1

Chamonix

Glacier du Tour
Gl. d'Argentière
Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc
A guide to the best rock climbs
and mountain routes around
Chamonix and Mont Blanc

Grandes Jorasses
Charlie Boscoe

Envers des Aiguilles

Luke Davies

Plan de l'Aiguille
Text and topos by Charlie Boscoe and Luke Davies
Additional text and topos by Jack Geldard
Crag photography by Charlie Boscoe, Luke Davies

Aiguille du Midi
and Jack Geldard
Action photography as credited
Edited by Alan James
Printed in Europe LF Book Services Limited
Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk)

Helbronner
Maps by Alan James and Mark Reeves
Maps based on original source data from openstreetmap.org

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Published by ROCKFAX in July 2022
© ROCKFAX 2022, 2016

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

Mont Blanc
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or
otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
Tré la Tête

Fax63 - ISBN 978 1 873341 78 0

AR- Brévent/Planpraz

Cover: Joe Brindley on the striking needles of the

Aiguille d'Entrèves Traverse (AD-) - p.281.
This page: Naoise O' Muircheartaigh on California
Dream (ED2) - p.196 - the Envers des Aiguilles.
Photos: Luke Davies
AR- Index

This book belongs to:

AR - Vallorcine
Valley Cragging
 Contents Chamonix 3
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Glacier du Tour
Other Guidebooks and Maps . . . . . . . . 8
Route Descriptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Symbol, Map and Topo Key . . . . . . . . 11
Rockfax Digital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Gl. d'Argentière
Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rockfax Publications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Chamonix Logistics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Emergencies and Rescue . . . . . . . . . . 20
Where is Chamonix? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Refuges and Bivouac Shelters . . . . . . 32
Shops and Tourist Information . . . . . . 34

Grandes Jorasses
Other Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Chamonix Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Fitness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Envers des Aiguilles

Alpine Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Alpine Dangers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Chamonix Climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Guiding Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Plan de l'Aiguille
Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Grades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Route Timings and Length . . . . . . . . . 56
Other Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

Aiguille du Midi
Destination Planner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Glacier du Tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Glacier d'Argentière . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

Helbronner
Charpoua and Nant Blanc . . . . . . . . 122
Glacier de Talèfre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Grandes Jorasses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Envers des Aiguilles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Plan de l'Aiguille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Aiguille du Midi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Helbronner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc du Tacul . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Mont Blanc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Tré la Tête . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358
Aiguilles Rouges - Brévent . . . . . . . . 370

Tré la Tête
Aiguilles Rouges - Index . . . . . . . . . . 392
Aiguilles Rouges - Vallorcine . . . . . . 418
Chamonix Valley Sport Climbing . . . 434

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Chamonix Valley Bouldering . . . . . . . 436
Servoz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438
Coupeau Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444
Les Gaillands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

AR- Index
Les Mottets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
La Joux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
Les Chéserys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
Vallorcine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484

AR - Vallorcine
Barberine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488

Route Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502 Will Harris on an ascent of the

Valley Cragging
Mountain Route Index and Tick List 506 Aiguille d'Argentiere via the Flèche
Crag and General Index . . . . . . . . . . 512 Rousse Ridge (AD) - p.99 - going
valley to valley. Photo: Luke Davies
 4 Chamonix Introduction Introduction Chamonix 5
Lying at the heart of the Alps, and home to their highest peak, Chamonix was always going
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
to be a major alpine centre. It is the place where mountaineering was 'invented' and is home
to some of the steepest and most spectacular mountains in the world, all made accessible
by an incredible lift system. It all adds up to make Chamonix the 'mecca' of alpine climbing.
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Mont Blanc was climbed in 1786 by
Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard in
Helbronner

Helbronner
Just about every legendary alpinist in
return for a financial reward from Genevan
history has spent time climbing amongst
scientist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure,
the stunning peaks of the Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

who was fascinated by the peak. Nearly
Massif; Bonatti, Cassin, Rébuffat, Terray,
250 years on, Chamonix and Mont Blanc
Whymper, Messner, Bonington, Lafaille and
continue to attract those who are drawn to
Steck have all left their mark on the range.
high, wild places. The unique mix of high,
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Today it remains the place that anyone
beautiful and solid mountains, combined
serious about alpine climbing needs to visit
with extraordinary access to them, means
to test themselves against climbing's most
that it remains the best alpine climbing
legendary mountains.
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
destination on earth.
Unusually for an alpine climbing area, the
rock quality is mainly excellent across the Guidebook Footnote
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
range (although rockfall remains a major The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does
danger in the summer months) so in not mean that you have a right of access or the right to
addition to the snow and ice adventures climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide
are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance
common to glaciated mountaineering, the should be placed on the accuracy of the description.
AR- Index

AR- Index
Mont Blanc Massif also provides many The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the
stunning granite rock climbs. Furthermore, difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a
particular standard should use their own judgment as to
there are a number of superb sport climbing
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route.
crags in the Chamonix Valley, meaning that This book is not a substitute for experience and proper
this book contains routes of almost every judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this
type, from short bolted climbs to the huge book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Connor Read on the The Rochefort Ridge caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising
1000m mixed routes and the legendary (AD) - p.277. In the background is the from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as
North Faces of the Alps. iconic Dent du Géant. Photo: Luke Davies an assurance for their own safety.
 6 Chamonix Introduction Introduction Chamonix 7

Route Inclusion Policy

Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Deciding which routes to include and which to leave out is one of the toughest parts
of writing any selective guidebook. Never is this truer than in Chamonix where a
comprehensive mixed and ice climbs guidebook contains over 1200 routes (spread over
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
two volumes); the Aiguilles Rouges, Envers des Aiguilles and the valley crags all have their
own comprehensive guidebooks; and that still leaves all the granite rock climbs which are
currently documented in four separate books!
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Our aim is to describe routes that are (relatively) safe, despite the changing climate and
glacial retreat. This means that we have omitted some former classics which no longer
see the traffic they used to because of changing conditions or tastes. We have focused on
routes which are regularly climbed. This doesn't mean that every route will be busy (in fact
solitude will be virtually guaranteed on some) but, if a route is in this book, you can assume
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
that it is still climbed at some stage most years. However, proper research into conditions
and weather is still vital; even popular and well-travelled routes are the scenes of plenty of
epics for unprepared teams especially when conditions change rapidly.
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Our aim has been to create a book that gives maximum benefit to the majority of alpinists.
We are confident that nearly all the classic routes in the valley have made it into the final
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
selection, along with some lesser-known gems. The quality and quantity of routes above
Chamonix is staggering and this is reflected in the diversity of the climbs we've described.
The focus of this book is mainly on popular routes rather than hard ones but higher-grade
climbers should still find plenty to go at and ticking every TD+ or ED in here would be a
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
huge project. We have focused on routes easily accessible from the Chamonix Valley itself.
This means that even without transport you will still be able to consider the vast majority of
routes in this book. There are still some wild and remote areas described (the Tré la Tête
Helbronner

Helbronner
basin and the Italian side of the massif for example) but most of the climbs described are
accessed from Chamonix itself.
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Most climbers who go to Chamonix don't just want to do high altitude snow ridges, or
mountain granite rock routes, or just climb in one small area. They want to be able to
choose from all types of climbing over the whole area and have a book that gives them
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
everything they need to find and choose the best routes - this is that book.

Route Names
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
Many of the routes have different names in French, Italian, German and English. We have
mostly gone with names used in the Alpine Club guides, or French names. These have
been synchronised with the logbook section of UKClimbing.com.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
New in this Edition
This 2022 edition of the Chamonix Rockfax has 56 more pages than the 2016 version.
It includes a new section for Charpoua and Nant Blanc, the additional area Aiguilles
AR- Index

AR- Index
Rouges - Vallorcine and three new valley sport crags. Overall there are 59 extra mountain
routes described. Every route has been carefully looked at and the descriptions have been
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
improved and brought into line with the current glacier conditions. There are many new crag
photographs as well and an almost completely new set of action photographs. The maps
have been enhanced and updated throughout the book.
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Luke Davies and Joe Brindley on a morning solo of the Chamonix
hamster wheel - the Mallory-Porter (AD) - p.242. Photo: Jake Holland
 8 Chamonix Other Guidebooks and Maps Other Guidebooks and Maps Chamonix 9

How to use this Book Other Guidebooks

Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
This book gives wide coverage of the various climbing styles across the whole Chamonix The books listed here are currently available and all of them offer
area. It does not seek to replace any comprehensive guide but provides a catalogue of great coverage of their specific areas, with a few being 'best of'.
routes at all levels that inspires and informs people of the options available without having
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
to buy a small truckload of books. In many cases this book is all you need for an ascent and Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2020)
this is certainly the case on the shorter climbs and some of the easier mountain routes. If by François Burnier and Dominique Potard
you spend longer in the area then we strongly advise that you buy some of the other books A guidebook covering the sport climbing areas and four
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

(opposite) which give a wider coverage than we can offer here. bouldering areas in the Chamonix Valley.
Long Alpine Routes - On longer mountain routes there isn't room to give blow by blow
descriptions and photo-topos can have limitations. Complex route lines and intricate details Mont Blanc: The Finest Routes (2013)
may vary or not be obvious on the concise coverage given here. We advise anyone wishing by Philippe Batoux
to climb longer alpine routes to do their research and to make sure they are A coffee table book showcasing the 100 finest routes in
well informed on recent ascent conditions. We also advise taking additional the Mont Blanc Massif.
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
topos some of which may have more detail than can be shown in this book.
Mont Blanc Granite 1, 2, 3, 4 (2021)
Maps by François Damilano
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

The maps included in this book should contain enough detail to Guides to the rock based routes of the Mont Blanc
navigate to and from the peaks and routes described. However, massif in four volumes.
they are designed for locating faces and mountains rather
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
than micro-navigation and a 1:25000 topographical map is still The Aiguilles Rouges 1 & 2 (2016)
essential, as is the ability to use it. by Michel Piola
The French IGN maps numbers 3630 OT, Chamonix, Massif du A comprehensive guide to the Aiguilles Rouges
from Brévent to Lac Emosson.
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Mont Blanc and 3531 ET, St-Gervais-Les Bains are available
in virtually every climbing shop in Chamonix and all the routes
in this book are covered over these two maps. Kompass also Envers des Aiguilles (2007)
produce a 1:50000 map that covers much of the massif (Kompass by Michel Piola
Helbronner

Helbronner
map number 85, Mont Blanc, Monte Bianco) as do Swisstopo A comprehensive guide to the Envers des Aiguilles
(map number 5003, Mont Blanc Grand Combin). area.
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Fiches Granite 1-11 (2018-)
by Michel Piola
A series of fold out leaflet topos covering popular
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
granite crags of the area such as the Blaitière, Midi
South Face, Chandelle, Dorées etc.

Mont Blanc (2020)

Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
by Matteo Pasquetto
Versante Sud guide to the Italian side of the massif.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Snow, Ice and Mixed 1 and 2 (2021)
by François Damilano
A comprehensive guide to all non-rock based routes
AR- Index

AR- Index
in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Vallee de l'Arve (2017)

AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
by Giles Brunot
A comprehensive guide to the fantastic limestone
climbing in the Arve valley (the valley below the viaduct you drive
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
up to get to Chamonix). This area is often overlooked but has some
On the Papillion Arête (D) - p.228 - above the Plan de l'Aiguille. Photo: Hamish Frost fantastic sport climbing from single pitch to mini big walls.
 10 Chamonix Route Descriptions Symbol, Map and Topo Key Chamonix 11
Alpine Mixed Routes Route Symbols Topo Key
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Commitment Grade
- Seriousness of the
Two Ice Axe - Two axes are advised - route
involves sections of steep mixed ground or
One Ice Axe - One ice axe
is advised. Usually for easier 1 A good route which is well worth the effort.
Route line
Route illustrated
on a different topo
A very good route, one of the best on the hidden from view
2
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
route. Difficulty of ice. Winter trad gear also required. ridge and walking routes.
approach or descent, crag or mountain.
Alpine Grade - A brilliant route, one of the best in the Possible
level of objective
hazard and difficulty 2 Migot Spur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3mΩ D- 3 Overall grade taking 3 Chamonix area. bivvy
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

account of the length, Technical climbing requiring good balance location 5b Descent
of retreat once on the
climb - see p.55.
IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first
North Face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without difficulty and serious- t and technique, or complex and tricky moves.
any particularly difficult climbing. ness of the climb. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low
Climbing/Route
Length - Length of
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (dry in
late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the
See p.54. p lock-offs or long moves off small holds. Alpine
mixed
Abseil
line
Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves
climbing from bottom
of route to top. Total
north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further
right to get through the rock band, although there is no
Alpine Technical
Grade (Mixed Route)
s or steep rock giving pumpy climbing.
route 6a 6a
Equipped
Fingery climbing with significant small holds
guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
f belay
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
length on longer - On predominantly on the hard sections. Belay
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to 50m
routes and traverses. stay safe from potential serac fall. mixed terrain or ice, Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and

Climbing/Route
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac.
The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is
technical grades from
1 (easy cramponing or
h scary run-outs. 5c
Approximate
vertical
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for Alpine rock
Time - Approximate
timing from bottom of
good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just
to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
mixed scrambling) to 7
(steep, sustained and
r one or more of the moves. route
6a height >30

Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward

route to top. Does not
include approach or
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning
position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit.
extremely technical
climbing).
k thrutchy moves. 5c Lower-off
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
FA. A.Migot, C.Devouassoux 28.7.1929
descent time. See p.54.
l Loose rock may be encountered.
25m
Approximate
Trad gear is required, either a full rack or 2 Pitch
vertical
Alpine Rock Routes n extra to supplement fixed gear.
grades on 6c+
height <30
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
long routes
One ice axe is advised. For easier ridge and
Commitment Grade Trad Gear - A trad route requiring One Ice Axe - One j walking routes and glacier approaches. 1
Sport route
- Seriousness of the a full rack of gear. There may be ice axe is advised for Two axes are advised. Route involves
m sections of steep mixed ground or ice.
Helbronner

Helbronner
route. Difficulty of some bolts or bolted belays. glacier approaches.
approach or descent,
Alpine Grade -
Crag Symbols Approach 3
level of objective
3 Majorette Thatcher . . . 3njΩ TD 6b+ Overall grade taking
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Angle of the approach walk to the base of
hazard and difficulty
of retreat once on the II, 170m. A great crack climb, with an equally good name.
1) 6a. Climb a series of flakes and cracks leftwards and then
account of the length,
difficulty and serious-
S
20 mins the routes with approximate time.
Map Key
climb - see p.55. Approach walk to a crag that requires
Climbing/Route
back right to belay just beneath a roof.
2) 6b+. Make a stiff pull through the roof then climb easier
ness of the climb.
See p.54. Z
2 hours crossing a glacier or snowfield. Crag in another chapter
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
flakes to belay beneath some wide cracks. Train page
Length - Length of Approximate time that the crag is in the
climbing from bottom
of route to top. Total
3) 6b. Climb the wide cracks and step right to an exposed
stance.
4) 6b. Step left and climb the wide off-width crack that leads
Alpine Hardest Pitch
Grade (Rock Route)
E direct sun (when it is shining).
Town

Road
Paths

Peak (height)
- Sport grade of the
IOPB
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
length on longer out left across an exposed hanging slab. Best season for this crag. Lift or
routes and traverses. 5) 6a. Step left from the belay and head up a narrowing crack hardest move or pitch cable car
Mountain face
a couple of metres left of the ridge crest directly above the on a predominantly page

J
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Pitch Grade - Sport stance. Be careful not to go too far left and stray onto the rock route. An abseil approach is required. Refuge
final chimney pitch of Les Diamants du Président. (height) Col
grade for rock moves See p.54.
FA. M.Piola, P-A.Steiner 17.7.1984 Sheltered from bad weather and may be a
*
Lake
on a pitch. Trees Building
Glacier
sun trap in colder weather.

Sport Routes Deserted - Quiet and seldom visited.

AR- Index

AR- Index
Open
Less good routes or a remote area. rocky
Route length - Check ground
Quiet - Less popular sections, or good areas
spot heights on the 4 Surbac à bras . . . . . . . . 3spΩ 6b Sport Grade - Single Glacier
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
grade for sport routes with awkward or long approaches.
topos - 30m 1) 3c. Start up Le pas d' la fin but move right to a belay.
2) 5c. Make a few juggy moves over the overhang then romp (Brévent and valley Busy - Places you will seldom be alone. Steep rock
Pitch Grade - Sport to the belay up on the right. crag chapters only). Good routes and easy access. Long route
3) 6b. The left-leaning ramp/flake is tough to enter and steep
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
grade for rock moves See p.55. page
and juggy all the way up - brilliant. A great climb to do in one Crowded - The most popular crags which Bivouac
on a pitch.
massive 36m pitch. are usually busy when in condition. (height) Scale
 12 Chamonix Rockfax Digital Rockfax Digital Chamonix 13
Rockfax Digital brings together 30 current Rockfax
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
print publications with UKC Logbooks, adds some
digital-only content and presents it in a user-friendly
package for use on mobile devices.
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
The heart of Rockfax Digital is the crag and route information covering
'areas' which correspond roughly to the printed guidebooks. The main
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

data is sold by subscription so that you purchase access to everything for
a period of time, from a month to a year. Once you are subscribed, you
will have everything on Rockfax Digital for the duration - currently 64,000+
routes being added to all the time. You can download the main data and store it on your
device so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos
and maps. There is plenty of free content available without subscription, enabling you to get
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
a really good impression of what Rockfax Digital is like without shelling out any money.

Rockfax Digital is available

Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

as an app which is free to
download and incredibly useful
in its own right. It contains a
detailed crag map linked to the
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
UKClimbing crags database
with basic information and
route lists for around 21,000
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
crags worldwide. The map also
displays all the 4,000+ listings
from the UKClimbing Directory
Helbronner

Helbronner
of climbing walls, outdoor shops,
climbing clubs, outdoor-specific
accommodation and instructors
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

and guides, amongst others.

How to Subscribe
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Go to rockfax.digital to find links to download the app and create an account.
You can then test the app and use the free content or set up a subscription for
full access. Scan the QR code to the right for more information.
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
Scan to find
out more
UKC Logbooks
A popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks system.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
This database has more than half a million routes on over 21,700 crags. So far, over 52,800
users have recorded more than 8.5 million ascents! To set up your own logbook just register
at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. You will be able to record every ascent
you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry
AR- Index

AR- Index
has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system which
is used by guidebook writers to get opinions on grades and quality of routes. The logbook
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only.
Rockfax Digital can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that
you can record your activity while at the crag. To do this you will need a 3G/4G/5G data
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your Freja Shannon high up on the East Face of the Grand
chosen route recently to check on conditions. Capucin - p.302. In the background is the Petit Capucin,
Roi de Siam and Pointe Adolphe Rey. Photo: John McCune
 14 Chamonix Acknowledgements Acknowledgements Chamonix 15
We are grateful the following companies
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
who have supported this guidebook.
Awesome Walls - p.2
awesomewalls.co.uk
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
BMC Insurance - Inside back cover
thebmc.co.uk/insurance
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

John McCune - p.51
mccunemountaineering.co.uk
Jöttnar - Back cover
jottnar.com
Montane - p.21
montane.com
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Mountain Equipment - Inside front cover
mountain-equipment.co.uk
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Petzl - Back cover flap
petzl.com
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Having moved to Chamonix in late 2016,
not long after the first edition came out,
the book definitely helped give inspiration
to what was available and to give a wider
Helbronner

Helbronner
context to the mountains surrounding the
town. Hopefully this edition will be seen A guidebook serves to both inspire, and to convey a passion for a region. My passion for
to build on that basis and give others the mountains that tower above Chamonix is so strong because I’ve been lucky enough
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

inspiration to visit some of the new areas to share them with some wonderful friends. I would particularly like to thank the following
included that were omitted from the first climbers for their company, support and good humour on countless Chamonix adventures
edition - thanks to Charlie Boscoe and - Peter Riley, Tom Grant, Matt Livingstone, Tristan Wise, Tom Moores, Phil Ebert, Emma
Jack Geldard for their work on this. Jack, John Cuthbert and Sharon Wray.
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Particularly big thanks to all those who In addition, I would also like to thank the following people, some of whom have
I've climbed, skied and biked with over the accompanied me on routes, some who have patiently sat and given me the benefit of
years, many who are included in pictures their knowledge so that every description, line and detail is just right. Whichever category
in this book, and whom without, I would you fall into, thank you for your help: Caroline Mulligan, Nick Taylor, Sophie Headeach,
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
have not been able to explore so much Nora Hanson, Dane Burns, Alastair Lee, Jon Griffith, Ross Hewitt and Ed Docwra.
of the massif and have had such a good It also goes without saying that we are extremely grateful to all those climbers who have
time doing so. developed the superb climbs in this book. From the old pioneers of the 1800s to prolific
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Thanks also to those who have bolters like Michel Piola, their efforts are much appreciated since, without them, we would
contributed pictures or time to help with have nothing to write about!
this edition: Jake Holland, Hamish Frost, I also owe a huge debt to Alan James and Luke Davies for their hard work in giving this
Tim Oliver (timoliverguiding.com), John book such a thorough and aesthetic update.
AR- Index

AR- Index
McCune (mccunemountaineering.co.uk, I would also like to give special thanks to Sharon, Holly and Ella, who make every day
Dan Fitzgerald, Tom Skelhorn, Will Harris better. Here's to a lifetime of adventures together.
(WillHarrisGuiding.com), Matt Glenn and Loving high places comes with a price, but we never know exactly what it will be or when
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
my wife, Lindsey Dolan (who I'm also we'll have to pay. The loss of Liz Daley, Will Eaton, Will Wilkinson and Martin Widén
grateful for tolerating me being away remind me that these beautiful mountains demand respect, vigilance, and a slice of luck.
in the mountains so much!) as well as Finally, I thank my parents, who provided me with a loving and happy childhood then
Climbers on the top of the Dent du Géant at sunset, having watched me disappear off to Chamonix aged 22 in search of adventure. 15 years on, their
to Alan James for the editing and help
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
climbed the popular Southwest Face (AD+) - p.275 - a rare
throughout. quiet time on a busy summit. In the background is Mont Blanc,
love and support is unwavering. This book is for them.
Luke Davies, May 2022 the Brenva Face and Mont Blanc du Tacul. Photo: Tim Oliver Charlie Boscoe, May 2022
 16 Rockfax Publications Rockfax Publications 17
Print version date
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Digital version date
Digital has extra content
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
New edition
2023
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

North Wales Climbs Clwyd Limestone North Wales Slate Snowdonia Scrambles Lofoten Climbs
November 2013 December 2015 September 2018 December 2020 May 2017 Lake District Climbs Northern England Western Grit Northern Limestone
November 2013 December 2015 June 2021 December 2020 May 2017 November 2019 February 2008 April 2009 January 2015
November 2019 February 2008 April 2009 January 2015
Norway Digital-only guides
Rjukan 2016
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Nissedal 2016
Scotland
Digital-only guides
Major
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

digital Highland Outcrops South 2019
New edition
update Scottish Sport Climbs 2019 2022
Wales Scottish Winter Climbs 2019
South Wales Sport Climbs Pembroke Scottish Rock 2020
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
November 2016 August 2009 England Eastern Grit Peak Limestone Peak Bouldering
Highland Scrambles 2020 West Country Climbs
November 2016 April 2022 May 2022 June 2020 May 2014 Late 2022
May 2022 November 2021 May 2014 Late 2022
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Digital-only guides Austria and Switzerland

North Wales Winter 2016 Digital-only guides

Otztal (Austria) 2017
France Eiger (Switzerland) 2016
Helbronner

Helbronner
Italy
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Greece and Cyprus
Spain Digital-only guides
Santorini 2019 Southern Sandstone Dorset Dorset Bouldering Deep Water
Kalymnos
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Cyprus 2022 September 2017 July 2021 May 2014 June 2007
May 2018
September 2017 July 2021 January 2020 In other books
November 2019
Digital-only guides
Catalunya 2016 For all trade printed book orders please direct enquiries to Cordee
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
El Chorro
Madrid Area 2017 Digital-only guides
Telephone: +44 145 561 1185 Email: [email protected]
December 2018 Ailefroide 2021
Zaragoza 2016 Digital-only guides
Trade Sales: [email protected] Web: cordee.co.uk
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
December 2018 Tenerife 2020 Sasso Remenno 2019 Maurienne 2021

Rockfax produce
AR- Index

AR- Index
print and digital
information to
areas all over
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Europe
rockfax.com
Spain : Costa Blanca Spain : Mallorca The Dolomites Sicily 37 titles in print France : Ariege France : Lang.Roussillon France : Haute Provence France : Côte d’Azur Chamonix
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
February 2013 April 2020 November 2019 March 2021 16 less than 6 December 2012 November 2011 December 2009 February 2017 July 2022
February 2013 April 2020 November 2019 March 2021 years old April 2021 November 2011 December 2009 February 2017 July 2022
 Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
19

Bettembourg-Thivierge (TD+) - p.309. on Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc

du Tacul. The Dent du Géant in the background. Photo: Luke Davies
Andy Mackinnion enjoying low stress granite in the sun on the
Chamonix
Logistics
18
Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
 20 Chamonix Logistics Emergencies and Rescue Emergencies and Rescue Chamonix Logistics

Emergency Services
Glacier du Tour

In the event of a mountain incident requiring the assistance of the emergency services:
Dial 112
Gl. d'Argentière

Be sure to have the details of the incident and a good description of your location.
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Travel Insurance
When you travel to an EU country or Switzerland you should have a GHIC (Global Health
Insurance Card) which are free and obtained via an online application on gov.uk. A GHIC
lets you get medically necessary state healthcare in Europe at a reduced cost or sometimes
for free until your planned return home to the UK. The old EHIC card is still valid after Brexit
until its expiry date.
Personal travel insurance is absolutely essential to cover the potential costs of rescue and
Grandes Jorasses

repatriation. Depending on where a rescue takes place, you may be picked up by either
French, Swiss or Italian emergency services and comprehensive insurance is vital to ensure
that you do not end up footing a huge bill for the helicopter.
Envers des Aiguilles

Rockfax strongly recommends thebmc.co.uk/insurance

Minor Injuries
Plan de l'Aiguille

For minor injuries and illnesses, Chamonix has an excellent (albeit quite small) hospital and
there is a larger hospital in Sallanches, 25km west of Chamonix, on the way to Geneva.
There are also numerous pharmacies in the Chamonix Valley.
Aiguille du Midi

Most of the health centres accept the GHIC for emergency treatment and usually just take a
copy of it, there will be a small fee though. The same goes for hospital treatment - this must
sometimes be paid for and claimed back through your insurance policy.
Helbronner

Rescue Procedure
If you are involved in an incident then give the rescue services (PGHM) as many details as
Mont Blanc du Tacul

you can. Try to let them know your precise location, grid reference, peak name and route
name. It may take an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any first aid
you can administer is critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the
pilot by standing with your arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and
Mont Blanc

he looks like he is coming in to hover, move to a safe distance away since the helicopter will
either come into land or send a winchman down. The downdraft is considerable so collect
all the loose equipment together and get someone to sit on them to stop them being blown
Tré la Tête

away. Do not approach the helicopter unless directed to do so by the aircrew since the
rotating blades are extremely dangerous.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

Smartphone Apps
If you have a smartphone then download the EchoSOS app from the iOS
or Android app store. This useful app has an SOS button that will call the
AR- Index

correct emergency service no matter which country you are in and send
your location using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful
apps that can calculate your OS grid reference from your phone's GPS
AR - Vallorcine

system - search for Grid Reference to find one of these in the appropriate EchoSOS app
app store.
Valley Cragging
 22 Chamonix Logistics Where is Chamonix? Where is Chamonix? Chamonix Logistics 23
Aiguilles Rouges - Vallorcine About 10km Where is Chamonix?
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Calais Map p.419
Chamonix is an alpine town
located in the Haute Savoie
Barberine Barberine
Paris region of France. It has an official
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Nancy p.488
Chamonix
population of around 10,000
Nantes Vallorcine Vallorcine
Bern
but this can swell by up to 10
Vallorcine Champex
times in the peak of the summer
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Geneva
p.485
Lyon season.
Bordeaux
Grenoble Turin The town, and the huge moun-
Toulouse
tains that tower above it, lie
Le Tour D1056 Le Tour
Marseilles
Nice
Les Chéserys D1056
Glacier du Tour 80km southeast of the Swiss city
p.477 Map p.66 of Geneva and 170km northwest
Aiguilles Rouges - Index of Turin. The proximity of these
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Map p.372
Argentière Argentière cities make Chamonix a rela-
La Joux
p.468
tively easy town to get to (by the
standards of the Alps) and also
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Glacier d'Argentière Glacier d'Argentière mean that escaping the moun-
Map p.86
Le Lavancher tains in favour of a bit of culture
Les Mottets when the weather turns bad is
Aiguilles Rouges - Brévent
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Map p.372
p.466 quite straightforward.

Charpoua and Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre Glacier de Talèfre

Servoz Chamonix The Chamonix Valley runs from
Map p.124 Map p.140
southwest to northeast and
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Les Gaillands
Servoz p.451
this guidebook covers the Mont
p.438 Blanc Massif, the legendary
Plan de l'Aiguille
Saint-Gervais-les-Bains Map p.206
range of glaciated alpine peaks
Helbronner

Helbronner
Les Bossons
N205 on the southern side of the
valley, the rock climbing paradise
Envers des Aiguilles of the Aiguilles Rouges range
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Les Houches Map p.178
Coupeau Area
on the north side, and the best
Grandes Jorasses
p.444 Aiguille du Midi
Map p.160
of the low altitude cragging in
Map p.244 the area. The relatively small
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc du Tacul area covered by this guidebook
Map p.295
means that being based
Mont Blanc - France Side anywhere in the Chamonix Valley
Map p.332
will allow easy access to every
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
Mont Blanc route in this book, whether by
(4808m) Helbronner
car or pubic transport.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Map p.272 Helbronner

If you do drive, allow the

Les Contamines-Montjoie following times for your journeys:
Entrèves Entrèves
Chamonix to Courmayeur
AR- Index

AR- Index
Mont Blanc - Italy Side SS26 SS26 (though the Mont Blanc
Map p.344
Tunnel) - 30 minutes (€48.80
Courmayeur Courmayeur one way, €60.80 return - 2022).
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Chamonix to Vallorcine
A5 A5 - 25 minutes
Chamonix to Les
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Tré la Tête Contamines-Montjoie
Map p.360
- 40 minutes
 24 Chamonix Logistics When to Go When to Go Chamonix Logistics 25

When to Go
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
The range of routes described in this book means that you should be able to climb something
in here on any sunny day of the year. The guide below outlines typical conditions but, as with all
mountainous regions, weather can be unpredictable and snow can fall unexpectedly at any time
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
of the year.

January - February - Generally this is peak season for powder skiing but some alpine ice routes
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

such as the mixed climbs on the Pointes Lachenal (p.318) and the routes on the East Face of the
Grands Montets Ridge (p.112) are possible for those with a tolerance for cold temperatures.

March - April - A great time to be in the Alps. Some of the valley crags will be dry by mid-March
and ice is also likely to be found in the high mountains. Much of the south-facing mountain granite
will be dry too and can be approached and descended from on skis.
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
May - Usually quite an unsettled month with insufficient snow in the mid mountain for approaches
on skis, but too much for approaches on foot. Valley rock climbing is usually the best option.
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

June - Often the least settled of the summer months with the rapidly melting of the last of winter
snows and unstable weather with regular thunderstorms. If the weather is good, and the nights
cold, some of the massif's snow-based routes can be in stunning condition.
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
July - Early August - The peak of the climbing season, both in terms of temperatures and visitor
numbers. With the exception of pure ice climbs, virtually any route could be possible depending
on conditions. Rockfall and open glaciers can be big issues so sensible route choice is vital.
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Late August - September - A colder and quieter version of July and August. By September the
mountains are usually very dry so rock routes are usually the best options and solitude is much
easier to find.
Helbronner

Helbronner
October - November - A quiet time of year which often has unsettled weather. When the sun is
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

out, conditions for snow and ice routes can be superb. The valley looks beautiful in autumn, with
snowy mountains towering above green and golden trees.

December - Options in the mountains tend to be limited so south-facing valley cragging is the
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
best bet.

Average Temp ˚C Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
Chamonix (maximum) 2 5 8 12 17 20 23 23 19 14 7 3
-7 -6 -3 0 4 7 9 9 6 2 -3 -6
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Chamonix (minimum)

Hours sun/day Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Chamonix (average) 4 5 8 9 10 11 11 10 8 7 5 3
AR- Index

AR- Index
Precip. days/month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Chamonix (average) 9 9 10 10 13 12 11 11 9 10 10 10
Joe Brindley entering the Vallée
Blanche from the Helbronner. The
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
peaks of Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc
du Tacul, with its many satellites,
visible ahead. Photo: Luke Davies
 26 Chamonix Logistics Getting There Getting There Chamonix Logistics 27
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Flying
Chamonix is just over an hour's drive from Geneva
airport. It is served by direct flights from the UK by BA,
Swiss Air and EasyJet. It can also be reached from
many other international airports.
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Car Hire
Car hire is an option if you intend to drive around,
tackle climbs on the Italian side, or do a lot of valley
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

cragging. The comparison site rentalcars.com is a
useful resource for finding the best deal, but be sure
to read the small print or you may be stung at pick-up
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
for various extras and add-ons. Also check if you are
allowed to drive in Italy and/or Switzerland. If you hire
in the Swiss section of Geneva airport, then you will
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
need a Swiss motorway vignette, which is expensive
but means that you can take the motorway. Hiring the
car from the French side means you avoid this charge
but will have to drive through the centre of Geneva,
Helbronner

Helbronner
which can add delays to your journey.
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Driving from the UK
Driving your own car is a good choice if you plan an
extended stay, or have a lot of kit. It also gives you
the option of bailing out to the Provence sport crags
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
should the weather turn nasty. It takes eight hours to
drive from Calais to Chamonix if you just go for it, but
going via Paris and Fontainebleau is only half an hour
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
longer. These times assume that you will use the toll
roads, which cost roughly €80 and are well worth it.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
The situation mentioned above re Geneva applies for
the motorway vignette - avoid the motorways through
the city and it will be slow, but you will save yourself
some money.
AR- Index

AR- Index
Parking Spots
GPS 45.916260
The parking spots where the main
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
6.870244
Tim Oliver approaching the summit of the Petit Dru approaches start from are indicated with

scan for map

with most of the massif behind. The Moine and its a precise GPS location. You can either
West Face in the foreground, the Grandes Jorasses use the number or just point your phone
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
in the top left, the Rochefort and Dent du Géant in
the centre and, in the far distant, the Tour Ronde, camera at the QR code to open the
Entrèves and Flambeau. Photo: Luke Davies coordinates direct into a navigation app.
 28 Chamonix Logistics Getting Around

Lifts It is possible to pay for each lift individually.

Glacier du Tour

Use them! Chamonix's mountains are Prices are for a return ticket, one way tickets
legendary, not only for their beauty but also are roughly 25% cheaper.
because they are so easy to access using Aiguille du Midi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €69.00
Gl. d'Argentière

the valley's incredible lift system. Many an Plan de l'Aiguille. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €35.50

alpine trip has been a flop because tight Panoramique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €32.00
climbers have tried to save money and wore Grands Montets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €20.00
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

themselves out walking up to routes instead. Le Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €32.00

When you consider how much your kit, Brévent. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €35.50
travel to Chamonix and accommodation has Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €32.00
already cost, and how precious each day of Montenvers Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . €35.50
an alpine climbing trip is, the extra expense Tramway du Mont Blanc. . . . . . . . . €34.00
of using the lifts is well worth paying for. Prices correct for summer 2022 but tend to
Grandes Jorasses

creep up a Euro or two every year. Passes

Opening Times - The Aiguille du Midi is are available at the lift stations.
open virtually all year (it closes for 3 to 4 All the lifts in Chamonix are operated by the
Envers des Aiguilles

weeks in November for maintenance). Compagnie du Mont Blanc.

The Helbronner cable car from Courmayeur compagniedumontblanc.fr
is open all year but the Panoramique lift
Public Transport
Plan de l'Aiguille

which links the Helbronner and Aiguille du

Midi is only open in the summer season. One of the reasons Chamonix is so popular
The Montenvers train is open from mid is that you don't need a car to get there or to
December until mid-September but closes move around once you arrive. The train from
Aiguille du Midi

for at least 6 weeks every autumn. Geneva airport to Chamonix is expensive

The Grands Montets is open for the winter and takes over 3 hours but airport transfers
season from mid December to early May and are very reasonable at €25 - €35 each way
Helbronner

then reopens for summer in July and August. and take roughly 1 hour 15 minutes.
The lifts at Le Tour, Brévent and Flégère are
all open for skiing in winter and from mid Once in the Chamonix valley there is a train
Mont Blanc du Tacul

June to mid September for climbing. from St Gervais to Vallorcine. For climbers
wanting to visit the crags of Barberine
Cost - If you are planning to spend multiple there is a further train which carries on
Mont Blanc

days climbing in the valley, then the best from Vallorcine to Châtelard. There is also
option is to buy a Mont Blanc Multipass. a regular bus service from the train station
This enables you to choose how many at St Gervais to Les Contamines-Montjoie,
days of lift usage you need, and whether where the routes in the Tré la Tête chapter
Tré la Tête

you'd prefer the days to be consecutive or are approached from.

non-consecutive.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

For consecutive days, the pass costs There is also a good network of buses
€120 for 5 days, €170 for 9 days. The serving all corners of the valley, from Les
non-consecutive option is 2 days for €96 or 3 Houches to Le Tour. Up-to-date bus and train
days for €108. The full summer season pass timetables can be found at the Chamonix
AR- Index

is €515. Tourist Office.

The Mont Blanc Multipass don't cover the
Panoramique lift between the Aiguille du Midi For routes approached from, or descending
AR - Vallorcine

and the Helbronner or the Italian lifts. The into, the Italian side of the massif, it is
Tramway du Mont Blanc and Prarion gondola possible to get a bus through the Mont Blanc
are both included. Tunnel to Courmayeur. Further buses can
Valley Cragging

be taken to the valleys of Val Veni and Val

Ferret, where some routes begin and end.
 30 Chamonix Logistics Where to Stay Where to Stay Chamonix Logistics 31
Tim Exley on a stunning bivvi near the summit of the Dru after
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
climbing the American Direct (ED1) - p.128. Photo: Luke Davies
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Helbronner

Helbronner
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Hotels, Hostels and Apartments
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
For those not keen on camping, Chamonix
Camping has plenty more on offer. There are several
There are numerous campsites in the hostel-type options with shared bathroom
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
Chamonix Valley that cater for tents, facilities, and these cost €21 - €25 per night
caravans and campervans. Generally these for a bed in a dormitory. There is also a
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
are fairly cramped but the facilities are good large selection of hotels, from (relatively)
and always clean. Each person, tent and cheap and cheerful options costing roughly
car is charged individually so prices can €100 per night, right through to 5-star luxury
add up but camping remains the best value choices. The various hostels and hotels are
AR- Index

AR- Index
accommodation in the valley. Expect to pay accustomed to walkers and climbers and
something in the region of €5.50 - €9 per often have a boot room where you can dry
person, €7 - €10 per pitch and €3 - €4 for out kit or leave muddy boots.
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
an electric hook-up per day. Prices vary There is also a large selection of chalets
between low and high season (July and and self-catered apartments ranging from
August). Campsites are indicated on the single room studios costing roughly €400 -
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
maps and unlike the old days, wild camping €600 per week to enormous chalets which
in the valley is no longer permitted. may be out of most people's financial range.
 32 Chamonix Logistics Refuges and Bivouac Shelters Refuges and Bivouac Shelters Chamonix Logistics 33
The following is a list of the staffed refuges Envers des Aiguilles Tré la Tête
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Refuges in the areas covered by this book. Refuge d'Envers des Aiguilles Refuge des Conscrits . . . . +33 479 890903
Refuges (or 'Rifugios' - in Italian) are . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +33 450 531603 Refuge de Tré la Tête . . . . . +33 450 470168
mountain huts which offer full board
Glacier du Tour
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
accommodation in dormitory rooms. Aiguilles Rouges
Refuge Albert Premier . . . . +33 450 531603 Aiguille du Midi/Mont Blanc du Tacul
Generally refuges are warm, dry and Cabane du Trient . . . . . . . +41 277 831438 Refuge des Cosmiques . . . +33 450 544016 Refuge du Lac Blanc . . . . . +33 450 534914
welcoming but fairly basic. A sleeping bag Refuge de Loriaz . . . . . . . +33 652 536973
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

is not required as blankets are provided, Glacier de Charpoua Helbronner/Mont Blanc du Tacul
but a thin sleeping bag liner is sometimes Refuge de la Charpoua . . . +33 667 250866 Rifugio Torino . . . . . . . . . +39 165 844034
expected and ensures a more pleasant
night in the highly likely event that the hut Glacier d'Argentière Mont Blanc
blankets are a bit grubby and threadbare. Refuge d'Argentière . . . . . +33 450 531603 Refuge du Goûter . . . . . . +33 450 544093
Generally you can choose to stay 'demi- N.B. The Refuge du Goûter can only be booked
pension/mezza pensione' (half board)
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Glacier de Talèfre online at refugedugouter.ffcam.fr
which will usually be a set three course Refuge du Couvercle . . . . . +33 450 531694 Refuge Tête Rousse . . . . . +33 450 582497
meal and a basic breakfast; 'petit déjeuner/ Refuge de Nid d'Aigle . . . . +33 450 477623
con prima colazione' (bed and breakfast) Refuge des Cosmiques . . . +33 450 544016
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Grandes Jorasses Rifugio du Gonella . . . . . . +39 165 885101
or 'seulement nuit/solo pernottamento' Refuge de Leschaux . . . . . +33 636 953264 Rifugio Monzino . . . . . . . +39 165 809553
(bed only). In some refuges half board is Rifugio Boccalatte . . . . . . +39 165 844070 Refuge Durier . . . . . . . . . +33 689 532510
compulsory. Breakfast is served at whatever
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
time you request but often this means that
the guardian leaves breakfast out for you
the night before rather than getting up to
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
serve you. In refuges offering only a bed,
a cooking area is provided and there is
sometimes running water.
Prices range from €13.50 for just a bed
Helbronner

Helbronner
through to €90 for half board in some of the
most expensive French and Swiss refuges.
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Any bottled water, drinks or snacks will
be extra, as will a packed lunch, which is
offered in most places. Credit cards are
not universally accepted so taking cash is
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
the best option. A membership card to a
European alpine club gives roughly a €10
discount on half board or bed and breakfast.
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
It is advised to book refuge places in
advance but if you do turn up last minute,
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
you will rarely be turned away. Most refuge
guardians speak some English but, if you Bivouac Shelters
are struggling, any tourist office in the Bivouac shelters are generally little more than a metal
Chamonix Valley can make reservations shed with some bunk beds and a small area to cook in,
AR- Index

AR- Index
for you. Any huts mentioned in this book but they do provide convenient and well-located shelters.
but not listed here are unmanned and Most have blankets and as such a sleeping bag is usually
reservations are not required. Almost all not required, though you may be glad of a sleeping bag
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
staffed huts have a very basic winter room liner. You do need to take your own cooking equipment
which do not require a reservation and and food. There is no reservation system for bivouac huts
will be open in low season, whenever no so they can often be full; turning up early is advised if you
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
guardian is present. Being able to see spectacular alpine sunsets
want a bed in a popular hut in peak season. When full
are one of the great perks of sleeping up
high in the mountains. Photo: Luke Davies there are often DIY bivvy locations nearby.
 34 Chamonix Logistics Shops and Tourist Information Shops and Tourist Information Chamonix Logistics 35
4km Tim Oliver and Jake Holland climbing the New Piola Route (TD+)
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Argentière
- p.375 - on the South Face of the Brévent. Photo: Luke Davies
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Index

D1056
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Le Lavancher

Les Tines Grands

Montets

Les Bois
Les Praz
Servoz Brévent OHM Montenvers
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Chamonix

Centre Sportif
Richard Bozon
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Mont Blanc Les Pelerins Mer de
Escalade Glace

N205
Les Bossons
Shopping
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Tunnel du Refuge
Mont Blanc
Les Chauvants Taconnaz Campsite
Climbing Wall
Les Houches Tourist Information
Hospital
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Tourist Information Opening Times
Chamonix, Les Houches and Argentière all Most shops, supermarkets and services
Helbronner

Helbronner
have tourist information offices which provide close for an extended lunch break, usually
excellent information on shops, services, from around 12pm to 3pm. On Sundays,
accommodation and events. They will also virtually every shop is closed so stock up on
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

help you book a refuge if your French isn't Saturday! Restaurants, bars and refuges are
good. always open on a Sunday.
Chamonix Tourist Office
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
+33 450 530024 Climbing Shops
Les Houches Tourist Office If you like gear shops, you'll enjoy Chamonix
+33 450 555062 and its surrounding villages. As well as
Argentière Tourist Office
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
a number of brand-specific shops there
+33 450 540214 are numerous large outdoor shops selling
everything you could need for an alpine trip.
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Supermarkets Chamonix - Snell Sports
The Chamonix Valley has a selection of Chamonix - Technique Extreme
small supermarkets and, for those with a Chamonix - Decathlon
car, there are several large supermarkets in Chamonix - Ravanel
AR- Index

AR- Index
Sallanches down the valley westwards. Chamonix - Alplib (a book shop with an
Chamonix also has some pleasant, if a little excellent selection of maps and guidebooks).
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
expensive, specialist shops selling various Argentière - Hurycana Sports
local meats, cheeses and wine. Sallanches - For those with a car, the
huge Decathlon Mountain store and the
comprehensive Aux Vieux Campeur are well
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
worth a few hours of a rainy rest day.
 36 Chamonix Logistics Other Activities Other Activities Chamonix Logistics 37

Walking Museums
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
The walking in Chamonix is superb For those with an interest in the history of
and offers views of some of the world's alpinism, Chamonix is an excellent place to
best known peaks. The paths are well indulge your passion. The Alpine Museum,
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
signposted and there is a good network of Guides Office and, morbid as it may sound,
mountain huts to provide refreshments and Chamonix cemetery are all worth a visit to
accommodation. pay your respects to the pioneers.
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Skiing Wet Weather Options
As much as Chamonix is famous as a hot With a huge range of outdoor shops,
spot for climbing and alpinism, it is arguably museums and nice cafes, passing a rainy
more famous for its skiing. From Dec - May day in Chamonix is rarely a problem. For
there is world class skiing to be had on and those with a lift pass, getting a workout on a
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
off the lift systems from the pistes to 'the rainy day by hiking up to a cable car station
steeps'. and then descending on the lift is a popular
option, albeit not a particularly restful one.
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

Paragliding
For a different perspective over the Swimming
mountains, paragliding is an interesting There is a large public swimming bath in the
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
option and can be easily organised in Centre Sportif Richard Bozon with an indoor
Chamonix. Take off options are numerous, and outdoor pool - map p.34.
with Brévent and the Plan de l'Aiguille being Down the valley on the way to Sallanches is
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
the most popular. Lac de Passy - an outdoor swimming lake.
Take some beers and a barbeque for a full
Road Biking relaxing day out.
Helbronner

Helbronner
With only one bike-friendly road into and
out of the valley, Chamonix is not an ideal Indoor Climbing
road biking venue in itself. However, those Finally for those who don't want to go a
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

with a car can drive to some stunning areas day without training, there are two climbing
nearby, particularly the Aravis range to the walls open to the public in the valley. There
west of the Mont Blanc Massif. For road are other indoor walls but these are for
biking in the valley, going from the MBC pub members only and require an application
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
on the outskirts of Chamonix town centre to process.
the Col des Montets makes for a good time
trial course. Mont Blanc Escalade (+33 450 54 76 48)
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
In Les Houches, this is a popular lead
Mountain Biking climbing wall, with 14m routes. There is also
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Mountain biking is a fast growing sport a very small bouldering area. Map p.34.
in the Chamonix area and whilst not as
famous as its nearby neighbours, it is Chamonix (+33 450 53 23 70)
becoming a destination in its own right. Part of the Centre Sportif Richard Bozon,
AR- Index

AR- Index
Les Houches and La Tour provide access this small bouldering wall is well located but
to numerous downhill trails all summer and can be busy at peak times.
there is also an excellent network of cross
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
country tracks. Chamonix town centre has a More Information
number of mountain biking shops and bikes The web site Chamonix.net has a lot of
for hire. options for all sorts of activities throughout
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Luke Davies enjoying nice powder conditions in the Aiguilles Rouges - skiing is a
the year including canyoning, rafting, great complementary activity to climbing in the winter and a pretty essential skill for
kayaking, via ferrata and golf. those wanting to climb in the mountains in the winter months. Photo: Jake Holland
 Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
39

and before paragliding back down. Photo: Jake Holland

Verte after a solo of the Couturier Couloir (D) - p.111 -
Giulia Monego on the summit slopes of the Aiguille
Chamonix
Skills
38
Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
 40 Chamonix Skills Fitness Fitness Chamonix Skills 41
Part of the appeal of alpinism is that it is a
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
test of so many skills beyond just climbing.
Route selection, gear choice, complicated
approaches, lengthy descents and objective
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
dangers all have to be considered, as does
the physical and technical capability of a
team. Here are some of the things that can
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

catch people out and a few ideas about how
to prepare for an alpine climbing trip.

Fitness
Alpinism requires higher levels of all-body
fitness than rock climbing because it involves
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
covering lots of terrain over a long period of
time. On a typical alpine climb the day starts
early, often with a multi-hour walk in mountain
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

boots. Then follows a long and technical
climb, a tricky and potentially dangerous
descent, then finally another long walk. Factor
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
in that you will carry a rucksack and likely
be at more than 3000m above sea level for
much of the time. All this after a night spent
in a mountain hut which was unlikely to have
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
been a vintage night's sleep, and certainly a
short one, and the challenge becomes even
greater.
Helbronner

Helbronner
Any form of cardiovascular exercise will help
to prepare for an alpine trip, but walking or
running uphill is the most effective. Gym work,
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

in the form of lifting weights is also beneficial
and for those lacking access to a gym, body
weight squats, lunges, pushups and pull-ups
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
are all excellent and simple ways of improving
strength.
Ultimately, the best way to prepare for an
alpine trip is to replicate it by linking together
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
multiple rock climbs or scrambles and doing
plenty of walking in between them to give
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
yourself some long days out. The mountains
of North Wales are great in this respect,
Tryfan and Cwm Idwal in particular offer lots
of options to join relatively easy routes with
AR- Index

AR- Index
walking sections to create excellent long days.
The Lake District and Scotland have plenty of
similar options.
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Joe Brindley approaching the characteristic Demi-Lune of the
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Kuffner Ridge (D) - p.288 at sunrise. In the distance are the
Gervasutti Couloir and Rébuffat Gully on the Tour Ronde, and behind
are the Aiguille de Toule and Marbrées Traverse. Photo: Luke Davies
 42 Chamonix Skills Alpine Skills Alpine Skills Chamonix Skills 43
One of the most important alpine skills is the low. Coming away from an alpine trip with Abseiling
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
ability to move quickly at all times. Get up half a dozen easier routes in the bag is Although most climbers can happily make
early, walk in quickly, climb quickly, descend far preferable to going home with a list of single abseils, doing multiple abseils quickly
quickly and walk back out. Climbers who glorious failures on tougher climbs. and safely is a very different skill and a
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
dawdle and take in the view, or faff over gear You should also take account of current vital one. As a rough time guide when
on easy pitches seldom make good alpine conditions when choosing your route - see descending, completing one abseil every 10
climbers, especially if they end up blocking a weather on p.47 minutes is about right and allows for more
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

route for other teams. accurate planning and time management
Route Finding (ie. if a descent requires six abseils, then
Moving Together Route finding in Chamonix is generally not you should aim to complete these in one
Moving together means both climbers as tough as in some alpine areas because hour). The 10 minutes is based on the
climbing at once, with the leader placing the routes in the Mont Blanc Massif usually assumption that the abseil anchors are
runners and the second removing them, and follow prominent features. That said, already in place; if you have to build your
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
taking belays only occasionally to switch over locating the correct descent and navigating own then it will take much longer.
or re-gear. Many climbers are nervous about across glaciers, often by headtorch, are Both climbers should be busy with rope
moving together but when done correctly it complete skill sets in themselves and can management and preparing for the next abseil
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

be the toughest part of an alpine route. for the whole time during a descent. If you are
is a relatively safe way of covering moderate
Understanding where and how crevasses not, then you are not efficient enough!
ground very quickly. Provided that there are
a couple of pieces of good protection and form is essential and can be learned partly
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
never more than a few metres of slack rope, through reading about glaciers, partly
a fall is unlikely to be disastrous (and better through common sense and mainly by
than an unroped fall). That said, if protection spending time travelling in and analysing
crevassed terrain.
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
is unavailable, or very poor, consider
moving unroped since you are doubling your One issue to be aware of is that there are
chances of a serious fall with two of you tied many hard routes in the Mont Blanc Massif
together if you have no decent gear in place. that we have not described and that you
Helbronner

Helbronner
When moving together, having roughly are likely to find fixed gear when climbing in
30m of rope between climbers is usually the area, from pegs to bolted belays, which
are part of a line not included in this book.
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

about right, though more or less may be
appropriate on certain terrain. Extending Seeing gear does not indicate that you are
runners will reduce rope drag - which can be on the right route and blindly following a line
the cause of much friction, both literal and of pegs of bolts is not a good idea.
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
social! Knowing what a specific grade should look
like on the rock is an important skill. You
need to be able to make an assessment of
Route Choice where the route is likely to go based on the
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
The dangers associated with alpinism
grade you are supposed to be climbing. This
make route choice even more vital than in
can only be developed by gaining experience
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
most climbing areas. The key to making
on a specific rock type.
good decisions is to gather the maximum
It is worth spending some time studying your
information about routes and conditions that
proposed route from a distance, committing
you can, and to be honest about the ability
the route line to memory and mentally
AR- Index

AR- Index
of you and your partner.
marking key features; an obvious-looking line
Leading HVS rock climbs wearing rock
seen from the ground is nearly always less
shoes, clipping solid gear every few metres
apparent once on the route. Similarly, taking
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
and taking plenty of time over it does not
time from a hut, or lift station, to study and
translate into leading an HVS alpine pitch
try to understand that subtleties of a glacier
quickly in big boots, with limited protection Tom Seccombe abseiling into the depths of the
will most likely make your approach and
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
and carrying a rucksack! If in doubt, aim Cunningham Couloir on approach to climb Vent
return much easier to navigate. du Dragon (TD) - p.262 - on the Northwest Face
of the Aiguille du Midi. Photo: Luke Davies
 44 Chamonix Skills Alpine Dangers Alpine Dangers Chamonix Skills 45
In addition to the normal climbing dangers (falling off), alpinism involves a whole host of Bergschrunds
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
other potential dangers which need to be understood and managed if an acceptable safety Bergschrunds are large crevasses which
margin is to be maintained. separate the edge of a glacier from a
mountain and no matter how innocuous
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Glacier Travel they look, they deserve respect and
When travelling on a wet glacier (one that is snow covered and is not simply blue ice) then a cautious approach; looks are often
deceiving. On some routes, such as Petit
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

roping up correctly is essential, as is carrying, and knowing how to use, a full crevasse
rescue kit. Viking (p.101) on the Pointe du Domino
For reasons understood only by the protagonists, certain glaciated parts of the Mont near Mont Dolent, crossing the bergschrund
Blanc Massif (particularly around the Aiguille du Midi) seem to have been deemed safe is widely recognised as being the crux of
enough to walk around on unroped by some climbers, possibly due to the sheer number of the route!
people travelling on them. Given that the Pointes Lachenal near the Aiguille du Midi is so Crossing bergschrunds ('rimayes' in French)
named because legendary French alpinist Louis Lachenal died in a crevasse fall nearby, is best done by one climber being 20m or
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
the stupidity of not roping up should be obvious. Numerous crevasse falls occur on well- so downhill of the bergschrund and belaying
travelled and long established paths across glaciers. their partner as they approach and cross
Learning and refining crevasse rescue skills takes time but it is vital. Before an alpine the gap. This climber should then build a
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

trip, get plenty of practice holding simulated crevasse falls, setting up different anchors belay above it and bring up their partner.
and hauling systems and prussiking up ropes. For some real life practice it is highly Crossing the bergschrund can involve a
recommended to take the Montenvers train up and walk down to the Mer de Glace which (in large step and/or climbing some difficult soft
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
its lower section) is a dry glacier and provides a perfect spot to try out different systems and snow. Bergschrunds change quickly with
equipment. The scenery isn't bad either! weather and conditions so take care when
dealing with them.
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Seracs
Seracs are large blocks of glacial ice which
are formed as glaciers move downhill. They
Helbronner

Helbronner
can often become overhanging on steeper
ground, at which point they are liable to
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

collapse and fall, causing devastation to
anyone caught below. Passing under seracs
can sometimes be unavoidable and the
best way to minimise the danger is to move
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
as quickly as possible. Take a short break
before going under them, drink some water
and have a bite to eat and then keep going
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
once underway.
Probably the best known areas of seracs
above Chamonix are on Mont Blanc's Trois
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
Monts Route (p.335). These have collapsed
with disastrous consequences several times
in the past decade but it is worth keeping in
perspective that thousands of climbers pass
AR- Index

AR- Index
safely under them every year.
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Jon Gupta climbing high on Pointe Médiane
on the Arête du Diable Traverse (D) - p.299 -
on Mont Blanc du Tacul. Photo: Luke Davies
 46 Chamonix Skills Alpine Dangers Alpine Dangers Chamonix Skills 47

Rockfall Weather Weather/Avalanche Forecasts

Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Rockfall danger is increasing as the earth's Many routes are committing to the point Chamonix is well served with weather
climate warms up. Snow and ice-filled faces that retreat is extremely difficult if not forecast websites. The best known is
and couloirs are the main areas of danger impossible. Choosing a route which fits chamonix-meteo.com but chamonix.
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
so be aware of what is above you, and how the weather forecast is essential because com/meteo (where the avalanche bulletin
the weather will affect its stability, when being stuck high up on a long climb when a can also be found in winter), yr.no and
climbing on or below these features. thunderstorm arrives is extremely serious. meteoblue.com are also excellent.
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

Generally, rockfall danger is lowest during The weather in the Alps often deteriorates in Amalgamating different forecasts is advised
the night when temperatures are below the afternoon (particularly in early summer) as there can be some differences.
freezing, but if there is no overnight freeze, so if the weather forecast is predicting a The weather forecast (and avalanche
rockfall is a constant danger during the day possible thunderstorm later in the day, pick bulletin in winter) are posted every day
and night. a route that will almost certainly not take outside the Office de Haute Montagne
There are two key ways of minimising more than a few hours. Even if there is no (OHM) in the centre of Chamonix.
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
rockfall danger - correct choice of route and thunderstorm forecast, keep a close eye on
getting up early. In the height of summer, the weather and only commit to continuing
the best option is to simply avoid routes with to climb when the sky is clear.
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

the potential of rockfall danger.
All the routes in the Aiguilles Rouges, many
of the granite rock climbs, and just about
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
any route which follows a ridge throughout,
should be safe even in hot conditions, so
avoiding snowy faces and couloirs shouldn't
limit your choice too much.
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
If there is a good overnight freeze, and you
do a route which could have rockfall danger,
getting up early is always advised. It is far
Helbronner

Helbronner
better to be already above a potentially
dangerous area and waiting for the sun to
come up than below a dangerous area,
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

desperately racing to beat the heat! A good
example of this can be seen in the Grand
Couloir on Mont Blanc's popular Goûter
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Route (p.339) which can be extremely
dangerous in the middle of the day but
relatively benign in the dead of night when
all the loose stuff is frozen solid.
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
AR- Index

AR- Index
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Tim Oliver swinging round into the sun on the Petit Dru after a
winter ascent of The North Face (TD+) - p.126. Photo: Luke Davies
 Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
49

(ED1) - p.134 - Aiguille de Moine. Photo: Luke Davies

Tom Seccombe on the fantastic cracks of Sale Athée
Chamonix
Climbing
48
Glacier du Tour Gl. d'Argentière Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête AR- Brévent/Planpraz AR- Index AR - Vallorcine Valley Cragging
 50 Chamonix Climbing Guiding Services

Guiding Services Employing a guide for a few days can also be

Glacier du Tour

There are many mountain guides operating in extremely beneficial to climbers looking to 'learn
the Chamonix area. A guided itinerary can be an the ropes'. UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guides are
excellent way of seeing the mountains for those superb instructors and hiring one at the start of
Gl. d'Argentière

with insufficient experience to feel safe attempting an alpine trip is an excellent way of learning the
them alone, or for those who simply wish to skills needed in the high mountains.
complete a route in the company of other people. The following guiding agencies are friendly,
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Guiding offices offer either tailored itineraries to professional, flexible and able to guide all types
suit specific needs of a party or individual, or of routes and instruct alpine skills.
a set weekly programme on some of the most
popular routes in Chamonix. John McCune - See opposite
Options, depending on the season, include mccunemountaineering.co.uk
high mountain alpine adventures, trad climbing,
In order to guide or instruct in the Chamonix
modern multi-pitch sport routes, a day at a sport
crag, via ferrata, glacier trekking or ice climbing. mountains, guides must hold the UIAGM/ John McCune - Mountain Guide
Grandes Jorasses

IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide qualification.

Envers des Aiguilles

Guiding and Instruction:

Plan de l'Aiguille

Alpine Rock Climbing

Ice and Mixed
Aiguille du Midi

Classic Peaks
Off Piste Skiing
Helbronner
Mont Blanc du Tacul

www.mccunemountaineering.co.uk
Mont Blanc
Tré la Tête
AR- Brévent/Planpraz
AR- Index
AR - Vallorcine

Joe Brindley on the fantastic Fidel Fiasco

Valley Cragging

(ED2) - p.223 - on the Red Pillar Area of

the Blaitière - a great spot for one-day
granite cragging. Photo: Luke Davies
 52 Chamonix Climbing Gear Gear Chamonix Climbing 53

Gear Slings
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Outside the Aiguilles Rouges and valley cragging Slings are light, quick to place and have many
chapters, there are no routes which can be functions, so take lots of them. Some tat should
climbed entirely on fixed gear. As such, a rack also be taken for equalising and backing up abseil
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
of gear is necessary to climb most routes in this anchors (don't be afraid to take a knife to some of
book. The size and nature of the rack required for the stations and clear out old tat).
each route depends on the ability of the team, A set of prussiks is mandatory for the many abseil
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

the difficulty and nature of the climbing and the descents and for potential hauls and rescues.
length of the route. Judging what to take and what A belay plate that can operate in 'guide mode'
to leave behind is an important skill for an alpine is advisable to assist with moving quickly, and
climber and can only be learned through (often doubling up as an abseil device. Finally a good
bitter!) experience. number of longer extenders is advised to help
keep rope drag to a minimum.
Runners
Shoes
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
Several pages could be dedicated to the
discussion about which runners are required for For all routes outside the Valley Cragging and
alpine climbing. As a general rule, the granite Aiguilles Rouges chapters of this book a pair of
above Chamonix is well featured and swallows B2 or B3 mountaineering boots is advisable to
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

climbing protection. The uniform nature of most of approach and descend from your climb. Mixed and
the cracks means that cams are more useful than lower-grade rock climbs can also be done in these
wires. On harder rock climbs it is often better to boots but for technical rock, a pair of rock shoes
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
take a double rack of cams than one set of cams will be required. Given the length of the routes,
and a set of wires. Indeed, having a set of wires comfortable rock shoes are a better choice than
on a granite rock route can often be a giveaway tight, high-performance ones.
that you are not a local! Most of the cracks in
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Chamonix are at least finger-sized so a micro-cam Bivvy Gear
or two can be handy. Some routes, such as the Tournier Spur Direct
(p.107) on Les Droites and Peuterey Integrale
Ropes
Helbronner

Helbronner
(p.355) on Mont Blanc, are so long that a bivouac
Trad - Deciding whether to take one or two is essential for most people. If you are planning
ropes is often one of the toughest calls in alpine to bivvy on a face you will need other gear such
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

climbing. The decision will depend on the nature as extra warm clothing, or a sleeping bag, extra
of the climbing (does the route wander or is it food and plenty of water. For shorter routes the
fairly direct?); the technical difficulty of the route decision about whether to take bivouac kit can be
and what the descent entails. One rope wins for a tough one. The old adage that, if you take bivvy
simplicity and weight but two offers the possibility kit, you'll need it, is still true today but going fast
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
for longer abseils and reduces the potential for and light carries its own risks as well. As with gear
time consuming rope drag issues. A single and and rope selection, experience and judgement is
a tag-line can work well for longer alpine routes required to make a well-informed decision.
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
offering simplicity and low weight (or a potential
bailout option on routes that go up and over). Other Gear
Sport routes - A single rope is recommended for
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
The scale of the routes above Chamonix means
sport climbing in the valley. Some routes require a that you will need a rucksack on most routes. One
70m rope but you will get by with a 60m rope for certainty is that, if a route requires crossing a wet
most of the pitches. glacier at any stage, then full crevasse rescue kit
and the ability to use it is vital.
AR- Index

AR- Index
Ice Axe(s) jm Carry some extra food and water in case of
All mixed ice climbs described require technical emergency plus a small first aid kit.
axes - a hammer and an adze. Many of the ridges A lightweight windproof/waterproof layer is advised
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
and longer mixed routes require at least one axe and a knife for cutting old tat out of the way.
for negotiating the snow and ice sections. Regard A headtorch for each climber is essential.
the axe symbol (above) shown with the routes as Crack gloves can be particularly useful for the
a rough guide but please use your own judgement coarse granite climbs.
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Freja Shannon on the upper section of
as to whether you need none, one or two axes on Poles for the steep approaches and descents. the Contamine Bastien (TD+) - p.132 -
a given route. Dru - South Face. Photo: Luke Davies
 54 Chamonix Climbing Grades Grades Chamonix Climbing 55

Alpine Grade Table Alpine Grade Sport Grade Aid, Free, 'Obligatoire'
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
The Alpine grade takes into account the Sport grades are used for single and multi- Traditionally, rock climbs in the Mont Blanc
Sport Alpine Grade UIAA USA overall seriousness of a route, not just the pitch sport climbing in the Brévent and the Massif were given a free climbing grade and
I 5.1 technical difficulty. Even if a route is well within Chamonix valley crags. an obligatory grade. The 'obligatoire' (or obl.)
1
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
your technical level, the glacial approach and grade refers to the difficulty of the climbing
2 F II 5.2 objective dangers can make it a much more Colour Coding assuming that you pull on the fixed gear at
serious proposition than it would otherwise be The colour-coded dot represents a level that every opportunity. For example '5b/A0 or 7a'
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

2+ III+
5.3 in a smaller, non-glaciated range. a climber should be happy at, hence valley means that the move is 7a if done free, but
Alpine grades are the standard grading only 5b if you pull on the fixed gear.
3a PD- 5.4 system for the Mont Blanc Massif, where most
sport routes tend to be technically harder than
A0, A1, A2,... are aid grades indicating
IV- equivalent alpine routes.
climbing protection is hand-placed and/or increasing difficulty of using the actual aid,
3b PD 5.5 contains fluctuating levels of fixed protection Alpine Routes Sport Routes although in most cases in this book the aid
IV (pegs or bolts). 1 Up to PD+ Up to 4c moves are straightforward A0 or A1 moves.
3c 5.6 This provide an overall grade, based on the We have given most routes a free climbing
2 AD- to D 5a to 6a+
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
4a IV+ length, difficulty and seriousness of the climb. grade with easier aid options mentioned.
3 D+ to TD+ 6b to 7a
In some cases we have given the route an
PD+ 5.7
4b V- F - Facile (easy) 4 ED1 and above 7a+ and above overall grade assuming use of a little aid. This
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

PD - Peu Difficile has been done in cases where virtually every
4c AD- V 5.8 AD - Assez Difficile In other books a white spot is used for routes of ascent is done in this style, usually because of
AD V+ D - Difficile 8a/f8A and upwards. There aren't any of those in a disproportionately hard crux move.
5a ED1 - Extrêment Difficile this book so it is not included.
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
5.9
5b AD+ VI- ED2, ED3 and upwards
D-
5c D VI 5.10a Commitment Grade
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
D+ The first line of most route descriptions has
6a TD- VI+ 5.10b a commitment grade, a route length and a
6a+ TD VII- 5.10c
rough climbing time. The Roman numeral
Helbronner

Helbronner
commitment grade refers to the overall
6b VII 5.10d
seriousness of the route, which is determined
by the route length, overall difficulties, difficulty
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

6b+ TD+ VII+ 5.11a of the approach and descent, the level of
objective hazard, the difficulty of retreat once
6c ED1 5.11b on the climb and the time it takes an average
VIII- team to complete it. This should not be
6c+
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
5.11c confused with UIAA grades.
VIII
7a ED2 5.11d
I - Short route with easy access.
VIII+
7a+
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
5.12a II - Short or medium length route with easy
approach and descent.
7b IX-
5.12b III - Longer route or longer approach and more
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
difficult descent.
Alpine Technical Grade IV - Long route with more difficult approach
The technical grade refers to the hardest and a more complex and lengthy descent.
section of climbing on the route. For V - Long route in a more remote area. Difficult
AR- Index

AR- Index
predominantly rock climbs, sport climbing approach and descent, often done over
grades are used with each pitch. On multiple days.
predominantly mixed terrain or ice, technical VI - Very long and serious with a difficult
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
grades from 1 (easy cramponing or mixed approach and descent in a remote area
scrambling) to 7 (steep, sustained and will often take multiple days.
extremely technical climbing) are used.
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Will Harris on the Voie Couzy (TD-) - p.213
- on the Aiguille de l'M. Photo: Luke Davies
 56 Chamonix Climbing Route Timings and Length Route Timings and Length Chamonix Climbing 57

Route Timings Route Lengths

Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Climb times are given for most routes other In addition to a grade, routes are also given
than pitched rock climbs. These times are a a length. Virtually all route lengths refer to
suggestion of what the average ascent time is the vertical height gain. For some routes,
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
from the bottom to the top of a given route. It such as traverses, which climb and descend
doesn't include the approach time to the crag repeatedly, a vertical route length is not a
nor does it include descent time and you need useful way of suggesting how long a climb
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

to factor these in when calculating timings. will take and is also difficult information to
Pitched rock climbs aren't given timings interpret. In these cases we have given the
since these can vary from team to team. As routes approximate horizontal distance.
a general rule allowing 20 to 30 minutes per
pitch is a good target to aim for.
Please keep in mind that the times given
are approximate but conditions change and
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
being slightly outside a suggested time is
not necessarily a disaster. However, if you
are consistently slower than the suggested
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

times then consider whether your fitness,
acclimatisation and climbing skill are suitable
for the routes you are attempting.
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Helbronner

Helbronner
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
AR- Index

AR- Index
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
John McCune climbing up to the junction of the Rébuffat-Terray
(TD) and Beyond Good and Evil (ED2) - p.225 - on the Aiguille des
Pelerins - after climbing the lower part of the latter. Photo: Luke Davies
 58 Chamonix Climbing Other Areas Other Areas Chamonix Climbing 59
One of Chamonix's great strengths as an Martigny Area
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
Alpine climbing destination is its position in Beyond Barberine and Gietroz, the road
the centre of the Western Alps. This means weaves its way over the Col de Forclaz
that, if the weather is not conducive to and down to the Swiss town of Martigny.
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
your chosen style of climbing in the local Around the Martigny area are a range of
Chamonix valley, then there is often other sport crags, both single and multi-pitch such
areas within a couple of hours drive that as Dorénaz and Ravoire (see free app 'Les
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

might provide a good alternative. Carnets d'Escalade'). For those looking for
Here are some suggestions of other places more mountainous adventures, the Miroir de
to consider. l'Argentine boasts long multi-pitche routes
and a ridge traverse. A quick drive up to the
Arve Valley Champex lift system also gives access to the
Chamonix's best kept secret is the fantastic far side of the Mont Blanc Massif and some
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
limestone sport climbing in the Arve valley. brilliant granite climbing on the Petit Clocher
The crags can be anywhere from 20 minutes du Portalet and around the Cabane d'Orny.
drive to an hour away and are a good option
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

if the weather is bad at altitude. The climbing Valaisian Alps
style here is pretty old school and can feel For those looking for more Alpine options,
hard for the grade for newcomers. There is if the conditions aren't conducive to what
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
a large number of crags but some standouts you are looking for in the Chamonix area,
include the single pitch crag of Bionnassay then the alpine climbing bases of Zermatt,
above St. Gervais, and the mini-big walls Saas Fee, Arolla and Zinal are all less than
of Maladière, Vuardes, Tours d'Areu and
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
2.5 hours drive. This can often be a good
La Balme that all provide adventurous option for snow routes later in the season as
multi-pitch routes. For those that feel that the mountains, on the whole, are higher so
way inclined, the nearest dry-tooling crags often the glacier conditions hold out better
Helbronner

Helbronner
are also found down here at La Fayet and and there are more options. Due to the much
the Zoo. poorer quality of rock found in the Valais, the
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

routes tend to follow ridgelines so there isn't
Aosta Valley a great deal of technical rock-based routes in
Often the weather on the other side of the summer months.
the magic Mont Blanc Tunnel can be very
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
different. Aosta Valley has many fantastic Orco
sport crags within an hour's drive, and a For those looking for alternatives to the
few multi-pitch ones a bit further afield, granite trad climbing found in the Envers
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
mostly on great quality gneiss. Valgrisenche and other areas of the massif, then a 2.5
is a particular hot spot in a fantastic alpine hour drive south to the Piedemonte gets
setting and a range of high quality sport you to the Italian crack climbing mecca that
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
crags such as La Mecca and Gare Est. A bit is the Orco valley. The valley features a
further on, the large Paratone at Machaby range of single and multi-pitch crags all with
provides slabby multi-pitch adventures that immaculate smooth granite and the beautiful
end up a perfectly situated Agriturismo Refugio Pontese offers brilliant mountain
AR- Index

AR- Index
for lunch. For those looking for alpine routes behind the Gran Paradiso massif.
adventures, or an alternative to Mont Blanc,
then Gran Paradiso - Italy's highest peak
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
- can be a good option here. In the winter
months, reliable ice conditions can almost
always be found in Aosta in the world class
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
water ice destination of Cogne. Will Harris enjoying sport climbing in the beautiful
Valgrisenche, Aosta Valley. Photo: Luke Davies
 F to PD+ AD- to D D+ to TD+ ED1 upwards
60 Destination Planner Total
W T G up to 4c 5a to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ upwards Approach Best Season Summary Page

ZIOP
An excellent area for low/mid-grade alpinists, the Glacier du Tour provides a
Glacier du Tour 18 15 3 - 9 6 3 - 64
Glacier du Tour

Glacier du Tour
range of superb snow and mixed climbs on moderately high peaks.

ZIOPB
When it comes to long, classic ice and mixed climbs, the Glacier d'Argentière is
Glacier d'Argentière 44 30 14 - 5 9 23 7 likely the most densely packed valley in the world. There's some decent rock too! 84
Gl. d'Argentière

Gl. d'Argentière
Z OP
An aspirational area featuring the stunning pinnacle of the Dru and its
Charpoua and Nant Blanc 10 - 10 - - - 5 5 surrounding rocky bastions. Huge routes in a dramatic, remote-feeling setting. 122
Charpoua/Nant Blanc Glacier de Talèfre

Glacier de Talèfre Charpoua/Nant Blanc

ZIOP
Home to several classic alpine ridges, some excellent rock routes and a couple of
Glacier de Talèfre 10 6 4 - 2 6 2 - good snow climbs, the Glacier de Talèfre is a mid-grade mecca. 138

ZIOPB
A legendary peak and one of the most impressive mountains in the Alps, The
Grandes Jorasses 10 5 5 - - 2 4 4 Grandes Jorasses is home to long, serious and amazing alpine climbs. 158

F OP
One of the best (and best known) areas for granite climbing in the Alps, the
Envers des Aiguilles 33 - 33 - - - 19 14 Envers provides relatively safe and extremely high quality rock climbing. 174

ZIOPB
An area with just about everything an alpinist looks for, from short and
Plan de l'Aiguille 33 11 22 - - 7 21 5 204
Grandes Jorasses

Grandes Jorasses
un-committing granite rock routes through to huge 1200m mixed lines.

ZIOPB
The focal point of Chamonix climbing, the Aiguille du Midi is home to some
Aiguille du Midi 16 6 10 - 1 2 10 3 legendary rock and mixed routes, from easy ridges to high-grade rock climbs. 246
Envers des Aiguilles

Envers des Aiguilles

ZIOPB
As well as an extensive range of fun low/mid-grade alpine climbs, the Helbronner
Helbronner 19 12 7 - 3 14 2 - is also home to two stunning, wild climbs - the Brenva Spur and Kuffner Ridge. 270

ZIOPB
A mountain with just about everything, from splitter granite cracks to long, alpine
Mont Blanc du Tacul 40 22 18 - 1 9 18 12 294
Plan de l'Aiguille

Plan de l'Aiguille
ridges, stunning ice climbs and mixed routes of all grades.

Z OP
Mountaineering was 'invented' on Mont Blanc after it was climbed from the
Mont Blanc - France Side 3 3 - - 2 1 - - French side and repeating this feat rightly remains a highly coveted prize. 330
Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi
Z OP
For those looking for a tougher way of reaching the top of Europe, the Italian side
Mont Blanc - Italy Side 7 4 3 - 1 1 2 3 of the mountain provides wild and remote routes of all grades. 358

Z O
The Tré la Tête is a perfect place for low-grade alpinists, combining as it does
Tré la Tête 5 5 - - 4 1 - - remote mountaineering, beautiful summits and stunning views. 370
Helbronner

Helbronner
Aiguilles Rouges
F O
For those wishing to avoid the seriousness of alpine mountaineering, Brévent
- Brévent and Planpraz 60 - 4 56 2 19 37 2 offers a selection of brilliant rock climbs, most of which are fully bolted. 392
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Aiguilles Rouges
F O
The Index is a great place to climb bolted and traditional multi-pitch routes and it
- Index 42 - 18 24 5 10 19 8 has one of the finest mountain views in the world as a backdrop. 418
Aiguilles Rouges
F OP
The quiet side of the Aiguilles Rouges has bolted multi-pitches accessible from
- Vallorcine 18 - 8 10 - 2 13 3 the valley as well as the stunning Perrons - maybe the best rock in the Rouges. 434
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc
HIOP
A sunny, west-facing roadside crag with a good set of sport routes in the
Servoz 27 - - 27 5 13 8 1 mid-grades. Some multi-pitch offerings. 438
Two great crags on the Coupeau hill side. Coupeau is a great venue for hot
Coupeau Area 30 - - 30 - 8 17 5 GIOP 444
Tré la Tête

Tré la Tête
3/20 min summers days and Roc Dement for those looking for a bit of steep crimping.

SIOP
A set of popular buttresses with easy access and lots of routes. A great place to
Les Gaillands 106 - - 106 23 66 16 1 450
AR- Brévent/Planpraz

AR- Brévent/Planpraz
1/5 min get some multi-pitch practice in but the lines are confusing as it is over-bolted.
Valley Crags

SIOP
Three long routes that are easy to reach and are good for getting used to long
Les Mottets 3 - - 3 1 2 - - 20 min days and moving together. 466

SIOP
A beautifully situated crag with some good, mostly single-pitch routes across the
La Joux 41 - - 41 8 18 10 5 468
AR- Index

AR- Index
10 min lower and mid-grades.

SIOP
A set of high quality multi-pitch bolted climbing with no lift access required.
Les Chéserys 25 - - 25 3 22 - - 1 hour Magnificent views and relatively easy grades make it a good place to start. 476
AR - Vallorcine

AR - Vallorcine
AIOP
A nicely-located west-facing slab with a good set of single and multi-pitch routes.
Vallorcine 27 - - 27 11 13 3 - 5 min Can get crowded with groups. 484

SIOP
A vast hillside with a series of long multi-pitch routes connecting the quality
63
Valley Cragging

Valley Cragging
Barberine - - 63 - 15 39 9 30 min sections of rock, plus a great set of harder routes on the Zone area. 488
Totals 690 119 151 420 86 246 271 87 'Best season' may vary considerably for certain routes - check route pages.