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Made to Measure Figurations

The document provides a guide for pattern manipulation based on various shoulder and back configurations, including forward, square, sloping, and drop shoulders. Each configuration is assigned a code and outlines specific adjustments to be made to the pattern, such as wedging and straightening neck points. Additionally, it addresses adjustments for full chest and thick through figures, detailing the necessary changes for each type.

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heba.daher.g
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45 views17 pages

Made to Measure Figurations

The document provides a guide for pattern manipulation based on various shoulder and back configurations, including forward, square, sloping, and drop shoulders. Each configuration is assigned a code and outlines specific adjustments to be made to the pattern, such as wedging and straightening neck points. Additionally, it addresses adjustments for full chest and thick through figures, detailing the necessary changes for each type.

Uploaded by

heba.daher.g
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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MADE TO

MEASURE
FIGURATIONS
FORWARD SHOULDERS
FORWARD SHOULDERS
FIGURATION CODE: R
PATTERN MANIPULATION: STRAIGHTEN THE FRONT NECK POINT 1CM
SQUARE SHOULDERS
SQUARE SHOULDERS
FIGURATION CODE: Z
PATTERN MANIPULATION: SQUARE THE SHOULDERS 1CM

VERY SQUARE SHOULDERS


FIGURATION CODE: ZZ
PATTERN MANIPULATION: SQUARE THE SHOULDERS 2CM
SLOPING SHOULDERS
SLOPING SHOULDERS
FIGURATION CODE: X
PATTERN MANIPULATION: SLOPE THE SHOULDERS 1CM

VERY SLOPING SHOULDERS


FIGURATION CODE: XX
PATTERN MANIPULATION: SLOPE THE SHOULDERS 2CM
DROP SHOULDER
DROP SHOULDER (LEFT AND RIGHT)
FIGURATION CODE: LS - RS
PATTERN MANIPULATION: NO CHANGE TO PATTERN. PAD UP THE RELEVENT
DROP SHOULDER

FIGURATION CODE: LSS - RSS


PATTERN MANIPULATION: SLOPE THE SHOULDERS 1CM AND PAD UP THE
RELEVENT SHOULDER
ROUND BACK / HEAD FORWARD
ROUND BACK
FIGURATION CODE: O
PATTERN WEDGE IN CENTRE BACK 1.3CMS FROM SIDE SEAM
MANIPULATION: STEP. WEDGE OUT THE FRONT EDGE 1.3CMS FROM THE
FRONT PITCH. RAISE THE BACK SHOULDER & NECK
6MM. LOWER THE FRONT SHOULDER & GORGE 6MM.
RE-ALIGNE CROWN NOTCH.

VERY ROUND BACK


FIGURATION CODE: OO
PATTERN WEDGE IN CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM SIDE SEAM STEP.
MANIPULATION: WEDGE IN CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM HALF-BACK
NOTCH. RAISE THE SHOULDER THROUGH NECK 6MM.
WEDGE OUT THE FRONT EDGE 2CMS FROM THE FRONT
PITCH. LOWER THE SHOULDER THROUGH GORGE 6MM.
RE-ALIGNE CROWN NOTCH.
HEAD FORWARD
FIGURATION CODE: T
PATTERN WEDGE IN CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM HALF BACK
MANIPULATION: NOTCH. WEDGE OUT THE FRONT EDGE 1CM FROM THE
FRONT PITCH

VERY HEAD FORWARD


FIGURATION CODE: TT
PATTERN WEDGE IN CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM HALF BACK
MANIPULATION: NOTCH. WEDGE OUT THE FRONT EDGE 1CM FROM THE
FRONT PITCH
ERRECT
ERRECT
FIGURATION CODE: P
PATTERN WEDGE OUT CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM SIDE SEAM STEP.
MANIPULATION: WEDGE IN THE FRONT EDGE 1CM FROM THE FRONT
PITCH NOTCH

VERY ERRECT
FIGURATION CODE: PP
PATTERN WEDGE OUT CENTRE BACK 1.3CMS FROM SIDE SEAM
MANIPULATION: STEP. RAISE THE SHOULDER THROUGH NECK 6MM.
WEDGE IN THE FRONT EDGE 1.3CMS FROM THE FRONT
PITCH NOTCH. RAISE THE SHOULDER THROUGH GORGE
6MM. RE-ALIGNE CROWN NOTCH.
FULL CHEST / THICK THROUGH
FULL CHEST
FIGURATION CODE: W
PATTERN WEDGE OUT CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM SIDE SEAM
MANIPULATION: STEP. WEDGE IN THE FRONT EDGE 1.3CMS FROM THE
FRONT PITCH. STRAIGHTEN THE NECK POINT 1CM. ADD
A GORGE DART. WEDGE OUT THE HIND ARM SEAM 6MM
FROM THE UNDER ARM BASE OF SCYE.

VERY FULL CHEST


FIGURATION CODE: WW
PATTERN WEDGE OUT CENTRE BACK 1.3CMS FROM SIDE SEAM
MANIPULATION: STEP. WEDGE IN THE FRONT EDGE 2CMS FROM THE
FRONT PITCH. STRAIGHTEN THE NECK POINT 1.5CMS.
ADD A GORGE DART. WEDGE OUT THE HIND ARM SEAM
6MM FROM THE UNDER ARM BASE OF SCYE.
THICK THROUGH
FIGURATION CODE: M
PATTERN WEDGE OUT CENTRE BACK 1CM FROM SIDE SEAM
MANIPULATION: STEP. WEDGE IN THE FRONT EDGE 1.3CMS FROM THE
FRONT PITCH. STRAIGHTEN THE NECK POINT 1CM. ADD
A GORGE DART. INCREASE SCYE WIDTH 1CM. WEDGE
OUT THE HIND ARM SEAM 6MM FROM THE UNDER ARM
BASE OF SCYE.

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