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Plague Doctor Plush Sewing Pattern

The document provides a sewing pattern for a chubby plague doctor plush toy, detailing its historical background and playful design. It includes templates for the doll and various clothing items, along with instructions for printing and assembling the pattern. Additionally, it offers a list of starter tools and materials needed for sewing, ensuring that both beginners and experienced crafters can create this unique plush companion.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)

1K views

Plague Doctor Plush Sewing Pattern

Uploaded by

lelemoraisdasilva0

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

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chubby

plague doctor
plush sewing pattern

www.cholyknight.com
chubby plague doctor plush 2 introduction

chubby
plague doctor plush sewing pattern
Before the common protective gear that medical professionals wear today, some doctors
as early as the 17th century wore special masks to keep out bad air from infected areas.
These bird-like masks were filled with aromatic items, believing that making the air
smell good would reverse any ill effects of the bad-smelling decay and disease.
It's easy to see how such a design has endured for centuries! The iconic white beaked
mask combined with the full black clothing is a striking sight. The stark empty eyes can
look especially foreboding. However in this pattern, we're playing up the silliness of the
bird-like qualities and giving the classic plague doctor a chubby and playful update!
This pattern comes with templates for a simple chubby body along with all the classic
plague doctor clothes to dress them up! Included is a double-breasted coat, hat, belt
with pouch, and a capelet with either a collar or hood. It will make a cute and pudgy
companion if you're getting over any illness!

sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2020 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
chubby plague doctor plush 3 pattern key

patter n key
The templates for the doll and clothing can be found at the end of these
instructions, pages 47-57.

doll: coat:
pg. 1-3 pg. 4-5
pg. 47-49 of pg. 50-51 of
document document

A5 A7 B3
A8 B4
A2
1
A4
A6 2 A1
3 B2
4 5
B1
A3

E1 D3
C4 C1 D2

6 7 8 9 10 11
E3
C2
E2 D1
C3
capelet w/ hood: capelet w/ collar: belt: hat:
pg. 6-8 pg. 7-8 pg. 7-8 pg. 9-11
pg. 52-54 of pg. 53-54 of pg. 53-54 of pg. 55-57 of
document document document document

letter piece letter piece letter piece

doll (A): coat (B): hat (D):
A1 mask B1 front D1 side
A2 bottom beak B2 back D2 top
A3 head front B3 sleeve D3 brim

A4 head back B4 facing belt (E):

capelet (C): E1 belt
A5 body front
C1 front E2 pouch
A6 legs
C2 back E3 pocket
A7 body back
A8 arm C3 collar
C4 hood

sew desu ne?

assembl ing patter n

g
To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 47-57. If you’re
unfamiliar with printing and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.

1. print the test 2. measure the test 3. collect the pages

square. square With the settings all right, print
At the print dialog box, check Get a ruler and measure the test the remaining pattern pages you
the box that says print at “Actual square to be sure it matches need.. Be sure you have the right
Size” or 100%. Any other selection the dimensions printed in the ones by noting the page numbers
(such as “Fit to page”) will distort pattern. If it’s smaller than the in the corner.
the pattern so it’s slightly larger printed size, increase your printer
or smaller and we don’t want settings. If it’s larger, decrease the
that. Set it to print the test printer settings.
square, found on page 47.

4. trim the margins 5. tape the pages 6. cut the pieces

It’s likely your printer will have a To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
margin that ensures your image match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can also
doesn’t print to the very edge. diamond shapes. Each diamond just cut them straight from the
Assembly will be easier if you will have a letter, so it’s simply printer paper -- be sure that each
trim off this blank margin edge. a matter of matching A1 to A2, piece is fully taped together along
This will give you pages that B3 to B4 and so on. The faint the joins so they don’t fall apart
overlap slightly during assembly. gray lines indicate the border of when you cut them.
If you trim across the gray outline every page; you should be able to
boxes, this will give you pages line those up as well. When the
that don’t overlap but rather butt diamond goes together, tape it in
against each other. place.

sew desu ne?

Starter tools
If you’re new to sewing and a little baffled by all the sewing tools needed to get started,
check out the list here. It describes all the absolute basics for tackling a project in a format that
lets you choose how much you want to spend. Some of these items you might already have around
the house!
As you collect tools for your arsenal over time, consider adding tools that are more job-specific --
these items come with the note suggesting buying all 3. Just buy these in the order shown as your funds
allow. This will build your collection from more generic tools to more specific, and you’ll be able to tackle
more techniques and projects in the future!

GOOD BETTER BEST

your hands! starter mid-range
sewing machine

Takes a bit longer machine machine

than using a Found at Usually found at
machine, but you department stores sewing machine
have more control for $50-150. dealers for
over where All you need is $150-400. Will
you stitch. Great for when you’re a straight and zigzag stitch, and have fewer issues than a cheaper
starting out or fine detail work! preferably variable stitch length. machine. Best if you’re serious
about sewing.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

craft scissors fabric embroidery
Anything that scissors scissors
scissors

will cut paper Cost $5-15 at Tiny and accurate,

and fabric. Might most sewing these are ideal for
cause some stores. Much precise cutting
frustration, but it’ll get you started. sharper and should only be used for work and getting where larger
fabric. Spring-loaded varieties are scissors can’t reach.
easy on your hands.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

all-purpose heavy duty thread
thread thread conditioner
thread

Most basic Nice for hand Prevents tangles

polyester threads sewn parts in your thread
are perfect for that need extra for machine and
plush sewing. strength, like hand-sewing.
Nothing fancy required. attaching heads, eyes, & noses, etc.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

plastic head metal pins ball-point
pins Pins with a metal pins
pins

All-purpose pin in head; safe to iron. Ideal when using

a relatively long Small head is less knit fabrics
length. Big plastic likely to catch in plushes.
head is easy to thread while hand-sewing Ball-point pin tip
see, but melts when ironed. passes through knit fabrics easily.

sew desu ne?

GOOD BETTER BEST

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

sharps universal fabric

needles specific
needles

A basic
hand-sewing Can handle a needles
needle you’ll variety of basic If using special
always need plush fabrics fabric, pick up
regardless of on a sewing machine. Might be needles that are specific to it, such
whether or not you have a machine. troublesome on specialty fabrics. as stretch needles for knits.

chopstick point turner hemostats

point turning

Narrow and Specifically A medical tool

precise, but just designed to turn that’s narrow and
blunt enough points, so it works blunt but also
to avoid poking very intuitively. grips. Turns thin
holes in your Hard to get very pieces and grabs
project. Can find them everywhere. narrow areas though. stuffing. Incredibly useful.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

tape measure ruler/yard quilting ruler
Super cheap stick Measures in
ruler

and great for More accurate two dimensions;

measuring curves. than a tape great for quickly
Flexible so measure since it checking if things
it gets into won’t bend on you are parallel or
hard-to-reach areas. when measuring long distances. perpendicular.

pencils chalk fabric

fabric marking

Usually washes Great on dark marker

out or brushes fabrics. Brushes Specially
away. It’s hard away easily; designed to mark
to mark some even better with fabrics and wash
slippery or fluffy a cloth. Not as away with water.
fabrics. Chalk works better for that. precise as a pencil or a marker. Precise, clear, and easy to use.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

glue stick hot glue fabric glue
glue & basting

Washable kinds Creates a Ideal glue for

are great for quick-drying, basting fabric
basting fabric strong bond so together. Takes
pieces together it’s great for plush longer to dry but
that are tricky to pieces that are is best suited to
sew. Not the strongest bond, but it’ll awkward to hold together before fabric. More accurate than a glue
do. sewing. stick, so it’s good for small areas.

Seam ripper iron/ironing board

and...

Don’t need anything fancy for this. Unlike other types of sewing, plush
Everyone makes mistakes and projects don’t need much ironing.
everyone needs a seam ripper. But they’re handy for fusible web
applique or for pressing crisp fabrics.

sew desu ne?

doctor doll
In addition to the striking bird-beak mask, the base doll for this little doctor features a
chubby body and stumpy arms and legs. The body is constructed flat so the neck can be
sewn as one straight line instead of in a circle.

difficulty: skills needed:

• fusible web applique
• sewing curves (straight to curved pieces, inner to
This plush has a bit of curved outer curves, outer to outer curves, etc.)
sewing that might be difficult • basting
for those not accustomed to • darts
it. Be sure to pin your fabrics • matching notches and points
carefully to ensure accurate • ladder stitch
stitching. • y-seams
The larger challenge is perhaps
the time needed, as the doctor
has a lot of layers to wear to
makes:
make the full look. one plush: about 9" tall from bottom of feet to
top of head, 5½" wide, and 6½" long from back of
head to tip of beak

detail tip:
The finer mask details are done with an
embroidery machine (files are included in this
bundle). But the templates used are available
EXAMPLES: in these instructions in case you'd like to hand
embroider or paint them yourself (page 49).
arms
attached
at neck

stumpy
legs

sew desu ne?

paper on
materials: one side

• ¼ yd. of fabric for main body

• ¼ yd. or 9" x 9" of accent fabric for mask
• 3” x 3” scrap of black applique fabric (such as
felt, cotton, flannel) for classic eyes
• optional 2" x 2" scrap of white applique adhesive on
fabric for eye shines the other
• 4” x 4” scrap of light or heavy duty fusible
web
• note: for different eyes you may need fusible web
more fabrics, colors, and fusible web
A sheet of adhesive that is ironed
notions: onto fabric, so that fabric can then
be applied (i.e. appliqued) to a
• matching sewing thread
new fabric like an iron-on patch.
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine,
It comes in pre-packaged sheets
scissors, iron, ironing board, needles, pins,
and by the yard. Brands include
fabric marker, seam ripper, point turner or
Wonder Under and Heat n’
chopstick) *see 5 for more info
Bond
• poly-fil stuffing

suggested fabrics:
fleece
minky or fleece
Any of the variations of fleece and minky shown
at the left will work nicely for the body of this
anti-pill fleece pattern. Medium-weight versions with a bit of
stretch along the crosswise grain of the fabric work
the best. Try to avoid very thick versions of these
micro fleece fabrics, such as those meant for outdoor apparel.
Stretchy fabrics like these create a squat, round
cuddle fleece shape when stuffed. Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt
or cotton, won’t create this effect and result in an
elongated shape as shown.
minky

long pile minky

minky vs. felt

sew desu ne?

cutting fabr ic
g
With your supplies gathered and your pattern printed, you can finally move onto
cutting your fabric. If you’re unfamiliar with the procedure, see the steps here. Also
check out the cutting layout for an at-a-glance view of how your pieces should look.

1. place the 2. pin the 3. cut the fabric 4. clean the fuzz
pattern pattern Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake
Place pattern on the Pin the pattern in place, template, cut out the the excess fuzz away.
fabric, and make sure use pattern weights, or fabric. Cut the required
the stretch line matches trace the outline of the amount according to the
the stretch of the fabric. pattern with a washable pattern.
The nap line should go marker.
in the direction of the
fur.

cutting layout:

main body fabric s t r etch mask fabric

¼ yd.; 9” long

¼ yd.; 9” long
A2
A8 A8 A5 A7 A7
A1
n a p/ pil e

n a p/ pil e

A4 A4
A3 A3
A8 A8 A6 A6 A6 A6 A1
33” wide 9” wide

before you begin:

1. Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
2. Transfer any symbols and notches from the paper pattern if you haven’t already.
3. Note that a ¼” seam allowance is used in the project unless otherwise mentioned.

sew desu ne?

sew ing doll

g
let’s get started!
1. PREPARE THE FACE APPLIQUE
trace markings hold applique
onto paper side of piece while sliding
fusible web paper away

eyes - black
eye shines - white

a. Grab your fusible web and your eye templates and trace the pieces you desire for your doctor.
You'll need at least two eyes. But you can add additional eye shines if you desire.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of your applique fabrics.
The eyes should be fused to black, and the eye shines to white.
c. Cut out the face pieces and arrange the eyes on the mask (A1) piece from your accent fabric.
You can do this by setting your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right sides up). Align
the applique piece on top where the placement markings are. Then carefully pull the paper
pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.

2. FUSE THE APPLIQUE

a. Arrange the eyes first.
Fuse the eyes in place add smaller
with your iron (use a press fuse eye shines next
cloth -- such as a scrap eyes first
piece of cotton -- if you’re
using a polyester or fur
fabric like minky to avoid
melting the fabric).
b. Next, align the eye shines
(if you're using them) in
the same way. Follow the
guides from the paper If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces
pattern and the photos. fused without sewing, or you can sew them in place a
number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.

sew desu ne?

2a. OTHER APPLIQUE OPTIONS

4
2
applique
whip stitch 3
straight 1
stitch

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the
edge of the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from
the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whip stitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in
from the edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside
of the applique shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8”
in from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique
shape. Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.

3. ATTACH THE BOTTOM BEAK

sew right up to
stretch circle marking
line up circle mask to fit
markings along bottom
beak

a. Grab both your mask (A1) and bottom beak (A2) pieces. In this step, the bottom edges
of the mask will be attached to the sides of the bottom beak. You'll find the paper pattern has
circle markings for extra help in matching them up.
b. Stretch the mask piece to fit along the side of the bottom beak, matching up the circle
marking at the point.
c. Sew one of the mask pieces to the bottom beak along this edge. For best results, stop precisely
at the circle marking at the tip of the beak and go no further. This will make step 5 easier
later.

sew desu ne?

4. COMPLETE BOTH SIDES

a. Open up the pieces when
complete, and the mask open up pieces
when complete
should look something like
the first image.
b. Repeat step 3 with your
remaining mask (A1)
piece on the other side of
the bottom beak (A2). all seams come
Try to stop your stitching together at circle
marking
exactly where your
previous seam from step
3 was. All three pieces
should meet together at
the circle marking.

5. SEW THE TOP OF THE BEAK

a. Finally, align your mask
pieces (A1) with right sides sew down
line up
facing so the top edge top edge
to circle
marking
matches up. of mask

b. Sew from the top corner

of the mask down to the
circle marking at the tip
of the beak. Try to stop
exactly where the other
seams stop for best results. a b
c. Trim the excess seam
allowance at the tip of the
beak, and clip the seam
allowances on the curves
of the previous seams.
d. Turn the mask right side
out and the tip of the beak
should make a nice point.
trim or clip seam turn right
allowances at
c d
side out
corners

sew desu ne?

6. SEW THE HEAD FRONT

head front pieces
make a ring

line up sew short

head front straight
pieces edges only

a. Grab your head front pieces (A3). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the head front pieces together along the two short straight edges at the top and bottom.
c. Open up the pieces when complete. It should form a ring with a hole in the center.

7. FLIP THE HEAD FRONT PIECE

mask will be inner edge is
sewn inside ring flip head now outer edge
front piece

a. Grab your mask (A1/2) from before. We'll be attaching the head front ring around the
outside of the mask.
b. Begin by taking the head front (A3) and flipping it so the inner edge is now the outer edge.
c. When done properly, the wrong side of the fabric should be facing up. Note that the head front
also has notches along the inner curve, these should be pointing outward now.

sew desu ne?

8. ATTACH THE HEAD FRONT

match sew all
up notches around
and seams mask

flip head
front outside

a. Align the head front (A3) over the mask (A1/2) with right sides facing.
The center top seam on the head front should match up with the center seam of the mask.
The notches on the inner curve of the head front should match up with the notches on the
mask (to help keep the curve even).
And finally the center bottom seam on the head front should match up with the center notch
on the bottom beak (A2).
b. Sew the head front to the mask all the way around.
c. When complete, the mask should be sewn evenly inside the inner opening of the head front.

9. SEW THE HEAD BACK DARTS

fold
along blend
point of stitching
dart into fold

darts:
a. Grab your head back pieces (A4). Note the small wedges on the A wedge-shaped gap
bottom of each piece. These are darts. To sew them, start by folding found in a pattern. When
the head back piece in half along the point of the dart and match up sewn in fabric, it creates
the slanted lines that make the wedge shape. a tuck in the fabric and
develops a 3D shape.
b. When sewing the dart, start at the opening and stitch down to the The diagonal sides of
fold. Blend your stitching into the fold as evenly as possible so it the wedge are the legs;
makes a smooth transition and a rounder finished plush. these are matched up
and sewn to the point
c. Open up the pieces when complete and repeat with your remaining of the dart.
head back piece for two completed darts total.

sew desu ne?

10. SEW THE HEAD BACK

a. Grab both of your head
back pieces (A4). Align
them with right sides sew
facing and raw edges only top
corner
matching up.
b. If you haven't already,
locate the opening for
turning markings found
on the paper pattern for
the head back. Transfer
them over to the wrong
side of the fabrics.
Sew the head back pieces together along this edge, starting at the upper corner. Stop once you
reach the opening for turning.
The head back should only be attached at the top corner. This is so we can later (step 19) sew
the neck edge as one straight line rather than in a circle.

11. SEW THE HEAD

line up
top seams

leave neck
open

a. Grab your attached head back pieces (A4) and your head front so far (A1-3). Align the
head back over the head front so the top center seams match. Pin together the outer curved
edges. Leave the shorter curved edge at the bottom free; this is for the neck later.
b. Sew the head back to the front along this outer curved edge.
c. Turn the head right side out when complete.
→ Set aside the head for a moment while we work on the body.

sew desu ne?

12. SEW THE BODY DART

fold along
point of dart
blend
stitching
into fold

a. Grab your body front piece (A5). Find the dart on the center bottom and sew it similarly to
previous darts. Fold it in half along the point of the dart and match up the slanted lines.
b. Sew the dart starting at the opening and work down to the point. Blend your stitching into the
fold for a smoother transition and a rounder finish.
c. Flip the body piece with right side up when complete.

13. ATTACH THE FRONT LEGS

a. With your body front
line up
(A5) ready, also grab two body & points 1 & 2
of your leg pieces (A6). leg curves
These will be attached to will come
together 2
the bottom curves of the 2 2 1

body front. They're also 2 1 1 2 2 1

labeled with numbered 1 1

points to help with
alignment.
b. Stretch the curve of the
body front to fit along the
a b
top of the leg. Match up
points 1 and 2. sew along curves repeat for
both legs
c. Sew along the edge with
points 1 and 2. 2
1

d. Repeat with your

remaining leg piece on
the other side of the body
front, and it should have
both legs attached as
shown. c d

sew desu ne?

14. ATTACH THE BACK LEGS

body & leg curves repeat for both
will come together sew along back pieces
points 2 & 3
2
1

2
2
2 2
1 1
1
1

a. Grab your body back pieces (A7) and your remaining two legs (A6). Repeat the same
process as in step 13, sewing the legs to the curves found on the body back.
b. Line up the curves, matching points 1 and 2. Sew along this edge with points 1 and 2.
c. Repeat with the remaining leg piece and body back piece so you have a pair.

15. SEW THE SIDES

sew only
partway repeat on
match up both sides
point 2 down side

2 2
2 2 2 2

stop a
little after
point 2

a. Grab your body front and back pieces with the legs attached. We're going to attach the
back to the front at the sides, but only going part way down the leg.
Line up one of the back pieces with the front piece, matching up the leg seam (point 2).
b. Sew the back to the front along this edge. Start at the upper corner and sew past the leg seam
(point 2) by about 1". Stop there for now. We'll finish sewing the rest of the legs later (step 21).
Repeat with your remaining body back piece on the other side.
c. Open up the body when complete, and this should leave one long edge along the top for the
neck.

sew desu ne?

16. SEW THE ARMS

leave open
for turning

a. Grab your arm pieces (A8). Take two and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along the curved edges. Leave the straight edge free for turning the arm
right side out later.
c. Turn the arms right side out through the opening you left before.

17. ATTACH THE ARMS

align arms over baste arms
side seams to neck edge
stuff lightly

a. Stuff the arms lightly with stuffing to avoid extra bulk.

Leave them empty near the top as we'll be attaching the basting:
arms to the body next. A form of temporary sewing
meant to hold pieces in place. A
b. Take your arm and align it over the side seam (from step 15) long stitch length is often used
so the raw edges aligns with the neck edge. for this reason. The finished
result is not meant to be seen
c. Baste the arms to the top edge of the body to hold it in place and sometimes is even removed
while we add the head. later (depending on your
project).

sew desu ne?

18. PREP THE NECK EDGES

a. Grab your head from
before (A1-3). Open up the
center
neck edge and it should seam
make one continuous line matches to
neck notch
b. We'll be attaching this to
the neck edge of the body
in the next step.
Note that the center front open up neck
edge of head
of the body has a notch
which will match up with
the center seam on the
head front (A3).

19. SEW THE NECK

line up head sew along
to neck neck edge

a. Align the head over the body, matching up the center notch along the neck edge. Pin the
fabrics together.
b. Sew the head to the body along the neck edge.
c. Flip the head upward when complete.

sew desu ne?

20. SEW THE BACK

leave
flip head open for
wrong line turning
side out up back
edges

sew down
to bottom
corner

a. Flip the head so it's wrong side out.

b. Next, turn the plush onto its side. This should show how the back of the head now joins with
the back of the body.
Pin the back edge fabrics together, matching up the neck seams and working down to the
bottom corner of the body (between the legs).
c. Sew the back edge of the plush, starting at the bottom of the opening for turning on the
head back. Work down past the neck seam and finally stop at the bottom corner of the
body. This should leave an opening in the back of the head.

21. SEW THE LEGS

flip
front continue
side up seams
from step
15
sew
around
legs

line up legs

a. Next, flip the body so the front is facing up (still wrong side out).
b. We'll be sewing the rest of the legs together, so line up the outer edges of the legs as well
as the edge in between the legs. The back seam (from step 20) and the front dart (step 12)
should line up.
c. Sew around one leg, across the space in between, then around the other leg. This should
continue your stitching where you stopped in step 15 for the sides.

sew desu ne?

22. TURN THE BODY

stuff legs first

flip
right side
out

clip seam
allowance at
corners

a. Clip the seam allowance at the corners between the legs. This will help increase flexibility in
those areas when the body is turned next.
b. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the back of the head.
c. Begin stuffing the body firmly with stuffing. Start with legs, getting plenty into the tips so they
don't deflate later. Next, fill up the body firmly so there are no longer wrinkles in the seams
and darts.

23. STUFF THE BODY

bring needle out near
fill up one edge of opening
fill up rest of
beak head
firmly

a. Next, move onto stuffing the head. Get plenty into the tip of the beak, especially so it doesn't
deflate later. Continue filling the head from the beak backward.
b. Finally fill up the rest of the head with stuffing.
c. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and
prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert
the needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near one edge of the opening.
This will leave the knot inside the plush.

sew desu ne?

24. LADDER STITCH CLOSED

ladder stitch pull at thread
closed while clipping
bring
needle out
1"-2" away

a. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch

into the fold of one side of the opening, then go across and
take another. Keep going down the opening until you reach the
end. 2 1
b. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam.
Then insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the
plush about 1-2” away. 4
3 seam allowance
c. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the (folded inside)

thread. The excess thread should sink back inside the plush --
all hidden!

sew desu ne?

coat
This classic double-breasted coat is a must for any plague doctor. It has no collar and a
neck and front facing to reduce bulk, since other garments will be layered on top. It also
has two rows of appliqued buttons, and long sleeves.

difficulty: skills used:

• sewing curved pieces
• edge stitching
This garment has a bit of curved sewing • finishing fabric edges
that makes things difficult, so be sure • sewing snaps or hook-and-loop tape
to sew slowly and pivot frequently. But • hemming
the tiny scale of this project is also a bit
troublesome. suggested fabrics:
materials & notions: • Lightweight fabrics work best for the
coat, since they show the small details
• ¼ yd. of fabric for coat better and won't add to the bulk of the
• closures: 4” of ⅜” wide ultra thin overall costume.
hook-and-loop tape, OR four ¼"-½" • Classic quilting cotton would be an
wide sew-in snaps easy choice. Thin apparel fabrics like
light twill, flannel, or light corduroy
would also be good and have a more
coat-like texture.

EXAMPLES: ultra-thin light

applique quilting hook-and-loop-tape twill
buttons cotton closure

sew desu ne?

fabric cutting layout:

coat fabric

¼ yd.; 9” long
B2 B1 B1
g r a in

B B
B3 4 4 B3
35” wide

before you begin:

sew ing g coat

let’s get started!

1. APPLIQUE THE BUTTONS

a. Grab one of your coat front pieces (B1).
applique
8 buttons Applique the buttons to the front of your coat following the
applique instructions from steps 1-2 of the doll section.
Trace 8 buttons from the paper template onto fusible web,
then fuse the adhesive onto the wrong side of your applique
fabric. Cut out the pieces, remove the paper backing, then
fuse them to the right side of your coat fabric to simulate
two rows of buttons.

sew desu ne?

2. HEM THE SLEEVES

a. Grab your sleeve pieces fold up
(B3). If your fabric frays, by ½"
take a moment to finish
the bottom edge.
to finish the
fabric: either sew a
zigzag stitch/straight
stitch along the edge of
the fabric, use fray block finish bottom

a b
on the edge, or trim the edge of sleeve
seam allowance with
pinking shears (zigzagging
is used in these photos).
press bottom edge
b. Fold up the bottom edge hem sleeve
by ½" with wrong sides
together.
c. Press the bottom edge so
it's crisp.
d. Sew close to the finished
edge of the fabric to hem
the sleeve. Repeat with the
other sleeve.
c d

3. SEW THE SLEEVE TO THE COAT

curves of
sleeves and coat line up
front to sew along
will be sewn curve
sleeve

a. Grab one of your coat front pieces (B1) and the coat back (B2). The curved edges of the
sleeve will join with the ones on the coat. These are labeled as armholes on the paper pattern
for easy identification.
b. Line up the coat front with the sleeve, matching up the curved edges and keeping right sides
together.
c. Sew the coat to the sleeve along the curved edge. Finish the seam when complete.

sew desu ne?

4. REPEAT FOR BOTH SLEEVES

a. Repeat step 3 with the neckline
sew coat
coat back (B2) on the back to
other side of the sleeve other side
(B3).
b. Repeat step 3 with your
remaining sleeve and attach
both
coat front pieces (B1). sleeves
Then attach that to the
other side of the coat back.
Finish the seams.
When complete, the
pieces should all be
joined together making
something like a circle.
The inner curve in the
middle is the neckline.

5. SEW THE SIDES

a. Take your coat so far and
line up
fold the front down to front and
meet the back with right back
sides facing. This will also
fold the sleeves in half.
Match up the straight
edges of the sleeve and the
sides of the coat front and
back. The armhole seams
a b
from steps 3-4 should sew down sleeve
and down side
match up as well.
b. Sew the sleeve and side at
the same time by stitching turn right
down the sleeve, pivoting side out
at the armhole, and going
down the side of the
coat. Repeat for the other clip seam
sleeve. Finish the seams. allowance
at corner
c. Clip into the seam
allowance at the corner

c d
of the sleeve to allow the
coat to turn easier.
d. Turn the coat sleeves right
side out.

sew desu ne?

6. SEW THE FACING

optional: attach
line up center sew along hook-and-loop tape
back edge of short end only
facing

finish outer
curve of facing

a. Grab your facing pieces (B4). Align them with right sides together and raw edges matching.
b. Sew the pieces together along the shortest straight edge found at the top. This is the center
back edge. Finish the seam.
c. Open up the pieces and finish the outer curve of the facing to complete.
→ pro closure tip: if you're closing the coat with hook-and-loop tape and would like
to avoid the stitching showing on the outside, attach the tape to the side of the facing
opposite your coat buttons. (Shown above, the tape is on the left side because the
buttons -- shown below -- are on the right).
Use the pattern guidelines for help with placement, then align it on the pretty side of
the facing fabric and stitch around the edge.
If this sounds confusing, you can also just attach the tape later in step 10. Your
stitching will just show on the outside.

7. ATTACH THE FACING

align facing
over neck and sew along
front edges neck and front

use ½" seam finish

allowance at bottom bottom edge

a. Return to your coat (B1-3) with the sewn facing (B4). Align the facing over the outer edge
the coat with right sides together. This should cover the whole neck edge as well as the front
edges and the corners of the bottom.
b. Sew the facing to the coat along the neck and front edges. For the bottom, use a ½" seam
allowance instead. This will give us a slightly longer hem. Finish the seam allowance.
c. Finish the bottom edge of the coat to prevent raveling.

sew desu ne?

8. FLIP THE FACING

trim seam flip facing
allowance at to inside
corners

fold up
bottom
edge by ½"

a. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corners to reduce bulk and increase flexibility when the
piece is turned next.
b. Flip the facing to the inside of the coat and define the corners with a chopstick or similar
turning tool.
c. Turn up the bottom edge of the coat by ½" with wrong sides together. This should make it
flush with the bottom corners as well.

9. ATTACH THE FACING

edge stitch top stitch
neck and front front facing

press all
edges of coat hem bottom

a. Press the edges of the coat around the neck, front, and bottom so all of the folds are crisp.
b. Secure all these folds and fabrics with some extra top or edge stitching:
1. Edge stitch along the neck and front edges, about ⅛" from the edge to hold the facing in
place.
2. Top stitch along the raw edges of the facing on the coat front (B1) only. This will create
some decorative stitches on the other side of the buttons and keep the facing from shifting.
3. Stitch near the bottom raw edge to hem the bottom.

sew desu ne?

10. ATTACH THE CLOSURE

scratchy side
behind buttons stitch around
tape to secure dress
it on!

soft side is just

inside top stitching

a. Attach your closure to the coat. Hook-and-loop tape is shown here.

Take the scratchy side of the tape and the button side of your coat front (B1). Place the
tape on the facing (B3) side. Align it near the edge using the paper pattern guidelines for
extra help.
Take the soft side of the tape and place it on the other coat front piece. Align it just inside the
edge of the facing, using the top stitching from step 9 as a guide.
b. Secure the hook and loop tape to the coat by stitching around the edge of the pieces.
c. To finish, pull the doll's arms through the sleeves and secure it up the front!
→ for snaps: follow the same placement instructions. Secure the ball end of your snaps
on the facing side of the coat, using the applique "buttons" as guides. Secure the prong
end on the other coat front piece just inside the top stitching.

sew desu ne?

capelet
This capelet adds to the iconic silhouette of the plague doctor, creating cover for the
shoulders and a great way to introduce same variety in texture or color. The pattern has
the option of either a collared capelet or a hooded one, depending on the look you desire.

difficulty: skills used:

The most difficult part of this project is sewing the neck. • sewing curved pieces
The seam is partially encased to avoid extra hand-sewing. • sewing snaps
Just be sure to double check your fabric placement before • ladder stitch
you start your seam.

materials & notions: suggested fabrics:

capelet with hood: • outer capelet: soft, light to medium
• ⅓ yd. of fabric for outer capelet weight fabrics would be especially nice
• ⅓ yd. of fabric for lining here to give a realistic feel to the finished
• one sew-in snap, ¼"-½" wide capelet. Thin fleece or corduroy, flannel, or
capelet with collar: soft twill would be good choices.
• ¼ yd. of fabric for outer capelet • lining: a fabric thinner than the outer
• ¼ yd. or 9" x 12" of fabric for lining fabric would be ideal here to avoid bulk.
• one sew-in snap, ¼"-½" wide Basics like cotton or flannel would work
just fine.
note: fluffy fabric or faux fur would make
corduroy
COLLAR outside for a fun lining, but keep in mind it will
VERSION: make the capelet tighter.

HOOD faux fur

VERSION: lining
cotton
lining thin
snap fleece
closure outside

flannel
outside
cotton
lining
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2020 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
chubby plague doctor plush 31 capelet

fabric cutting layout:

HOOD VERSION: COLLAR VERSION:
outer capelet fabric

⅓ yd.; 12” long

C2 outer capelet fabric
C4 C4
g r a in

¼ yd.; 9” long
C2 C3

g r a in
C1
C3
C1 C1 C1

31” wide 27” wide

lining fabric
lining fabric

¼ yd.; 9” long
C2

g r a in
⅓ yd.; 12” long
C2
C4 C4
gr a in

C1 C1
C1
C1 12” wide

31” wide

before you begin:

1. SEW THE SIDES

line up sew only
sides side seams
open up
pieces

a. Grab your capelet front and back pieces (C1-2) from the outer fabric. Align the front
pieces with the back at the side seams -- these are marked with double-notches for easy
identification. Bring right sides together and line up the raw edges.
b. Sew the capelet front to the back at the sides only.
c. Open up the pieces and press the seams when complete.

sew desu ne?

2. SEW THE CAPELET

line up outer leave
fabric & lining neckline open

repeat
step 1 with
lining

a. Repeat step 1 with your capelet lining pieces (C1-2).

b. Align the capelet from the outer fabric with the lining fabric so right sides are facing and raw
edges match up.
c. Sew the fabrics together all around the outer edge. Leave the inner curve alone -- this is the
neckline and we'll be sewing it later.

Choose your design: collar or hood!

If you're putting a collar on your capelet, follow the next steps, 3-5.
If you're adding a hood, skip ahead to step 6.

3. SEW THE COLLAR

a. Grab your collar pieces
(C3). Align them with right
sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along
the longer curved edge.
Leave the edge with the leave
notch free for turning the notched
edge open
collar later.
Turn the collar right side
out through the opening
and press it so the edges
look crisp.

sew desu ne?

4. ATTACH THE COLLAR

separate line up collar with
lining from outer capelet sew collar
outer fabric to outer
capelet

a. Grab your capelet so far and separate the outer fabric from the lining.
b. Take your sewn collar (C3) and line up the raw edge with the neck edge of the capelet on
the outer fabric only. For extra help, use the notches in the center to help align the collar. Pin
the fabrics together.
c. Sew the collar to the outer capelet from corner to corner.

5. SEW THE NECK

flip collar
to inside leave trim seam
open for allowance at corner
turning

a. Take your capelet and flip it wrong side out so the collar is tucked inside.
Line up the neck edge of the collar once again, but this time match up the lining fabric
with the collar. Pin the fabrics together and line up the center notches. This should completely
encase the collar inside.
b. Sew the neck edge of the capelet once more, but this time leave a 3-4" long opening for
turning in the center.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner of the capelet to reduce bulk when it's turned
later.

Jump ahead to step 10 to finish the capelet!

sew desu ne?

6. SEW THE HOOD

repeat for
lining

leave
front
and neck
edges
open

a. Grab your hood pieces (C4). Take the two outer hood pieces and align them with right sides
facing and raw edges aligning.
b. Sew the hood together along the top and back edges. These are marked on the paper pattern
for easy identification. Leave the front edge and neck edge free.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner of the hood to reduce bulk when the hood is
turned later.
Repeat this step with your lining pieces so you have two sewn hoods.

7. ATTACH THE LINING

sew front
tuck lining edge
inside hood

press
leave neck front
edge open edge

a. Turn the hood lining (C4) right side out, and tuck it inside the hood from the outer fabric.
This should leave right sides facing. Align the raw edges of the hood.
b. Sew the hood to the lining along the front edge. Leave the neck edge free.
c. Turn the hood right side out through the opening in the neck. Press the front edge of the hood
so it looks nice and crisp.

sew desu ne?

8. ATTACH THE CAPELET

align capelet sew capelet
separate hood to outer hood
lining and outer to outer hood
fabric

a. Grab your hood (C4) and place it with the outer fabric facing up and the neck edge pointing up.
Separate the outer hood fabric from the lining.
b. Take the neck edge of your capelet and align it over the outer fabric of the hood only. Match
up the center back notch with the hood seam. The neckline corners should match up as well.
c. Sew the capelet to the outer hood fabric only along this neck edge.

9. SEW THE NECK

match up hood lining
tuck capelet with capelet lining leave open
inside hood for turning

a. Open up the hood (C4), grab your capelet, and stuff it inside the hood.
b. Next, line up the neck edge of the capelet and hood once again. This time match up the hood
lining with the capelet lining. This should completely encase the capelet.
c. Sew the hood to the capelet along the neck edge again, but this time leave an opening for
turning in the middle, about 3-4” long.
When complete, trim the excess seam allowance at the corners of the neck to reduce bulk.

sew desu ne?

10. TURN THE CAPELET

a. Turn the capelet right side
out through the opening turn right
you left in the neck. side out press edges
of capelet
b. Define the corners with
a chopstick or similar
turning tool. Press the
edge of the capelet so
everything looks crisp and
neat.

11. CLOSE UP THE NECK OPENING

a. Turn under the seam hood collar
allowance in the opening version: version:
you left in the neck, and
ladder stitch it to the
capelet to close it up.

sew desu ne?

12. ATTACH THE SNAPS

ball
snap half of
placement snap
at front dress
corners it on!

socket half
of snap

a. Lastly, add the final snaps to secure the capelet at the neck. The snap placement guides can
be found on the capelet front (C1) paper pattern.
Attach the ball end of the snap on the lining half of the front piece, just below the corner
of the hood. Use heavy duty thread if you have it, or double over your current thread. Stitch
through each hole on the snap 2-3 times for a strong hold.
b. Attach the socket end of your snap on the other side of the capelet on the outer side of the
fabric.
c. Now you can dress it on your doll! Layer it over the coat, wrapping it around the neck and
securing it at the center.

sew desu ne?

hat
The plague doctor silhouette doesn't look quite right without some sort of head
covering. If you opted for a capelet with a hood (in the last project), you're all set. But if
yours just has a collar, you'll want to make this dignified hat! It has a simple flat top and
flat brim but it's just the right accessory for your doctor's head.

difficulty: skills used:

• sewing curved pieces
• using interfacing
This project has a lot of curved sewing, so
make sure to clip your seam allowances
whenever you have trouble getting pieces
to line up, it can make all the difference.
thin fleece
EXAMPLE: outer hat

materials & notions:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for hat
• optional ¼ yd. of lightweight
fusible interfacing
suggested fabrics:
• Soft, medium-weight, textured
fabrics give a nice look to the
finished hat. Corduroy and thin
fleece would be good choices.
Stretch fabrics are helpful but fusible
lightweight
not absolutely necessary. interfacing
• Interfacing is recommended so inside
the hat keeps its shape better
when finished.

minky
outer hat

sew desu ne?

fabric
main hat fabric
D3 D3

¼ yd.; 9” long
cutting

g r a in
layout: D1
D2
42” wide

fusible interfacing

¼ yd.; 9” long
g r a in
D3

D2
D1
33” wide

before you begin:

sew ing g hat

let’s get started!
1. FUSE THE INTERFACING
fuse interfacing to a. If you're using interfacing for your hat, take this opportunity
wrong side of fabric to fuse it now.
Align the adhesive side of the interfacing over the wrong
side of the fabric for each of your corresponding hat pieces.
Fuse it to the fabric following the manufacturer's directions.

sew desu ne?

2. SEW THE CROWN SIDES

a. Grab your side piece (D1).
sew along
Fold it in half with right
straight edges sides facing so the straight
edges match up.
b. Sew the crown pieces
together along the straight
edges to make a ring.

3. SEW THE SIDES TO THE TOP

align single
notches

sew around
align single crown top
notches with seam

a. Grab your top piece (D2). Align the larger opening of the
sides (D1) around the crown top. For extra help with
alignment, match up the notches as you pin the fabrics.
tip:
If your crown sides have
b. Sew the crown sides to the top all the way around. trouble stretching to fit around
the top, make small clips into
c. Turn the crown right side out when complete. the seam allowance to give it
more stretch.

sew desu ne?

4. SEW THE BRIM

a. Grab your brim pieces
(D3). Align them with right
sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
stitch
around outer b. Sew the brim pieces
circle of brim together around the outer
edge.
When complete, turn them
right side out through
the opening in the center.
Press the outer seams so
they look crisp.

5. SEW THE BRIM TO THE CROWN

wrap inner circle sew inner
align double to fit around crown circle of brim
notches

align seam

a b c
with double
notch

a. Grab your crown piece (D1-2) from before. Line up the opening of the crown with the inner
circle of the brim. There are double notches to match up to help with alignment.
b. Wrap the inner circle of the brim around the opening of the crown. Pin the fabrics together.
If you have trouble making it fit, make small ⅛" clips into the seam allowance of the brim to
help it stretch.
c. Sew the crown to the brim all around the edge.
dress it
d. Place it on your doll's head to complete! on!

d
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2020 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
chubby plague doctor plush 42 belt & pouch

belt & pouch

This simple belt is a fun last accessory to add to your doctor's outfit. It's a basic strap
secured by a snap with an added working pouch. It's a great way to add one last accent
color to your character.

difficulty: skills used:

• edge stitching
• ladder stitch
The hardest part of this project is likely
the tiny details in the small size and edge
stitching the belt. Keep and eye on your
needle as you work slowly for the best
results.

EXAMPLES:
quilting
cotton

secures
with a
snap

materials & notions:

• ⅛ yd. of fabric
• sew-in snap; ¼"-½" wide
suggested fabrics:
• Thin, crisp lightweight fabrics work nicely for
this project. Quilting cotton is an easy choice,
but light twill or corduroy would work as well.

sew desu ne?

fabric cutting layout:

belt fabric

⅛ yd.; 4½” long

E1
g r a in

E2 E2 E3

21" wide

before you begin:

sew ing g belt & pouch

let’s get started!
1. SEW THE BELT
leave open
fold in half for turning edge stitch
around belt

a. Grab your belt piece (U1). Fold it in half with right sides facing so it makes an even skinnier
strip.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for
the belt. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the belt fabrics together on
each side, but leave an opening in the middle where you marked.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at each end of the belt to reduce bulk.
Turn the belt right side out through the opening. Tuck the seam allowances inside so they're
flush with the rest of the belt. Press the belt firmly so all the edges are crisp. Then edge stitch
around the entire belt to finish it and close up the opening at the same time.

sew desu ne?

2. BASTE THE POCKET

place
pocket
along baste
bottom pocket
edge to pouch

fold with
wrong sides
facing

a. Grab your pouch pocket piece (E3). Fold it in half along the fold line with wrong sides
together. This should make a more square-like shape than before. Press the fabric so the fold is
crisp.
b. Grab one of your pouch pieces (E2). Align your folded pocket over the pouch piece so the raw
edges match up along the square bottom.
c. Baste the pocket in place within the seam allowance along the bottom edge of the pouch.

3. SEW THE POUCH BACK

align second pouch
piece over first
trim
seam
allowance
at corners
leave
open for
turning

a. Grab your other pouch (E2) piece and align it over the current one with right sides together.
Align the raw edges.
b. Sew the second pouch piece over the first, but leave an opening along the bottom straight edge
for turning the piece later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowances at the corners to reduce bulk when the piece is turned next.

sew desu ne?

4. TURN AND SEW THE POUCH CLOSED

flip pouch
ladder stitch to other side
closed
turn
right
side out

a. Turn the piece right side out through the opening you left.
b. Tuck the seam allowances into the opening and ladder stitch the opening closed. It doesn't
have to be especially pretty, as you won't see this stitching in the finished product. You could
also edge stitch it by machine for a quicker finish.
c. Flip the pocket to the other side of the pouch, and this will hide the ladder stitch you've just
done.

5. ATTACH THE POUCH

align machine
pouch or hand sew press flap
onto belt to belt downward

a. Place the back of your pouch onto your belt so the top of the pocket lines up with the edge
of the belt. You can place it wherever you like along the belt for the finished look you want, but
the sample has it about 2" in from one end.
b. You can ladder stitch the pouch to the belt for a clean, invisible look. Or for a faster finish,
attach it by machine by edge stitching up one side of the pouch, across the pouch (just above
the pocket), and down the other side.
c. Fold down the top of the pouch so it's like a flap that covers the pocket. Press the fold firmly so
it stays crisp.

sew desu ne?

6. ATTACH THE SNAPS

secure other side
secure ball wrap of snap where belt
end on one around overlaps
side of belt doll to
find
overlap

a. Grab your sew-in snaps as well as a hand-sewing needle and thread. Use heavy duty thread if
you have it, or at least double-over your regular thread.
Place the ball end of your snap on the underside of the belt (the side that will be facing the
doll). Center it near one end. Secure it to the belt, stitching through each hole 3-4 times for a
secure hold.
b. Wrap the belt around your doll (with the coat on) to find where it overlaps where you like.
Press the ball of the snap into the fabric to leave a mark.
c. Sew the socket end of your snap to the point where the metal left a mark in the fabric. This
should be on the side of the belt that faces out. Secure it in place as with the previous snap
piece, stitching through all the holes.

Congratulations!
Your doctor is
done!
Now give it a big hug!

sew desu ne?

NAP
measure this square to
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NA
  (A3) placement P
. 2/11
. 3/11

 
applique
Trace/cut 2 from
white
applique

applique
Trace/cut 2 from 
black applique
Trace/cut 16 from
accent color

 
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from black

hand embroidery options

 
hand embroidery
template  
hand embroidery
template
A1 A2
e

r
c
. 4/11

½” hem allowance

GRAIN
4)
 seam (B


g
nin


pe


B
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3 3

(
(B )o
 p eni
 ng


G R AI N
plague
doctor
plush sewing pattern
chubby doctor coat

B2
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
½” hem allowance
11 . 5/11
ack
center b


¼” seam allowance applique
Trace/cut 8 from
Cut 2 of main fabric accent color
B3

coat
chubby doctor

GRA IN
in g
en
op
3)

(B outer
buttons
 

A1 A2
GRAIN

outer
buttons
chubby doctor
coat

outer
buttons
B4
Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
r
chubby docto
coat

outer
buttons

B1in fabric ½” hem allowance

Cut 2 of ma
ance
¼” seam allow hook-and-loop
t
tape placemen

½” hem allowance
. 6/11

top
edg
e

GRAIN
plagu e
do
plush ctor
front edge

sewing pat
chubby doc tern
tor cape

C4
Cut 2 of m
B1 B2

ai
Cut 2 of lin n fabric
ing fabric
¼” seam al
lowance

ck
ba

edge
neck
11 . 7/11

chubby doctor


placement
E1

snap
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

chubby do
Cut 2 of lin wance
Cut 2 of m g fabric
¼” seam all


cape
C1
ain fabric
in
o

ctor

B3 B4
GRAIN

GRAIN
B1 B2


 (
C3)
 or

e
edg
eam s

ck
(C
ba la
4)
p
c
em
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t


 
chubby do
ctor cape
 in fabric
Cut 2 of ma
C3 ¼” seam all
owance
GRAIN

¼” seam allowance  

 ( C2) plac
Cut 2 of main fabric emen
E2 t

 (E3) placement
pl a gu e
GRA I N p
do
l uct
s h
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ch u b pa
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tor cape
Cut 1 o
C2
Cut 1 o f main fabric
f
¼” se lining fabr
a m a l lowanc ic
e
G R AI N

fold line

E3
B3 B4

¼” seam allowance
Cut 1 of main fabric
 
snap
placement
opening for turning
GRAIN
. 8/11 11
. 9/11

C1 C2
pl
plud o
ag
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sew t
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pa r ch
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
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t
11 . 10/11

(D1
) pl
ace
me
nt

plague
doctor
plush sewing pattern

GRAIN
chubby doctor hat

D2
Cut 1 of main fabric
Cut 1 of interfacing
¼” seam allowance
C1 C2

e nt
cem
) pla
(D1
 seam
 

(D3
) pla
ce men
t
N

C3 C4
AI
GR
. 11/11

at
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m
D1

sea
plush sewing pattern
plague
doctor

(

 

G R AI N

C3 C4
11
plush
plague doctor
doll expansion pack
plush sewing pattern

www.cholyknight.com
plague doctor doll expansion pack 2 introduction

plush
plague doctor doll expansion pack sewing pattern
This expansion pack allows you to use any of my humanoid doll patterns to make a cute
masked plague doctor!
Before the common protective gear that medical professionals wear today, some doctors
as early as the 17th century wore special masks to keep out bad air from infected areas.
These bird-like masks were filled with aromatic items, believing that making the air
smell good would reverse any ill effects of the bad-smelling decay and disease.
It's easy to see how such a design has endured for centuries! The iconic white beaked
mask combined with the full black clothing is a striking sight. The stark empty eyes can
look especially foreboding.
This pattern comes with templates to add onto my humanoid patterns. Included is
a new mask to recreate the face, a double-breasted coat, hat, belt with pouch, and a
capelet with either a collar or hood. It will make a cute and lovable companion if you're
getting over any illness!

sew desu ne?

patter n key
The templates for the mask and clothing can be found at the end of these
instructions, pages 38-46. If you're only interested in a specific garment, here's
where to find it and print it!
hat:
pg. 1-3
pg. 38-40 of
document
doll: applique:
pg. 1 D3 pg. 4
pg. 38 of A1 A2 pg. 41 of

1 2 3 4
document document

D1 D2
capelet w/ hood:
pg. 5-7
pg. 42-44 of
document
belt:
B4 pg. 9
C4 C2 B2 E1 E2 pg. 46 of

5 6 7 8 9
document
B3

C1 B1 E3
C3
capelet w/ collar: coat:
pg. 6-7 pg. 7-8
pg. 43-44 of pg. 44-45 of
document document

letter piece letter piece letter piece

doll (A): capelet (C): hat (D):
A1 mask C1 front D1 side
A2 bottom beak C2 back D2 top
coat (B): D3 brim
C3 collar
B1 front belt (E):
C4 hood
B2 back E1 belt

B3 sleeve E2 pouch

B4 facing E3 pocket

sew desu ne?

assembl ing patter n

g
To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 38-46. If you’re
unfamiliar with printing and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.

1. print the test 2. measure the test 3. collect the pages

4. trim the margins 5. tape the pages 6. cut the pieces

sew desu ne?

GOOD BETTER BEST

your hands! starter mid-range
sewing machine

Takes a bit longer machine machine

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

craft scissors fabric embroidery
Anything that scissors scissors
scissors

will cut paper Cost $5-15 at Tiny and accurate,

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

all-purpose heavy duty thread
thread thread conditioner
thread

Most basic Nice for hand Prevents tangles

polyester threads sewn parts in your thread
are perfect for that need extra for machine and
plush sewing. strength, like hand-sewing.
Nothing fancy required. attaching heads, eyes, & noses, etc.

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

plastic head metal pins ball-point
pins Pins with a metal pins
pins

All-purpose pin in head; safe to iron. Ideal when using

sew desu ne?

GOOD BETTER BEST

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

sharps universal fabric

needles specific
needles

chopstick point turner hemostats

point turning

Narrow and Specifically A medical tool

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

tape measure ruler/yard quilting ruler
Super cheap stick Measures in
ruler

and great for More accurate two dimensions;

pencils chalk fabric

fabric marking

Usually washes Great on dark marker

↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS ALLOW ↓

glue stick hot glue fabric glue
glue & basting

Washable kinds Creates a Ideal glue for

Seam ripper iron/ironing board

and...

sew desu ne?

doctor mask
This pack comes with new templates to replace the
human face from any of the human doll patterns. You'll
find simple eyes to create the classic look in applique.

so what is...?
templates MATERIALS: fusible web:
included • ¼ yd. of fabric for main
body
A sheet of adhesive that is
ironed onto fabric, so that
(pg. 92-94): • ¼ yd. or 9" x 9" of accent
fabric can then be applied (i.e.
appliqued) to a new fabric
• Mask fabric for mask like an iron-on patch. It
• Applique eyes comes in pre-packaged sheets
• 3” x 3” scrap of black and by the yard. Brands
also needed: applique fabric (such as felt,
cotton, flannel) for classic
include Wonder Under
and Heat n’ Bond
• Plush human eyes
pattern: • optional 2" x 2" scrap of white
Chibi Human, applique fabric for eye shines
Merpeople, or • 4” x 4” scrap of light or heavy duty fusible web
Centaur. • note: for different eyes you may need more fabrics,

skills used: colors, and fusible web

• Fusible web NOTIONS:

applique • matching sewing thread
• Y-seams • basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron,
ironing board, fabric marker, seam ripper,) *see page
5-6 for more info
• poly-fil stuffing

detail tip:
The finer mask details are done
with an embroidery machine (files
included in this bundle). But the
templates used are available in
these instructions in case you'd like
to hand embroider or paint them
yourself (page 41).

sew desu ne?

head cutting layout:

mask fabric head fabric
¼ yd.; 9” long

¼ yd.; 9” long
A2 SCALP

A1 HEAD HEAD
na p/ pi l e

na p/ pi l e

SCALP
BACK BACK

A1
CHIN
9” wide 11" wide

before you begin:

sew desu ne?

sew ing doll

g
let’s get started!
1. PREPARE THE FACE APPLIQUE
trace markings hold applique
onto paper side of piece while sliding
fusible web paper away

eyes - black
eye shines - white

a. Grab your fusible web and your eye templates and trace the pieces you desire for your doctor.
You'll need at least two eyes. But you can add additional eye shines if you desire.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of your applique fabrics.
The eyes should be fused to black, and the eye shines to white.
c. Cut out the eye pieces and arrange the eyes on the mask (A1) piece from your accent fabric.
You can do this by setting your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right sides up). Align
the applique piece on top where the placement markings are. Then carefully pull the paper
pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.

2. FUSE THE APPLIQUE

sew desu ne?

2a. OTHER APPLIQUE OPTIONS

4
2
applique
whip stitch 3
straight 1
stitch

3. ATTACH THE BOTTOM BEAK

sew right up to
stretch circle marking
line up circle mask to fit
markings along bottom
beak

sew desu ne?

4. COMPLETE BOTH SIDES

5. SEW THE TOP OF THE BEAK

a. Finally, align your mask
pieces (A1) with right sides sew down
line up
facing so the top edge top edge
to circle
marking
matches up. of mask

b. Sew from the top corner

sew desu ne?

6. ATTACH THE CHIN

line up notches and
circle markings

stretch chin to
fit along bottom sew between
of mask circle markings

a. With the mask finished, you can now treat it just like a new face in your doll's instructions.
First of which is adding the chin. If you haven’t already, locate the center notches and circle
markings on both the chin and the mask/bottom beak. Transfer them over to the fabric. These
points will match up next when we sew the chin.
b. The chin is a bit shorter than the mask (to help the mask pop out more). So stretch the chin
fabric to fit around the edge of the mask. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the chin to the mask by starting at one circle marking and going around to the other. The
notch markings match up in the middle.

7. ATTACH THE SCALP

line up sew between
center bend scalp
to fit along circle markings
seam and
circles mask

a. Continue with your original instructions to sew the scalp pieces together. Open them up
and prepare to attach them to the top of the mask, similar to the chin. The same circle
markings from the mask will match up with the corners of the scalp. The seam on the top of
the mask will match up with the seam on the scalp.
b. Stretch the inner curve of the scalp to fit around the top of the mask. Match up the circle
markings. The seam on the scalp will match with the top seam on the mask. Pin the fabrics
together.
c. Sew the scalp to the mask between the circle markings as before with the chin.

sew desu ne?

8. ADD THE HEAD BACK

line up top the
seams finished
head!

leave
neck
open

a. Continue with your doll instructions, but skip over creating ears or hair for your doctor. Stop
when you've constructed the head back pieces. Align the outside edge of the head back
around the head front you have so far.
The center back seam of the head back should line up with the center seam on the scalp.
b. Sew the head back to the head front along the longer curved edge. It will go around the scalp
and chin. Leave the shorter curved edge at the bottom free. This will be for the neck later.
c. This completes your head! You can now attach it to your doll's torso following the rest of the
instructions.

sew desu ne?

difficulty: skills used:

• sewing curved pieces
• edge stitching
This garment has a bit of curved sewing • finishing fabric edges
that makes things difficult, so be sure • sewing snaps or hook-and-loop tape
to sew slowly and pivot frequently. But • hemming
the tiny scale of this project is also a bit
troublesome. suggested fabrics:
materials & notions: • Lightweight fabrics work best for the
coat, since they show the small details
• ¼ yd. of fabric for coat better and won't add to the bulk of the
• closures: 4½” of ⅜” wide ultra thin overall costume.
hook-and-loop tape, OR four ¼"-½" • Classic quilting cotton would be an
wide sew-in snaps easy choice. Thin apparel fabrics like
light twill, flannel, or light corduroy
would also be good and have a more
coat-like texture.

EXAMPLES: ultra-thin light

quilting hook-and-loop-tape twill
cotton closure

sew desu ne?

fabric cutting layout:

coat fabric

¼ yd.; 9” long
B3
g r a in

B2 B1 B1 B B
4 4
B3
28” wide

before you begin:

sew ing g coat

let’s get started!

1. APPLIQUE THE BUTTONS

a. Grab one of your coat front pieces (B1).
applique Applique the buttons to the front of your coat following the
10 applique instructions from steps 1-2 of the mask section.
buttons
Trace 10 buttons from the paper template onto fusible web,
then fuse the adhesive onto the wrong side of your applique
fabric. Cut out the pieces, remove the paper backing, then
fuse them to the right side of your coat fabric to simulate
two rows of buttons.

sew desu ne?

2. SEW THE SHOULDERS

line up
shoulders press
sew along
shoulders toward back
only

a. Grab your coat front and back pieces (B1-2). Align one front piece with one back piece at
the shoulder edge -- the short straight edge between the armholes and neck.
b. Sew the front to the back at the shoulder only. Repeat with your other front and back piece so
you have a mirrored pair as shown. If your fabric frays, take a moment to finish the seam:
to finish the fabric: either sew a zigzag stitch/straight stitch along the edge of the
fabric, use fray block on the edge, or trim the seam allowance with pinking shears (zigzagging
is used in these photos).
c. Open up the coat and press the seams toward the back of the coat.

3. HEM THE SLEEVES

a. Grab your sleeve pieces fold up
(B3). Finish the bottom by ½"
edges of the fabric.
b. Fold up the bottom edge
by ½" with wrong sides
together.
c. Press the bottom edge so
it's crisp. finish bottom

a b
edge of sleeve
d. Sew close to the finished
edge of the fabric to hem
the sleeve. Repeat with the
other sleeve.
press bottom edge

hem sleeve

c d
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2020 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
plague doctor doll expansion pack 17 coat

4. ATTACH THE SLEEVES

a. Next is to attach the sleeve joins stretch armhole to
sleeve to the armhole of to armhole fit around sleeve
the coat. The tight curve
with the shoulder seam
in the middle is the coat
armhole. This will attach
to the upper curve of the
sleeve (called the sleeve
cap).
b. Stretch and bend the
armhole to fit around the
a b
upper curve of the sleeve.
Pin the fabrics together. sew coat repeat
to sleeve for both
c. Stitch the armhole to the sleeves
sleeve along this edge.
Move ½” at a time to avoid
puckers.
d. Repeat with your
remaining sleeve so both
sleeves are attached.
c d

5. SEW THE SIDES

a. Take your coat so far and
fold the front down to line up
meet the back with right front and
back
sides facing. This will also
fold the sleeves in half.
Match up the straight
edges of the sleeve and
the sides of the coat front
and back. The armhole sew down sleeve
seam from step 4 should and down side
match up as well.
b. Sew the sleeve and side at the same time by stitching down the sleeve, pivoting at the
armhole, and going down the side of the coat. Repeat for the other sleeve. Finish the seams.

sew desu ne?

6. TURN THE SLEEVES

a. Clip into the seam
allowance at the corner clip
seam
of the sleeve to allow the allowance
coat to turn easier. at corner

b. Turn the coat sleeves right

side out.

turn right
side out

7. SEW THE FACING

line up center optional: attach
back edge of sew along hook-and-loop tape
facing short end only

finish outer
curve of facing

a. Grab your facing pieces (B4). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the shortest straight edge found at the top. This is the center
back edge. Finish the seam.
c. Open up the pieces and finish the outer curve of the facing to complete.
→ pro closure tip: if you're closing the coat with hook-and-loop tape and would like
to avoid the stitching showing on the outside, attach the tape to the side of the facing
opposite your coat buttons. (Shown above, the tape is on the left side because the
buttons -- shown below -- are on the right).
Use the pattern guidelines for help with placement, then align it on the pretty side of
the facing fabric and stitch around the edge.
If this sounds confusing, you can also just attach the tape later in step 10. Your
stitching will just show on the outside.

sew desu ne?

8. ATTACH THE FACING

sew along
align facing over neck and front
neck and front edges

use ½" seam finish

allowance at bottom bottom edge

9. FLIP THE FACING

trim seam flip facing
allowance at to inside
corners

fold up
bottom
edge by ½"

sew desu ne?

10. ATTACH THE FACING

edge stitch top stitch
neck and front front facing

press all
edges of coat

hem bottom

a. Press the edges of the coat around the neck, front, and bottom so all of the folds are crisp.
Secure all these folds and fabrics with some extra top or edge stitching:
1. Edge stitch along the neck and front edges, about ⅛" from the edge to hold the facing in
place.
2. Top stitch along the raw edges of the facing on the coat front (B1) only. This will create
some decorative stitches on the other side of the buttons and keep the facing from shifting.
3. Stitch near the bottom raw edge to hem the bottom.

11. ATTACH THE CLOSURE

scratchy side
behind buttons stitch around
tape to secure
dress
it on!

soft side is just

inside top stitching

a. Attach your closure to the coat. Hook-and-loop tape is shown here.

Take the scratchy side of the tape and the button side of your coat front (B1). Place the
tape on the facing (B3) side. Align it near the edge using the paper pattern guidelines for
extra help.
Take the soft side of the tape and place it on the other coat front piece. Align it just inside the
edge of the facing, using the top stitching from step 10 as a guide.
b. Secure the hook and loop tape to the coat by stitching around the edge of the pieces.
c. To finish, pull the doll's arms through the sleeves and secure it up the front!
→ for snaps: follow the same placement instructions. Secure the ball end of your snaps
on the facing side of the coat, using the applique "buttons" as guides. Secure the prong
end on the other coat front piece just inside the top stitching.

sew desu ne?

difficulty: skills used:

materials & notions: suggested fabrics:

capelet with hood: • outer capelet: soft, light to
• ⅓ yd. of fabric for outer capelet medium weight fabrics would be
• ⅓ yd. of fabric for lining especially nice here to give a realistic
• one sew-in snap, ¼"-½" wide feel to the finished capelet. Thin fleece
capelet with collar: or corduroy, flannel, or soft twill would
• ¼ yd. of fabric for outer capelet be good choices.
• ¼ yd. or 9" x 12" of fabric for lining • lining: a fabric thinner than the outer
• one sew-in snap, ¼"-½" wide fabric would be ideal here to avoid bulk.
Basics like cotton or flannel would work
snap just fine.
COLLAR closure note: fluffy fabric or faux fur would
VERSION:
thin fleece make for a fun lining, but keep in mind
outside
it will make the capelet tighter.

thin
HOOD cotton fleece
VERSION: lining outside

cotton
lining

thin
fleece
lining

minky
outside

sew desu ne?

fabric cutting layout:

HOOD VERSION: COLLAR VERSION:
outer capelet fabric
outer capelet fabric

⅓ yd.; 12” long

¼ yd.; 9” long
C2 C3

g r a in
g r a in

C4 C4 C1
C1 C1
C3

C1
21” wide
30” wide

lining fabric lining fabric

⅓ yd.; 12” long

¼ yd.; 9” long
C2 C2

gra in
gr ain

C4 C4 C1 C1 C1
C1
12” wide
30” wide

before you begin:

1. SEW THE SIDES

line up sew only
sides side seams
open up
pieces

sew desu ne?

2. SEW THE CAPELET

line up outer leave
fabric & lining neckline open

repeat
step 1 with
lining

a. Repeat step 1 with your capelet lining pieces (C1-2).

Choose your design: collar or hood!

If you're putting a collar on your capelet, follow the next steps, 3-5.
If you're adding a hood, skip ahead to step 6.

3. SEW THE COLLAR

sew desu ne?

4. ATTACH THE COLLAR

separate line up collar with
lining from outer capelet sew collar
outer fabric to outer
capelet

5. SEW THE NECK

flip collar
to inside leave trim seam
open for allowance at corner
turning

Jump ahead to step 10 to finish the capelet!

sew desu ne?

6. SEW THE HOOD

repeat for
lining

leave
front
and neck
edges
open

7. ATTACH THE LINING

sew front
tuck lining edge
inside hood

press
leave neck front
edge open edge

sew desu ne?

8. ATTACH THE CAPELET

align capelet sew capelet
separate hood to outer hood
lining and outer to outer hood
fabric

a. Grab your hood (C4) and place it with the outer fabric facing up and the neck edge pointing up.
Separate the outer hood fabric from the lining.
b. Take the neck edge of your capelet and align it over the outer fabric of the hood only. Match
up the center back notch with the hood seam. The neckline corners should match up as well.
c. Sew the robe to the outer hood fabric only along this neck edge.

9. SEW THE NECK

match up hood lining
tuck capelet with capelet lining leave open
inside hood for turning

sew desu ne?

10. TURN THE CAPELET

11. CLOSE UP THE NECK OPENING

a. Turn under the seam hood collar
allowance in the opening version: version:
you left in the neck, and
ladder stitch it to the
capelet to close it up.

sew desu ne?

12. ATTACH THE SNAPS

ball
snap half of
placement snap
at front dress
corners it on!

socket half
of snap

a. Lastly, add the final snaps to secure the capelet at the neck. The snap placement guides can
be found on the capelet front (C1) paper pattern.
Attach the ball end of the snap on the lining half of the front piece, just below the corner
of the hood. Use heavy duty thread if you have it, or double over your current thread. Stitch
through each hole on the snap 2-3 times for a strong hold.
b. Attach the socket end of your snap on the other side of the robe on the outer side of the fabric.
c. Now you can dress it on your doll! Layer it over the coat, wrapping it around the neck and
securing it at the center.

sew desu ne?

difficulty: skills used:

materials & notions:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for hat
• optional ¼ yd. of lightweight EXAMPLE:
fusible interfacing thin fleece
outer hat
suggested fabrics:
• Soft, medium-weight, textured
fabrics give a nice look to the
finished hat. Corduroy and thin
fleece would be good choices.
Stretch fabrics are helpful but
not absolutely necessary.
• Interfacing is recommended so
the hat keeps its shape better
when finished.

fusible
lightweight
interfacing
inside

sew desu ne?

fabric
main hat fabric
D3

¼ yd.; 9” long
D3
cutting D2

g r a in
layout: D1
38” wide

fusible interfacing
D3

¼ yd.; 9” long
D2
g r a in

D1
30” wide

before you begin:

sew ing g hat

sew desu ne?

2. SEW THE CROWN SIDES

3. SEW THE SIDES TO THE TOP

align single
notches

sew around
align single crown top
notches with seam

sew desu ne?

4. SEW THE BRIM

5. SEW THE BRIM TO THE CROWN

wrap inner circle sew inner
align double to fit around crown circle of brim
notches

align seam

a b c
with double
notch

belt & pouch

difficulty: skills used:

EXAMPLES:
quilting
cotton

secures
with a
snap

materials & notions:

sew desu ne?

fabric cutting layout:

belt fabric

⅛ yd.; 4½” long

E1
g r a in

E2 E2 E3

19” wide

before you begin:

sew ing g belt & pouch

let’s get started!
1. SEW THE BELT
leave open
fold in half for turning edge stitch
around belt

sew desu ne?

2. BASTE THE POCKET

place
pocket
along baste
bottom pocket
edge to pouch

fold with
wrong sides
facing

3. SEW THE POUCH BACK

align second pouch
piece over first
trim
seam
allowance
at corners
leave
open for
turning

sew desu ne?

4. TURN AND SEW THE POUCH CLOSED

flip pouch
ladder stitch to other side
closed
turn
right
side out

5. ATTACH THE POUCH

align machine
pouch or hand sew press flap
onto belt to belt downward

sew desu ne?

6. ATTACH THE SNAPS

secure other side
secure ball wrap of snap where belt
end on one around overlaps
side of belt doll to
find
overlap

Congratulations!
Your doctor
is done!
Now give it a big hug!

sew desu ne?

lp
/ s ca ent
in m STR
chlace
p ET
CH ¼” seam allowance
Cut 1 of mask fabric
A2
P


NA


doll
ap
pla pliqu
cem e

NAP
ent
d A1 A2
oll


 (A 

A1

1) p
Cut
¼” 2 of m

lace
sea
m a ask fa

ent m
llow bric
anc

 e en
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 em
( la c
A2
)p
lac 3 )p
em (D
en 
t

TEST SQUARE
2”
measure this square to
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper
proportions
h at
ll 
do  ric
D1
a b
f ing
a i n ac e
m terf anc

u e f
1 o of in allow
g orttern
t
Cu t 1 am

l a tg pa Cu ” se
¼
p oscewin
d
p l u sh
/9 . 2/9

A1 A2

t
en
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la
N


(D1
) pl
I

ace
RA

me
nt
G

plague
m
en
t doctor
plush sewing pattern
e
G R AI N

doll hat
a c
pl
D 2)
(



D2
Cut 1 of main fabric
Cut 1 of interfacing
¼” seam allowance

t
en
lacem
)p
(D1
seam

. 3/9

t
ha
ll 
do 
ic
br
 3 fa ng
n ci e
D ai fa c
m ter an
of f in llow
t2 o a
Cu t 1 am
t
Cu ” se
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m
ce
t
en

la
¼

)p
em

1
lac

(D
)p

m
D1

ea
plush sewing pattern

s
(
plague
doctor



G R AI N
. 4/9

 
applique
Trace/cut 2 from
white
applique

applique
Trace/cut 2 from 
black applique
Trace/cut 16 from
accent color

 
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from black

hand embroidery

 
hand embroidery
template  
hand embroidery
template
. 5/9

top
edg
e

plagu e
do
plush ctor
sewing pa
ttern
doll cape

front edge

C4
Cut 2 of m GRAIN
ai
Cut 2 of lin n fabric B1 B2
in
¼” seam a g fabric
llowance

dge
cke
ba

edge
neck
e
/9

B1 B2
t
emen
4) plac
(Cm
sea

r
o
3)
(C





C3
doll ca

pe
N
AI

a g u e
GR

pl o r
c w
t
i n g a t
p tern
h se
dso
plu pe

¼” seam allowance
Cut 2 of main fabric
doll ca

C2ain fabric
GRAIN of m c

  (
Cut 1 lining fabri
of e
Cut 1 m allowanc
¼” se a

C2) plac
ent em
. 6/9

B3 B4
B5 B6
. 7/9

4)
(B
se a m


g
nin

 
 ( B 3 ) ope

(B 3) o p e

G


 in
n ce


R
g an ric

A
ow ab c
all g f bri
G R AI N

I
m in fa

N
ea lin in
” s of ma
¼ t 2 of 1
Cu ut 2 C  e
 p
plague  ll ca
C
do
doctor
t
en
m
ce ap
pla sn
plush sewing pattern
doll coat

B2
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
½” hem allowance

B3 B4
/9
. 8/9

½” hem allowance
g
nin
doll coat


Cut 2 of main fabric

¼” seam allowance

 ( B 3 ) ope
B4

doll coat

B3

outer
buttons



½” hem allowance


Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

outer

G R AI N
buttons
G R AI N
outer
buttons
G RA I N

outer
buttons
doll coat

B1 outer
buttons
Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

Trace/cut 10 from
accent color
hook-and-loop

applique

tape placement
½” hem allo
wance

B5 B6
/9
. 9/9

placement
snap

GRAIN
 (E3) placement
opening for turning


E2
Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

G RA I N
G R AI N
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

E1
doll

fold line

 
E3
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance

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