Study Unit

Electric Lamps, Part 2

 iii

Preview

In this study unit, you’ll continue learning about lamps. It discusses the components of discharge
lamps and how these lamps are used. Fluorescent and high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps are
the two major lamp groups that will be covered in this unit.

When you complete this study unit, you’ll be able to

• List the advantages and disadvantages of each lamp type

• Recognize the different characteristics of each lamp

• Identify the proper application for common types of discharge lamps

• Interpret discharge lamp specifications

• Understand the basic manufacturer’s ordering codes

• Recognize faults that lead to discharge lamp failure

• Realize complications that may occur when working with discharge lamps
 v

Contents

INTRODUCTION TO FLUORESCENT LAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Types of Fluorescent Lamps
Cold-Cathode and Hot-Cathode Fluorescent Lamps
Tubular Fluorescent Lamps
Fluorescent Lamp Color Characteristics
Fluorescent Lamp Codes
Fluorescent Lamp Operating Characteristics

BALLASTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Types of Ballasts
Ballast Comparison Factors
Ballast Certification
Ballast Safety, Temperature, and Sound
Troubleshooting Ballasts

COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Compact Fluorescent Lamp Systems
Types of Compact Fluorescent Lamps
Compact Fluorescent Lamp Ballasts
Limitations of Compact Fluorescent Lamps

HIGH-INTENSITY DISCHARGE LAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

HID Lamp Construction and Operation
HID Lamp Ballasts, Starters, and Dimming
HID Lamp Striking, Warm-Up, and Restrike
HID Lamp Efficiency and Life
HID Lamp Color Characteristics
HID Lamp Temperature
HID Lamp Specifications
Maintaining HID Lamps
Troubleshooting HID Lamps

SELF-CHECK ANSWERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

EXAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
 1

Electric Lamps, Part 2

INTRODUCTION TO FLUORESCENT LAMPS

In the Electric Lamps, Part 1 study unit, incandescent lamps were
discussed. The second part of Electric Lamps is dedicated to the topic of
discharge lamps. The two main categories of discharge lamps are fluores-
cent and high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps. These lamps are mainly
used in commercial and industrial settings due to their long life, energy
efficiency, and high light output.
As with the incandescent lamp, it’s important to learn about the discharge
lamp’s components and operating characteristics. In addition, discharge
lamps have ballasts that need to be coordinated with the different lamp
types. A ballast is a device used to regulate current flow to a discharge
lamp. An electrician needs to be able to recognize the lamps and ballasts
specified and be able to locate where they belong on the job.

Fluorescent lamps were invented in France in 1932. They were intro-

duced to the world in 1939 at the World’s Fairs in New York and San
Francisco. The excitement of this new technology was due to the great
efficiency of these lamps.

Types of Fluorescent Lamps

Unlike the incandescent lamp with its many shapes and sizes, the basic
fluorescent lamp is a straight cylindrical glass tube with electrical con-
tacts on either end (Figure 1). The most common electrical contacts, or
bases, are referred to as the medium BiPin type. The most common lamp
length is four feet. The most common diameters are T12 (11 2²) and T8
(1²). The gas mixture inside the lamp consists of argon and neon. This
gas combination serves to start and operate the lamp. Other fluorescent
shapes include the circle shape and the U-bent lamp (Figure 2).

FIGURE 1—A Basic Fluorescent Lamp (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

2 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 2—Additional Fluorescent Lamp Shapes (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

In fluorescent lamps, the electric current flows from an electrode through

a gas-filled tube, charging electrons and creating an arc. The electrons
release energy onto the phosphor crystals on the inside of the glass tube.
The phosphor coating absorbs the energy from the electron collision and
converts it to visible light (Figure 3).
FIGURE 3—When excited
electrons hit a phosphor
coating, they produce
visible light. (Courtesy of
Philips Lighting Company)

Cold-Cathode and Hot-Cathode Fluorescent

Lamps
Inside a fluorescent lamp, the cathodes are the terminals in the ends of
the lamp tube that provide the arc. Traditionally, fluorescent lamps
were classified according to whether they used hot or cold cathodes.
The cold-cathode lamp is the older type, and it requires high voltages for
operation. Cold-cathode lamps are still used in neon advertising signs
because the tubing can be bent into shapes and patterns. However, the
hot-cathode lamp is the more widely used type of fluorescent lamp for
general lighting. The hot-cathode lamp uses a thin-wire electrode
(usually made of tungsten) that requires less applied voltage and
results in less power loss.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 3

Three types of hot-cathode lamps that are used most often include the
preheat lamp, the instant-start lamp, and the rapid-start lamp (Figure 4).
Let’s take a look at these three lamp types.

FIGURE 4—The Hot-Cathode Lamp Family

To rotate the page on-screen,

press Ctrl+Shift+Plus.
4 Electric Lamps, Part 2

In preheat lamps, the lamp starting time is usually delayed a few seconds
while the electrodes are heated up. These lamps are relatively uncommon
except in shorter (under 24 inches), and lower-wattage lamps (under
20 watts). Some old desk lights have these type of lamps, which require
one to hold the starter switch while the lamp warms up.
The rapid-start lamp is the most common full-size and U-bent hot-cathode
lamp. The electrodes in these lamps are heated constantly during
operation. The starting time is approximately one second, but is sensi-
tive to temperature. These lamps usually have high efficacy, and a life
of 20,000 hours is typical. These are the only fluorescent lamps suitable
for dimming applications. Office building general lighting is just one
of the many uses for these lamps.
Instant-start lamps, also known as slimline lamps, can be easily recog-
nized by their single pin bases. In an instant start lamp, the electrodes
don’t need to heat up before or during the lamp’s operation, so no starter
is required. These lamps are designed primarily for environments
that fluctuate in temperature, such as supermarkets and industrial
warehouses.

Tubular Fluorescent Lamps

The standard 40-watt (F40T12) lamp is used about 10 times as often as
all other lamps combined. Since the Energy Policy Act of 1992 (EPAct),
this statistic has been reduced. The EPAct states that all full-wattage 4-
foot T12 lamps with calcium halophosphors (cool white—CW or warm
white—WW) will no longer be permitted. However, the energy-saving
(ES) 34-watt T12 (F40T12/ES) will still be allowed. Similar restrictions
apply to the 8-foot T12 lamps.
In response to the energy crisis of 1973, manufacturers introduced the
energy-efficient T8 lamp (1² diameter, 265mA) and the 34-watt T12
energy saving (ES) lamp (11 2² diameter, 430mA) to replace the T12 lamp.
The T8 lamps offer a higher efficacy than T12 lamps. The only advantage
of the ES lamp over the T8 lamp is that the ES lamp is interchangeable
with the standard T12 lamp. The T8 lamp uses a different ballast. Figure 5
shows a comparison of tubular-fluorescent lamp diameters.

Tubular lamps are found in offices, retail stores, and industrial buildings.
They’re also used as task lights and under-cabinet lighting. In most
general lighting applications the fluorescent lamp is contained in a
recessed fixture that’s mounted in a drop ceiling. It’s useful in indirect
lighting applications, which are those where all of a lamp’s light is
directed upward, then allowed to reflect down.

Slimline lamps, or single-pin instant start lamps, are mostly used in com-
mercial applications such as supermarkets or industrial sites. Although
they come in a range of wattages and sizes, the most popular is the
8-foot F96T12 configuration. Slimline lamps are specified by their lengths,
not their wattages. This means the number after the “F” is the length of
the lamp in inches, not the wattage.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 5

FIGURE 5—Shown here is a comparison of standard fluorescent lamp diameters.

In applications where a low maintenance cost is desired, the 8-foot high-

output (HO) lamp is used. These lamps, designed as F96T12/HO, require
special ballasts, output 8900 lumens of light, and usually last around
12,000 hours. Many can be seen in industrial warehouse installations,
schools, and service station interiors.
The U-tube lamp is another version of the F40T12 lamp. This lamp comes
in 6-inch and 3 5 8-inch leg spacing with a length of 22 inches (Figure 6).
U-lamps are mostly used in 2¢ x 2¢ recessed or surface-mounted fixtures.

FIGURE 6—Leg Spacing of U-shaped

Lamps

Usually found around the house in the kitchen or bathroom, the circline
lamp (like the one shown in Figure 2) was developed to reduce the size
of the fluorescent fixture without reducing the lamp output. Standard
diameters are 6, 8 1 4, 12, and 16 inches.
6 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Fluorescent Lamp Color Characteristics

The color of the light emitted by a fluorescent lamp is determined by the
mineral properties of the phosphors that coat the inside of the lamp. For
example, if one wanted a lamp to emit a bluish color light, you would
select a lamp with a coating of a phosphor such as calcium tungstate.
The phosphors, which are found on the inside of the bulb, are responsible
for producing the specific color of visible light. This light color is determined
by a particular phosphor coating. Different phosphors are characterized
by the color they produce. The emitted color is determined by the
phosphor’s correlated color temperature (CCT), which is measured in
degrees Kelvin. As you know, CCT is a measure of the temperature
equivalent of a color. The three most commonly encountered temperatures,
and the colors that result, are shown in Table 1. Also, remember that the
CRI (color-rendering index) rates how well the apparent colors of objects
lit by a lamp approximate the objects’ actual colors. CRIs range from 0 to
100.

Table 1
COMMON FLUORESCENT LAMP COLORS
Correlated Color Temperature (CCT) °K Color Emitted
3000 Warm White (Reddish)
3500 White
4100 Cool White (Bluish)

As you can see from Table 1, there are different shades of color tempera-
ture. The standard cool white and warm white lamps are the cheapest,
but cause drastic change in the objects they illuminate (CRIs less than
60). This can be apparent if sitting in a room with cool white lamps.
The skin color looks drab or gray, making the person appear sickly. The
deluxe cool and warm white lamps provide better color rendition (CRIs
better than 90), but lumen output is reduced as a result. The white light
produced by triphosphor or rare earth (RE) lamps creates good color (CRIs
between 70 and 90) and maintains lumen output with increased efficiency,
but these lamps are more expensive than the others. They’re used more
in applications where the color of people’s skin or the surroundings is
important. Some examples of critical color installations include an art
classroom or magazine editing room.

Fluorescent Lamp Codes

Because there are so many different types of fluorescent lamps available,
each type is given a special identification code. Fluorescent lamps are
usually divided into families of lamps (such as T8s or T12s), which are
then grouped by wattage. In a manufacturer’s catalog, a lamp locator or
lamp shape guide (Figure 7) and a base identifier (Figure 8) are used to
help locate a specific lamp. Descriptions of the catalog’s headings and
terminology can be found throughout the catalog (Figure 9). You’ll need
to rely on manufacturer’s catalogs to identify unfamiliar lamps.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 7

FIGURE 7—A Fluorescent Lamp Locator (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

8 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 8—Fluorescent Lamp Bases (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

A typical fluorescent ordering code is F 30 T12 / SP35 / RS / WM. The

following list describes each term in more detail:

· F stands for a “fluorescent” lamp.

· 30 stands for the wattage in this case, but sometimes this number
can also be the length of the lamp.

· T12 is the shape of the lamp along with its diameter in eighths of
an inch. In this case it’s 12 ¸ 8 = 11 2 inches in diameter. Since the
T12 lamp has been the most common lamp over the past couple
of decades, the T12 is usually assumed and left out of the lamp
description for 40-watt lamps.

· SP35 stands for the color of the lamp. This lamp has a specified
(SP) color temperature of 3500 K. Note that the ordering code
drops the last two digits of the Kelvin temperature in its descrip-
tion.

· RS means the lamp is a “rapid start” lamp.

· WM stands for “watt-miser” or energy-savings lamp. Each

manufacturer has its own name for their lamps, so this abbrevia-
tion may vary with each manufacturer. Another example used is
the ES abbreviation. When this abbreviation is used, the wattage
is reduced for energy savings, in this case the lamp rated at
30 watts actually consumes only 25 watts.

Before ordering, it’s a good practice to check the full description of each
lamp for any special features.
 Electric Lamps, Part 2
Enlarge

FIGURE 9—A Guide to Fluorescent Lamp Ordering Codes (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

9
10 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Fluorescent Lamp Operating Characteristics

Energy Distribution
Although a fluorescent lamp transforms more of its input energy
into visible light than does an incandescent lamp, the process is still
far from perfect. A total of about 22% of the input energy is turned
into visible light, while the rest is radiated as infrared energy (heat)
or is changed into heat conducted or convected away from the lamp
(Figure 10).

Figure 10—The energy

distribution in a fluo-
rescent lamp is shown
here.

Lamp Mortality
The average life of the four foot long, 32 Watt, T8 lamp is approximately
20,000 hours. This rate can be affected by high or low line voltage to the
ballast, improper ballast or starter, faulty wiring, and incorrect lamp
type for the application. However, a T8 lamp’s life is still about 10 times
the average life of a comparable incandescent lamp with the same light
output.

Temperature
Fluorescent lamps are extremely sensitive to ambient temperatures, more
so than any other type of general lighting source. Maximum output for
most fluorescent lamps occurs when the coolest spot on the lamp is 100°F
(38°C). Indoor luminaires (lighting fixtures) may have fins or air slots to
take heat away, whereas outdoor fixtures are usually tightly enclosed to
assure proper lamp operation in different weather conditions.

Flicker
Using an electromagnetic ballast with a standard fluorescent lamp can
cause a 30% flicker. Flicker is a reduction in the lamp’s illuminating output.
A ballast is a device used to regulate current in a lamp. The flicker caused
by the electromagnetic ballast isn’t generally noticeable unless you’re
working in a stationary position without much movement around you.
The flicker can, however create eyestrain and headaches. Most lamps
used with electronic ballasts are free of flicker. You’ll learn more about
ballasts later in this study unit.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 11

Dimming
Fluorescent lamps operating in rapid start mode are the only fluorescent
lamps suitable for wide-range dimming. Electronic ballasts are used
more for dimming than magnetic ballasts because of their advantage of
eliminating flicker. An additional advantage of electronic ballasts in
dimming circuits is that the dimmer is often part of the ballast, reducing
the number of devices to install. Electronic dimming ballasts can vary
light levels of a fluorescent lamp between full output and 10% output.
Fixtures are sometimes grouped together then controlled by low-voltage
control networks.

Lamp Disposal
The average fluorescent lamp contains approximately 50 milligrams of
mercury. Although this is a small amount, it’s important to comply with
local, state, and federal regulations for proper disposal.
Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Self-Check 1.
12 Electric Lamps, Part 2

✔ Self-Check 1
At the end of each section of Electric Lamps, Part 2, you’ll be asked to check your
understanding of what you’ve just read by completing a “Self-Check.” Writing the answers
to these questions will help you review what you’ve learned so far. Please complete
Self-Check 1 now.

1. True or False? The discharge lamp is popular because it has a long life, is energy-efficient,
and has a high light output.
2. The three types of bases used with a standard T12 fluorescent lamp are the _______, the
_______, and the _______.
3. The terminals at either end of a modern fluorescent tube that provide the arc are called
_______.
4. True or False? Preheat lamps usually have high wattages and long lengths.
5. In the _______ lamp, the electrodes are heated constantly during operation.
6. The _______ lamp has a single-pin base and commonly comes in 8-foot lengths. This lamp
is typically used in supermarkets.
7. The triphosphor or _______ lamp provides CRIs of between 70 and 90.
8. True or False? Fluorescent lamps are not sensitive to environmental temperatures.
Check your answers with those on page 43.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 13

BALLASTS
Fluorescent lamps need ballasts to regulate the current in the lamp as
well as supply the proper starting and operating voltage. If a fluorescent
lamp didn’t have this means of control, the lamp would absorb as much
power as the circuit can supply. This would quickly destroy the lamp.

A ballast’s components, which are contained in a metal box, consist of

a coil of wire wound around a core of laminated steel, a capacitor,
radio interference suppression circuitry, thermal protectors, and wiring
(Figure 11). All of these are sealed inside a mass of black potting compound
that reduces audible noise and improves heat dissipation (Figure 12).

FIGURE 11—The inside of an electronic ballast is shown here. (Courtesy of Advance Transformer Co.)
14 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 12—Typical
Electronic Fluorescent
Ballasts (Courtesy of
GE Lighting)

Types of Ballasts
Ballasts aren’t always interchangeable with different lamp types. Each
lamp needs a compatible ballast. Ballasts can operate one, two, three, or
four lamps at a time. It’s important to note that ballasts use energy. This
means that when calculating the expected electric power consumption
per square foot of an area, the ballast and the lamp must be taken into
consideration. Most full-size fluorescent lamps and U-bent lamps operate
on rapid-start ballasts. Rapid-start ballasts fall into several categories:

· Standard electromagnetic ballasts. These are the least efficient and

least expensive ballast. Many of these ballasts, though still in
current use, were banned in 1990 with the Energy Act because
of their poor efficiency.

· Standard energy-saving electromagnetic ballasts. These consume

approximately half the power of the older ballasts.

· Hybrid or heater-cutout electromagnetic ballasts. These are used

with rapid start lamps. These are energy-efficient ballasts which
turn off the lamp’s electrode heater once the lamp reaches oper-
ating temperature. This helps to reduce power consumption but
sometimes reduces light output as well.

Another type of ballast is the electronic ballast, which takes incoming

60 hertz (Hz) power (from 120 or 277 volts) and converts it to high--
frequency AC (usually 20 to 40 kHz). This ballast is energy efficient and
lowers operating costs. Electronic ballasts have several advantages over
magnetic ballasts:

· They can operate three or four lamps with one ballast, reducing
installation and wiring fees.

· They can operate in parallel mode, so if one lamp goes out the
others will not.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 15

· They have reduced weight, quieter operation, and reduced lamp

flicker.

Magnetic ballasts are still used because they are the least expensive bal-
last available.

Ballast Comparison Factors

In describing and comparing ballasts’quality, a few special terms are
used (Table 2). The crest factor affects lamp life. It’s the ratio of the peak
current to the RMS current. A factor below 1.7 is considered good, while
anything above can reduce lamp life. The power factor measures how ef-
fectively the input power is converted into actual usable power. A high
power factor (HPF) is 0.90 or higher, a normal power factor (NPF) is
usually between 0.25 and 0.70. It’s important to use an HPF ballast in
commercial applications because these types allow a greater number of
fixtures to be intalled. This reduces wire-installation labor and wire costs
and avoids potential high-utilization charges from power companies.
Total harmonic distortion (THD) is caused by electronic ballasts when they
change the frequency wave from 60Hz. Distortion below 20% is pre-
ferred, but 10% or less is even better.

Table 2
BALLAST COMPARISON FACTORS
Parameter Electronic Ballasts Magnetic Ballasts
Lamp Current Crest Factor Less than 1.70 1.65
Flicker Less than 2% 33%
Power Factor Greater than 0.99 0.95
Harmonic Distortion Less than 10% 18-20%

Ballast Certification
Since the ballast is a key part of the fluorescent lighting system, several
organizations have helped to develop standards of ballast operation and
safety. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) is the primary
organization responsible for ballast specifications. Several other certifica-
tions are also applicable (Figure 13).
Section 410-73(e) of the 1999 National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that
all indoor fluorescent fixtures shall incorporate ballast protection.
These ballasts are called Class P ballasts. Basically, the protective device
is a thermal trip device or thermal fuse that responds automatically if
the ballast case exceeds temperatures of 110 C for more than two
hours. Simple reactance-type ballasts used with preheat, single-lamp appli-
cations are exempt from this code requirement.
16 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 13—Illustrated here are

ballast certifications and expla-
nations of the operating and
safety standards they indicate.
(Reprinted with permission
from Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc., and
reprinted with permission from CSA
International, Reprinted with permission
from Certification Ballast Manufacturers,
explanations courtesy of Advance
Transformer Co.)

Ballast Safety, Temperature, and Sound

Safety is an important consideration when installing ballasts and lighting
fixtures. The NEC requires that all ballasts and fixtures must be grounded
due to the potential of a shock hazard by the leakage current of the
ballast.
Temperature is an issue when it comes to starting and operating lamps
in cold weather. The standard ballast will usually work with reasonably
good light output down to 50 F (10 C). Below 50 F (10 C), a low-
temperature ballast is needed to supply the higher starting voltage
needed to start the lamp.

Sound, in the form of a hum, is produced by electromagnetic ballasts.

It’s important to make sure the ballast is installed properly in a fixture
so the hum won’t be amplified. Noise is rated A, B, C, or D. A rating of
“A” is the least amount of noise, and virtually all ballasts compatible
with F40T12 and F32T8 lamps have this designation. The only ballasts
for these lamps that aren’t rated “A” are those used in low-temperature
conditions. All electronic ballasts are rated “A” for sound.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 17

Troubleshooting Ballasts
Very few specialized types of equipment are needed to troubleshoot a
fluorescent lighting system, although the circuitry is somewhat more
complex than that used for incandescent lamps. This is because of the
ballast and its associated wiring. Troubleshooting equipment includes
the following:

· Spare ballasts, lampholders, starters, and lamps

· Voltmeter or multimeter (The voltmeter should have both high

and low scale to permit checking open-circuit voltage across
lamp ends as well as cathode voltage on rapid-start circuits.)

· Cleaning materials

Ballast manufacturers usually print the ballast circuit diagram on the

ballast label to aid in diagnosing circuit problems. Voltmeter checks of
the ballast primary, cathode voltage (rapid-start circuits), and lamp volt-
age (across ends of lamp) will usually isolate ballast problems. With the
aid of the troubleshooting chart (Table 3) and the equipment mentioned,
you can maintain fluorescent lamps and their auxiliary equipment.

Table 3
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART FOR FLOURESCENT LAMPS
Problem Possible Causes Remedies
• Tube will not light. 1. Fuse blown, or circuit breaker 1. Replace fuse, or reset circuit breaker.
switched off
2. Tube defective 2. Replace tube.
3. Dirt on tube 3. Remove tube, and clean it with damp
cloth; let dry before replacing.
4. Tube pins not making proper 4. Rotate tube in holders (for starter and rapid-
contact with lampholders start types). For instant-start type, make sure
pins are fully seated in sockets.
5. Incorrect tube for ballast 5. Check that tube wattage is same as that
shown on ballast.
6. Incorrectly wired ballast 6. Check wiring diagram on ballast. Rewire,
if necessary.
7. Defective starter 7. Replace starter.
8. Defective ballast 8. Replace ballast.
9. Low voltage supplied to ballast 9. Check voltage level of branch circuit.
10. Air temperature below 50° 10. Install low-temperature ballast.

(Continued)
 18 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Table 3—Continued

Problem Possible Causes Remedies

• Ends of tube glow, 1. Defective starter 1. Replace starter.
but center doesn’t
2. Incorrectly wired ballast 2. Check wiring diagram on ballast. Rewire,
light
if necessary.
3. Inadequate ground (especially 3. Check attachment of fixture’s ground wire.
in rapid-start type)
• Tube flickers and 1. Normal with new tube supplied 1. Should improve with about two hours
blinks or spirals by an electromagnetic ballast or of use.
appear inside tube with a new electromagnetic
ballast
2. Tube pins not making proper 2. Rotate tube in holders for preheat and
contact with lampholders rapid-start types. For instant–start type,
make sure pins are fully seated in sockets.
3. Tube defective 3. Replace tube.
4. Air temperature below 50° 4. Install low-temperature ballast.
• Fixture hums or 1. Ballast wires loose or incorrectly 1. Tighten connections, and check wiring
buzzes. attached against diagram on ballast.
2. Incorrect ballast 2. Replace with ballast of correct type and
wattage.
• Brown or grayish Normal
bands about 2 in.
from ends of tube
• Dense blackening Tube defective Replace tube. If tube is new, replace starter
at ends of tube instead.
• Slight blackening Tube approaching life span Replace tube
at ends of tube

Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing

Self-Check 2.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 19

✔ Self-Check 2
1. True or False? Fluorescent lamps need ballasts to regulate the current in the lamp as well as
supply the proper starting and operating voltage.
2. A fluorescent ballast can operate up to _______ lamps at one time.
3. _______ ballasts convert 60 Hz power to high frequency AC power (20 to 40 kHz).
4. The primary organization responsible for ballast specification is called _______.
5. True or False? Ballasts don’t need to be grounded.
6. A standard ballast should operate normally down to a temperature of _______.
Check your answers with those on page 43.
20 Electric Lamps, Part 2

COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMPS

The compact fluorescent lamp was introduced in the 1980s and was
designed to replace the less efficient incandescent lamp. The popularity
of the compact fluorescent lamp continues to rise for two reasons. One is
that it uses one-quarter to one-third the energy of an incandescent lamp.
Second, it lasts about 10 times longer than an incandescent. Compact
fluorescent lamps have a wide range of color, from 2700 K to 5000 K,
and come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and wattages (Figure 14).

FIGURE 14—Compact Fluorescent Lamp Shapes (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

Electric Lamps, Part 2 21

The early production of compact fluorescent lamps was geared towards

the retrofit market. These lamps with self-contained ballasts and screw-in
bases were directly replacing incandescent lamps. Since the popularity
was overwhelming, a large-scale production of lighting fixtures dedicated
only to compact fluorescent lamps has flourished.

Compact Fluorescent Lamp Systems

Compact fluorescent lamps are used in many applications that require
high lumen output, good color rendering, and a low wattage. In residential
installations, compact fluorescent lamps are used in almost every room
of the house. In kitchens they can be used in recessed downlights or in
under-the-cabinet lights. In living rooms, you’ll find them in task lights
or swing-arm fixtures. In bathrooms, the mirror lights and shower lights
may use compact fluorescent lamps. They also can be used in enclosed
exterior fixtures such as security lights, garage lights, or lanterns.

Compact fluorescent lamps are also very useful in commercial installa-

tions. Due to the stricter energy codes, many of the longer compact
fluorescents can be incorporated into 2¢ 2¢ recessed fixtures for general
lighting in office space. In retail lighting, compact fluorescent light can
be used for wall washing (where light is directed over a wall’s surface),
or case lighting. In restaurants and hotels, many open areas use recessed
fluorescent lighting. Again, in the exterior of commercial spaces,
fluorescents can be used in step lights, landscape highlighting, or
other special-effect installations.

Generally, there are three different types of compact fluorescent lamp

systems:

1. Integrated systems contain a lamp, base, and ballast in one unit.

This entire unit is disposed of at the end of its life.

2. Modular systems contain a ballast in a screw-in base with a

replaceable lamp. When the lamp is at the end of its life, a new
lamp is inserted while the base is reused.

3. Dedicated systems contain a ballast and lamp socket wired as part

of the lighting fixture. These fixtures are dedicated to compact
fluorescent lamps only.
Examples of each of these compact fluorescent lamp systems are shown
in Figure 15. As you can see, the integrated and modular types are
designed to fit into a conventional incandescent socket, and are therefore
often used in retrofit applications. Dedicated systems are used when
compact fluorescent lighting is integrated into a building.
22 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 15—The three types of

lamp systems are shown here.
(Courtesy of GE Lighting)

Types of Compact Fluorescent Lamps

The compact fluorescent lamp looks like a miniature U-lamp. This small
U-shape is given a different brand name by each manufacturer. The most
common manufacturer’s names are twin tube, PL, and biax (Figure 16).
Most of the compact fluorescent lamps used in the modular and dedicated
systems consist of a two-pin base or a four-pin base. The two-pin base
lamps are non-dimmable. Two-pin, T-4 lamps require a starter in the base
and come in low wattages, from 5 to 13 watts (Figure 17). The four-pin
base lamps are T-4 or T-5 lamps that can be dimmed with the proper
ballast and don’t have a starter in the base of the lamp (Figure 18).
Compact fluorescent lamps create higher light output levels by increasing
the number of “twin tubes” fused to the base. The “quad biax” contains
4 twin tubes, supplies a mean lumen output of 2720, and is only 6 inches
long.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 23

FIGURE 16—Manufacturers have

different names for their brands of
compact fluorescent lamps.
(Courtesy of GE Lighting)

FIGURE 17—A 2-pin compact

fluorescent lamp is shown here.
(Courtesy of GE Lighting)

FIGURE 18—A 4-pin

compact fluorescent
lamp is shown here.
(Courtesy of GE Lighting)
24 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Compact Fluorescent Lamp Ballasts

Since compact fluorescent lamps are discharge lamps, they require ballasts.
All of the lamps in integral systems contain the ballast in their base.
For the dedicated system, the ballast must be specified. Many of the
low-wattage, two-pin lamps have a normal power factor (NPF) ballast
instead of a high power factor (HPF) ballast. The HPF ballasts raise the
factor to 0.90, instead of 0.45 for the NPF, with the inclusion of a capacitor.
Larger four-pin lamps use the same ballasts as the standard fluorescent
lamps.

Limitations of Compact Fluorescent Lamps

Although the compact fluorescent industry is booming, there are still
some limitations to consider before using compact fluorescent lamps.
The main limitation is the lamp’s size. In most retrofit applications the
compact fluorescent is replacing an incandescent lamp. Many of the
incandescent fixtures are too narrow at the socket opening for the integral
ballast of the compact fluorescent to fit into. Also, the fluorescent lamp is
usually longer than the incandescent, which would cause the lamp to
protrude below the ceiling in a recessed fixture application.

An additional problem is that in ceilings more than 12 feet high, the

compact fluorescent isn’t a good candidate. The lamps shouldn’t be
used in specialized lighting where a tight beam spread is required.
Lastly, care should be taken when using low-wattage preheat compact
fluorescents outdoors. Weather below freezing, 32 F (0 C), may have an
adverse effect on the lamp, causing it not to start.
Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Self-Check 3.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 25

✔ Self-Check 3
1. A compact fluorescent lamp uses _______ to _______ the energy of an incandescent lamp.
2. A _______ lamp can be used to reduce energy usage by replacing incandescent lamps.
3. True or False? All compact fluorescent lamps can be used below freezing temperatures
with a normal ballast.
4. A _______ compact fluorescent systems ballast is found in a separate screw-in base.
5. The lamp used in a dedicated compact fluorescent system doesn’t contain a _______.
6. True or False? A compact fluorescent lamp will fit in any fixture that was originally
intended for incandescent lamps.
Check your answers with those on page 43.
26 Electric Lamps, Part 2

HIGH-INTENSITY DISCHARGE LAMPS

While experimenting in his laboratory at the beginning of the twentieth
century, Peter Cooper Hewitt accidentally discovered the first practical
high-intensity discharge (HID) lamp (Figure 19). Over the years further
developments were made, and the three most popular HID lamps have
been established as high-pressure sodium (HPS), metal halide (MH), and
mercury.

FIGURE 19—A high-

intensity discharge lamp
is used for lighting in
airplane hangars.
(Courtesy of GE Lighting)

High light output per unit size, long life, moderate-to-very-high efficacy,
and reasonable-to-excellent maintenance of light output over their life-
time are characteristics generally attributed to modern HID lamps. In
addition, some lamp types may exhibit special individual features such
as good color-rendering ability and extremely high brightness. Lamp life
can be in the thousands of hours and can range up to 10 times that of an
incandescent lamp.

HID Lamp Construction and Operation

High intensity discharge lamps operate much like fluorescent lamps.
However, in a HID lamp, the electric arc is concentrated in a smaller
glass tube called an arc tube that’s typically made of quartz. The arc tube
is then surrounded by a larger glass enclosure. The arc tube contains a
gas and operates at very high temperature and pressure.

The contents of the quartz arc tube in each type of HID lamp include
the following:

· Mercury (composed of mercury plus argon gas)

· Metal halide (composed of mercury, argon gas, sodium,

scandium, and iodine)
· High-pressure sodium (composed of mercury, xenon gas,
and sodium)
The typical components of the mercury, metal halide, and high-pressure
sodium lamps are shown in Figures 20, 21, and 22.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 27

FIGURE 20—A Typical

Mercury Lamp (Courtesy
of Philips Lighting Company)

FIGURE 21—A Typical

Metal Halide Lamp
(Courtesy of Philips Lighting
Company)
28 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 22—A Typical

High-Pressure Sodium
Lamp (Courtesy of Philips
Lighting Company)

One of the ways to differentiate between lamp types is to look at the arc
tube. If the lamp isn’t energized, you can see the different shapes of the
arc tube. The mercury has a long wide tube, the metal halide has a short
wide tube, and the high-pressure sodium has a long slender tube.

HID Lamp Ballasts, Starters, and Dimming

Like all other discharge lamps, HID lamps require ballasts to regulate
the voltage and start the lamp (Figure 23). The only lamp with a slightly
modified operation is the metal halide lamp, which sometimes contains
a starting electrode within the lamp.
The advantages of using an electronic ballast greatly outweigh the use
of the magnetic ballast in fluorescent lamps, as discussed previously.
This concept doesn’t apply to HID lamps. In most cases, high-frequency
operation doesn’t increase HID lamp efficacy. The only benefit of using
electronic ballasts with HID lamps is that the voltage is controlled, which
enables a more consistent color and longer lamp life.

Although a few HID lamps can be dimmed, it isn’t recommended, due

to wide color shift and loss of lamp efficacy.
Electric Lamps, Part 2 29

FIGURE 23—HID Lamp

Ballasts (Courtesy of Advance
Transformer Co.)

HID Lamp Striking, Warm-Up, and Restrike

It generally takes a cold HID lamp two to seven minutes to reach full
light output. During this warm-up period the lamp will gradually
change colors depending on what type of metals are vaporized. If a
momentary power interruption should occur, the arc will extinguish
and have to cool down before restarting. In HID lamps, restarting
after a brief shutdown is referred to as restriking. The lamp must cool
down until its starting voltage is attainable by the ballast. This restrike time
can vary from one to 15 minutes. The restrike time for HPS lamps
generally range from one to three minutes. Metal halide lamps usually
have the longest delay, of 10 to 15 minutes, before the lamps reach 90
percent light output. Mercury lamps range from three to six minutes
for substantial light output. Restrike time can be a major concern in
manufacturing facilities, where a brief blackout could cause serious
injury. Although HID lamps have been manufactured that can produce
10% of full light output immediately, the more cost-effective solution to
this problem is to install a quartz backup lamp in the fixture with the
HID lamp.

HID Lamp Efficiency and Life

The most energy-efficient light source of the HID family is the high pres-
sure sodium (HPS) lamp. The HPS source has efficacies that range from
65 to 125 (70 W to 1000 W lamps).

The lamp life can vary greatly with HID lamps. A 1500 W metal halide
sports lamp has a life of 6000 hours, where a 750 W HPS lamp has a
rated life of 24,000 hours. It should also be noted that manufacturer’s
rated lamp life is based on a 10-hour starting cycle (10 hours between
starts) as opposed to 3-hour starts for other HID lamps.
30 Electric Lamps, Part 2

HID Lamp Color Characteristics

Driving down the highway at night, you’ll see many HID lamps used
on pole lighting, parking lot fixtures, or floodlights on buildings. One of
the easiest ways to identify a HID lamp is to look at its color. They all
usually have a very distinct color. The HPS lamps have a golden-yellow
color, the metal halide lamps have a slight blue-white color, and the
mercury lamps can usually be found highlighting landscaping with a
green-blue color. The following table summarizes the color characteris-
tics of each lamp (Table 4).

Table 4
HIGH-INTENSITY DISCHARGE (HID) LAMP COLOR COMPARISON
Type of Lamp Average CCT K* Average CRI* Appearance of Color
HPS 1900–2100 22 golden yellow
HPS Deluxe 2200 65–70 golden pink
Higher Wattage MH 3500–4000 65–70 cool white (bluish)
Lower Wattage MH 3000–3200 85 warm white (pinkish)
Mercury 5700 15 green to blue
Mercury Deluxe 3900 50 bluish
*Note: CCT (Corresponding Color Temperature) is based on the Kelvin temperature base—2700
being warm and red, 3500 being white, 5000 being cool and blue. CRI (Color Rendering Index)
is based on 1 through 100 (100 being the truest color).

HID Lamp Temperature

One of the advantages of HID lighting is that it’s fairly insensitive to
temperature. The HPS, mercury, and some metal halide lamps will start
at temperatures of –22°F (–30°C). A few of the metal halide lamps will
only start down to 10°F (–12°C). So, in general HID lamps are acceptable
for reasonable range outdoor temperatures.

HID Lamp Specifications

Most metal halide lamps are designed to operate in one of three burning
positions. These are vertical base-up ±15°, horizontal, or vertical base-
down ±15°. The three positions are identified as VBU, H, and VBD
respectively (Figure 24).
Electric Lamps, Part 2 31

FIGURE 24—Operating Positions for a Metal Halide Lamp

Like all the other lamps we’ve discussed, the HID lamps are specified
by ordering codes. Each manufacturer has a brand name; therefore, the
ordering codes vary slightly. For example, the most commonly used HPS
lamps are called Lucalox® by General Electric, Lumalux® by Osram/
Sylvania, and Ceramalux® by Philips. These are all basically the same
type of lamp offered by different manufacturers.
The process of identifying a lamp is the same as that for a fluorescent or
incandescent lamp. The headings in the manufacturer’s catalog are simi-
lar to those for other lamps (Figure 25).
If you don’t know the lamp ordering code for a particular lamp, you can
use the following steps to identify the lamp:

Step 1: Identify the bulb shape. Use the manufacturer’s lamp locators
to assist you (Figure 26).

Step 2: Measure the bulb diameter (in inches) at the widest point.
Multiply this measurement by 8. The result is the number
that accompanies the shape of the bulb.

Step 3: Identify the type of base. Use the manufacturer’s data as a

reference (Figure 27).

Step 4: Find the lamp listed by wattage in the manufacturer’s

catalog (Figure 28).
 32
Enlarge

FIGURE 25—Shown here is a guide to HID ordering codes. (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

Electric Lamps, Part 2

Electric Lamps, Part 2 33

FIGURE 26—A sample lamp-shape locator for metal halide lamps is shown here. (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

FIGURE 27—Several HID Lamp Bases (Courtesy of GE Lighting)

34 Electric Lamps, Part 2

FIGURE 28—A manufacturer’s catalog page for HID lamps is shown here. (Courtesy of GE Lighting)
Electric Lamps, Part 2 35

Now, let’s look at an example problem.

Example: Find the lamp-description ordering code of a lamp with the

following characteristics:

· The wattage is 100 watts.

· The maximum bulb diameter is 2 8 inches. The maximum length

1

is 5 7 16 inches and the shape code is ED, as shown in Figure 29.

· The base is a medium base.

· The outer glass bulb is clear and the arc tube inside is short and
wide.

Solution: Since the arc tube inside the bulb is short and wide, we can
confirm that it’s a metal halide lamp. The diameter of the lamp is 2 1 8
inches. If we multiply 2 1 8 by 8, we get 17. We know the wattage of
the lamp is 100 watts, so we can scan the catalog page in Figure 28 for
metal halide, 100 W, ED 17 lamps with a medium base. Two are found,
but the one is clear and the other is coated. Our lamp is clear, so the
lamp description ordering code is MXR100/U/MED/0.

FIGURE 29—Several HID lamp shapes are shown here. (Courtesy of GE Lighting)
36 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Maintaining HID Lamps

Lamps, ballasts, lampholders, wiring, and a power supply are the
essential parts of HID circuits. The lamps and ballasts usually require
the most service, but all of the hardware should be checked regularly
for best performance and reliability. Regular maintenance is likely to be
neglected because of the extremely long life of HID lamps and because
their location is often in hard-to-reach indoor and outdoor sockets.
Ordinarily, this lack of maintenance has little effect except for the usual
depreciation of light output caused by dirt and aging lamps. Neglecting
maintenance can increase the chance of unexpected failures.

In case of a HID lamp outage, a slightly different checklist from the one
used for incandescent or fluorescent lamp circuits should be followed.
A general check procedure should include the following (in the order
listed):

1. Power supply. Check the branch circuit breaker, luminaire (light

fixture) circuit breaker, connections, and wiring.

2. Ballast. Check the ballast output with a multimeter, or dummy

lamp load. Be sure the ballast isn’t shorted and is operating
properly before replacing the lamp.

3. Lamp. Check the lamp with a portable ballast box or lamp tester.
Inspect the lamp for signs of overcurrent operation (blackened arc
tube, melted internal leads, and so on).
Note that simply replacing a burned-out lamp with a new one is not
suggested. If lamp failure resulted from a shorted ballast, then the new
lamp would also immediately fail, ruining a fairly expensive lamp and
resulting in higher maintenance costs.

Troubleshooting HID Lamps

We’ll now take a look at how you go about troubleshooting an HID
lamp. The following maintenance-check chart will aid you in the main-
tenance of HID lamps and their associated equipment. This chart will be
helpful whether you’re performing routine maintenance or trying to
solve a particular problem.
You’ll need the following equipment to test HID lighting systems:

· True RMS voltmeter with ranges from 0 to 300 to 1000 volts AC

· Clamp-on ammeter

· Multimeter

· Recording multimeter
Electric Lamps, Part 2 37

HID SYSTEM MAINTENANCE-CHECK CHART

Check the specifications:
1. Check to see that the data on the fixture or ballast match the lamp characteristics.
2. Check the ballast specifications to determine the type of environment for which the ballast is designed.
3. Check that the circuit protective devices are adequate; refer to the ballast specifications or literature.
4. Check the ballast against the specifications, using the appropriate meter or special ballast test instruments.
Check physical conditions:
5. Check that the lamp is mounted securely in its socket. Check for corrosion of the socket.
6. Check the cleanliness of the lamp and fixture.
7. Check for loose terminals, connectors, and broken insulation.
8. Check for charred spots caused by overheating and swollen capacitors.
9. Check the lamp position in the fixture. If the position is incorrect, the reflector may focus heat onto the
arc tube, which will seriously affect metal halide lamps and may affect HPS lamps.
Check electrical conditions:
10. Check the line voltage and the ballast voltage to see if they’re within the specifications. If a lamp is slow
starting, check the voltage with the lamp removed. Because of high-voltage pulses, do NOT measure
the ballast output voltage on HPS circuits unless the pulse circuit is removed.
11. Check and compare the voltage at the lamp terminals with other trouble-free lamps on the same
circuit by using an RMS voltmeter. If the voltage is more than 10% greater, the ballast is overdriving the
lamp and must be changed.
12. Check the line voltage input with a recording voltmeter when fluctuations in line voltage may occur.
Lighting loads may need isolation from circuits causing the voltage fluctuations.
13. Check the total circuit current to make sure the circuit isn’t overloaded using a clamp-on ammeter.
14. Check the wiring against the circuit diagrams for correct wiring. Check for continuity of the wiring, if
necessary.
15. Check the photocell if the lamp circuit is photocell controlled. Also, check the time clock or any other
control devices that may govern the on-off condition of the lamp or circuit.
Check color conditions:
16. Check the color rendering of objects being lighted. The objects may need cleaning or repainting.
17. Check the color rendering by substituting a known good lamp for the lamp in question.
18. Check the lamp-fixture combination by substituting other lamp types that are known to be operating
normally.
Check the lamp:
19. Check the specifications to see if the lamp is mounted in the correct orientation. For instance, if a metal
halide lamp is mounted incorrectly, the output will be less and the color will change.
20. Check the lamp for a short lifetime. Check fault numbers 1, 4, 9, 11, and 19 in Table 6 before replacing
the lamp. Indications that a lamp is at or near its end of life are color change with metal halide and
cycling with HPS lamps.
21. Check by substituting a good lamp or by using a special test lamp.
22. In general, if all circuit components are known to be good, replace the lamp.

The checks in the troubleshooting chart can be used to check HID

lighitng systems as part of a maintenance or troubleshooting activity.
Tables 5 and 6 are additional aids to use when a particular problem or
symptom occurs. It may be easier to diagnose a problem by using one or
both of the tables.
38 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Table 5
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART FOR HID LAMPS AND CIRCUITS
Problem Possible Causes Check Remedies
• Lamp starts, 1. Low line voltage 1. Line voltage with voltmeter. 1. If line voltage is below
warms up, Compare against ballast operating voltage, check
then goes out. nameplate rating. branch-circuit voltage at
(This is called panel. If ballast has taps,
cycling.) check that proper tap is
connected. Replace
ballast with one which has
wider input-voltage
tolerance.
2. Wrong lamp type 2. Lamp and ballast types for 2. Replace with proper
compatibility (nameplate lamp.
data)
3. Lamp at end of life 3. Try new lamp (HPS only).
(HPS lamps only)
• Many or all Line-voltage dip, Regulation of power system Improve regulation. Re-
lamps on a or momentary (See whether large electrical arrange circuits. Replace
circuit occa- power interruptions loads—such as motors—are ballasts with units having
sionally go on the same distribution circuit.) greater voltage tolerance,
out. such as CW or CWA types.
Install fast-acting regulator
in lighting circuit.
• Lamp flashes 1. Shorted ballast. 1. Ballast, with special test device, 1. Replace ballast—or just
and immedi- (Don’t try a second or disconnect and check with the faulty component, if
ately burns out lamp without ohmmeter. Follow instructions possible.
when it re- checking this of the ballast manufacturer.
places a possibility!)
failed lamp.
2 Faulty lamp 2. Ballast for a possible short 2. Replace lamp.
• Short ballast 1. Improper lamp 1. Ballast and lamp compatibility 1. Use proper lamp.
life (nameplate data)
2. Excessive ambient 2. Temperature around ballast 2. Improve ventilation.
temperature during system operation. Com- Replace with ballast having
pare with ballast rating. higher temperature limits.
3. High line voltage 3. Voltage. Compare with 3. Reduce system voltage.
nameplate ratings.
4. Ballast connected 4. Circuit against wiring diagram 4. Reconnect.
improperly on nameplate
• Noisy ballast 1. Faulty ballast 1. With manufacturer 1. Replace ballast.
2. Improper 2. Noise rating of ballast against 2. Choose another ballast.
application requirements Work with fixture manufac-
turer on ways to attenuate
noise.
3 Loose ballast or 3. Installation 3. Tighten mounting screws
fixture parts and other hardware.

(Continued)
Electric Lamps, Part 2 39

Table 5—Continued

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART FOR HID LAMPS AND CIRCUITS

Problem Possible Causes Check Remedies
• Stroboscopic pat- This is normal for — Connect fixtures to three-
terns with moving discharge lighting phase power supply. Each
machinery systems; usually fixture must be on an alter-
doesn’t cause nate phase.
problems.
• Burned sockets 1. Lamp loose in 1. For tightness 1. Install lamp securely.
(arcing sockets) socket
2. Dirty or corroded 2. Appearance of socket, 2. Replace socket. Clean socket
socket dirt in fixture and fixture periodically if fixture
operates in dirty atmosphere.
3. Loose wiring 3. Wiring 3. Replace socket. Secure wiring
connections and make tight connections.
• Outer bulb of 1. Moisture striking 1. Area surrounding fixture 1. Replace fixture enclosure.
lamp broken hot lamp for source of moisture Relocate fixture.
2. Improper 2. Lamp and socket 2. Install carefully. Don’t force
installation lamp into socket.
3. Fixture parts press- 3. Lamp and socket 3. Install lamp so that mounting
ing against lamp hardware and especially
metal parts don’t press
tightly against lamp.
Caution: When the outer bulb of HID lamp is broken, the lamp may continue to operate and emit
harmful ultraviolet energy. Turn off power at once if the outer bulb breaks. Don’t expose eyes or
skin to the light from a broken lamp.

Note that Table 6 lists whether a particular problem has a low, medium,
or high probability of occurring as a result of the various causes. For ex-
ample, if short lamp life is a problem, then there’s a high probability that
the problem is caused by an incorrect lamp or ballast. Also, note that the
“check number” in the last column of Table 6 refers to the check number
in the maintenance-check chart and is provided for your convenience as
a cross reference.
 40 Electric Lamps, Part 2

Table 6
HID LAMP LIKELIHOOD OF FAULT
Problems
Lamp Lamp Lamp Lamp Short Circuit Arc Abnormal
Won’t Starts Flickers Output Lamp Fuses Tube Color Check
Fault Start Slowly or Cycles Low Life Blow Blackened Differences Number
1. Lamp loose in socket, or Med. — — — — — — — 5
contact surfaces corroded
2. Incorrect lamp or ballast Low. — Med. Med. High Low High High 1
3. Incorrect or loose wiring Med. — — — — Low — — 7, 14
4. Ballast burned out High — — — — Med. — — 8
5. Line voltage (or ballast output — — MV-Med. — — — MV-Low — 10
voltage) abnormally low Med. High HPS-High High — — HPS-Med. —
— — MH-High — — — MH-Med. —
6. Ballast output voltage (lamp — — MV-Med. — High — MV-Med.* — 11
operating voltage) too high — — HPS-High — High Med. HPS-Low* —
— — MH-High — High — MH-Med.*
7. Photoelectric time-clock High* — — — — — — — 18
control defective
8. Ambient temperature too MV- MV-Low — — — — — — 2
high or low for lamp or ballast Low HPS-Low Low — — — — —
HPS-
Low
MH- MH- — — — — — —
Med. Med.
9. Starter circuit failure (high- High* — — — — — — — 21
pressure sodium lamps only)
10. Lamp off-normal—a hard starter Low Low* — — — — — — 22
11. Lamp at or near end — — MV-Low MV- — — — MV-Med. 20
of life High*
Med. — HPS-High* HPS- — — — —
— — MH-Low Med. — — — MH-High*
MH-
High*
12. Line voltage varies outside of — Med. Med. — — — — — 12
acceptable limits
13. Dirty luminaires — — — High* — — — — 6
14. Ballast partially shorted out High — — — — Med. — MV-Low 4
— — — — Low High High* HPS-Low
— — — — — — — MH-Low*
15. Incorrect lamp-operating — — HPS-Low HPS- HPS- — — —
position — — MH-High Low Low — — MH-High*
MH- MH- 19
High* High*
16. Arc tube temperature too high — — — — — — MV-Low — 9
because of reflected heat — — — — Low* — HPS-Low —
— — — — — — Mh-Med. MH-Med.*
17. Fuses or circuit breakers not — — — — — High* — — 3
matched to ballast
18. Circuit overloaded — — — — — High* — — 13
19. Light distribution pattern of — — — — — — — MV-Low 18
individual luminaries varies — — — — — — — MH-High
20. Surrounding surfaces differ in — — — — — — — Low 16
color
21. Lamp outside limits of color — — — — — — — MV-Low 17
specs — — — — — — — HPS-Low
MH-Med.
MV= mercury vapor; HPS = high-pressure sodium; MH = metal halide; High = high likelihood of occurance; Med = medium
likelihood of occurance; Low = low likelihood of occurance; * Is almost certain to cause a particular problem
Electric Lamps, Part 2 41

Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing

Self-Check 4.

✔ Self-Check 4
1. The abbreviation HPS stands for _______ lamp.
2. True or False? The average lamp life of a discharge lamp is greater than the life of an
incandescent lamp.
3. In HID lamps, the _______ contains a gas (such as, mercury) which operates at very high
temperatures and pressure.
4. Which one of the three main HID lamps may contain a starting electrode within the lamp?
_______
5. True or False? The only benefit of using an electronic ballast with a HID lamp is that the
voltage is more tightly controlled, which enables more consistent color and longer life.
6. How many minutes does it generally take a high-pressure sodium lamp to reach 90 percent
full light output after a power interruption? _______
7. What type of HID lamp would best highlight the colors in outdoor landscaping? _______
8. If many or all lamps on a circuit occasionally go out, what may be the possible cause?
______________________________________________________________________________
Check your answers with those on page 43.
42 Electric Lamps, Part 2

NOTES
 43

Self-Check Answers

1
3
1. True

2. Single pin, medium BiPin, and recessed 1. one-fourth to one-third

double contact
2. compact fluorescent
3. hot cathodes
3. False
4. False
4. Modular
5. rapid start
5. ballast
6. slimline or instant start
6. False
7. rare earth (RE)

8. False 4

1. high-pressure sodium
2
2. True
1. True
3. arc tube
2. four
4. metal halide
3. Electronic
5. True
4. American National Standards Institute
(ANSI) 6. Between one minute and three minutes

5. False 7. A mercury HID lamp

6. 50°F (10°C) 8. A line voltage dip or power interruption

44 Power Check Answers

NOTES
Examination 45

Electric Lamps, Part 2

EXAMINATION NUMBER:

00603200
Whichever method you use in submitting your exam
answers to the school, you must use the number above.
For the quickest test results, go to
http://www.takeexamsonline.com

When you feel confident that you have mastered the material in this study unit, complete the
following examination. Then submit only your answers to the school for grading, using one of
the examination answer options described in your “Test Materials” envelope. Send your answers
for this examination as soon as you complete it. Do not wait until another examination is ready.

Questions 1–25: Select the one best answer for each question.

1. The three types of hot-cathode fluorescent lamps are

A. preheat, slimline, rapid start. C. rapid start, delayed start, preheat.
B. preheat, slow start, fast start. D. rapid start, minute start, ignitor.

2. The metal halide lamp is designed for a specific operating position. Which one of the following is not an
acceptable operating position?
A. Horizontal C. Vertical base up
B. A 45 degree tilt D. Vertical base down

3. If the fluorescent lamp ordering code is F32T8/SP30, what does the 32 stand for?
A. The diameter of the lamp C. The color temperature of the lamp
B. The wattage of the lamp D. The cost of the lamp

4. The most common electrical contact for a standard tubular T12 fluorescent lamp is called a
A. mogul base. C. medium BiPin base.
B. 4-pin base. D. medium skirted base.
46 Examination

5. The mercury lamp has a color characteristic closest to

A. greenish orange. C. bluish white.
B. golden yellowish. D. greenish blue.

6. A typical application for a compact fluorescent lamp would be in a(n)

A. 15-foot high ceiling of a hotel. C. parking lot fixture.
B. recessed downlight of a kitchen. D. industrial fixture of a warehouse.

7. The two main categories of discharge lamps are

A. fluorescent and incandescent. C. mercury and high-intensity discharge.
B. fluorescent and high-intensity discharge. D. mercury and metal halide.

8. Which of the following is not a brand name of a high-pressure sodium lamp?

A. Lucalox® C. Multi Vapor®
B. Lumalux® D. Ceramalux®

9. In the event of an HID lamp outage, which of the following is the correctly ordered checklist for identifying
the problem?
A. Power supply, ballast, lamp C. Lamp, power supply, ballast
B. Lamp, ballast, power supply D. Ballast, lamp, power supply

10. What size diameter is a T-12 fluorescent lamp?

A. ½ inch C. 3 inches
B. 1½ inches D. 6 inches

11. Which of the following is not a high-intensity discharge lamp?

A. Fluorescent C. Metal halide
B. High-pressure sodium D. Mercury

12. Which of the following is not a regularly encountered common color temperature of a fluorescent lamp?
A. 3000 K C. 4100°K
B. 3500 K D. 6200°K

13. Which type of fluorescent lamp is suitable for dimming applications?

A. Preheat C. Rapid start
B. Instant start D. Trigger start

14. Ballasts that are used with fluorescent indoor fixtures and incorporate thermal trip devices are called
A. Class A ballasts C. Class Q ballasts
B. Class P ballasts D. Class T ballasts

15. Which of the following best describes the arc tube for a high-pressure sodium lamp?
A. Short and wide C. Long and wide
B. Short and slender D. Long and slender
Examination 47

16. Which of the following provisions are used to compare ballast quality?
A. Bulb size, power factor, case material
B. Bulb size, case material, coil size
C. Crest factor, power factor, total harmonic distortion
D. Crest factor, filament length, total harmonic distortion

17. The Energy Policy Act prohibits the sale of which of the following in the United States?
A. F32T8/SPX30 C. F40SP35/U/6
B. F32T8/SP35 D. F40T12CW

18. The most energy-efficient light source of the HID family is the
A. high-pressure sodium lamp. C. fluorescent lamp.
B. metal halide lamp. D. mercury lamp.

19. A ballast sound rating of _______ makes the least amount of noise.
A. A C. 1
B. B D. 2

20. If a momentary power interruption should occur with an HPS lamp and the power is turned back on, the
lamp will
A. immediately reach full light output.
B. have to cool down during the restrike period of time.
C. cycle on and off for 30 minutes.
D. blow the tungsten electrode.

21. The average life of a four-foot-long, 32-watt T8 fluorescent lamp is

A. 5000 hours C. 50,000 hours
B. 20,000 hours D. 100,000 hours

22. Which of the following is not a characteristic of an HID arc tube?

A. Operates at very high temperatures C. Contains a gas
B. Operates at very high pressure D. Usually made of copper

23. SP35 is part of the fluorescent lamp ordering code. It means that the lamp has a color temperature of
A. 35 F C. 350°F
B. 35 K D. 3500°K

24. If you have a lamp but don’t know its ordering code, the best place to look to identify the lamp is in
A. the National Electrical Code handbook.
B. the Illuminating Engineering Society Application handbook.
C. the lamp manufacturer’s catalog.
D. the inside of the contact wall.

25. Which of the following is not a characteristic of compact fluorescent lamps?

A. 14 to 13 less energy usage for the same light output obtained from an incandescent
B. Longer life expectancy than from an incandescent
C. Contains either an integral or remote ballast
D. Ability to supply a tight beam of light when mounted on a ceiling that’s over 12 feet high