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Lecture 8 Basic Weft Knitted Structures and Loops

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MD. ANAMUL HOQUE
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3 views

Lecture 8 Basic Weft Knitted Structures and Loops

Uploaded by

MD. ANAMUL HOQUE
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Basic Weft Knitted Structures and loops

BASIC WEFT KNITTED STRUCTURE


There are four basic weft knitted structure
• Plain knit structure
• Rib knit structure
• Interlock knit structure
• Purl knit structure

Single jersey/plain knit structure Rib structure

interlock structure purl structure


FEATURES OF THE PLAIN OR SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED FABRICS
• Appearance of face side and back side are different.
• Curl of fabric occurs at edge
• Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.
• Extensibility in widthwise is approximately twice than length.
• Single jersey can be un-roved.
• In plain un-roving can be prevented by binding off.
• Unraveling of the fabric occurs from either side is possible. Thickness of fabric is
approximately twice than diameter of yarn used.
• There is only one series of knitted loop per course in the fabric.

LOOP DIAGRAM OF PLAIN KNIT STRUCTURE

DIAGRAMMATIC REPRESENTATION/CHAIN NOTATION OF PLAIN KNIT


STRUCTURE

Plain/single jersey structure(face) Plain/single jersey structure(back)

GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF PLAIN KNIT STRUCTURE

Plain/single jersey structure(face) Plain/single jersey structure(back)


FEATURES OF RIB KNITTED FABRICS
• The appearance of the face and back are identical.
• Fabric lengthwise and widthwise extensibility is approximately twice than the single jersey
fabric.
• Fabric does not curl at edges.
• Fabric thickness is approximately twice than single jersey.
• There are two series of knitted loops arranged into two parallel line in course.
• The fabric can be unraveled from the end knitted last.
• Combination of wales of face loops and back loops are present on the both side of the fabric.

LOOP DIAGRAM OF RIB STRUCTURE

DIAGRAMMATIC REPRESENTATION/ CHAIN NOTATION OF RIB

1x1 rib structure

GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF RIB

1x1 rib structure


FEATURES OF INTERLOCK KNITTED FABRICS
• Interlock has the technical face of plain on the both sides.
• Appearance of the face and back are same.
• Widthwise and lengthwise elongation are approximately the same as single jersey.
• The fabric does not curl at the edges.
• The fabric can be unraveled from the end knitted last.
• Fabric thickness is approximately twice than single jersey.

LOOP DIAGRAM OF INTERLOCK STRUCTURE

1x1 interlock structure (face & back)

DIAGRAMMATIC REPRESENTATION /CHAIN NOTATION OF INTERLOCK

1x1 interlock structure

GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF INTERLOCK

1x1 interlock structure


FEATURES OF PURL KNITTED FABRICS
• The appearance of the face and back are same.
• Extension in all direction is more.
• The fabric does not curl at the edges.
• Unraveling of the fabric course by course from either side is possible

LOOP DIAGRAM OF PURL STRUCTURE

Purl structure(face & back)

DIAGRAMMATIC REPRESENTATION /CHAIN NOTATION OF PURL STRUCTURE

GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF PURL


COMPARISON BETWEEN BASIC STRUCTURES OF WEFT KNITTED FABRICS

COMPARISON BETWEEN SINGLE JERSEY AND DOUBLE JERSEY

Single jersey Double jersey


One set of needles is used Two sets of needle is used
The appearance of the face and back side The appearance of the face and back side is
is different same
Tend to curl Does no curl
Does not require finer yarn Require finer yarn
Unbalanced structure Balanced structure
Production cost is low Expensive then single jersey
Maximum covering power Low covering power then plain jersey
Less stable More stable
Less elastic property More elastic property

COMPARISON BETWEEN PLAIN AND PURL

PLAIN PURL
In one side all loops are face loop or all loops are In one side both face and back loop can
back loop exist
Plain fabric is less thick Thicker than plain
Its technical face is smooth and technical back is Is has similar appearance in both side
rough
Extensibility in lengthwise is normal but Extensibility in lengthwise is very high
widthwise is high but widthwise is moderate
tendency to curl No curling tendency
Has laddering problem No laddering problem

laddering problem
IDENTIFICATION OF SINGLE JERSEY AND DOUBLE JERSEY FABRIC

Single jersey
➢ All face loops are in one side and all back loops are in the other side.
➢ Both sides are should be different appearance.

Double jersey
➢ Both sides of the fabric contain only face loops (basic rib and interlock fabrics) or only back
loops (basic purl fabric) or combination of face and back loops.
➢ Both sides are same appearance for basic and balanced structure but different on other
structures.

BASIC LOOP/ STITCH


There are three basic loops:
➢ Knit loop or stitch
➢ Tuck loop or stitch
➢ Miss loop or stitch

KNIT LOOP/ KNIT STITCH


➢ A knitted loop or stitch is produced when a needle receives a new loop and knock over the
old loop that it held from the previous knitting cycle.
➢ At least three course and three wales which form loop, then it is called knitted stitch.

➢ When the needle is raised sufficiently high by the camming action to obtain the yarn in the
hooked portion of the needle and the old loop is below the latch (i.e. the old loop is cleared), a
knit stitch is will be formed as the needle descends.

TUCK LOOP/ TUCK STITCH


➢ A tuck loop or tuck stitch produced when a needle holding its old loop and also receives the
new loop, which becomes a tuck loop because it is not intermeshed through the old loop.
➢ A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and knitted loops.
➢ Head of the tuck is visible on the reverse of the stitch.
➢ Fabric with tuck stitches is thicker than knit stitches.
➢ The tuck stitch fabric is heavier in weight per unit area then the knit stitches.
➢ The tuck stitch reduces fabric length and lengthwise elasticity.
➢ Fabric width is increased.
MISS STITCH OR MISS LOOP OR FLOAT STITCH

➢ Miss loop is produced when a needle holding its old loop but fails to receive the new yarn
which passes as a float loop to the back of the needle.
➢ A float stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more float loops and knitted loops.
➢ The float stitch is created in the fabric when a needle is inactive.
➢ The float stitch shows the missed yarn floating freely on the reverse side of the held loop.
➢ Float stitch fabrics are narrower than equivalent all knit fabrics.
➢ The wales are drawn closer together by the floats, thus reducing widthwise elasticity.
➢ The maximum number of successive floats on one needle is four.
➢ Float stitch make the fabric thinner than tuck stitch.
➢ It makes the fabric narrower.
➢ Less extensible than either knitted or tucked stitches.
➢ Fabric is lighter in weight due to minimum yarn used in construction.

HELD LOOP
➢ A held loop is an old loop that the needle has retained.
➢ It is not released and knocked- over until the next or a later yarn feed.
➢ A held loop can only be retained by a needle for a limited number of knitting cycles before it
is cast-off.
DROP OR PRESS OFF STITCH
➢ A drop stitch fault will result if a needle releases its old loop without receiving a new one.

(https://youtu.be/zUjSbq47a1w?si=QAkxkYKmVi7up-1w)

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