Basic Hand Stitches

Expert Group #1

Classification of Basic hand stitches

TEMPORARY STITCHES:
Tacking or basting is a temporary stitch used for holding two or more
layers of fabric together during fitting or before working the permanent
machine stitches. Usually the stitch is worked from right to left. This is the only
stitch which is started with a knot and is worked in white or light-coloured
thread that contrasts with the fabric so that it can be easily noticed and
removed once the permanent stitch is worked. Dark thread can leave marks
on a light-coloured fabric. The length of the stitches will vary depending on the
weight of the fabric and how securely the pieces have to be held together. To
end basting, make two stitches one on top of another. There are several types
of basting stitches, four of which are explained below:
1. Even basting
2. Uneven basting
3. Diagonal basting
4. Slip basting

Even basting : Use fine needle and start the stitch with a knot. The stitches
are of equal length about ¼” on both sides of the material. A number of
longer stitches can be worked at a time. This is used on smooth fabrics and
in areas that require close control, such as curved seams, seams
with ease and set-in sleeves.

2. Uneven basting: In this, the stitches on the upper side are ½” or at least
twice that on the under side (¼ ”). This stitch can be used for longer folds
and seams. Use this type of tacking as a guideline or where there is little or
no strain.

3. Diagonal basting: This consists of horizontal stitches taken parallel to

each other and producing diagonal floats in between. It is used to hold or
control fabric layers within an area during construction and pressing. Short
stitches, taken close together, give more control than do longer stitches taken
far apart. The short diagonal basting is used to hold seam edges flat during
stitching or pressing. The long diagonal basting is worked to hold underlining
to garment fabric during construction.

4. Slip basting: is a temporary uneven slipstitch that permits precise

matching of plaids, stripes, and some large prints at seamlines. It is also a
practical way to baste intricately curved sections, or to make fitting
adjustments from right side. Crease and turn under one edge along its
seamline. With right sides up, lay the folded edge in position along the
seamline of the corresponding garment piece, matching the fabric design; pin.
Working from right to left and using stitches 1 /4 ” in length , take a stitch
through the lower garment section, then take the next stitch through fold of
upper edge. Continue to alternate stitches in this way, removing pins as you
go.
 Basic Hand Stitches

Expert Group # 2
PERMANENT STITCHES:
1) These stitches are made permanent on the garment and need not be
removed later like temporary stitches. They are worked using matching thread
and the stitching line starts and ends with a back stitch. Some of permanent
stitches are ;
1. Running stitch
2. Back stitch
3. Run and back stitch
4. Hemming stitch
5. Slip stitching
6. Overcasting
7.Overhand stitch
8. Whipstitch.

1. Running Stitch: This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for
permanent sewing. This stitch is worked using same colour thread.
Handmade seams, tucks, mending, shirring, quilting, gathering and finishing
edges can be done with this stitch. It is similar to even basting, but the
stitches are much smaller, straight, fine and evenly spaced. The length of the
stitches vary from 1 /16 to 1 /8 inch in length. Pass the needle through the
fabric several times before pulling it through. It is comparatively easy and can
be worked fast.
2. Back stitch: This stitch is strong and sometimes substituted for machine
stitch. It takes much time. Care must be taken while stitching, since stitching
is done on the right side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric the stitch
is similar to stem stitch. Stitches should be about 1/8” long on the right side.
To make the back stitch, push needle up through the material at a point on the
stitching line about 1/8” from its right end. Take a stitch inserting the needle
1/8” back of the thread at the beginning of the stitching line and bringing it out
an equal distance in the front of the thread. Repeat this way, keeping stitches
uniform in size and fairly firm.
3. Run and back or Combination stitch: This stitch is a combination of a
back stitch and three to four running stitches. This is used where back stitch is
not compulsory and is used for working plain seam done by hand. This stitch
is faster than the back stitch and stronger than the running stitch.

4. Hemming stitch: This is used to hold the in place the bottom fold of the
garment usually known as the hem. Hemming must be fine, evenly spaced
and must be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment. Start the hem
with a tiny back stitch and finish with the same. Hemming must be as invisible
as possible on the right side of the garment. Work slanting stitch or vertical
stitch on wrong side, close enough to hold the hem securely, picking one or
two yarns of the fabric. Usually this stitch is seen in all types of garments.
Slant hemming stitch is quick to work, but is least durable because of the long
thread floats which are subjected to abrasion. Whereas vertical hemming
stitch is durable and stable stitch best suited for hems whose edges are
finished with woven edge or stretchlace seam tape.Very little thread is
exposed, reducing the risk of fraying and breaking.
 Basic Hand Stitches

Expert Group # 3

5) Slip stitching: This is a nearly invisible stitch formed by slipping the thread
under a fold of the fabric. It can be worked to secure hems and facings. It is
also used to attach patch pockets, trims, coat and jacket linings. Fasten the
thread beneath the hem, bringing the needle out through the edge of the fold.
Take a tiny stitch in the garment directly beneath the point where the thread
leaves the fold. Now insert the needle in the hem, slip it along inside the fold
and bring it out again about 1 /2 inch away. Repeat the stitch.

6) Overcasting: This is the customary hand stitch for finishing the raw edges
of fabric to prevent them from ravelling. In general, the more the fabric ravels ,
the deeper and closer the stitches should be worked. Take diagonal stitches
over the edge, spacing them evenly apart at uniform depth.

7) Overhand stitch: These tiny, even stitches are used to hold together two
finished edges, as, for example, when attaching lace edgings or ribbon to a
garment. Insert needle diagonally from the back edge through to the front
edge, picking up only one or two threads each time. The needle is inserted
directly behind thread from previous stitch and is brought out a stitch length
away. Keep the stitches uniform in their size and spacing.

8) Whipstitch: This is a variation of the overhand stitch, the main difference

being the angle at which the needle is held. Though generally used to join two
finished edges, it can also hold a raw edge neatly against a flat surface. Insert
needle at right angle and close to the edge, picking up only a few threads.
Slanted floats will be produced between the tiny stitches. Space between
stitches can be short or long, depending on the circumstances.

Other stitches

Tailors' Tacks
Tailors' tacks are threads laced through the fabric. They are used to mark two
thicknesses of material and should be made before the pattern is removed
after cutting out a garment. Use a long double thread. Take a small stitch
through the perforation of the pattern and into the double thickness of fabric,
leaving an end of thread about I inch in length. Take another stitch in exactly
the same place, leaving a large loop ; then cut the thread, leaving an end
about I inch long. If tailors' tacks are to be close together, the thread may be
carried from one tack to the other, and the same process repeated. The
thread is then cut between each tack so that the pattern can be removed.
Take the pattern off and separate the thicknesses of material as far as
threads will permit; cut in the center of the thread. This leaves threads on
each piece, marking both pieces of material in one process. Use.-To mark
position of pleats, tucks, darts, pockets, seam allowances and notches, where
two pieces are to be exactly the same.
 Basic Hand Stitches

Expert Group # 4

DECORATIVE STITCHES
Thread used for decorative stitches is selected to show contrast either in
color, texture, or weight with the fabric on which it is used. Cotton or
mercerized cotton is used on cotton fabrics. Silk or rayon thread is used on
silk and wool fabrics. Wool yarn is sometimes used on wool and silk fabrics.
Thread for decorative stitches is either made of several separate strands or it
may be a single thread loosely twisted. Strand thread gives a soft effect, while
twisted thread gives a harder effect. When decorative stitches are used on
washable fabrics the thread should be color fast. Embroidery, crewel, or
chenille needles should be used with heavy art threads.

Featherstitching
Featherstitching is made up of variations of the blanket stitch taken alternately
on the right and left sides of a center line. The stitches should be uniform in
size and direction, and equal distances apart. Suitable embroidery thread
should be used. 1.Single straight featherstitch is the center guide line. Bring
needle out at A, securing thread with several back stitches on wrong side.
Hold thread down with left thumb and insert needle at B, bringing it out at C,
forming a blanket stitch. Throw thread to the left and make stitch DE. The
distance between stitches BC and DE is usually twice the length of the stitch
taken. The needle is always put in fabric straight across from or just below
end of last stitch taken. Fasten thread with a short stitch to hold last blanket
stitch in place. Use as a decoration to form a design or to hold edges of hems
and facings in place.2. Single Slanting Featherstitch.-AX is the center of the
design. Bring needle out at A, securing thread on wrong- side with several
back stitches .. Insert needle at B, and bring it out again at C. Holding the
thread down with left thumb, put the needle in at D and bring it out at E,
joining a second blanket stitch. Repeat on opposite side. Use.

Blanket Stitch
The blanket stitch may be made on a finished or raw edge. The stitches
should be uniform in size and spacing, and perpendicular to the edge. Use
embroidery thread. Work from left to right, with material held along forefinger
of left hand and edge to be finished toward you. Fasten thread with back
stitches on back of narrow hem, or on raw edge with two or three running
stitches made toward edge. Bring the needle out on the edge to be finished.
By varying the length of the stitch and by grouping the stitches, attractive
variations may be made. Holding thread under thumb of left hand, place point
of needle in fabric the desired distance from the edge (this may be the width
of the narrow hem or about ¼ inch). Bring it out from the under side of fabric
and over thread from last stitch. The needle passes through a loop of thread
each time it is drawn from the fabric, so that when the stitch is finished a
thread follows along the edge of the fabric. Continue in this manner, inserting
needle to right of stitch just made. The stitches are usually a little less than ¼
inch apart. Fasten thread on wrong side with running stitches. Use to hold
narrow hems or appliqued designs in place, to finish raw edges of blankets or
garments, and to outline decorative designs.
 Basic Hand Stitches

Expert Group # 5

Outline Stitch
Outline stitches should be of even length and uniform slant. Work from left to
right, and follow the line of a design. Use suitable embroidery thread. Fasten
thread with several running stitches in the opposite direction from which work
is to be done. Take a stitch along the line of the design with the needle point
slanted toward the left shoulder and thread thrown to right of work. Make
each stitch overlap half way on preceding stitch. The thread always falls on
the same side of needle. Fasten thread with running stitches on wrong side of
work. Variations in this stitch are made by throwing the thread to the left for all
stitches, making the stitches shorter or longer, and by changing the slant of
the needle. U se.-As a decoration to outline a design or to hold a hem in place

Cross Stitch
This stitch forms a series of crosses. The stitches should cross in center;
cross in the same way and work in same direction with finished crosses
meeting. On wrong side, work is made up of horizontal and vertical lines. The
threads of the fabric, cross stitch.-Cross stitch. canvas, or a stamp design, will
serve as a guide. Use suitable embroidery thread. Begin at the top of the
design and work down. Fasten thread by leaving a long end on wrong side, to
be later held in place by cross stitching. Bring the needle out at A (Fig. 35),
insert at B, bring out at C, and insert at D, thus completing the first cross.
Bring the needle out at E to start the second cross. Insert at C, bring out at F,
insert at A, bring out at G, starting third cross. Repeat to end of row, then turn
material and work next row. If there is a long line of crosses to be made it may
be quicker to make all the stitches in the same direction :first, then cross them
all at one time. If working on canvas, draw threads tightly, so that when
canvas is removed thread will not be loose. When design is completed soften
canvas by rubbing it between the hands, or dampen slightly, and remove
threads singly.

Decorative

Running Stitch
Several rows of running stitches of varying lengths and different colors of
embroidery thread make attractive decorations.Use.-As a decoration on
heavier materials.

CHAIN STITCH
This stitch resembles the links of a chain. The stitches should be uniform in
size, they should all interlock, and each stitch or link should be dosed at the
top. Use embroidery thread. Fasten thread with several running stitches. Bring
the needle out at top of design to be chain-stitched and to the right side of
fabric. Hold the thread under the left thumb a little to the left of line of design.
Insert needle to the right of hole through which the thread just came, and
bring it out the length of a stitch in advance along the line of the design,
passing needle over thread held by thumb . Draw up the stitch to form a loop.
Make a short stitch over the last loop to hold it in place. Fasten thread with
back stitches on wrong side. Use.-As a decoration.
 Basic Hand Stitches

Performance Task: Compilation of Basic Stitches

Task Description: Every group will showcase your mastery of basic hand stitches by
creating a compilation of stitches on a long bond paper. Additionally, you will submit
a time-lapse video documenting your process. The compilation will serve as a visual
representation of your proficiency in executing different hand stitches, while the video
will provide evidence of your collaborative work and the progression of your stitching
techniques.

Rubrics: The following rubrics will be used to assess your performance:

Execution of Stitches (40%)

Accuracy: Consistency and correctness in executing each hand
stitch.
Neatness: Clean and even stitches without puckering or loose
threads.
Alignment: Proper alignment and positioning of stitches within the
designated space.
Technique and Variety (30%)
Mastery of Stitches: Demonstrating proficiency in executing a
range of basic hand stitches
Thread Tension: Maintaining consistent tension throughout the
stitches
Knots and Finishing: Properly tying knots and securing the thread
ends
Collaboration and Teamwork (15%)
Group Participation: Active involvement and cooperation within
the group.

Support: Assisting and providing guidance to group members as

needed
Time-Lapse Video Documentation (10%)

Clarity and Quality: Clear visuals, appropriate lighting, and

audible explanations.
Progression: Capturing the gradual improvement and refinement
of stitching techniques.
Collaboration: Showing effective teamwork and cooperation
during the stitching process.
Presentation (5%)
Presentation Skills: Clear and concise explanations of each hand
stitch
Engagement: Maintaining eye contact and demonstrating
enthusiasm during the presentation
 Basic Hand Stitches

Task Guidelines:

1. Each group member should contribute to the compilation by executing

and documenting at least two different hand stitches.
2. Use a long bond paper as the canvas for your stitches. Arrange and
label each stitch neatly on the paper.
3. The compilation should include a variety of basic hand stitches, such
as running stitch, backstitch, whipstitch, and blanket stitch, among
others.
4. Collaboration and teamwork are essential. Share ideas, provide
feedback, and support each other throughout the process.
5. Create a time-lapse video documenting the stitching process from start
to finish. Ensure clarity, focus, and audible explanations of the stitches
being executed.
6. Compile the final output (long bond paper) with a title, "Compilation of
Basic Stitches," and include the names of all group members.
7. Submit the long bond paper and the time-lapse video as proof of your
work.