POOL WATER TREATMENT USER GUIDE.

Section 1: Physical treatment – this principally concerns your filtration system.

Section 2: Chemical treatment – this guarantees the hygiene of the water in your pool
through disinfection.

Section 3: Common problems facing pool users.

‘Swimming pools should be maintained both physically and chemically as the

pool water are always exposed to pollution.’

1. Physical Treatment:
Every week, you will need to clean your pool and your filter elements: pre filter basket
and filter media (filter bag or JD Master Filter).

All large floating objects (leaves, plastic bags... etc.) must be removed using a pool net
(shown in figure 1).

You should clean the pool using a swimming pool vacuum.

1.1 Cleaning the pool

1.1.1 Connect the hose and handle (shown in fig 7) to the brush head (shown in fig.
3) and position it (brush) at the bottom of the pool.
1.1.2 Prime the brush hose (shown in fig 5) by filling it with water using the filtration
unit discharge.
1.1.3 Depending on the power of your pump, position the skim-vacuum double plate
(shown in fig 2 and 4) in such a way as to concentrate all or part of the suction on the
central hole, to which you should then connect the other end of the hose. If you have
a model of filtration unit that is fitted with two filter bags, make sure you block off
one of the two bowls using the skim-vacuum plug (shown in fig 6) before connecting
the brush.
1.1.4 Sweep the brush head in an orderly fashion.

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 Figure 1: Traditional Pool Net.
Figure 5: Pool Vacuum Hose.

Figure 2: Vaccum plate. Figure 4: Transparent plate. Figure 6: Vacuum plug.

Figure 3: Pool Vacuum Brush.

Figure 7: Telescopic pole.

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1.2 Filtration elements:
With the Desjoyaux filtration system, the water is drawn in by the
skimmer (which is the opening present in the filtration unit on the
left hand side of the picture, shown in fig 8), filtered through the
filtering bag and then discharged back into the pool. A pre filter
basket is located up line from the filtering bag; this pre filter catches Figure 8: Filtration unit with the
the larger impurities in the water, such as leaves. skimmer opening on the left hand side.
The efficiency of your filtration system will depend on the cleanliness
of these two elements.
.
1.2.1 Cleaning the pre filter basket.
-SWITCH OFF the filtration unit first.
- Remove the basket (shown in fig. 9) from the filtration bowl, empty it, and wash it out
using a hosepipe.

Figure 9: Pre Filter Basket.

.
1.2.2 Cleaning the filtering bag.
-SWITCH OFF the filtration unit first.
- Once you have removed your pre filter basket, take
out the filtering bag (shown in fig 10); place it on the
cleaning support provided (JD Filter Net), with the
inside face visible, and then wash it out using a
hosepipe until all dirt has been removed.
- If the filtering bag is heavily clogged up, it can also be
sprayed down rapidly and then washed in a washing
machine at 30°C without using any type of Figure 10: Filtering bag.

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detergents (water cycle only).
Cleaning the bag regularly will help prolong its lifetime therefore it should be cleansed
at least once per day at regular conditions. We recommended replacing it every 2 to 3
seasons.

1.3 Correct water level.

You should check the water level in your pool regularly: ideally, it should reach three-
quarters of the way up the skimmer.
For better water circulation, we recommend that you adjust the discharge nozzle in a
way so that the water surface is always circulating
(So that it is pointing upwards and to the left; this encourages a more frequent renewal
of water at the surface.)

1.4 Setting the clock for programming.

The clock on the electrical control panel can be used to set daily filtration times for your
pool.
Remember: filtering your pool water more often means more economical maintenance.
It is also recommended that the total working hours of the filtration system are from 8
to 12 hours per day under normal conditions.
Remember to check the clock after any power cut, and reset it if necessary.

.
1.5 Calculating Turnover period.
It is the amount of time taken for the pumping and the circulation systems to cycle all of
the water in the pool one time
The turnover period should be calculated from this formula:

𝑾𝒂𝒕𝒆𝒓 𝒗𝒐𝒍𝒖𝒎𝒆 �𝒎𝟑 �

Turnover period (h) = 𝒎𝟑
𝑪𝒊𝒓𝒄𝒖𝒍𝒂𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏 𝒓𝒂𝒕𝒆 � �
𝒉

𝑚3
The circulation rate of FP 25 Desjoyaux pump is 25 ℎ𝑟 , so if you have a 100
𝑚3 𝑝𝑜𝑜𝑙 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑛𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑡𝑜 𝑐𝑎𝑙𝑐𝑢𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑛𝑜𝑣𝑒𝑟 𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑜𝑑
100
Turnover period (h) = 25 = 4 hrs. (which is recommended according to the PWTAG.)

So if we assumed that the turnover period was equal to 4 hours so that means that the
pool filters will have (24 ÷ 4) 6 cycles, For example:

Cycle 1: From 12:00 a.m.  4:00 a.m. (Operation)

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Cycle 2: From 4:00 a.m.  8:00 a.m. (Shut Down)

Cycle 3: From 8:00 a.m.  12:00 p.m. (Operation)

Cycle 4: From 12:00 p.m.  4:00 p.m. (Shut Down)

Cycle 5: From 4:00 p.m.  8:00 p.m. (Operation)

Cycle 6: From 8:00 p.m.  12:00 a.m. (Shut Down)

Your pool water should be turned over at least twice per day. You can choose to either
split the time (as in the example) or run it continuously depending on your pump size,
number of swimmers, plumbing and your pool depth.

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2. Chemical Treatment:
‘Adjusting Water Chemical Levels’

2.1 A brief on the chemical factors and the chemical compounds used in
swimming pool water treatment:
1) pH scale: It indicates how acidic or basic the water is. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14,
where pH 7 is neutral. If the pH is above 7, the water is basic; if it is below 7 the water is
acid.

2) pH+: It is the commercial name of the chemical compound used to increase the pH of
the water which is Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate 𝑁𝑎2 C𝑂3) or Baking Soda (Sodium
Bicarbonate NaHC𝑂3 ).

3) pH −: It is the commercial name of the chemical compound used to decrease the pH

of the water which is muriatic acid (a form of the forms of Hydrochloric acid HCl).

4) Algaecide: It is a chemical used to kill and prevent the growth of algae. The initial
treatment dosage is 1 L per 100 𝑚3 of water while the maintenance treatment is 0.25 L
per 100 𝑚3 of water every week. This dose is merely meant as a guideline and may be
modified according to different characteristics of the pool or climate. The necessary
dose of concentrated algaecide is poured in a container with water and distributed over
the pool surface. This product should be added when there are no swimmers in the pool
preferably during the evening.

5) Chlorine tablets: The tablets (T) used for sanitizing the pool. They are added to the
skimmer basket. These tablets are slow acting meaning that they take several days to
completely dissolve in pool water. The dosage is further explained in the chlorine
section.

6) Chlorine granules: It’s the chlorine used in shocking swimming pools. The granules
used are calcium hypochlorite and it must be dissolved in water first before being
dumped into the pool. More details and guidelines are further explained in the chlorine
section.

7) Clarifier or Brightener or Flocculant: It is a cationic polymer that is added to pool

water to cause the coagulation of fine suspended particles to be easily filtered and
doesn’t cause residue of its own.

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2.2 Chemical factors:

2.2.1 pH:
It indicates how acidic or basic the water is. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14, where pH 7
is neutral. If the pH is above 7, the water is basic; if it is below 7 the water is acid. The
optimum pH for pool water is 7.4, since this is the same as the pH in human eyes and
mucous membranes. A pH of 7.4 also gives good chlorine disinfection. It should be
tested daily at first. Once you gain experience with your pool, less frequent monitoring
may be appropriate depending on your pool’s typical rate of pH.

A low pH gives:
- Aggressive water, which damages the mechanical components of the pool.
- Irritations of the eyes and mucous membranes.
- Damage to the pool liner.

A high pH gives:
- Poorer chlorine disinfection as the effectiveness of free chlorine is almost diminished
at higher pH levels.
- Skin and eye irritation.
- Lime precipitation.
- Cloudiness.

The tables below show the dosage charts of muriatic acid (HCl or pH-) and Sodium
Carbonate (Soda Ash or pH+) for pools and spas. Please note that the values indicated in
these tables are very general. However, don’t add any more of the chemicals than
indicated in a single application.

1-Lowering pH:

Muriatic acid (HCl or pH-) for POOLS

Cubic meters (𝒎𝟑 ) in Pool

pH 454.2 𝒎𝟑 227.1 𝒎𝟑 113.6 𝒎𝟑 56.8 𝒎𝟑 37.9 𝒎𝟑
7.6-7.8 4.2 lit 2 lit 1 lit 0.5 lit 0.4 lit
7.8-8.0 5.7 lit 2.8 lit 1.4 lit 0.7 lit 0.5 lit
8.0-8.4 8.3 lit 4.2 lit 2 lit 1 lit 0.7 lit
Over 8.4 11.4 lit 5.7 lit 2.8 lit 1.4 lit 0.9 lit
If pH is over 7.6, add this amount of acid-then retest

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 Muriatic acid (HCl or pH-) for SPAS

Cubic meters (𝒎𝟑 ) in Spa

pH 7.6 𝒎𝟑 5.7 𝒎𝟑 2.8 𝒎𝟑 1.5 𝒎𝟑
7.6-7.8 71 ml 56 ml 26.6 14.8 ml
ml
7.8-8.0 95 ml 71 ml 35.5 17.7 ml
ml
8.0-8.4 142 ml 106.5 56 29.6 ml
ml ml
Over 8.4 189 ml 142 ml 71 ml 38.4 ml
If pH is over 7.6, add this amount of acid-then retest.

2-Raising pH:

Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash or pH+) for POOLS

Cubic meters (𝒎𝟑 ) in Pool

pH 454.2 𝒎𝟑 227.1 𝒎𝟑 113.6 𝒎𝟑 56.8 𝒎𝟑 37.9 𝒎𝟑
7.2-7.4 2 Kg 1 Kg 0.5 Kg 0.25 Kg 0.17 Kg
7.0-7.2 2.7 Kg 1.4 Kg 0.7 Kg 0.34 Kg 0.23 Kg
6.8-7.0 3.6 Kg 1.8 Kg 0.9 Kg 0.5 Kg 0.34 Kg
Under 6.8 5.4 Kg 2.7 Kg 1.4 Kg 0.7 Kg 0.5 KG
If pH is under 7.4, add this amount of soda ash – then retest.

Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash or pH+) for SPAS

Cubic meters (𝒎𝟑 ) in Spa

pH 7.6 𝒎𝟑 5.7 𝒎𝟑 2.8 𝒎𝟑 1.5 𝒎𝟑
7.2-7.4 36.9 gm. 28.3 gm. 14.2 gm. 5.7 gm.
7.0-7.2 42.4 gm. 31.2 gm. 17 gm. 8.5 gm.
6.8-7.0 70.9 gm. 53.9 gm. 25.5 gm. 14.2 gm.
Under 6.8 85 gm. 62.4 gm. 31.2 gm. 17 gm.
If pH is under 7.4, add this amount of soda ash – then retest.

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 2.2.2 Total alkalinity

Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you
need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH
tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up slowly or even
quickly in extreme cases. TA contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for
plaster damage or calcium scaling. The ideal TA level depends on several factors. If you
are using acidic chlorine sources, such as trichlor or dichlor, keep TA on the high side,
perhaps between 100 and 120. Pools with vinyl liners can tolerate high TA levels
reasonably well.

2.2.3 Chlorine:
Chlorine functions as the main disinfectant in your pool, so maintaining the
recommended level is very important for your safety and for ensuring an enjoyable
swim experience.

Figure 12: Granulated Chlorine.

Figure 11: Chlorine Tablets.

The ideal range of free chlorine, which is the chlorine responsible for sanitizing the
water, in a swimming pool is from 1.0 – 3.0 ppm. The amount of chlorine added daily to
a swimming pool is determined only through regular measuring at the beginning of
usage as it depends on several factors such as the bathing load, temperature of pool
water and hours of exposure to direct sunlight. Based on our experience in dealing with
pools and the weather in Egypt we see that in order to reach an average concentration
of 2 ppm which is equivalent to 2 gm. /m3 and assuming that all the free chlorine is
converted to combined chlorine per day, chlorine must be added daily at the rate of 2
gm./m3 . Chlorine tablets (90%) weigh 200 gm. per tablet and takes about five day to

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 completely dissolve in the pool water (slow acting tablets).

So if you have a 50 m3 pool you will need (2*50) 100 gm. of chlorine per day, and
(100*5) 500 gm. of chlorine in 5 days. One slow acting chlorine tablet weighs 200 gm. so
you’ll need (500/200) 2.5 chlorine tablets each five days.

The two types of chlorine used are the TCCA (trichloroisocyanuric acid) tablets (shown in
fig 11) and the Calcium hypochlorite granules (shown in fig 12).

Shock chlorination:

As a general guide, you should shock your pool when:

 Algae begins to grow in your pool

 The free chlorine level of your pool measures zero
 The combined chlorine* level rises above 0.2

*Combined chlorine level indicates the presence of chloramines (which give off the
strong chlorine smell and have very low disinfecting power). It is equal to the difference
between the values of total chlorine and free chlorine levels. Anything equal to or more
than 0.2 ppm difference between TAC and FAC is a high enough level of chloramines to
warrant shocking the pool. However, if you are just gearing up for a party, or just
enjoyed a high bather load, or spot a patch of algae blooming in the corner, you may not
need a full shocking, but can use only one bag to super chlorinate the pool.

How to perform shock chlorination:

1) Shock the pool regularly, the number of swimmers using the pool and the
temperature of the pool water will determine how “regular” you should shock
your pool. The best indicator is to monitor the results of home chlorine tests.
Pool experts recommend shocking a pool at a minimum of once a month. If the
water is warm (such as for a spa pool), twice a month minimum is
recommended.
2) Shock after the sun has gone down. This will prevent the sun's UV rays from
affecting the chlorine or other chemical and ensures that the majority of the
chemical is available to shock the pool.
3) Dissolve the pool shock chemicals. This must be done before adding the pool
shock chemicals to the swimming pool. All forms of pool shock chemicals are
granular and should dissolve relatively quickly.
• Fill a bucket of volume 19 liter with water from the pool.
• Slowly pour the granular pool shock into the bucket of water.

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 • Never add water to a chemical; always add chemicals to water.
4) Stir the bucket well; agitate the water for one minute or more to dissolve
the pool shock chemicals.
5) With the filtration system running, slowly pour the bucket of dissolved shock
directly in front of a return line fitting. You will see the water being carried out
into the pool by the jet of water coming from the return line. Pour slowly enough
that all of the water from your bucket is carried out into the pool and does not
settle to the pool floor. Pouring slowly is also vital to prevent splashing on your
skin, clothes and any surfaces, which can injure or stain, depending on what the
splashes land on. Also pour as close to the water's surface as possible.
6) Refill with water. When you are pouring and get near the bottom of the bucket
of dissolved shock water (down to about 1/4 left in the bucket), fill the bucket
back up with water. Stir the bucket of water again for one minute or more, to
dissolve left over shock granules at the bottom of the bucket, which did not
dissolve the first time. Continue pouring until all the contents are used. If non
dissolved granules reach the pool floor bottom, stir them up with a pool cleaner.

Here are some tips on using granular pool shock safely:

1. Always read package instructions before adding granular chlorine or liquid

chlorine shock to the pool.
2. Always add chlorine to water not water to chlorine to prevent accidents
associated with chemicals mishandling.
3. Powder or granular chlorine should be dissolved first in water before being
dumped in the pool.
4. Always pour the chlorine in front of the jet so it can be distributed around the
whole water surface - never add shock to the skimmer. Make sure that no intact
chlorine granules are dropped directly into the swimming pool.
5. Always keep solar blankets, winter covers and auto covers removed until
chlorine level is 3.0ppm or less.
6. Always follow instructions on waiting to swim after shocking which is an eight
hour wait most of the times as particles can become lodged in your eye and to
prevent any injuries related to the increase of chlorine level in pool water.
7. Always check your pH before shocking and lower if needed into the range of 7.2-
7.4.
8. Always brush your pool after shocking, with the pump running, to help quickly
distribute the chlorine.
9. Always rinse out your chlorine bags in the pool and allow them to dry before
disposing.
10. Always add chlorine up wind - so that the wind does not blow the powder back
in your face.

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 The following table shows the amounts of different types of chlorine used during shock
chlorination. Please note that these amounts are approximate amounts .Only through
record keeping and experience can one determine and perform the correct tasks.

Type Of POOL VOLUME (𝐌𝟑 )

Swimming Pool
Chlorine
3.79 18.93 37.85 45.42 56.78 75.71 94.64 189.27

Sodium 295.74 1.66 L 3.08 L 4.73 L 6.32 L 7.57 L 15.14 L 22.71 L

Hypochlorite ml

Lithium 113.39 566.99 1.06 Kg 1.59 Kg 2.15 Kg 2.72 Kg 5.44 Kg 8.16 Kg

Hypochlorite gm.

Dichlor 63.79 311.84 603.27 907.18 1.21 Kg 1.51 Kg 3.06 Kg 6.35 Kg

gm. gm. gm. gm.

Calcium 56.69 283.49 566.99 907.18 1.13 Kg 1.47 Kg 2.95 Kg 5.89 Kg

Hypochlorite gm. gm. gm. gm.

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The following table shows the recommended levels of chemicals in swimming pools.
However each pool has its own personality and demands. Only through record keeping
and experience can one determine and perform the correct tasks.

Unit Minimum Ideal Maximum

Free Chlorine ppm 1.0 1.0 - 3.0 3.0
(FC)
Combined ppm None None 0.2
Chlorine (CC)
Bromine ppm 2.0 2.0 - 4.0 4.0
pH ppm 7.2 7.4 - 7.6 7.8
Total Alkalinity ppm 60 80 - 100 180
(TA) (for liquid Chlorine, Cal-Hypo and
Lithium Hypo)
100 - 120
(For Gas Chlorine, Dichlor, TriChlor
and Bromine Compounds)
Calcium ppm 150 200 - 400 500-
Hardness (CH) 1000+
Cyanuric acid ppm 10 30 - 50 150

- Maximum salinity in the water should be 35000 ppm.

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2.3 Test kits:

2.3.1 The OTO-Phenol test kit:

Measuring the chlorine level:

1- Fill the test tube up to the mark with pool water. Make sure to
sample water that comes from 50 cm below the water level
Figure 13: The OTO-Phenol test kit.
and away from the pool inlets.

2- Add 5 drops of the OTO product (yellow vial).

3- Seal the test tube and shake to allow the product to spread. After 10 seconds,
you can read the total chlorine level and compare it with the ideal values.

4- After reading the chlorine level, make sure that you have disposed the liquid
safely. NEVER dump it into the pool water.

Measuring the pH level:

1- Fill the test tube up to the mark with pool water. Here, too, it is best to sample
water from a depth of approx. 50 cm and away from the inlets.

2- Add 5 drops of phenol (red vial).

3- Seal the test tube and shake to allow the product to spread. After a few seconds,
you can read the pH level. The ideal level lies between pH 7.2 and 7.6.

4- After reading the pH level, make sure that you have disposed the liquid safely.
NEVER dump it into the pool water.

2.3.2 Test Strips:

Another type of water test kits is the test strips. These strips are
immersed in water and the pads on it change color depending on
the concentration of the chemical parameters measured. The
strip is then removed from water and compared with the color
chart present on the container as shown in figures 13 and 14.
Figure 14: Test Strips Kit.

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Caution: Store the test kit and products in a cool, dry place out
of direct sunlight and away from children.

Follow the instructions on the packaging for testing the water

quality. For best results, we recommend replacing the test kit
every year.

Figure 15: Test strip color chart.

3) Common problems facing pool users:

3.1 WATER CLARITY PROBLEMS

3.1.1 Cloudy/milky Water.

There are four possible causes - your test kit will give you the best idea as to which is the
most likely.

Probable causes:
1) Fine suspended particles floating in the
water can lead to a milky white
discoloration. This will probably be due to a
precipitation of dissolved hardness salts as
result of high pH or high total alkalinity, or
both. (Precipitation is a process where

dissolved minerals are transformed into very Figure 16: Cloudy/ Milky Pool Water.
small solid particles).

Treatment:

• Lower the pH or alkalinity using dry acid. To correct pH, refer to the pH section
for the exact dosage.

2) Buildup of dirt and bather pollution due to insufficient chlorine or poor filtration

Treatment:

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 • Clean pre filter basket and filter bag then super chlorinate (shock your pool) by
adding non-stabilized chlorine such as sodium hypochlorite or calcium
hypochlorite to raise the free chlorine to 10ppm.
• Add a clarifier to polish the water.

3) The effectiveness of the chlorine has been reduced in pools using stabilized chlorine
donors because the water is over-stabilized i.e. the levels of stabilizer (cyanuric acid) are
too high. This prolongs the time it takes to kill organisms (bugs) which can proliferate
and lead to haziness in the water.

Treatment:

• Replace some of the pool water by draining to waste, then top up with fresh
mains water. This will lower levels of stabilizer.
• Super chlorinate to 10ppm using the products recommended above.
• It is recommended that the pool water should be drained and
refilled completely once every year due to the nature of Egypt’s weather.

4) The filter is blocked or is ineffective

Treatment:

• Check pre filter basket and filter bag and replace if necessary. Your dealer should
be called in if you do not feel equal to the task.

3.1.2 Cloudy/green Water.

Probable cause:

At some stage, chlorine levels have fallen, or chlorine has become

ineffective, allowing algae to colonize the water (as shown in fig
17).

Figure 17: Green water due to algae.

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Treatment:

• Shock dose with a non-stabilized chlorine such as calcium hypochlorite or sodium

hypochlorite, or use an algaecide. Shock dosing usually produces the fastest
results. For more serious problems, where the water is pea-soup green and the
bottom is invisible, shock dose up to around 25ppm. This will kill the algae.
• Brush off any algae that may remain on pool surfaces. Look for colonies behind
step ladders and around underwater lighting.
• Wash the pre filter basket and filter bag 24 hours later to remove dead algae
from the top of the filter media.
• Any remaining haziness in the water should be removed by using a water
clarifier.
• Thereafter maintain chlorine at around 3ppm to prevent a recurrence.
• If the pool is particularly susceptible to algae, consider regular use of an
algaecide or chlorine with added algaecide.

3.1.3 Rust red Water.

Probable cause:
Iron present in the source water. A shock dose of chlorine will then oxidize the iron
creating rust (as shown in fig 18). This can often happen after starting up or re-opening a
pool.

Figure 18: Rust stains on pool liner.

Treatment:

• It is necessary to act very quickly to prevent consequential

damage such as staining of the liner, if fitted. Contact your pool
installer or pool dealer to see if it is safe to drain down and
replace the water all in one go, or whether this should be done
by progressive dilution.
• Remove any rust staining from the pool surfaces with a good tile and liner
cleaner (cleaner must be swimming pool friendly).
• Ensure the fresh water is properly balanced i.e. that pH and total alkalinity are
within recommended parameters.

3.2 BATHER DISCOMFORT PROBLEMS

• Stinging eyes, sore throat and skin irritation

• Blond or tinted hair turns green
• Allergy to chlorine

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3.2.1 Stinging eyes, sore throat and skin irritation.

There are three possible causes - use your test kit to see which is
the most probable.

Probable causes:
1) This could be a pH problem - the water could be too acidic or too
alkaline. The pH of the human eye is around 7.4-7.5 - anything
higher or lower will irritate (see figure 19). The problem would be
made worse if the pH is out to the extent that it changes the species
of chlorine

Treatment: Figure 19: Irritated eyes due to pH

imbalance.
Correct the pH. Refer to the pH section for the exact dosage.

2) High combined chlorine. Chloramines are known to be an irritant. Note carefully the
results you get on your DPD no3 test. Also, if you get an unpleasant chlorine smell, its
odds on that the problem is due to high chloramines.

Treatment:

• Break the chloramines down by super chlorinating the pool with up to 10ppm
free chlorine.

3) Some detergents used for cleaning pool sides and removing scum lines (tide-marks)
are incompatible with chlorine. This can unfortunately include many products sold
specifically for this application. The resulting reactions in the water can lead to eye and
skin irritation. Similar reactions can occur if soaps or shampoos get into the water, for
instance if bathers jump in to rinse off.

Treatment:

• Super chlorinate to react-out the detergents.

• Change to cleaners that are chlorine compatible

3.2.2 Blond or tinted hair turns green.

• Probable cause:
High levels of copper in the pool. This can arise either because of over-use of
copper based algaecides, or because the pH of the pool water has been allowed
to drop to a point at which it starts to corrode the copper fittings in the heater.

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Treatment:

• Correct the pH. Refer to the pH section for the exact dosage.
• Stop Using Copper-Based Algaecides. Although they are very effective in killing
algae, they can also cause staining and, of course, green hair.
• You can also protect your hair by using a leave-in conditioner before swimming.
Also, wash and rinse your hair as soon as you get out of the pool.
• You can visit your regular hair salon and ask for a coat that seals many cuticles
on the hair. This will prevent the copper from attaching to the hair strands and
turning it green.

3.2.3 Allergy to chlorine.

Probable cause:

The most important thing is to make sure that you really are
suffering from a genuine allergy and not something else. The
discomfort you feel could be due to other factors. For instance,
it is due to the fact that the pH of the water is too low or too
high. Alternatively it could be due to high levels of combined
chlorine (chloramines) - chloramines are known to be irritants. Figure 20: Skin Rash Due To
Both these things are explained in more detail in 'Stinging eyes, Chlorine Allergy.
sore throat and skin irritation' section). Test the water for pH
and chloramines and correct as necessary.

Also, be your own guinea pig - use another pool sanitized with chlorine and see if
you get the same reactions. If not, your problems are probably more to do with
water treatment.

Bear in mind as well that chloramines are formed by the breakdown of

nitrogenous compounds such as perspiration, cosmetics, mucous etc.
when hypochlorous acid (free chlorine) reacts with them. The chloramines are
eventually broken down by more hypochlorous acid to form harmless substances
such as nitrogen gas. All this usually takes place in the pool water. However, the
breakdown reactions can take place on the surface of the skin if for instance you
have been working-out and sweating before swimming or using cosmetic
preparations. Remove these nitrogenous compounds from your skin by taking a
shower and washing thoroughly before entering the pool. The chances are you
will find the pool water much more comfortable.

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 If neither of these suggestions helps, then the likelihood is that you are one of
the minorities who experience an allergic reaction to chlorine. An allergy is
defined as hypersensitiveness to some foreign substance, small doses of which
produce a violent and disproportionate reaction in the sufferer. Chlorine is
unlikely to have been the original or primary allergen, but those suffering from
allergies can unfortunately find themselves sensitized by chlorine

Treatment:

• If you think you have a genuine allergy, then sadly the only remedy is to change
to a non-chlorine sanitizer. Be warned that a number of these require to be
dosed or shock dosed with chlorine. Consult your pool dealer for suitable
alternatives.

3.3 Chlorine levels problems.

• Inability to get a chlorine reading on the test kit

• The chlorine level is difficult to maintain

3.3.1 Chlorine has been added to the water, but there is no reading on the
test kit.

• Probable cause:
The chlorine level in the pool is so high that it bleaches the coloring agent in the
test vial. To confirm the diagnosis, see if you can detect a smell of chlorine off
the surface of the water, or repeat the test with only a droplet of pool water in
the test tube and watch closely to see if there is a red discoloration before the
bleaching occurs.

Treatment:

• Determine the approximate level of chlorine by diluting the sample of pool water
with an equal quantity of natural or distilled water; multiply the answer by 2. If
there is still no reading, repeat the process and multiply the answer by 4...and so
on.
• If the actual chlorine reading is not too high (i.e. around 10ppm), suspend dosing

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 and allow it to drop over a period of time.

3.3.2 The chlorine level is difficult to maintain.

Probable causes:

1) In outdoor pools, the hypochlorous acid (free chlorine) is being decomposed

by ultra violet from the sun's rays

Treatment:

• Use stabilized chlorine; dichlor granules or trichlor tablets.

• Use a pool cover during daytime when you are not using the pool.
• Keep track of the level of cyanuric acid in pool water. Make sure it is within the
recommended range

2) High water temperature. The logic is simple. Bugs are more at home in warm
water and breed more quickly. The greater number of bugs will create a
higher chlorine demand.

Treatment:

• The dose rate of chlorine must be increased proportionately. Keep a close check
on chlorine levels in hot weather.

3) Because chlorine levels have not been high enough, there has been a build-up
of pollutants, and therefore an increase in chlorine demand.

Treatment:

• Super chlorinate the pool to around 10ppm free chlorine.

3.4 WATER BALANCE PROBLEMS

• Tendency for the pH to remain low

• Tendency for the pH to be permanently high
• pH values are erratic and fluctuate
• pH is locked.

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 • Tendency for the alkalinity to be too low

3.4.1 Tendency for the pH to remain low (below 7.2).

• Probable cause:
This is usually due either to low pH of mains water (especially in soft water
areas) or to the use of acidic chlorine donors, such as trichlor.

Treatment:

• Correct the pH. To raise the pH, add soda ash. Refer to the pH section for the
exact dosage.
• Consider changing to a high pH chlorine source to help achieve a natural balance
between the low pH of the water and the high pH of the chlorine
donor. Dichlor is roughly pH neutral; calcium hypochlorite and sodium
hypochlorite are high pH chlorine donors.

3.4.2 Tendency for the pH to be permanently high (above 7.6).

• Probable cause:
This is due to either
(1) High pH of mains water (especially in hard water areas) OR
(2) To the use of alkaline chlorine donors such as calcium or sodium
hypochlorite OR
(3) To hardness salts being leached from new concrete or mosaic pools.

Treatment:

• The remedy is the same irrespective of which factor is at work here - correct the
pH. To lower the pH, add dry acid. Please refer to the pH section for the exact
dosage
• For (1) and (2), consider changing to a low pH chlorine source to help achieve a
natural balance between the high pH of the water and the low pH of the chlorine
donor. Trichlor is the obvious chlorine donor to choose. For (3), the difficulties
with new concrete pools will clear up of their own accord given sufficient time.

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3.4.3 pH values are erratic and fluctuate.

Probable cause:
The reason will be that the total alkalinity will be too low to buffer the pH
Treatment:
Add sodium bicarbonate to ensure the total alkalinity remains above 100ppm.

3.4.4 pH is locked.

Probable cause:
The water is over buffered due to high alkalinity. This is a common problem
in hard water areas where the mains feed water has a high total alkalinity.

Treatment:

Add muriatic acid to lower the total alkalinity to below 200ppm.

3.4.5 Tendency for the alkalinity to be too low.

Probable cause:
The local feed water is low in bicarbonates so that whenever the pool is topped
up from the mains, it dilutes the bicarbonates in the pool. This is a particular
problem in soft water areas.

Treatment:

Add sodium bicarbonate to raise the total alkalinity to around 100ppm.

3.5 POOL SURFACES PROBLEMS

• Pool surfaces feel rough and scaly.

• Pool surfaces feel slippery.

3.5.1 Pool surfaces feel rough and scaly.

Probable cause:
The balance between pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness is incorrect, and
the water is technically 'scale forming'.

Treatment:

Test for pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness and bring them within

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 recommended parameters.

3.5.2 Pool surfaces feel slippery.

Probable cause:
This is probably algae forming a colony on the pool surface due to insufficient
chlorination at some stage, or to a 'dead spot' in the water circulation.

To Remedy:

Sweep the affected areas vigorously to remove as many algae as possible,

then shock dose with non-stabilized chlorine (follow the procedure set
out for killing algae). Prevent a recurrence by periodic use of an
algaecide. Note that the entire pool surface should be brushed each time
the pool itself is cleaned.

Remark:

Pumps that are maintained outside of EMAK swimming pools

maintenance department are no longer eligible for the warranty of the
company.

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