My_First_Sock
My_First_Sock
Socks are super fun to knit. They are not difficult, but there are
some tricky bits. This is a basic, top-down sock with traditional
heel – with a twist. The garter edge on the heel makes it easier to
pick up stitches. The pattern includes tips for working sock with
Magic Loop, DPNs or Two Circular Needle methods.
Materials:
One Skein Manos del Uruguay “Alegria Grande” (75% Superwash Merino,
25% Polyamide) 218 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), color Cinquenta
Size US 5/3.75mm Circular knitting needles, 32” or longer (or set of 4
DPNs)
2 Erasable Ring Markers
1 Locking Marker
Yarn needle or large embroidery needle
Abbreviations:
Co = Cast on Size: Adult Woman
G = Gram(s)
K = Knit Gauge: 6 sts and 8 rows is 1” in St St
K2tog – Knit two stitches together as if Rnds.
they were one (dec one stitch)
Lh = left hand 8 sts and 8 Rows is 1” in 1x1 Ribbing.
M = Meter(s)
Oz = Ounce(s)
P = Purl
Patt = Pattern
Pu = Pick up Skill Level:
Rep(s) = Repeat(ed)(ing)(s) Advanced Beginner
Rh = Right hand
Sl = Slip stitch purlwise Skills Used: Basic knit
Ssk = Slip next two stitches stitches, working in the
individually knitwise, insert lh needle
into the front of the slipped stitches round, decreases, picking up
and work back needle. (dec 2 sts) stitches, Kitchener
Page 1
St(s) = Stitch(es)
St St = Stockinette Stitch
W/ = With
Yd(s) = Yard(s)
How to work Magic Loop:
The back needle is the needle with the yarn attached to it.
Pull the back needle to the right so the stiches remain on the cable. Bring the
needle forward to work with it – you should have roughly equal amounts of cable on
each side so it looks a bit like Dumbo’s ears.
Work across the stitches on the front needle. Turn your work and repeat.
Cast on all stitches. Slide them to the middleish if the cable, fold the cable
and pull the cable out between the middle two stitches.
You know you have completed a round when the working yarn and tail are on the
same side.
Do not hold your finger in between the needles!
Tighten the second stitch on each needle to reduce ladder (not the first).
Always move the stitches on the front needle up before pulling the back needle
out.
Always make sure the yarn is coming directly from the last stitch on the back
needle and never over the cable – this will add a stitch and a hole.
Assign the sharpest point needle to the back and the other needle to the front. The
back needle works the heel and sole and the front needle works the instep or top.
Cast on all stitches to the front needle then pass half the sts to the back
needle. The yarn tail will be on the back needle.
You will always work the same needle to same needle – Karbonz to Karbonz and
ChiaoGoo to ChiaoGoo.
The working yarn will always come from the back needle and you will knit the
front needle.
You know you have completed a round when the working yarn and tail are on the
same side.
Tighten the second stitch on each needle to reduce ladders (not the first).
Always make sure the yarn is coming directly from the last stitch on the back
needle and never over the cable – this will add a stitch and a hole.
Tighten the second stitch on each needle to reduce ladders (not the first).
Directions: Click here for a video on how to work
Using Old Norwegian Co, Co 44 sts. Divide The Old Norwegian Cast On.
the stitches between needles so half belong
to the front needle and half to the back needle(s).
Cuff:
Rnd 1: (K1, p1) rep to end of rnd.
Rep Rnd 1 fourteen times or desired height. (If you make longer socks you may need a
second skein.)
Heel Flap: After Set up Rown, the Heel is worked over back sts only.
Set Up: K the front sts.
Row 1: P3,(k1, s1) rep to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2: P.
Work Rows 1 & 2 a total of 10 times.
Heel Turn:
Row 1: Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1, turn (6 sts unworked)
Row 2: Sl 1, p5 sts, p2tog, p1, turn (6 sts unworked)
Row 3: Sl 1, k6 ssk, k1, turn, (4 sts unworked)
Row 4: Sl 1, p7 p2tog, p1, turn, (4 sts unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k8 ssk, k1, turn (2 sts unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn (2 sts unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k10 ssk, k1, turn (0 sts unworked)
Row 8: Sl 1, p11 p2tog, p1, turn (0 sts unworked) (14 sts)
Gusset Decreases:
Rnd 1:
Front sts: K22
Back sts: K1, ssk, k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1. (34 sts)
Rnd 2: K.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 until 22 sts rem on back needle.
Foot:
Work foot in st st until foot measures approximately 2” shorter than desired
length.
Page 3
Toe Decreases:
Rnd 1: Front Needle: K1, ssk, k to 3 sts from end of front sts, k2tog, k1.
Back Needle: K1, ssk, k to 3 sts from end of front sts, k2tog, k1.
Rnd 2: K.
Rep Rends 1 & 2 until 24 sts rem (12 per needle).
Rep Rnd 1 until 12 sts rem (6 per needle).
Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail and thread on darning needle. Using the instructions
below to graft the toe closed.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and block. Page 4
No material in this pattern, partial or whole, may be reproduced or transmitted by any means without express written
permission of designer. Every effort has been made to ensure that this pattern is accurate and complete. However, I
cannot be responsible for differences of individual knitters, human or typographical errors. Please direct any questions or
comments to: [email protected]