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Controlling a Hella VNT-actuator using PWM

(https://www.mu!u.fi/controlling-a-hella-vnt-
actuator-with-pwm/)

! 28/05/2018
" 3 Comments (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Controlling-A-Hella-Vnt-Actuator-With-
Pwm/#Comments)
# Projects (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Category/Projects/)

I’ve had a couple of Garrett turbochargers laying around for some time now,
a GT2056V from a E60 525d and a GT2260V from a E46 330d Euro4 to be
specific. I originally bought these for my 320d as upgrade-turbos, but with
so many other projects and stu! to do, i just haven’t got the time to swap in
a bigger turbo. I’m working on my summer car at the moment, and it needs
an actuator to control a flap/valve, so i thought why not borrow one from
these turbos as they’re just wasting space at the moment.

The Actuator
 (https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/054B7CB9-E7C9-
4893-BDEB-EAED21293156.jpg)

I dismantled the actuator from the GT2056V, took it apart, and gave it a
quick cleanup. Looking inside, everything looked OK. No excessive wear on
the mechanical parts, and no broken solder joints or melted components on
the circuit board.
(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_5591.jpg)

Once put back together, it was time for some googling around. The actuator
i have is labeled 6NW 008 412
412, which is the same number as most of these
actuators seem to be. Another identification found on the plastic case is the
number 2 , and there is also a G-****
G-****-tag on the metal casing, these two
identify the OEM manufacturer and type of the actuator.
(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_5613.jpg)

It seems there are two ways of controlling a actuator like this, PWM and
CAN
CAN. The control method depends on how the unit is programmed upon
manufacturing, and cannot be easily changed. Some sources tell that the
actuator can be controlled with either one, but i tested this with my PWM-
controlled actuator, and it definitely didn’t send out any messages on the
CAN-bus, as it’s manufactured for a PWM-application.

Actuator Pinout
Pin # Function

1 12V+
2 GND
3 CAN

4 PWM
5 CAN
Well, how do you find out which type of actuator you have? In my case it was
easy as the connector & a bit of stripped wiring was supplied with the
turbocharger & actuator. On the connector, pins 1,2 and 4 were connected,
in other words, +12V (red), GND (brown) and PWM (grey). If you don’t have
the connector, Google will be your best friend.

(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_5592.jpg)

Controlling the actuator

The PWM control signal depends on the OEM manufacturer request. Some
actuators need a 140Hz PWM signal, while others accept 300Hz. There
might also be other frequencies, but these two are the most typical ones on
this type of Hella actuator. The signal is of grounding type, which means that
the actuator outputs a steady signal on the PWM pin which is then
modulated by a microcontroller grounding that pin in a timed sequence to
achieve the desired PWM output.

I will ultimately control the actuator with my aftermarket ECU, but for testing
purposes i hooked it up to my Arduino MEGA2560. Any Arduino or
programmable microcontroller capable of PWM will be just fine though.
Using Arduino, there are a couple things that needs to be taken into account:

The signal levels on the Arduino are 5V, while the VNT-actuator works with
12V, therefore some kind of level shifter has to be used. I used a TIP120-
transistor.

With Arduino “real” PWM you cannot achieve 140Hz or 300Hz easily, or at
least i couldn’t. I didn’t try to modify the timers/registers further, but used
“software PWM” instead, manipulating the pins manually.

Wiring
So, for connecting everything you need an Arduino, a transistor, a 1k
resistor, a breadboard and some wires.
(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/wiring.png)

The power supply feeds power to the Arduino and VNT actuator. PWM-
signal is applied through a current-limiting 1k resistor to the Base of the
TIP120, this is the “control signal” for the transistor. The PWM signal from
pin 4 on the actuator is routed to the Collector of the TIP120. When Arduino
applies voltage to the Base of the TIP120, current will flow through the
TIP120 from the Collector to the Emitter. As the Emitter side is tied to GND,
the PWM line will be grounded. This sequence, done in correctly timed
cycles, will produce the control signal needed for the VNT actuator to
function.

The Code

Arduino
1 /*
2 * Simple sweep for testing a Hella VNT-actuator @ 300Hz.
3 * Uses digital pin 13 for PWM.
4 */
5
6
7 void setup
setup() {
8 pinMode
pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
9 }
10
11 void loop
loop() {
12
13 // SLOW SWEEP UP
14 for (int sweep = 0 ; sweep <=3333 ; sweep += 6) {
15 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
16 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(sweep);
17 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
18 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(3333 - sweep);
19 }
20
21 // SLOW SWEEP DOWN
22 for (int sweep = 3000 ; sweep >=166 ; sweep -= 6) {
23 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
24 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(sweep);
25 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
26 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(3333 - sweep);
27 }
28
29
30 // FAST SWEEP UP
31 for (int sweep = 0 ; sweep <=3333 ; sweep += 33) {
32 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
33 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(sweep);
34 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
35 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(3333 - sweep);
36 }
37
38 // FAST SWEEP DOWN
39 for (int sweep = 3000 ; sweep >=166 ; sweep -= 33) {
40 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
41 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(sweep);
42 digitalWrite
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
43 delayMicroseconds
delayMicroseconds(3333 - sweep);
44 }
45
46 }

The result
 Hella VNT Actuator + Arduino PWM

As seen on the video, the actuator works just fine. It seems that this kind of
actuator doesn’t like under 5% or over 95% duty cycle, and will possibly wind
itself to start position if those limits are exceeded. Good to know if you’re
controlling something critical.

-K-

BMW E9x K-CAN-bus hacking with Arduino &

MCP2515 (https://www.mu!u.fi/bmw-e9x-k-
can-bus-hacking-arduino-mcp2515/)

! 11/12/2017
" 13 Comments (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Bmw-E9x-K-Can-Bus-Hacking-Arduino-
Mcp2515/#Comments)

# Cars (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Category/Cars/), Projects

 # Cars (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Category/Cars/), Projects
(Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Category/Projects/)

Hi there!

Lately i’ve been busy working on a way to get some relevant information (like
RPM, throttle position, torque, coolant temp. etc) from my 320d, as i want to
build my own “info-screen” which will be displayed on the iDrive-display of
my car.
The best way to get extensive amount of engine operational data on any
E6x/E8x/E9x would surely be to hack into the DME/DDE K-Line and send
BMW-specific polls (in the same way that INPA/ISTA/Testo works using
EDIABAS), and at first i tried to go that way, but couldn’t get the
communication between my Raspberry Pi and the DDE6.0 on K-Line to
work, so i decided to try the K-CAN-bus instead. It turned out to be really
simple, using only an Arduino and an MCP2515-CAN-module.

My setup
Arduino Mega2560
MCP2515 CAN-module
some jumper wires

Connections
Name----Mega2560---MCP2515
INT-------2----------INT
MISO------50---------SO
MOSI------51---------SI
SCK-------52---------SCK
SS--------53---------CS
VCC-------5V---------VCC
GND-------GND--------GND

I use the Mega2560 for testing, but if i’m about to mount one permanently, i
will switch to a smaller board. I usually go for the Arduino Pro Mini, which is
small in size but has a decent amount of I/O and is easy to program with an
USB-to-TTL-programmer. The MCP2515 uses SPI, so it can be connected to
about all Arduino-models, only pin numbers will be di!erent.

The finished wiring looks like this:

(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/arduino_mcp2515.jpg)

Next, o! to find a suitable spot to tap into the K-CAN-bus. I used the wiring
at the iDrive-display power connector because i already was familiar with
removing the display (really simple, undo 2x TX10 screws and the screen
pops out). There are surely other better spots to tap into the wiring, but this
is one way to do it.
Wiring for the arduino (Black/Red cable) tapped into the K-CAN.
CAN H+ Green/orange, CAN L- Green:

(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/wiring.jpg)
Screen back in, ready to be tested:

(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/assembled.jpg)

Software
Next, the Arduino needs the correct software. Fortunately, there are many
suitable CAN-libraries online that seem to work with the MCP2515. I used
Cory J Fowlers MCP_CAN_lib
(https://github.com/coryjfowler/MCP_CAN_lib)
(https://github.com/coryjfowler/MCP_CAN_lib). There is an example
sketch in the library called CAN_receive which will work on the BMW K-
CAN-bus with some minor modifications.

From:
MCP_CAN CAN0(10); // Set CS to pin 10
To:
MCP_CAN CAN0(53); // Set CS to pin 53
Because i’m using pin 53 on the Arduino Mega2560 for CS.
From:
if(CAN0.begin(MCP_ANY, CAN_500KBPS, MCP_16MHZ) == CAN_OK)
To:
if(CAN0.begin(MCP_ANY, CAN_100KBPS, MCP_8MHZ) == CAN_OK)
Because the bus on my pre-LCI E91 is 100kb/s K-CAN (the newer ones from
2007 onwards have D-CAN @ 500kb/s). The frequency change from 16MHz
to 8MHz is because my MCP2515-chip has an 8MHz oscillator, your module
could be di!erent.

After sketch was uploaded and ignition turned on, there was a nice
continous stream of K-CAN-bus data on my serial terminal.

Standard ID: 0x130 DLC: 5 Data: 0x41 0x51 0x2D 0x00 0x01
Standard ID: 0x0AA DLC: 8 Data: 0xAD 0x81 0xFC 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x84
0x00
Standard ID: 0x1B8 DLC: 6 Data: 0x0F 0xC0 0x83 0x02 0xA0 0x21
Standard ID: 0x4A7 DLC: 8 Data: 0x40 0x52 0xFF 0x01 0xFF 0xFF 0xFF
0xFF
Standard ID: 0x1A6 DLC: 8 Data: 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x60
0xF8
Standard ID: 0x0C0 DLC: 2 Data: 0xFE 0xFF
Standard ID: 0x1B8 DLC: 6 Data: 0x0F 0xC1 0x83 0x02 0xA0 0x21
Standard ID: 0x349 DLC: 5 Data: 0x90 0x1A 0x9A 0x20 0x00
Standard ID: 0x1B4 DLC: 8 Data: 0x00 0xC0 0xE2 0xF9 0x00 0x30 0xFC
0x80
Standard ID: 0x0CE DLC: 8 Data: 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
0x00
Standard ID: 0x1A0 DLC: 8 Data: 0x00 0x80 0x00 0x00 0x80 0x00 0xC8
0x6B
Standard ID: 0x1D0 DLC: 8 Data: 0x61 0xFF 0x42 0xC5 0x00 0x00 0xCD
0xB0
I was surprised how much data is actually passing through all the time!
So how about interpreting the data? That’s something i will write about later.

If you’re in a hurry, this site

(http://www.loopybunny.co.uk/CarPC/k_can.html) will get you started in
understanding the data in the K-CAN-bus.

-K-

Tuning for economy

(https://www.mu!u.fi/tuning-for-economy/)

! 27/11/2017
" 4 Comments (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Tuning-For-Economy/#Comments)
# Cars (Https://Www.mu!u.fi/Category/Cars/)

Nowadays, modern Common Rail diesel-engines are equipped with all kinds
of anti-pollutant devices, eg. DPF, EGR. While these may bring pollutants
down to a level that passes regulations, they inevitably also put more strain
on the engine, and are also prone to break and cause problems with
clogging etc. The software of the ECU is also designed to work with these
devices, and the engineers have to find a compromise between pollutants,
power and consumption. I have ditched the first one, and concentrated on
the last two on my daily driver.
DISCLAIMER: Don’t take my words for granted, i do not have a degree in
Automobile Engineering or diesel engine development. This is only my
personal experience that i’ve gained on the subject in the last two years
while studying the Bosch EDC16 ECU via trial and error. Engine tuning is
also a very broad topic, so i’m not going to go deep into details.

While tuning for power on a EDC16-equipped BMW is relatively easy and

information is easy to find online, there seems to be relatively big di!erences
in ways that people tune for economy. Most popular tuners/companies don’t
touch anything in the cruising speed area in the software maps, which is the
area that you spend most of the time driving the car. This means they simply
are not tuning for economy. Customers are nevertheless reporting a
decrease in fuel consumption, but rarely with any hard evidence to support
their claims. I have spent the last year trying out di!erent setups to get my
fuel consumption down, and i think i can say i’ve been somewhat successful.

In my opinion, there are a couple of things that make tuning for economy
di"cult.

1. Not having access to a dynamometer

When making adjustments, the test conditions should always be
exactly the same, so that any positive or negative change can be
observed. The most accurate tests one can make without a
dynamometer is driving the same route at same speed and in
exactly the same weather conditions
(temperature/wind/humidity). This is rarely achieved in real word.
The problem is not that big when measuring power and
performance, but when it comes down to identifying a 0.1-
0.2ltr/100km di!erence in consumption, you really can’t tell if you
can’t be sure that the testing conditions are 100% equal.

2. Understanding the function principles of the engine

What happens when EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is turned
o!? Does the engine benefit from running with less boost on
 cruising-areas? Does the VE (Volumetric E"ciency) of the engine
su!er from pumping losses generated by closed VNT on the
turbocharger? One has to understand the functions of di!erent
parts.

3. Everything a!ects everything

There is not a single adjustment to make the engine consume less
fuel, but many small changes in the right places can make a big
di!erence.

I have over 100 000km worth of average consumption data from my daily
driver. The car is a BMW E91 320d (M47B20TÜ) 6-speed manual with
approximately 380 000km on the clock and tuned to 208hp/497nm. The
average consumption is calculated everytime i fill up, and can be easily
tracked in a smartphone app.
(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/fuelups.png)

As you can see, the all-time average consumption is 6.6 l/100km at the
moment, while the last fill-up was 5.4 l/100km and all-time best 5.1
l/100km.Looking at all charted fuel-ups from the past three years, you can
clearly see a downward trend during the last 12 months.
(https://www.mu!u.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/320d_allfuelups.png)

Earlier, no matter how i drove (urban or city-driving) the consumption was

always between 6.5-6.9 l/100km. Now, it seems i’m averaging at about one
liter less, 5.5-6.0 l/100km.

So, what are the modifications made to achieve this? Here you go:

Air/Boost
From the factory, lambda is >3 at cruise areas, which means that
the amount of air going into the engine can be halved, and the
engine will still be running lean and e"cient.
Lowering boost helps to a certain amount, the theory behind this
is simply that the engine is running “lighter” because of opened
VNT-vanes on the turbocharger
With only lowered boost/too much lowered boost, the engine will
perform well on a straight road, but response will be a!ected,
since the turbo has to spool up from a lower pressure than before.
This leads to noticeably higher fuel consumption during transient
operation (eg. when accelerating to maintain speed up a hill).
Some tuners actually put more boost on cruise areas, i assume
that’s not for economy but for better throttle response. With more
air, the engine is able to inject more fuel instantly, not having to
wait for the turbo to spool up.

Conclusion: Lower the amount of air/boost, but not too much, or it will
a!ect things in a negative way.
 Rail Pressure
Decreasing rail pressure makes the high pressure pump rotate
easier (because of less pressure build-up), and therefore the
engine should also rotate easier. The downside is that the duration
of injection will be longer to maintain the same injection quantity.
With less pressure, the spray from the injector nozzle will not be
as good as with higher pressure.
Increasing rail pressure makes the high pressure pump rotate
heavier, but the duration period will be shorter, which means a
bigger bang (higher cylinder pressure) in the cylinder. The spray
pattern of the injector / atomization of the fuel will also be better.

Conclusion: Raise the rail pressure on cruise areas up to 10-20%. The extra
strain that the high pressure pump puts on the engine is easily defeated by
the benefits of better and faster combustion.

SOI (Start Of Injection)

Advancing SOI is a sensitive topic, as over-advancing will destroy
the engine really quick. The burning process in the cylinder is a
very di"cult thing to predict, and there are a lot of variables that
comes into play when thinking about best SOI.
In areas where EGR normally is active (i assume EGR is turned o!),
there usually is a noticeable dip/valley in the SOI-maps. This dip
can be smoothened out optimal consumption.
Furthermore, it is possible to add more SOI for the whole cruise
area, but it really is guessing as long as one doesn’t have access to
a cylinder pressure measurement device or a decent
dynamometer.

Conclusion: Advance SOI in EGR areas (if EGR is turned o!) to get rid of
the dip in maps, if there are any. SOI can furthermore be safely advanced
about 1-2 degrees at cruise areas, more than that will require a
dynamometer or a cylinder pressure measurement device, if you don’t want
to risk damaging your engine.
Your comments are welcome, feel free to agree or disagree

-K-

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