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Sustainable Development
and Communication in
Global Food Networks
Lessons From India
Maria Touri
Sustainable Development and Communication
in Global Food Networks
Maria Touri
Sustainable
Development and
Communication in
Global Food
Networks
Lessons From India
Maria Touri
School of Media, Communication and Sociology
University of Leicester
Leicester, UK
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature
Switzerland AG.
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
Acknowledgements
First and foremost, I would like to thank all the farmers and staff from
Organic Wayanad, who facilitated and participated in this research through
several rounds of focus groups and interviews. They are the reason for
turning what started as a modest experiment in my academic career to an
inspiring and, hopefully, long-term project. Enormous credit is owed to
P.J. Chackochan and K.M. George. Not only have they granted me access
to the farmers’ cooperative, they have also created a welcoming space for
ongoing and inspiring dialogue and have shared their precious knowledge
throughout the writing of this book. Their willingness to give their time
so generously is greatly appreciated. I am also indebted to Anith
Puthiyankath and Jörg Volkmann for providing invaluable support with
the organization of the data collection, for giving me access and insight
into the workings of small food businesses and for our many valuable
debates on issues concerning food, sustainability and communication. I
am particularly grateful to Jennifer Smith Maguire for being a mentor and
critical friend from the very early stages of this project, and to Kelly Touri
for offering much-needed moral support during the challenging phases of
this work. I also wish to acknowledge the academic community in the
Participatory Communication Research Section of the International
Association for Media and Communication Research (IAMCR) for the
helpful conversations and critical feedback. Last but not least, a special
mention must go to the University of Leicester and the School of Media,
Communication and Sociology for believing in this work and for
v
vi Acknowledgements
providing financial support and a home for conducting the research. The
work presented in this book has received funding from the British Academy
Small Research Grants and from the University of Leicester College
Research Fund and Impact Development Fund.
Contents
1 Introduction 1
Index233
vii
List of Images
ix
CHAPTER 1
Introduction
required knowledge and resources that will enable them to reflect on what
they value, set goals, and pursue these goals (Oosterlaken 2015: 5).
Although one cannot ignore these limitations, the capability approach
raises important questions about development and empowerment as it
moves beyond economic indicators as the measure of improvement.
Instead, development is approached as a process of expanding the real
freedoms that people enjoy and the things they are able to do. Through
elements such as functionings, capabilities, and agency, it draws attention
to the need for a deeper understanding of the different aspects of empow-
erment that underpin human development.
Given its material and social importance, food beckons as an entry point to
questions of sustainability that involve joining environmental and socio-
economic concerns. (Hinrichs 2010: 19)
(Forssell and Lankoski 2015: 63). Alternative Food Networks will be dis-
cussed in Chap. 2. At this point, suffice it to say that the contribution of
AFNs in the dominant sustainability discourses and in the conception and
development of the UN’s SDGs is primarily framed around environmental
considerations, food security, and hunger eradication (see FAO 2019),
and around the expectation that sustainable food systems should become
more environmentally sound and economically viable for a larger percent-
age of community members (Feenstra 2002: 100 in Hinrichs 2010: 20).
Their sustainability promises are premised on the adaptation and promo-
tion of environmentally benign farming practices, such as organic farming,
value addition from differentiated and artisan production methods, as well
as on the reduction of ‘food miles’ (Renting et al. 2003; Marsden et al.
2000; Schonhart et al. 2009). The reduced physical distance that certain
types of AFNs are associated with, such as Community Supported
Agriculture (CSA) and farmers’ markets, has been at the heart of localisa-
tion arguments that champion localism and local-scale food networks as
inherently more beneficial for ecological sustainability, food security, and
social justice than globally extended networks. Such arguments are predi-
cated on the assumption that local food systems of production and con-
sumption will yield economic, environmental, and social benefits for
communities, while the notion of ‘community’ is also defined in terms of
locality, ignoring the fact that communities can exist at all scales (Born and
Purcell 2006). Underlying these discussions is the idea of the conflation of
global agriculture with capitalist food systems. In this case, local networks
are championed as spaces of resistance against the growing industrialisa-
tion of the food system (Kaufman 2004, 338).
Such arguments and dualisms have already been contested, with schol-
ars advocating for recognition of the significance of interdependencies
between local and global food networks for sustainable development
(Goodman et al. 2014; Kneafsey et al. 2008). This book contributes to
this body of work by adding a communication perspective and unearthing
the critical role played by relations and communication practices in global
food networks and why these matter for sustainable development. Food
production and consumption enfold multiple socio-material processes and
vibrant social worlds that create opportunities for unpredictable social
change and development and that need to be considered and understood
better (Preiss et al., 2017; Ofstehage 2017). More importantly, food is
produced through an array of human relations and social networks that
are crucial for sustainable development and that also provide an entry to
12 M. TOURI
two-fold manner. On the one hand, it seeks to highlight the need for com-
munication to be prioritised by and placed centrally in the work of scholars
in the social and natural science disciplines. On the other hand, it aims to
draw the attention of communication scholars and practitioners to the
development opportunities that reside in communication practices that
happen organically, such as in the structures of the global food market. It
is by engaging with such communication practices further that the field of
communication can contribute to development discourses beyond com-
munication studies.
2016). Among those factors are the meaningful land reforms, access to
primary and preventative healthcare, promotion of education and literacy,
especially among women, efforts to reduce social and income inequalities,
and public action and mobilisation of peasant farmers and agricultural and
industrial workers (Parayil and Sreekumar 2003). A particularly significant
factor was the open and cosmopolitan outlook of Kerala that resulted from
its rich history of trade relations and cultural links with the rest of the
world, especially as a spice exporter, since as early as 3000 BCE
(Chattopadhyay and Franke 2006). Although Vasco da Gama’s arrival at
Calicut paved the way for the domination of the Portuguese over the spice
trade and for Western colonialism in the sixteenth century, this era also
established Kerala’s full integration into Western capitalism and the global
food economy (Sreekumar 1993). Currently, Kerala continues to play a
key role in the country’s export business with more than 80 per cent of the
state’s agricultural products being exported (El Khoury 2016: 303).
But while trade has been one of the key drivers in Kerala’s develop-
ment, it also proved to be the source of adversity for the state, especially
following trade liberalisation and WTO policies that led to a sharp decline
in the prices of agricultural products. This was coupled with high price
instability leading to loss of income and high unemployment rates (Joseph
and Joseph 2005; Shiva 2001; Vasavi 1999). Kerala’s traditional exports
became subjected to the volatility of global markets, and the situation
deteriorated further in 2001 with the removal of quantitative restrictions
(QRs) on 714 mostly agricultural imports, the lowering of tariff levels,
and the fierce competition for exports in the international market (Jeromi
2007; Joseph and Joseph 2005; Palackal 2019). During the 1980s and
1990s, the Indian government’s fiscal crisis meant that along with the
decline in agricultural output, Kerala’s manufacturing sector also slowed
(Thottathil 2014).
Kerala’s agrarian crisis was inevitable given the state’s dependence on
the world market (Mohanakumar and Sharma 2006). At the same time,
the crisis encouraged an ecological countermovement. This was to battle
the damaging consequences of the practices dictated by industrial and
commoditised agriculture, such as mechanization, mono-cropping, and
excessive use of chemical fertilisers, that transformed agriculture into a
cash crop–based business (Palackal 2019; Thottathil 2014). The counter-
movement was instigated by the Kerala government, and in a policy docu-
ment released by the Biodiversity Board and Kerala’s Agriculture
Department in 2010, the government introduced a strategy for the
18 M. TOURI
1
http://vanamoolika.org/organic-wayanad
20 M. TOURI
A Note on Gender
Although gender power relations have not been at the heart of this book,
a note on the role of women in the agricultural sector of Kerala, and spe-
cifically in the villages of Wayanad where the data has been collected from,
is paramount. A trend that is worth noting and was also present in the
farming community that took part in this research concerns the fact that
women’s presence has been more visible in their role as housewives rather
than as farmers. This is despite their unquestionable contribution to farm-
ing activities that range from cultivation to marketing (Kodoth 2004).
1 INTRODUCTION 21
One explanation is found in the changing cropping pattern and the grow-
ing size of the farms. It has been reported that the move from subsistence
farming to cash crops has driven more women into domestic work, while
women in households with larger farms are also less involved in farming
(Arun 2012). At the same time, household dynamics and women’s head-
ship mean that women continue to be involved in the maintenance of the
farms and in economic decisions that concern the household and the farm.
This is especially when their husbands take office jobs that keep them away
for long hours (Arun 2012). In Wayanad, women work mostly as co-
farmers and their critical role in the running of the farms was acknowl-
edged by their husbands. However, during the fieldwork, very few women
agreed to take part in the discussions, which is a typical challenge when
conducting research in patriarchal societies (Momsen 2006). Without dis-
missing or downplaying the significance of women’s knowledge and expe-
rience, their underrepresentation in this project should be seen in the
context of the broader limitations of any study that focuses on a narrow
case of investigation, especially in complex local landscapes such as India.
Hence, in this study, women’s knowledge is underrepresented in a similar
way that the knowledge and experience of other farming communities and
tribes has also been excluded. The empirical evidence presented in this
book is by no means generalisable, and the aim of this work was to offer
initial insights in sustainable development through a communication per-
spective rather than draw conclusive inferences.
the participants. This changed the nature of the research to more interac-
tive, collaborative, and participatory as the voice of the participants became
embedded in the design of the research process. Hence, without negating
or undermining the existence of a certain degree of researcher bias, this is
mitigated by the valuable knowledge and experience that participants
brought into this process. At the same time, it is this collaborative and
participatory nature that turned this research from an attempt to observe
and understand relations and communication processes to a project that
facilitated social and economic change in the farming community that
took part in this project. In this case, the participatory and community-
based approach enabled the connection of different scales in the food net-
work, from the farming community to the local society and the
global market.
The organic way the research developed allows for a chronological
description of the different methodological steps that were taken for the
completion of this project. Hence, the point of departure was the inquiry
into the interpersonal communication that is embedded in trade relations
and connects farmers with the foreign buyers that facilitate the farmers’
entry into the global food market. The emphasis on interpersonal com-
munication as a form of communication that supports the structures of
food networks but remains invisible was driven by the need to create a
pathway to a more nuanced understanding of the multifaceted nature of
sustainable development through a people-centred approach and through
the voices and the perceptions of the people that were most affected, that
is, the farming communities. This part of the inquiry consisted of focus
groups with farmers in Wayanad and five of their buyers in Europe and
North America. The choice of a qualitative research method was the most
appropriate for achieving a more holistic understanding of the communi-
cation process and for capturing the underlying meanings and issues that
matter to the participants.
The first focus groups with the farmers took place in February 2014
and involved 30 participants. They were combined with individual inter-
views with the Chairman of IOFPCL at the time and the Coordinator of
Organic Wayanad. The interview process was facilitated by a local inter-
preter. The buyers were interviewed between August 2014 and January
2015. Four of the interviews were conducted on Skype and one in person
in the UK. Four of those buyers are small-medium enterprises, wholesal-
ers, and retailers, while one of them is a bigger alternative trading
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