (all sizes): Place 15 (15, 15, 17, 15, 19, 25, 25) sts at each side on a holder for underarms as follows: Place the
first 8 (8, 8, 9, 8, 10, 13, 13) sts and last 7 (7, 7, 8, 7, 9, 12, 12) sts on holders and, on other side, place 7 (7, 7, 8, 7, 9, 12, 12) sts on each side of
side marker + side st on a holder. Now there are 81 (91, 99, 105, 115, 121, 123, 131) sts each for front and back.

Set body aside while you knit sleeves.

SLEEVES
With color 1 and smaller size dpn, CO 48 (48, 51, 51, 54, 57, 60, 60) sts. Divide sts onto dpn and join.

Edging, Lower Edge of Sleeve: Work in the round with a narrow rolled edging: Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd knit 1 rnd. Work two-color ribbing (see
above in Stitches and Techniques) with colors 1 and 2 and smaller size dpn. End edging with: Knit 2 rnds with color 2.

Rest of Sleeve: Change to larger size dpn. Knit 2 rnds with color 1 and, on second rnd, adjust stitch count by increasing 2 (2, 1, 1, 0, 1, 2, 2) sts
evenly spaced around = 50 (50, 52, 52, 54, 58, 62, 62) sts. Pm on last st = marked st for center of underarm.
Work following chart A, working repeat around. Cut colors 2 and 3.

At the same time: After working ¾ in / 2 cm, increase at center of underarm. Continue in pattern at same time as working increase rnd (see
below). Rep increase rnd every 1 (1, 1, ¾, ¾, ¾, ¾, ⅝) in / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1.5) cm a total of 14 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24) times = 78 (80,
84, 88, 92, 100, 106, 110) sts. Work new sts into pattern.

Increase Rnd: M1, knit to marked st, M1, k1.

After completing pattern panel on chart A, cut colors 2 and 3 and attach color 4. Work lice pattern following chart B. The lice pattern does
not have to be centered, but, if you want it to be, work as follows: count to determine the center st on top of sleeve, decide if you want to
have either chart st 2 or 4 as the center st and count back to determine first st on chart for beginning of rnd.

Don’t forget to continue the increase rnds. Change to larger size short circular when sts fit around. After completing increases, continue
without further increasing until sleeve measures 17½ (18¼, 19¼, 20, 20, 20, 20½, 21) in / 44.5 (46, 44, 51, 51, 51, 52, 53) cm. End sleeve on
same rnd as on body, sleeve should now measure 19 (19¼, 19¾, 20, 20, 20, 20½, 21) in / 48 (49, 50, 51, 51, 51, 52, 53) cm.

Place 15 (15, 15, 17, 15, 19, 25, 25) sts centered on underarm on a holder = rnd’s first 7 (7, 7, 8, 7, 9, 12, 12) sts and last 8 (8, 8, 9, 8, 10, 13, 13)
sts = 63 (65, 69, 71, 77, 81, 81, 85) sts rem. Cut yarn but leave an end of color 1 long enough to use for seaming underarm later on (about 9¾-
13¾ in / 25-35 cm).

Set first sleeve aside while you knit second sleeve the same way.

JOIN SLEEVES AND BODY

Begin by marking center front and center back on body: mark st 41 (46, 50, 53, 58, 61, 62, 66) on both front and back. The marker at center
back is new beginning of rnd.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Use larger size circular, the longest to begin and then shorter one as st count decreases.

Move sts so you can begin at center back = the rnd begins and ends here. Arrange pieces on circular as follows: ½ back [= 41 (46, 50, 53, 58,
61, 62, 66) sts], left sleeve [= 63 (65, 69, 71, 77, 81, 81, 85) sts], front [= 81 (91, 99, 105, 115, 121, 123, 131) sts], right sleeve [= 63 (65, 69, 71, 77,
81, 81, 85) sts], other half of back [= 40 (45, 49, 52, 57, 60, 61, 65) sts].

In theory, you can arrange the pieces as you work the first round, but, we’ve divided this into two steps so you won’t have too much to
worry about at once. If you want, you can knit the first rnd (next section) at the same time as arranging pieces on circular. There are now 288
(312, 336, 352, 384, 404, 408, 432) sts total.

YOKE
NOTE Make sure you follow the correct chart for the larger panels (X-panel). Chart C-1 is for sizes XS-S and L-2XL. Chart C-2 is for sizes M and
3XL-4XL.

The first rnd should be worked so that all sizes end up at the same level in the pattern, so there will be the same beginning point for all the
sizes as the yoke is worked. Don’t forget that the rnd begins at center back. Follow the instructions below for your chosen size.

XS: Go to the section “All sizes continue here to first decrease rnd.”
S-M: Knit 2 rnds with color 1.
L: Work following chart A and decrease 4 sts on first rnd: Decrease 1 st at each intersection of sleeve and body = 348 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds with
color 1.
XL: Knit 2 rnds with color 1. Work following chart A. Knit 2 rnds with color 1.
2XL: Knit 2 rnds with color 1, decreasing 8 sts evenly spaced on last rnd = 396 sts rem. Work following chart A. Knit 2 rnds with color 1.
3XL-4XL: Knit 2 rnds with color 1. Work following chart A. Knit 2 rnds with color 1.

All sizes continue here to first decrease rnd: there should be 288 (312, 336, 348, 384, 396, 408, 432) sts total. Work chart C-1 (C-1, C-2, C-1, C-
1, C-1, C-2, C-2). Knit 2 rnds with color 1. Work following chart A. Knit 1 rnd with color 1 following pattern panel. The next rnd is the first
decrease rnd which is knitted with color 1 at the same time as decreasing 36 (36, 48, 72, 72, 72, 72, 84) sts as follows:

First Decrease Rnd

XS: K3, (k2tog, k6) 35 times, k2tog, k3.
S: K3, (k2tog, k7) 12 times, (k2tog, k6) 11 times, (k2tog, k7) 12 times, k2tog, k3.
M: K3, (k2tog, k5) 47 times, k2tog, k2.
L: K1, (k2tog, k3) 30 times, (k2tog, k2) 11 times, (k2tog, k3) 30 times, k2tog, k1.
XL: K2, (k2tog, k4) 12 times, (k2tog, k3) 47 times, (k2tog, k4) 12 times, k2tog, k1.
2XL: K2, (k2tog, k4) 18 times, (k2tog, k3) 35 times, (k2tog, k4) 18 times, k2tog, k1.
3XL: K2, (k2tog, k4) 24 times, (k2tog, k3) 23 times, (k2tog, k4) 24 times, k2tog, k1.
4XL: K2, (k2tog, k4) 6 times, (k2tog, k3) 71 times, (k2tog, k4) 6 times, k2tog, k1.
All sizes, continue as follows: There are now 252 (276, 288, 276, 312, 324, 336, 348) sts.
Work chart C-1 (C-1, C-2, C-1, C-1, C-1, C-2, C-2). Knit 1 rnd with color 1 after pattern panel. The next rnd is the second decrease rnd which is
knitted with color 1 at the same time as 36 (48, 48, 24, 44, 40, 48, 50) sts are decreased as explained below.

Second Decrease Rnd

XS: K3, (k2tog, k5) 35 times, k2tog, k2.
S: K2, (k2tog, k4) 18 times, (k2tog, k3) 11 times, (k2tog, k4) 18 times, k2tog, k1.
M: K2, (k2tog, k4) 47 times, k2tog, k2.
L: K5, (k2tog, k10) 6 times, (k2tog, k9) 11 times, (k2tog, k10) 6 times, k2tog, k4.
XL: K3, (k2tog, k6) 2 times, (k2tog, k5) 39 times, (k2tog, k6) 2 times, k2tog, k2.
2XL: K3, (k2tog, k7) 2 times, (k2tog, k6) 35 times, (k2tog, k7) 2 times, k2tog, k3.
3XL: K3, (k2tog, k5) 47 times, k2tog, k2.
4XL: K2, (k2tog, k5) 24 times, (k2tog, k4) 1 time, (k2tog, k5) 24 times, k2tog, k2.
All sizes, continue as follows: There are now 216 (228, 240, 252, 268, 284, 288, 298) sts.
Work chart A. Knit 1 rnd with color 1 after pattern panel. The next rnd is the third decrease rnd which is knitted with color 1 at the same
time as 72 (72, 72, 84, 88, 92, 96, 94) sts are decreased as explained below

Third Decrease Rnd

XS: K1, (k2tog, 1) 71 times, k2tog.
S: K1, (k2tog, k2) 6 times, (k2tog, k1) 59 times, (k2tog, k2) 6 times, k2tog.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
M: K1, (k2tog, k2) 12 times, (k2tog, k1) 47 times, (k2tog, k2) 12 times k2tog.
L: K1, (k2tog, k1) 83 times, k2tog.
XL: K1, (k2tog, k2) 2 times, (k2tog, k1) 83 times, (k2tog, k2) 2 times, k2tog.
2XL: K1, (k2tog, k2) 4 times, (k2tog, k1) 83 times, (k2tog, k2) 4 times, k2tog.
3XL: K1, (k2tog, k1) 95 times, k2tog.
4XL: K1, (k2tog, k2) 8 times, (k2tog, k1) 77 times, (k2tog, k2) 8 times, k2tog.
All sizes, continue as follows: There are now 144 (156, 168, 168, 180, 192, 192, 204) sts.
Work chart C-1 (C-1, C-2, C-1, C-1, C-1, C-2, C-2). Knit 1 rnd with color 1 after pattern panel. The next rnd is the fourth decrease rnd which is
knitted with color 1 at the same time as 24 (28, 34, 32, 40, 42, 40, 44) sts are decreased as explained below.

Fourth Decrease Rnd

XS: K2, (k2tog, k4) 23 times, k2tog, k2.
S: K2, (k2tog, k4) 8 times, (k2tog, k3) 11 times, (k2tog, k4) 8 times, k2tog, k1.
M: K1, (k2tog, k3) 16 times, (k2tog, k2) 1 time, (k2tog, k3) 16 times, k2tog, k1.
L: K2, (k2tog, k4) 4 times, (k2tog, k3) 23 times, (k2tog, k4) 4 times, k2tog, k1.
XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, (k2tog, k2) 19 times, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, k2tog, k1.
2XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, (k2tog, k2) 17 times, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, k2tog, k1.
3XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 16 times, (k2tog, k2) 7 times, (k2tog, k3) 16 times, k2tog, k1.
4XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 14 times, (k2tog, k2) 15 times, (k2tog, k3) 14 times, k2tog, k1.
All sizes: There are now 120 (128, 134, 136, 140, 150, 152, 160) sts. Work chart A. Colors 3 and 4 are no longer used so you can cut those
yarns.

Raising back neck: Before the last decrease rnd, the neck and shoulders are raised. With color 1, k34 (36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 44); turn, DS (see
Stitches and Techniques); purl back until 34 (36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 44) sts before beginning of rnd; turn, DS.
Continue as follows: *Knit until 3 sts before previous turn; turn, DS, purl back until 3 sts before previous turn. Turn, DS*; rep * to * once
more. Knit to beginning of rnd = center back.

The next rnd is the fifth and last decrease rnd which is knitted with color 1 at the same time as 21 (26, 32, 31, 35, 36, 32, 34) sts are
decreased as explained below.
NOTE Be careful when you come to the double sts (DS) – work them together as ONE st.

Fifth Decrease Rnd

XS: K2, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, (k2tog, k4) 15 times, (k2tog, k3) 2 times, k2tog, k1.
S: K1, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, (k2tog, k2) 1 time, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, k2tog, k1.
M: K1, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, (k2tog, k2) 25 times, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, k2tog, k1.
L: K1, (k2tog, k3) 6 times, (k2tog, k2) 18 times, (k2tog, k3) 6 times, k2tog, k1.
XL: K1, (k2tog, k2) 34 times, k2tog, k1.
2XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, (k2tog, k2) 29 times, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, k2tog, k1.
3XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, (k2tog, k2) 7 times, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, k2tog, k1.
4XL: K1, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, (k2tog, k2) 9 times, (k2tog, k3) 12 times, k2tog, k1.
There are now 99 (102, 102, 105, 105, 114, 120, 126) sts. The yoke is now finished so you just have to knit the neckband.

NECKBAND
With color 2 and 24 in / 60 cm smaller size circular, knit 1 rnd. Work next rnd as: *K2 with color 2, k1 with color 1*; rep * to around.
Continue in two-color ribbing as described in Stitches and Techniques above. Cut color 2.
Finish neckband with a rolled edge: With color 1, knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd, knit 2 rnds. BO.

FINISHING
Seam underarms with Kitchener st. Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Soak sweater in lukewarm water. Roll in towel to absorb excess water.
Lay flat to dry, patted out to finished measurements.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 36 (39¾, 42¾, 45¾, 48¾, 52½, 55½, 58½) in / 91.5 (101, 108.5, 116, 124, 133.5, 141, 148.5) cm
B ≈ 25¼ (26, 26½, 27¼, 27½, 27½, 28½, 28½) in / 64 (66, 67, 69.5, 70, 70, 72.5, 72.5) cm
C ≈ 8½ (8¾, 9¼, 9½, 9¾, 9¾, 10½, 10½) in / 21.5 (22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25, 25, 26.5, 26.5) cm
D ≈ 16¾ (17, 17, 17¾, 17¾, 17¾, 18¼, 18¼) in / 42.5 (43.5, 43.5, 45, 45, 45, 46, 46) cm
E ≈ 18¼ (18¾, 18¾, 19¼, 19¼, 21, 22, 23) in / 46 (47.5, 47.5, 49, 49, 53, 56, 58.5) cm
F ≈ 14½ (15, 15¾, 16½, 17¼, 18¾, 19¾, 20¾) in / 37 (38, 40, 42, 44, 47.5, 50.5, 52.5) cm
G ≈ 19 (19¼, 19¾, 20, 20, 20, 20½, 21) in / 48 (49, 50, 51, 51, 51, 52, 53) cm
H ≈ 8¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¼, 9¾, 10½, 11, 11) in / 22.5 (22.5, 23.5, 23.5, 25, 26.5, 28, 28) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 1

Saga - Cardigan

Saga is a women’s cardigan with stranded colorwork patterns in easy-to-knit panels with short floats. All the edges are finished with crochet
in a contrast color. The cardigan is worked in the round from the top down with a yoke. The yoke is shaped with increases and then split for
body and sleeves which are each worked separately. Finally, the cardigan is cut up the center front steek before the front bands are knitted
on.

YARN Järbo 2 tr ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
Junior (70% acrylic, 30% nylon, 183 yd/168 m / 50 g
Ístex Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 163 yd/150 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 27 rnds in colorwork pattern on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge
if necessary.
SIZES-WOMEN’S XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
GARMENT’S CHEST Approx. 33½ (35½, 37½, 39¾, 44, 48½, 52¾, 57, 61¼) in / 85 (90, 95.5, 101, 112, 123, 134, 145, 155.5) cm
GARMENT’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 21¼ (21¼, 22, 22½, 22⅝, 23, 23¾, 24¼, 24¾) in / 54 (54, 56, 57, 57.5, 58.5, 60, 61.5, 63) cm
GARMENT’S SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 17 (17, 17¾, 18½, 18½, 17¾, 17¼, 16½, 16¼) in / 43 (43, 45, 47, 47, 45, 44, 42, 41) cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS
Color 1: Approx. 140 (150, 170, 180, 200, 220, 240, 260, 280) g (color 74110, Sandy)
Color 2: Approx. 130 (140, 150, 160, 180, 200, 220, 230, 250) g (color 74122, Cranberry Red)
Color 3: Approx. 60 (60, 70, 80, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120) g (color 74130, Plump Plum)
Color 4: Approx. 20 (20, 20, 30, 30, 30, 30, 40, 40) g (color 74147, Country Walk)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 2.5 and 6 / 3 and 4 mm: 24 and/or 32 in / 60 and/or 80 cm circulars + 16 in / 40 cm circular in larger size + sets of 5 dpn
CROCHET HOOK U. S. size B-1 or C-2 / 2.5 mm
NOTIONS 8 buttons about ¾ in / 18 mm in diameter
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together = right-leaning decrease.
Ssk (slip, slip, knit): One at a time, slip 2 stitches knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit together through back loops = left-
leaning decrease.
Invisible Increase in Stitch Below/Right-Lifted Increase (RLI): Insert right needle knitwise into stitch below first stitch on left needle. Lift loop
onto left needle and knit into front loop. Now knit original first st.
German Short Rows: Double st (DS) = The double stitch or German short rows is a turning method that does not leave holes at each turn.
Work to st where work will be turned. Sl 1 purlwise wyf, firmly pull yarn backwards over right needle so you flip st and have 2 stitch legs or a
double stitch (DS) on the needle; work rem sts on needle.
After working the specified number of short rows, you will join the double sts one at a time. Work to 1st DS, knit/purl it, catching both legs of
DS to make 1 st.
It will help you keep track of the double sts if you place a marker at each so you can count them and minimize the danger of missing one as
you continue knitting.
For more help, see the video on Järbo’s youtube page.
Ribbing, worked in the round: *K1, p1*; rep * to * around.
Ribbing, worked back and forth: WS: K1, *p1, k1*; rep * to * across. RS: K1, *k1, p1* rep * to * until 2 sts rem, k2.
Stockinette, worked in the round: Knit all stitches on all rounds.
Stockinette, worked back and forth: Knit on RS and purl on WS.
Pattern: Work stranded colorwork pattern in stockinette following chart.
Steek: 6 extra stitches at center front which are later cut open. The steek stitches are not included in the pattern or stitch counts. Work the
steek in vertical stripes on pattern color rounds: *K1 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC*; rep * to * once more.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn around hook, bring yarn through loop of previous stitch= 3 loops on hook, yarn around hook and through
all 3 loops.
Crocheted “bead stitch”: The crocheted edging along the edge consists of “bead stitches” worked as follows: Begin with 1 hdc. Now work
the “bead” around the hdc (with loose tension in your hand), yarn around hook (yah), catch yarn around hdc = 3 loops on hook, yah, catch
yarn around hdc = 5 loops on hook, yah, and draw through all 5 loops.

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Sleeve Length: The various sizes have different lengths on the yoke and the sleeve length compensates for it. Because this is calculated on
standard measurements and sleeve length is very individual, you should, therefore, always try on the garment to make sure it fits your
measurements.

Important information about the charts:

1. When working chart A (yoke), note that there is one chart for sizes XXS-M as well as 2XL-4XL and another chart for sizes L and XL.
2. The small pattern panels with repeats of 6 stitches x 5 rows, need 1 st less than the total stitch count for the larger pattern panels so the
designs will be symmetrical on each side of the front of the body (does not apply to sleeves). For that reason, the stitch count must be
adjusted by 1 st each time a small panel is worked on the yoke and body: Decrease 1 st on first row of pattern panel and increase 1 in
corresponding place on panel’s last row. Do not increase/decrease just inside front edge; instead, go 10-15 sts in on the row or center back.
Below you’ll find information about which rows on charts A and B this applies to – it is a good idea to mark these rows on the charts. For
example, draw a ring around the row number so you won’t forget to decrease and increase when it is necessary.
Chart A: Sizes XXS-M, rows 4, 8, 24, 28, 44, and 48. Sizes L-XL, rows 16, 20, 36, and 40. Sizes 2XL-4XL, rows 4, 8, 24, 28, 44, 48, 64, and 68.
Chart B: All sizes, rows 1, 5, 21, and 25.
3. On the yoke and body, the pattern begins with chart stitch 1 and the repeat (framed in blue) is repeated around + one last st is worked at
end of round on the larger panels so the pattern will be symmetrical at center front. On the sleeves, begin the pattern on given stitch and,
because the stitch count decreases at center of underarm, this stitch shifts a step to the left on the chart. Make sure that the pattern stays
centered on the sleeves (yellow center mark on chart).

NECKBAND
With smaller size circular and color 1, pick up and knit 103 (103,107, 107, 111, 111, 111, 115, 119) sts around neck. Work back and forth in
ribbing (see Stitches and Techniques) until neckband measures 1¼ in / 3 cm. The outermost st at each side is an edge st. End on a WS row.

YOKE
Change to larger size circular (24 or 32 in / 60 or 80 cm) and join to work in the round. With color 2, CO 4 sts which, together with the edge st
at each side, will form the center front 6-st steek (see Stitches and Techniques). Pm on each side of steek. The rnd now has 101 (101, 105,
109, 109, 109, 113, 117) sts = 6 steek sts (steek sts are not included in stitch counts).

Rnd 1 (row 1 on chart A): With color 2, work in stockinette, increasing 20 (20, 16, 16, 36, 36, 36, 44, 46) sts as described below. Knitting Tip:
An almost invisible increase st is RLI (see Stitches and Techniques).

First Increase Rnd

XXS and XS: K2, (RLI, k5) 9 times, (RLI, k6) 1 time, (RLI, k5) 9 times, RLI, k3.
S and M: K3, (RLI, k6) 3 times, (RLI, k7) 9 times, (RLI, k6) 3 times, RLI, k3.
L, XL, and 2XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 17 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 17 times, RLI, k2.
3XL: K1, (RLI, k2) 9 times, (RLI, k3) 25 times, (RLI, k2) 9 times, RLI, k1.
4XL: K1, (RLI, k2) 10 times, (RLI, k3) 25 times, (RLI, k2) 10 times, RLI, k1.
= 121 (121, 121, 121, 145, 145, 145, 157, 163) sts.

Rnd 2 (row 2 on chart A): With color 2, raise back neck and shoulders with short rows. Work around until 14 (14, 15, 15, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22) sts
rem on rnd; turn, DS (see Stitches and Techniques). Purl until 14 (14, 15, 15, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22) sts rem before beginning of rnd; turn, DS. *Knit
until 2 sts before previous DS; turn, DS. Purl until 2 sts before DS at turn; turn, DS*. Rep * to * once more. Knit to end of rnd, work each DS as
one st when you come to them.
Rnd 3 (row 3 on chart A): With color 2, knit around, increasing 24 (24, 24, 24, 36, 36, 48, 48, 54) sts as described below and working each DS
as one st when you come to them.

Second Increase Rnd

XXS-M: K2, (RLI, k5) 11 times, (RLI, k6) 1 time, (RLI, k5) 11 times, RLI, k3.
L and XL: K2, (RLI, k4) 17 times, (RLI, k5) 1 time, (RLI, k4) 17 times, RLI, k2.
2XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 23 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 23 times, RLI, k2.
3XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 17 times, (RLI, k4) 13 times, (RLI, k3) 17 times, RLI, k2.
4XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 26 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 26 times, RLI, k2.
= 145 (145, 145, 145, 181, 181, 193, 205, 217) sts.

Continue working chart A. Make sure you follow the correct chart for your size. Don’t forget to adjust the stitch count (+/- 1 st) on the first
and last row when working the narrow pattern panels (read the section Important information about the charts above). Change to longer
circular as the stitch count increases. Work through chart row 10 (10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 10, 10, 10). On the next rnd (= chart row 11 (11, 11, 11, 15,
15, 11, 11, 11), increase 48 (48, 48, 48, 60, 72, 48, 48, 54) sts as follows:

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Third Increase Rnd
XXS-M: K1, (RLI, k3) 23 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 23 times, RLI, k2.
L: K1, (RLI, k3) 29 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 29 times, RLI, k2.
XL: K1, (RLI, k2) 17 times, (RLI, k3) 37 times, (RLI, k2) 17 times, RLI, k1.
2XL: K2, (RLI, k4) 23 times, (RLI, k5) 1 time, (RLI, k4) 23 times, RLI, k2.
3XL: K2, (RLI, k4) 17 times, (RLI, k5) 13 times, (RLI, k4) 17 times, RLI, k2.
4XL: K2, (RLI, k4) 26 times, (RLI, k5) 1 time, (RLI, k4) 26 times, RLI, k2.
= 193 (193, 193, 193, 241, 253, 241, 253, 271) sts.

Continue working chart A. Work through chart row 22 (all sizes). On next rnd (chart row 23), increase 48 (60, 24, 24, 48, 72, 48, 48, 36) sts as
follows:

Fourth Increase Rnd

XXS: K2, (RLI, k4) 23 times, (RLI, k5) 1 time, (RLI, k4) 23 times, RLI, k2.
XS: K1, (RLI, k3) 23 times, (RLI, k4) 13 times, (RLI, k3) 23 times, RLI, k2.
S and M: K4, (RLI, k8) 11 times, (RLI, k9) 1 time, (RLI, k8) 11 times, RLI, k4.
L: K2, (RLI, k5) 23 times, (RLI, k6) 1 time, (RLI, k5) 23 times, RLI, k3.
XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 17 times, (RLI, k4) 37 times, (RLI, k3) 17 times, RLI, k2.
2XL: K2, (RLI, k5) 23 times, (RLI, k6) 1 time, (RLI, k5) 23 times, RLI, k3.
3XL: K2, (RLI, k5) 17 times, (RLI, k6) 13 times, (RLI, k5) 17 times, RLI, k3.
4XL: K3, (RLI, k7) 8 times, (RLI, k8) 19 times, (RLI, k7) 8 times, RLI, k4.
= 241 (253, 217, 217, 289, 325, 289, 301, 307) sts.

Continue working chart A. Work through chart row 30 (30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 30, 30, 30). On next rnd (= chart row 31 (31, 31, 31, 35, 35, 31, 31, 31),
increase 12 (24, 72, 72, 24, 24, 72, 84, 102) sts as follows:

Fifth Increase Rnd

XXS: K10, (RLI, k20) 5 times, (RLI, k21) 1 time, (RLI, k20) 5 times, RLI, k10.
XS: K5, (RLI, k10) 5 times, (RLI, k11) 13 times, (RLI, k10) 5 times, RLI, k5.
S and M: K1, (RLI, k3) 35 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 35 times, RLI, k2.
L: K6, (RLI, k12) 11 times, (RLI, k13) 1 time, (RLI, k12) 11 times, RLI, k6.
XL: K6, (RLI, k13) 5 times, (RLI, k14) 13 times, (RLI, k13) 5 times, RLI, k7.
2XL: K2, (RLI, k4) 35 times, (RLI, k5) 1 time, (RLI, k4) 35 times, RLI, k2.
3XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 17 times, (RLI, k4) 49 times, (RLI, k3) 17 times, RLI, k2.
4XL: K1, (RLI, k3) 50 times, (RLI, k4) 1 time, (RLI, k3) 50 times, RLI, k2.
= 253 (277, 289, 289, 313, 349, 361, 385, 409) sts.

Sizes XXS-S: The increases for the yoke are finished. Continue working pattern following chart A through chart row 42 for XXS and XS and
through row 48 for S. Go to section Divide for sleeves and body .

Sizes M-4XL: Continue working chart A. Make sure you follow the correct chart for your size. Work through chart row 42. On next rnd (= chart
row 43), increase - (-, -, 12, 24, 12, 24, 24, 24) sts as follows:

Sixth Increase Rnd

M: K12, (RLI, k24) 5 times, (RLI, k25) 1 time, (RLI, k24) 5 times, RLI, k12.
L: K6, (RLI, k13) 11 times, (RLI, k14) 1 time, (RLI, k13) 11 times, RLI, k7.
XL: K14, (RLI, k29) 5 times, (RLI, k30) 1 time, (RLI, k29) 5 times, RLI, k15.
2XL: K7, (RLI, k15) 11 times, (RLI, k16) 1 time, (RLI, k15) 11 times, RLI, k8.
3XL: K8, (RLI, k16) 11 times, (RLI, k17) 1 time, (RLI, k16) 11 times, RLI, k8.
4XL: K8, (RLI, k17) 11 times, (RLI, k18) 1 time, (RLI, k17) 11 times, RLI, k9.
= - (-, -, 301, 337 361, 385, 409, 433) sts.

Only sizes M-XL: The increases for the yoke are finished. Continue working pattern following chart A. Make sure you follow the correct chart
for your size. Work through chart row 50 for M and 52 for XL. Go to section Divide for sleeves and body .

Only sizes 2XL-4XL: Continue working pattern following chart A. Work through chart rnd 50. On next row (= chart row 51), increase - (-, -, -, -, -
, 12, 24, 24) sts as follows:

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2XL: K16, (RLI, 32) 5 times, (RLI, k33) 1 time, (RLI, 32) 5 times, RLI, k16.
3XL: K8, (RLI, k17) 11 times, (RLI, k18) 1 time, (RLI, k17) 11 times, RLI, k9.
4XL: K9, (RLI, k18) 11 times, (RLI, k19) 1 time, (RLI, k18) 11 times, RLI, k9.
= - (-, -, -, - -, -, 397, 433, 457) sts.

The increases for the yoke are finished. Continue working pattern following chart A through chart row 59 for 2XL, row 62 for 3XL, and row 67
for 4XL.

DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES AND BODY

The yoke is now finished and the piece is divided for body and sleeves at the same time as working the last row of chart A: work following
chart row 43 (43, 49, 51, 53, 55, 60, 63, 68).
Work 39 (42, 44, 47, 52, 57, 62, 68, 72) sts = left front. Place the following 49 (54, 56, 57, 64, 67, 74, 80, 84) sts on a holder = left sleeve. CO 13
(12, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24) new sts for underarm (between front and back). Work the next 77 (85, 89, 93, 105, 113, 125, 137, 145) sts = back.
Place the following 49 (54, 56, 57, 64, 67, 74, 80, 84) sts on a holder = right sleeve. CO 13 (12, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24) new sts for underarm
(between back and front). Work the last 39 (42, 44, 47, 52, 57, 62, 68, 72) sts = right front.

BODY
There are now 181 (193, 205, 217, 241, 265, 289, 313, 337) sts rem for body. The pattern continues, but now you will work following chart B
(all sizes). So that the pattern will match on body and yoke, begin pattern on chart row 1 (1, 7, 9, 19, 21, 18, 21, 26). Begin by working chart
though row 40 and then repeat rows 1-40 until body measures approx. 11¾ in / 30 cm (all sizes). End with a complete pattern panel + 3
more rnds with color 2. Because the body pattern began on different rows on the chart for the various sizes, it is difficult to exactly specify
the length for all sizes. Cut colors 2 and 3.
Ribbing at lower edge of body: Use smaller size circular (either length), and color 1. Begin by binding off the center 4 steek sts. Use the 2 rem
steek sts (one on each side of steek) for edge sts on fronts. Knit to end of row. Now work ribbing back and forth (see Stitches and
Techniques). The first row = WS. Continue in ribbing until it measures 2 in / 5 cm. BO in ribbing.

SLEEVES
Both sleeves are worked the same way. Read entirely through the instructions before you begin knitting the sleeves.
Place the held sleeve sts onto larger size short circular = 49 (54, 56, 57, 64, 67, 74, 80, 84) sts. Also pick up and knit 1 st in each of the cast-on
underarm sts = 13 (12, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 20, 24) sts for a total of 62 (66, 70, 72, 80, 86, 94, 100, 108) sleeve sts.

The rnd begins at center of underarm. The st in the middle of the cast-on sts is last st of rnd and should be worked with MC (either color 2 or
3, depending on pattern) throughout – pm around that st. Begin on same row on chart B as on body = chart row 1 (1, 7, 9, 19, 21, 18, 21, 26)
and begin on st 1 (11, 9, 8, 4, 1, 9, 6, 2). Work around in pattern until sleeve is approx. 2 in / 5 cm long. Now begin decreasing on underarm to
shape sleeve, working decrease rnds as follows.

Decrease Rnd: K2tog, work in pattern until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1.
Rep the decrease rnd every 2 (1¾, 1½, 1¾, 1⅜, 1¼, 1, ¾, ⅝) in / 5 (4.5, 4, 4.5, 3.5, 3, 2.5, 2, 1.5) cm until you’ve decreased a total of 6 (7, 8, 8,
10, 11, 13, 15, 17) times = 50 (52, 54, 56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74) sts rem. Note that you will work a pattern panel at lower edge of sleeve (see the
section below beginning, At the same time ). Change to larger size dpn when sts no long fit around circular.

At the same time: When sleeve is 10¾ (10¾, 11½, 12½, 12½, 11½, 11¼, 10½, 10) in/ 27.5 (27.5, 29.5, 31.5, 31.5, 29.5, 28.5, 26.5, 25.5) cm long,
work a pattern panel following chart C. Before knitting chart C, it will look nicest if you finish the pattern on chart B completely + 3 rnds in
color 2. The last part of the sleeve, the lowest panel (chart C) + ribbing measures 6⅛ in / 15.5. cm. So, you should adjust the sleeve length
before beginning chart.

Work in pattern following chart C. Because the different sizes produce varying lengths as you decrease, the differing gauges can influence
where in the pattern you are and so adjusting the sleeve length cannot precisely indicate at which stitch in the chart you should begin.
However, you can calculate it as follows:
Chart stitch 5 is the center st in the pattern. Count out to find the center st on the sleeve and then count back to beginning of rnd to
determine which st on chart to begin with.

After completing lowest pattern panel, cut colors 2 and 3. The rest of the sleeve is worked with color 1. Knit 2 rnds. Change to smaller size
dpn. Knit 1 rnd, decreasing 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12) sts evenly spaced around = 44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58, 60, 62) sts rem. Work around in
ribbing for 2 in / 5 cm. BO in ribbing.

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Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
REINFORCE AND CUT STEEK
Stitch either by machine or hand. Sew two parallel lines of fine stitching on each side of center steek st. Carefully cut steek open between
the pairs of stitching lines. Or, you can cut steek open after knitting front bands – either way works. It might be a bit trickier to pick up and
knit sts for the front bands before the cardigan is cut but it can also be more secure. Do what you think is best.

FRONT BANDS AND FACINGS

The front bands are worked back and forth in ribbing on smaller size circular (24 or 32 in / 60 or 80 cm and color 1. All the bands are finished
with a narrow stripe in a contrast color (color 4).
The stitches are picked up inside the edge sts along the ribbing and between body and edge sts along the pattern panels on the body. For
the optimal number of sts for the front bands, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows along the ribbing and 3 sts for every 4 rows along the
body. The total should be an odd number of sts. Begin on RS, up at neck on left side, and, on right side, at the lower edge, at ribbing.

Left front band (without buttonholes): With color 1 and smaller size circular, work back and forth in ribbing. The last row is on RS. Cut color
1. Attach color 4 on RS and knit 1 row. BO knitwise on WS. Mark spacing for buttons with the top one on neckband and lower one approx. 1
in / 2.5 cm from lower edge. Space rem buttons evenly between.

Right front band (with buttonholes): Work as for left band, but, make buttonholes on rows 4 and 5, matching placement of buttons on left
band. Buttonhole: BO 2 sts (or as many sts as necessary for chosen buttons), and, on next row, CO same number of sts over gap.

Facings: With smaller size circular and color 2, pick up and knit sts along back of front band, inside ribbing edges at top and bottom and in
“valley” between steek sts and edge (same place where sts for band were picked up). Work 6 rows back and forth in stockinette or as many
rows as necessary to cover cut edges. BO.

CROCHETED EDGINGS
With hook U. S. B-1 or C-2 / 2.5 mm and color 4, crochet “bead stitches” (see Stitches and Techniques) along neck and lower ribbing of
sleeves and body.
NOTE When working first bead st, replace first hdc with ch 2.
On neck edge, begin on RS, at top and outermost on right band. At lower edge of body, work on RS, at lower, outermost edge of left band.
On sleeves, begin at center of underarm on RS. Crochet bead st all the way around/along edges in every other st: insert hook into the purl
sts (skip knit sts in ribbing).

FINALLY
If you haven’t already cut steek open, do so now. Fold facings over cut edges and sew down on WS. Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Sew on
buttons.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 33½ (35½, 37½, 39¾, 44, 48½, 52¾, 57, 61¼) in / 85 (90, 95.5, 101, 112, 123, 134, 145, 155.5) cm
B ≈ 21¼ (21¼, 22, 22½, 22⅝, 23, 23¾, 24¼, 24¾) in / 54 (54, 56, 57, 57.5, 58.5, 60, 61.5, 63) cm
C ≈ 7½ (7½, 8¼, 8¾, 8⅞, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 11) in / 19 (19, 21, 22, 22.5, 23.5, 25, 26.5, 28) cm
D ≈ 13¾ (13¾, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾) in / 35 (35, 35, 35, 35, 35, 35, 35, 35) cm
E ≈ 18¼ (18¼, 19, 19, 19¾, 19¾, 19¾, 20¼, 21) in / 46.5 (46.5, 48, 48, 50, 50, 50, 51.5, 53.5) cm
F ≈ 11 (11¾, 12¾, 12⅞, 14⅜, 15½, 16¾, 18, 19¼) in / 28 (30, 32, 32.5, 36.5, 39, 42.5, 45.5, 49) cm
G ≈ 17 (17, 17¾, 18½, 18½, 17¾, 17¼, 16½, 16¼) in / 43 (43, 45, 47, 47, 45, 44, 42, 41) cm

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Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Wenche Roald Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 1

Järtecken (Omens) – Mittens with Doubled Cuffs

A järtecken is an omen about something that will come. According to folk beliefs, such a foreboding gives us lead threads to the future. The
Järtecken mittens, are embellished with “troll crosses” – symbols carved into objects, or over doors and windows to prevent trolls and evil
spirits from entering and harming people and their possessions. The designer, Maja, hopes that these mittens will protect and warm you
during the dark season of the year.

YARN Tencel Raggi (75% wool, 25% tencel, 291 yd/266 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Mellanraggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 284 yd/260 m / 100 g)
Astrid (100% superwash wool, 137 yd/125 m / 50 g)
Lady (100% acrylic, 138 yd/125 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 28 sts x 34 rnds on U. S. 2.5 / 3 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
MITTEN’S: CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 5½-8 in / 14-20 cm (when stretched)
MITTEN’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 9½ in / 24 cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS
MC: Approx. 80 g (color 25001, Light Grey)
CC: Approx. 20 g (color 25002, Ash Grey)
NEEDLES U. S. size 2.5 / 3 mm: set of 5 dpn
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

The mittens are very elastic and will fit well around the hands.

Invisible Increase in Stitch Below/Right-Lifted Increase (RLI): Insert right needle knitwise into stitch below first stitch on left needle. Lift loop
onto left needle and knit into front loop. Now knit original first st.

Latvian Braid
Rnd 1: *K1 with CC, k1 with MC*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 2: Holding both strands in front of work throughout, with each color change, bring new color under the yarn just used: *P1 with CC, p1
with MC*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 3: Holding both strands in front of work throughout, with each color change, bring new color over the yarn just used: *P1 with CC, p1
with MC*; rep * to * around.

Knitting Tip: 200 g yarn will be enough for two pairs of mittens if you reverse the main and contrast colors.

RIGHT MITTEN

CUFF – Stranded Colorwork

With CC, CO 60 sts and divide sts over 4 dpn. Join to work in the round.
Make a Latvian braid as explained above.
With MC: Knit 2 rnds.

Work charted pattern in stockinette (knit all rounds); work sts 1-12 5 times around from chart rows 1-11. Read chart from right to left.

With MC: Knit 2 rnds.

Make another Latvian braid.
With MC: Knit 2 rnds.

Now the stranded colorwork pattern knitting is finished – it’s time to continue onto the ribbing.

CUFF – Ribbing
Turn work inside out.
With MC: Knit 1 rnd towards the left (= opposite the direction you worked before. Continue working in the new direction.
Decrease Rnd: *K2tog, k3*; rep * to * around = 48 sts rem.

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Now work ribbing: K1, *p2, k2*; rep * to * until 3 sts rem. End with p2, k1.
Rep Ribbing Rnd until ribbing measures 2 in / 5 cm.

Now the cuff is completely finished!

HAND
The hand is worked in ribbing on back of hand and stockinette on the palm:
Back of Hand: K1, *p2, k2*; rep * to * a total of 5 times, p2, k1.
Palm: Knit all sts.
Work a total of 12 rnds as above, before starting thumb gusset.

Thumb Gusset – Right-Hand Mitten

Increase in 3rd and 5th sts on needle 3 (sts 27 and 29 of rnd). Increase with RLI (see Stitches and Techniques).
Increase on every other rnd until thumb gusset has 17 sts. As you increase, the number of sts between the increases is: 3-5-7-9-11-13. Place
17 thumbhole sts on a holder.

Continue, with ribbing on back of hand and stockinette on palm. At the same time , on next rnd, CO 3 sts over gap = 48 sts. Work as est for
3½ in / 9 cm.

Shape Top of Mitten

Decrease Rnd 1: K1, *p2tog, k2*; rep * to * a total of 5 times, p2tog, k1, k1, *sl 1, k1, psso, k2*; rep * to * 3 times, *k2tog, k2*; rep * to * 2
times, k2tog, k1 = 36 sts rem.

Work 3 rnds with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Decrease Rnd 2: *Sl 1, k1, psso, k1*; rep * to * a total of 3 times, *p2tog, k1*; rep * to * a total of 3 times. *Sl 1, k1, psso, k1*; rep * to * a total
of 3 times, *k2tog, k1*; rep * to * 3 times = 24 sts rem.

Knit 3 rnds.

Decrease Rnd 3: *Sl 1, k1, psso *; rep * to * a total of 3 times, *k2tog*; rep * to * a total of 3 times, *sl 1, k1, psso *; rep * to * a total of 3 times,
*k2tog*; rep * to * a total of 3 times = 12 sts rem.

Knit 1 rnd.
Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

THUMB
Place the held 17 thumb sts onto dpn. Pick up and knit 3 sts in the 3 cast-on sts over thumbhole. Divide the 20 sts onto 4 dpn. Work around
in stockinette until thumb is 2¼ in / 5.5 cm long or desired length

Decrease Rnd 1: K2tog around = 10 sts rem.

Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd 2: K2tog around = 5 sts rem.

Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

LEFT MITTEN
Work as for right mitten, placing thumb gusset on opposite side as described below. Read chart from left to right, instead of right to left.

Thumb Gusset – Left-Hand Mitten

Increase in 3rd and 5th sts on needle 4 (sts 44 and 46 of rnd). Increase with RLI (see Stitches and Techniques).
Increase on every other rnd until thumb gusset has 17 sts. As you increase, the number of sts between the increases is: 3-5-7-9-11-13. Place
17 thumbhole sts on a holder.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Soak mittens in lukewarm water, roll in a towel to squeeze out excess water, pat mittens into shape, and lay
flat to dry.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Maja Karlsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Maja Karlsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 2

Fabel (Fable) – Pullover with Cables

A good story has a long life and even a fine wool sweater can be passed down from generation to generation. Designer Ronja wanted to
design a timeless and boxy pullover with cables that can be worn with everything and that will become a favorite from year to year. This
sweater is worked from the bottom up. It is divided at the underarms with the back and front then knitted back and forth until finished and
sewn together. The sleeve stitches are picked up and knitted around the armholes and each sleeve is worked in the round down to the cuff.
The lovely cable pattern extends over the front, back, and sleeves.

YARN Järbo 2 tr ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
Junior (70% acrylic, 30% nylon, 183 yd/168 m / 50 g
Ístex Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 163 yd/150 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 32 rows/rnds in stockinette on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge
if necessary.
SIZES-WOMEN’S XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
GARMENT’S CHEST Approx. 38½ (41¾, 45, 48, 51¼, 54¼, 57½, 60¾) in / 98 (106, 114, 122, 130, 138, 146, 154) cm
GARMENT’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 20½ (21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
GARMENT’S SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 15¾ (16¼, 16½, 17, 17, 17¼, 17¾, 17¾) in / 40 (41, 42, 43, 43, 44, 45, 45) cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS Approx. 400 (400, 400, 500, 500, 500, 600, 600) g (color 74103, Nostalgia)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 2.5 and 4 / 3 and 3.5 mm: 24/32 in / 60/80 cm circulars + sets of 5 dpn; cable needle
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Ribbing: *K1, p1*; rep * to *. On WS, work knit over knit and purl over purl.
Stockinette, back and forth: Knit on RS and purl on WS.
Cables: Work following charts and instructions in text.

PULLOVER
The sweater is worked in the round in one piece up to the armholes.
With smaller size circular, CO 240 (260, 276, 296, 312, 328, 348, 364) sts. Join, being careful not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd.
Work 4 rnds in ribbing (see above).

Change to larger size circular and begin cable pattern, beginning on chart row 1: K14 (19, 23, 28, 32, 36, 41, 45), work 30 sts from chart I,
work 32 sts from chart II, 30 sts from chart III, k14 (19, 23, 28, 32, 36, 41, 45), pm for side, k14 (19, 23, 28, 32, 36, 41, 45), work charts in same
order as for front, and end row with k14 (19, 23, 28, 32, 36, 41, 45).

Continue with stockinette on both sides, rows 2-16 on charts I and III, and rows 2-24 on chart II. Then rep rows 1-16 on charts I and III, and
rows 1-24 on chart II. Work as est until body measures approx. 13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15½, 15¾, 16¼, 16½) in / 34 (35, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42)
cm and you’ve worked an even-numbered chart row.

Now divide for two pieces: work the following row to marker at side, remove marker and place next 120 (130, 138, 148, 156, 164, 174, 182)
sts onto a holder for front.

TOP SECTION OF BACK

Turn work and work back and forth on the 120 (130, 138, 148, 156, 164, 174, 182) sts of back.

Work as est until armhole depth is 7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9½, 10, 10¾) in / 18 (19, 20, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27) cm. BO the center 34 (34, 34, 36, 36, 36,
38, 38) sts for back neck and finish working one side. At neck edge, on every other row, BO 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times.

After the last decrease, work 11 (13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts on WS; turn. Slip first st wyf, tighten yarn behind work and tug upwards so the
slipped st pulls up and forms a double st (with two legs). Work to end of row. Turn and work 22 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts (work both legs
of double st together as one st); turn. Sl first st and make a double st as before and work to end of row. Turn, work to end of row and BO on
following row.

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Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Work opposite side of back neck to correspond.

TOP SECTION OF FRONT

Work as for back, but, begin decreasing for neck when piece measures 5½ (6, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8½, 9) in / 14 (15, 16, 17, 18.5, 20, 21.5, 23) cm.
BO the center 20 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24) sts for front neck and finish working one side. At neck edge, on every other row, BO 3 sts 2 times,
2 sts 3 times, and 1 st 3 times.

Work as est until armhole depth is 7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 9) in / 18 (19, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) cm. Work 11 (13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts on
WS; turn. Slip first st wyf, tighten yarn behind work and tug upwards so the slipped st pulls up and forms a double st (with two legs). Work to
end of row. Turn and work 22 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts (work both legs of double st together as one st); turn. Slip 1 and make double st;
turn and work to end of row. BO.

Work opposite side of front neck to correspond.

Seam shoulders.

SLEEVES
Work sleeves either with a long magic loop circular or 5 dpn.

With RS facing and larger size needles, beginning at lower edge of side, pick up and knit sts around armhole: 42 (44, 46, 48, 52, 55, 58, 61) sts
from edge up to shoulder, and 42 (44, 46, 48, 52, 55, 58, 61) sts down opposite edge = 84 (88, 92, 96, 104, 110, 116, 122) sts total. K18 (20, 22,
24, 28, 31, 34, 37), work sts of chart IV, k18 (20, 22, 24, 28, 31, 34, 37).

Continue as est until sleeve is ¾ in / 2 cm long. Decrease 1 st at beginning and end of rnd as follows: k1, sl 1, k1, psso, work as est until 3 sts
rem, k2tog, k1.
Rep the decrease rnd every ¾ (¾, ¾, ¾, ⅝, ⅝, ⅝, ⅝) in / 2 (2, 2, 2, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) cm another 13 (14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24) times = 56 (58, 60,
62, 64, 68, 70, 72) sts rem.

Continue without further decreasing until sleeve is 14¼ (14½, 15, 15½, 15½, 15¾, 16¼, 16¼) in / 36 (37, 38, 39, 39, 40, 41, 41) cm long.
Change to smaller size needles and work k1, p1 ribbing, decreasing 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 14, 16, 16) sts evenly spaced around on first rnd = 48 (50,
50, 52, 52, 54, 54, 56) sts rem. Continue in ribbing for until ribbing measures 1½ in / 4 cm. BO in ribbing.

Make second sleeve the same way.

FINISHING
Neckband: With smaller size circular, beginning at a shoulder seam, pick up and knit 116 (118, 118, 120, 120, 120, 122, 122) sts around neck.
Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 2½ in / 6 cm. BO in ribbing. Fold band in half and sew down edge on WS.

Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Turn sweater inside out and pat out to finished measurements. Spray sweater with water and leave until
dry.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 38½ (41¾, 45, 48, 51¼, 54¼, 57½, 60¾) in / 98 (106, 114, 122, 130, 138, 146, 154) cm
B ≈ 20½ (21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
C ≈ 7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9½, 10, 10¾) in / 18 (19, 20, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27) cm
D ≈ 13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15½, 15¾, 16¼, 16½) in / 34 (35, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42) cm
E ≈ 21 (21¼, 21¼, 21½, 21½, 21½, 21¾, 21¾) in / 53.5 (54, 54, 54.5, 54.5, 54.5, 55, 55) cm
F ≈ 11¾ (12¾, 13½, 14¼, 15½, 16½, 17¾, 19) in / 30 (32, 34, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48) cm
G ≈ 15¾ (16¼, 16½, 17, 17, 17¼, 17¾, 17¾) in / 40 (41, 42, 43, 43, 44, 45, 45) cm
H ≈ 6¾ (7, 7, 7¼, 7¼, 7½, 7½, 7¾) in / 17.5 (18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.5) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 1

Hede – Mittens

Gunnar Hede in Selma Lagerlöf’s En Herrgårdssägen (A Manor House Legend) hopefully had warm mittens with ample cuffs as extra
protection against wind blasts and driving snow in the spruce forests. (The twisted traveling stitch pattern is a stylized spruce.) The mitten
are identical, so you can pull either one on either hand, but they fit well because the thumb gusset is at the side and the top shaping is
asymmetrical.

YARN Svensk Ull (Swedish Wool) (100% Swedish wool, 197 yd/180 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpe (100% wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g)
Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% polyamide, 165 yd/151 m / 100 g)
Ístex Léttlopi (100% Icelandic wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 28 rnds in stockinette on U. S. 4 / 3.5 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
SIZES - WOMEN’S (MEN’S)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 9½ (11) in / 24 (28) cm
WIDTH Approx. 4¼ (4¾) in / 11 (12) cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS Approx. 100 (100) g (color 59001, Arctic Fox) / 59008, Pine Tree Green)
NEEDLES U. S. size 4 / 3.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
NOTIONS Stitch holder
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-leaning increase.
Half hitch: Make a loop around your left thumb as for backwards loop cast-on. Insert right needle into loop and gently tighten loop.
Sl 1, k1, psso: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted st. Or, you can ssk (slip, slip, knit): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time,
as if to knit, move stitches back to left needle and knit them together through back loops = left-leaning decrease.

CUFF
Cast-on:
This is a decorative cast-on with the advantage of working without having to measure out the yarn first; just leave an end long enough to
weave in later.

Cable Cast-on: Make a slip knot (counts as a stitch) and place it on left needle. Knit into loop but don’t slip new st off! Instead, twist the right
needle a half turn to the right and place loop backwards on left needle. Remove right needle.

*Insert right needle between the two outermost sts on left needle. Bring yarn through knitwise. Twist st before placing it on left needle as
above.* Rep * to * until you have 48 (48) sts. Insert right needle between the two outermost sts one last time and bring yarn through but
leave loop on right needle. You will knit this last st together with last st of row.

Cuff pattern with garter stitch and slipped stitches;

Row 1: With same side facing you, *K2, p4*; rep * to * across, at the same time , dividing sts onto 4 dpn. Purl last st of row together with first
st (the st you left on right needle). With 12 sts per dpn, begin each needle with k2 and end with p4.
Rnd 2: *Sl 2 purlwise wyb, k4*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 3: *K2, p4*; rep * to * around.
Rep Rnds 2-3 another 12 (14) times.

HAND
Knit 1 rnd, at the same time , shifting sts one step sideways (= knit 1 st over to next dpn) so the rnd begins in the middle of a smooth knit
column. This is the little finger side.

Next Rnd: Increase 2 (6) sts with yarnovers:

Women’s: *K12, yo, k12*; rep * to *.
Men’s: [K6, yo] 3 times, k6*; rep * to *.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Next Rnd: Knit the knit sts and k1tbl into each yarnover = 50 (54) sts.

THUMB GUSSET
Now begin pattern following chart and increasing for thumb gusset on one side. On odd-numbered rnds, work the pattern with crossed sts
and increase on even-numbered rnds. Note that the chart only shows the pattern – see below for instructions for entire round.
Rnd 1: *K2 (3), work 21 sts of chart, k2 (3)*; rep * to *.
Rnd 2: K24 (26), M1R, k2, M1L, k24 (26) = 52 (56) sts.
Rnd 3: K2 (3), work 21 sts of chart, k6 (8), 21 sts of chart, k2 (3).
Rnd 4: K25 (27), M1R, k2, M1L, k25 (27) = 54 (58) sts.
Continue as est, making mirror-image increases with 2 sts in between on even-numbered rnds and through chart row 15 (17) = 14 (16) new
sts = 64 (70) sts total.
Rnd 16 (18): K25 (27), place 14 (16) thumb sts on a holder, CO 4 sts with half hitches (see Stitches and Techniques), k25 (27) = 54 (58) sts.
Rnd 17 (19): Work pattern following chart and knit the half hitch sts.

Make a small gusset over thumbhole:

Women’s:
Rnd 18: K23, sl 1, k1, psso, k4, k2tog, k23 = 52 sts rem.
Rnd 20: K23, sl 1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k23 = 50 sts rem.

Men’s:
Rnd 20: K25, sl 1, k1, psso, k4, k2tog, k25 = 56 sts rem.
Rnd 22: K25, sl 1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k25 = 54 sts rem.

Work to and including chart row 37 and then work 0 (2) rnds in stockinette.

SHAPE TOP
The decreases begin at the little finger side.
Rnd 1: K1, sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 3 sts rem on rnd, k2tog, k1.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Rep Rnds 1-2 another 3 (5) times = 42 (42) sts rem.

Now decrease on both sides.

Dpn 1 and 3: K1, sl 1, k1, psso, knit to end of needle.
Dpn 2 and 4: Knit until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1.
Decrease the same way another 8 (8) times = 10 (10) sts rem.

Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

THUMB
Divide the held thumb sts onto 3 dpn.
Begin picking up sts in middle of thumbhole. Pick up and knit 3 sts, k14 (16) held sts. Pick up and knit 3 sts to middle of thumbhole.
Decrease 2 sts on next rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts rem, sl 1, k1, psso, k1 = 18 (20) sts rem.

Work around in stockinette until thumb is 2¼ (2½) in / 5.5 (6) cm long. Decrease tip as for last rnd of hand on every rnd until 10 (8) sts rem.
Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

Make second mitten the same way.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Soak mittens in lukewarm water, roll in a towel to squeeze out excess water, pat mittens into shape, and lay
flat to dry. You can also lightly felt mittens when damp by carefully rubbing them between your palms.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 9½ (11) in / 24 (28) cm
B ≈ 8¾ (9½) in / 22 (24) cm
C ≈ 4¾ (5½) in / 12 (14) cm
D ≈ 2½ (2¾) in / 6 (7) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 2

Tuvstarr - Poncho

The Tuvstarr poncho is a lofty and comfortable garment that suits every body type. Its loose and encompassing fit makes it just as nice for
lounging on the sofa as for finer occasions. Designer Kajsa Vuorela Fredriksson’s inspiration for the poncho was John Bauer‘s magical
illustrations of the princess Tuvstarr.

YARN Astrid (100% superwash wool, 137 yd/125 m / 50 g)

ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Mellanraggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 284 yd/260 m / 100 g)
Fuga (50% superwash wool, 50% acrylic, 126 yd/115 m / 50 g)
Lady (100% acrylic, 138 yd/125 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 20 sts x 23 rnds in stockinette = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES 1 (2)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
GARMENT’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 26 (26¾) in / 66 (68) cm
GARMENT’S CIRCUMFERENCE AROUND LOWER EDGE Approx. 82¾ (94½) in / 210 (240) cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS
Color 1: Approx. 450 (550) g (color 18426, Red Wine)
Color 2: Approx. 130 (200) g (color 18405, Heather Beige)
NEEDLES U. S. size 6 / 4 mm: 48 in / 120 cm circular
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-leaning increase.
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front loop = right-leaning increase.
Backwards Loop Cast-on: *Form a loop so working end of yarn lies in front of yarn coming from previous stitch; place loop on right needle.*
Repeat * to until you have made the specified number of cast-on stitches.
German Short Rows: Double st (DS:) The double stitch or German short rows is a turning method that does not leave holes at each turn.
Work to st where work will be turned. Sl 1 purlwise wyf, firmly pull yarn backwards over right needle so you flip st and have 2 stitch legs or a
double stitch (DS) on the needle; work rem sts on needle.
After working the specified number of short rows, you will join the double sts one at a time. Work to 1st DS, knit/purl it, catching both legs of
DS to make 1 st.
It will help you keep track of the double sts if you place a marker at each so you can count them and minimize the danger of missing one as
you continue knitting.
See video on Järbo’s youtube channel: https://youtu.be/Sn28lla3W9s

The chart is read from the bottom up and from right to left. WS rows are read from left to right. Work chart to marked pattern repeat, work
repeat the number of times specified in instructions. Finish with the last stitches on the chart.
The pattern repeat is framed with a heavy black line.

Markers: Place marker between two stitches and slide to right needle as you come to each. Pm = place marker; sl m = slip marker

The poncho is worked top down, beginning at the neckband/collar. After the neckband and stranded colorwork yoke, the armholes are
shaped and, finally, the body is finished with a slightly longer short-row section on the back. If only one number is given, it applies to both
sizes.

NECKBAND
Work in the round.
With color 1, CO 124 sts. Join, being careful not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd.
Ribbing Rnd: *K3, p1*; rep * to * around.
Rep Ribbing Rnd until neckband measures 8 in / 20 cm.

YOKE
Single-color section:
Knit 1 rnd, increasing 32 sts (increase with M1L) evenly spaced around = 156 sts.
Rnd 1, color 1: K1, M1L, k77, M1R, pm for left shoulder, k1, M1L, k77, M1R (4 sts increased).

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Kajsa Vuorela Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Rnd 2: *K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1R*; rep * to * once more = 4 sts increased).

Colorwork Pattern section:

Now work following chart A:
Pattern Rnd: With colors 1 and 2, work following chart A, work repeat and repeat a total of 2 times .
(= 92 sts increased for a total of 292 sts).
Cut color 2.

Single-color section:
Rnd, color 1: *K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1R*; rep * to * once more (4 sts increased).
Rep this rnd 11 more times. (= 48 sts increased for a total of 340 sts).

Colorwork Pattern section:

Now work following chart B:
Pattern Rnd: With colors 1 and 2, *work following chart B, work repeat and repeat a total of 27 times*; rep * to * once more over back.
(= 20 sts increased for a total of 356 sts).

Single-color section:
Size 1:
Rnds 1-2: With color 1, knit around.
Rnd 3: *K1, M1L, knit to marker for left shoulder, M1R*; rep * to * once more (4 sts increased.
Rnd 4: With color 1, knit around.
Rep Rnds 3-4 3 more times and then work Rnd 4 once more. (= 16 sts increased for a total of 376 sts).

Size 2:
Pattern Rnd: With color 1, *K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1R*; rep * to * once more (4 sts increased.
Rep this rnd 10 more times. (= 44 sts increased for a total of 408 sts).

Colorwork Pattern section:

Both sizes:
Now work following chart C for chosen size:
Pattern Rnd: With colors 1 and 2, *work following chart C, work repeat and repeat a total of 8 (9) times*; rep * to * once more over back.
[= 40 (52) sts increased for a total of 416 (456) sts].

ARMHOLES
Now divide piece for armholes and begin working back and forth separately on front and back.

Front:
Place sts for back on a holder or extra circular while you work front. Remove markers.

Single-color section:
Row 1 (RS): With color 1, knit next 208 (228) sts; turn.
Row 2 (WS): P208 (228); turn.
Rep Rows 1-2 another 5 times.

Colorwork Pattern section:

Work pattern section back and forth on both RS and WS rows.
On WS rows, read chart from left to right.

Size 1: Pattern Row: Work and rep chart D a total of 13 times; turn.
Size 2: Pattern Row: K2 with color 1, work and rep chart D a total of 14 times, k2 with color 1; turn.

Single-color section:
With color 1, work 11 rows back and forth in stockinette.
Cut yarn.

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Back:
Place sts for front on a holder or extra circular while you work back. Place back sts on circular and work as for front but do not cut yarn at
end of single-color section.

BODY
The body is now joined again to work in the round, with new sts cast on for underarms.
Use backwards loop method for cast-on.

Continue as follows:
Place sts of front on circular. Begin working in the round.

Set-up Rnd: With color 1, CO 2 (10) sts on right needle, pm for beginning of rnd here, knit sts of front, pm for left side, CO 2 (10) sts on right
needle, knit to marker for beginning of rnd [=4 (20) sts increased for a total of 420 (476) sts].

Work following chart E, repeating pattern a total of 15 (17) times around.

Cut color 2.

With color 1, knit 1 rnd.

Short Rows:
Now lengthen back with short rows, using German short row method. (see Stitches and Techniques).

Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K10; turn.
Row 2 (WS): DS, purl to marker for left side, p10; turn.
Row 3 (RS): DS, knit to marker for beginning of rnd, k5; turn.
Row 4 (WS): DS, purl to marker for left side, p5; turn.
Row 5 (RS): DS, knit to marker for beginning of rnd; turn.
Row 6 (WS): DS, purl to marker for left side; turn.
Row 7 (RS): DS, knit until 5 sts before marker for beginning of rnd; turn.
Row 8 (WS): DS, purl until 5 sts before marker for left side; turn.
Row 9 (RS): DS, knit until 10 sts before marker for beginning of rnd; turn.
Row 10 (WS): DS, purl until 10 sts before marker for left side; turn.
Row 11 (RS): DS, knit around to marker for beginning of rnd, at the same time decreasing (with k2tog) 16 sts evenly spaced around.
When you come to them, knit each DS as a regular st (that is, knit both legs together).

Ribbing:
Finish poncho body with ribbing:
*K3, p3*; rep * to * around.
When ribbing is 1¼ in / 3 cm long, BO in ribbing. Cut yarn.

RIBBING AROUND ARMHOLES

Pick up and knit 48 (56) sts around armhole with approx. 4 sts for every 5 rows.

Work armhole ribbing around each armhole as follows:

*K3, p3*; rep * to * around.
When ribbing is 1¼ in / 3 cm long, BO in ribbing. Cut yarn.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Wet-block poncho to finished measurements.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 8 (8) in / 20 (20) cm
B ≈ 26 (26¾) in / 66 (68) cm
C ≈ 82¾ (94½) in / 210 (240) cm
D ≈ 9½ (11) in / 24 (28) cm

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Version 2

Skogsfrun (Forest Woman) – Shawl

This shawl is knitted from tip to tip, so it’s easy to adjust the width. Knit with increases until you have at least half the yarn left to make sure
you’ll have enough. Garter stitch makes the shawl reversible and double yarnovers emphasize the lace pattern. One edge is worked double
so it won’t stretch out and the other is enhanced with picots. The pattern is inspired by the forest woman in Gösta Berling’s saga, although
she didn’t wear a shawl.

YARN Järbo 2 tr ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
Junior (70% acrylic, 30% nylon, 183 yd/168 m / 50 g
Ístex Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 163 yd/150 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 17 sts x 32 rows in garter st = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
WIDTH Approx. 82¾ in / 210 cm
LENGTH DOWN CENTER BACK Approx. 19¾ in / 50 cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS Approx. 200 g (color 74105, Wollen)
NEEDLES U. S. size 8 / 5 mm: 24-32 in / 60-80 cm circular
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY *

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Slip 1 purlwise (sl 1): Hold yarn in front of work (wyf) and slip 1 stitch as if to purl; move yarn between the needle tips to wrong side so you
can knit the next stitch.
Increase 2 (kfbf): Knit 3 times into the same stitch (knit into front, back, and front of stitch) before you slip st off needle.
Sl 1, k1, psso = Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch = left-leaning decrease.
K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together = right-leaning decrease.
Ssk (slip, slip, knit) = One at a time, slip 2 stitches knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit together through back loops = left-
leaning decrease.

CAST-ON
CO 5 sts and work the first 5 rows as follows:
Row 1: (K1, sl 1) 2 times, k1.
Row 2: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, kfbf = 7 sts.
Row 3: Sl 1, k1, psso, k1, (sl 1, k1) 2 times = 6 sts.
Row 4: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, k2.
Row 5: K2, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.

PICOT EDGING
Now repeat the following 4-row sequence until you have 8 sts; end with Row 4. On each repeat, the shawl increases by 1 st.
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, knit until 1 st rem, kfbf.
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
Row 3: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.

LACE PATTERN ON ONE SIDE

Now you have 8 sts and it is time to begin Row 1 of a new 4-row sequence. The lace pattern will be on the same side as the increases. Rep
the following 4 rows until you have 20 sts; end with Row 4.
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, knit until 1 st rem, kfbf.
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
Row 3: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, yo twice, ssk.
Row 4: K2, k1tbl (twisted knit), knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
It is important to knit one of the yarnovers through back loops you don’t lose a stitch.

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TRIANGLE PATTERN
Now you have 20 sts and it’s time to begin on Row 1 of another 4-row sequence. The triangle pattern will be on the same side as the slipped
sts. The lace holes are made the same way as before on the increase side, so there are no new knitting techniques. You will also knit this
pattern on the same rows as when making the lace at the side.
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, knit until 1 st rem, kfbf.
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
Row 3: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, k2, k2tog, yarnover twice, ssk, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, yo twice, ssk.
Row 4: K2, k1tbl, knit to the two yarnovers, k1, k1tbl, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.

The chart shows the slipped sts at the side and the triangle pattern. Note that only every other row (the picots) is shown!
The first triangle has three holes across the width where it is the widest. The second triangle grows until It has 4 holes across. Every new
triangle increases by one hole where it is widest.
When you’ve worked the sequence where the fifth triangle is widest (7 holes), you’ve worked half the shawl and it’s time to begin
decreasing. You should have 89 sts, but if there are one or two too many, it doesn’t matter.

SHAPING WITH DECREASES

Continue triangle pattern, although now with smaller triangles at the same time as you decrease on one side following the 4-row sequence.
Row 1: When 6 sts rem, k2tog, k3, kfbf.
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
Row 3: When 6 sts rem, k2tog 2 times, yo twice, ssk.
Row 4: K2, k1tbl, knit to the two yarnovers, k1, k1tbl, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.

After last triangle, continue decreasing as above until 9 sts rem; end with Row 4. Now work the following 4-row sequence until 6 sts rem;
end with Row 4.
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, k2tog, knit until 1 st rem, kfbf.
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.
Row 3: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, k2tog, knit to end of row.
Row 4: K2, k1tbl, knit to the two yarnovers, k1, k1tbl, knit until 4 sts rem, (sl 1, k1) 2 times.

Last Row: (Sl 1, k1) 2 times, k2tog = 5 sts rem.

BO: Sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2tog, pass 1 st over. Cut yarn and draw end through rem st.

Weave in ends neatly on WS. Wash shawl carefully; stretch it to finished measurements and leave flat until dry. So the two sides will be
symmetrical, you can fold the shawl in half for blocking. This makes a foldline in the center which you can later eliminate by dampening
center, smoothing it out, and leaving shawl to dry again.

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Version 1

Silva – Cardigan

Silva is the Latin word for forest and seed and moss stitch knitting will help you imagine the scents the forest! This cardigan features the
simplest form of seed stitch, but doubled (moss stitch) it draws in more, making it especially good for the edging. The sleeves are knitted
directly on the body, with short row shaping to form a small sleeve cap. The model is straight and the pattern repeats short so it’s easy to
length the sweater if you want.

YARN Järbo 2 tr ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
Junior (70% acrylic, 30% nylon, 183 yd/168 m / 50 g
Ístex Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 163 yd/150 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 32 rows in seed st on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
SIZES-WOMEN’S S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
SIZES-EU 36-38 (40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
GARMENT’S CHEST Approx. 34¾ (38¼, 41¾, 45¼, 48¾, 52½, 56) in / 88 (97, 106, 115, 124, 133, 142) cm
GARMENT’S TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 18¼ (19, 19¼, 19¾, 20, 20½, 21¼) in / 46 (48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 54) cm
GARMENT’S SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 19 (19, 19¾, 19¾, 19¾, 20½, 20½) in / 48 (48, 50, 50, 50, 52, 52) cm
YARN COLORS AND AMOUNTS Approx. 400 (400, 400, 500, 500, 500, 600) g (color 74111, Almond)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 1.5 and 2.5 / 2.5 and 3 mm: 32-60 in / 80-140 cm circulars (length depending on size) + sets of 5 dpn; cable needle (or
short dpn)
CROCHET HOOK U. S. size B-1 or C-2 / 2.5 mm (for button loops)
NOTIONS 5 or 7 buttons; stitch holders, stitch markers
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Sl 1: With yarn held in front (wyf), slip one stitch as if to purl. Take yarn to WS (wrong side) between the needle tips so you can knit the next
stitch.
Sl 2: With yarn held in front (wyf), slip two stitches (together or one at a time, depending on pattern)) as if to purl. Take yarn to WS (wrong
side) between the needle tips so you can knit the next stitch.
Sl 1, k1, psso: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped st over knitted st = left-leaning decrease. Or, you can Ssk (slip, slip, knit) =
One at a time, slip 2 stitches knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit together through back loops = left-leaning decrease.
German Short Rows: Double st (DS): The double stitch or German short rows is a turning method that does not leave holes at each turn.
Work to st where work will be turned. Sl 1 purlwise wyf, firmly pull yarn backwards over right needle so you flip st and have 2 stitch legs or a
double stitch (DS) on the needle; work rem sts on needle.
After working the specified number of short rows, you will join the double sts one at a time. Work to 1st DS, knit/purl it, catching both legs of
DS to make 1 st.
It will help you keep track of the double sts if you place a marker at each so you can count them and minimize the danger of missing one as
you continue knitting.
For more help, see the video on Järbo’s youtube channel.
Half hitch: Make a loop around your left thumb as for backwards loop cast-on. Insert right needle into loop and slip it over.
Mattress Stitch: With right sides facing you: Insert needle down into center of a stitch and up in center of stitch above. Do the same on the
corresponding stitches on the opposite side. Alternate on right and left sides, always going down with the needle where the yarn comes up.
Tighten yarn as you work so the seam is even.

NOTE The pattern on chart E with (k1, p1) on first row and then knit over purl and purl over knit on subsequent rows is called seed st in U.S.
English but moss st in British. The pattern on chart B with an even number of sts that is (k1, p1) for two rows followed by 2 rows of (p1, k1) is
moss st in U. S. English but double moss st in British. This pattern is written in U. S. English.

BODY
With smaller size circular, CO 186 (206, 226, 246, 266, 286, 306) sts. The first row (not shown on chart) is worked on WS: Sl 1, k1, p4, [k12 (14,
16, 18, 20, 22, 24), p6] 9 times, k12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24), p4, k2.

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Next Row (RS): Work following charts, beginning on Row 1: A over 7 sts, [B over 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts, C over 8 sts] 9 times, B over 10
(12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts, D over 7 sts.
Rep the 4 rows of charted patterns a total of 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) times.

Now exchange chart B (moss st) with E (seed st) and C with F. Note the yarnover increases on chart F: On WS, make yarnover in the center of
the pattern and, on next row, twist yarnover (work into back loop). You’ll increase 9 sts = 195 (215, 235, 255, 275, 295, 315) sts.

Continue following charts A, E, F, and D (on chart F, rep Rows 5-12) until body measures approx. 10¾ (11½, 11½, 11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¾) in /
27 (29, 29, 30, 31, 31, 32) cm. End with a RS row so you can bind off for underarms on WS.

Bind off for Underarms:

With WS facing you, work 45 (49, 53 57, 61, 65, 69) sts in pattern, BO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts (seed sts), work 85 (93, 101, 109, 117, 125,
133) sts, BO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts, 45 (49, 53 57, 61, 65, 69) sts.

RIGHT FRONT
With WS facing you, work 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts in pattern. On next st (the last), begin working in stockinette (= knit on RS, purl on WS)
to make it easier to pick up and knit sts for sleeve. End row with CO 2 (half hitch method) edge sts at armhole edge = 47 (51, 55, 59, 63, 67,
71) sts. Continue as est until piece measures approx. 15 (15¾, 16¼, 16½, 16½, 17, 17¾) in / 38 (40, 41, 42, 42, 43, 45) cm.

Shape Neck:
With RS facing you, BO 6 sts (all sizes) and work to end of row = 41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65) sts rem. Now work German short rows:
Work 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts, DS; turn.
Work 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59) sts, DS; turn.
Work 33 (37, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56) sts, DS; turn.
Work 31 (35, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53) sts, DS; turn.
Work 29 (33, 35, 39, 43, 46, 50) sts, DS; turn.
Work 27 (31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47) sts, DS; turn.
Now work over 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts straight up until piece measures approx. 18¼ (19, 19¼, 19¾, 20, 20½, 21¼) in / 46 (48, 49, 50, 51,
52, 54) cm. Do not bind off – place rem sts on a holder.

LEFT FRONT
Work as for right front, reversing shaping to correspond. You will also CO 2 edge sts and later BO 6 sts on WS when beginning neck shaping.

BACK
CO 2 edge sts, Knit the first st instead of purling it. Work in pattern until you come to last st – knit last st instead of purling it. End row with
CO 2 edge sts (half hitch method) = 89 (97, 105, 113, 121, 129, 137) sts. Continue as est until piece measures approx. 17 (17¾, 18¼, 18½, 19,
19¼, 20) in / 43 (45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51) cm.

Shape Neck:
With RS facing you, Now work 6 rows of German short rows:
Work 34 (38, 41, 45, 49, 52, 56) sts, DS; work to end of row.
Work 30 (34, 37, 40, 45, 47, 51) sts, DS; work to end of row.
Work 27 (31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47) sts, DS; work to end of row.
Now work 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts straight up until back is same length as front. Do not bind off – place rem sts on a holder.
Place the center 21 (21, 23, 23, 23, 25, 25) sts on a holder.
Work other side, beginning on RS.
Work 34 (38, 41, 45, 49, 52, 56) sts.
Work 30 (34, 37, 40, 45, 47, 51) sts, DS; work to end of row.
Work 27 (31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47) sts, DS; work to end of row.
Now work 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts straight up until back is same length as front. Do not bind off – place rem sts on a holders.
Now work 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts straight up until same length as other side. Do not bind off – leave rem sts on needle so you can join
to front.

JOINING SHOULDERS
Place each set of 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) shoulder sts on larger side dpn or circular. Use a third needle to bind off ( you can use the tip of a
circular). It doesn’t matter whether you bind off away from or towards the neck.
With WS facing (RS of each piece facing each other):
Insert needle knitwise into 2 sts – the first st on each needle – and knit them together. *K2tog with next pair of sts, pass first worked st on

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right needle over second;* rep * to * until all sts have been bound off.
Join opposite shoulder the same way.

COLLAR
Place held sts on smaller size circular.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 2 sts purlwise wyf, knit across, joining each pair of double-st legs. When you come to the straight sides, pick up and knit 3 sts
for every 4 rows inside outermost st. End with sl 2 purlwise wyf.
Row 2: Knit across (this row begins RS of collar when it is folded out).
Row 3: Sl 2 sts purlwise wyf, knit across and end with sl 2 purlwise wyf.
Row 4: K3, *k1, p1*; rep * to * until 3 sts rem, k3 (it doesn’t matter whether you knit or purl before the final 3 sts).
Row 5: Sl 2, k1; knit over knit and purl over purl until 3 sts rem, k1, sl 2. At the same time , pm: one after 17 (17, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sts and one
when the same number of sts rem on row.
Row 6: K3, work moss st (chart B to first marker, work ribbing (knit over knit and purl over purl) to second marker, moss st until 3 sts rem,
k1, sl 2.
Row 7: Sl 2, k1, work knit over knit and purl over purl until 3 sts rem, k1, sl 2.
Rep Rows 6-7 until you’ve worked 8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) rows of ribbing in center and moss st at the sides.

Change to larger size circular. Work as est, slipping the outermost 3 sts at each side as before, but remove markers and work moss st (chart
B) in rem sts for 14 (14, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18) rows.

Binding Off (only for collar)

With RS of collar facing you: *K1, sl 1, k1, psso, slip 2 sts from right needle to left needle*; rep * to *. Make sure the bind-off is loose enough
so the edge doesn’t pull in. When 2 sts rem, k2tog; cut yarn and draw end through rem st. This makes a small point but it is easy to fold it to
WS and tack down when you weave in ends.

SLEEVES
With larger size needle and RS facing you, CO 2 edge sts and then pick up and knit between the 3rd and 4th sts around armhole (up to the
cable pattern), beginning where the purl column changes to knit. There will be too many sts if you pick up in every row so skip every 4th
row. When you come to the shoulder join, pick up and knit 1 st at the seam and mark that st. Pick up and knit the same number of sts on
other side of armhole and end with CO 2 sts (half-hitch CO).

For Example: If you worked 8 rep of the cable pattern from armhole to shoulder, you will pick up and knit 48 sts (6 sts per rep of 8 rows)
each on front and back = 96 sts total. With 2 edge sts at each side and 1 st at shoulder seam, the total number of sts = 101.

Next Row (WS): 2 edge sts, p4, knit to the center 7 sts, p7, knit until 6 sts rem, p4, 2 edge sts. Cut yarn. Pm inside the 7 outermost sts at each
side. The next step is to shape the sleeve cap with short rows, beginning at the middle of the row.

Row 1 (RS): Begin by working the center 19 sts of row: work chart E over 5 sts (begin with k1), chart F over 9 sts (begin with Row 9), chart E
over 5 sts (begin with k1), DS.
Row 2: Chart E over 4 sts (begin with p1), chart F, chart E over 9 sts (begin with k1), DS.
Row 3: Chart E over 8 sts, chart F, chart E over 9 sts (knit the doubled legs tog when you come to them), DS.

Continue working back and forth and, on every row, work 4 sts past previous joined DS legs. Always knit DS as for last st before you turn.
The first st (after a slip st) is always purled.

NOTE Do not turn in the outermost 7 sts, but work to end of row if there are not enough sts to turn several times before them. Work in seed
st up to marker and chart G (or respectively H, to mirror image) at the edges. Begin on the row that matches chart F to work the cable turns
on the same rows.

Shape Sleeve with Decreases:

Work decreases on WS on every 8th row, including 1 time per cable rep.
At beginning of row: Work 6 sts following chart, k2tog.
At end of row: When 8 sts rem, sl 1, k1, psso. (This will look like a notch on WS but the purl column will look fine on RS.)

Decrease and work as est until sleeve, at side, measures approx. 17 (17, 17¾, 17¾, 17¾, 18½, 18½) in / 43 (43, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47) cm. End
with a row on RS, optimally, Row 7 on chart F to have a complete circle in the pattern. (If necessary, you can adjust the number of rows in
the cuff for the desired sleeve length. If worked following instructions and gauge, the cuff is approx. 1¾ in / 4.5 cm long.)

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Sleeve Cuff:
Change to smaller size needle and work 3 rows as follows:
Row 1 (WS): 2 edge sts, p1, knit until 3 sts rem, p1, 2 edge sts.
Row 2: 2 edge sts, k1, purl until 3 sts rem, k1, 2 edge sts.
Row 3: Work as for Row 1, and, at the same time , decrease evenly spaced across the knit sts in center of row to 57 (57, 59, 59, 59, 61, 61) sts.

Continue in moss st following chart B between the 3 outermost sts at each side (work these as above) for 14 rows.

Binding Off (cuffs and front bands):

*K1, k2tog tbl, slip 2 sts back to left needle*; rep * to * until 2 sts rem. K2tog; cut yarn and draw end through rem st. This bind-off method is
firmer than the one used for the collar because the sts are knitted together through back loops.

Make the second sleeve the same way.

FRONT BANDS
Both bands are worked the same way. If you want buttonholes (not described here), you can, of course, make them. In that case, make the
button band first so it will be easier to calculate the spacing of the buttonholes.

With smaller size needle and RS facing you: CO 1 st and then pick up and knit sts between the 3rd and 4th sts (up to cable pattern). Skip
every 4th row around armhole. End with a half-hitch cast-on. It does not matter if the total st count is an odd or even number.

For Example: Count the number of turns along edge of chart A pattern. If you worked 35 rep of 4 rows, the number of picked up sts is 35 x 3
= 105 plus a new st at each side.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 2, knit until 2 sts rem, sl 2.

Row 2: K3, work chart B until 3 sts rem, k3.
Row 3: Sl 2, k1, chart B until 3 sts rem, k1, sl 2.
Rep Rows 2-3 until you’ve worked 6 rows of moss st or to desired width of front band.

BO as for sleeve cuffs.

FINISHING
With RS facing out: Seam sleeves with mattress st (see Stitches and Techniques), working up from cuff to armhole. Stitch into the 3rd st in
from edge, the stockinette st, all the way up, so you make the pattern identical with that of chart F. On the last bit, stitch the sleeve edges
firmly to the bound-off edge.

Sew on buttons and mark spacing for buttonholes. Crochet chain loops on opposite band (unless you made buttonholes). On WS, a column
of knit sts runs up nearest the st for picking up sts on front band, With crochet hook: go under both st loops of a knit st, yarn around hook,
ch st to desired length, go under next knit st, yarn around hook, and end with 1 sl st to attach loop. The buttons on model shown in picture
are ⅝ in / 15 mm in diameter and the loop for them is 11 ch sts long. Make each loop separately.

Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Wash sweater following instructions on yarn ball band and pat out to finished measurements. Lay flat to
dry.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 34¾ (38¼, 41¾, 45¼, 48¾, 52½, 56) in / 88 (97, 106, 115, 124, 133, 142) cm
B ≈ 18¼ (19, 19¼, 19¾, 20, 20½, 21¼) in / 46 (48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 54) cm
C ≈ 7½ (7½, 8, 8, 8, 8¼, 8¾) in / 19 (19, 20, 20, 20, 21, 22) cm
D ≈ 10¾ (11½, 11½, 11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¾) in / 27 (29, 29, 30, 31, 31, 32) cm
E ≈ 8 (8, 8¾, 8¾, 8¾, 9½, 9½) in / 20 (20, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24) cm
F ≈ 15 (15, 15¾, 15¾, 15¾, 16½, 17¼) in / 38 (38, 40, 40, 40, 42, 44) cm
G ≈ 19 (19, 19¾, 19¾, 19¾, 20½, 20½) in / 48 (48, 50, 50, 50, 52, 52) cm
H ≈ 8¼ (8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 8¾, 9, 9) in / 21 (21, 22, 22, 22, 23, 23) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ivar Asplund Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 2

Granris (Spruce Twigs) – Cap

In the midst of summer’s colorful display, it’s not easy to discern the spruce tree’s twigs, but in the midwinter darkness, the green shines
through, full of life and protecting you in the mystic winter forest. Designer Ronja wanted to create a cap with a pattern inspired by the
shape and pattern from the deepest forest. The cap begins with a long and warm ribbed brim which is folded triple. The rest of the cap is
worked in a pretty and easily-knitted cable pattern with bobbles. This is the perfect knitting for anyone who wants to try out bobbles and
cables!

YARN Astrid (100% superwash wool, 137 yd/125 m / 50 g)

ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Mellanraggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 284 yd/260 m / 100 g)
Fuga (50% superwash wool, 50% acrylic, 126 yd/115 m /50 g)
Lady (100% acrylic, 138 yd/125 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 29 sts x 34 rnds in ribbing on U. S. 4 / 3.5 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
SIZES - WOMEN’S S/M (L/XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
CAP LENGTH Approx. 8¼ (8¼) in / 21 (21) cm with folded brim; 13½ (13½) in / 34 (34) cm with straight cuff
CAP CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 15 (17) in / 38 (43) cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS Approx. 100 (100) g (color 18418, Forest Green)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 4 and 6 / 3.5 and 4 mm: 16 in / 40 cm circulars or sets of 5 dpn + cable needle
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

Matching Mittens: 92695

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Work around in ribbing: *K1, p1*; rep * to *.
Work around in cable pattern: Work following chart and text instructions.
Left-leaning Decrease: Sl 1, k1, psso = slip 1 st as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped st over knitted st.

CAP
With smaller size circular or dpn, loosely CO 120 (134) sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join. Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 6¾ (6¾) in / 17
(17) cm.
Change to larger size needles and work around in cable pattern following chart I. Begin on Row 1 and work repeat of 15 sts 8 (9) times
around. Increase 1 st on first rnd for size L/XL. Work chart Rows 2-8 and then rep Rows 1-8 another 3 (3) times.
Change to dpn and then work Rows 1-43 on chart II = 8 (9) sts rem.
Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press cap under a damp pressing cloth, making sure you don’t press down bobbles or cables.
Fold ribbing up in thirds.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 1

Polstjärna (Pole Stars) – Slippers

Pole stars show the way home once the sun goes down. These pattern-knitted slippers will keep you warm on cold winter nights. The
slippers are worked from the toe up beginning with the Turkish cast-on. The fantastic pattern is then worked from the chart. The heels on
the slippers are worked back and forth in garter stitch and joined with Kitchener stitch. Thanks to the stretchy heels, these slippers will fit
several foot sizes, making them a perfect gift for someone you like!

YARN Junior Raggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 219 yd/200 m / 50 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS Manos del Uruguay Alegría (75% superwash Merino wool, 25% polyamide, 465 yd/425 m / 100 g)
GAUGE Approx. 30 sts x 52 rnds in garter st on U. S. 2.5 / 3 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
SIZES - WOMEN’S shoe sizes U. S. 7½-8½ / Euro 38-39
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 8¾ in / 22 cm
WIDTH Approx. 4 in / 10 cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS
Color 1: Approx. 50 g (color 68401, Natural White)
Color 2: Approx. 50 g (color 68402, Brown)
NEEDLES U. S. size 2.5 / 3 mm: 24 in / 60 cm circular (if you use magic loop) and set of 5 dpn
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Work around in stockinette: Knit all rounds.
Work around in pattern: Work in stockinette and work pattern following chart.
Garter stitch back and forth: Knit all rows.

SLIPPERS
The slippers are worked from the toe up.
With color 2 and using Turkish cast-on method, wrap yarn 7 times around two needles held together. Knit across one needle and then the
second.

Work around in pattern following chart. The gray squares on the chart indicate “no stitch.” Skip these squares. Increase as indicated on the
chart.

After completing last row on chart, cut color 1. Knit 1 rnd with color 2, at the same time , decreasing 11 sts evenly spaced around = 59 sts
rem.
Knit from beginning of rnd to center of instep, knit center st but do not remove st from left needle. Turn work and knit to last st of previous
row. K1tbl into st you left on needle and turn. The stitch count has increased by 1 = 60 sts.
Continue working back and forth in garter st until you’ve worked 3½ in / 9 cm or until slipper fits your foot.

Work 1 row on WS, cut yarn, leaving an end about 19¾ in / 50 cm long to use for sewing up. Fold corners towards each other with WS facing
up and join with Kitchener st.

Make the second slipper the same way.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Soak slippers in lukewarm water, roll in a towel to squeeze out excess water, pat mittens to finished
measurements, and lay flat to dry.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Version 2

Granris (Spruce Twigs) – Mittens

In the midst of summer’s colorful display, it’s not easy to discern the spruce tree’s twigs, but, in the midwinter darkness, the green shines
through, full of life and protecting you in the mystic winter forest. These mittens have warm doubled cuffs, thumb gussets, and a pretty and
easily-knitted cable pattern with bobbles.

YARN Astrid (100% superwash wool, 137 yd/125 m / 50 g)

ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Mellanraggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 284 yd/260 m / 100 g)
Fuga (50% superwash wool, 50% acrylic, 126 yd/115 m / 50g)
Lady (100% acrylic, 138 yd/125 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 29 sts x 34 rnds in ribbing on U. S. 4 / 3.5 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
SIZES - WOMEN’S S/M (L/XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
TOTAL LENGTH Approx. 9¾ (9¾) in / 25 (25) cm with doubled cuff; 12¾ (12¾) in / 32 (32) cm with straight cuff
WIDTH Approx. 3¼ (3¾) in / 8.5 (9.5) cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS Approx. 100 (100) g (color 18418, Forest Green)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 4 and 6 / 3.5 and 4 mm: sets of 5 dpn + cable needle
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ***

Matching Cap: 92697

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

Work around in ribbing: *K1, p1*; rep * to *.
Work around in stockinette: Knit all rounds.
Work around in cable pattern: Work following chart and text instructions.
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-leaning increase.

LEFT MITTEN
With smaller size dpn, CO 46 (50) sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join. The rnd begins between needle 4 and needle 1. Work around in k1, p1
ribbing for 5¼ (5¼) in / 13 (13) cm.
Change to larger size dpn and work around in cable pattern on back of hand: K1 (2), work 21 sts from chart, k1 (2). K23 (25) for palm. Work 1
more rnd as est.

Now begin thumb gusset on one side: K1 (2), work 21 sts from chart, knit until 3 sts rem on rnd. M1R, k2, M1L, k1. Continue in cable pattern
on back of hand and rep the increase row at the side of palm on every 3rd rnd another 5 (6) times. The stitch count for the gusset increases
by 2 sts on each increase rnd, so work 2 more sts between increases each time.

After completing gusset increases, work 1 rnd as est. On next rnd, work to beginning of gusset. Place the 14 (16) gusset sts onto a holder.
CO 2 new sts over gap and continue in pattern until you’ve repeated chart Rows 1-8 6 times.
Work Rnds 1-5 and then begin shaping top:
Needles 1 and 3: K1, ssk (or sl 1, k1, psso), work to end of needle.
Needles 2 and 4: Work until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1.
Decrease the same way on every rnd, continuing the cable pattern up to Row 8. After that, knit all sts until 8 sts rem.

Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

THUMB
Divide the held thumb sts onto 3 larger size dpn. Pick up and knit 1 (1) st at each side of thumbhole = 16 (18) sts total. Work around in
stockinette until thumb is 2 in / 5 cm long or half way up thumbnail. Decrease tip as follows: k2tog at end of each needle until 4 sts rem. Cut
yarn and draw end through rem sts; tighten.

RIGHT MITTEN
Work as for left mitten, placing thumb gusset on opposite side, after the 1st (2nd) st on needle 3.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Soak mittens in lukewarm water, roll in a towel to squeeze out excess water, pat mittens to finished
measurements, and lay flat to dry.

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ 9¾ (9¾) in / 25 (25) cm
B ≈ 6¾ (7½) in / 17 (19) cm
C ≈ 4¾ (4¾) in / 12 (12) cm
D ≈ 2 (2) in / 5 (5) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Tips & Shortcuts

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.
Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t match the gauge given in
the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item will not be the
correct size or shape.
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.
Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.
Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To determine the right size, we
recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much ease you want the
garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment measurements.
Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around each other on the
wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack
the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.
Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in
the same yarn group).
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth
color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Abbreviations

KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on,
col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch,
inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together (right-slanting
decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place
marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) = round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip
marker, ssk = slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back,
wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc = double crochet, dec = decrease, dtr
= double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m = marker, mc = main color, rep
= repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts = stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr
= triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: [email protected] Designer: Ronja Hakalehto Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål