Guidelines for conducting testing

color fastness to light

When in use, textiles are usually exposed to light. Light often degrades coloring
agents, leading to the common defect known as "fading," where colored
materials typically become lighter and duller over time. So it is obvious that there
must be some method of measuring their fastness.

Guidelines for conducting testing

Preparation of test specimens

The size of the test specimen will be determined by the number of samples to be
tested and the shape and dimensions of the specimen holders provided with the
apparatus.

The specimen may consist of a strip of cloth, yarn wound closely together on a
sample mounting card or arranged parallel and secured to the card, or a mat of
fibers that are combed and compressed to form a uniform surface and attached
to the card.

To simplify handling, the test specimen(s) and corresponding reference strips can
be mounted on one or more cards.

The covers should make firm contact with the surface of the unexposed areas of
the specimens and references to create a clear boundary between the exposed
and unexposed areas, without applying unnecessary pressure on the specimen.

The test specimens and blue wool references should be of the same size and
shape to avoid assessment errors, such as overrating the visual contrast between
the exposed and unexposed areas, especially when comparing a larger pattern
with a narrower reference.
When testing specimens of significant thickness, the references must be
positioned at the same distance from the light source as the upper surface of the
test specimens. Covers for the unexposed areas must prevent any surface
compression of the specimens.

Textiles of significant thickness, whose fibers may shift in position or texture,

making the evaluation of small areas challenging, should be tested with an
exposed area of at least 50mm × 40mm, preferably larger.

Mounting of test specimens

The mounting of test specimens, whether reference materials or other textiles,

can affect the quality of the results. Ideally, all samples on a test card should have
a uniform thickness. Mixing thick and thin samples or samples with variable
thickness is not recommended, as it can complicate the use of opaque covers and
hinder the clear distinction between exposed and unexposed areas.

The mounting method should be appropriate to the textile being tested. For most
fabrics, metal staples are appropriate, though copper staples should be avoided
due to their ability to conduct heat absorbed from the light source. Alternatively,
adhesive tape may be used, as long as it is not exposed to the light source and the
adhesive does not migrate or otherwise affect the sample being tested. For this
reason, double-sided adhesive tape is generally not recommended for most
samples.

For samples made of loose fiber, sliver, roving, or tops, it is recommended to

brush the fibers to align them, forming a loose pad of adequate thickness and
density to ensure a uniform and solid color across the entire width of the test
card. Mounting staple fiber samples with metal staples can be challenging, and in
such instances, double-sided adhesive or spray adhesive may be the only suitable
alternative. In such cases, it is important to ensure that the sample remains
securely attached to the test card throughout the test, without changing which
fibers on the uppermost surface are exposed to the light source.

Yarns are easier to mount than fibers but more challenging than fabrics. The
simplest methods for mounting yarns are either to wrap the yarn around a card to
create a dense, parallel winding or to lay several lengths of yarn parallel on the
test card, securing them with metal staples or adhesive tape on the back of the
card.

For most fabrics with a relatively flat surface, the recommended mounting
method is using non-copper metal staples. Alternatively, the test specimen can be
widened and wrapped around the edge of the test card, securing it with adhesive
tape on the back of the card.

Three-dimensional fabrics, such as chenille, brushed or raised fabrics like fleeces,

pile fabrics, and figured jacquard fabrics, present specific challenges. For fabrics
with irregular or uneven thickness, such as fleece, chenille, or embossed fabrics,
there is no easy solution. When selecting opaque masks, it is important to avoid
compressing the fabric surface while ensuring a clear distinction between the
exposed and unexposed areas of the test specimen.

For pile fabrics, it is crucial to avoid compression, as this also requires maintaining
the pile's orientation to match that of the unexposed area of the test specimen.

For fabrics with uneven surfaces, such as figured jacquard or certain pile fabrics
with ground and patterned areas, it is advisable to test each area separately using
different test cards to prevent mixing samples of varying thickness on the same
card. Alternatively, a larger test specimen can be used, exposing it to the light
source without an opaque mask. When assessing the contrast, the exposed test
specimen can be placed back into the original fabric from which it was taken.

One disadvantage of this alternative procedure is the need for larger quantities of
substrate and the need to expose multiple test specimens, if it is necessary to
preserve the visual evidence of exposure after the test is completed.

Multi-colored materials or materials with a very detailed or small design such as

many printed textiles may also present particular problems. In particular, ensuring
that the same portion of the design appears in both the exposed and unexposed
areas is a key challenge. Similarly, for multi-colored samples, it is important to
ensure that all the different colors are tested, which may require using multiple
test specimens.
For all types of textiles, while mounting the test cards into specimen holders is
not always required, it is necessary for certain types of testing machines. When
specimen holders are used, they should be suitable for the type of textile being
tested. It is important to ensure that the distance between the surface of the test
specimens and the light source is the same as that between the surface of the
blue wool references or other reference materials and the light source.

Selecting the most appropriate method

The selection of one of the five methods outlined in this standard may depend on
various factors, such as the type of apparatus used, the testing volume, and the
specific information needed from the test.

Method 1 offers the most detailed information for individual textiles but requires
a full set of blue wool references on the test card for each test specimen. This test
method may be the most suitable when the textile's behavior under light
exposure is unknown, and there is no specified target performance requirement.

For example, a textile manufacturer is producing a new textile and has no

information about how it might behave when exposed to light. As the textile may
be suitable for many different end-uses, there are no specific performance
requirements, and the manufacturer needs to determine its resistance to light
exposure.

Using Method 1 enables the manufacturer to identify the textile's maximum light
fastness under the specified test conditions.

In contrast to Method 1, Method 2 is more appropriate when testing a large

number of textiles, especially when the behavior of all of them is unknown. Unlike
Method 1, Method 2 only requires only one full set of blue wool references per
machine run, which can be used for multiple test specimens. This method is
particularly suited for situations like a dye-house, where multiple batches of the
same color are tested at the same time to compare their light fastness and ensure
consistency in performance. For example, a dye-house may have a large order to
complete, but the dyeing process involves small batches. How can the dye-house
ensure that the light fastness of each batch matches the consistency of the other
batches in the order?

Method 2 allows a test specimen from each batch to be tested at the same time
using a single set of blue wool references. Method 2 allows determining the
maximum light fastness of the dyeing, also providing easy visual comparison
between different dye batches. Any batch that differs from the other dye batches
will be easily identified, allowing it to be rejected or reworked (re-dyed) as
necessary.

Methods 3 involve comparing the test specimens against either a known blue
wool reference or another reference material. Method 3 is typically used when
the laboratory already knows the expected performance of the textile. For
Method 3, if a sample needs to achieve a performance at least equal to that of
blue wool reference 4, it is sufficient to include blue wool reference 4 along with
blue wool references 3 and 2 on the test card, along with one or more test
specimens. Unlike Method 1, the test continues until the target blue wool
reference shows the required contrasts, and the test specimens are then assessed
by comparing them to the target blue wool reference. This means that if the test
specimen has faded less than the target blue wool reference, a result of "Better
than 4" may be recorded, using the example provided. The inclusion of the two
lower blue wool references is based on common laboratory practice and the
requests of many customers who wish to know the extent to which the test
specimen may fall short of meeting the target performance. If the test specimen
shows a greater contrast than blue wool reference 4, the inclusion of blue wool
references 2 and 3 on the test card allows the laboratory to provide a more
detailed result. In the above example, the laboratory may be able to specify that
the test specimen was only slightly worse, for instance, at 3-4, or significantly
worse at 2.

Method 4 replaces blue wool references with another reference fabric. This might
be a master dye batch or a previous production run or even a competitor’s fabric.
The test specimen is compared to this reference but it is only possible to state
“better than”, “worse than” or “equal to”. However some laboratories may still
choose to include blue wool references as well as the reference material so that
they are also able to provide additional information about the light fastness of the
test specimen.

Method 5 differs from Methods 1 to 4 as it does not require the use of any
reference material. Method 5 is based on controlling the irradiance (dosage of
light) to which the test specimen is exposed. However, many laboratories choose
to include blue wool references to enhance the amount of information gathered
from this test method. When applying Method 5, it is essential for the laboratory
to clearly define how the results will be reported, as the exposure is determined
by controlled irradiance rather than the contrast observed on the test specimen
or reference material.

Inspection during testing

All methods, except for Method 5, depend on periodic inspection of the test cards
to identify when the specified contrast points have been achieved. It is not
possible to provide definitive guidelines on the frequency of inspection, as it
depends on factors such as the specific machine, laboratory conditions, and the
use of the test apparatus. However, data from ring trials (repeatability and
reproducibility studies) suggest that for samples expected to have low light
fastness (below blue wool reference 2), more frequent inspections are necessary.
In such cases, intervals as short as 1 hour may be required to prevent over-
exposure of the test specimens or reference materials.

For textiles expected to have a light fastness greater than blue wool reference 4,
inspection intervals of 24 hours may be used initially, gradually shortening as the
test approaches its endpoint. Laboratories may base their decision on a suitable
inspection interval on previous experience with similar textiles. Many laboratories
do not operate 24 hours a day or on weekends, so a sample nearing its endpoint
should not be left exposed in the apparatus without arrangements for periodic
inspection. This may require removing test cards from the apparatus overnight or
over the weekend to prevent over-exposure. Where this practice is used, it is
strongly advised that the test cards are placed in a darkened environment such as
a dark room or an opaque container to avoid uncontrolled exposure to ambient
daylight through windows or other light sources such as indoor electric lighting.

Good laboratory practice suggests that it is preferable to inspect a sample more

frequently to ensure that the different contrast phases are detected, rather than
inspecting too infrequently and risking over-exposure of the test specimens,
which would require the test to be repeated.

Assessment of color fastness

To ensure accurate color fastness ratings and minimize the effects of

photochromism, the tested specimen cards should be conditioned in the dark
under ambient indoor conditions for at least 24 hours before assessment.

The final assessment, reported as a numerical grade, is determined by the

contrasts equivalent to grey scale grades 4 and 3 between the exposed and
unexposed areas of the test specimen.

For white textiles, whether bleached or optically brightened, the final numerical
assessment is based on the contrast equivalent to grey scale grade 4 between the
exposed and unexposed areas of the test specimen or reference material.

Remove all the covers to expose the test specimens and references, revealing the
areas subjected to different exposure durations, based on the method used, as
well as the area that was not exposed to light. To compare the changes in the test
specimen with those in the blue wool references, a mask shall be used to
surround the specimen.

Compare the color change of the specimen with the corresponding changes in the
references using the assessment cabinet with D65 (artificial daylight) illuminant.
The use of any alternative illuminants must be agreed upon by both parties and
documented.

For all methods using blue wool references, the color fastness of the specimen is
determined by the number of the blue wool reference that exhibits similar color
changes, based on the visual contrast between the exposed and unexposed areas
of the specimen.

If the specimen shows color changes that are close to the midpoint between two
consecutive blue wool references, an intermediate rating, such as 3–4 or L2–L3,
shall be given. Assessments will be restricted to whole or midway ratings only.

Color change assessments are made at the contrast points as specified in the
relevant method. For Methods 1, 3, and 4, two assessments will be made; for
Method 2, up to three assessments; and for Method 5, a single assessment.

The color fastness of the test specimen is determined by the individual

assessment for Method 5 or the average of the individual assessments for
Methods 1 to 4. If the arithmetic mean of the assessments does not correspond
to a whole or half grade, the result is rounded up to the nearest half or whole
grade.

If the assessment of the specimen is worse than that of blue wool reference 1 (or
L2) a rating of “less than 1” (or “less than L2”) is given.

For Method 1 and Method 2, if the color fastness is 4 or higher, or L3 or higher;

any preliminary assessment becomes relevant. If the preliminary assessment is 3
or L2, it should be included in the rating in brackets. For example, a rating of 6(3)
means the specimen changes very slightly when reference 3 begins to fade, but
with continued exposure, the light resistance becomes equivalent to that of
reference 6.

If the specimen is photochromic, the color fastness rating shall include a "P" in
brackets alongside the rating obtained from the photochromism test, for
example, 6(P3–4).

The term “change in color” includes change in hue, chroma, lightness, or any
combination of these characteristics of color.

Exposures based on a performance specification (see Method 3) shall be

evaluated by comparing the color change of the test specimen with the target
blue wool reference. If the specimen exhibits no more significant color change
than the target blue wool reference, the color fastness will be evaluated,
calculated, and classified as "satisfactory." If the specimen exhibits a greater color
change than the target blue wool reference, the color fastness will be evaluated,
calculated, and classified as "unsatisfactory."

If the specimen shows a greater color change than the lowest numbered blue
wool reference used, the color fastness will be reported as "less than" that
numbered blue wool reference, followed by the classification "unsatisfactory."

Exposures based on an agreed-upon reference sample (see Method 4) shall be

evaluated by comparing the color change of the test specimen with that of the
reference sample. Since blue wool references are not used, the color fastness
cannot be quantified. If the specimen shows no greater color change than the
reference sample, the color fastness shall be classified as "satisfactory." If the
specimen shows a greater color change than the reference sample, the color
fastness shall be classified as "unsatisfactory."

Exposures based on an agreed-upon radiant energy level (see Method 5) are

evaluated either by numerical quantification using the grey scale to assess color
change, or by comparing the color change of the sample with that of the blue
wool references.

Assessment related issues

It is generally recommended to involve at least two persons (trained assessors)

when evaluating color fastness, ensuring that each assessment is verified by a
second individual. In case of disagreement, additional trained assessors may be
consulted, and the final result is determined based on the mode of assessments
at each contrast point.

When multiple assessors are involved within a laboratory, it is essential for them
to periodically take part in inter-laboratory correlation exercises to verify that
their assessments fall within the acceptable limits of measurement uncertainty.
For color fastness tests based on the subjective assessment of color change, the
within-laboratory uncertainty of measurement is generally accepted as ± 0.5
grade.

Although instrumental assessment is permitted, it is not recommended for

several reasons. Primarily, the use of instrumental assessment is discouraged due
to known anomalies in color measurement equations, particularly in the blue
region of the spectrum.

Test report

The test report must include the required information

1) The number and publication year of this part of ISO 105 (e.g., ISO 105-
B02:2014).

2) All relevant details required to identify the tested specimens.

3) For Methods 1 and 2: Provide the numerical rating for the color fastness to
light. The color fastness rating should be expressed in one of the following ways:

a) As the numerical mean of the individual assessments, provided the difference

between the individual assessments does not exceed half a grade (accompanied
by the prefix "L" when using blue wool references labeled L2 to L9).

b) By reporting the individual assessments along with the corresponding grey

scale grade when the difference between the assessments exceeds half a grade
(together with the prefix L when using the blue wool references designated L2 to
L9).

If the rating is 4 or higher, or L3 or higher, and the preliminary assessment is 3 or

lower, or L2 or lower, report the preliminary figure in brackets.

4) For Method 3: Provide the numerical rating for the color fastness to light. The
color fastness rating should be expressed in one of the following ways:
a) By the numerical mean of the individual assessments, as long as the difference
between them does not exceed half a grade, and with the prefix "L" used when
referring to blue wool references labeled L2 to L9.

b) By reporting the individual assessments along with the corresponding grey

scale grade when the difference between the assessments exceeds half a grade;
and including the prefix "L" when using blue wool references from L2 to L9.

If necessary, report the classification as "satisfactory" or "unsatisfactory," along

with the performance reference or the reference sample used.

5) For Method 4: If necessary, report the classification as "satisfactory" or

"unsatisfactory," along with the performance reference or the reference sample
used.

6) For Method 5: Report the numerical rating for color fastness to light, along with
the specified amount of radiant energy. The rating should be expressed in one of
the following ways:

a) By the figure alone (together with the prefix L when using the blue wool
references designated L2 to L9); or

b) If no blue wool references are used, the color change rating should be assessed
through comparison with the grey scale or by color measurement, preceded by
the text "grey scale grade."

6) If the specimen exhibits photochromism, the color fastness rating shall be

followed by a "P" in brackets, along with the grey scale rating obtained from the
photochromism test, for example, 6(P3–4).

7) If the assessment of color change in a test specimen includes significant

changes in hue and chroma, appropriate descriptors must be included alongside
the numerical rating.

8) For all test methods report:

a) The apparatus used,

b) The method (8.3),

c) The exposure conditions (Table 2),

d) The specified amount of radiant energy, if applicable,

e) Whether or not flip-flop mode was used,

f) The illuminant used for assessment if not D65,

g) Any deviations from this test method.

Factors which have effect on color fastness to light

Dyestuff selection:

The selection of dyes is crucial in determining their light fastness. Natural dyes are
the least resistant to light, while reactive dyes offer moderate resistance. In
contrast, vat dyes exhibit good resistance to light.

Dyes with larger particle sizes, such as indigo, tend to show better resistance to
fading. Additionally, dyes with strong aggregation properties demonstrate
enhanced resistance to UV light, as their molecular structure is more stable under
light exposure.

The chemical structure of dyestuffs plays a critical role, as their resistance to

photochemical degradation is directly determined by their molecular
composition.

Metal complex dyes show better resistance to fading than acid dyes as the metal
can absorb UV energy and transforms into heat energy.

Depth of shade

Darker shades of dye show good resistance to light, whereas the lighter shades
show poor resistance to light.
The electron mobility of lighter shade dyes is high and so the electrons can easily
move to the exited state causing breakage in the chromophoric system of the dye
which results in fading.

But due to presence of large number of dye molecules in dark shades, only very
few dye molecules involve in fading and rest of the dye helps in maintaining the
depth of shade.

Light fastness result of a reactive red color in different shade percentage

Shade% Blue Wool rating

Reactive Red 0.5% 3
1.0% 3-4
2.0% 4
3.0% 4-5
4.0% 5

Amount of unfixed dyes

In cotton materials, reactive dyes form covalent bonds with the cellulose fibers,
ensuring that the dye particles are securely fixed to the fiber. This strong
attachment contributes to good resistance to UV light, as the dye molecules are
less likely to degrade or fade. However, dyes that are not properly fixed to the
fiber have poor resistance to UV light and are more prone to fading.

In synthetic fibers like polyester and polyamide, the situation is different. Unfixed
dyes, which do not form strong bonds with the fiber, are more susceptible to UV
light. These unfixed dyes are more easily degraded by UV exposure, leading to
fading and poor color fastness. Proper fixation of the dye is essential in these
fibers to improve resistance to UV light and ensure better color retention.

Material

It is essential to consider the fiber's characteristics when assessing light fastness,

as the light fastness of the same dye can vary significantly depending on the fiber
it is applied to.
For example, disperse dyed polyester fibers show better resistance to light than
disperse dyed polyamide fibers. This is because each type of fiber reacts
differently when exposed to UV light. Polyester and polyamide fibers have a
natural resistance to UV degradation due to the presence of delustering agents,
such as titanium dioxide (TiO₂), which absorb UV light and help prevent the
photochemical damage that leads to fading.

Wool is also a good absorber of UV light, which helps protect it from UV-induced
degradation. However, fibers like cotton and silk are more susceptible to UV light.
These fibers allow UV light to pass through, causing photodegradation processes
such as photo-tendering and photo-oxidation, which weaken the fiber and lead to
fading and structural damage over time.

After treatment with chemical auxiliary

Residual substances such as size and other chemical auxiliaries, like thickeners,
can affect light fastness. Optical brightening agents (OBAs), which are used to
enhance brightness, show poor resistance to UV light as they are easily damaged
by it. Additionally, formaldehyde-containing cationic fixing agents also exhibit
poor light fastness, as they are more susceptible to degradation under light
exposure.

Environmental conditions

Moisture content and heat are two key environmental factors that influence light
fastness. When UV light is present, moisture reacts with atmospheric oxygen to
form hydrogen peroxide and other reactive radicals. These active agents can
degrade the fiber over time. Fibers show poor resistance to light exposure when
subjected to high levels of moisture and heat, as the combination accelerates the
degradation process.

How to Improve the Color Fastness to Light of Textiles?

Select the dye according to the fiber properties and textile uses:

 For cellulose fiber textiles, choose dyes with better oxidation resistance.
 For protein fibers, select dyes with good anti-reducing properties or weakly
oxidizing additives.
 For other fibers, choose dyes based on their effect on fading.

Select the Dyes According to the Color Depth

The color fastness of reactive dye on cellulose fiber is directly proportional to the
depth of the color; in other words, the darker the color, the better the light color
fastness.

For dyeing light-colored fabrics, it is important to select dyes with stable light
fastness. Additionally, the use of finishing agents, such as softeners and anti-
wrinkle agents can reduce the light fastness of the product. Therefore, fabrics
treated with such agents should be dyed with dyes that are less sensitive to the
effects of these finishing agents.

The fading properties of different dyes are different, and even the principle of
photo fading is different. Sometimes, the presence of one dye sensitizes the
fading of another dye. When the color is the combination, we should choose dyes
that will not sensitize each other, or even improve the light stability, which is
particularly important when dyeing dark varieties such as black.

If one of the three primary colors fades too quickly, it will cause the dyed fiber or
fabric to change color. Additionally, the faded dye residue can negatively affect
the light stability of the other two dyes, further compromising the overall color
fastness.