Tenzing_Norgay
Tenzing_Norgay
Early life
There are conflicting accounts of Tenzing's early life.
In his autobiography, he wrote that he was a Sherpa
born and raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in
northeastern Nepal.[6] In a 1985 interview with All
India Radio, he said his parents came from Tibet, but Norgay in Stockholm, 1967
that he was born in Nepal.[7] According to many later Personal information
accounts, including a book co-written by his son
Birth name Namgyal Wangdi
Jamling Tenzin Norgay, he was born in Tibet,[8][9] at
Tse Chu in the Kama Valley, and grew up in Main Mountaineer
Thame.[10] He spent his early childhood in Kharta, discipline
near the north of the country. Norgay went to Nepal as Born May 1914
a child to work for a Sherpa family in Tengboche, Sagarmatha
Khumbu.[3][11][12][13][14][15] Zone, Nepal, or Tse Chu,
Ü-Tsang, Tibet
Khumbu lies near Mount Everest, which the Tibetans Died 9 May 1986 (aged 71–72)
and Sherpas call Chomolungma; in Standard Tibetan, Darjeeling, West Bengal, India
that name means "Holy Mother", or the goddess of the
Nationality Nepalese · Indian
summit.[16] Buddhism is the traditional religion of the
Sherpas and Tibetans, and Norgay was Buddhist.[6] Career
Starting age 19 years
Although his exact date of birth is unknown, he knew
Starting Porter
it was in late May by the weather and the crops. After
discipline
his ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953, he decided to
celebrate his birthday on that day thereafter. His year Notable First ascent of Mount Everest,
of birth, according to the Tibetan calendar, was the ascents May 1953
Tenzing ran away from home twice in his teens, first to Kathmandu and later to Darjeeling, India (which
at that time was the starting point for most expeditions in the eastern Himalayas), and eventually acquired
Indian citizenship.[19] He was once sent to Tengboche Monastery to become a monk, but he decided that
was not for him and left.[20] At the age of 19 he settled in the Sherpa community in the Too Song Busti
district of Darjeeling.[6]
Mountaineering
Norgay received his first opportunity to join an Everest expedition
at age 20, when Eric Shipton was assembling the 1935 British
Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. After two other
prospective team members failed their medical tests, Norgay was
pushed forward by his friend Ang Tharkay, a Sherpa sirdar who
had been on the 1933 British Mount Everest expedition. His
attractive smile caught the eye of Shipton, who decided to take
him on.[21]
At the time, newspaper reports variously referred to him as Tensing, Tenzing, Tenzing Bhotia, Tenzing
Norgay, Tensing Norkey, Tenzing Sherpa or Dan Shin, as one Indian academic suggested.[27]
The Hunt expedition totalled over 400 people, including 362 porters, 20 Sherpa guides and 10,000
pounds (4,500 kg) of baggage,[28] and like many such expeditions, was a team effort.
The expedition set up base camp in March 1953. Hillary wrote in 1975 about first meeting Norgay in
Kathmandu on 5 March 1953:[29]
I was eager to meet Tenzing Norgay. His reputation had been most impressive even before his
two great efforts with the Swiss expedition ... Tenzing really looked the part – larger than most
Sherpas, he was very strong and active; his flashing smile was irresistible; and he was
incredibly patient with all our questions and requests. His success in the past had given him
great physical confidence – I think that even then he expected to be a member of the final
assault party ... One message came through however in very positive fashion – Tenzing had
substantially greater personal ambition than any Sherpa I had met.
Working slowly, the expedition set up their penultimate camp at the South Col, at 25,900 feet (7,900 m).
On 26 May, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans attempted the climb, but turned back when Evans'
oxygen system failed. The pair had reached the South Summit, coming within 300 vertical feet (91 m) of
the summit.[30] Hunt then directed Norgay and Hillary to go for the summit.
Snow and wind held the pair up at the South Col for two days. They set out on 28 May with a support trio
comprising Ang Nyima, Alfred Gregory and George Lowe. Norgay and Hillary pitched a tent at 27,900
feet (8,500 m) on 28 May while their support group returned down the mountain. On the following
morning, Hillary discovered that his boots had frozen solid outside the tent. He spent two hours warming
them before he and Tenzing attempted the final ascent, wearing 30-pound (14 kg) packs.[31] The last part
of the ascent comprised a 40-foot (12 m) rock face later named the "Hillary Step". Hillary saw a means to
wedge his way up a crack in the face between the rock wall and the ice, and Norgay followed.[32]
From there, the following effort was relatively simple. They reached Everest's 29,028-foot (8,848 m)
summit, the highest point on Earth, at 11:30 a.m.[33] As Hillary put it, "A few more whacks of the ice axe
in the firm snow, and we stood on top."[34]
They spent only about 15 minutes at the summit. Hillary took the
famous photo of Norgay posing with his ice-axe, but since Norgay
had never used a camera, Hillary's ascent went unrecorded.
However, according to Norgay's autobiography Man of Everest,[6]
when Norgay offered to take Hillary's photograph Hillary declined
—"I motioned to Hillary that I would now take his picture. But for
some reason he shook his head; he did not want it."[35][36]
Additional photos were taken looking down the mountain, in order
to re-assure that they had made it to the top and to document that
the ascent was not faked.[37] The two had to take care on the
Sir Edmund Hillary greets Tenzing
descent after discovering that drifting snow had covered their Norgay, c. 1971.
tracks, complicating the task of retracing their steps. The first
person they met was Lowe, who had climbed up to meet them
with hot soup.
Afterwards, Norgay was met with great adulation in Nepal and India. Hillary and Hunt were knighted by
Queen Elizabeth II,[38] while Norgay received the George Medal for his efforts on the expedition.[18][39]
It has been suggested that Indian prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru refused permission for Norgay to be
knighted.[18]
It has been a long road ... From a mountain coolie, a bearer of loads, to a wearer of a coat with
rows of medals who is carried about in planes and worries about income tax.
— Tenzing Norgay[6]
Nonetheless, there was some inequity, according to National Geographic,[40]
"Hillary was knighted for being the first known person to climb to the top of Mount Everest.
But Tenzing, who simultaneously reached its summit, only received an honorary medal. In
the years since there's been growing disquiet at the lack of official recognition."
Norgay and Hillary were the first people to conclusively set foot on the summit of Mount Everest, but
journalists were persistently repeating the question: "Which of the two men had the right to the glory of
being the first one, and who was merely the second, the follower?" Colonel Hunt, the expedition leader,
declared, "They reached it together, as a team."[41]
Norgay eventually ended the speculation by revealing that Hillary was first in his 1955 autobiography. It
was ghost-written by American writer James Ramsay Ullman as Tenzing could speak several languages
but could not read or write. They were roped six feet apart, with most of the 30 foot rope in loops in his
hand:[42][43]
A little below the summit Hillary and I stopped. ... I was not thinking of 'first' and 'second'. I did
not say to myself, there is a golden apple up there. I will push Hillary aside and run for it. We
went on slowly, steadily. And then we were there. Hillary stepped on top first. And I stepped up
after him ... Now the truth is told. And I am ready to be judged by it.
After Everest
Tenzing Norgay became the first Director of Field Training of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in
Darjeeling, when it was set up in 1954.
In 1978 Norgay founded Tenzing Norgay Adventures,[46] a company providing trekking adventures in the
Himalayas. As of 2021, the company was run by his son Jamling Tenzing Norgay, who himself reached
the summit of Everest in 1996.[47]
On 10 May 1984 Tenzing Norgay, together with Grp Capt A. J. S. Grewal, Principal of the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute, attended the 10th-anniversary celebrations of The School of Adventure,
Mysore, Karnataka held at the Mysore Institution of Engineers' auditorium.
Honours
In 1938, after Norgay's third Everest expedition as a porter, the Himalayan Club awarded him its Tiger
Medal for high-altitude work.[18]
On 7 June 1953, it was announced that the newly crowned Queen Elizabeth II wished to recognize
Norgay's achievements. 10 Downing Street announced on 1 July that, following consultation with the
governments of India and Nepal, the Queen had approved awarding Norgay the George Medal.[48][49] He
also received, along with the rest of the Everest party, the Queen Elizabeth II Coronation Medal. In May
2013, Norgay's grandson, Tashi Tenzing, said he believed his grandfather should have been knighted, not
just given "a bloody medal".[50][51]
In 1953, King Tribhuvan of Nepal presented him with the Order of the Star of Nepal, 1st Class
(Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara).[52]
In 1959, the Government of India awarded him the Padma Bhushan, the third-highest civilian award of
India.[53] Indian Mountaineering Foundation presented him with its gold medal.[54]
On 1 March 1963, Norgay was awarded the honorary title of "Merited Master of Sport of the USSR" by
the Soviet Union, becoming the first foreigner to receive this distinction.[55]
In September 2013, the Government of Nepal proposed naming a 7,916-metre (25,971 ft) mountain in
Nepal Tenzing Peak in Norgay's honour.[56] Both Tenzing Peak and Hillary Peak are points on the long
Ridge from Cho Oyu to Gyuchung Kang with Tenzing Peak nearer to Cho Oyu.
In July 2015, the highest-known, 3.4-kilometre-high (11,000 ft) mountain range on the dwarf planet Pluto
was named Tenzing Montes.[57]
Norgay's second wife was Ang Lahmu, a cousin of his first wife.
They had no biological children, but she was adoptive mother to
their daughters from his earlier marriage with her cousin.[6]
The house in Darjeeling where
Norgay spent his last years
His third wife was Dakku, whom he married while his second wife
was still alive, as allowed by Sherpa custom (see polygyny). They
had three sons (Norbu, Jamling and Dhamey), and one daughter, Deki, who married American lawyer
Clark Trainor. Jamling would join Peter Hillary, Edmund Hillary's son, in climbing Everest in 2003 on the
50th anniversary of their fathers' climb.[58]
Other relatives include Norgay's nephews, Nawang Gombu and Topgay, who took part in the 1953
Everest expedition; and his grandsons, Tashi Tenzing, who lives in Sydney, Australia, and the Trainor
grandsons: Tenzing, Kalden, and Yonden.[6][58] Tenzing Trainor is an actor who appeared on Liv and
Maddie.[59]
Legacy
Tenzing Norgay memorial
Awards
In 2003, commemorating the golden jubilee of Norgay's summit of Everest, the Indian
government renamed its highest adventure sports award, the Tenzing Norgay National
Adventure Award after him.[64]
Literature
In 2011, Indian comic publisher Amar Chitra Katha released a children's comic book about
Tenzing Norgay.[65]
Film
In Intolerable Cruelty, the 2003 American film by the Coen brothers, Norgay is mentioned by
the film's main character in creating metaphor for the positive act of enabling.[66][67]
Places
One of the buildings at Everest Court, Mottingham in Kent, England is named after him.
In January 2008, Lukla Airport was renamed Tenzing–Hillary Airport in honour of the pair
and their achievement.[68]
Tenzing Montes is the name of an icy mountain range on the surface of Pluto.[69]
Minor planet 6481 Tenzing is named in his honour.[70]
Animals
Red pandas at several zoos are named in his honour.[71][72][73][74]
Consumer goods
The energy drink brand Tenzing is named in his honour.[75]
See also
Relatives of Tenzing Norgay:
Notes
1. Norgay, Jamling Tenzing; Coburn, Broughton (2002). Touching My Father's Soul: In the
Footsteps of Sherpa Tenzing (https://books.google.com/books?id=tiQ30qkDseEC). Ebury
Press. ISBN 978-0-09-188467-3. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230828072052/ht
tps://books.google.com/books?id=tiQ30qkDseEC) from the original on 28 August 2023.
Retrieved 26 September 2020.
2. "Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest — Sherpa Tenzing Norgay Nepalese
Mountaineer- Information on Tenzing Norgay" (https://web.archive.org/web/2014030207592
5/http://www.tenzingasianholidays.com/about-us/history.html). tenzingasianholidays.com.
Archived from the original (http://www.tenzingasianholidays.com/about-us/history.html) on 2
March 2014. Retrieved 2 March 2014.
3. Douglas, Ed (24 December 2000). "Secret past of the man who conquered Everest" (https://
www.theguardian.com/world/2000/dec/24/books.booksnews). The Observer. Archived (http
s://web.archive.org/web/20140826130643/http://www.theguardian.com/world/2000/dec/24/b
ooks.booksnews) from the original on 26 August 2014. Retrieved 22 August 2014.
4. Morris, Jan (14 June 1999). "The Conquerors HILLARY & TENZING" (https://web.archive.or
g/web/20080116035143/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,991255,00.html).
TIME. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,991255,
00.html) on 16 January 2008. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
5. "TIME 100 Persons of The Century" (http://content.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,2
6473,00.html). TIME. 6 June 1999. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
6. Tenzing & Ullman
7. Sonam G. Sherpa (27 August 2013). "Tenzing Norgay Sherpa's interview, in Tibetan, with All
India Radio, Kurersong, India" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbTgL6xpQuE).
Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211117/GbTgL6xpQuE) from the
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8. Krakauer, Jon (2002). Introduction. Touching My Father's Soul: a Sherpa's Journey to the
Top of Everest. By Norgay, Jamling Tenzing; Coburn, Broughton. San Francisco, California:
HarperSanFrancisco. p. XV. ISBN 0062516876. OCLC 943113647 (https://search.worldcat.
org/oclc/943113647). "Born in Tibet, raised in Nepal, and a resident of India since the age of
19, he had become a symbol of hope and inspiration for millions of caste-bound Indians,
poverty-stricken Nepalese, and politically oppressed Tibetans – all of whom regard him as a
countryman."
9. Coburn, Broughton (1997). Everest : Mountain Without Mercy (https://archive.org/details/eve
restmountainw00cobu/page/112). Washington, DC: National Geographic Society. p. 112 (htt
ps://archive.org/details/everestmountainw00cobu/page/112). ISBN 0792270142.
OCLC 36675993 (https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/36675993). "Jamling pulled out the string
of flags he intended to display on the summit: Nepal, India, Tibet, U.S.A. and the United
Nations. 'My parents are from Tibet, but lived for long periods in Nepal and India, where I
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c) required.)
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given.
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39. Vallely, Paul (10 May 1986). "Man of the mountains Tenzing dies". The Times.
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References
Tony Astill, Mount Everest The Reconnaissance 1935 (2005)
George Band, Everest Exposed (2005), an account of the 1953 expedition
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Tashi Tenzing and Judy Tenzing, Tenzing Norgay and Sherpas of Everest (2003)
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Jamling Tenzing Norgay, Touching My Father's Soul (2002)
Tenzing Norgay and Malcolm Barnes, After Everest (1978)
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Tenzing Norgay (http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html) at the
Royal Geographical Society. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070414143647/http://i
magingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html) 14 April 2007 at the Wayback
Machine.
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Foundation (http://www.sherpatenzingnorgay.com/index-noflash.htm
l)
"OUR SPORTSMEN: Tenzin Norgay" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070927210527/http://h
ome.123india.com/alokghosh/Heritage/Our%20Sportsmen.htm). 123india.com. Archived
from the original (http://home.123india.com/alokghosh/Heritage/Our%20Sportsmen.htm) on
27 September 2007. Retrieved 27 September 2007.
Works by or about Tenzing Norgay (https://archive.org/search.php?query=%28%28subject%
3A%22Norgay%2C%20Tenzing%22%20OR%20subject%3A%22Tenzing%20Norgay%22%
20OR%20creator%3A%22Norgay%2C%20Tenzing%22%20OR%20creator%3A%22Tenzin
g%20Norgay%22%20OR%20creator%3A%22Norgay%2C%20T%2E%22%20OR%20title%
3A%22Tenzing%20Norgay%22%20OR%20description%3A%22Norgay%2C%20Tenzing%2
2%20OR%20description%3A%22Tenzing%20Norgay%22%29%20OR%20%28%221914-1
986%22%20AND%20Norgay%29%29%20AND%20%28-mediatype:software%29) at the
Internet Archive