JOHN E.

TRAISTER’S

First Book of
Beginner^s guide %o repairing and^efinishing firearms

Learn how to: K set up your own vyork bench complete with tools
individualize your firearms by sighting scopes and
adjusting triggers ^

» save money by doing repairs at home > / i

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 Department of Libraries

VERMONT DEPARTMENT OF
LIBRARIFS
NORTHEAST REGIONAL LIBRARY
23 TILTON ROAD
ST JOHNSBURY \/T 05819
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 FIRST BOOK
OF GUNSMITHING
 r

t. ..J

\
FIRST BOOK
OF
GUNSMITHING

John E. Traister

Stackpole Books
Copyright © 1981 by John E. Traister

Published by
STACKPOLE BOOKS
Cameron and Kelker Streets
P.O. Box 1831
Harrisburg, Pa. 17105

Published simultaneously in Don Mills, Ontario, Canada

by Thomas Nelson & Sons, Ltd.

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce thisbook or portions thereof
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission
in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole
Books, Cameron and Kelker Streets, P.O. Box 1831, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
17105

Printed in the U.S.A.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Traister, John E.
First book of gunsmithing.

Includes index.
1. Gunsmithing. I. Title.
TS535.T714 1981 683.4 81-14509
ISBN 0-8117-0633-8 AACR2
Contents
Preface 7

1. Introduction to Home Gunsmithing 11

2. Firearm Safety 19

3. Cleaning and Maintenance of

Firearms 25

4. A Place to Work 37

5. Tools that Work 47

6. Materials and Supplies 81

 7 . Sight Work 89

8. Trigger Repairs and Alterations 105

9. Stock Repairs and Alterations 117

10. Checkering 133

11. Ornamental Work on Firearms 147

12. Metal Refinishing 159

13. Common Malfunctions 179

14. Improving Accuracy 189

Appendix 201

Glossary 207

Index 21
Preface

EACH YEAR A growing number of individuals enter the fascinating

field of gunsmithing. While some of these people make gunsmithing
a full- or part-time business, most make it a hobby, tinkering with
their own guns to keep them in and have the
first-class condition
pleasure of doing the work themselves. In doing so, these gun en-
thusiasts not only economize on the cost of repairs and alterations,
but obtain a better working knowledge of firearms in general.
When first getting started, however, it is important to absorb
the correct basic information. Taking your pride and joy apart with-
out first knowing the basic techniques can be discouraging, if not
downright distastrous. Getting a disassembled firearm back together
is one of the most frequent problems encountered by amateur gun-

smiths. They have very little trouble getting the gun apart, but
putting it back together again is a different story.
Or if the wrong kind of screwdriver is used on tightly seated

7
8 Preface

screws, the screw slot will certainly be damaged, revealing that an

amateur has tackled the job.
Then there are those who apply heat to a firearm say, to anneal
a receiver for drilling and tapping for a telescope sight. If the job is
not done precisely, it can lead to a forehead full of brass particles
or a couple of missing fingers. And in some cases the result could
be fatal.

Some gunsmithing jobs just are not suited for the home gun-
smith. These require proper tools or greater mechanical ability and
should be attempted only by a seasoned professional.
The chapters in this book are designed to start you out on the
right foot — taking first things first — detailing what jobs should be
performed by amateurs, and more important, what jobs should not
be tried at home.
Detailed information will show you how to work on guns safely
and how to handle them safely in the field or on the range. You
also
will learn how to care for firearms properly, insuring proper func-
tioning, accuracy, and appearance for many years to come.
You will know where and how to set up a work area in the
home, how to equip the shop, and how to use the tools to the best
advantage. You will learn some of the time saving devices used by
the pros, with detailed drawings and instructions to enable you to
build your own.
The remaining chapters deal with specific repairs and altera-
tions on firearms of all types. You will learn to mount sights, sight-
abused firearm, stock a shotgun or rifle,
in a rifle, refinish a badly
decorate a stock with checkering designs, and many other useful
projects. You will learn ways to improve the accuracy of a rifle or
handgun, and when one malfunctions, you will know how to go about
solving the problem.
Once you have decided upon a project, you will know where to
buy the tools and materials from the various suppliers listed in the
appendix.
With the knowledge derived from this book and with a little
practice, you will be thinking and acting like a pro in no time. Not
only will you gain a more complete understanding of firearms and
their care, but you will also gain a better working knowledge of
mechanical devices in general. You will learn to analyze all sorts
of mechanical problems and will be able to do the work yourself. For
Preface 9

example, if you notice a faucet dripping, you will be able to determine

why and make the repairs yourself— saving yourself money in repair
bills.

Happy gunsmithing, and I certainly hope that you derive as

much pleasure from this book as I have in writing it.

John E. Traister
1981
 1

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 Chapter

Introduction to Home
Gunsmithing

THERE HAS ALWAYS been a strong interest in home gunsmithing

among gun cranks, whether shooter, hunter, collector, or any com-
bination of the three. Today, as never before, this interest in gun
repair is at its highest and continues to grow at a very rapid pace.
Some reasons for this continued interest include an increase in lei-

sure time, a rise in the number of firearms needing repair or ad-

justment, a lack of sufficient gun repairmen, and a desire for custom
features on a firearm that, obtained elsewhere, cost a pretty penny.
Gun repair is not something that can be learned quickly by
buying a few tools —
and then tearing a gun apart although many
people start out exactly this way. More often than not, the gun ends
up being repaired by a professional gunsmith. The experience is so
discouraging that it is a long time (if ever) before the amateur at-
tempts to fix a gun again. These frustrations can be avoided (or at
least cut to the bare minimum) by following the suggestions outlined
in the following chapters.

11
 Fig. 1 1. Firearms offer individuals fine sport, for both hunting and target
practice. Note the ear protectors worn by the shooter.

SAFETY
and ammunition components are potentially dan-
All firearms
gerous. To eliminate accidents, certain safety precautions
must be
observed, and everyone involved with firearms must be
continually
alert. There is no halfway mark. For this reason
it is suggested that
the rules of firearm safety be read and reread.

FEDERAL FIREARMS REGULATIONS

There are certain firearm regulations that you should know
before getting involved with gunsmithing that can save
you much
grief. In some cases, this grief
has come in the form of ten years or
more in prison for some otherwise innocent citizens who were un-
fortunate enough to get caught in a firearms violation. Don’t
let this
happen to you. As long as these laws are on the books, abide
by
them.
In general, the law allows you to work on your own firearms
any time you wish. But if you work on another person’s guns,
even
just cleaning them, you must have a Federal
Firearms License or
else work for someone who has one. To qualify
for the license, you
must:
Introduction to Home Gunsmithing 13

Fig. 1-2. you were going to disassemble this Ruger Police Service-Six,
If
would you know where to begin? Would you know how to assemble it again?

Fig. 1-3. of the Ruger Police Service-Six. Such drawings,

An exploded view
available from the manufacturers for most modern firearms, are a great aid
in disassembling and assembling firearms since they show the relationship
of all parts.
 14 First Book of Gunsmithing

DEPARTMENT OF THE TREASURY FOR ATF USE ONLY FOR

BUREAU OF ALCOHOL. TOBACCO AND FIREARMS INTERNAL
REVENUE
APPLICATION FOR LICENSE SERVICE
UNDER II U.S.C. Chapter 44, FIREARMS CENTER
USE ONLY
1 NAME OF OWNE R OR CORPORATION: (If partnenhip.
.
include name of each partner)

2. TRADE OR BUSINESS NAME. IF ANY 3. employer identification number or SOCIAL security no.

4. NAME OF COUNTY IN WHICH BUSINESS IS LOCATED 5. BUSINESS ADDRESS (RFD orttreet no., city, ttate, ZIP code)

6 BLSINESS location (If no street addrete in item S. show directions A

distance from nearest P.O. or city limits)
7. TE LEPHONE NUMBER (Include Area Code)

BUSINESS --
RESIDENCE .

8. APPLICANT S BUSINESS IS APPLICANT'S BUSINESS "

3. IS LOCATED IN

individually OWNED A CORPORATION n

^ A COMMERCIAL
BUILDING
n
^ A RESIDENCE ifufrucrton

a PARTNERSHIP DoTHER (Specify) - D OTHER (Specify) -

10. IS ANY BUSINESS OTHER THAN THAT FOR WHICH THE LICENSE 11. DATE APPLICANT DESIRES TO COMMENCE BUSINESS
APPLICATION IS BEING MADE CONDUCTED ON THE BUSINESS PREM REQUIRING A LICENSE
SES. at "Ye. ’’give the general nature of that buiineu)

YES NO
® 44 AS A (Place an (X) in column (b) of the appropriate line. Submit

TYPE OF LICENSE* "X" FEE

^ Pine AR^ other
a
Than destructive devices or ammunition por other than destructive
c
'
tlSCl.VUh.S Hiprs. Shotsum. devices
Hc.oh*r$ AmmuntUon only. Cun$mith and .\otwnal firvarm. A<t (NFA! Wtaponti $10

2
dealing in firearms other than destructive devices or ammunition for firearms other Than
destructive devices $25

3 COLLECTOR OF CURIOS AND RELICS (.Vo(» Om,! Hem. 14 and IS 11 chtched har, and no olhar licen.a, are aopliad (or I
$10
6 MANUFACTURER OF AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS OTHER THAN DESTRUCTIVE DEVICES
$10

7 manufacturer OF FIRE ARMS OTHER THAN DESTRUCTIVE DE VICES

$50

DEVICES OR AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS OTHER THAN

" oTsTrLItivE oTviCEr®’""' $50
9 dealer IN DESTRUCTIVE OEVICESOR AMMUNITION FOR DESTRUCTIVE DEVICES
$1000

10 MANUF ACTURE R OF DESTRUCTIVE OE VICES OR AMMUNITION FOR DESTRUCTIVE DEVICES

$1000
1 1 IMPORTS R OR DESTRUCTIVE OEVICESOR AMMUNITION FOR DESTRUCTIVE
DEVICES $1000

•Note: AppUcants intending to engage in buiineu relaUng to NFA weapons (including

destructive devices and ammunition for destructive
devices) arc required to pay a special (occupational) tax before
commencing business (26 USC 5801).

3. PAYMENT FOR THE LICENSE. MADE PAYABLE TO

AMOUNT SUBMITTED
(Specify)
14 H(DURS OF 0 PERATION OF APPLICANT S BUSINESS
TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC DURING THESE HOURS?
Tim# Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednatday Thuriday Friday Saturday
OD«n YES
Close n NO (If no. give explanation on .eparate iheet.)
16. IS APPLICANT presently ENGAGEn
DURING PRECEDING TWELVE MONTHS
YES NO
PRESENT LICENSE NUMBER 19. DATE FIREARM BUSINESS COMMENCED

F BUSINESS OBTAINED FROM SOMEONE ELSE GIVE

20. NAME 21 LICENSE NUMBER

ATF Form 7 (5J10.12) (4-79) EDITION OF (4-7») MAY BE USED SERVICE CENTER

Fig. 1-4 Federal Firearms License Application.

If you will be using a name
for ^ur
business other than your personal name, such as "Acme Gun
Sales”
or Bonanza Guns, enter it in section 2. If you will
be operating out of your
or outbuilding, be specific and say so in section 9. For
type
of license ammunition-making, collector of firearms,
gun repair only, im-
porter of firearms— check the appropriate line in section
12. State the hours
you will be open, weekends included, in section 14. The back
of the form is
self-explanatory, but be sure to sign on the appropriate
line.
Introduction
22.
to Home Gunsmithing 15

DESCRIBE SPECIFIC ACTIVITY APPLICANT IS ENGAGED IN. OR INTENDS TO ENGAGE IN. WHICH WILL REQUIRE A FEDERAL
FIREARMS LICENSE (».$., iUaUr In rifUs. $Hotguns. Pvi-oltYrt and ammunition, daalar in ammunition only, gunamith, daaiar in machina
guna. ate.)

23.

24.

IS state or local LICENSE OR PERMIT REQUIRED FOR APPLICANT’S BUSINESS? (If "yaa". giva numban or if not obtainad. data
appUad forj
YES NO
LIST BELOW THE INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL OWNER. |iol« ou<n«r» rniul Includ* thtmaalvaa). PARTNER. AND
OTHER RESPONSIBLE PERSONS (a*a Jnatruetion 7) IN THE APPLICANT BUSINESS IF A FEMALE. LIST GIVEN NAMES AND MAIDEN.
IF MARRIED, «.j_ "MARY ALICE (SMITH) JONES," NOT MRS. JOHN JONES." (If additional $paca U naadad u$t a uparata ahaat.)

FULL NAME POSITION AND HOME ADDRESS PLACE OF DATE OF

SOCIAL SECURITY NO ZIP Cod4t BinTH BIATH

35 HAS A^UCANT on ANV PERSON listed ABOVE plac*onl*tby tht nomt and thaw tht <ity Qn<l 0 toU tt Hghti VES NO CITV
A held A federal FIRE ARMS LICENSE
B BEEN DENIED A FEDERAL FIREARMS LICENSE
C BEEN AN OFFICER IN A CORPORATION HOLDING A FEDERAL FIREARMS LICENSE STATE

0 BEEN AN EMFLOVEE RESPONSIBLE FOR FIREARMS ACTIVITIES OF A FEDERAL FIREARMS LICENSEE

GIVE FULL DETAILS ON SEPARATE SHEET FOR ALL "Yei" ANSWERS IN ITEMS 26 & 27
A CHARGED BY INFORMATION OR UNOER INDICTMENT IN ANY COURT FOR A CRIME PUNISHABLE BY IMPRISONMENT
36 FOR A TERM EXCEEDING ONE YEAR (S#« 1/ bttowt
IS applicant B A fugitive FROM JUSTICE
OR ANY PERSON
named in item c AN alien who IS illegally or unlawfully in the united states
34 ABOVE D UNDE R 31 YEARS OF AGE
E AN UNLAWFUL USER OF OR ADDICTED TQ MARIHUANA OR ANY DEPRESSANT STIMULANT OR NARCOTIC DRUG

37 A BEEN CONVICTED IN ANY COURT OF A CRIME PUNISHABLE BY IMPRISONMENT FQR A TERM EXCEEDING ONE YEAR (Sff 2/ btinwl
HAS APPLICANT 8 BEEN DISCHARGED FROM THE ARMED FORCES UNDER DISHONORABLE CONDITIONS
OR ANY PERSON
NAMED IN ITEM C BEEN ADJUDICATED ASAMENTALDEFECTIVEORBEEN COMMITTED TO ANY MENTAL INSTITUTION
34 EVER 0 RENOUNCED HIS CITi2ENSH|P ha VING BE E N A CITIZE N OF T HE UNITEDSTATES
28. CERTIFICATION: Under the penalties imposed by 1 8 U.S.C. 934. 1 declare that I have examined this application and the documents submitted

in support thereof, and to the best of my knowledge and belief, they are true, correct and complete-

^
SIGN
mereP
title DATE

FOR ATF USE

29 APPLICATION IS (Give reoions for terminated or dieapproved appUcation)

APPROVED DISAPPROVED*
terminated*
* LICENSE FEE WILL BE REFUNDED
BY INTERNAL REVENUE SERVICE
SIGNATURE OF REGIONAL DATE
REGULATORY ADMINISTRATOR
Information - A formal accutation of aime made by a prosecuting attorney, as distinguished from an indictment presented by a grand jury

^(The actual sentence given by the judge does not matter - a “yes" answer is necessary if the judge could have given a sentence of more than one
year. Alto, a “yet" answer Is required even if a conviction has been discharged, set aside, or dismissed pursuant to an expungent or rehabiliu-
tion statute.)

ATP Form 7 (4310.12) (4-74)

1. Be twenty-one years of age or older

2. Not be under indictment for, or have been convicted of, a
crime punishable by imprisonment for a term exceeding one
year (not including business offenses or misdemeanors not
involving a firearm or explosive that are punishable by a
term of imprisonment for two years or less)
 16 First Book of Gunsmithing

3. Not be a fugitive from justice

4. Not be an unlawful user of or addicted to marijuana or any
depressant, stimulant, or narcotic drug
5. Not have been adjudicated as a mental defective or have been
committed to a mental institution
6. Not be an alien
7. Not have renounced United States citizenship
8. Not have willfully failed to disclose any material information
or made any false statement as to any material fact in con-
nection with an application for a federal dealer’s license
9. Have premises from which you conduct business or from
which you intend to conduct a dealer’s business within a
reasonable period of time
Besides permitting you to work on firearms for others, this li-
cense also allows you to buy and sell firearms and ammunition at
wholesale or retail to residents of your state. Depending on state
laws, sales to residents of adjoining states may be permitted. The

Digit Stands For

I Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms Region

— 2,3 Internal Revenue District

4,5,6 County of State where business is conducted

7,8 Type of license

~9,10 Expiration Date Code

II 15 Sequence Number of License

t N«mc
License (18 U S C Chapter 44)

In accorMnc* proeiaiona O' Till# 1 Own CpAtfOl Ac* o» 1*M

I tr-tr-u 3 Eapiration 0«l«
•n« ih« r« 9 uiAt«en( ittwad in«r*un«*r <27
lo an 9 *9« in ih« pwain*««
CFA
tn
Part 17t)
it«m S ol
eow a'#
iicAnaa
•ithin ir>« iimtiationa o( Cnapiar 44 Tin# i| umiAd Siaia* Cod* and
ih* tafuiatiooi uawad ih*r*und*r unhi th* *ip«r»iion Oat* •**cih«o
M ll•m i el Iht* Ilcant* S*« WAANINC on b*c4
5 Typp of LiC*ns*
n?
A
06 in'oon** 0* o4no> dMt*vCt<«*
Of C»*JI4< • '*>»«* om#r in«i^ <5*»ifuct..* o* 3^''-*t 0* 4mmwn4>on tQr
ammuA.pon to* oin*» in*n o*$i'uci<v« <j*«'<*s »n**' <Msi'uc’r>* (}w»<n

0? d**i Af ,/t otr>«« ih«r> d«si'uCt»«

Department of the Treasury
09 3mi*' an d^<*« Of anwrivAifion
3^'t4* 0* *mf»>vr*>t»OA *Ot t.»«4rfni otA** mar d*Strv<
'IT* 3*v<*»
*0* d««t*ucti*t

fO M*n^>t*ciur*»
Sv»'C44
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco
o' OMI'wCt •« 0*v<«s 0*
03 Co<'*cio* of Cw'loa *no itiica
Aitior 'oi atsiruct'i* sr><*«

06 Mar'vtactu'*' o* amn^vAdion to* <>*••>'*>$ o*n*> i*^ -moorsaf o< oasiructrv*

and Firearms
d*at'v<t'«* d^<c*s
1
0* anvnwniiion
*0* s*< c**
07 Manw'*Ciwr«« Qt *<rMrm« olh*' lf'*n 0»||ruct<««
<3*>'C*t

4 iSSutd by Rogion*! R*gui*iory AflminislraiO' ATF 41 AOOrtSSI

Dallas. Texas
6 b'gniiur* of P«g.onai R*gi,'#tory Ad*T>.nisi**iof

ATF Fotm8(S3<0 tlHS-dO) PART | EDITION OIS-T8 MAT BE USED

Fig. 1-5. Upon receipt of your Federal Firearms License, you can legally
do
gun repair work for others as well as deal in firearms. Have copies
made
of
the Copy
of License to send to all suppliers. The suppliers will then ship
hrearms directly to you at a trade discount.
 Introduction to Home Gunsrnithing 17

business may
be located in your home, a garage, an outbuilding, or
a regular place of business, but must be open to the public during
the hours you specify on your application.
To apply for a license, write to the Department of the Treasury:
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms, addressed to your re-
gional IRS, and request an application for license under U.S.C. Chap-
ter 44, Firearms.
you qualify, you will receive your license in approximately
If

two months after mailing the completed application and fee. The
original license should be displayed in your place of business. A copy
of this license is also provided for your trade suppliers. Have several
copies of this license made and send a signed copy to each supplier
when placing an order. When requesting catalogs, also send a signed
copy of this license, since most suppliers require proof that you are
entitled to a trade discount.
Your license covers operations only at the location shown on
the license. When it is time for renewal, the Bureau of Alcohol,
Tobacco, and Firearms send a renewal application about ( ATF) will
sixty days before the expiration date shown on your license. If you
do not receive a renewal application thirty days or so before the
expiration date and you want to remain in business, notify the ATF
regional office immediately.

FIREARMS ACQUISITION AND DISPOSITION RECORD

• fCO^T o>s»OS<r<ON
'•0« omO* aiClota
M 6 BI eoaivt oa <(.>M McyMtia oa
1
MwWM • o« 0*11 Oa'I .... • I , •

u •f
Mk J c J Jt ffl 0 f3 y//
,
yy 7i ^
Sm.ri Wf vMft It Jf
V
t.
'/y/jf P. /{ 9Yf/
f. ,4 4,1. <
ijexV,. f-.U r P Jo fCU 0 VJ f// je/j fcf.~ yy ?3 * ir
V AL IV 4 r*

y-v .90- 90 • //
Sf 31u
tf t* cc forn. yyy) *‘s'c

f?t /( f <.<»• •( (. ,r .. ./ ffU f yi 39rf

Stt f >iJnTi * JJ ffA. 0
^ i, y <• j/
t/ i*// V'Y/71 S ' j . S Ti. yy’3 ” S'
3
‘9*4. P*«
AJ, If » >/ r .4
V/A 7 Ji P (p yv73 *3i
— «
WcjIcf# f at itUy m y </ 39 ''An
J. 4 « •
^
7i 5 T,lf , - %
y, V -/.a »..j
S-.ilt JV- / ‘•AJ A A, • 23 pi «
M, tr i»7i/
,
Tjie
f % .1 u* *•/ f.jt C.li. J|
1, t70 u T«iy< I’yii/eiK II. M III i,tr^

Fig, 1-6. You must keep a Firearms Acquisition and Disposition Record of
allfirearms received for repair if they remain in your shop at the close of
business on the day you receive them. Also keep a record of all firearms
bought and sold through the business.
18 First Book of Gunsmithing

To renew your license, complete and send the application and

fee to your local IRS before the expiration date. You may operate
until your new license is received, even though the expiration date
has passed.
Gunsmiths, like firearms dealers, must maintain a separate
permanent record of all firearms received and disposed of, including
firearms received for repair. They must be logged and out, using
in
a firearms acquisition and disposition record. A comprehensive book
explaining what is required of a dealer and what records are nec-
essary and how to prepare them will accompany your license.
 Chapter^

Firearm Safety

THOSE PEOPLE WHO understand the operating characteristics

and potential dangers of firearms seldom have an accident. On the
other hand, someone who is careless or does not understand firearms
is a source of danger, to lifeand property. Remember that the basic
purpose of a firearm is to kill, and that any firearm will perform this

function extremely well. Therefore, everyone who handles a firearm

should have complete control of it.

Even those who have used firearms for years are not immune
to accidents. One careless moment can end in injury or death. Some
years ago a Michigan resident had a classic pre-World War II Win-
chester Model 70 converted to a .270 Weatherby Magnum. The con-
version was done expertly by Weatherby, Inc. The rifle further
boasted a Pachmayr safety conversion to afford the mounting of a
telescope sight and a Flaig trigger shoe. The rifle was fired several
times and found to be exceptionally accurate and a pleasure to shoot.

19
20 First Book of Gunsmithing

However, one day the magazine was loaded with three rounds and
firing commenced at a target 100 yards downrange. The first two
rounds went off smoothly, and by viewing through the spotting scope,
it was evident that both holes in the target were just about touching

each other. The third round was fed into the chamber, but when
the trigger was squeezed, only the snap of the firing pin was
—
heard there was no report from the fired cartridge. Thinking that
he had either not chambered the round or that the cartridge was
defective, the shooter opened the bolt and started to pull it towards
the rear. After pulling the bolt backward only about a half inch, a
violent explosion occurred, driving hot gas and brass particles back
toward the shooter. The shooter’s eye was saved, but dozens of brass
particles were removed from his face.
Upon examining the gun, it was discovered that the extractor
had been blown completely off, and the floor plate was bowed in a
U shape. The telescope was also damaged beyond repair. Since then,
the gun has been repaired and is now back in service.
This accident was caused by a phenomenon known as a hangfire,
a potentially dangerous situation when what appears to be a misfire
discharges after a short delay. Hangfires are usually caused when
the blow to the firing pin is too light or when the cartridge has
become wet or the primer is oil-laden. So anytime a cartridge does
not fire immediately when struck by the firing pin, keep the gun
pointed down range and wait at least ten seconds before opening the
bolt or breech block to examine the cartridge. The shooter in the
example opened the action too soon, and the cartridge discharged
after he had unlocked the bolt causing the cartridge head to disin-
tegrate. He actually knew better, but one careless moment nearly
cost him his eye.
More recently, a Virginia school superintendent ended a day of
deer hunting by pumping all the rounds (or so he thought) out of
his Winchester Model 94 rifle, chambered for .30-30. He propped the
against the side of his truck while he unlocked the truck door.
rifle

When the door was opened, the rifle fell over, and the hammer struck
an object on the ground causing the rifle to discharge. The 170-grain
bullet entered just below his rib cage, followed his rib cage upward,
—
and emerged at the base of his neck without hitting any vital
organs!
Several safety points can be learned from this story. Do not rely
 Firearm Safety 21

on "count” or "feel” when unloading a rifle. Visually inspect the

action and chamber to be sure that no cartridges are left in the gun.
With hammer guns, like the Winchester Model 94, always leave the
hammer an object should hit the hammer it won’t
at half cock so if

accidentally discharge the round in the chamber. Finally, it is better

to lay a gun flat on the ground rather than prop it in an unstable
position. More accidents have probably occurred because of this than
any other type of mistake.
Never point a firearm at anything or anyone you do not intend
to hit.This applies to loaded as well as unloaded guns. Make sure
your firearm is in good operating condition, use the proper ammu-
nition,and see that no obstructions, such as a cleaning brush or
heavy grease, are in the chamber or bore.
A device that is often overrated is the gun’s safety mechanism.
Designed prevent the gun from firing if the trigger is accidentally
to
depressed, it is there purely as a safety feature, but in no way does
it, nor is it intended to, take the place of standard safety
procedures.
Some guns have discharged without ever having the trigger pulled
and with the safety in the "safe”
mode. This occurs especially when
trigger mechanisms have been tampered with, for example to lighten
the trigger pull. In such cases, a medium-hard knock on the butt
end of the stock can, and will, discharge a weapon with a "hair”
trigger pull. Also remember that no gun part, no matter how finely
manufactured, is perfect. Any portion of the gun’s mechanism can
fail at any time. For this reason, a gun should never be pointed
toward people or property. A gun with a defective safety should be
—
repaired at once certainly before the gun is used.
Hunting situations and field usage of firearms probably present
the most hazardous conditions as far as human safety is concerned.
This is especially true when shooters take to the field in groups of
—
two or more the usual situation. Many otherwise knowledgeable
and experienced shooters fail miserably when it comes to the simple
act of properly carrying a gun. In general, a gun should be pointed
straight up or down at all times until
you are ready to fire. Any
other position could result in the muzzle pointing toward another
hunter if a sudden turn is made. Carrying a firearm improperly puts
every other person in the field in danger.
Be aware of the ultimate backdrop with every shot fired, in
every direction where a shot might be fired. The ultimate backdrop
22 First Book of Gunsmithing

is an area where the bullet is certain to strike, even if it misses or

passes through the original target. While many shooters believe
that firing a rifle up in the air eliminates all possible danger, nothing
could be further from the truth. A bullet has a path of flight similar
to a rock, arching upward and then downward as gravity takes over.
When a bullet is fired into the air, it must come down some place.
A few years ago a young lad was shooting walnuts off trees in the
backyard of his rural home. One of the bullets descended three quar-
ters of a mile away through a kitchen window, hitting a baby in the
face. Although the baby was not seriously injured, she will carry a
scar the rest of her life.
In another incident, the son of a local attorney was playing in
his backyard on the outskirts of Luray, Virginia when he experi-
enced what felt like a bee sting on his shoulder. His mother, noticing
the wound, took him to the hospital where a doctor found a .22 rim-
fire bullet lodged in the boy’s shoulder. The shooter was never dis-

covered, but it was assumed that someone shooting nearby did not
use a proper backstop for the bullets.
At this point, it might seem that the use of a firearm is a most
complicated process. This is absolutely true. Fortunately, with prac-
tice and experience, safety precautions and requirements become
almost instinctive. Just as the aiming process becomes second nature
after many months of practice, so does the process of securing all
loose ends when it comes to firearm safety.
While accuracy and proper shooting techniques often improve
with experience, some shooters become lax regarding safety mea-
sures after the same amount of experience. Shooters become profi-
cient at safety techniques when first learning, but after a fair degree
of overall efficiency has been obtained, too many of them feel they
know much about shooting
so that they can disregard many safety
precautions. This is how most accidents and deaths occur. Any gun
is like a well-trained guard dog. When handled properly, it will
perform the functions it is designed for. But get careless, and it will
bite you sooner or later.
Safety training, like all learning experiences, must be ongoing,
or stagnation occurs.The shooter then becomes an accident waiting
to happen. There is absolutely no need for this to occur. Do not w'ait
for an unfortunate accident to wake you up to the very real hazards
of firearms.
 Firearm Safety 23

Following are some of the basic safety rules that everyone

should observe.

Treat every gun as if it were loaded at all times. When handling

any gun, keep the finger away from the trigger, and point the muzzle
in a safe direction until the action is
opened and the chamber and
magazine have been visually inspected to make sure they are empty.
—
Get in this habit every time you pick up a gun even one in your
—
house or gun cabinet ihat you are certain is unloaded.

Inspect all guns before firing. Before firing, check the bore for
obstructions and remove them if any are found (this includes heavy
grease) Never try to fire out obstructions. A friend stumbled during
.

a quail hunt and rammed the muzzle of his Winchester Model 21

side-by-side double shotgun into a mud bank. Momentson his
later,
first shot at a covey of quail, about 6 inches of barrel, from the

muzzle back towards the breech, disappeared from his $3,000 shot-
gun!

Be careful of gun conversions.

Be sure of the safe working pres-
sures of an action before rechambering and/or rebarreling it to an-
other cartridge. For example, the .30-40 Krag action is designed for
pressures around 42,000 psi. A conversion to .30-40 Improved Krag
could be dangerous.

Beware of handmade parts. Just because a metal part is made

to the exact same dimensions of an existing gun part does not mean
it is safe. Most gun parts must be heat-treated to withstand
certain
pressures, so be careful when making replacement parts, or you will
damage the gun as well as yourself.

Attempt jobs only within your capabilities. Make sure you know
what you are doing before attempting any major gun work. If you
are not sure about a problem, seek professional advice.

Check trigger Hair triggers have no place on hunting

pulls.
arms. Guns with hair triggers can discharge with only moderate
pressure on the gun butt. Experienced shooters will tell you that
smoothness is more important for accuracy than lightness. In most
cases, a three-and-one-half-pound trigger pull should be minimum.
24 First Book of Gunsmithing

Beware of old shotgun barrels. Old shotgun barrels with short

chambers can cause excessive breech pressure and might be dan-
gerous to fire. Of course, only black powder loads (or no loads) should
be fired in shotguns with Damascus barrels.

Test head spacing. A rifle with excessive head space can be

dangerous. Make a habit of testing older rifles before firing
them — especially old military weapons.
Test-fire in a frame, not your hands. Doubtful guns should be
fired first in a sturdy frame in case they explode. Then check for
weak places.

Never use live ammunition when working on guns in the shop.

Use dummy rounds when testing the feeding mechanism of a gun
in the shop. They can be purchased, or make your own by resizing
fired cases and inserting a bullet to the proper overall length. Then
simply leave out the primer and the powder.

Do not remove too much metal from stress points. This includes
mounting sights. Many barrels
drilling screw holes in barrels for
have blown apart because the screw holes were drilled too deeply,
unnecessarily weakening the gun.

Use moderate heat. Heat is sometimes necessary to silver-solder

front sight ramps on barrels, or to anneal hard actions so that scope-
mounting holes can be drilled. Be extremely careful, especially when
applying heat on or near the locking system of a gun. If the metal
finish on a weapon starts to discolor, you have probably applied too
high a heat.
The best overall way to be safe is to think about safety at all
times while using a firearm. If you train yourself to think constantly
about safety from the beginning, it will eventually become second
nature. You will automatically take the precautions that handling
firearms requires. Without thinking, you will never point the muzzle
of a gun in the direction of another person, or in such a way as to
endanger pets, livestock, or property.
 Chapter

Cleaning and
Maintenance of
Firearms

THE CLEANING OF a firearm at regular intervals takes only a few

minutes and insures accuracy, good working order, and a long-last-
ing gun finish. On the other hand, a neglected firearm will be dif-
ficult to clean and will often be badly pitted —
sometimes beyond
repair. Therefore, if shooters keep their guns in first-class condition
at all times, they can be expect them to function properly and last
several lifetimes.
Weapons should be cleaned as soon as possible after they are
used. But don’t put the job off any longer than necessary because
the chances of rust forming increase with time. A pitted bore can
render a shotgun or rifle useless.
All that is required to clean a firearm
one of the basic cleaning
is
kits available on the market. These kits contain a cleaning rod, rod
powder solvent, and gun patches. Some include a wire brush.
tips, oil,

These kits are compact and easily transported to the field for clean-

25
26 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 3-1. Any

of the commercial cleaning kits will keep firearms in good
working order when used correctly and at frequent intevals.

ing weapons immediately after a hunt or while on the range.

To use the cleaning kit, soak a gun patch in powder solvent
(bore cleaner) and push the patch through the slotted tip attached
to the end of the cleaning rod. Insert the tip into the barrel from the
breech end, if possible, and run the patch the full length of the barrel
and return. Repeat this operation as many times as necessary, usu-
ally fifteen or twenty times. Then use a dry patch to dry the bore.
Change patches often until the last one comes out clean and dry.
Finish the bore cleaning by lightly oiling a clean patch and running
it up and back through the bore.

Extra-dirty bores require the use of a bronze bristle brush. Soak

a clean patch with powder solvent (bore cleaner). Push the patch
through the slotted tip of the cleaning rod and run it up and down
the bore until the bore is saturated with the cleaner. Remove the
slotted patch tipfrom the cleaning rod, insert the brush, and dip it
into the powder solvent. Then push the brush up and down the bore
about a dozen times to loosen the dirt and grime. Finish by drying
the bore with clean patches until the last patch comes out clean and
dry.
The outside gun should be wiped off with a silicone cloth
of the
to prevent rust and corrosion and also remove finger prints and
eliminate salt spray damage. This cloth may also be used on the
gunstock.
 Cleaning and Maintenance of Firearms 27

Fig. 3-2. The Brownell M-16 Cleaning Brush has dual heads with notched
toothbrush-type bristles on the big end and a single row of short bristles on
the small end for getting to hard-to-reach places.

The receivers pump, and lever-action firearms

of autoloading,
collect all sorts of debris and foreign matter and must be cleaned
periodically to insure proper functioning. An old toothbrush or a
Brownell M-16 cleaning brush can be used to get into actions and
other hard-to-reach places. A squirt or two of WD-40 (a standard
cleaner) sprayed into the action, followed by a good scrubbing with
the brush will do wonders to keep actions clean and in first-class
operating condition.
The frequency of the cleaning will vary with the use of the guns
and the weather to which they are subjected. A good rule of thumb
is to clean them after each firing. Also, when a gun is used or stored
near salt water or in humid areas, it should be cleaned, or at least
wiped off, every few days.
When cared for as described, guns will rarely be injured from
rust, fouling, or corrosion from routine handling by human hands.

GUN CLEANING ACCESSORIES

Of the various types of cleaning tips, the single-slotted tip is the
most popular. Its advantage is that it holds onto a patch under all
conditions. On the disadvantage side, sometimes the patch jams
when reversed inside the bore, and often the cleaning action is one-
sided, permitting the bare sides of the tip to
rub against the rifling
and perhaps cause damage after a time. The patch used with single-
slotted tips should be large enough to require about 4 pounds of
pressure to force through the bore of the rifle.
it

The roll jag tip permits rolled or wrapped patches and is the
type preferred by many shooters for cleaning rifles, such as lever-
28 First Book of Gunsmithing

SINGLE SLOTTED
TIP

FLEXIBLE JAG

PLAIN JAG

ROLL JAG

BRASS BRUSH

Fig. 3-3. Several types of tips used for cleaning rifle, handgun, and shotgun
bores.
 Cleaning and Maintenance of Firearms 29

actions and semiautomatics, that have to be wiped out from the

muzzle end. The rolled patch bears against the rifling equally and
does not have to be dragged into the bore. Accordingly, the rifling
is preserved instead of being worn away in a vital spot.

Plain jag tips give a uniform cleaning action and reverse per-
fectly inside the barrel.The patch sticks to the tip as long as it is
inside the barrel, but any movement beyond the muzzle or chamber
will cause the patch to come loose. A pointed jag tip has the advan-
tage of centering the patch before being inserted into the bore.
Many shooters prefer to use flexible jag tips, especially for clean-
ing shotgun barrels. A patch is slipped into the slot of the jag and
wrapped around it. The which imparts a measure of flexibility,
slot,

causes the patch to press evenly on the bore thereby squeezing the
oil into the pores of the steel. Thepermits the cleaning
slot also
patch to be compressed by the choke, insuring a thorough cleaning
of the bore throughout its entire length. This jag is also good for
holding steel wool and crocus cloth for polishing shotgun bores.
Wool and cotton mop tips are fine for oiling the bores of shotguns
but must be kept clean as damage may result by the fouling of the
wool, which will neutralize the preserving powers of the oil.
The leather shotgun bore polisher is made up of several buff
leather discs that absorb polishing material, such as Clover abrasive
compound, and aid in repolishing the bores of shotguns that have
been neglected. Since no metal touches the bore, they can be used
without fear of damage, even on more expensive weapons. Just be
careful not to polish too much around the muzzle end of the shotgun
because a change in choke pattern could result.
No attempt should be made to polish rifle barrels as the rifling
will surely be damaged, causing the barrel to be inaccurate and
worthless. Rifle barrels can sometimes be restored by lapping, but
this is a job for the experienced gunsmith and is not recommended
for the amateur (see chapter 14).
Most of the cleaning rods on the market today are made of
aluminum, even though this soft metal picks up bits of dirt, which
may have an abrasive effect on the bore. If possible, try to find a
brass or wooden cleaning rod to fit your rifle or shotgun.
The cleaning rods used on rifled barrels should have a swivel
joint so that the patch will rotate inside the bore as the patch is
being run back and forth, following the twist of the rifling. Without
30 First Book of Gunsmithing

this rotation, the patch willdrag at right angles across the lands
and will destroy the sharp edges of the rifling, impairing accuracy.
A shotgun cleaning rod does not require a swivel joint because
there is no rifling in a shotgun. Many experienced shooters prefer
to use a high-quality, all-wood cleaning rod on shotguns. In most
cases, these are made from prime, well-seasoned hickory wood. All
woods do not make suitable shotgun cleaning rods, nor is kiln-dry
wood satisfactory as it tends to be too brittle. For this reason, the
hickory used for better rods is air dried to prevent warpage and
insure the finish quality.

METAL FOULING
Metal fouling is not too common, except in the small-caliber
high-velocity rifles, but when it does occur, you should know how
to handle it. When the fouling of metal is caused by jacketed bullets,
the term metal fouling is used. However, when caused by lead bul-
lets, it is called leading.
A rifle barrel that is smooth and well cared for will seldom have
any problems with metal fouling. On the other hand, a neglected
barrel will always develop metal fouling to some extent.
Regardless of the cause, metal fouling can disrupt accuracy.
Examine the bore with a bore light. Any fouling will be visible as
long streaks, flaky deposits, or lumps of metal particles sticking to
the lands and grooves of the barrel.
To correct metal many shooters use a solution of am-
fouling,
monium persulfate, ammonium carbonate, stronger ammonia, and
distilled water.However, this solution will damage the gun’s finish
if allowed to come in contact with it (which is easy to do since the

solution is poured into the bore and allowed to soak for a period of
time). Consequently, recommended procedure for the am-
it is not a
ateur. Instead, purchase a quantity of J-B Non-Imbedding Bore
Cleaning Compound. Besides removing lead, metal, and powder foul-
ing from rifles, pistols, and shotguns, it is guaranteed to improve
the accuracy of your present firearm. It will not injure the finest
bore and will also help guard against rust. Another commercial
solution that is highly recommended for removing all traces of rust,
leading, and fouling is G66 Brand Gun Treatment.
 Cleaning and Maintenance of Firearms 31

Fig. 3-4. The Decker Shooting Vise simplifies the task of holding a firearm
for cleaning. It also has many other uses around the gun shop.

HOLDING GUNS FOR CLEANING

Firearms can be held for cleaning in a conventional bench vise
as long as padded vise jaws are used to protect the finish. Further-
more, guard against tightening the vise jaws too much as you can
bend receivers and damage other parts. When using a bench vise,
clamp the firearm into the vise in a horizontal position with the butt
resting on the bench top. You then will have access to the bore for
pushing a cleaning rod through it. Some shooters prefer to clamp
the rifle or shotgun in a vertical position with the butt resting on
the floor directly under the vise.
For very little expense you can build a suitable gun-cleaning
rack similar to the wooden cleaning racks made available at one
time to all military recruits. These were merely notched, wooden
frames that held rifles securely while they were being cleaned. A
commercial shooting vise, such as the Decker Shooting Vise, is rea-
sonably priced and greatly simplifies the operation of gun cleaning.
When used properly, all scratching and marring are eliminated be-
cause the Naugahyde covering over the sponge padding is all that
32 First Book of Gunsmithing

comes in contact with the gun. The base can be permanently

mounted to a workbench or secured with C-clamps. This vise can
also be used when sighting bores, mounting scopes, and zeroing
rifles.

COMPLETE GUN CLEANING

The procedures described previously are fine for day-to-day
cleaning of firearms, but once or twice a year (more frequently when
the gun used in adverse weather conditions) 'the gun should be
is

completely disassembled and given a thorough cleaning. Complete

cleanings will help to eliminate malfunctions that continually occur
due to a buildup of sediment in the action of semiautomatics and
other repeating rifles and shotguns.
Brownell’s d’SOLVE Gunsmith Cleaning is an excellent solu-
tion for complete firearm cleaning. It is fast, efficient, nonhazardous,
—
nonflammable, odor-free, and inexpensive just the thing for the
home gunsmith. Available in one-gallon containers, which makes
five gallons of bench cleaner, it can be mixed stronger for tough jobs

and diluted for less demanding cleaning operations.

It is simplest to use a clean, plastic blueing tank such as those
supplied by Birchwood Casey. If one of these is not available, buy
a 4-foot length of 4-inch PVC (plastic) pipe,an end cap and some
jointing compound from your local plumbing supplier. Cap one end
of the PVC (plastic) pipe and set it in a vertical position. Filled with
the cleaning solution, the gun parts can be dipped into it and allowed
to soak while you do other jobs around the shop. The grimiest parts
will come out clean, ready to dry, oil, and assemble.
When used as a brush-on cleaner, the cleaning solution rapidly
rids actions and chambers of crusted and grime. Some cleaner
dirt
on a toothbrush will clean old checkering, and a small amount on
a pad wiped across a gunstock will remove grime. If the gun is going
to be soaked, remove all wood first.
If you have compressed air available, use it to blow loose grime

from the gun immediately after it is lifted out of the tank. Set the
pressure at about 50 psi and let it do the work for you. Compressed
air is also excellent for drying wet gun parts.

REMOVING RUST
One of the most difficult problems confronting gun owners is
 Cleaning and Maintenance of Firearms 33

how remove rust from firearms without damaging the blueing.

to
Light rust can be removed quite easily with WD-40, but heavy rust
is another story.
The first attempt should be made with a rough bath towel coated
with WD-40. Rub the rusted area vigorously for as long as necessary
to remove all rust. If the blueing comes off with this method, it
probably was not good anyway and the firearm should be reblued.
In fact, this is probably the reason the gun rusted in the first place.
When a lot of rust is present, use No. 0000 steel wool dampened
with WD-40 or G66 Gun Cleaner. Rub the rusted area lightly until
all rust removed. There is also a product available from Brook-
is

stone, Peterborough, NH 03458 called Brookstone Ruster Remover.

You just add water for the concentration that best suits the job. The
eight-ounce container makes up to five quarts of rust remover, which
will last a long time.
For badly rusted parts, mix a highly concentrated solution of
Brookstone Ruster Remover and soak the parts in it for as long as
necessary to remove the rust. However, expect the blueing to be
removed also. You will then have to refinish the metal by one of the
methods described in chapter 12.

VISUAL INSPECTION DURING CLEANING

While giving your firearms a thorough cleaning, carefully ex-
amine all parts within the gun for wear. This can save much dis-
appointment later when you are using the gun in the field. Once all
parts are thoroughly clean, examine the bore with a bore light. Is
the barrel pitted? Should it be lapped? What is the general condition
of the rifling, shotgun bore,and other parts? Examine each smaller
part under a magnifying glass. Look for hairline cracks and exces-
sive wear. If any are found, now is the time to replace or repair the
—
part not when you have lined up a big trophy animal in your sights
and the gun fails. At the same time, check the condition of the gun’s
finish and decide if any parts should be touched up.

GUNSTOCK CONDITIONING
During normal use, your gunstock will be subjected to scratches
from briars, barbed wire fences, and other sharp objects, not to men-
tion dents and perspiration stains. Of course, you should avoid any
of these, but if a firearm is put to work in the field, you can expect
34 First Book of Gunsmithing

one or all of these problems to occur, and you should know how to
deal with them properly.
When a gunstock shows signs of wear, the first thought is to

refinish the stock. However, there are times where it is neither

desirable nor feasible to completely refinish a worn gunstock. For
instance, a gun that has collector’s value loses some of its value if
the old finish is tampered with.
For rejuvenating stocks. Patina Rub, available from Brookstone,
Peterborough, NH 03458, is ideal for use on abused gunstocks. It is
a combination of fine pumice, mineral oil, dryers, and alcohol that
imparts a special patina to wood finishes. In only minutes, a badly
scratched and stained gunstock can look almost like new by dipping
a felt pad and rubbing the stock with moderate pres-
in the solution
sure in straight strokes with the grain. Be careful, and check your
work frequently to avoid cutting through the existing stock finish.
Minor dents in gunstocks can be raised without necessitating
the complete refinishing of the gunstock. One method is to wet an
old washcloth, place it over the dent, and apply a hot soldering iron
or regular household iron momentarily on the wet rag at the exact
location of the dent. Do not leave the soldering iron tip on long
enough to burn or cause the stock finish to bubble. Leave it there
just long enough to cause the steam generated from the heat to swell
the wood fibers and raise them to the surface. Repeat the operation
as often as necessary until the dent is raised.
Larger dents and cracks in gunstocks must be dealt with another
way. They may be filled with shellac sticks available from Brownells,
Incorporated or Frank Mittermeier. These shellac sticks come in an
assortment of colors to match the finish on your particular stock.
To use shellac sticks, heat a small spatula, no wider than %
inch and no longer than 4 inches, in the flame of a torch until it is
hot enough that, when pressed against the end of the shellac stick,
it melts the shellac. When a small quantity of melted shellac ac-
cumulates on the end of the spatula, quickly wipe it across the area
of the stock to be repaired. It is easiest if the spatula blade is turned
so the melted shellac is on the bottom of the blade. Hold the blade
at a 45-degree angle as it is drawn over the scratch. If the first pass
does not completely fill the crack, repeat until it does. If you are
extremely careful — and it does take skill —you can fill a dent or
crack without damaging the existing finish. After the shellac has
 V,. » .' -^t

V.-' ,
,--<»• r>
;:>r:?-'v

r^

ATER SOLUB*-*
luble DY6
\
i P OUT ,C

j O^ CHI*-

i;HKi
^ OF CHft-t>^ (

f iHBoinHis.,''
T OF P!
CMILDFE”
>
,

ttJHW„ '''
\0*»

''f^

Fig. 3-5. Brownell’s Water Soluble Dyes produce clear colors without cov-
ering the natural beauty of the wood.

thoroughly hardened, sand the area so the fill is flush with the stock.
The repoured area can then be finished the same as the undamaged
areas of the gunstock.
On light-colored stock woods, best results are obtained by first
coloring the gouge or scratch to match the surrounding wood. Brow-
nell also supplies water stains that produce clear, true, lightproof
colors without covering the natural beauty of the wood.
Once the defective area has been stained to match the surround-
ing wood, use a transparent shellac stick to raise the dent or scratch
to the same level as the surrounding areas. On darker wood, use the
various colors of shellac sticks available.
36 First Book of Gunsmithing

A stock-maker’s fill stick is a little easier to use than the shellac

stick, although it does not give as permanent a finish. To use, merely
rub it in and wipe it off. This method is especially useful for repairing
finished stocks of the new synthetic-finish types that cannot be re-
paired by the hot shellac method previously described. Colors avail-
able include light, medium, or dark brown.

BLUEING SMALL GUN PARTS

During the cleaning operation, you will probably run across
screw heads and other small parts that require some light touching
up. Of course, you can use any of the commercial cold bluers for the
touch-up job (see chapter 12), but if you do not care to go to the
trouble of setting up for this operation, blue the small parts with
heat. For this method, polish the small part as you would for con-
ventional blueing methods, then, holding it with a pair of pliers or
piece of wire, heat the part in the flame of a propane torch. When
the part just begins to glow slightly when in a shadow, quickly
quench the part in a container of gun oil, raw linseed oil, or similar
oil. The result will be a rich, deep blue that will probably match the
rest of the firearm parts. If the first try does not produce a deep
enough color, repeat the operation. Take care not to get the part too
hot.
 Chapter 4

A Place to Work

WHEN YOU COME right down to it, almost anyplace available can
be used to work on guns. During my days in the Marine Corps, I did
a considerable amount of gun work on my footlocker at the end of
my bunk in aone-room barracks of thirty or forty men. I blued guns
by the hot-water method in my mom’s kitchen, using the kitchen
range as a source of heat for the blueing tanks and the kitchen table
as a work area.
Apartment dwellers probably have the most difficult time trying
to find a suitable work area to tinker with their guns. Most apart-
ment buildings have basements and utility rooms. Chances are, you
could use a corner of this basement if you asked the landlord. Here
you can set up a small workbench, install a bench vise, and maybe
even a fluorescent lighting fixture over the bench. Since the area
will probably be open to the other tenants in the building, keep your
tools in a portable tool chest that can be carried back to your apart-
ment each time you finish working.

37
'f
A Place to Work 39

Another possibility for the apartment dweller is renting a small,

nearby garage that is not being used. You can then set up shop to
suit your own taste, in a location where the noise of power tools will
not disturb anyone.
A friend who an apartment recently purchased a used
lives in
van as a second car and set up an attractive little gunshop in the
back of it. He installed a few 12-volt lights to provide illumination,
attached a wooden workbench solidly to the frame and body of the
van, included plenty of drawer space, and is able to spend lots of
hours working on his firearms. In fact, he is able to do most of the
jobs described in this book right in this van-shop.
If an out-of-the-house workshop is not possible, consider build-

ing a small workbench that can be closed up when not in use to look
like a respectable piece of furniture. There are plans for these avail-
able to suit practically anyone’s need. In fact, highly productive gun-
tinkering shops have been hung on the back of closet door, using a
workbench that folds down from a wall panel. Your work will be
limited with such a setup, but with a V4-inch drill motor and several
attachments (plus other gunsmithing tools), you’ll be able to do such
jobs as trigger repairs, sight installations, and touch-up blueing.
keep your tools in a toolbox and purchase a
If all else fails,

vacuum-type vise that can be attached to a flat surface by vacuum

alone. Then you can set up shop temporarily anywhere. It is not the
ideal situation, but it is a beginning.

BASEMENT SHOPS
The favorite place for a home gunshop is in the basement, pro-
vided room can be found after space is allotted for the recreation
room, heating plant, and utility room. Although a basement work
area does have a few drawbacks, they usually can be overcome. For
example, basement areas (as finished by the builder) are poorly
illuminated. Improving the lighting should be one of your priorities
ifyou plan to set up your shop in a basement. Fluorescent fixtures,
depending upon the type of ceiling they will be mounted on, are the
most practical.

Fig. 4-1. Apartment work center designed and built by John Sill of Times
Mirror Magazines, Inc. The cabinet looks like a respectable piece of furniture
when closed, but holds a large assortment of tools as well as a pull-out work-
bench.
40 First Book of Gunsmithing

Of course, dampness is the chief problem in most basements;

some are downright wet. Dampness can cause metal objects to rust
and leather slings to mildew. To overcome this problem, first see
that all drains are free and working properly. Next, apply epoxy
waterproofing to the basement walls from the inside and insulate
the walls with foam insulating boards. A good dehumidifier, sized
for your area, is added insurance for a dry basement.
Another problem, especially in older homes, is the low ceiling
height in basements. This not only creates a cramped-in feeling, but
also causes trouble with guns and tools accidentally hitting the
ceiling as you work on them. The cost of correcting this problem is
too high to make it practical, so either look for another place to work
or learn to cope with the low ceiling.
When remodeling a basement for a workshop area, try to rework
the heating ducts, plumbing pipes, and electrical wires so that they
run between joists instead of below them. Due to their size, it may
not be practical to rearrange air-conditioning ducts in this manner.
An run the ducts around the perimeter of
alternate possibility is to
the basement and box them in to give more headroom where you
will be working.

ATTIC SHOPS
Only as a last resort should an attic be used as a workshop.
They are often extremely hot in summer, cold in winter, and short
on headroom. The first two problems can be corrected to some extent,
but increasing headroom could be expensive. Add the difficulty of
transporting materials to and from the attic, the matter of dirt find-
ing its way into the living area, and the annoyance of noise and
vibration from power tools and the disadvantages are quickly re-
alized.
Good insulation, and lots of it, will do wonders
keeping the in
attic at a more controlled, comfortable temperature, provided ade-
quate ventilation such as roof ventilators, either power or wind-
turning, are installed. Cross ventilation can be provided by install-
ing windows at each end of the attic. These will also provide natural
light, which is usually absent from attic areas. A well-insulated
attic will also keep down the noise from power tools, as will setting
tools on rubber mats or other forms of isolators.
Of course, you will want to add some kind of heat for the winter
A Place to Work 41

months and a window or through-wall air conditioner to keep the

area comfortable in hot weather.
Although my gunshop is located in an outbuilding behind my
house, I remodeled attic space for use as an office. By using good
construction techniques in the renovation of the attic, I made this
area the most comfortable area in the house.
To begin, I removed all the junk from the area and cleaned
everything — from top to bottom. Many people eliminate this step,
thinking that wall, ceiling, and floor coverings will hide and confine
all the dirt and dust. Not so! Dust and dirt within the void spaces
of the walls, ceilings,and floors find ways to seep through and make
it extremely difficult to keep the finished area clean. So be sure to

thoroughly clean before starting any remodeling job.

Electrical wiring came next. I sketched a rough floor plan of the
area and laid out where furnishings would be located. Then I in-
stalled duplex receptacles, lighting, and wall switches in convenient
locations. An outlet was also provided for a window air conditioner.
Most localities require that all electrical work be done in accordance
with the National Electrical Code and local ordnances; some require
that all electrical work be done by licensed electricians. Check the
requirements of your locale before doing the work. It may be nec-
essary to have the work inspected by a building inspector before
covering up the wiring. If you have any doubts about your ability
in this phase of the work, let an electrical contractor do the work.
Since flooring was already installed in the attic area and the
rooms below were heated, it was not necessary to insulate the floor.
Insulation could have been blown into the spaces between the floor
joists, but it did not seem worth the expense. However, if the area

were to be a shop with power tools, I definitely would have insulated

the floor. Three and one-half inches of insulation were placed in all
side walls, and six inches in the ceiling. After this, I installed wood
paneling on the walls and acoustical tile on the ceiling. A carpenter
friend helped with the trim, and a local floor and door shop installed
indoor-outdoor carpet. The area was just about ready to move into.
After calculating the heat loss of the area, I installed a 4,000-
watt electric wall heater. At the time this was the least expensive
heating system available. However, aware of the spiraling fuel costs,
I also made provisions for a wood-burning stove, using the existing

chimney and flue that ran through one corner of the attic. A cut was
 42 First Book of Gunsmithing

made chimney, a thimble installed, and a wood-burning stove

in this
connected. When no dry firewood is available, or building a fire is
too much trouble, the electric heater provides all the heat needed.

GARAGE
A garage
one of the best places to locate a shop, especially if
is

it is seldom used to store the family car. Although often drafty and

hard to heat in winter, a shop located in the garage has many ad-
vantages over one located elsewhere in the home. First of all, a
garage shop allows you to work at odd hours of the day and night
without disturbing anyone. Furthermore, you do not have to worry
about odor from bore cleaner, blueing, and other chemicals polluting
your home. And no one will ever see your messes because the garage
is a place not normally seen by visitors.
If your car
kept in the garage, you have to make some ad-
is

justments. If the garage is large enough, put a bench along the back
or side wall, and store power tools along the walls until
you are
ready to use them; then to use them move them out, once you have
moved the car to make room. When space does not permit a regular
bench, consider one that swings down from the wall. The bench is
hinged on its back side and swings either up or down when not in
use.
The ideal setup is to use half of a two-car
garage as a shop and
the other half for parking a car. Build a carport if you need shelter
for a second car— it is much cheaper than building an enclosed shop.

OUTBUILDINGS
My own shop is located in an outbuilding that previously had
been used as a smokehouse. After the old building was reinforced,
the foundation leveled, wiring installed (including fluorescent light-
ing), insulation and wall paneling put in place, floor tile laid, and
a U-shaped workbench built, the building was ready to move into.
The interior is only 9 feet by 13 feet and it did not take long for
the area to up with tools. But even with a drill press, metal-
fill

turning lathe, bench grinder, and hand-loading equipment, there is

plenty of bench area.
However, since I needed another shop, I constructed a 25-by-35
foot, two-story building behind my house. The upper area is used to
A Place to Work 43

Fig. 4-2. Author’s U-shaped workbench built in an outbuilding in back of

his home.

store gun parts and other items, while the lower level houses the
general shop, with a separate blueing room, rest room, and a small
retail-receptionist area.

PORCHES AND CARPORTS

In mild climates, a porch or carport may be all that is needed
to perform gun work. A carport, for example, with a large floor-to-
ceiling storage area in one end can be used to store tools out of the
weather when not in use. Then when the storage area is opened, it

could reveal a workbench and power tools. While the workbench is

Fig. 4-3. A flat surface, a bench vise, and Brownell’s Assembly/Disassembly
Tool Kit will enable one to perform a lot of gun work from cleaning to troub-
leshooting and repairing malfunctions.

stationary, put power tools on rollers so they can be rolled out for
use.
Such an area has several disadvantages, but if no other place
is available, it is one possibility. Heavy, blowing rains
and cold
temperatures prevent use of the shop, and you have to wait for fair
weather to work on guns. To overcome these inconveniences, you
can enclose a carport with comparatively little expense.
A Place to Work 45

Since the walls that are added to enclose a carport will be ex-
posed to the weather, be sure to insulate well. Use conventional wall
framing to enclose theopen wall of the carport, or perhaps use
jalousie windows. A jalousie window consists of a series of movable,
—
overlapping glass louvers, which pivot in unison usually by a
crank-and-gear system. Such windows are best used in southern
climates, where maximum ventilation and flush exterior and inte-
rior appearance is desired. These windows can be arranged so that
an entire wall, from about eighteen inches above the floor to a foot
or so below the ceiling, is constructed of windows.
When used in southern climates, the enclosure will act like a
greenhouse and provide heat through the glass from the sun’s rays
on chilly days. If it gets too hot, open the windows for ventilation.
 V

« i1
5 ’’ I < I

4 f

h •

I
 Chapter

Tools that Work

NOTHING IS MORE frustrating than to begin an interesting project

only to find halfway through that you lack the proper tools or ma-
terials to complete it —or the knowledge to make the most of the
tools you do have. In cases like this, the gun usually ends up in a
professional’s hands, and the beginner is so discouraged that a long
time passes before another attempt is made, if ever! You can avoid
these frustrations (or at least cut them
minimum) by thoroughly
to a
planning your projects before beginning and making certain that all
the necessary tools and materials are at hand. By doing so, you’ll
not only finish the project, but you’ll derive more enjoyment and
gain enough self-confidence to encourage you to attempt more ad-
vanced projects sooner.

BASIC GUNSMITHING TOOLS

The selection of gunsmithing tools should not be made lightly.
Because of the critical nature of gun repair and the value of the

47
48 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-1. If you are starting from scratch, you can save a lot of time and
confusion by buying a tool kit like the ones sold by Brownell.

guns being worked on, only the best tools, ones specifically designed
for gun work, will do.
To save time and confusion, buy one of Brownell’s gunsmith’s
tool kits. They currently have two kits available: Basic Gunsmithing
Kit and Assembly/Disassembly Tool Kit. With the twenty-four tools
in the Basic Gunsmithing Kit, the beginner can tackle basic service
cleaning, and repair jobs on practically all firearms with confidence.
As you progress, you can add more tools for more complicated ad-
vanced procedures.
The Assembly/Disassembly Tool Kit is basically the same as
the Basic Gunsmithing Kit except that it contains four highly spe-
cialized tools, which enable the user to disassemble and assemble
practically any gun.
The basic tools needed for gunsmithing are described in the
following section. You can purchase them either separately or in the
kits previously described.

Sere wdri vers

Very few gun repairs, alterations, or cleaning operations can
Tools that Work 49

be performed without removing tight-fitting screws from the fire-

arm. Therefore, the selection of a proper set of gunsmithing screw-

drivers should be a primary consideration.
Most of the screwdrivers that are available at hardware stores
—
are the double-wedge type the type swaged on a punch press. When
such a screwdriver is used in a deep screw slot, such as the ones
most often found on firearms, the blade transmits its torque to the
top of the screw slot. Since there is only a small area of contact
between the blade and the screw slot, the screw will be scored if
very much pressure is applied; or perhaps one section of the screw
head will break off. This wedge shape also tends to back the driver
out of the screw slot (fig. 5-2).

Fig. The double-wedge-type

5-2.
screwdriver is not suited for gun
repair work, since the blade will
transmit its torque only to the top
of the screw slot.

Fig. 5-3. Screwdriver blades for

gun w'ork should be ground as
shown here.

Screwdrivers used for gun work should be ground as shown in

figure 5-3 and fit the screw slot exactly. This way the torque is
applied at the bottom of the slot where the screw is the strongest.
The gunsmithing screwdrivers supplied by Brownell’s, Chap-
man Manufacturing Co., and Bonanza Sports are the most popular
with professional gunsmiths.
Even though gunsmithing screwdriver sets come with many
different sizes of bits, you might still have to grind a screwdriver
tip to fit a particular screw slot. In fact, many hobbyists and most
professionals make their own screwdrivers out of drill rods and then
50 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-4. A circular grinding stone is often used to grind screwdriver blades
for gun work.

install either a wooden or plastic handle on them for gripping. A

circular grinding stone attached to a drill motor will do the trick,
but you will have to eyeball the radius and width of the bit. It is
easier to purchase a B-Square Blade Makers which will enable you
to accurately grind screwdriver blades or make your own. This device
can be clamped to any bench grinder or drill press to hold screwdriver
blades, and the design assures parallel blade faces and blade tips.
To grind screwdriver tips from tool steel drill rod (fig. 5-6), use
a steel consisting of 50 percent carbon, 40 percent manganese, 1
percent silicon, and 0.5 percent molybdenum, the finest steel avail-
able for screwdriver blades. Once the have been ground to size,
tips
wrap them in stainless steel foil to prevent scale from forming during
the hardening. Using a propane torch, heat the rod to bright cherry,
and just before it changes to red-yellow, quench the part in oil. To
draw, preheat the kitchen oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit, put the
Tools that Work 51

Table 1

GUN SCREW DIMENSIONS

Blade Shank Blade Blade Curve
Width Length Thickness Length Radius*
Firearm ( inches) ( inches) (inches) (inches) (inches)

Remington and Vs 41/4 .023 .048 1/4

Winchester, plug
screws
Lyman, Leupold, Vl6 41/4 .032 .046 1/4

Redfield scope
screws
B & Weaver,
L, Vl6 41/4 .037 .046 1/4

Buehler scope
screws
Williams 10-32 screws V4 41/4 .041 .0625 1/4

Most Guard Screws Vie 41/4 .040 .0625 1/4

Shotgun Guard Screws 1/4 41/4 .020 .050 1/4

Winchester, Browning Vl6 41/4 .020 .046 1/4

**0/U Ejector
Browning 0/U trigger % 41/4 .021 .062 1/4

guard
Browning Auto 1/4 41/4 .024 .062 1/4

Receiver Screws
Guard Screws and Vl6 41/4 .034 .062 1/4

General Purpose
Redfield Stream Lined 11/64 41/4 .031 .046 1/4

Scope Mount Rings

*From the flat portion of the blade to the outside of the shank.
**Over/Under,

part in the oven for an hour, and then allow it to air cool. This will
make one of the toughest screwdriver blades available. Just be care-
ful with the torch while heating the parts. Do not burn yourself or
use an open flame around any combustibles.

Instrument Screwdriver
There will be certain screws (mostly on gun sights) that will
require the use of a jeweler’s, or instrument, screwdriver. One or
52 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-5. How gunsmithing screwdrivers are measured: A, blade width; B,

shank length; C, blade thickness; D, blade length; E, radius of the curve from
the flat portion of the blade to the outside of the shank.

Fig. 5-6. To grind screwdriver tips from tool steel drill rods: 1 Drill rod used
as blank for gunsmith screwdrivers; 2 Use circular grinding wheel to grind
one side drill rod; 3 Reverse rod, grind the other side.

two different sizes will do at first, but eventually it may be necessary

to obtain a set of about five different blade sizes.

Pin Punches
Most firearms contain drift pins that require different size
punches to remove. Consequently, you will need a complete set of
drift punches, along with a starter punch or two. It is very important
to use a starter punch rather than to try to break loose a stuck pin
with a long drift punch or pin punch, which usually ends up with
the punch getting bent or broken. Avoid this by getting the pin
started with a starter punch and then ''drifting” it out with a pin
or drift punch. Sure, punches will still get bent and broken from
time to time, and have to be replaced, but such breakage will occur
less frequently if a starter punch is used first. Several sizes are
available.
Tools that Work 53

Fig. 5-7. Two sizes of instrument screwdrivers suitable for use on gun-sight
screws.

Fig. 5-8.Several sizes of pin punches that will handle the majority of firearm
disassembly operations.
Fig. 5-9. The Versa-Vise is an excellent choice for the home gunsmith.

Vise
A bench vise is almost indispensable as an aid while working
on firearms. If you have a workbench where the vise can be mounted
permanently, then by all means buy a heavy-duty, swivel-base ma-
chinist’s vise that can be used for holding guns and checkering cra-
dles. The Versa-Vise (fig. 5-9) is an excellent choice for the home
gunsmith as it gives both vertical and horizontal holding positions;
rotates a full circle in either position; and has a built-in anvil and
removable, serrated pipe jaws for round objects up to IV2 inches in
diameter. The vise automatically locks in the desired position when
the jaws are clamped tight.
To prevent marring of blued metal surfaces and wood finishes,
equip the bench vise with protective jaws. Brass and lead jaws are
available from Brownell’s and Frank Mittermeier, Inc., or make a
set of removable jaws out of leather and wood. While making these,
make a set of felted wood jaws to hold stocks and other finished
wooden parts.
One of the most difficult gun parts to control without it breaking
or slipping out of your holding device is the mainspring for side-
plate shotguns or muzzle-loaders. The little mainspring vise shown
Tools that Work 55

Fig. 5-10. A set of removable vise jaws made from leather and wood will
serve most of your needs.

in figure 5-11 saves a lot of problems. Merely loosen the screw,

insert the vise onto the mainspring, and tighten. As pressure is
applied by the screw, the spring will depress and can be easily slipped
out of the lock.

Fig. 5-11. This mainspring vise will save a lot of headaches when removing
or installing mainsprings in side-lock shotguns or muzzle-loaders.
56 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-12. A pin vise is ideal for holding small rods and pin stock for filing,
grinding, or polishing.

A handy tool. It has a small, close-fitting

pin vise can also be a
chuck that is held in the hand while in use. It takes any size rod
from around .030 to .062 and is ideal for holding small rods and pin
stock for filing, grinding, and polishing.

Brass-Nylon Hammer
A brass hammer is standard equipment on
gunsmithing all
benches. Because of the soft nature of the metal (as compared to
steel), it is ideal for driving or tapping parts where marring or

nicking must be avoided. A nylon surface on the opposite face makes

the hammer more versatile, offering the user a second choice in
cases where even more care must be taken.

Fig. 5-13. Brass-nylon hammer should be standard equipment on every

gunsmith’s bench.

Nylon-Brass Drift Punch Set

The dual tips of the punch set in figure 5-14 provide for a variety
ofjobs. The brass tip, for instance, is excellent for driving out dovetail
sights, but should not be used on blued surfaces since it may leave
Tools that Work 57

'S5>;v
• -VV-.

Fig. 5-14, The dual tips of this punch set are excellent for driving out dove-
tail sights and a host of other jobs.

brass marks on the metal. With the nylon tip though, a sight or a
pin can be driven out without marring or transferring brass color-
ation to the finish.

Parallel Pliers
The pliers shown 5-15 are not intended for twisting-
in figure
turning jobs, but for precision holding of gun parts. Because of the

Fig. 5-15. Parallel pliers are intended for precision holding of gun parts.
58 First Book of Gunsmithing

parallel jaws, there is no tendency for objects, such as springs or

rounded from between the jaws when pressure
objects, to slip out
is applied. Also, because of the compound nature of the leverage,

tremendous pressure can be exerted. This is particularly valuable

when inserting drift pins, holding springs, or other small parts.
Furthermore, wrapping a heavy rubber band around the grips makes
parallel pliers a very practical and useful small vise, not only for
shop use but for emergency use in the field.
After a time you may find a need for other pliers — needle nose,
combination, pump, vise-grip — which can be obtained from a hard-
ware store.

Fig. 5-16. Eight-inch, narrow hand file is included in the Brownell Kit.

Fig. 5—17. A sight-base a triangular-shaped file with one cutting side;

file is
the remaining two sides do not cut and are known as "safe.”

Files
Files are available in many shapes and sizes, with teeth of
varying coarseness. Probably the handiest size for beginners is an
8-inch narrow hand file. This file is similar to a conventional pillar
file, but has the advantage of one cutting edge and one safe edge.

The next you may need is a sight base file, which has two
file'

sides that do not cut (fig. 5-17). Not only is this file ideal for cutting
dovetail slots for sight installations, but it serves many other pur-
poses, for example when the user must file right up to a side wall
or slightly undercut without damaging the sides of the cut.
Tools that Work 59

After purchasing these two files, you may want to start adding
others to your inventory of tools. An 8-inch milland a 10-inch
file

mill file (both in fine cut) will see plenty of work around a gun shop,
and a 12-inch flat bastard cut can take off a lot of metal in a hurry.
Next in line will be a set of gunsmith needle files in both medium
and fine cuts.
Eventually, you will also want several 6-inch round files for
adjusting screw and pin holes, scope mount holes, fine cuts on tightly
curved parts, and all types of parallel round cuts. Four diameters
%2 inch. Vs inch, V32 inch, Vie inch will handle most gun-—
smithing needs. Cuts are normally 00 (very coarse), 0, No. 2, and
No. 4 (very fine).

you do much gunsmithing work, you will frequently have to

If

deepen old screw slots, make slots in new screws, and touch up
botched screw slots. Screw head files are just the thing for these
jobs. Such files cut only on the edge; the wide flat sides are smooth
and will not damage the screw head while filing.
Files are very simple tools, yet a person who knows how to use
them can do remarkable things with them. For example, gunsmiths
in Afghanistan frequently make their own gun parts using only
files. Sure, hand filing is slower and more difficult than machine

filing, but with patience, quite a lot can be accomplished.

Files are meant to cut in one direction only. And unless the
right amount of pressure is applied, the piece will be damaged. In
addition, the teeth of the file get clogged up with metal filings. If
this condition is allowed to go unchecked, the file will no longer cut
effectively and will also score the work. So when buying your first

Fig. 5-18. A file card or wire brush is essential for cleaning file teeth to
ensure proper cutting.
 60 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-19. An assortment of gunsmith’s honing stones is essential for smooth-

ing many metal-to-metal contacts.

file, buy a file card — a wire brush made especially for cleaning the
teeth of files. Common
chalk rubbed across the teeth will minimize
clogging (often called pinning), but still use the file card to ensure
proper cutting.
Each should be provided with either a plastic or wooden
file

handle to protect the user’s hands. It will give you a firmer grip on
the file tang, but even more important, if the file binds or catches
on the work, the sharp tang will not cut a hand or wrist.

Honing Stones
An assortment of gunsmith’s honing stones (India and Arkan-
sas) is almost indispensable for gun work. Sharpening trigger sears
Tools that Work 61

Fig. 5-20. A sharp bench knife will come in handy.

for smoother trigger operation, and smoothing the metal-to-metal

contact of all movable action parts are just a few of the many uses
for honing stones.

Hacksaw
The hacksaw is a metal cutting tool that, like a file, cuts in one
direction only. When using it, do not let the teeth drag over the cut
on the backward movement. Rather, raise the saw blade slightly on
the rearward movement, applying pressure only on the forward
stroke. This way, you will cut faster and smoother, and the blades
will last much longer.
Hacksaws are relatively inexpensive so purchase the best one
you can find. Look for a sturdy frame, and leave the dime-store
varieties alone. The same is true for hacksaw blades. Buy the best
high-speed blades you can find in the following teeth spacings: eigh-
teen teeth to the inch for roughing cuts and for use on heavy stock;
twenty-four teeth to the inch for smoother, more accurate cuts; and
thirty-two teeth to the inch for cutting thin tubing.

Bench Knife
A strong, sharp blade on your bench knife will come in handy
for gun inletting, cutting leather slings to size, incising, and reliev-
ing. The knife shown in figure 5-20 comes in the Brownell tool kits.
Besides this one, use a set of X-acto knives, keep one razor sharp
and the others dull for rougher work.
 62 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5-21. Screw Check’R is a gauge used to indicate screw and drill sizes.

Screw Check*R
Since few beginners have a screw gauge and a micrometer, this
simple tool is included in the Brownell kits. This gauge will also
give drill sizes.

Drills
A hand drill is relatively
inexpensive and can suffice for most
of the hobbyist’s drilling. However, you will eventually need
a drill
press. With this, you can drill holes for mounting telescopic
sights,
drum-sand irregular wood shapes, grind screwdriver tips, and polish
Fig. 5-22. Brownell’s Sight and Scope Mounting Drill and Tap Kit No. 2 will
handle the majority of sight-mounting needs.

trigger guards and other small parts when a polishing bob is chucked
into the drill.
another consideration, along with taps to thread
Drill bits are
screw holes. These can be purchased as needed, but it might be
better you buy one of Brownell’s Sight and Scope Mounting Drill
if

and Tap Kits No. 2. If you anticipate doing much scope mounting
on rifles that have not been predrilled at the factory, this kit will
pay for itself many times over.

Disassembly Tools
The Brownell Assembly/Disassembly Tool Kit contains three
specialty tools for disassembling certain guns: Colt Pistol Wrench,
Winchester Model 12/Ithaca 37 Wrench, and Extractor Spring
Pliers.

Fig. 5-23. Disassembly tools will prove invaluable for disassembling fire-
arms.
 64 First Book of Gunsmithing

POWER TOOLS
Buying power tools can quickly get expensive, but to save time
and elbow grease, it is advisable to purchase a few. Make your first
power tool a V4-inch or %-inch portable, electric drill. You will be
able to use and its many accessories as a drill press; as a disc
it

Sander for shaping stocks and recoil pads; as a buffer for polishing
gun metal prior to blueing; as a carding wheel to remove rust during
the hot water method of gun blueing; and as a bench grinder.

SPECIALTY TOOLS
About the time you think that you are equipped to tackle any
project, you will have a gun that requires additional tools either to
disassemble it or repair it. Do not let this bother you. More than
likely, an additional tool can be purchased locally, and you will have
it when the situation arises again. One of the exceptions is the
purchase of a tool to remove the stock
from some two-piece
bolt
stocks. In most cases, a standard screwdriver with a half-inch blade
and fifteen-inch shank will work. Recently, however, manufacturers
have strayed from the conventional screw-slot bolt. Some have hex-
head bolts, some screw slot, and others are a combination of both.
All are difficult to remove and often require special tool setups to
handle the force required to remove them correctly and to retighten
solidly. Also, many
stock bolt holes are only slightly oversized, re-
quiring special thin-walled sockets.

Fig. 5-24. Brownell’s Stock Take-Down Tool Kit is designed to handle any
and all stock take-down problems.
Tools that Work 65

Take-Down Tool Kit is designed to handle all

Brownell’s Stock
stock take-down problems. The socket heads are correct to prevent
slipping and burring. The drag link bit and socket screwdriver are
round end which automatically centers the blade in
at the socket
the stock bolt hole and makes fitting it into the slot much easier
than when using a conventional screwdriver. This set is expensive,
but when you need it, nothing else will do. There are also other uses
for itgun work, so it will give multiple service for the investment.
in
Another hair-pulling problem is trying to loosen or tighten a
screw in close quarters, such as the trigger spring screw in some
break-open, single-barrel shotguns. The receiver tangs prevent a
direct approach using conventional screwdrivers, and you usually
wind up bruising knuckles and botching screw heads. A midget offset
ratchet, such as the one in figure 5-25, will help tremendously. The
short 18-degree working arc is unbeatable for removing screws in
close quarters. The ratchet direction reverses instantly by turning
the tool over. can be used with several types of screwdriver
It bits,

but it is recommended for use with the Chapman screwdriver set.

Fig. 5-25. A midget offset ratchet is unbeatable for removing screws in close
quarters.
 66 First Book of Gunsmithing

BENCH BLOCK
When trying to remove drift pins from various gun parts, you
will discover that it is difficult to position the
part solidly to take
the blow, and provide an escape area for the drift pin to come
still

through. A bench block will give a means to easily remove the drift
pins from practically any weapon without any damage to the gun
or the pin itself.
To make a bench block, cut a scrap of 2-inch-by-4-inch lumber
to a 6-inch length; sand all edges smooth. Lay
out and mark the
groove and retrieval pocket. Make several saw cuts within
the mar-
gin of the groove layout lines, then finish cutting to
size with a wood
chisel. Use a tight-fitting sanding block with
sandpaper, and smooth
all edges of the groove. Make diagonal saw cuts for the
retrieval
pocket and remove the remaining wood with a wood
chisel. A Va-
inch drilled hole will complete the project.
You may want tothe pores of this wooden bench block and
fill

then varnish it to prevent the wood from soaking up the

oil that
drops off the various gun parts. To do so, sand smooth,
apply wood
filler, and resand to bare wood after
the filler is completely dry.
Apply another coat, and when dry apply a coat of spar varnish.
When
the varnish is dry, rub the block lightly with fine
sandpaper. Apply
another coat of varnish very evenly. When this final
coat is dry, the
bench block ready for use.
is

The dimensions given for this bench block are flexible. If

another
size would serve you better, change them.
For example, a piece of
4-inch-by-4-inch lumber may be better. In this
case, other dimen-
sions will remain the same, except that
the V4 -inch hole from the
groove to the retrieval pocket will be longer,
enabling the block to
handle longer drift pins.
This bench-block project is relatively simple, and
many may be
tempted to do the work without taking too many pains.
It will prob-
ably work just as well, but it is a good idea to
get into the habit of
doing nothing but the finest work, even on the
simplest of projects.
I once was given the job of
refinishing an entire gun collection that
had been slightly damaged by a small fire in the owner’s
home. After
the work was completed, the owner admitted
that he had been re-
luctant to entrust the entire collection to just
anyone. But after he
happened to notice the fine work that I had put into a
simple block
of wood on my bench, any doubts he had
vanished. If I took that
Tools that Work 67

much trouble with a block of wood that made little difference, he

reasoned, I must really do fine work when it counts.

TIME-SAVING DEVICES
A skilled gunsmith can turn out a large amount of work with
only a few hand tools. However, few professionals rely solely on hand

tools; most have shops equipped with loads of special tools to make
the work go easier and faster.
Power can also help the hobbyist turn out certain gun
tools
repair jobs faster, but few part-time gunsmiths can afford to invest
in a large array of power tools. A good lathe, for example, could cost
$3,500 or more, and a milling machine about the same amount. If
you add accessories, the amount can quickly double. But face it,
eventually every serious hobbyist is going to wind up with some
power tools. The main objective is to be selective and not waste
money.

Plan Before Purchasing

The purchase of any good power tool is going to require a rel-

atively large cash outlay, so careful planning is necessary to stretch

your dollar the farthest. A piece of equipment that will stand idle
in your shop is not a good investment. Don’t, for example, buy a drill
press just because another gunsmith has one. The majority of that
gunsmith’s work may consist of mounting telescope sights on rifles,
in which case, the drill press is almost indispensable. On the other
hand, if your work consists mostly of blueing firearms, a power buffer
to polish the metal parts prior to blueing would be a better invest-
ment. By the same token, if you specialize in making small replace-

ment parts for obsolete firearms, a milling machine and a small,

inexpensive lathe would be a good investment. Before purchasing
any expensive power tool, be sure you have a need for it.
Once you decide that a certain power tool would be beneficial
to you, begin gathering all the information available about the var-
ious types on the market. Look through tool catalogs, compare ca-
pabilities and prices, and then decide which model suits your needs
the best. Compare the specifications of different models. Then ask
people who have been using the tool how it performs for them, what
they like about it, and what they do not like.
 68 First Book of Gunsmithing

Also keep in mind that the most expensive piece of equipment

is not necessarily the bestj or it might not be the best one for
you.
Carefully investigate each piece of equipment, and then decide
which one is best on the merits of how it will suit your own needs.
To quote John Ruskin, of yesteryear:

It’sunwise to pay too much ... but it’s worse to pay too little.
When you pay too much, you lose a little money that is all.
. . .

When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because
the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it
was
bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits
paying a little and getting a lot. It can’t be done. If you deal
with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk
you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for
something better.

would be difficult, if not impossible, to recommend an as-

It

sortment of power tools to fit everyone’s needs. But for

hobbyists
who will be doing average gun work and for those who eventually
want to branch out into full-time careers, the following section
lists
power tools that might be needed in the recommended order of
pur-
chase.

Drill Press
The first large power tool I purchased for my shop was a drill
press and stand, and it has paid for itself time
and time again.
Besides its obvious uses — drilling holes in metal for mounting sights
and such the press enables me to do precision jeweling on
gun bolts
and other parts, makes sling swivel installations a snap,
and aids
in inletting stocks when a Forster wood bit
is used in the chuck. In
fact, after I used the press for a while and
learned to use the various
accessories, I wondered what I ever did without it.
If a good drill presstoo expensive at this time, do not bother
is
buying an inexpensive one that will not bore true holes or
handle
the work. Instead, purchase a press that will attach
to a hand drill
motor and make this do until you can afford a better drill
press.
The accessories for drill presses are numerous and
permit all
sorts of jobs to be done on the press. For
example, when drilling a
hole in metal to be tapped, a B-Square Tru-Tapper
will help you
Tools that Work 69

Fig. 5-26. B-Square-brand jeweling fixture used in conjunction with the drill
press to jewel bolts and other metal parts.
 70 First Book of Gunsmithing

make straight threaded holes because it is held true in the same

chuck that drilled the hole. Its use eliminates the need for tap guide
bushings and other cumbersome items. To use, just drill the hole
and replace the drill bit with the Tru-Tapper. The wrench revolves
and slides up and down on a ground spindle to accurately guide the
tap. Comfortable ball handles allow complete control of the tap.
Besides guaranteeing straight threaded holes, the device will
also
help eliminate tap breakage.
To make or sharpen screwdriver blades to fit any gun screw
exactly clamp a B-Square Blade Maker to the drill press to hole the
blades for precision hollow grinding. Insert a grinding stone
into the
chuck of the drill press, and lock the screwdriver shank into the
B-
Square Blade Maker. The blade maker assures parallel blade faces
and blade tips.
You can also turn a drill press into a milling machine with a
B-Square Milling/Drilling Table. The table with vise fastens to the
center hole in the drill press table and is constructed of
heavy cast
iron and steel. This device can be used for milling
gun parts when
cutters are chucked into the drill press, as well as for
scope mounting
and jeweling. The adjustable gibs have a 5-inch travel in both
di-
rections and .001 graduated dials, and the table rotates 360 degrees.
Other accessories are available for a drill press that will
enable
you to perform many
jobs around the home, such as building fur-
niture. For example, a mortising package can be
used for drilling
square holes for precise, invisible joinery. With a special
router
chuck and router bit, the drill press becomes a precision
router for
fluting and dovetailing. Drum or sanding flutter
sheets turn the
press into a sander for getting into those hard-to-reach
places.
If the press angle drilling, you can chuck an arbor into
tilts for
the press, and attach buffing wheels for polishing
gun parts prior
to blueing or wire wheels for carding during
the hot water method
of blueing. Swing the table away from the spindle, tilt the spindle
out for accessibility, and you are in business.

Small Lathe
Many experts would recommend a bench grinder as the second
power tool for the home gun shop. It is a very handy tool to have
around. But since an inexpensive grinding wheel can
be purchased
Tools that Work 71

Fig. 5-27. Universal sight jig set-up on drill press table ready for drilling
holes for scope mounting.

foruse in either the drill press or a small lathe that will accom-
modate most of the grinding operations encountered, a small bench
lathe is recommended here instead.
want to get a larger lathe with a 9-
While you eventually will

£
Fig. 5-28. Unimat 3 lathe set up for turning firing pin.
 72 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 5 29. Workpiece in 3-jaw chuck of the Unimat 3 with countersink drill
about to mark center.

or 12-inch swingand 36 inches between centers, a small lathe, such

as an Atlas or Unimat 3, is all that is needed
initially. Gunsmiths
say that the Atlas lathe with about 20 inches between
centers is
hard to beat in both price and performance. As I
have not had a
chance to try one, the Unimat 3, which I have used,
is described
here.
At first glance, the EMCO Unimat
3 appears to be a toy, but
nothing could be farther from the truth. Although
small in size, it
is an authentic, scaled-down version
of the real thing— a universal
machine for longitudinal turning, taper turning,
thread cutting,
drilling, milling, dividing, grinding, cutting,
polishing, sawing, wood
turning, planing, and routing. The Unimat 3 will turn out firing
pins, drift pins, and similar small parts all day long without tiring.
For a little extra money, a vertical drill and milling
attachment can
be added that will perform all sorts of jeweling,
drilling, and milling.
But do not expect the machine to perform as fast as the
larger ones.
Take your time and you will be able to turn out precision work.
One attachment that is recommended is the collet for holding
milling cutters, and round workpieces when
drills,
the highest ac-
curacy and concentric running are demanded.
This attachment is
 73
Tools that Work

Unimat 3 in milling position finishing up a .22 rim-fire chamber

Fig. 5-30.
"ironing tool.”

Abench grinder removes a lot of metal quickly and is excellent

Fig. 5—31.
for such purposes prior to final finishing.
 First Book of Gunsmithing
fitted onto the spindle nose by means
of a specially machined flange.
Ten collets for gripping diameters of 1/32 inch to 5/16
inch in steps
of 1/32 inch are available.
Once you learn to use the lathe, you will be able to make
many
other tools and accessories with it, including
headspace gauges, and
chamber-ironing tools. You will be able to mill an occasional
trigger
guard or hammer, but be prepared to spend several
hours on each.
The 3.6-inch swing over the bed makes it possible to
center most
.22 rim-fire bolts between the head and with enough
tail stocks,
room for the bolt to
turn without hitting the bed. A bolt-facing lathe
bit can then be used to open up the
bolt face as required.

Bench Grinder
A bench grinder will mainly be used to sharpen tools
and drill
bits and maintain the other tools used in
gunsmithing work. It will
also grind down metal surfaces rapidly
and is excellent for such
purposes prior to final finishing with a file or polishing
wheel. With
one or both grinding wheels removed, buffing
wheels can be attached
to the arbors to polish metal surfaces
for gun blueing. Or, when wire

Fig. 5-32. One of the grinding wheels has been

removed from
grinder to convert it to a polisher.
this bench
 Work 75
Tools that

wheels are used, it is possible to card metal surfaces when using the

hot-water method or slow-rusting process of gun blueing.

Welding Outfit
Although not really a power tool, an oxy/acetylene welding
it is

kit to use for welding, silver soldering, brazing, and heat

treating

parts should be the next purchase. Heating and bending or welding

bolt handles is just one job the welding outfit will perform.
There
readily
are countless broken parts for which replacements are not
available that can be mended with a welding outfit and silver solder.

Lathe
When selecting a lathe for gunsmithing work, the most impor-
it will be
tant consideration is the size and amount of work that
used for. The lathe should be large enough to accommodate
the

various classes of work that will be handled. This is determined

by
the greatest diameter and length of work that will be
machined in
the lathe.
Ifyou anticipate many conversion jobs which require barrel
then
turning, bolt facing, and chambering and threading of barrels,
you will need a lathe like the JET Model 1236p Bench Lathe.
Each
lathe, however, has advantages and disadvantages,
and the final
decision to purchase one should be made only after you
have thor-
oughly and candidly analyzed your abilities and your anticipated
specialty, and your probable future desires.

Fig. 5—33. Jet Engineering 1236p Bench Lathe is ideal for most gunsmithing
work.
 First Book of Gunsmithing

Milling attachments are also available for most lathes that will
do a great deal of milling in the gunshop. The milling cut
is con-
trolled by the hand wheel of the lathe carriage, with
the cross-feed
screw of the lathe and the vertical adjusting screw at the
top of the
milling attachment.

Milling Machine
A milling machine can be a worthwhile investment if the
shop
is engaged in making a lot of gun parts
from patterns or duplicates.
By today s standards, a milling machine is really not too expensive.

Fig. 5-34. This milling machine would be an asset to any

gunshop.
 Work 77
Tools that

but the machine itself is only part of the story. When several
milling
is quite
cutters are required (and they usually are), the investment
large.
In general, a millingmachine is designed to cut metal by means
of a multitooth rotating cutter. The machine is constructed in such

a manner that the workpiece is fed to a rotary cutter instead of a

fixed cutter being applied to a rotating workpiece,

as on a lathe.

The milling machine shown in figure 5-34 is ideal for the gun-
shop because it is also a complete drill press. Almost any small gun
can be machined on this tool. In fact, the
part, including a receiver,
milling machine was developed for use in gun factories. A
seasoned
parts
operator can use the machine to make all sorts of replacement
for firearms or to make complete firearms.

Heat-Treating Furnace
Thereone tool that deserves mentioning— the heat-treating
is

furnace. Several types are available in a wide price range.

The Hup-

being
Fig. 5-35.One-piece trigger guard for Winchester Model 70 (pre-1964)
machined on milling machine.
 78 First Book of Gunsmithing

pert Electric Heat-Treating Furnace, available

from suppliers of
gunsmithing tools, is designed specifically for precision heat-treat-
ing in gunshops. It is simple to operate and service.
The gunsmith who makes tools and parts, such as firing pins,
drift pins, sears, reamers, and springs, will
have to harden them
correctly. Many use the color method of hardening
in a gas flame,
but the process cannot be controlled this way. The
odds against
obtaining the correct hardness every time are high.
Therefore, for
the shop that turns out a lot of this work, an electric
furnace is a
good investment.
For removing parts from the hot furnaces, one or more
sets of
tongs are necessary. Special tongs, available from
Frank Mitter-
meier, Inc., are specially designed for handling small
parts in heat-
treating furnaces and are highly recommended. They
are made from
V4-inch stock and are about 16 inches long. Insuring
a positive grip
on various objects, they permit the operator to handle
parts easily
from a distance.

Fig 5-36. MMC Power Checkering Tool can speed up the checkering op-
eration once the user becomes familiar with its
operation.
Tools that Work 79

Miscellaneous Power Tools

With the addition of a barrel vise and wrench, the experienced
craftsman who has the tools mentioned will be able to handle almost
any type of work encountered in the operation of a gunshop.
A look through any gunsmith supplier’s catalog reveals a large
array of gunsmithing tools that have time-saving capabilities. For
example, electric checkering tools will speed up the process of check-
ering once you have practiced enough to use the tools correctly.
Power buffers by Baldor up the polishing process
or B-Square speed
prior to blueing firearms. As a gunsmith, you might get into re-
loading ammunition, developing new wildcat cartridges or new loads
for factory cartridges. In which case you may want an
electronic

chronograph and maybe even a pressure gun to check the chamber

pressure of your reloads.
 f s

J-

% (

%
 Chapter

Materials and Supplies

GUNSMITHING SUPPLY CATALOGS contain hundreds of solu-

tions,compounds, and other materials related to gun work. It would
be impractical to buy all of them, so stock up on the materials you
will be using the most and purchase others as the need arises. This
is easy to do if you work only on your own guns, since it is simple

to determine what work you will be doing in the near future. If,
however, you work on other people’s firearms, either full-time or
part-time, it is a different story altogether. Estimate your needs in
advance so customers will not have to wait any longer than neces-
sary.
While an individual’s needs will vary from person to person, the
following list of materials and supplies are the recommended ones
for outfitting a shop from scratch. Do not let this list dictate your
needs. If you feel that something is missing, buy it. Should a par-
ticular item seem unnecessary, then omit it.

81
82 First Book of Gunsmithing

Unless otherwise noted, all materials are available from Brow-

nell, Inc. A request for their catalog will give current prices and
ordering instructions.

ABRASIVES
The uses wool around the gunshop are many: removing
for steel
rust, polishing, burnishing, cleaning, finishing, touching-up with
cold blue, carding when using the hot-water method, and scouring.
Most wool found at the local hardware store are too
sizes of steel
coarse for gun applications. Obtain a pack of steel wool pads in 0,
00, 000, and 0000. For scouring, obtain sizes 1, 2, and 3.
Many
uses will be found for abrasive cloth in grit sizes #100,
#150, #240, #400, and #600, including stock work, hand polishing
metal surfaces prior to blueing, removing high spots on metal and
wood. Gritcloth is becoming very popular with professional shops
where hand sanding or polishing is composed of hundreds
done. It is
of thousands of abrasive particles that keep cutting up to fifteen
times longer than any other abrasive cloth. And it cuts faster too.
For finishing gunstocks, Gritcloth cuts off the whiskers rather than
pressing them inward as partially loaded sandpaper often does. Fur-
thermore, Gritcloth will remove old finishes from gunstocks without
a trace of filling or loading from the old oil or varnish.
Flex-I-Grit, a tough mylar sheet impregnated with fast-cutting
abrasive, can be bent, folded, creased, and soaked in water or solvent
and still keeps on cutting or sanding. When you think the sheet has
had it, try washing it with soap and water. Chances are the sheet
will be as good as new. Users claim that this type of abrasive cloth
will last up to nine times longer than conventional sheets, yet it
sands every possible contour or configuration without peeling, crack-
ing, or tearing; wet or dry; and without staining the work. It is
perfect for final finishing of gunstocks and for hand polishing metal
gun parts prior to blueing.
Now, do not go out and buy great quantities of these abrasive
papers and cloths. Everyone has different preferences in the way of
tools and materials. Therefore, try a few sheets of each type of
abrasive cloth and then settle on the one (or ones) you like the best.
Or keep small amounts of the different types on hand for various
uses. For example, use No. 0 aluminum oxide finishing paper for the
Materials and Supplies 83

first cutting on a stock refinishing job if the stock is badly scarred,

and then go to Gritcloth, and finally to the finest grades of Flex-1-

Grit for final finishing.

FINISH REMOVERS
A lot of work and time can be saved when refinishing wood and
metal parts on firearms by using a finish remover before sanding
or polishing. TM-4 Finish Remover removes lacquer, varnish, paint,
oil,and some two-part epoxies from wood, plaster, glass, and metal.
To remove most finishes, spread the solution on the surface with a
natural bristle brush and wait about twenty minutes. After the
finish softens, wipe it off with a wet towel or wet burlap. When
removing finish from checkered areas, use a small stiff brush and
plenty of water. Scrub lightly until the TM-4, finish, and water
combine to form an emulsion. Remove this with water.
Epoxies and very thick gunstock finishes may require a second
coat after about thirty minutes, as well as some light scraping. To
remove stains from wood, let the TM-4 stay on the wood for about
one and a half hours. Then use a stiff brush and water to make an
emulsion, and wipe the surface clean with a rag or sponge.
For heavy oil finishes like those found on old military weapons,
about one cup of Mr. Clean and a half cup of Clorox to a gallon of
hot water will do wonders. Use a stiff cleaning brush and scrub the
stock with the hot cleaning solution for about five minutes. Then
heat the stock over a hot plate or similar source to dry it, but be
sure not to let any of the wood get so hot that it becomes scorched.
Wipe off any linseed oil that may have bubbled to the surface, and
de-whisker the surface with fine steel wool. For stocks in not-too-
bad condition, about three applications are all that is necessary.
However, some rough military stocks could require as many as
twenty or more applications to get all of the oil out of the stock.
Brownell’s Rust and Blue Remover removes the rust and old
blue from firearms prior to blueing. It comes in concentrated form
and is mixed about one part solution to one part water. The remover
is designed to attack only rusted steel, providing immersion is not
unreasonably long — several hours. The rust and old blue will be

completely removed, leaving nothing but the bright steel. Follow

the directions printed on the label attached to the bottle.
84 First Book of Gunsmithing

SHELLAC STICKS
For repairing dents, scratches, and deep tool marks, shellac
sticks are preferred by professionals. They are available in white,
ivory, transparent, medium walnut, light transparent, light walnut,
dark walnut, Circassian walnut, and black.
Begin by cleaning the area to be repaired. Heat the pallet knife
blade with a propane torch until it melts the shellac when pressed
against the end of the stick. When a small amount of the melted
shellac on the blade, immediately wipe it across the area to be
is

repaired. This is best done by turning the blade and then, holding
the knife at a 45-degree angle, drawing it over the dent, scratch, or
what have you. Your motion should be quick, yet gentle, and if you
fail to fill the dent on the first pass, repeat until you do.
After the shellac has thoroughly hardened — which will take
only a few minutes — sand down the area so that the fill is flush with
Then finish the repaired area the same
the stock. as you would finish
the undamaged areas of the gunstock.

ABRASIVE COMPOUND KITS

Lapping parts remove surface roughness, smoothing out bear-
to
ing surfaces in gun actions, barrel crowning, and similar work re-
quires a variety of grit sizes in a paste form. There are dry-powdered
abrasives in 120 to 600 grit that require mixing with oils before use,
but you will be money ahead by buying those already mixed such
as Clover Compound. These abrasives are formulated with a special
grease base that lasts a long time and does not break down under
heavy use. These compounds remove metal fast and are ideal for
nearly all fitting and lapping operations. A kit is available that
contains six sizes from 120 (coarse) grit to 800 grit (micro fine).

HARDENING COMPOUNDS
Asparts for obsolete guns become harder to find, professionals
and hobbyists will have to manufacturer more parts to replace those
that have become lost, broken, or worn. In doing so, parts that are
subject to wear will have to be hardened. One easy way to accomplish
this is to use Kasenit Surface Hardening Compound for case-hard-
ening plain carbon or low carbon alloy steels. The compound car-
burizes surfaces quickly to uniform depth, giving a hard-wearing
Materials and Supplies 85

surface while retaining the toughness of the core. It is nonpoisonous,

nonexplosive, nonflammable and is excellent for hardening firing
and other small metal parts having
pins, drift pins, sears, punches,
a low-carbon content. Brownell Hard-N-Tuff works in a similar way.

CLEANING PADS AND SWABS

Clean rags and applicators are often needed at the bench. There
are commercial suppliers who, each week, will leave a specified
quantity of cloths and pick up the dirty ones to be washed and
cleaned. This is very convenient, but gets expensive.
Brownell Cleaning Pads cost only pennies apiece and are ideal
for all kinds of wipe-on and wipe-off jobs around the shop. These 100
percent nonwoven cotten pads are completely lint-free and clean and
will not scratch delicate surfaces. This can be used on sights, optics,
and lenses without damaging them. They come in bags of one
hundred. Keep a couple of bags on hand.
When I began blueing firearms by the hot-water method and
by the slow-rusting process, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to
hold a clean cotton ball to apply the blueing solution. This method
worked fine except that some of the solution would eventually get
on the jaws of the pliers and rust them. If I oiled the pliers the oil
could get in the cotton balls, and in turn ruin the blueing jobs. I now
use a ring-handled dauber-type swab. A cotton-tipped applicator,
such as Q-Tip Swabs, is another good applicator for hard-to-get-at

spots.

MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS
Cleaning rods and materials to clean all types of firearms will
be fully described in another chapter of this book. Keep a bottle of
touch-up blueing solution close by since you will need it on practi-
cally every job. Stock-finishing materials are other items that should
be considered. All of these are fully described in their appropriate
chapters.

GUN PARTS
Every gun that is used to any extent will eventually need a
replacement part. For firearms currently being produced, this pre-
86 First Book of Gunsmithing

sents few problems. Most parts can be obtained from either the
manufacturers or their distributors. On the other hand, replacement
parts for obsolete firearms are becoming increasinglymore difficult
to find and, when they are found, are quite expensive. The burden
can be lessened to some extent by knowing where to look for the
parts, and knowing what dealers (who trade in obsolete gun parts)
have available.
Gunsmiths who can furnish replacement parts quickly, and in
turn get firearms in working order again, have the most business
and seem to have a better customer-dealer relationship. Therefore,
it would seem that anyone planning to become involved in gun repair

should load up on parts for every weapon, and watch the customers
flow in. But this is not the way it usually happens. It takes time
and a large amount of working capital to accumulate that many
parts. The key is knowing what guns are used the most in your area
and what parts on these guns are subject to the most wear or break-
age, then "tool up” accordingly.
Aperson just starting out may be at a loss as to what gun parts
to purchase first. Here’s a list of gun parts, most of which can be
obtained from the gunsmith supply houses, to purchase initially.
(See the Brownell catalog for a complete description.)

Weaver Scope Parts Kit

Universal Rear Sight Elevator Kit
Shotgun Sight Kit
Weaver Top and Side Scope Mount Base Assortment
Fillister Head Screw Kit
Sight Base Screw Kit
Roll-pin Kit
Firing Pin Kit
Assortment of spring kits
Blank Screw Kit

Other parts can be added to this list as the need arises. For
example, if you do gun repair work, you will quickly learn to keep
a supply of firing pins, cartridge and cartridge lifter springs
lifters,
for Savage .22 rim-fire autoloaders. Firearms of this type are popular
all over the country, and the items mentioned are the ones most

likely to give trouble. You will also want to obtain extractor-car-

Materials and Supplies 87

tridge lifter springs for Marlin .22 rim-fire autoloaders as well as

cartridge guide blocks.
Write to the firearmmanufacturers and request their catalog
of gun parts. In most cases, you will receive an exploded view of the
firearm with all parts numbered, and then a reference list or sched-
ule giving the name and price of the part. Besides giving the infor-
mation needed to order gun parts, these catalogs are valuable ref-
erence for assembly and disassembly of firearms.
There was a time when you could phone Winchester Arms or
Savage Arms and request gun parts for any firearms currently in
production as well as many obsolete guns, and obtain the parts
without much trouble. Today Winchester sells all of their parts for
obsolete weapons to Numrich Arms Corp. of West Hurley, NY 12491.
Numrich is also the northeastern parts distributor for Savage Arms
gun parts, and probably more manufacturers will follow this ap-
proach to selling gun parts in the future.
When searching for parts for obsolete firearms and if not sure
of the names of the parts, make a sketch of the part, or take a good
close-up photo, and send an antique gun parts dealer. Give as
it to
many specifics as possible about the gun in question, such as model
and serial number. One of their experts is likely to know what the
part is and will be able either to furnish it or to tell the best source
for obtaining it. But then again they might not. Some dealers in
used gun parts are becoming so independent that it is now impossible
to get a personal reply. For example, an announcement in the most
recent catalog from Dixie Gun Works, Inc. states:

SORRY
Due toour customer-friends sending in two or three
hundred or more questions per day and because there appears
to be no let up in these questions, we are taking a serious step
by announcing that hereafter we cannot answer these. I hope
you will be understanding on this point. May I refer you to other
local collectors in your home town or you may obtain the infor-
mation from reference books.

A few of the major suppliers of obsolete gun parts include:

Antique Gun Parts, Inc.

1118 S. Braddock Avenue
Pittsburgh, PA 15218
88 First Book of Gunsmithing

Bob’s Place
Box 283J
Clinton, lA 52732

Dixie Gun Works

Highway 51 South
Union City, TN 38261

Numrich Arms Co.

West Hurley, NY 12491

Walter Lovewick (Winchester Parts)

2816 N.E. Halsey Street
Portland, OR 97232

Stoeger Industries
55 Buta Court
South Hackensack, NJ 07606

you repair guns professionally, you will accumulate a stock

If

of replacement parts for a wide assortmient of firearms, and unless

you get overstocked on a particular part, hang onto every part. It
may remain untouched on the shelf for years, but eventually a gun
will come in for repair that requires that exact part.
A good source for parts is often junk guns, which often can be
purchased from pawn shops, estate sales, or public auctions. Or try
advertising in local newspapers for junk guns. There are thousands
of damaged and abused firearms in attics, closets, and basements
all over the country. The owners might want to part with them, but

not realize a market is available.

 Chapter'

Sight Work

IT IS SIMPLE to mount a telescope sight on a modern rifle that has

been drilled and tapped at the factory, provided, of course, you know
how to go about it. However, too many people merely purchase a
mount at the local discount store, install it on the rifle as tightly as
possible, sight the rifle in,and go banging away. Chances are, after
the second or third shot, the scope mount loosens and goes unnoticed
until you miss that prize buck at only forty yards. A dedicated hunter
friend, who is an excellent shot, once killed a deer at nearly a quarter
of a mile with a Remington Model 760 in .30-06. However, a few
months ago he aimed at a whitetail at less than thirty yards and
missed the deer completely. As the buck ran off, the hunter shot at
the deer two more times before it ran out of sight. These bullets cut
small twigs from trees near the deer, but all three shots cleanly
missed. After settling down somewhat, he checked his scope. Sure
enough, it was loose and out of alignment.

89
90 First Book of Gunsmithing

CHOOSING A SCOPE MOUNTING SYSTEM

For best accuracy, a telescope sight must be mounted solidly to
the rifle in such a way that it stays secure, shot after shot. It doesn’t
make sense to spend a lot of money for a scope, and then secure it

with a cheap mount. Precision-machined mounts that are designed

for a particular scope and rifle costmore than some of the imported
varieties, but the extra cost will pay off handsomely in dependability
and increased accuracy.
A one-piece mount, such as the Redfield JR system, is the most
dependable scope-mounting system available. Of course, this type
of mount cannot be adapted to all rifles, but it is the recommended
mount when it can be used. The rotary dovetail feature cams the
ring into a mating dovetail in the base for a good, solid fit. This type
of mount also allows you to remove the scope (not the base), and
later replace it without losing the zero.
The split rings that hold the scope to the mount should be pre-
cision-bored to the exact diameter of the telescope sight, which is

usually 1 inch in diameter (7/8 inch on some scopes designed for .22
rim-fire rifles). If the rings are precision-bored so that a full radius
contact with the scope maintained, an even pressure will be pro-
is

vided around the tube, thereby eliminating the problem of squeezing

the tube out of round, which sometimes happens with strap-type
mounting rings.
The Redfield JR base features an outside windage adjustment
that is capable of overcoming scope mounting problems caused by
drilling the mounting holes out of alignment with the bore, or where
barrels have been threaded into the action at an angle.

MOUNTING THE SCOPE TO THE RIFLE

Most scope mounting holes that are drilled and tapped at the
factory are fitted with plug screws. These should be removed care-
fullywith the proper size screwdriver so as not the mar the screw
heads or the adjoining surfaces. Save these screws in case you want
to put them back into the holes later.
Make sure these mounting holes in the receiver are clean and
absolutely free from oil and grease. A solvent, such as AWA 1,1,1,
will help cut the oil and provide a dry surface so that the attaching
screws will not work loose under the repeated recoil of the rifle. Jet-
Sight Work 91

Fig. 7-1. Lock N’Seal is used to freeze the base screw to the receiver.

Aer Corp. also manufactures an excellent degreasing solution to use

with their cold blueing kit. This solution will do a good job of cleaning
the screw holes in the receiver and the base holes prior to inserting
the screws for tightening.
For .22 caliber rim-fire and other light recoil rifles, you will
probably be able to get a satisfactorily tight mount by tightening
the mount screws as much as possible (without snapping off the
screw head). However, for rifles with moderate to heavy recoil, use
LocTite Super Lock N’ Seal compound to freeze the base attaching
screws to the receiver. Shellac or fingernail polish applied to the
screw threads will do the same thing. However, if you intend to
remove the base anytime in the near future, this practice is not
recommended. Removing the screws once they have frozen to the
receiver is near to impossible, although sometimes they can be loos-
ened by saturating the screws with acetone and penetrating oil. The
regular LocTight Lock N’ Seal (not the super strength) can be used
to help tighten screws, yet it is relatively easy to remove with normal
tools. This latter compound is probably the best choice if you are

going to use anything at all. It is also a good compound to use on

loose action screws since it restores worn parts to their original tight
fit. It flows into gaps and fills to 015 inch, then hardens into a solid
92 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 7-2. Redfield JR sight base mounted on Winchester Model 70 receiver.

with 1,700 psi strength. Wipe any overflow from the action or mounts
before it hardens.
Before applying any Lock N’ Seal or similar product, install the
scope mounts in the normal way, then check the operation of the
rifle. If the base screws are a little too long, they will interfere with
the function of the action. For example, if one of the mount screws
in the forward receiver ring protrudes into the receiver, the locking
lugs on a bolt-action rifle will not lock. Over the past several years,
I have had several customers complain that their new rifle would
not fire. In many cases, the trouble was traced to scope-mounting
screws that were protruding too deeply into the action, blocking or
hindering the movement of the action parts.
Base screws that are too long can be filed down. In many cases,
it will take only a stroke or two of a mill file to correct the problem.

Hold the screw in a pin vise, then file the end of the screw level
trying to avoid damaging any of the threads that remain. Should
the threads become damaged, merely run a die over the thread to
recut it.

Next inspect the scope itself in relation to its position on the

Sight Work 93

action. Set the scope in the mounting rings, and tighten the rings
just enough to hold it in position while you test the operation of the
action. Does the action function properly? Will the bolt (in the case
of bolt-action rifles) clear the scope? Many of the wide-view type
scopes will not work on some bolt-action rifles since the bolt will not
miss the wider viewing end of the scope. If this is the case, move the
scope forward to miss the bolt completely, alter the bolt handle, or
use a different scope. In any case, the time to test for proper operation
is before locking the screws into place with Lock N’ Seal.
When that all is working as it should, place a drop or two of
Lock N’ Seal into the screw holes, or on the screw threads, and
tighten the mounts to the rifle action. Install the rings, and mount
the scope according to manufacturer’s directions.

ADJUSTING EYE RELIEF

Before final tightening of the rings, hold the rifle at your shoul-
der in your normal off-hand shooting position and slide the scope
forward or rearward in the rings until the full field of view can be
seen in the eyepiece. You will notice an area of about one-half inch

Fig. 7-3. A wooden dowel being used to twist the front mounting ring into
position. Until the metal-to-metal contact between the ring and the base gets
broken in, it is not a good idea to use the scope itself to twist these rings; you
may damage the scope.
94 First Book of Gunsmithing

where the full field is visible. Move the scope to its most forward
position for maximum eye relief. When the scope is properly posi-
tioned, rotate it until the horizontal cross hair is parallel with the
ground plane. Tighten the rings.

SIGHTING IN
You can save a lot of time, not to mention ammunition, by bore
sighting your rifle before zeroing it with ammunition. Collimating
is the most accurate system and is the one used by most gunsmiths.
It can be done quickly at home or in the shop before leaving for the
range. The collimator is clamped to a spud that is aligned with the
axis of the bore. The collimator emits a pattern, usually a grid, that
appears to be at infinity.

Collimator

Place the collimator in position, then remove the two adjustment

turret caps on the scope. marked UP on most
The elevation knob is

scopes with an arrow indicating the direction to move the point of

impact up on the target. The windage knob is marked R (right) with
an identical arrow.
The increments marked on the graduated scale around the
knobs indicate the amount of point-of-impact movement in minutes

Fig. 7-5. When sighting through the scope, this is the image that can be seen
when the collimator is in place.
Sight Work 95

of angle(MOA). One MOA equals 1 60 of a degree of arc. Since point-

of-impact change is measured in angles, the amount of actual move-
ment on the target increases as the distance to the target increases.
For convenience, 1 MOA equals 1 inch at 100 yards. (It is actually
1.047 inch, but for this purpose, 1 inch will do.) It therefore equals
2 inches at 200 yards, and 3 inches at 300 yards.
Using the scope adjustments described, align the scope reticle
intersection with the center of the grid. The scope is now parallel
to the axis of the bore. This adjustment will enable you to place your
first shot well within the edges of an 18-inch target. The scope is

now ready for sighting in.

If you do not have access to a collimator, make preliminary sight
adjustments by bore-sighting with most bolt-action rifies. Obviously,
lever, pump, and semiautomatic actions cannot be used with this
method since there is no way to sight down the bore from a shooting
position.
Place the on a steady rest such as sandbags or a Decker
rifie

Shooting Vise. Remove the bolt and, looking down the bore from the
receiver end, move the butt of the rifle around until the target at —
least 25 yards away — is seen centered in the bore. Without moving
the rifle, glance through the scope, making reticle adjustments with
the knobs on the scope until the reticle is centered on the target.
Look through the bore again to be sure the rifle has not moved off

Fig. 7-6. When bore-sighting a sight through the bore of the rifle
rifle, first
and line up your target. Then, when you sight through the scope, the target
will probably appear as in the left-hand picture. Adjust the scope until the
target is centered in the cross-hairs as shown in the right-hand picture.
96 First Book of Gunsmithing

target. If you will be actually firing at a target 100-yards away,

move the adjustments so the cross hairs appear about 1 inch or so
below the center of the target. This will allow for bullet drop from
muzzle to target because when you center the cross hairs on the
target, the bore will be slightly higher.
The distance of the target for actual firing will depend on the
distance at which you normally expect to be shooting. Many hunters
zero their scope at 200 yards. When sighted in at this range, the
mid-range trajectory for most popular hunting cartridges is usually
not more than 2 inches high at 100 yards and they will still shoot
effectively out to 225 yards or more. If you do not have access to a
200-yard range, consult a trajectory chart and have your bullet
strike at the appropriate height above center at shorter ranges. For
example, you have access to a 100-yard shooting range but you
if

want to sight .270 Winchester to strike center at 200 yards, first

consult ballistic tables as supplied by the ammunition manufactur-
ers. Remington ballistic charts indicate that a 130-grain bullet
should strike 1.7 inches high at 100 yards to be zeroed at 200 yards.
Therefore, in actual firing, adjust the scope until the bullet strikes
1.7 inches above the point of aim at 100 yards, and the rifle will be
sighted in for 200 yards.
For best accuracy, zero your rifle yourself since no two people
hold or fire a rifle in exactly the same way. Use a solid bench rest
and tripod or sandbags for best results. Rest the forearm, not the
barrel, on the bag and if possible, zero the rifle in a no-wind condition.
When shooting at 100 yards or more, the bullet crosses the line
of sight twice; the first time about 25 yards from the muzzle, and
then when the bullet strikes the target or gets to the range in which
the rifle is sighted in. If you are unsure of the accuracy in presighting
the rifle and want wasted shot, set up a target about 25
to avoid a
yards from the muzzle. This will give you a better chance of hitting
the target with the first shot. Once you have a shot on the target
to go by, make adjustments until the bullet is printing in the center
of the target. Remember, you will need to make four times the
amount of correction at 25 yards as you will to move the point of
impact the same amount at 100 yards.
To zero the rifle, fire three shots at the desired range. Using the
center of the three-shot group as the hypothetical point of impact,
make the proper adjustments until the group is printing where you
want it.
Sight Work 97

TOP-EJECTING RIFLES
Some rifles, like the Winchester Model 94, eject the fired car-
tridge out through the top of the action, making it necessary to
mount the scope in an offset position in order to allow the cartridge
to pass. One solution to this problem is to use one of the several
mounts on the market designed specifically for the Winchester Model
94 Model 94s of recent manufacture require no drilling and
rifle.

tapping, and the mounts are installed similar to other types on which
the receiver has been predrilled and tapped at the factory. However,
you will have to cock your head slightly in order to view through
the scope since it is offset from the line of bore (fig. 7-7). Many
shooters do not like this, preferring either to omit a scope sight
altogether or to buy another type of firearm.

Fig. 7-7. To use a scope sight onsome rifles, such as the Winchester Model
94, the scope must be offset to allow room for the cartridges to eject out of
the top of the receiver.

A somewhat better solution is to use a Leupold M8-4X Extended

E.R. Scope mounted forward of the receiver. The long eye relief of

this scope permits the shooter toview through the scope from the
extended range. Leupold also makes a unique mount especially for
the Winchester Model 94 that requires only minimal drilling of the
middle barrel band to accept one 6x48 base screw. Another screw
fits into a threaded slot that fits the dovetail cut where the rear
sight is secured. This arrangement is a little different and takes
some getting used to, but after a few rounds on the range, the rifle
and image come up naturally, and viewing becomes second nature.
Unlike some mounts that require drilling of the barrel to accept the
mount screws, this particular mount requires drilling only the barrel
band. So, you can correct a mistake by purchasing another barrel
band.
Fig. 7-8. Leupold M8-4X Extended E.R. Scope and Mount specially adapted
to the Winchester Model 94 rifle enables the scope to be mounted in line with
the bore.

To mount a Leupold M8-4X Extended E.R. Scope on a Win-

chester Model 94 rifle, secure the rifle in a padded vise so you will
have both hands free to perform the operation. In thirty minutes or
so, the should be ready for zeroing in on the range.
rifle

Use a standard hand drill, a No. 31 wire gauge bit, and a No.
6-48 bottoming tap. Add a tube of Lock N’ Seal and you have every-
thing necessary to mount the base onto the rifle. You will need a
hex wrench to tighten the scope ring screws when you are ready to
mount the scope itself.
Once the rifle is secure in the vise, use a brass or nylon punch
to remove the rear sight from the dovetail on the barrel. Drill the
sight out from left to right as you would sight down the barrel. In
fact, almost all dovetail devices on firearms are driven out from left

to right, looking from the receiver to the muzzle.

The dovetail filler block that comes with the sight mount must
be inserted in the rear sight dovetail very tightly. Most are a bit
oversized for that purpose. If it is too tight, file it a little before
inserting it into the dovetail. On the other hand, if the filler block
Sight Work 99

Fig. 7-9. Dove-tail slot in place, and barrel band drilled and tapped for
Leupold scope base.

is too loose, tighten somewhat, either by pining in the shoulders

it

of the dovetail or raising craters in the bottom of the dovetail by

using a center punch. Do not try to make it work if the filler block
is too loose. The sight will shoot loose after only two or three shots.

Once the filler block is in place, loosely set the mount on top of
the barrel so that the front recess (in the bottom of the mount) fits

directly over the barrel band. Insert the rear screw, and turn up a

Fig. 7-10. Acenter punch may be used to raise craters in dove-tail slots to
tighten sights and other items that are to fit into them.
100 First Book of Gunsmithing

few threads into the threaded hole in the dovetail filler block. Eye-
ball the base — —
sighting down the barrel to see that it is level, not
tilted to one side or the other. If it is tilted, move the dovetail filler

block until it is perfect. Now tighten the rear screw.

The front hole, the one over the barrel band, will now act as a
guide for drilling a hole into the top of the barrel band. Use a hand
drill, or if you have one, use a drill press, the job will be easier. The

safest way to drill the hole is to use a No. 25 wire gauge drill bit
which snugly into the existing screw hole on the mount. Make
fits

sure the bit is perfectly aligned with the hole so as not to remove
any metal around the edges of the hole. Tap this bit lightly (once
in the hole) to mark the center onto the top of the barrel bank.
Remove the bit, and use a center punch to make the crater a little
deeper. Now use a No. 31 bit to drill the hole into the barrel band.
If you are careful, you can drill the hole without removing the barrel
band from the rifle. But you can remove the band
to play it safe,
once the hole is started, and finish drilling and tapping it once it is
off. If you choose to leave the barrel band on, you will need a bot-

toming tap; if you take it off, a conventional taper tap will be all
that is needed.
Make sure the tap is perfectly aligned and start turning the tap
until you feel it bite into the hole drilled with the No. 31 bit. Back
itout about a quarter-turn, then take another bite with the tap,
progressing a little further this time before backing it off again
about a quarter-turn. Repeat these operations until you reach bot-
tom. Be extremely careful as you approach the bottom of the hole
as taps are very brittle and will snap off in an instant if too much
pressure is applied. A sharp tap will cut threads easily, so if you feel
that not cutting easily, you have gone far enough. If you ever
it is

break off a tap in a screw hole and have to get it out, you will
certainly be more careful next time.
You can make the tapping operation go smoother by using a
clean lubricant such as Brownell’s DO-Drill, which is specially de-
signed for drilling and tapping operations in all types of heat-treated
steels.
Clean the threads that you have just cut, and try the 6-48 screw
to make sure it fits. Use Lock N’ Seal on the threads of both screws,
and firmly seat the screws in their appropriate holes firmly, but —
not tight enough to break off a screw head. Next, assemble the scope-
Fig. 7-11. Leupold Winchester 94 scope base in position.

Fig. 7-12. The Leupold Extended Scope makes an ideal scope arrangement
for the Winchester Model 94.
102 First Book of Gunsmithing

mounting rings onto the base, following the recommended proce-

dure. Then remove the top portion of the rings, set the scope onto
the bottom of the rings, and replace the tops. Do not tighten the
—
rings yet just have them in position.
With the scope as far forward as possible, hold the rifle as you
would in a normal shooting position. Slowly move the scope rearward
just until you can see the full field of view. Being careful not to
change the eye-relief positioning, rotate the scope until the elevation
adjustment is at top center. Then check the vertical cross hair of the
reticle to see if it is lined up with the vertical axis of the rifle. When
you are satisfied that everything is squared up, take up the ring
screws evenly and firmly. Again, it is important to take the time to
make sure screws are as tight as you can get them without stripping
the threads or damaging the screw heads.
Metallic sights of the peep type are often desirable on rifles for
close-up shots in heavy cover. Manufacturers of these sights make
them for practically every rifle. In fact, most rifles manufactured in
the past thirty years have holes that were factory drilled and tapped
for receiver sights. The mounting procedures are similar to those
given for telescope sights.

SIGHT-DRILLING JIGS
Since sight jigs are expensive, recommended that the
it is not
beginning gunsmith, who might only drill and tap one or two rifles
for scope mounts, purchase one. Instead, have the work done by a
professional.However, if you plan to get a Federal Firearms License
and do scope mounting for others, you will definitely want to pur-
chase some sort of sight jig to make the work easier and quicker,
not to mention assure better accuracy in performing the operation.
Since most of your work will be on military bolt-action rifles
—Mausers and Springfields— a B-Square Professional Drill Jig is
recommended. It is a little expensive, but it will enable you to per-
fectly align mount hole-spacing Weaver, Redfield, and Buehler
for
bases on all Springfields, Enfields, Japs, Mausers, and Remington
Model 30s. This jig eliminates the need for V blocks, clamps, and
measurements. Once the jig is installed, it automatically locates
holes in reference to recoil shoulder and aligns and spaces vertically
on the centerline of the receiver. It is accurate, easy, and foolproof;
Sight Work 103

Fig. 7-13. B-Square Professional Scope Drilling Jig will pay for itself time
and time again if many scopes are to be mounted on bolt-action rifles.

holes are drilled at one time without moving the jig. Bushings are
available for —
both 6-48 and 8-40 screws the two most common sizes
for scope mounting.
Other jigs include receiver sight jigs, barrel sight jigs, Win-
chester Model 94 scope jigs, and universal sight mounting fixtures.
All are relatively expensive for the amateur, but they will pay for
themselves time and again if much drilling is done.
Since the B-Square Professional Scope Mounting Drill Jig will
perhaps be the most useful to the average gunsmith, a brief descrip-
tion of its use follows.
Certain preliminary steps are required when using the jig, and
these vary depending upon the type of rifle. For example, on all
Japanese military rifles, the base block must be installed with the
narrowest hole edge distance forward, and the trigger assembly must
be removed prior to drilling. On Mauser receivers, you must be sure
there is clearance between the Vbushing and the left-hand side of
the receiver. On some Mausers, it is possible that interference with
the V bushing will deflect the jig. In these cases, file or grind the

V bushing side until it clears, but be careful not to disturb the arbor
contact area of the V.
104 First Book of Gunsmithing

To install the jig, remove the stock and bolt from the receiver
and insert the bore align into the rifle receiver. Place both V bush-
ings with their Vs over the arbor holes before placing the jig bar
recesses (counterbores) on the V bushings. Place the base block
against the bottom flat and insert the Allen screws.
of the receiver
Before tightening the screws, however, slide the whole assembly
forward until the jig bar stop pin contacts the rear of the front
receiver ring. This locates the holes so that the scope mount recoil
shoulder will bear against the ring. Place the drill bushing in the
hole you want to drill. Clamp the whole unit in a drill press vise or
just hold the barrel and keep the base block flat on the drill-press
table while drilling. A large base plate can be made to attach to the
base block’s existing threaded holes.
The rear hole spacing in both bars will provide .504 inch spacing
for both front and rear Weaver blocks. On some rifles the forward
Weaver block hole spacing is .860 inch center to center. Use the
same spacing as for front Redfield holes.
To install Weaver blocks on the rear bridge of the Springfield
A-3 rifle use the Redfield bar marked S. This will locate the single
hole required through the rifle dovetail.
On Mauser-type rifles, the Weaver block must be filed or ground
on its forward end to fit the rear bridge and clear the bolt handle.
The manufacturer also recommends that the rear hole in the front
ring Weaver blocks be located using the Redfield spacing to enable
Redfield, Leupold, or similar mounts to be installed later by drilling
additional rear holes only.
When work before actually
drilling the holes, check over your
drilling to make certain that everything is lined up correctly. Be
careful on all holes that the drill does not deflect and drill other
than the correct location. It is also important when using Redfield
mounts that the recoil shoulders contact the gun to prevent shearing
the mounting screws, especially when firing heavy loads.
 Chapter 8

Trigger Repairs and

Alterations

AS EVERYONE KNOWS, the trigger on a firearm, when pulled,

releases the firing pin to ignite the cartridge. But did you know that
this part was originally called the "tricker,” because when pulled
it "'did the trick”?
For best accuracy, triggers are not pulled. Rather, ever-increas-
ing pressure is applied until the sear is disengaged, allowing the
firing pin to fall against the cartridge primer, which in turn fires
the gun. Furthermore, effective trigger squeeze requires proper
follow-through, avoidance of the natural inclination to jerk or flinch
at the moment the sear is released, so that disturbance of the gun
(and consequently the aim) by abnormal finger movement is avoided.
Therefore, trigger squeeze is very important for obtaining the best
accuracy. Just as important is the trigger pull, the distance and
pressure required to move the trigger enough to release the sear.

In general, trigger pull for hunting rifles should consist of a

105
 106 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 8-1. Operating principles of a trigger mechanism.

short, 3- to 3 1/2-pound pull. Any trigger pull that is much more

than 3 1/2 pounds will hinder the control of the shots, and any pull
less than 3 pounds is normally considered too light for
a hunting
rifle.

TRIGGER MECHANISMS
Trigger mechanisms usually consist of three essential parts, not
including springs or pins: hammer (cocking piece, plunger, or stri-
ker), sear, and trigger. In all cases, the hammer is held in a cocked
position by the sear engaging in a notch. The sear may be a separate
part, or it may be the upper end of the trigger itself. The quality of
any trigger pull governed by the bearing surface smoothness of
is

these three interacting components.

In mechanisms in which the sear functions as an integral
part
Trigger Repairs and Alterations 107

of the trigger, the trigger is pivoted by means of a pin or screw

between the upper end, which forms the sear, and the lower end, to
which the pressure is applied. This type of trigger operates on the
primary lever principle with the trigger becoming a lever, the sear
forming the weight, and the pin or screw forms acting as the pivot
point or fulcrum. The finger supplies the power at the lower end.
When a separate sear is interposed between the trigger and
hammer or striker, a dual leverage system is formed, and the trigger
isusually a secondary-type lever. In this case, the weight is located
between the pivot point and the power and is transmitted to the
trigger through the sear. The sear may be either a primary- or
secondary-type lever, according to the design of the mechanism.
Various classes of lever principles are shown in figure 8-2. In
all examples, the closer the fulcrum is to the weight, the
less pressure

isrequired for movement. When applying these principles to trigger

mechanisms, the closer the pivot point of the trigger is to the cocking
piece, the less trigger pull is required. However, the lighter the

Fig. 8-2. Various classes of lever principles.

 108 First Book of Gunsmithing

trigger pull (in a two-stage trigger mechanism), the longer the trig-
ger travel and the greater the creep. Creep is the first stage of the
trigger’s travel to the rear usually requiring a pull weight of one to
three pounds. Then to release the sear for firing, a separate three
to six pounds of pull weight is required.

Fig. 8-3. Viggo Miller’s simple device to improve trigger pulls on militarv
weapons.
Trigger Repairs and Alterations 109

IMPROVING MILITARY TRIGGERS

Military triggers are usually of the two-stage type and are no-
torious for creep and hard trigger pull, but they can be improved
upon in a number of ways. Probably the easiest way is to purchase
one of Viggo Miller’s military trigger attachments, which are de-
signed to eliminate creep and enable the mechanism to be adjusted
as far as depth of the trigger sear engagement is concerned.
To attach one of these devices to the trigger mechanism of a
.30-40 Krag rifle, remove the stock of the rifle to get complete access
to the action and trigger mechanism. Hook the adjusting screw
bracket E (fig. 8-3) into the slot at the base of the trigger. Back
screw B out from the clamp piece until it is flush with the inside of

the clamp (D). Next, remove screw A from the clamp so that the
clamp can be slipped over bracket E. Afterward, replace screw A.
The trigger of the .30-40 Krag is tapered and if the clamp is at the
upper part of the taper, it will be easier to insert screw A. Then push
the clamp down towards the lower end on the taper, being sure lip
C (detail, fig. 8-3) on the bracket remains tight against the base of
the trigger. Tighten screw B is first, and then screw A.
To adjust the trigger turn adjusting screw C in or out as needed
to obtain the desired trigger pull; lock adjusting screw C with the
lock nut.
If not enough clearance around the trigger to accom-
there is

modate the attachment, remove some of the wood with a stock-

maker’s chisel.
Since trigger mechanisms on other types of military rifles vary
slightly, the procedure for installing the trigger attachment also
will vary. However, complete installation instructions accompany
each individual attachment.

TRIGGER REPLACEMENT
For ultimate speed, safety, and accuracy in a converted military
weapon, many gunsmiths prefer to replace the issue trigger with an
all new, easily adjustable trigger mechanism. These mechanisms
are available from gunsmith suppliers. In most cases, only minor
alterations are required to replace the issue trigger with the more
modern one.
Dayton-Traister Company, for example, manufactures an all-
 no First Book of Gunsmithing

steel trigger mechanism with case-hardened operating parts, ex-

pertly honed to deliver crisp, uniform trigger pulls every time. The
tempered, treated, and blued springs resist corrosion and fatigue,
and the grooved finger area helps provide a nonslip finger grip.
Trigger mechanisms are commonly available for most military
weapons and sporting arms.
Custom trigger mechanisms normally are adjustable from two
to six pounds to give a converted military rifle a faster lock time
and to increase the accuracy with a uniform, crisp trigger pull.
For target or bench-rest shooters (and some hunting where fine
accuracy is required), a double-set trigger mechanism is often in-
stalled. In double-set triggers, as the name implies, the front trigger
serves a dual purpose affording the shooter two advantages:
1. To the gun at a normal trigger-pull weight as set by the
fire

installer at the time of installation.

2. To let off at a true hair-trigger setting when cocked by the
rear trigger.
The most mechanisms is fully adjustable for
front or hair trigger on
let-off pull weight from ounces to several pounds. Such trigger mech-

anism is especially suitable for unusually long shots when even the
faintest pull, when firing the gun, could cause a
complete miss. Such
triggers have long been popular with serious varmint shooters and
bench-rest shooters. Even many muzzle-loaders employ the set-trig-
ger mechanism.
Most double-set triggers are easily installed, but slight alter-
ations usually are required to the trigger guard slot and the stock
wood where the existing trigger protrudes.

HONING TRIGGER PULLS

most cases, every trigger mechanism— from inexpensive .22s
In
to more sophisticated triggers— can be lightened or smoothed
by
honing all bearing surfaces to reduce friction. For military trigger
assemblies (and most other types also), the two most important bear-
ing surfaces include the trigger sear and the cocking piece sear.
To polish or hone trigger mechanisms, you will need a sturdy
vise to hold the parts being polished, a set of hard Arkansas stones,
and a magnifying glass to inspect your work. The set of Arkansas
stones should be of different shapes and sizes to enable you to match
the stone to the shape of the part being polished. The Gunsmith
Trigger Repairs and Alterations 111

Hard Arkansas File Set, available from Brownells, Inc., contains all
the true-ground sharp angles, straight edges, and fiats needed for
precision trigger and sear work, accurizing, and close-fitting when-
ever fine stoning is needed.
The main objective in honing trigger sears is to make certain

that the corners are square. Here is where the magnifying glass
comes in handy; make sure to check your work every few strokes.
The first step in polishing a trigger sear is to disassemble the
mechanism so that the sear is readily accessible. Then mount the
part in a sturdy vise, using adequate padding and positioning it so
the sear can be polished with a hard stone when held at a right
angle. Note that you are polishing; you are not trying to remove any
appreciable amount of metal so as to cut below the glass-hard sur-
face. Rather, you want to smooth the existing surface to reduce
friction between bearing surfaces. Be careful not to change the angle
of the sear when polishing or round the edges. The best approach

is to "cut” in a forward motion only, like when using a mill file. Do

not seesaw back and forth as you are sure to round the edges of the
sear.
Unless the sear is in unusually rough condition, a dozen forward
strokes with the Arkansas stone should be enough. Check your work
every couple of strokes with the magnifying glass to insure that the
edges are kept square.
If the edges are already rounded, correct as
you mess up or if

shown in figures 8-4, 8-5, and 8-6. You may find that a hard Ar-
kansas stone will take forever to complete the job. In this case, begin
with a soft stone which will cut faster, and finish up with a hard
stone for final polishing.
Next, polish other bearing surface on the cocking piece. Again,
secure the piece in a vise, and using a hard Arkansas stone, polish
the sear. Be careful to follow the original angle and avoid rounding
the edges. A dozen forward strokes should do it.
Now your work. Reassemble the trigger mechanism and
test
action, cock it, and test the action. If you have a trigger-pull gauge,
measure the weight of pull before and after the polishing. You should
see a big improvement smoothness is still
in the smoothness. If the

not quite to your liking, repeat the polishing. Test the smoothness
often and be extremely careful not to remove too much metal. Re-
member, you can take off more metal, but you cannot put it back.
 112 First Book of Gunsmithing

B
Fig. 8-6. If you should remove too much bearing surface on the
sear, you
can increase the trigger pull weight by deepening the notch in the cocking
piece following the line AB and CD.
Trigger Repairs and Alterations 113

In the majority of cases, this honing process will improve the

trigger pull significantly. The best honing job on a military trigger
mechanism, however, is not going to produce a trigger pull like a
two-stage set trigger.
If the trigger pull is still unpleasantly heavy, and the accuracy
is not good, try changing the angle of the sear ever so slightly. When
performing this operation, you must be even more careful than when
polishing, as one wrong cut will create new or worse problems, often-
times ruining the trigger mechanism completely. Position the sear
in a vise, and using a soft Arkansas stone, draw it over the sear to
change the angle. Although the angle is changed, the corners and
edges of the sear must still be square, not rounded. When the angle
has been changed, polish the new surface with a hard stone.
The first few times you attempt to change the angle of a sear,
take only three forward cuts with the soft Arkansas stone, then
polish the new surface with a half dozen or so passes with the hard
stone. Next test the gunThese steps may have to be repeated
for pull.

several times at first, but after completing several jobs, it will only
take two or three tries to get it right. If too much metal is taken off,
or the angle of the sear is made too sharp, the gun might fire on
closing of the bolt which will require considerable work to correct.

After the trigger pull is the way you want it, test the gun for

safe operation by opening and closing the bolt several times to make
sure the cocking piece holds. Then lightly jolt the butt stock against
the floor of the cocked, but unloaded rifle. If the cocking piece does
not fall, the rifle — and your work — should be safe in respect to the
trigger mechanism.

CORRECTING CREEP
Removing creep from double-stage triggers usually requires the
skill and knowledge of a professional if it is to be done correctly.
However, there is no reason why the beginner cannot perform such
an operation.
As mentioned previously, most trigger mechanisms on the older
military rifles utilize a two-stage trigger mechanism which incor-
porates two fulcrums (humps) at the top of the trigger (fig. 8-7). The
forward hump is responsible for the first-stage creep as when the
trigger is pulled, the hump pivots against the underside of the re-
114 First Book of Gunsmithing

A B A B

Fig. 8-7. Two humps (A and B) are responsible for two-stage let-off on mil-
itary trigger mechanisms.

ceiver, creating a drag or creep. Its main purpose is to slow down

the cocking piece let-off and inform the shooter that the discharge
is imminent.
Creep can be eliminated by grinding this forward hump off. In
doing so, the trigger sear will rise slightly higher against the cocking
piece sear and provide a little more bearing surface. This will usually

A B

Fig. 8-8. To eliminate creep, grind off hump A, and then slightly round off
hump B.
Trigger Repairs and Alterations 115

correct the problem of a rifle accidently firing when the bolt is closed,
when the problem is caused by too much play between the cocking
piece sear and the trigger sear or by too much metal being removed
when trying to smooth up the trigger pull. But if the rifle was func-
tioning correctly prior to removing the forward hump, you will now
have increased the bearing surface which will of course increase the
trigger pull weight. To correct this problem, use a soft Arkansas
stone and slightly round the rear hump (fig. 8-8). Again, this op-
eration should be done gradually with many trials during the pro-
cess. If too much metal is removed here, the rifle will fire on closing
of the bolt.
You should now have a smooth, light trigger pull that is equal
in all respects to the trigger mechanisms on fine sporting rifles with
the exception of those with long trigger pulls. Correct this by in-
stalling one of Virgo Miller’s trigger attachments.

TRIGGER SHOES
To improve the trigger pull, and consequently the accuracy, of
any trigger mechanism, install a trigger shoe. Wide, serrated trigger
shoes are available for nearly all rifles, handguns, and shotguns.
Their function is to evenly spread the trigger release pressure over
the ball of the trigger finger. With the pressure spread evenly, the
trigger pull will seem lighter and give the shooter that delicate feel
that is so necessary for controlled let-off. Trigger shoes are very
popular among competitive and shotgun shooters and
rifle, pistol,

also anyone wanting to make a favorite gun perform better.

When installing a trigger shoe, however, be aware that the
added weight of the trigger shoe may contribute to the accidental
firing of a gun if it is dropped or if the butt is struck against a hard
object, like the floor. Furthermore, the seemingly less pull may cause
the shooter to accidentally fire a round before he or she is ready.
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 Chapter

Stock Repairs and

Alterations

Minor stock repairs and alterations are good starting points for the
amateur gunsmith for several reasons. First of all, the tools required
for stock work are much less expensive than those used to alter
metal parts; work on wood goes much faster than on metal; and
mistakes made on a stock can often be repaired by filling or splicing
another piece into the wood, while mistakes made on metal are
permanent. But do not be too confident —do not start on the most
expensive gunstock. Rather, practice the various techniques on scrap
pieces of wood first, then on an inexpensive gunstock that can easily
be replaced should it be ruined. After several such jobs, you should
have gained enough skill and confidence to tackle more difficult

projects on better gunstocks.

WOODWORKING TOOLS
Only a small number of tools is required to begin stock repairs and

117
118 First Book of Gunsmithing

alterations. Most of them are available from Frank Mittermeier,

Inc., and include the following:
1. Smooth-cut cabinet rasp for smoothing and shaping the stock

2. Chisel and gouges to cut away the extra wood required in

working with a semi-inletted gun stock

3. Bottoming file for flat bedding of the action

4. Barrel-inletting rasp to shape the barrel channel to the exact

dimensions of the barrel
Three hand checkering tools for checkering a gunstock or
5.

recutting an existing pattern during the refinishing process

6. Checking layout guide and instructions

Add some abrasive paper, steel wool, and a set of X-Acto knives and
you are in business. With these tools, you will be prepared to do a
—
considerable amount of stock work either building new ones from
semi-inletted blanks or refinishing stocks already fitted to firearms.

REFINISHING STOCKS
After several seasons of use, a hunting arm will eventually need
a face-lift. Some of the finish will come off and nicks and scratches
will be present.
Begin by removing the stock from the barrel and receiver, and
then remove all attachments, such as butt plate, sling swivels, and

Fig. 9-1. Worn butt stock and forearm for Winchester Model 94 rifle. Note
thatnewspapers have been spread out over the work area to prevent fallout
from the finish stripper from getting on objects around the area.
Stock Repairs and Alterations 119

Fig. 9-2. Almost immediately after the stripper has been applied, the old
finish on the gunstock will begin to bubble and loosen.

Fig. 9-3. A
dent as deep as this one cannot be satisfactorily sanded out; it
must be either filled in or raised with steam.
120 First Book of G unsmithing

barrels bands, from the stock Spread out old newspapers to

itself.

protect your bench and the surrounding areas from the gun-finishing
chemicals. Then spray the gunstock with a finish stripper, such as
G96, being sure to cover all areas. The finish will begin to bubble
in a few minutes, but let it stand for about five minutes, then wipe
the stock with steel wool. Two applications of the finish stripper
usually suffice, but three or four applications may be necessary on
stubborn finishes. Continue wiping the stock with steel wool until
all of the finish is removed and the stock is clean. Use a stiff tooth-

brush to scrub checkering patterns thoroughly.

At examine the stock for nicks and scratches. Most
this point,
of these can be removed with abrasive paper, but sometimes you
will find a deep gouge like the one shown in fig. 9-3. If it is only
dented and no wood is missing, the dent can be raised by applying
steam to the area. Dampen a relatively thick cloth like a wash —
cloth —and place it over the dented area. Press a soldering gun (fig.
9-4) against the damp rag. The heat will turn the water to steam,
which will shoot into the dented area and cause the wood fibers to
swell and rise to the surface of the wood. But do not expect instant

Fig. 9-4. Damp cloth and soldering gun used to raise dent in butt stock.
Stock Repairs and Alterations 121

Fig. 9-5.After only one application, the dent has been raised considerably.
However, it took about a dozen applications to raise this dent flush with the
surface.

results.Although deep dents may require as many as twenty heat

applications before the dents are completely raised, minor dents may
require only a couple of applications. Use this method on all dented
areas of the stock before continuing.
The stock should now be sanded with abrasive cloth. The object
is to take off the least amount of wood possible. If the stock is
fairly rough, start out with 80-grit sandpaper, progressively using
smaller grits until you are down to about 400-grit and the stock is

as smooth as glass. If the stock is in fairly good condition, start out

with a finer grit of 180 or even 220. Sand with the grain of the wood
to prevent scratching the wood with the abrasive cloth. Remember,
take off only the amount of wood necessary to remove all nicks and
scratches.
When the stock is and no blemishes are present,
glass smooth
apply the new finish. A look at any catalog of gunsmithing supplies
will reveal several different types of gun finishes. Reading a de-
scription of each will help somewhat in deciding which finish you
want.
122 First Book of Gunsmithing

have plenty of time (and the quality of the stock warrants

If you

it), use Dem-Bart Sealer-Filler and Dem-Bart Stock Finish. It is

easy to apply, but requires a waiting period between coats which

often makes it a week to ten days before the job is finished. However,
it is an excellent finish which seals and hardens the wood, giving

a desirable, low sheen, London-type finish.

First apply the Sealer-Filler to the stock with a lint-free cloth
and allow about fifteen minutes. Then sand the stock
it to dry for
down to bare wood and apply another coat of filler. Let it dry, and
again sand down to bare wood. Usually two coats will do, but I like
to use three for good measure.
The stock finish can be applied with the fingers. Apply a gen-
erous amount on the wood, use fine sandpaper and sand the area
while it is still wet (rubbing with the grain). Then wipe off all the
excess oil and let it stand for about two days. Apply a second coat
using the same method as the first time, and again let it stand for
a day or two. Additional coats can then be applied until the desired
finish is achieved as long as you wait at least twelve hours between
coats. These later coats are rubbed in with the palm of the hand
until the wood becomes hot from friction. Wipe off any excess and
let it dry. Additional coats of finish can be applied later to refinish

a stock that has been scratched from field use.

A faster method is to use G96 Stock Refinishing Chemicals,
which can be purchased individually or in a complete stock refin-
ishing kit. Remove the old finish as before and thoroughly wipe
away all sanding dust. The stock must be clean and dry for proper
refinishing.
The walnut stain that comes with the kit can be used to high-
light the natural grain of the wood, and it penetrates and dries
rapidly. However, if your stock is of a shade that suits you, omit this
step. To use this stain, apply it raw wood with a dauber (ball of
to
cotton) or brush. Allow it to remain on the wood for about three
minutes, then wipe dry. Reapply until the desired color tone is
achieved. Allow it to dry for twelve hours, then sand lightly with
a medium grade sandpaper.
If the wood has open grain (and most stocks on modern firearms
do), apply the sealer and filler that comes with the Shake and
kit.

mix it well before using. Brush or wipe the G96 Sealer and Filler
on the stock. Allow from three to four hours for complete drying
Stock Repairs and Alterations 123

before sanding with fine sandpaper. Apply a second coat, allow the
finish to dry, and sand it again with a finer grade of paper. You are
now ready to apply the stock finish.
Before applying G96 Polyurethane Plastic Gun Stock Finish,
shake the can Cover the floor, bench top, and surrounding
well.
areas to catch fallout from spray; newspapers work fine. Hold the
spray can eight to twelve inches from the surface and spray the
entire stock with a wide sweeping motion. Allow it to dry for two
to three hours. When dry, rub it smooth with the finest grade sand-
paper or steel wool. Wipe it dry with the tack cloth provided in the
kit to remove all surface dust. Respray and allow it to dry for four
to five hours before again rubbing it down with steel wool and wiping
it dry with the tack cloth. Repeat this process until four or five coats

have been applied. This will produce a high-luster finish. For a dull,
oil-stained finish, rub down the last coat with rubbing compound or
steel wool, followed by a wiping with the tack cloth.
For an even faster finish, following the previous instructions
until the point of applying the finish. Then use G96 High Speed
Linseed Oil for a professional-quality, permanent finish.

INSTALLING SLING SWIVELS

Some rifles come from the factory with sling swivel studs already
affixed to the stock, requiring only the purchase of quick-detachable
swivels and slings for a complete installation. However, more rifles

do not have the holes drilled. This makes a very good project for the
home gunsmith. A hand or breast drill is all that is needed in the
way of tools. If you anticipate much work of this sort, purchase a

set of swivel-mounting step drills to make the drilling easier,

quicker, and more precise. A special blade cuts cleanly without draw-
ing down into the wood, and the unique step shoulder countersinks
to the correct depth in one operation. But the job can be done with
conventional drill bits.

Select a metal drill bit slightly smaller than the stud screw.
Use a piece ofmasking tape to mark the depth of the screw, and
after leveling and marking the cut with a center punch, use the
hand drill to drill the hole in the stock to the proper depth. The hole
should be drilled from 2 to 3 inches from the butt. Clean the hole
out and screw in the rear stud screw using a drift pin punch or
124 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 9-6. The screws can be drilled with a

pilot hole for sling swivel stud
hand or breast drill. Make sure the stock is firmly secured and leveled in a
padded vise. Measure and mark the location of the stud and then drill the
hole to the proper depth. Be careful to keep the drill perpendicular to the
work area.

similar device for leverage. Do not forget to countersink the stud

about 1/16 inch into the stock using a drill bit that is the same size

as the diameter of the stud.

The hole for the front sling stud is a bit more complicated on
one-piece stocks. Drill the hole completely through the forearm
about 2 inches back from the forearm tip. Countersink the outside
Stock Repairs and Alterations 125

Fig. 9-7. A drift pin punch is used to screw the swivel stud into the stock.

Fig.9-8. Once the stud is screwed in tight, the quick detachable swivels are
snapped into place.

Fig. 9-9.The forward sling swivel for this Winchester Model 9422 is installed
by clamping it around the magazine tube.
126 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 9-10. B-Square Swivel Jig is a big help in drilling holes for swivel studs.

and countersink the inside to accept

of the hole to accept the stud,
the nut. Be absolutely certain that no part of this forearm instal-
lation touches the barrel as if it does accuracy will be affected
greatly. Grind off some of the screw if necessary.
On certain firearms with tubular magazines, like the Winches-
ter Model 94, Marlin 336, Winchester 9422, the forward sling swivel
is mounted in a different way. One method is to use a clamp that

fastens around the magazine tube as shown in fig. 9-9. If you obtain
the proper size fitting, the installation is fast and simple. Merely
unloosen the retaining screw, position the clamp in the desired lo-
Stock Repairs and Alterations 127

Fig. 9-11. Shaping a gunstock from a solid walnut blank is a little beyond
the capabilities of most amateurs.

cation, and then tighten screw. Just make sure you have a proper
fit. Also check the tightness of the retaining screw from time to time.

INSTALLING SEMI-FINISHED STOCKS

Unless you are very talented in woodworking techniques, do not
attempt to carve out a complete gunstock from a walnut blank.
While it is true that many professional-quality gunstocks emerge
from amateur’s basements, most beginner’s attempts end up as ex-
pensive kindling. On the other hand, an amateur who has wood-
working tools and the patience to do careful work, will find the
installation of a semi-finished or semi-inletted stock very rewarding.
Two of the largest suppliers of semi-inletted stocks are Bishop
and Fajen; both have excellent stocks at reasonable prices. Neither,
however, has stocks that you can merely drop a barrel and receiver
into. All require a certain amount of fitting and you must have
inletting tools to accomplish this.
The secret to obtaining professional results with a semi-finished
stock blank is the constant fitting of the metal parts to the wood
with slow and careful removal of excess wood. This is the only way
to achieve the desired results.
128 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 9-12. This is a semi-inletted stock blank from Reinhart Fajen. Note that
there is an excess amount of wood and that the tang screw holes do not line
up.

To accomplish a good metal-to-wood fit, you will need some

means to show where excess wood must be removed. One way is to
smoke the metal parts all over with soot from a smoking kerosene
lamp or use inletting black available from gunsmith suppliers. Or
mix your own formula by combining vaseline with lamp black oil
paint, available at any hardware store. Paint all metal parts that
will touch the wood with this blackening solution, and try the stock
for fit. Any high spots on the wood will be indicated by the black
from the metal parts. Carefully remove the wood indicated by the
black marks. Don’t take away any more than the black spots cover,
and only make very shallow cuts.
As the work progresses, choosing which tool to use for certain
applications should become easier. The barrel inletting rasp will be
used, of course, to clean out channel; the chisel and gouge will be
used to remove wood from the sides where the receiver fits into the
stock; and final touch-up and cleaning will be done with the bottom-
Stock Repairs and Alterations 129

Fig. 9-13.Kerosene lamp used to smoke metal parts so that high spots on
wood can be detected.

Fig. 9-14. Inletting black is the blackening solution normally preferred by

professionals.
130 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 9-15. The first trial. Note the black marks on the wood stock blank. A
little wood is taken away and the stock is tried again for fit. This procedure
is repeated until a perfect fit is obtained.

Fig. 9-16. After a dozen tries, removing wood each time, the butt stock is
shaping up.
Stock Repairs and Alterations 131

ing The word of caution here is to practice on scrap pieces of

file.

wood before jumping in on the finished product. Proceed with cau-

tion, removing a little wood at a time. Remember, once the wood is
gone, it cannot be replaced — at least not very easily.
Keep all woodworking tools sharp at all times. You cannot hope
to obtain a fine metal-to-wood fitting ifyour tools are not sharp.
When inletting stock blanks for firearms, I have found that the
little Dremel Moto-Tool, which uses a rotary rasp, speeds up the
work considerably. After trying the stock for fit, I merely touched
the high spots with the rotary rasp and they are removed. I continue
fitting and removing high spots or excess wood until the fit is perfect.
The average semi-inletted stock takes about two hours using this
method. Of course, I still use the basic woodworking tools also.
Most stock blanks come with a relatively fine exterior shape
and require only minimal shaping and sanding before the final finish
may be applied. The stocks from Bishop usually have a little more
wood on them, often enough to allow some minor changes in ap-
pearance to suit your own taste. Fajen’s stocks are shaped almost
to final dimensions and require very little finishing on the outside.
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 Chapter 10

Checkering

A BEGINNERS FIRST attempt at checkering is usually somewhat

less than perfect. In spite of straight lines and good intentions, many
of the diamonds formed in the wood will not be geometrically correct.
But do not let this chill your enthusiasm in the least. With a little
practice, you will be making perfectly shaped diamonds in no time
at all.
Checkering is the process of cutting diamond-like patterns on
the grips and fore ends of rifles and shotguns, and on the grip plates
of handguns. Usually the patterns are formed by cutting crossing
lines into the gunstock with the hand tools described in this chapter.
Manufacturers and some gunsmiths use special checkering ma-
chines that make the process faster and easier.
There are three basic styles of checkering found on firearms in
use today. American checkering is the type most often used on gun-
stocks made in the United States prior to the time when manufac-

133
134 First Book of Gunsmithing

AMERICAN CHCCKERING ENGLISH CHECKERING FRENCH COCKERING

Fig. 10-1. Examples of various checkering designs.

turers began burning checkering patterns into the wood to save

labor. In American checkering, lines are first scored lightly with a
special woodcutting tool using guidelines to form perfectly shaped
diamonds in the pattern. The lines are gone over again with a “V”
tool to deepen the cuts and bevel the edges of the diamonds.
English checkering is similar to American checkering. In Eng-
lish checkering the lines are cut for American checkering, but no
“V” tool is used to bevel the edges. Therefore, the diamonds are left
This type of checkering can be found on all types of shotguns,
flat.

but mainly those manufactured in England and Europe.

French checkering is sometimes referred to as "Skip-line check-
ering” and is the type often used on fine custom-made guns to give
them a more distinctive look. It achieved by using two different
is

width spacing tools. A regular spacing tool is used to cut three lines,
then a spacing tool with twice the width is used to cut one line, then
three more regular width lines are cut, and so on. The effect may
be varied by changing the number of regular lines cut, the number
of lines skipped, or both.
Before starting a checkering job, there are a few tools that must
be made or purchased.

CHECKERING CRADLE
Gunsmiths are famous for inventing ways of doing things, and
therefore it is two gunsmiths who checker a gunstock
difficult to find
exactly the same way. However, most will agree that you must have
some means of holding your work to obtain good checkering patterns.
A checkering cradle makes the work so much easier, and the results
so much better. The most important advantages of a good checkering
cradle are:
1. Itleaves both hands free so that you can checker with one
hand and rotate the stock with the other as you are cutting
Checkering 135

lines — keeping the work area at the most convenient and

controlled position. This eliminates the task of trying to work
around corners of a stationary stock which makes it next to
impossible to keep the line straight. If you move the cutter
in a straight line and rotate the stock accordingly, you have
a better chance of ending up with correctly shaped diamonds.
2. A checkering cradle that is held securely will not wobble.
Anything less will end up in crooked lines and irregularly
shaped diamonds.
The construction of a checkering cradle is relatively simple:
anyone capable of working on firearms should be able to build one.
However, if the material is not readily available, purchase a ready-
made one from Brownell.

CHECKERING TOOLS
There are several checkering tools available. But you may be
better off to buy one of the kits available. I have tried Gunline
Checkering tools with good success and also those manufactured by
Dem-Bart. Both are well worth the money. Here are the cutters
you’ll find to be handy. See Fig. 10-2.
136 First Book of Gunsmithing

V-Edger
This is a single-edged tool used to score the outline and guide-
lines of the checkering pattern and
deepen the checkering as well
to
as to finish the outline where only a single groove is desired. These
are made with 60-degree and 90-degree angles.

Two-Edge Spacer
This cutter used to space the checkering lines one groove at
is

a time. One edge cuts a new groove while the other rides in a pre-
viously cut groove to guide the cut.

Three-Edge Spacer
Use this for the same purpose as the two-groove cutter except
it two grooves at a time. Or it may be used to cut one
will space
groove at a time with two edges riding in two previously cut grooves
to achieve greater accuracy.

Ship-Check Cutter
This cutting head is designed for spacing double width lines
such as used in French checkering patterns.

Border-Vex
Use this to cut an attractive convex border around the check-
ering pattern like on the pre-1964 Winchester Model 70 rifles. One
edge of the tool rides in the scored outline while the other, and the
arched partition between, cuts the border on the outside of the check-
ering pattern.

Pointer-Long
A
fine-toothed finishing tool used to bring the diamonds of the
pattern to a point and to finish the outline. Available in 60- and 90-
degree angles.

Poin ter- Short

Afine-toothed finishing tool used on patterns requiring short
radius maneuvering. Also made in 60- or 90-degree angles.

Veiner
Use this for outlining and for tight corner work, particularly on
more elaborate patterns.
Checkering 137

Miscellaneous Cutters
Besides the various cutters just mentioned, there are three other
tools that will be helpful in checkering new patterns or recutting
old ones. A checkering riffler is used by many checkers and stock-
makers for pointing-up checkering, cleaning up damaged or old

checkering, and for cutting borders.

The bent needle file is specially designed for checkering. The
cutting edge of the "V” 90 degrees which helps prevent the tool
is

from tipping to one side or the other when pointing up 90-degree

diamonds.

Fig. 10-3. of the bent needle file is shaped to help prevent

The cutting edge
tipping the tool from one side to the other when pointing diamonds.

Another checkering file, the 3-square, 60-degree bent, is used

for pointing up new checkering and cleaning out old. It is the only
tool that many professionals use to get true, sharp diamonds in their
checkering patterns.
Some years Monty Kennedy, nationally known checkering
ago,
expert, designed a checkering tool called the "jointer”. Its main pur-
pose straighten out checkering lines which have gone astray,
is to

and to make layout and other lines used in checkering gunstocks

really straight. When it comes to checkering, eventually all of us
goof in one way or another. This usually means one of our lines

goes off just a mite due to the wood grain, a change in density, or
a false move. When this happens, nothing can help out more than
the jointer.

Fig. 10-4. Monty Kennedy’s jointer.

 138 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 10 5. Dem-Bart s S-1 tool is designed to get into tight corners and curves.

Another handy tool is Dem-Bart’s Special S-1which is tool,

designed especially for getting into those tight corners, curves, and
out-of-the way places. This tool cuts with a pulling motion rather
than a pushing motion and is ideal for getting right up to borders
and other tight places.
Checkering cutters come in different sizes designed to cut pat-
terns usually in 16, 18, 20, 22, and 24 lines per inch. To check out
an existing pattern that you want to duplicate, put a measure on
the pattern and count the number of lines within the distance of one
inch. To speed measuring up, purchase a Brownell ChekRchex®.
this
This gadget is a lines-per-inch measuring device that is easy-to-read
and has templates for spacings from 16 to 32 lines per inch. To use,
simply place the ChekRchex® over the pattern to be measured and
match the lines on the proper scale. Because of its flexibility, it gives
good accurate readings on flat or curved surfaces. A 4-inch ruler is
also included.
In time, you may find other handy gadgets that will aid in
checkering gunstocks; layout guides, checkering pounce wheels,
dual cutters. But for the present time, you will be able to get along
nicely with the tools already mentioned. In fact, you do not even
need all of these to get started. Get a Dem-Bart Starter set of tools
and the Leader set offered by Gunline Tools and you are in business.
Checkering

The extra assortment of tools mentioned just makes work a lot eas-

ier.

LAYOUT OF CHECKERING PATTERNS

You may want to design a checkering pattern — perhaps using
the book, Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks by Monty Kennedy
(Stackpole Books) —or use decal patterns, such as the ones supplied
by Stan De Treville, Box 33021, San Diego, CA 92103. Stan has
about two dozen different patterns from simple to complex designs
(fig. 10-6). They can be ordered direct or from most gunsmith supply

houses.

Fig. 10-6. Some of the decal patterns available from Stan de Treville.
Fig. 10-7. After the decals are placed in water for a few seconds, they can
be attached to the gunstock.

To apply the patterns, cut the decal pattern sheet apart on the
dotted lines so that the forearm pattern and both grip patterns are
separate. Soak them in water just long enough for the decal to begin
to loosen from the backing paper. Dampen the areas on the gunstock

Fig. 10-8. Once the outline has been gone over with either an X-Acto knife
or a veiner, lines are cut in one direction with a two-edge spacer, then the
lines in the other direction are cut to form the diamonds.
Checkering 141

where the designs are to go, and apply the decal by carefully sliding
them ofT the backing paper into the desired position. Make sure the
patterns on each side of the stock are in alignment, then swab them
smooth with a clean cotton cloth and wipe off the excess water. Let

the pattern dry thoroughly before attempting to checker over it.

At this point, checkering techniques may vary from person to
person, but I prefer to first cut the outline with a sharp knife, such
as an X-Acto knife. Use a flexible straightedge to guide the blade

on straight cuts, and French curves where the lines curve. Then use
a single cutting tool, the veiner, or a combination of both, to scribe
the pattern outline and the guidelines for the diamond cuts. If the
decal should become damaged during the checkering process, before
the job is completed, you will be able to complete the job since
still

all of the outlines and guidelines are scribed into the wood.
Starting on one of the master guidelines, use a two- or three-
edge spacer and make a cut, pushing the cutter in short see saw
movements until the entire length of the line is reached. Be ex-
—
tremely careful not to go over the border lines even if you have to
stop a half inch before you get to them. Also, be careful not to let
the spacing tool slip out of the guide groove already cut with the
"V” tool or veiner. Care must be taken on each parallel cut because
the grain of the wood, if running somewhat but not quite parallel

Fig. 10-9. the lines have been cut in both directions, the pattern is gone
Once
over with a checkering riffler to clean up lines and to point diamonds.
142 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 10-10. A veiner is again used to bring out border and other lines.

to the line that is being cut, will have a tendency to lead the cutter
off to one side or the other, making the spacing greater or less than
it should be.

Some stock makers like to use three- and four-line cutters as

much as possible because these cutters offer more lines to guide by,
thus insuring that parallel lines are cut exactly where they should
be with less chance of slipping.
Never try to cut the lines to their full depth the first time over;

Fig. 10-11. The job is finished.

Checkering 143

Fig. 10-12. Craftsman at Paul Jaeger, Inc. checkering a stock for one of their
fine bolt-action custom rifles.

cut them down approximately halfway. When all of the lines are cut
this way, go back over the job a couple of times and work the lines
down to where they are about 85 to 95 percent complete. Then use
a single-line finishing cutter or a bent needle file to bring all of the
diamonds in the pattern to a sharp point, when using the American
For English checkering, leave the diamonds flat.
style of checkering.
Begin by practicing several patterns on scrap pieces of wood
before attempting a good gunstock. This practice includes work on
curved surfaces, like on an old baseball bat. Obtaining lines on a
curved surface may seem difficult at first, but if you take a flexible
steel rule with straight edges and wrap it around a curved surface
like the pistol grip on a gunstock, it will be straight. It may look

like a cork screw, but it is straight to the surface of the wood. Now
getting the cutter to follow this straight line is more difficult — it

takes practice.
Don’t rush the job. When a line is cut, be sure that it is right,

regardless of how long it takes to do it. Over-anxious beginners

144 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 10-13. Checkering pattern on Browning Auto-5 Shotgun uses a heavy

3-line border.

sometimes learn the hard way that avoidable mistakes are made in
a few seconds but take hours to correct.
Finish the job by sealing the checkering area with a stock prep-
aration. This may be applied with an old toothbrush. Dem-Bart
Stock Finish gives a desirable low sheen finish. Dem-Bart also fur-
nishes a Sealer-Filler, but this should not be used on the checkering;
only on the rest of the stock when refinishing the entire stock.
Besides the pleasure derived from checkering gunstocks and
dressing up your guns to obtain that custom look, checkering is
functional too. provides a non slip grip for your hands that
It is
especially useful when the stock is wet.

RECUTTING OLD CHECKERING

In refinishing gunstocks,
you will eventually come across a stock
that needs refinishing and has checkering that needs restoring. Re-
finish the stock, using only a toothbrush with finish remover on it
to clean the old checkering pattern; do not sand the areas that are
checkered. A wire brush can be used to remove some of the old finish
between the diamonds. When the patterns are as clean as possible.
Checkering 145

use a bent three-square file to point up and further clean the old
checkering pattern. Apply just enough pressure (and it will not take
much) to keep the cutting edge of the file centered. Advance the tool
in a push-pull motion keeping the arm close to the body to maintain
straight lines. Keep the grooves by blowing or brushing.
free of dust
Then clean the entire recut pattern with a toothbrush and apply two
coats of Dem-Bart Stock Finish, again with a toothbrush.
 rt

4
0

f
* ‘

<

.4
 Chapter

Ornamental Work on
Firearms

SOME GUN OWNERS like to dressup their firearms a little; that

is, add distinctive features that make their guns stand out from the

rest. Such work may include engraving, plating of certain parts,

jeweling of bolt or breech block, stock carvings, and gold lettering

inlays. Most of these added attractions are for appearance only; few,
if any, have any real functional value.

ENGRAVING
Engraving and ornamentation of metal parts on firearms is not
a job for everyone. It takes skill, patience, and a certain degree of
artistic ability. Anyone who lacks any of these should concentrate
on other phases of gun work. Once you have gotten started in en-
graving, the rate of progress and quality of work will depend entirely
upon practice. In fact, learning to engrave on metal is much like
learning to play the piano. Those who practice diligently and reg-

147
148 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 11-1. GRS Engraving pattern stamps are a little expensive, but a great
aid for the beginner.

ularly seem to progress faster and better than those who do not.
But remember, you must first have a certain degree of natural talent,
if you plan to be a real expert.

The first thing to purchase is the book The Art of Engraving by

James B. Meek. This book simply tells you how to engrave simply
and in layman’s terms. Furthermore, it assumes that the reader
knows nothing about engraving. You start by learning to draw
Ornamental Work on Firearms 149

Fig. 11-2. Texas Planters’ Gunsmith Plating Kit is a good choice for the
beginner. The plating solution is merely brushed on with the aid of batteries.

scrolls and layouts, then cut practice plates until you are sure
enough of your ability to actually proceed to designing a pattern,
transferring it to a gun, and cutting it into the steel. It includes
hundreds of original engravings, designs, and layouts by the author
to explain specific points and techniques.
Then get Neil Hartliep’s Beginner’s Engraving Kit and several
practice plates to work on. (All of these items, including the book,
are available from Brownells Inc.) With these items, you should
quickly find out if gun engraving is for you.

PLATING
Many handguns, and certain parts of long guns, are nickel-
plated for appearance and to guard against rust and corrosion. Con-
ventional methods of plating are often beyond the means of the
average gunshop, not to mention the hobbyist, and this operation
is often bypassed. For touch-up jobs, however, Texas Platers Supply

Co. (2453 W. Five Mile, Dallas, TX 75233) offers a kit especially

designed for the home gunsmith. All you need, besides the kit, are
two or three 1 1/2-volt ignition batteries. Two will suffice, but three

will afford speedier results, although it is harder to get an even coat

when working with three batteries. The batteries are connected in
150 First Book of Gunsmithing

series with the negative (

- terminal connected
) to the gun or part,
and the positive + terminal connected to the brush holder or han-
( )

dle. The brush is then dipped into the solution (nickel, gold, brass)

which is brushed onto the surface. Of course, all surfaces must be

clean, and several coats will have to be applied to obtain a durable
finish.
When touching-up nickel-plated revolvers, brightly polished
steel that is first plated with copper and then with nickel will have
a better finish than if the nickel is applied to the bare metal. It is

also easier to blend when done in this way.

GOLD INLAYING
The traditional method of inlaying gold and silver in lettering
on firearms is similar to the way a dentist fills teeth. A quick-setting
amalgam is mixed. A
powder form of gold or silver is mixed with
mercury into a thick paste. At the proper consistency, the amalgam
is sort of like fresh putty. This amalgam is then forced into the
lettering lines under pressure of a hammer and inlaying tools much
like those used for engraving.

Fig. 1 1-3. Custom-built rifle by Dietrich Apel of Paul Jaeger of Jenkintown,

Pa. The inscription is gold inlayed.

An easier method is to The two kits

use a brush-on inlay kit.

currently available are Gold Lode Gold Inlay Kit and Bonanza
Brushing Inlay in either gold or silver. The Bonanza Brushing Inlay
is a do-it-yourself kit designed for the hobbyist. It enables you to fill

engraving and lettering on all guns with an attractive gold or colored

Ornamental Work on Firearms 151

fill. The kit comes with everything needed to fill the lettering on
several guns.
Gold Lode, Inc. offers a 23 karat gold engraving inlay kit that
can be used to enrich all engraving and lettering on firearms with
genuine gold. Each kit contains enough gold inlaying material to
do the lettering on several firearms and the four-step process is
simple. Everything necessary for a complete job is included in the
kit — gold crystals, Agent No. 1, brush, cloth, and dropper.
To use the kit, first carefully clean the area to be inlayed with
a soft cloth and the No. 1 Agent to remove all oil, grease, and dirt.
Then add Agent No. 1 to the gold mixture in the specified amount
and mix with the brush until the mixture is smooth.
Brush a thin coat of gold over the section of the lettering or
engraving and, before it dries, work the gold into the lettering with
the index finger, at the same time trying to keep the mixture con-
fined to the immediate area. Repeat this operation until the lettering
is filled.

Wrap a portion of the wiping cloth around your index finger,

dampen it with Agent No. 1 (not wet, but damp only). To make sure
that the cloth is not too wet, apply a small amount of Agent No. 1

to the cloth, then apply the dampened section to a piece of paper

towel to remove any excess. Gently work your finger and the damp-
ened cloth over the inlayed area to remove the gold from the smooth
sections, leaving the gold only in the lettering. A felt block is also
provided with the kit to be used in the same way as the cloth to
remove any gold from the hard-to-get-at areas.
After completing the entire area, examine the work carefully
to make certain that no spots have been missed. Allow the inlaid
area to dry for thirty minutes before polishing the area with a soft
cloth.

SILVER AMALGAM INLAYING

Even though checkering is the more popular way to decorate
—
gunstocks, there are other ways carving, inlaying, you name it.
One decoration that is gaining popularity is silver amalgam inlay-
ing of patterns on gunstocks. You can design your own or purchase
one of the many offered by Stan De Treville of San Diego, CA. If
you choose the latter method, position the decal pattern on the butt
end of the stock, allow it to dry, and proceed as follows:
152 First Book of Gunsmithing

1. Use an X-Acto knife or other razor-sharp knife to cut the

outlines, slightly undercutting to better retain the silver.
Then use a triangular needle file to smooth the edges of the
cuts.
2. Mix the powder with mercury according to the direc-
silver
tions to make the amalgam. To save a lot of time and con-
fusion, ask your family dentist to show you how to mix a
batch. After squeezing the excess mercury out through a
cloth, the amalgam is forced into the cuts and tamped until
firm.
3. When the silver hardens, sand it down until it is flush with
the surface of the wood.
4. When all is flush, refinish the stock as described in chap-
ter 9.
Remember that mercury is poisonous and should be kept out of
the reach of children and pets. Also, wear latex gloves while working
with the mercury to prevent possible poisoning by absorption
through the skin. Your local druggist or dentist will be able to tell
you where to purchase silver and mercury and might even give you
some pointers on how to mix them for best results.

GUNSTOCK CARVING
Gunstock carving falls right behind gun engraving in difficulty.
The work is you have artistic talent, lots of pa-
easier, however, if
tience, good sharp tools, and time to practice on scrap wood before
attempting a design on your firearm.
A set of stock-carving tools is not cheap. The starter set of Acorn
carving tools listed in Brownell’s catalog will cost you over $50; a
complete assortment is probably the best buy for a beginner. Then,
as you progress in knowledge and ability, advance to more tools to
make the work easier.
Most wood carving ground to shape, but do not have
chisels are
the final edge on them when you receive them. The first step in wood
carving is to learn to sharpen your tools. Each must have a razor-
sharp edge, which must be touched up often with a fine honing stone.
To get started, you must first decide upon a pattern to carve on
your stock. You can design a pattern of your own, or use Stan De
Treville’s decals.
Secure the pattern to the stock with transparent tape, or if a
Ornamental Work on Firearms 153

DECAL CARVING PATTERN DECAL CARVING PATTERN

PATTIRM No 2i
StCHORN SHCCP

DECAL CARVING PATTERN

Fig. 11-4. Stock-carving patterns available from Stan de Treville to get the
nonartist off on the right foot.

De Treville pattern is used, adhere it to the wood after soaking it

in water for a few seconds. Once the pattern is in place, cut out the
lines about 1/16-inch deep with an X-Acto knife or 60-degree veiner
tool. This operation separates the design from the background.

Next use a 3/8-inch gouge and cut the background away from
around the design up to the outer lines you just made with the X-
Acto knife. To cut the background deep enough, go over it at least
twice. Then go over the outlines again before once again deepening
the background. The object is to have the subject, such as a running
deer, high enough from the background to enable you to give it the
proper relief.

This where the going gets a little rougher. Depending upon

is

the design you are carving, you will now be striving for lifelikeness
and fine detail. This is a matter of practice and requires patience
and perseverance. Work slowly and deliberately, determining where
to take out wood and how much to remove. The main thing to be
154 First Book of Gunsmithing

concerned with is not to take out too much. You can always cut away
more, but you cannot put back once it is gone. When completely
it

satisfied that you have done your best work, as far as detail and
relief are concerned, clean your work up and finish the stock.
To finish wood carvings, you will need some small jeweler’s files
and perhaps some fingernail sanding boards. With these instru-
ments file or sand out the tool marks on the entire carving, including
the background. Then use tiny pieces of sandpaper, working your
way to the finest grades, to further smooth out your work.
You can leave the background smooth, following the general
contour of the stock; or use a stippled background. To create the
stippled effect, tap the background at random with a nail, center
punch, or similar sharp object.
At this point, it may be necessary to remove the old finish from
the entire stock in order to finish the carving. However
you are if

careful, you can blend a finish on and around the carving to match
—
the old especially if you know what finish was used on the stock
originally.
Some stock carvers bring out the lifelikeness in their carvings
by staining them before refinishing. To do this use a wood dye like
Brownell Water-Soluble Stock Dye. This dye kit contains an as-
sortment of five different dyes and instructions which tell how to
mix them They can be used individually
to obtain the desired color.
or blended. Apply the dye to the carving with a fine brush, and when
dry, lightly sand it with 00 steel wool. The high spots on the carving
will become lighter as you rub with the steel wool —
leaving the low
spots darker.
When carving wood for the first time, do not work too long at
one sitting. You will become so tiredand probably aggravated that
you will not look forward to continuing the work. Take your time,
working no more than two hours at a time, resting your eyes often.
With a lot of practice, sharp tools, and the will not to give up
after two, four, or more mistakes, you will eventually be able to turn
out fine work. If you also have some artistic ability, you could develop
into one of the few professionals in this country who make a living
at carving gunstocks.
Almost every trade or profession is trying to find a quicker way
to do things, and the gunsmithing profession is no exception. In
recent years, manufacturers and professional shops have been burn-
Ornamental Work on Firearms 155

ing checkering and carvings into gunstocks to simulate hand work.

Strive to accomplish the work by hand, but if you want try wood-
burning. You might be able to find a woodburning kit, which con-
tains a few wooden plates and an electric pencil, at a hobby or craft
shop; if not use a small soldering iron, found at any electronic supply
house. Lay out the pattern on the stock, then burn the lines into
the wood. Clean up and refinish the stock in a usual manner.

JEWELING
Producing attractive little swirls on metal parts is known by
several names, but jeweling, engine turning, and damascening seem
to be the most common. In general, jeweling is the process of using
a circular abrasive instrument chucked into a revolving head, such
as a drill press, to obtain an overlapping pattern of circular spots
on bare metal. The work most often done on the bolts of bolt-
is

action rifles and the breech blocks of other types of actions. Jeweling
can also be found on the interior parts of expensive watches and fine
shotguns. Besides being ornamental, jeweling of metal is also func-
tional since it provides a built-in wear indicator. In addition, surfaces
so conditioned will hold oil better, keeping the surface from rusting
or tarnishing so easily. It is a relatively simple operation that adds
class to fine guns. The process is done with many different devices
such as rubber abrasive rods (pencil erasers will work fine), dowels
with abrasive paper glued to the end, or fine wire brushes.
Besides the jeweling rods, you will need some form of drill press
to get accurately spaced circles. Inexpensive attachments are avail-
able for a 1/4-inch electric hand drill that will suffice if you do not
have a drill press available. You will also need some means to hold
the piece to be jeweled. For flat objects, a conventional drill vise will
do. Rifle bolts are usually held in specially designed fixtures that
allow you to obtain equally spaced circles. Make your own from a
typewriter by removing the roller and inserting some means of hold-
ing the bolt between the two remaining knobs. The space bar on the
typewriter will allow for equal spacing along the bolt, while the gear
teeth on the knob will provide equal spacing around the bolt. Jew-
eling fixtures can also be purchased from any of the gunsmithing
supply houses.
Place the fixture containing the bolt on a drill press table
against a straightedge fence that is clamped to the table, so that the
156 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 1 1-5. B-Square Jeweling Jig set up on drill press to jewel bolt for Spring-
field rifle.
Ornamental Work on Firearms 157

Fig. 11-6. Detail of Jewling pattern.

bolt body is centered under the jeweling tool that is held in the drill
chuck. Coat the bolt with abrasive compound; then start the pattern
at either end of the bolt, but start all rows of spots from the same
end. Run the drill motor at medium speed as you lower it onto the

Fig. 11-7. Remington Model 700 bolt being jeweled on Unimat 3 lathe.
158 First Book of Gunsmithing

bolt to make an engine-turned ring. Then move the fixture approx-

imately one-half spot diameter and lower the brush again to overlap
spots on the surface of the bolt. Continue this for one row of spots.
Then rotate the bolt approximately one-half spot diameter and re-

peat the process. Continue this until the bolt has been fully jeweled
in the desired areas.
For other metal objects, use a straightedge as a guide and eye-
ball the spots as they are turned, overlapping each spot approxi-
mately one-half its diameter. On irregular-shaped objects, clamp
them on a milling table in a Unimat 3 lathe and use the lathe feeds
to move the object the required distance for each engine-turned
circle. I do not use a brush abrasive compound on the bolt, as the

abrasive rods suit me better. Try different methods to see which one
suits you the best.
 Chapter

Metal Refinishing

WHEN POWDER ARMS were first put to practical use around 1350
A.D., was quickly found that the newly-filed bright metal even-
it

tually formed a brown coating when exposed to the elements, caused

by ferric oxide or plain old red rust. The gunsmiths or the owners
of these arms probably tried to rub off the rust, and while they
succeeded in removing the top layer, the metal remained brown
underneath. As further attempts were made, the brown stain became
even deeper, offering a relatively pleasing appearance. The dull
brown coloring of the metal actually was an advantage as the metal
no longer spooked game while hunting or alerted the enemy when
in battle.
This browning concept caught on, and by the early sixteenth
century, nearly every gunsmith had perfected the process of obtain-
ing a rich, deep brown color on all their firearms. The rusting process
was hurried by using a salt and water solution on the metal. This

159
160 First Book of Gunsmithing

rust was carded off with abrasive cloth, and more solution was ap-
plied, this coat carded was off, and so on until the desired finish was
obtained.
Around the early part of the nineteenth century, a modified
browning process came into use that resulted in a blue-black finish.
This modified finish became known as blueing in the United States,
but the British prefer to continue with the name browning even
though the finish is black or blue-black.
The earliest blueing solutions consisted of a mixture of nitric
acid and hydrochloric acid with steel shavings or iron nails dissolved
in them. The process used in applying the solution to the gun metal
is generally known as the slow rust blueing process.
In general, the slow rust process consists of polishing the metal
parts to be blued to the desired lustre and then degreasing the parts
by boiling them in a solution of lime and water or lye and water.
Without touching the metal parts with bare hands or otherwise
letting them become contaminated, the metal is swabbed with the
blueing solution in long, even strokes until all parts are covered.
The metal is then allowed to stand and rust from six to twenty-four
hours. After this the rust is rubbed off with steel wool or a wire
brush to reveal a light grey or bluish color underneath.
The surface, still free from oil, is again swabbed with the so-
lution and allowed to rust another day. When this second coat of
rust is carded off, the metal beneath is an even darker shade of blue.
The process is repeated until the desired color is obtained, taking
anywhere from one to two weeks on the average, depending upon
the metal and the humidity in the air. The parts then are boiled in
water for about fifteen minutes, to stop further rusting action, and
oiled. The result is a beautiful, long-wearing metal finish.
The time required to obtain a perfect finish by the slow rusting
process forced gunsmiths and manufacturers to seek a faster and
easier process. The one developed has been called many names such
as 20-minute blue, express blue, but hot water blueing is generally
the accepted term.
Hot water blueing is based on the fact that steel, when heated,
rusts more rapidly than when cold. This is due to a more rapid
absorption of the oxygen that forms ferric oxide or red rust. There-
fore, new formulas were developed that reacted favorably on metal

that was polished, degreased, and then heated in boiling water. Once
Metal Refinishing 161

boiled for five or ten minutes, the metal parts are lifted from the
boiling water where they dry almost immediately due to the heat
of the steel. The blueing solution (often heated also) is applied to
the hot metal in long even strokes. Rust forms immediately on the
metal, but before carding, the parts are once again dunked into the
boiling water for another five minutes. The first carding should turn
the metal parts a light grey color, and each successive coat should
deepen the color until it is a deep, velvety, blue-black color. De-
pending upon the metal, it may take anywhere from four to twelve
coats to obtain the desired finish.
—
Other blueing methods were developed Nitre blueing, char-
coal —
blueing but the major development in gun blueing occurred
around the turn of the century when the black oxide process of
blueing was patented. This method requires that the parts be po-
lished in the conventional way, but instead of applying the solution
to the metal parts, the parts are dunked into a tank of the boiling
solution. Once in the tank, the blueing process is essentially a fifteen
to thirty minute process of boiling the parts in a strong alkaline
solution. The process works exceptionally well on a wide variety of
steel and is much more economical for mass production than any
other process. Another advantage of this method is that the number
of guns that can be blued at one time is limited only by the size of
the tank and the heating facility.
During the early part of the twentieth century, an instant or
cold blueing process became popular with do-it-yourselfers. The
trend is still popular today. The cold blueing solution is a mixture
of acids and copper nitrate. The copper nitrate forms a plating on
the metal and the acids turn the copper black the instant it touches
bare metal that has been degreased.
There are many kits on the market that contain everything
necessary to blue guns at home. If care is taken the result can look
quite pleasing. The main problem is durability. None of these cold
blueing solutions will hold up for any length of time, and eventually
the gun will be coated with red rust and no blue.
These cold blueing solutions do have a place, however, in every
— —
gun shop both hobbyist and professional for touch-up jobs. The
cold blueing solutions on the market will most definitely blacken
metal, if the metal is properly prepared. Of these solutions, Brow-
nell’s Oxpho-Blue seems to be the most durable, but the application
162 First Book of Gunsmithing

is a probably not the best choice for the beginner.

little tricky, so it is

Birchwood-Casey’s Perma-Blue Paste or G96 Gun Blue Creme are

better choices for a first attempt at touch-up gun blueing.

COLD BLUEING TECHNIQUES

Cold blueing chemicals will not blue case-hardened steel, stain-
less steel, aluminum, or other nonferrous metals. Case-hardened
steel can be readily detected by the mottled colors running through
the surface of the steel. If these colors have faded, the metal will
have a chrome appearance. Stainless-steel barrels are usually
marked like this. Aluminum or other nonferrous metals will not
react when touched with a magnet.
The chemicals used in cold blueing solutions are poisonous and
should be treated accordingly. Many of the chemicals will affect the
skin, so it is recommended that gloves be worn when using them.
Skin-tight surgical gloves, available from drug stores or medical
suppliers are ideal for cold blueing. They allow free movement and
feel, yet give adequate protection from harmful chemicals.

Q2UQ

KX cofltims the rtww:

• G 96 Gun 6lu« Cfwtw fN« m 2 5 Ol.)
. G-96 Ru« TrMimunt (2.S ^1. Cto.l

Cfiww & (2.S FI. WJ

. C 96
• C 96 Silicon* Gun «••»' Fotoftms
Oo»n
Con 8lu* Citmt Ajiplic«o»t
• M«t*l ci*««n«
Gnd Clo9>
SntlWooi
* W*piA9 Ck)^

POISON -f:
If CftllTAlWS fHi fOtlOWlkC

So CWtlWS ^

Fig. 12-1. A G96 Complete Gun Blue Kit contains everything needed to blue
firearms. The can of Spray Gun De-Greaser does not come with the kit, but
is an excellent choice for use with any cold blueing solution.
Metal Refiriishing 163

Agood choice for a cold blueing kit is one supplied by Jet-Aer

Corp. called G96 Complete Gun Blue Kit. This kit contains every-
thing needed for touch-up and complete reblueing jobs. Or if you
have abrasive paper and steel wool, you could purchase only their
Gun Blue Creme and G96 Spray Gun De-Greaser.
The area on most firearms that is commonly in need of touch-
up blueing is the muzzle on rifle barrels. The muzzle is also a good
place to start on a gun because it is not on the same plane as the
gun barrel and therefore will be easier to match with the existing
blue. Worn spots that are in the same plane with existing blue are
much more difficult to match.
The muzzle of a Winchester Model 70 rifle, figure 12—2, will be

used to demonstrate the blueing procedure. Note that the muzzle is

bright and shiny when compared to the rest of the barrel. This was
caused by the muzzle blast from the .270 Weatherby Magnum, the
cartridge for which the gun was rechambered. Continued firings
caused the blueing to wear off. If allowed to go unchecked, the metal
will rust and and eventually have to be recrowned.
pit
In this case, spray G96 Gun De-Greaser on the surface to remove
the oil and grease from the surface, and then wipe it completely dry
with a clean oil-free cloth. Use a piece of abrasive cloth to remove

Fig. 12-2. G96 Spray Gun De-Greaser being used to degrease the muzzle of
a Winchester Model 70 rifle prior to touching up the muzzle with cold blue.
164 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 12-3. A swab is used to apply the gun blue creme to the muzzle and the
metal immediately turns black.

rust and pits, and steel wool to shine the muzzle. For best results,
make the metal as bright as possible.
Again, spray the surface to be blued with Gun De-Greaser and
wipe it completely dry with a clean cloth. At this point, avoid touch-
ing the surface with bare hands as fingerprints will leave marks on
the surface when the blueing is applied. The surface must be com-
and grease.
pletely free of oil
Apply the blueing creme with the applicator swabs that come
with the kit or with clean gun patches. Work the creme into the
metal thoroughly to assure that
penetrates completely. In doing
it

so, an ingredient in the creme polishes the steel to produce a deeper,

richer blue finish. However, after the first application, polish the
metal surface with fine steel wool so that the fine polishing effect
of the Gun Blue Creme will be more effective. After this, no further
polishing is necessary.
Hold the muzzle under hot running water to heat the metal.
The water will also neutralize the action of the blueing solution. If
the metal is hot enough, the water will evaporate almost instantly
upon being removed from under the water. Wipe the surface to be
sure it is dry.
Reapply the G-96 Gun Blue Creme two or three times until the
Metal Refinishing 165

Fig. 12-4. The nonloading, open mesh of Gritcloth lets the removed particles
flow right through the silicon carbide charged mesh base rather than packing
on the surface and stopping cutting.

desired color achieved, which blends with the existing blue on the
is

firearm. After each application, neutralize the creme with water,

wipe dry, and reapply. Three coats produces the longest-lasting fin-
ish.

After the last application of the creme, neutralize the bluing

with water and wipe the firearm dry with the G-96 Silicone Gun
Cloth. For long-lasting protection, after handling the gun apply G-
96 Gun Treatment remove fingerprints and protect the metal
to

surface against dirt and moisture.

Other parts of the gun can be treated in the same way, except
that it is not advisable to hold the gun under the faucet as water
can collect in pockets and screw holes of the gun and cause rust to
form. Rather, wipe the surface with a wet rag, being careful not to
let water drip into metal pockets.
For badly rusted spots, use G-96 Rust Treatment prior to
blueing. Using steel wool, remove all loose rust and dirt and other

surface accumulations. If the surface is greasy, apply a coat of Gun

De-Greaser, then apply a coat of Rust Treatment using a clean cloth.
This solution contains acid, so wear gloves during the application
to protect your hands. If the rust is extremely heavy, repeat
the

applications as many times as necessary. After the chemical has

turned the rust to a grey powder, remove all traces of this powder
with a clean cloth, and once again clean with Gun De-Greaser before
applying blueing solution.
Rust Treatment will remove gun blueing along with the rust.
166 First Book of Gunsmithing

so be careful how you use it. I once accidently let some of it run
down a perfectly good barrel while trying to remove a small spot of
rust near the muzzle. All blueing was removed where the liquid ran,
and the entire barrel had to be reblued. Dab the swab into the
solution and then squeeze out the excess liquid by pressing it against
the inside of the bottle rim. To prevent running, apply several thin
coats rather than one heavy coat.
As mentioned previously, the cold or instant blueing method is
recommended only for touch-up jobs. In a pinch, it will produce a
nice-looking, complete blue job if correct procedures are followed
— proper polishing, removing and scratches from metal, de-
all pits
greasing, and applying the solution evenly. When completed and
oiled, the final result will appear quite similar to a factory hot-
caustic blueing job, especially immediately after the job is finished
and the metal surfaces are oiled. However, it has been my experience
that this appearance does not last as long as some of the other
methods.

HOT CAUSTIC BLUEING

The hot caustic blueing method is the one most often used in
professional gun shops. by far the fastest method to use, and
It is

uniform results are obtained with this method more often than with
any other. However the method does have its drawbacks for use by
the hobbyist with limited facilities. First of all the initial investment
forequipment is relatively high for the hobbyist who has only a few
guns to blue each year. Then the dangers of using the blueing so-
lution in the home are many. It will ruin floor tile, take
enamel off
the kitchen stove, eat through leather shoes and woolen clothing,
and cause blindness if it splashes in your eyes. It is a method better
left to the professional with adequate facilities.

SLOW RUSTING BLUEING

The slow rusting method is within the capabilities of almost
any amateur who is willing to put forth the effort, but results can
—
vary so much depending upon atmospheric conditions that the —
method often requires a steam cabinet to insure satisfactory results.
Here again, the investment for the cabinet and source of heat to
produce steam is a little too much to make the method worthwhile
for the hobbyist.
Metal Refinishing 167

HOT WATER BLUEING

the other hand, for a modest investment for the initial setup
On
and from 8 to 12 hours of hard work the home gunsmith can use the
hot water blueing method to obtain a rich, velvety, blue-black finish
that will surpass any factory job.
The basic technique for blueing firearms by the hot water
method was developed in the late 1800s when manufacturers and
gun makers started looking for a faster way to get attractive, du-
rable, rust-inhibiting finishes on their firearms. The hot water
method enabled the gunsmith to achieve a satisfactory blue-black

finishon firearms in only an hour or two which saved a great deal

of time over previous methods.
You might have a tough time finding a suitable solution, or
even having your own mixed, as most chemical companies no longer
stock Sweet Spirits of Nitre, the one ingredient that appears in
virtually all hot water blueing formulas. But there are still some
commercial solutions available*. Belgian Blueing Solution from
Herter’s Incorporated and Dicropan IM Blueing Solution from Brow-
nell can both be used in the hot water method of blueing, although
the Dicropan IM solution is really a cold, instant bluer.
Roy Dunlap reports that he has used the traditional blueing
formulas leaving out the Spirits of Nitre with the same results; it
just takes longer for the solution to bite the metal.
To mix your own, combine the following ingredients dry in a

clean, wide-mouthed, glass jar:

1/4 ounce Potassium Nitrate

1/4 ounce Sodium Nitrate
1/2 ounce Bichloride Mercury
1/2 ounce Potassium Chlorate
3/4 ounce 3% Nitric Acid in Grain Alcohol solution

Then heat 10 ounces of distilled water until warm (about 120

degrees Fahrenheit) and pour it slowly into the container holding

the mixed dry chemicals, stirring with a glass rod continually until
almost cool. Pour the entire solution into a dark brown, glass or
plastic bottle with a tight plastic cap. Keep the mixed solution in

a dark, cool place, the as you would to store photography

same
chemicals. Before each use, shake the bottle to mix the ingredients.

Basic Equipment
Only one tank is required for this method of blueing, but two
168 First Book of Gunsmithing

separate tanks will speed up the process a little. Put the degreasing
solution in one tank and boiling water, to bring the parts to the
required temperature to accept the blueing solution, in the other.
A third tank will help if you do not have a supply of running water
close by.
The source of heat could be the kitchen stove, but to keep peace
at home, you might be better off using a portable camp stove. Of
course, you are planning to do blueing professionally, the three-
if

tank blueing unit with pipe burners offered by Heatbath Corp. is

the ultimate setup.
Besides blueing tanks and a source of heat, the equipment
needed for the hot water blueing process is as follows:

Alkali Cleaner An alkali cleaner such as Dicron-Clean No. 909

is used to remove all grease, dirt, and buffing compound. It is added
to thewater and brought to a temperature of 180 to 200 degrees
Fahrenheit before submerging the parts to be cleaned.

Blueing Solution Use any of the commercial varieties or a

solution mixed from the formula mentioned in this chapter.

Glass Jar Used to hold the blueing solution for heating in the
blueing tank usually suspended by an iron wire in one corner of the
hot-water tank.

Swabs Used apply the blueing solution to the metal parts.

to
You can make your own by slitting small dowels at one end to hold
cotton cloth or cotton balls. Shop swabs sold by Brownell have large
wire-ring handles for ease of operation and are highly recommended
for this type of blueing.

Steel Wool Used for general carding (removing rust) of metal

surfaces. Most steel wool contains a coat of oil when
comes from it

the factory to prevent rusting. Make sure you remove this oil, by
burning or with a degreaser, before using it on the gun parts.

Brush Used for carding rust from hard-to-get-

Stainless -Steel
at places on guns or gun parts. Make sure the stainless-steel wire
is free from grease and oil before using.
Metal Re finishing 169

Carding Wheel A soft wire wheel with about .005-inch wire

is sometimes preferred for carding the rust during
the hot water

method of blueing to give the required soft wiping action. It should

be run at a speed of about 600 rpm for best results. A 1/4-inch drill
motor clamped to the workbench is about right for this process.
Touch the metal very lightly to the wheel or you may take off some
of the blue in the process.

Dremel Moto-Tool (optional) The Dremel Moto-Tool using wire

brushes is sometimes used for carding small recesses on the gun.
Three types of brushes are currently available.

Rubber Gloves Some of the oldergunsmithing books recom-

mend wearing white cotton gloves that have been thoroughly
washed to remove all oils for this blueing process. The purpose is
will ruin the
to prevent getting any body oils from the hands, which
blueing, onto the gun parts. Cotton gloves are okay for all steps
except carding, because they quickly become soiled in this process.
Rubber gloves are better since clean rubber gloves not only protect
the gun surface, they also offer better protection to your hands from
the blueing chemicals and the hot gun parts after they are removed
from the water. Should rubber gloves become soiled during the card-
ing process, merely dip them into the hot cleaning solution for a
few
seconds.

Polishing
Before the blueing solution can be applied to the metal, the
surface of the metal must be stripped of its old finish and polished.
The quality of this polishing job will determine the quality of the
final finish. poor polishing job will result in a poor blueing job;
A
those pits and scratches in the metal before blueing will show up
even more after the gun is blued.
Professional shops often utilize power buffers for polishing pro-
duction blueing jobs, but most hobbyists will have to do the polishing
by hand. So much the better, only with hand polishing can all con-
tours, lettering, markings, and square edges be insured
against pres-

ervation. Roy Dunlap points out in Gunsmithing (Stackpole

Books)
one,
that a hand-polished gun looks better than a power-polished
since corners and angles can be maintained with no loss
of outline.
170 First Book of Gunsmithing

The surprising fact is that an excellent final finish can be obtained

on metal polished by hand, while metal polished by power will not
turn out as well. But be prepared for a lot of hard work. It will take
from six to eight hours to properly hand polish a bolt-action rifle;
longer for a pump, autoloader, or double-barreled shotgun.
The first step is to disassemble the gun completely, down to the
last screw and drift pin. Wipe the parts clean and examine each one
to check for wear and no aluminum alloy parts are
to insure that
present. This can easily be determined by using a small magnet. If
the magnet does not react, the part is nonferrous; that is, aluminum,
brass, or similar alloy. These parts, which consist of springs and
other small elements not visible in an assembled gun, should be set
aside with others not to be blued.
After the pieces to be blued are in one pile, thoroughly clean
all

each one with a solvent such as acetone AWA

1-1-1, the safer sub-
stitute for carbon tetrachloride. The parts are now ready for polish-
ing after obtaining the following items.
A 10-inch mill bastard file and file card are needed to remove
rust pits, nicks, or scratches that are too deep for the abrasive paper
to remove. Otherwise, these two items can be eliminated. Purchase
three sheets each of the following grits of open-coat, aluminum oxide
abrasive paper: 80 grit; 150 grit; 240 grit; 320 grit.
To get a master polishing job, also obtain three sheets each of
400-grit and 500-grit, silicon, wet-dry paper for the final polishing.
In recent years, many professionals who do hand polishing on
firearms have begun using a relatively new type of abrasive paper
called Gritcloth. This abrasive cloth will cut the time required to
hand polish a gun and claims to do it better than any other hand
method known. Gritcloth is composed of thousands of particles of
abrasive which keep cutting up to fifteen times longer than any
other abrasive cloth. The nonloading open mesh allows the removed
through the silicon-carbide-charged mesh base
particles to flow right
of Gritcloth rather than packing on the surface and impeding cut-
ting. Because of the open mesh, it cuts many times faster than
conventional abrasive paper.
The cost of Gritcloth
higher than other types of abrasive cloth,
is

but due to the cloth’s exceptionally long life, it is probably less

expensive in the long run. Grits available are #100, #150, #240,
#400, and #600.
Metal Refinishing 171

With the materials at hand, start with the barrel or the bar-
all

reled action and clamp this assembly in a padded vise. Take care,
however, not to "clamp down” too hard and damage the gun parts.
Clamp the part so that the most surface is exposed, but yet tight
enough to hold.
Use the 10-inch mill bastard file to smooth out deep rust pits,
nicks, scratches, and all metal surfaces.
With the file in the left hand and the tip in the right hand,
position the file at the most distant point on the barrel and draw
the file smoothly toward you. Use enough pressure to smooth the
metal surface without scratching it. The amount of pressure you use
on the file is very important; too little will scratch the metal, while
too much will clog the file and cause scratches. At the end of each
stroke, lift thefrom the metal and sort of arc it back to its
file

starting position; then again use pressure and draw the file toward
you. Repeat this procedure until all pits and scratches are removed.
The barrel is now ready for cross-polishing to remove the many
flats that will be left after draw filing. With a pair of scissors or a

bench knife, cut a strip of 80-grit abrasive paper about 1 V2 -inches

wide, cut the long way, and polish (fig. 12-5). Go at the metal as

Fig. 12-5. Cross-polishing is done much the same way as shoe polishing.
172 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 12-6. Draw polishing isdone after cross-polishing. This technique

should be continued until all cross-polishing marks from the previous oper-
ation are removed.

though you were shining a pair of shoes. The first few strokes will
reveal the flats left by the draw filing. Continue this operation over
the entire length of the barrel with the 80-grit paper until all of the
flats disappear and the barrel looks like it has just been turned down

in a metal-turning lathe. You might have to use several pieces of

the abrasive paper to achieve this polished condition.
Cut aV 2 -inch strip of the 150-grit paper and fold it as shown
1

in Figure 12-7. With the open edges in the direction of the axis of
the bore, start polishing the barrel lengthwise. Continue polishing
in this manner until all cross-polishing marks from the previous
operation are removed.
These procedures should be repeated alternately, using
progressively finer grits (higher numbers) until the final draw is
completed with the 500-grit silicon set-dry paper. To review, the
—
technique is: 80 grit cross-polish; 150 grit draw polish; 240—
grit —
cross-polish; 320 grit — —
draw polish; 400 grit cross-polish; 500
—
draw polish. With the 400- and 500-grit papers, apply a drop
of oil to the paper before using. Make sure that all polishing marks
are removed before proceeding to the next finer grade of paper.
Fig. 12-7. Special sanding blocks are available for hard-to-reach areas.

Once the barrel has been polished, its position in the vise should
be reversed. Then polish the receiver in a similar manner, but make
certain that the newly polished areas are well protected from the
vise jaws. Heavy leather padding offers good protection. Then con-
tinue with the trigger guard, trigger, floor plate, and other parts.
Most of the smaller parts, however, due to their shape, will be most
adaptable to cross-polishing all the way, and not lengthwise polish-
ing as was done on the barrel. Just be sure that all polishing marks
from the previous grit size are completely removed before using a
flner grit size. Protect the newly polished surfaces from rusting
with
a light coat of oil until you are ready to apply the blueing solution.

Screw heads are best polished by securing them in a screw

holder (flg. 12-8) and using a power buffing wheel with different
size grits for polishing. If a buffing wheel is not available,
insert the

screw in the chuck of a V4 -inch electric drill held in a vise and,

while the screw is rotating, run a file over the screw head. Complete
the polishing this way with the various grit sizes of abrasive paper.
The gun is now ready for blueing.
The Blueing Process
For getting into hard-to-reach places, like beside the rib on a
shotgun barrel, the work can be made easier by using sanding blocks
specially shaped for the area. There are several types, including
block, contoured, and knife-edge — the latter being specially suited
for along barrel ribs.

Many Winchester Model 12 shot-

actions, like the receiver of
guns, should be sanded with a perfectly flat backing block to insure
that the corners and edges remain square and to prevent tunneling
of screw holes. Rounding of the corners on such a firearm will lower
its value considerably.
Once all the parts are polished, begin heating up your tanks.
If theregoing to be a delay between the polishing and the blueing,
is

certain precautions must be taken. A freshly polished gun is a prime

target for surface rust. A
break of a few days, or even a few hours
under some conditions, between final polishing and blueing can re-
showing up on the gun after it has been
sult in fine "silver” spots
blued. These are caused by microscopic rust spots that develop while
the gun is being held following polishing. High-powered rust pre-
ventatives should not be used during this storage period because
Metal Refinishing 175

they are difficult to remove and they are not completely cleaned
if

off prior to blueing, they will result in a botched-up blueing job.

Brownell’s HOLD is the modern answer to in-shop storage of
guns and parts following polishing, grinding, or milling. It chemi-
cally engages free oxygen and neutralizes all acidic impurities, in-
cluding fingerprint acids.) No petroleum additives are included so
oily surfaces are not a problem. Therefore, polished, HOLD-treated
parts may be put directly into the cleaning tank with no change in
the regular hot water blueing tank technique.
Once the parts have been enough water into one
polished, pour
of the tanks to completely cover the gun and all its parts. Add an
—
appropriate amount of cleaning solution Dicro-Clean No. 909 or
1 tablespoon of household lye to 2 V2 gallons of soft water. (If you

do not have rainwater, use distilled water which can be purchased

at any drug store.) Then suspend the gun and gun parts by black
iron stovepipe wires, making sure that all parts are at least 1 inch
away from the bottom and sides of the tank and sides. Otherwise
hot spots and blotchy blueing will result. Small parts can be indi-
vidually suspended by black iron wires or else placed in a black iron
or stainless-steel basket which is then suspended in the tank. Let
the parts "cook” in the cleaning solution for about 15 minutes.
While the parts are being cleaned in the alkali cleaner, heat a
tank of clean rainwater or distilled water. Suspend the clean jar
containing the blueing solution in one corner of the tank, so that
part of the jar is underwater. This will heat the blueing solution.
Be careful not to let any of the water in the blueing tank splash into
the jar and weaken or contaminate the blueing solution.
After the cleaning period is completed, remove the parts from the
cleaning tank and quickly transfer them to the rinse tank, contain-
ing clean, cold rainwater or distilled water, and then immediately
into the hot water tank. The water must be kept at a hard, roll-

ing, bubbling boil from here on out to obtain the best results.
Let the parts boil for a full 15 minutes the first time to insure
an even heat throughout, and then lift them out of the water using
the wires as handles. The parts should dry immediately if they are
hot enough. If not, put them back into the boiling water for a slightly
longer period. not worry about getting the parts too hot; the only
Do
danger is not getting them hot enough. When the parts are hot
enough, remove them one at a time. Set the first part on clean V”-
'
Fig. 12-9. Apply the blueing solution in long, even strokes.

blocks or clean paper, or suspend it in midair with wire. Then, as

quickly as possible, before the part cools too much, dampen a swab
with hot blueing solution by dipping it into the suspended jar. Do
not "load” the swab, just dampen it. Apply the solution in long even
strokes. When all metal surfaces are covered with the solution, hang
the part up to dry. The parts should be so hot that the solution dries
immediately, leaving a light grayish-brown coat on the parts. Re-
move another part from the boiling water and give an even coat
it

of the solution. Continue this until all parts have been coated with
the hot blueing solution, and all parts are drying.
After all parts have been coated, return them to the boiling
water for about five minutes. Again remove them one part at a time
and swab more of the solution onto the hot metal surfaces. Return
the parts to the hot water tank after the solution has dried.
Following the second application, you will see a darker coat of
gray, flecked with rust, forming on the metal. Now, before returning
Metal Refinishing 177

Fig. 12-10. A wire wheel can help speed up the process of carding parts
when using the hot water method of blueing.

the parts to the hot water tank, rub them with 00 steel wool to
remove the rust particles. Do not rub the parts too vigorously as this
may remove the thin coat of light grayish-brown blue.
After carding all parts, return them to the boiling water for
another five or six minutes and repeat the swabbing, drying, and
boiling steps. As you put on more coats of the bluer, the brown or
grayish-brown blue gradually will turn to a rich velvety blue black.
This may require as few as four coats or as many as ten or twelve
or more, depending on the type of steel being blued.
Keep repeating these steps until the gun parts reach the desired
shade of blue-black.
After the last coat of bluer has dried on the parts and has been
removed with steel wool, wire wheel, and/or stainless-steel brush
(for tight places), place the parts in the boiling water once more and
178 First Book of Gunsmithing

boil them thoroughly about fifteen minutes to stop all rusting.

for

The parts will dry almost immediately upon being lifted from the
water. When cool, oil all parts or boil them in a water-displacing

Remember, heat only oil specifically designed

oil. for this purpose;

most oils will ignite and cause damage if heated.

 Chapter

Common Malfunctions

FIREARMS OF RECENT manufacture that have been taken care

of will normally last a lifetime. However, any gun that is used
frequently will eventually develop a malfunction, requiring the re-
pair or replacement of a part before it will again operate properly.
For example, firing pins and trigger springs, due to continuous
compression, will eventually weaken and either break or become
too weak to function properly; these will
then have to be replaced.
Bearing parts will become worn or develop burrs and will either
have to be reworked or replaced. The finishes on both wood and
metal parts will become worn and will need refinishing. These are
just a few.
Diagnosing malfunctions in firearms may seem like a difficult
task to the beginner, but all professional gunsmiths will tell you
some experience, trouble-shooting becomes second nature.
that after
Just remember, before a problem can be corrected, you have got to

179
180 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 13-1 . The first step in troubleshooting a firearm should be visual in-
spection using a bore light.

find the cause of the problem and then come up with a definite plan
of action for repair.
A careful visual inspection along with operating the gun’s action
will often reveal a common malfunction and enable the gunsmith
to solve the problem Other problems, however, will
in quick order.
require that the gun be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and a
careful visual inspection of each part be made to determine the
problem. But before you start tearing a firearm apart, first use a
good bore light and carefully examine all the areas you can reach
without disassembling the firearm. For example, check the chamber
for rough spots and for possible deformation of the extractor slots
cut in the barrel; check the firing pin for wear or breaks, especially
notice any grime or other foreign matter is in the working mech-
if

anism that might prevent the gun from functioning properly (this
is the main cause of many feeding problems). In fact, a thorough
cleaning will often correct a problem without further action.
Firearm manufacturers often furnish troubleshooting charts as
well as disassembly instructions with the guns they sell. There are
also several books on the market that give hints how to troubleshoot

firearms. While all of this material is useful,can never be com-

it

plete, as there are just too many variations and solutions for a given
Fig. 13-2. no immediate defects are apparent from the
If initial inspection,
disassemble the gun for a more thorough examination.

problem. The best procedure is to learn how all types of firearms

operate, including the function of individual parts. Then when one
of these parts or group of parts is not performing its job, you’ll know
to start looking in that direction.
One ways to learn operating principles of firearms
of the best
is to disassemble and assemble actions of all types. Don’t start out

on a valuable firearm as a beginner can damage a firearm beyond

repair just by disassembling it if he doesn’t know what he’s doing.
Rather, obtain an old rusted single-barrel, break open shotgun for
example that is ready for the junk pile and start on this. It is probably
in need of repair anyway.
Start by moving the lever you happen to have
to the right (if
this type). You will notice that the barrel unlocks from the receiver.
But why? There’s no magic involved. When the lever is moved,
something mechanical must move to unlock the barrel from the
receiver. While the barrel is open, look down into the receiver and
move the top lever again. You will notice a metal block move either
back and forth, or up and down. This is called the locking bolt and
is kept in a forward or up position by a locking bolt spring. When
182 First Book of Gunsmithing

the barrel is closed, the locking bolt locks into the barrel hump and
iskept in place by the locking bolt spring.
If you get a bore light and shine it into the receiver
(with the

barrel open) you will probably notice that a rod is connected to the
locking bolt, usually entering from the side. This connecting rod
connects the locking bolt with the top lever yoke so that when you
push the top lever to the right, the rod pulls the locking bolt to the
rear, compressing the locking bolt spring and in turn, unlocking the
barrel.
When you push the top lever to the right, you should feel some
resistance caused by the locking bolt spring. If you feel no resistance,
the first assumption is that the spring is broken. If the barrel does
not unlock at the same time, the connecting rod is either broken or

has come loose.

Continue your inspection of the shotgun until you know the
purpose of each part and also its relationship to the other parts.
When you have completed this inspection, you should be in good
shape to diagnose any problem that might develop in this type of
shotgun. You should then examine as many different guns as you
can get your hands on and try to determine how each functions. You
do not necessarily have to disassemble them; many of the operating
parts can be seen without doing so.
The above examples are just a few of the many problems that
can occur in firearms. Knowing how various types operate will help
tremendously in solving problems that may occur.

Fig. 13-3. Muzzle-crowning balls are useful for repairing damaged muzzles
on rifles or pistol barrels.
Common Malfunctions 183

DAMAGED MUZZLES
Every so often you will find a rifle that is not accurate. There
could be several reasons for this problem: worn rifling or poor wood-
to-metal fit, for instance. But before looking at all these possible
causes, first look at the muzzle. Chances are the rifling at the
muzzle has become damaged from striking it against a hard
object — burring the muzzle.
such a problem exists, your best bet is to rush the gun to your
If

nearest gunsmith and have him recrown the barrel on his metal-
turning lathe, cutting the barrel back about 1/8”. However, you
might want crowning the rifle yourself. Just be sure not to
to try
take off too much metal so that your local professional will have
some stock to work with in case you botch the job. Complete instruc-
tions for barrel crowning are given in a later chapter.

LEVER-ACTION MALFUNCTIONS
The most common problem that occurs with Marlin and Win-
chester rifles, both centerfire and rim fire, is looseness caused by

Fig. 13-4. The carrier latch on the Remington Model 1 100 is activated by the
head of the shell as it leaves the magazine. A weak magazine spring will cause
feeding problems.
184 First Book of Gunsmithing

wear of moving parts or continual shooting of high-pressure car-

tridges. Original round holes in parts will become egg-shaped, mor-
tises in the receiver will become worn, and metal will be shed
from
mating surfaces. Any of these can lead to malfunctions and an unsafe
firearm.
Feeding problems are often encountered that are caused by
dented, dirty, or corroded magazine tubes and/or weak magazine
springs. Recesses in the receivers of lever-action rifles are prone to
and foreign matter which, when combined
collect all sorts of debris
with gun oil and grease, cake and gum up the action, causing feeding,
extraction, and ejection problems.
The third most common problem in the older lever-actions is
excessive head space. These rifles lock up at the rear of the sliding
breech bolt. After much firing, stretching will occur which causes
excessive head space.

BOLT-ACTION RIFLES
Bolt-action rifles seldom give trouble, even when misused, but
occasionally a problem will develop that requires the attention of
a gunsmith. Some of the more common problems include poor ac-

curacy, binding of the breech bolt, feeding problems, misfiring, de-

fective safety, and failure to extract and eject.
Chapter 14 shows ways to improve the accuracy of a firearm.
Binding of the breech bolt can be caused by burrs on the action
mating surfaces, or the bolt may be fitted too tightly in the receiver.
The most probable cause of feeding problems is a tight extractor,
but any adjustments to the extractor must be done with care. Take
off only one or two files strokes at a time, and then try it for fit. Too
much filing can cause additional malfunctions.
Misfiring can be caused by defective ammunition, debris in the
firing-pin channel, a weak or broken firing pin spring, or a worn or

broken firing pin. Excessive head space can also cause misfiring. A
good cleaning of the bolt will normally solve the problem, but replace
or repair all worn or broken parts.
Most center-fire cartridge cases swell when fired, and if the
chamber is have a tendency to stick.
dirty or pitted, the case will
When this sticking occurs, a worn extractor hook can slip over the
case head or rim when the bolt is withdrawn, leaving the fired case
in the chamber. Sometimes, if the wear is not too bad, the problem
 Common Malfunctions 185

can be corrected by honing the extractor hook angle to sharpen it.

In doing so, however, be careful not to remove too much metal.
Proceed on a trial-and-error basis until the extractor functions prop-
erly. Also check the extractor ring for tension and adjust it to acquire
the proper bite.
When a rifle fails to eject a cartridge, chances are the ejector
is binding in its cut in the receiver; the cut may be too narrow or
the ejector may be bent. A binding ejector spring may not be func-
tioning properly, or the slot for the ejector in the bolt may not be
in line with the See that the parts are free and functioning
ejector.
properly or replace as needed.

PUMP ACTIONS
Malfunctions in pump and shotguns are second in fre-
rifles
quency only to semiautomatics. The biggest cause of problems in
pump actions is the presence of dirt, dust, and assorted debris that,
when combined with gun oil and grease, prevent proper operation.
Therefore, at the first sign of any malfunction, strip the gun down
to its basic action parts and degrease, unless, of course, obvious
symptoms dictate otherwise. Follow the cleaning procedures found
in chapter 3. Other problems found in pump rifles are a failure to
feed properly, double-feeding, failure to retain cartridges in the
magazine, sticking action bars, action fails to lock, failure to extract
and eject, failure to fire, failure to cock, firing on closing the action,
and malfunctioning.

SEMIAUTOMATIC FIREARMS
Semiautomatic guns are becoming popular among shooters and
hunters and are outselling most other types two to one. This type
of action will also malfunction two
one over any other types, but
to
in most cases, a thorough cleaning will correct the problem. Table

2 gives solutions to other common malfunctions in semiautomatic

rifles and shotguns.

SINGLE-SHOT, BREAK-OPEN SHOTGUNS

Most problems that occur in break-open shotguns will be due
to worn-out parts caused by general misuse of the gun and continual
firing of high-brass shot shells in the older models.
186 First Book of Gunsmithing

Table 2
COMMON MALFUNCTIONS IN SEMIAUTOMATIC RIFLES
AND SHOTGUNS
Probable Cause Corrective Action
Malfunction

Broken or worn firing pin Replace

Fails to fire
Broken or jammed extractor Replace
Fails to extract
Weak or worn ejector Replace
Fails to eject
Weak or broken ejector
spring
Distorted magazine Replace
Feeding problems

Besides loose actions, the two most frequent problems occurring

with this type gun are broken trigger springs and broken or
weak
detected by
locking bolt springs. A broken trigger spring is easily
the action of the trigger. If the trigger does not spring back
after it

is pulled, the problem is usually caused by

a broken trigger spring.

Of course, if a gun looks dirty, clean it before starting your diagnosis.

To replace the trigger spring, remove the butt stock; then using
a ratchet screwdriver unscrew the trigger spring screw
which is
located on the bottom of the receiver tang on most guns of this
type.

Replace with a new spring and retighten the screw.

The locking-bolt spring in most single-barrel shotguns can be
reached through the front of the receiver. Remove the forearm, break
the gun open, remove the barrel, and you might be able to reach
it.

On some guns, however, you will have to remove some of the interior
parts of the receiver in order to get at the locking bolt spring
and
its screw.
A worn or broken firing pin is another common problem with
many older shotguns. The pin is easily replaced by removing the
firing-pin stop screw and slipping the firing pin and spring out of
its channel. Replace with a new one in the reverse order.

DOUBLE-ACTION REVOLVERS
The mechanisms more complex
of double-action revolvers are
than either single-action or semiautomatic handguns, and require
a high degree of skill to repair and adjust them. However,
many of
the problems that develop can be corrected by a thorough cleaning.
Common Malfunctions 187

This preliminary cleaning and inspection should be followed by a

complete disassembly of the revolver and an inspection for wear,
damage, or missing Problems to look for include a misaligned
parts.
cylinder, incorrect timing, a broken or weak spring, a bent ejector
rod, an improperly fitted cylinder latch, failure of the cylinder
to
lock, worn locking slots in the cylinder, and skipping.

SEMIAUTOMATIC HANDGUNS
As with other firearms, a good cleaning will usually put an
ailing semiautomatic pistol back into shooting condition, although
other problems do develop that will require a good knowledge of
troubleshooting. Such problems include failure to feed, extract, and
eject. Poor accuracy may also occur in a firearm that is worn or in
need of repair.
would take several volumes to come anywhere near a complete
It

reference source for troubleshooting. For a better understanding of

detecting and correcting problems that develop in firearms of all
kinds, buy a copy of Learn Gunsmithing: The Troubleshooting
Method, available from Winchester Press, P.O. Box 1260, Tulsa, OK
74101. This book gives solutions to many malfunctions that com-
monly occur on every type of firearm manufactured.
'W "(Mf
 Chapter 1

Improving Accuracy

A CENTER-FIRE OR rim-fire rifle must be able to obtain a certain

degree of accuracy to be useful; the degree of accuracy will depend
upon what the intended use of the rifle will be. For example, a rifle
used to hunt deer and black bear in the eastern United States should
group its rounds within a 2-inch circle at 100 yards. For longer
range shooting, as encountered when hunting game in the western
states, a rifle should group its rounds within 1 inch at the same
range. However, rifles with these capabilities are also useful for
competitive bench-rest shooting.
The bolt-action rifle, with one-piece stock, is considered to be
the most accurate rifle ever made, while lever-actions, with two-
piece stocks, are the least accurate. However, when any rifle does
not group within its capabilities, something is wrong. With old rifles
or ones that have been used heavily, it is likely that the rifling is
shot out or pitted so badly that accurate shooting will be difficult;

189
190 First Book of Gunsmithing

or perhaps metal fouling is the culprit. The only way to be certain

what the problem is is to check the bore thoroughly with a bore
light.
In the case of bolt-action rifles, check the stock after inspecting
the bore. If the stock is warped and the barrel does not line up
properly in the barrel channel, coat the bottom of the barrel with
Prussian blue or inletting black, applied in a thin, even coat. Then
insert the barrel carefully into the barrel channel of the stock; any
high spots or interference in the barrel channel will be clearly
marked. Scrape away any high spots, and repeat the trial until no
marks appear on the wood. Of course, if the stock is too badly warped,

itshould be replaced.
In most cases, the barrel of bolt-action rifles should bear on the
bottom of the barrel channel only at the fore-end tip. This bearing
point can be from a point of contact up to about 1/2-inch. Glazed
spots in the barrel channel indicate barrel contact with the wood.
Again, Prussian blue or inletting black coated on the barrel shows
these spots readily. Any interference points should be scraped away
using inletting tools. Note particularly the area around the point
where the barrel joins the receiver.

BORE PROBLEMS
When metal fouling is evident, try using J-B Bore Cleaner first.

Another metal fouling solution has been around for a long time, but
is not recommended to the hobbyist because many amateurs have
ruined the finish on their firearm by spilling the solution on the
gun. For those who want to try it anyway here are the ingredients:

1 ammonium persulphate
ounce
200 grams ammonium carbonate
6 ounces stronger ammonia
4 ounces distilled water

Follow the directions carefully, and be extremely careful. Mix the

ingredients in a large glass bottle and let it stand. Then carefully

plug the chamber end of the with a rubber, plastic, or cork plug.
rifle

Secure the barrel and action in a well-padded vise with the barrel
pointing upward and the butt on the floor. Insert a plastic funnel
into the muzzle end of the bore and carefully pour the solution into
—
the barrel until it is just about full not quite to the funnel spout.
 Improving Accuracy 191

Again, be careful not to get any of the solution on the outside of the
barrel. Allow the solution to remain in the bore about thirty minutes,
and metal fouling should be removed. Then pour all of the so-
all

lution out— again being careful not to spill any— and rinse the barrel
thoroughly with hot water. The hotter the water the better; the
barrel should dry almost instantly. When dry, lightly oil the bore
to protect it from rust.
A
bore that shows signs of pitting can be restored somewhat by
lapping. This operation is usually considered a little advanced for
the beginner, but it can be done if care is taken.
Use a steel rod in the barrel that is slightly smaller
than the
bore diameter and notched lengthwise and crosswise at one end. A
steel cleaning rod with swivel handle is ideal. The end opposite the
notching should be set in a cross-handle with a ball bearing to allow
the rod to turn freely and follow the twist of the rifling as it is pushed
through the bore.
First clean the barrel of all foreign matter, including metal
fouling. Then apply a film of light gun oil.
Wrap cotton string tightly around the notched end of the rod,
which is fluxed at the tip with solder flux. Push the rod through the
barrel from the breech end until it is within an inch of the muzzle.
The cotton string should fit the bore snugly. Heat the first few inches
of the muzzle to a medium temperature; but not high enough to color
the blueing. Then pour molten lead into the barrel, filling about the
first three inches of the barrel, which is the distance from the cotton
string to the rod tip. When push the lead a short distance out
cool,
of the muzzle, but not all the way, to be trimmed.
Coat this lead slug, known as the lap, with oil and carefully
push it a couple of inches out of the muzzle, leaving about one inch
in the bore. Oil the lap again, then apply an abrasive compound,
such as that offered by Clover. Rottenstone will work also. Work the
lap back and forth through the bore from ten to perhaps thirty times,
recoating with more abrasive after every ten cycles. Push the lap
through the bore with steady tension until the barrel has the same
feel for the entire length. Then, remove the lap and clean it with

solvent. Now, measure (or slug) the barrel to see what the bore and
groove diameter. You can then cast lead bullets to exactly fit the
resulting diameters.
Lapping a rifle barrel is not as easy as it sounds. In fact, most
192 First Book of Gunsmithing

gun ownsrs prefer to leave the job to professional gunsmiths. If you

do try this operation, practice on an old discarded barrel first to get
the feel before attempting the operation on a good barrel. It is pos-
sible to polish the barrel oversize and make the accuracy worse than
it was to start with.

CROWNING THE BARREL

Earlier in this book was mentioned that a damaged barrel
it

muzzle can affect accuracy, and the only solution was to cut the
muzzle back a bit and recrown the barrel. Crowning serves two
purposes. If offers a certain amount of metal between the very end
of the barrel and the rifling, which serves to protect the rifling. The
second and most important purpose, however, is to insure that the
end of the bore is absolutely true and square. Unless the end of the
barrel true with the bore, a jet of propellent gas will escape from
is

one side of the bullet first, tipping the bullet as its base merges from
the bore.

Fig. 14-1. a lathe is available, Brownell’s Muzzle Crowning Bit used in the
If
lathe is the best and quickest way to crown a muzzle.
Improving Accuracy 193

A professional gunsmith uses a lathe to true and crown a rifle

muzzle as this is the fastest and easiest way to go about it. In fact,
nearly every rifle that goes into a shop for reblueing also has its
muzzle crowned. The gunsmith normally uses a spinning fixture to
spin the barrel during polishing, the tips of this spinning fixture
usually mar the muzzle slightly. So after the polishing is completed,
the barrel chucked in the lathe and a new crown cut.
is

The hobbyist can duplicate a professional-looking crowning job

—
with simple hand tools a hacksaw, a hand drill, masking tape, a
rotary file, and a brass crown ball. I also like to use a roller pipe
cutter to true the barrel if I am cutting off enough to allow the tool
to clamp onto the barrel. If there is not enough barrel beyond the
cut to clamp the pipe cutting tool, I merely eyeball it. It is very
difficult to cut a true cut with a hacksaw anyway.
Cut the barrel back about Va inch to V4 inch, depending upon
the depth of the defect in the muzzle. Try to make this cut as true

Fig. 14-2. A pipe cutter is used to score the barrel prior to cutting.
194 First Book of Gunsmithing

Fig. 14-3. The barrel is cut with a hacksaw as square as possible.

Improving Accuracy 195

Fig. 14-4. Rough edges from the saw cut can be smoothed up with a file.

as possible, but don’t worry if you are off a mite; that can be taken
care of in the next step.
Secure the barrel in a bench vise so the muzzle is pointing
upward (in a vertical position) and use a mill file to true the muzzle
as near as possible. Check your work often with a try square, a basic
measuring tool available at any hardware store.
Chuck the rotary file in your hand drill. Turn the hand crank
of the drill to rotate the file, while at the same time moving the
handle of the drill in a circular motion. This double motion on the
rotary file will prevent scoring and will result in a perfect cut. Re-
place the rotary file with a brass ball, coating it with Clover or other
196 First Book of Gunsmithing

lapping compound. Lap the muzzle until marks from the rotary
all

file are smoothed out. Use exactly the same motion with the hand
drill as you did when cutting the muzzle with the rotary file. If care
is taken, you will have a perfect crowned muzzle.

RECOIL-REDUCING DEVICES
It is diffiult for the beginner (and some seasoned professionals)
to obtain Minute of Angle groups with heavy recoil rifles, like some
of the large-belted magnums. When each shot from one of these
magnums rattles the shooter’s teeth, it is not conducive to steady
trigger squeezing!
One solution to the heavy recoil problem is to install a muzzle
brake, a slotted tube that is attached to the muzzle of a rifle to trap
escaping gases and use them as a counter-recoil force, thereby re-
ducing recoil and, to some At one time, these
extent, muzzle jump.
devices were readily available and required the muzzle of the rifle
be threaded on a lathe to accept the threads of the muzzle brake.
The brake was then retained in position by friction between the
brake and a matching shoulder on the barrel.
In recent years, muzzle-recoil reducers are being installed di-
rectly into the existing muzzle. Ports are drilled into the muzzle to
allow some of the gas to escape before it reaches the muzzle. The
counter-recoil force of the escaping gases tends to reduce the ap-
parent recoil. This type of muzzle brake is, however, strictly for the
experienced specialist, not for the beginner.
A better choice for the beginner is one of the recoil
to install
reducers that fit in the stock, forearm, or magazine. This, in most
cases, requires only the removal of some wood from the stock to
install. The three most popular models available are Flinch-X Recoil

Buffers for shotguns and rifles; Hiram’s "Bear Trap” Hydraulic Re-
coil Reducer, and C & H Research Mercury Recoil Suppressor. All

of these give the same results although each operates in a slightly

different manner.
The Flinch-X reduces recoil, stops muzzle bounce and weighs
only 7 % ounces. It is easily installed in the butt stock and some
shooters put one in the forearm also for even greater reduction of
works on pneumatic action.
recoil. It

Hiram’s "Bear Trap” is a hydraulic-cushioned recoil reducer

designed to effectively tame recoil while the C «& H model uses
Improving Accuracy 197

mercury, one of the heaviest elements, to suppress recoil. The mov-

ing mercury provides the greatest amount of movable weight to
counteract recoil. Both of these models are installed in the butt stock
by drilling a hole the required depth using a spud point wood drill.
The C & H design also has models that fit in shotgun magazines.
They are used to replace the magazine plug, reducing recoil at the
same time.
Another factor that will eliminate "felt” recoil is good stock
design. The little "thutty-thutty” can kick the dickens out of shooters
when the stock does not fit and is not shaped correctly. On the other
hand, rifles chambered for the .458 Winchester magnum can be
found that were fitted with a good, straight stock design that are
not at all unpleasant to fire.

STOCK BEDDING
Probably the most noticeable single factor contributing to good
accuracy is stock bedding; that is, the metal-to-wood fit. For the best
accuracy, the rear and bottom surfaces of the recoil lug must fit

exactly into the stock, guard screws must be kept tight, and the
receiver must fit tightly to eliminate any motion in the stock upon
firing. The master stock maker can fit the metal to wood so that the

best accuracy can be expected from the rifle, but the work is costly.
The amateur cannot do as well, since years of experience are re-
quired to obtain perfect results. Glass bedding is recommended for
the beginner. This synthetic resin material molds to a perfect fit and
is very tough. There are several kits on the market, but the only
one that I have tried has been the Brownell Acraglas^ kit. This
worked so well that it was unnecessary
any others. The kit
to try
can be used for bedding in new stocks, repairing broken stocks, and
filling gouges or deep dents in stocks, but its most important use is

to make a rifle shoot more accurately.

When using Acraglas for inletting allow a V,6 to V^-inch clear-
ance in the barrel channel and behind the recoil lug. Leave the wood
rather rough as this will add strength by creating more exposed
wood surface for the Acraglas to come in contact with. Prepare the
metal surfaces so you can disassemble the ride once bedded. Without
a release agent, a sledge hammer is the only hope for getting the
barrel and action out of the stock. A release agent comes with the
198 First Book of Gunsmithing

kit; use this agent on all metal surfaces that might come in contact
with the Acraglas. Apply two coats.
Any recesses in the metal should be filled with putty or modeling
clay to prevent them filling with Acraglas during the bedding op-
eration. Smooth these fills so they are flush with surrounding sur-
faces and then cover with waterproof tape such as Scotch No. 88
Electrical Tape. Apply the release agent over the tape. Apply a thin
coat of gun grease or paste wax over the guard screws after the
release agent has dried. Be sure that the release agent is thoroughly
dry before starting the bedding job. When the bedding job is finished,
the release agent can be removed from both gun and glass bedding
with warm water.
Mix the bedding compound according to instructions that come
with the Using a paddle, spread the prepared Acraglas in a ridge
kit.

down the center of the barrel channel to prevent air from being
trapped when the barrel is seated. Also fill the recoil lug recess
sufficiently to fill the recess when fitted. Now carefully insert the
barrel and action and press into the stock to the desired depth.
In an hour or two, when the bedding compound shows signs of
hardening, remove all surplus Acraglas with a dull knife or spatula,
being careful not to scratch the gun blueing nor the stock finish in
the process. On new stocks, leave a very small bead of Acraglas
above the wood between the stock and metal to be sanded to the
contours of the stock after final curing.
Under normal gun can be removed from the stock
conditions, the
in two or three days. Do not expect the barrel and action to lift out
easily. Even with adequate release agent applied, the fit is going to
be tight,) the way it should be, and you are going to have to strain
a little to get the metal and wood apart. A soft rubber mallet will
help. Grip the stock firmly and then pound under the barrel, im-
mediately ahead of the forearm, until the metal parts break loose.
The barrel and action should then lift out relatively easily.
Once the gun and stock are apart, inspect your work carefully.
If you find voids such as bubbles or missed places, mix a new batch

of compound and touch up these areas before rebedding the barrel

and action. These areas will then be as tough as the rest of the
bedding. Just be sure that the areas to be filled are free of release
agent before applying the Acraglas.
Improving Accuracy 199

When Acraglas is properly applied, broken or split stocks can

be as strong as, or stronger than, when new. When filling gouges
or bad dents in stocks, add Floe to strengthen the fill. Color can be
added match the existing stock finish. In doing so, however,
to closely
it is best to have the Acraglas a little lighter than the wood.

In repairing a gunstock for a Winchester prewar Model 70 that

had been rechambered to .270 Weatherby, the barrel was first re-
moved. Then the action was removed from the stock and the barrel
and receiver channels were cleaned. A small ''V”-shaped channel
was cut down a crack inside the stock to offer more contact with the
bedding compound. The stock had cracked almost all the way
through from the barrel lug screw hole to the magazine cutout in
the bottom of the stock. A batch of Acraglas was mixed according
to directions and the stock was clamped in a bench vise. A wooden
dowel was used to hold the crack open while the mixed Acraglas
was being applied. It ran down inside the crack and thoroughly
covered every surface of the cracked wood. When a reasonable
amount had been applied, the stock was repositioned in the vise so
that the jaws of the vise applied pressure to the sides of the stock
adjacent to the crack, pulling the crack together. All excess com-
pound was wiped from the stock, release agent was applied to the
barrel and action, and the gun was reinstalled into the stock. Thirty-
six hours later the gun was once again removed from the stock and
the repair examined. Everything was perfect. This repair prevented
the stock from cracking further and slightly improved its accuracy.

TRIGGER WORK
Trigger pull is another factor that can affect accuracy in a rifle.

It should be smooth and even for best results. Refer to chapter 9 for
a complete description of trigger repairs and alterations.

SIGHTS
Good sights are necessary for good accuracy and these must be
zeroed properly for best results. Refer to chapter 8 for complete
coverage of telescopic sights and techniques for their installation.
Accuracy can also be improved if you study the ballistic tables
of your particular cartridge. For example, if you shoot a .243 Win-
chester with a 100-grain bullet and your rifle is sighted in for 100
200 First Book of G unsmithing

yards, you will know that you can hold dead on a target at any range
from the muzzle to 150 yards and not be more than an inch off either
way, high or low. At 200 yards, you will be about 3 inches low from
the point of aim and you may want to make adjustments. At 300
yards, you will want to hold about 10 inches over your target. Once
you know these facts and can judge range accurately, you should be
able to hit anything from 0 to 300 yards.
Appendix

GUNSMITH SUPPLIES, TOOLS, SERVICES

Albright Products Co. Armite Labs
P.O. Box 1144 1845 Randolph Street
Portola, CA 96122 Los Angeles, CA 90001

Alley Supply Co. Atlas Press Co.

Carson Valley Industrial Park 2019 N. Pitcher Street
Gardnerville, NV 89410 Kalamazoo, MI 49007

Ames Machine Works

Precision B-Square Co.
5270 Geedes Road Box 11281
Ann Arbor, MI 48501 Fort Worth, TX 76110

Anderson Mfg. Co. Jim Baiar

P.O. Box 3120 490 Halfmoon Road
Yakima, WA 98903 Columbia Falls, MT 59912

201
202 Appendix

BehlertCustom Guns, Inc. Christy Gun Works

725 Lehigh Avenue 875-57th Street
Union, NJ 07083 Sacramento, CA 95819

A1 Biesen Clover Mfg. Co.

W. 2039 Sinto Avenue 139 Woodward Avenue
Spokane, WA 99201 Norwalk, CT 06856

Bonanza Sports Mfg. Co. Colbert Industries

412 Western Avenue 10107 Adella
Faribault, MN 55011 South Gate, CA 90280

Brookstone Co. A. Constantine & Son, Inc.

125 Vose Farm Road 2050 Eastchester Road
Peterborough, NH 03458 Bronx, NY 10461

Bob Brownell’s Dave Cook

Main & Third 720 Hancock Avenue
Montezuma, lA 50171 Hancock, MI 49930

W. E. Brownell Cougar & Hunter

1852 Alessandro Trail G 6398 W. Pierson Road
Vista, CA 92083 Flushing, MI 48433

Maynard P. Buehler, Inc. Alvin L. Davidson

17 Orinda Highway Products for Shooters
Orinda, CA 94563 1215 Branson
Las Cruces, NM 88001
Burgess Vibrocrafters, Inc.
Route 83 Dayton-Traister Co.
Grayslake, IL 60030 P.O. Box 593
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
M. H. Canjar
500 E. 45th Decker Shooting Products
Denver, CO 80216 1729 Laguna Avenue
Schaofield, WI 54476
Chapman Mfg. Co.
Route 17 at Saw Mill Road Dremel Mfg. Co.
Durham, CT 06422 4915-21st Street
Racine, Wl 53406
Chase Chemical Corp.
3527 Smallman Street Chas. E. Duffy
Pittsburgh, PA 15201 Williams Lane
West Hurley, NY 12491
Chicago Wheel & Mfg. Co.
1101 W. Monroe Street
Chicago, IL 60607
Appendix 203

Peter Dyson Ltd. Gopher Shooter’s Supply

29-31 Church Street Box 278
Honley, Huddersfield Faribault, MN 55021
Yorksh, HD72AH England
Grace Metal Products
E-Z Tool Co. 115 Ames Street
P.O. Box 3186 Elk Rapids, MI 49629
25 N.W. 44th Avenue
Des Moines, lA 50313 Gunline Tools, Inc.
719 N. East Street
Edmund Scientific Co. Anaheim, CA 92805
101 E. Glouster Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007 H. & M.
24062 Orchard Lake Road
F. K. Elliott Box 258
Box 785 Farmington, MI 48024
Ramona, CA 92065
Half Moon Rifle Shop
Emco-Lux 490 Halfmoon Road
2050 Fairwood Avenue Columbia Falls, MT 59912
Columbus, OH 43207
Hartford Reamer Co.
Forster Products Inc. Box 134
82 E. Lanark Avenue Lathrup Village, MI 48070
Lanark, IL 41046
Paul Jaeger, Inc.
Keith Francis 211 Leedom Street
P.O. Box 537 Jenkintown, PA 19046
Talent, OR 97540
Jeffredo Gunsight Co.
GRS Corp. 1629 Via Monserate
Box 1157 Fallbrook, CA 92028
Boulder, CO 80302
Jerrow’s Inletting Service
Gager Gage & Tool Co. 452 Fifth Avenue N.E.
27509 Industrial Boulevard Kalispell, MT 59901
Hayward, CA 94545
JET Machinery
Gilmore Pattern Works 1901 Jefferson Avenue
P.O. Box 50231 Tacoma, WA 98402
Tulsa, OK 74150
Kasenite Co., Inc.

Gold Lode, Inc. 3 King Street

181 Gary Avenue Mahwah, NJ 07430
Wheaton, IL 60187
204 Appendix

J. Korzinek Moderntools Corp.

RD# 2 Box R Box 407
Canton, PA 17724 Dept. GD
Woodside, NY 11377
LanDav Custom Guns
7213 Lee Highway Montgomery Ward
Falls Church, VA 22046 Baltimore, MD 21299

John G. Lawson MMC Co.

1802 E. Columbia Avenue 212 E. Spruce Street
Tacoma, WA 98404 Deming, NM 88030

Lea Mfg. Co. MTI Corp.

237 E. Aurora Street 11 East 26th Street
Waterbury, CT 06720 New York, NY 10010

Lightwood &
Son Ltd. N& J Sales
Britannia Road Lime Kiln Road
Banbury, Oxfordsh. Northford, CT 06472
0X1 68TD, England
Karl A. Neise, Inc.
Lock’s Philadelphia Gun Exchange 5602 Roosevelt Avenue
6700 Rowland Avenue Woodside, NY 11377
Philadelphia, PA 19149
Oehler Research Inc.
Marker Machine Co. P.O. Box 9135
Box 426 Austin, TX 78766
Charleston, IL 61920
Palmg^en Products
Michaels of Oregon Co. Chicago Tool & Eng. Co.
P.O. Box 13010 8383 South Chicago Avenue
Portland, OR 97213 Chicago, IL 60167

Viggo Miller Panavise

P.O. Box 4181 Colbert Industries
Omaha, NE 68104 10107 Adelia Avenue
South Gate, CA 90280
Miller Single Trigger Mfg. Co.
R.D. of Rt. 209 C. R. Pedersen Son &
Millersburg, PA 17061 Ludington, MI 49431

Frank Mittermeier Ponderay Lab

3577 E. Tremont 210 W. Prasch
New York, NY 10465 Yakima, WA 98902
Appendix 205

Redford Reamer Co. Stan de Treville

Box 40604 Box 33011
Redford Hts. Station San Diego, CA 92103
Detroit, MI 48240
Twin City Steel Treating Co.
Richland Arms Co. 1114 S. 3rd
321 W. Adrian Street Minneapolis, MN 55415
Blissfield, MI 49228
Will-Burt Co.
Riley’s Supply Co. 169 S. Main
121 N. Main Street Orrville, OH 44667
Alvilla, IN 46710
Williams Gun Sight Co.
Ruhr-American Corp. 7389 Lapeer Road
S Hwy.#5 Davison, MI 48423
Glenwood, MN 56334
Wilson Arms Co.
A. G. Russell 63 Leetes Island Road
1705 Highway 71N Branford, CT 06405
Springdale, AR 72764
Wisconsin Platers Supply Co.
Schaffner Mfg. Co. 2453 W. Five Mile Parkway
Emsworth Dallas, TX 75233
Pittsburgh, PA 15202
W. C. Wolff Co.
Schuetzen Gun Works Box 232
624 Old Pacific Highway Ardmore, PA 19003
Olympia, WA
98503
Woodcraft Supply Corp.
Sears Roebuck & Co. 313 Montvale
Philadelphia, PA Woburn, MA 01801

Shaw’s HANDGUN ACCESSORIES

Rt. 4Box 407-L A. R. Sales Co.
Escondido, CA 92025 P.O. Box 3192
South El Monte, CA 91733
L. S. Starrett Co.
Athol, MA 01331 Baramie Corp.
6250 E. 7 Mile Road
Texas Platers Supply Co. Detroit, MI 48234
2453 W. Five Mile Parkway
Dallas, TX 75233 Bar-Sto Precision Machinery
633 S. Victory Boulevard
Timney Mfg. Co. Burbank, CA 91502
2847 E. Siesta Lane
Phoenix, AZ 85024
206 Appendix

Behlert Custom Guns, Inc. Lee Custom Engineering, Inc.

725 Lehigh Avenue 46 E. Jackson Street
Union, NJ 07083 Hartford, WI 53027

C’Arco Lee Precision Inc.

P.O. Box 308 4275 Highway U
Highland, CA 92346 Hartford, WI 53027

Case Master Los Gatos Grip & Specialty Co.

4675 E. 10 Avenue P.O. Box 1850
Miami, FL 33013 Los Gatos, CA 95030

Central Specialties Co. Matich Loader

6030 Northwest Highway 10439 Rush Street
Chicago, IL 60631 South El Monte, CA 91733

D& E Magazines Mfg. W. A. Miller Co., Inc.

P.O. Box 4579 Mingo Loop
Downey, CA 90242 Oguossoc, ME 04969

BillDyer No-Sho Mfg. Co.

503 Midwest Building 10727 Glenfield Court
Oklahoma City, OK 73102 Houston, TX 77096

Essex Arms Pachmayr

Box 345 1220 S. Grand
Island Pond, VT 05846 Los Angeles, CA 90015

R. S. Frielich Pacific Int. Mchdsg. Corp.

396 Broome Street 2215 "J” Street
New York, NY 10013 Sacramento, CA 95818

Lake Tool Co. Pistolsafe

62 Kinkel Street Dr. L.
Westbury, L.I., NY 11590 No. Chili, NY 14514
GLOSSARY

Action The breech mechanism of a firearm through which it is loaded. The

action also secures the cartridge or shell in the chamber to prevent
discharge to the rear.
Action, Bolt Abreech-action gun that operates by a bolt which locks the
cartridge in the chamber of the barrel and also ejects the cartridges
when the bolt is open.
Action, Lever A breech-action that is opened, closed, and operated by
means of a lever, usually formed as a rearward extension of the trigger.
Action, Pump A breech-action gun that is opened, closed, and operated
by means of a sliding fore-end which is formed into a convenient handle
for this purpose. This type of action is also called trombone or slide-
action.

Automatic A term commonly used for a self-loading firearm. A better term

is semiautomatic or autoloading because a firearm is truly automatic
only when continues to
it fire as long as the trigger is held back — like
in a machine gun.

207
208 Glossary

Barrel The part of a firearm that holds the powder charge, wadding, and
bullet before firing and acts as a guide for the bullet upon firing.

Black Powder Mixture of charcoal, sulphur, and saltpeter; grains are

coated with graphite.
Blow-Back A type of recoil-powered semiautomatic action in which the
shell or cartridge casing blows back against the breech block causing
it to open. Such an action is used only in low-powered guns, such as
.22 rim-fire rifles and some handguns.
Blueing The process done metal parts on firearms to dull the bright
to
steel color of exposed metal parts and also helps prevent rust.

Bore The hole through the barrel of a firearm measured from land to land.
In rifled barrels, the groove diameter is the distance between opposite
grooves.
Break-Open Shotgun Shotgun action in which the gun opens at the
breech, tipping the rear of the barrel upward to where the shells are
placed in the chamber; barrels then lift up until locked in place. Some
of these actions have also been converted to fire centerfire rifle car-
tridges.

Breech The rear end of the bore of a firearm where the cartridge is inserted
into the chamber.
Breech-Bolt Part of the action that closes the breech and sustains the
head of the cartridge when the gun is fired.
Browning Process similar to blueing that gives the traditional brown
finish found on muzzle-loaders and Damascus barrels.

Bullet The projectile fired from a rifle or handgun.

Butt The part of the gunstock that comes in contact with the shoulder of
the shooter.
Button Rifling Method of rifling in which a special button, similar in
shape to a bullet, is drawn through a barrel blank to create the grooves.
Butt Plate The plate of hard rubber, steel, aluminum, or synthetic material
that is attached to and protects the rear end of the butt stock. Butt pads
are used to soften the feel of recoil from shotguns and rifles.
Caliber Principally the bore (or land-to-land) diameter of a barrel; not the
actual bullet diameter in modern usage. Used to refer to the actual
designation of a cartridge such as, "caliber .257 Roberts.” Also a unit
of measure to describe bullet nose shave; that is, "4-caliber ogive or
seating depth,” "1-caliber seating depth,” and in big-gun terms, barrel
length in units of bore diameter. A 50-caliber, 6-inch gun has a barrel
that is 50 times 6 inches or 300 inches (25 feet) long.
Cant Leaning of a rifle to one side or the other so that the sights are not
in a truly vertical plane. As a result the bullet strikes the target on
the side of the cant and slightly low.
Cap A percussion cap for use with cap-and-ball guns. Also, the cup and
Glossary' 209

priming-compound pettel of a conventional shotshell primer. Some-

times used in place of the word "primer.”
Carbine A short-barreled ride, like the Ruger .44 Magnum or Winchester
Model 94.

Carrier The mechanism in a magazine or repeating firearm that carries

the cartridge or shotgun shell from the magazine into a position to be
pushed into the chamber.
Cast-Off A slant in a gunstock away from the face of a right-handed
shooter.
Cast-On A slant in a gunstock toward the face of a right-handed shooter.
Centerfire Term used to identify a cartridge having its primer inserted
in the center of the head of the shell or case.
Center-Punch Punch with a short, sharp point for marking metal, usually
before drilling with bit. It is also sometimes used to pin dovetail sight
bases to solve the problem of loose sights.
Chamber The enlarged portion of the bore, at the breech, in which the
cartridge rests when in position to be fired.
Checkering Process of cutting a pattern into pistol grips and forearms of
gunstocks.
Checkering Cradle This item used to secure the gunstock during check-
is

ering so it can be rotated; also useful for stock inletting, sanding, stain-
ing, and finishing.
Checkering Tools used for fine-line checkering on stocks and forearms.
Cheek Piece A raised, carved portion of the butt stock on one side of the
comb which the shooter can use as a cheek rest when aiming.
Chilled Shot Shot formed with an alloy of lead and antimony different
from that used in drop shot.
Choke Classification determined by the amount of constriction created at
the end of the barrel. Amount dependent on the number of
of choke is

shot that actually hits the target in comparison with the number that
leaves the end of the barrel. Measured in terms of points.
Chrome-Molybdenum Steel Type of steel that withstands high pressure
well; used for making gun barrels.
Cock To ready the hammer or firing pin of a gun so that it is in a position
to fire.

Comb Top of the butt stock or part of the stock that extends from the heel
to a point justbehind the hand as the stock is grasped. A
proper comb
guides the face to a position where the eye falls quickly into the line
of aim.

Cone The slope of the forward end of the chamber of a rifle or shotgun
which decreases the chamber diameter to bore diameter. Sometimes,
especially in shotguns, it is called the forcing cone.
Copperized Shot Type of shot covered with a copper plating done by an
210 Glossary

electrolytic (plating) process, making the shot harder and more resist-

ant to deformation.
Crossbolt Transverse bolt used to lock the standing breech and barrels
of a side-by-side or over-under shotgun.
Cylinder The part of a revolver which contains the cartridge chambers
and revolves so that each cartridge in turn lines up with the barrel to
be fired.

Damascus Barrels Twisted steel barrels whose manufacture resulted in

the grain of the metal appearing on the outside of the barrel in the
form of irregular links or spirals creating intricate patterns; unsafe to
use with smokeless powder.
Double- Action Revolver Cocks and fires with a single pull of the trigger.
Most such revolvers can also be fired as a single-action type for better
accuracy.
Double-Kick Jolts experienced from the two-part recoil of the long-recoil
shotgun. One kick is felt when the shell is fired; the other when the
barrel and breech slam home.
Drooped-Wire Brush Heavy brush made of bronze used to remove hard
fouling and rust from barrels with ease.
Drop The distance a projectile falls due to the force of gravity. Drop must
be corrected by means of sight adjustment for the difference between
the line of sight and the line of departure. Drop also refers to the height
between the line of sight and the top of the stock comb or heel.
Drop Shot Shot formed when molten lead is mixed with a small amount
of arsenic.

Dummy Cartridge A cartridge case and bullet without powder or primer,

used for testing the feed, extraction, and ejection of actions.

Ear Protector Plugs, acoustical muffs, or similar devices used to help

eliminate the sound of gun shots.
Eject The action of throwing a cartridge from the breech after extraction.
This is often accomplished by spring action.
Ejector A mechanism on firearms that ejects the fired or unfired shell clear
of the gun.

Elevation A vertical sight adjustment to bring the point of aim to the

proper elevation to compensate for bullet drop.

Enfield Rifling Type of rifling with a square shape that twists through
the length of the rifle barrel.
Engine Turning The process of polishing circular spots on metal (usually
rifle bolts) with a spinning abrasive rod.
Engraving The art of cutting patterns or designs into the metal parts of
a firearm to improve its appearance and to increase its value.

Extract The process of removing a cartridge case from the chamber of the
action.
Glossary 211

Extractor The hooked device that withdraws the cartridge from the cham-
ber when mechanism is opened.
the breech
Eye Relief The optimum distance the eye must be held from the ocular
lens of a telescopic sight to obtain a full field of view through the scope.
Feed The action of transferring cartridges from the magazine of a repeating
or semiautomatic gun into the chamber of the barrel.
Federal Firearms License License that must be held by anyone who
works on a firearm for other people.

Firearm Transaction Record Federal form covering the transfer of a

firearm to a nonlicensed person.
Firing Pin The pointed nose of the hammer of a firearm or the separate —
—
pin or plunger that dents the primer of a cartridge or shell to fire the
round.
Flexible Brass Jag Tip Type of tip for cleaning firearms; patch wraps
around the jag causing the patch to press evenly on the bore squeezing
oil into the pores of the steel.

Florentine Finish Gun engraving made by cutting crossed sets of lines.

Forearm The forward portion of a stock under the barrel that serves as
the fore grip on the arm. Frequently called 'Tore-end.”
Frame The framework of a firearm to which the barrel and stock are
fastened and in which the breech, lock, and reloading mechanisms are
located.

Freebore The unrifled portion of the barrel between the rifling and the
end of the chamber.
Gallery The term usually applied to an indoor rifle or handgun range.
Gas-Cutting The escape of propellant gas between a bullet and the bore
of the barrel, usually caused by the bullet being undersized for the bore.

Gas-Operated Action Method of powering a semiautomatic action in

which the rifle operates off the gas generated by the expansion of gun
powder.
Gauge Refers to the size of the barrel bore in a shotgun.
Glass Bedding The reinforcing of a wooden gunstock by adding a fiber-
glass-epoxy compound to strengthen the stock and improve accuracy
and consistency of point of bullet impact. The compound is also useful
for repairing broken stocks.

Grip The small part of the stock (often called the wrist) to the rear of, or
just below, the action where the hand of the shooter grasps the firearm
for shooting.

Group A number of consecutive shots, usually five or ten, fired at a target

with constant aim and sight adjustment; their bullet holes making a
group on the target.
Guard Screw The screws that hold the action and trigger guard to the
stock.
212 Glossary

Gun Control Act Regulates firearms-related businesses.

Gun Sling Provides a comfortable means of carrying a firearm and also
helps steady a weapon while being fired.
Hammer The part of a firearm that strikes either the cartridge rim or
primer, or strikes the firing pin, driving it forward so that it indents
the primer or rim of the cartridge causing it to discharge. The hammer
is actuated by a mainspring and controlled by the trigger.

Hammerless Firearms having the hammer concealed within the breech

mechanism; or, a firearm that has no hammer and is striker-fired; a
spring activated firing mechanism.
Hammer Rifling Method of rifling in which the rifle barrel is pounded
over a special mandrel to make the grooves.
Head Space The dimension determines whether the
in a firearm that
cartridge is tightly breeched in the chamber when the breech, breech
block, or breech bolt is shut. When there is too little head space, the
breech will not close on the cartridge. When there is too much, the
firearm misfires and accidents occur. Excessive head space is dangerous
and may result in injury. Head space can be checked with gauges avail-
able from gunsmith supply houses.
Hinge The joint in a break-down, breech-loading rifle or shotgun con-
necting the barrel or barrels with the frame.
Inletting Process for making a rifle stock from a blank by inserting the
metal parts and chipping away the excess wood.
Lands That portion of the original bore surface of a rifle barrel that lies
between the grooves.
Leading Metal fouling from lead bullets caused by a rough or pitted barrel.
Leather Polisher Tips Type of tip for cleaning firearms using buff leather
disks; recommended because no metal touches the bore.

Length of Stock The distance in a straight line from the center of the
trigger to a point midway between the heel and toe of the butt plate,
on the surface of the plate. The stock length depends upon the
—
shooter short arms require shorter stocks.
Lever Action Rapid-firing, repeating rifles that use a magazine to feed
ammunition.
Line of Sight The straight line passing from the eye through the sights
to the target.

Lock Main mechanism on a muzzle-loading rifle that controls the ignition

of powder in the barrel.

Locking Bolt The bolt used in a break-down, breech-loading gun to lock

the breech in its closed position.
Lock Speed The time consumed between the releasing of the firing mech-
anism and the explosion of the cartridge.
Loop Upper portion of the gun sling; should be adjusted to within two
inches of the butt swivel.
 Glossan' 213

Lug A lug on the barrel of a break-down, breech-loading shotgun or rifle

that secures the barrel to the frame. The lugs on the front of a bolt or
breech block that rotate into slots to lock the action for firing are termed
"locking lugs.”
Kentucky Rifle One of the first rifles using spiral grooves in the barrel
resulting in more accuracy.
Magazine A box or tube on or in a repeating firearm where the cartridges
are carried in a position to be fed into the chamber by means of the
reloading mechanism.
Magazine, Box Magazine in w'hich the cartridges are stacked horizontally.
Magazine, Full A tubular magazine reaching the entire length of the
barrel.

Magazine, Half A tubular magazine reaching half the length of the barrel.
Magazine, Tubular Magazine in which the cartridges are carried end-to-
end in a tube located beneath the barrel or within the stock.
Mainspring The spring, either fiat or coiled, that moves the hammer or
firing pin forward to strike the hammer.
Mannlicher Stocks Stocks on which the forearm extends to the muzzle
of the barrel; barrel lengths are commonly 18 to 20 inches.

Matted Rib A raised, solid rib along the top length of a shotgun barrel
designed to cut reflection and improve sighting.
Metal Fouling A deposit of metal left by the bullet in the bore; can cause
poor accuracy.
Micrometer Reading Sum of the readings of the graduations on the barrel
and the thimble.
Mounts Metal bases and rings used to fasten a telescopic sight to the barrel
or receiver of a weapon.

Muzzle Brake Installed on the barrel to reduce recoil; most use a precut
outlet for surplus gas to escape.

National Rifle Association Organized group to lobby for gun legislation

that will not hinder the rights of citizens to own firearms.
Ordinance Steel Steel with high tensile strength that is easy to machine;
used for making barrels.
Over and Under A double-barrel shotgun or rifle with one barrel super-
imposed over the other.
Pattern Percentage of shot that hits within a circular target at a specified
range.
Pistol A handgun in which the cartridge loaded into a chamber in the
is

barrel. Pistols may be single shot, repeating, or semiautomatic. When

the cartridges are loaded in and fired from a revolving cylinder, the
pistol is called a revolver.

Pitch of Butt The angle of the butt or butt plate in relation to the barrel.
If, for example, the butt of a gun is rested on a flat surface on the floor
214 Glossary

with the barrel in a vertical position, and the barrel muzzle is inclined
at two inches from perpendicular, the butt is said to have a pitch of
two inches.
Plain Jag Tip Type of tip used for cleaning firearms which gives a uniform
cleaning action and reverses inside the barrel.
Point Refers to the 0.001 inch difference between the muzzle diameter and
the bore diameter; measurement of choke.

Powder The mixture that supplies the power used

finely divided chemical
in shotgun and metallic ammunition. Originally, all propellent powder
was black powder, which was formed in grains of different sizes, which
determined the rate of burning and suitability for various cartridges
in black powder arms. Modern powders are smokeless with base of
nitroglycerine or nitrocellulose or a combination of both.
Primer The cap seated in the center of the base of a centerfire cartridge
or shot shell that contains the igniting compound. When the primer is

indented by the firing pin, the priming compound is crushed and det-
onates, thus igniting the charge of powder. Rim-fire cartridges contain
the priming compound within the folded rim of the case, where it is
crushed in the same manner.
Projectile A ball, shot, or bullet fired from a firearm.
Pump Action Mechanism that allows the shooter to cycle cartridges
through without having to remove the trigger finger.

Pump Gun A repeating firearm having a slide action.

Receiver The frame consisting of breech, locking, and reloading mecha-
nisms of shotguns or rifies.
Recoil Method for powering semiautomatic actions.
Recoil Pads Cushions the gun’s recoiling kick as the gun is fired; can be
used to extend the stock’s length for better fit.
Repeating Firearm Any rifle, shotgun, or pistol, other than a revolver,
having a magazine in which a reserve supply of cartridges is carried,
and a repeating mechanism which when operated, ejects the fired car-
tridge case, replaces it with a loaded cartridge, and is ready to fire.
Revolver Firearm with a cylinder that rotates one chamber at a time
allowing six to nine discharges.
Rib The raised on its upper surface, and usually
bar, slightly concave
matted, that forms the sighting plane extending the length of the barrel.
Rifle A shoulder-mounted firearm with the bore of its barrel cut with spiral
grooves; the purpose of the grooves is to cause the projectile to rotate
on its axis when fired, resulting in greater range and accuracy.
Rifling The spiral grooves in a barrel that impart spin to a bullet as it

traverses the length of the barrel.

Roll Jag Tip Type of top for cleaning firearms; permits rolled or wrapped
patches to be used; good for cleaning rifles that have to be wiped out
from the muzzle end.
 Glossary' 215

Rolling-Block Action Single-shot action in which the breech block pivots

and rolls back to eject the fired cartridge and insert a new one.
Safety The device that mechanically locks a firearm against the possibility
of discharge.
Sear The device in the lock of a firearm that holds the hammer or firing
pin in cocked position. When the trigger is pulled to the rear
its it
disengages the sear, and releases the hammer or firing pin.
Self-Loading A
type of firearm that, by pulling the trigger, utilizes the
energy of recoil or the powder gases, together with a heavy counter-
balanced bolt and strong bolt spring, to eject the fired case, load a fresh
cartridge from the magazine into the chamber, and close the breech to
the ready to fire position. The trigger must be pulled for each shot.
Semiautomatic Firearm that requires the trigger be pulled each time a
shot is made.
Shotgun Smooth-bored gun; modern shotguns are loaded at the breech
instead of through the muzzle.
Side by Side A double-barrel firearm with the barrels horizontally along-
side of each other.
Sight Radius The distance between the front and rear sights. The longer
the distance, the greater the accuracy.
Single-Action Revolver Pistol in which hammer must be pulled back
after the trigger has been pulled before the pistol can be fired again.

Single-Slotted Tip Type of tip for cleaning firearms; holds the patch under
all conditions.
Smooth Bore A firearm without rifling.

Solder Used ramps, sight bases, and other firearm accessories;

to join sight
use conventional 50 percent tin and 50 percent lead solder without an
acid core.

Sporter Stock Most common type of rifle stock.

Standing Breech The face of the frame of a double-barrel shotgun that
closes the barrels at the breech.
Stock Wooden member in which the lock and barrel are imbedded.
Stock, Butt The butt section of a firearm in which the forearm is separate
from the butt stock.
Stock, One Piece The stock of a rifle in which the butt stock and fore end
are in one piece.
Take-Dowm Gun or A
firearm in which the barrel and adjacent
Rifle
parts can be separated from the receiver or action. This permits the
weapon to be packed in a short container.
Tang One of the two arms
or shanks of the frame or receiver of a gun that
extends to the rear, and is inletted into the grip of the stock.
Target Stocks Area of the forearm and action is somewhat wider than on
the sporting stock.
216 Glossary

Throat The forward portion of the chamber where it tapers to meet the
diameter of the bore proper.
Tinning The process of coating an area of a firearm by soft soldering.

Tip-Up Action Type of single-shot action in which the breech end of the
barrel tips up and fires.

Trigger The small lever within the trigger guard. When pulled backwards,
it releases the hammer or firing pin, which discharges the cartridge in

the chamber.
Trigger, Set A type of trigger that can be set so that it will release the
sear with a much lighter pull.
Trigger Shoe Evenly spreads trigger release pressure over the ball of the

trigger finger.
Trigger Guard A guard surrounding the trigger of a firearm for protection
and safety purposes.
Twist Amount of pitch in a rifle barrel’s rifling; determines rate of spin
a bullet will have when it leaves the end of the rifle barrel.
Velocity The speed of the bullet or shot charge, measured in feet per second
at or near the muzzle.

Ventilated Rib A raised sighting plane fastened to a shotgun barrel by

posts, allowing the passage of air to disperse the mirage rising from a
hot barrel which distorts the shooter’s view of the target.
Water Table The space on the underside of the barrels of a break-
flat

down, double-barrel gun at the breech, which bed on or form the flat
surfaces of the frame.
Wool Mop Tips Type of tip used for cleaning firearms; good for oiling the
bores of rifles and shotguns; must be kept clean.
Zero The range which the sight of a rifle must be adjusted
in yards at to

center a group of shots at the point of aim from the same distance.
Index

accuracy, 189-90, 197 browning, 160

amalgam, 150 burring the muzzle. See
malfunction, damaged muzzles

bedding, 197-9
bench block project, 66 carving, 152-5
blueing, 174-8 checkering
cold blueing, 162-6 cradle, 134-5
equipment, basic, 167-9 patterns, 139-45
hot caustic, 166 styles, basic, 133-4
hot water, 160-2, 167 tools, 135-8
polishing before, 169-73 cleaning
slow rust, 160, 166 accessories, 27-30
small gun parts, 36 directions, 26
bore polisher, 29 frequency, 25
bore problems holding gun, 31
metal fouling, 189-91 kit, 26
pitting, 191 materials, 26

217
218 Index

cleaning (cont’d) inlay

rust removal, 32-33 gold, 150-1
cleaning rod, 29-30 silver, 151-2
tips, 27-9, 56-7 inletted stocks. See stocks, semi-

collimating, 94 finished

creep. See trigger

crowning barrel, 192

jeweling, 155-8

damascening. See jeweling

lapping, 191
leading. See fouling

engine turning. Sec jeweling

engraving, 147-9

malfunctions
damaged muzzles, 183, 192-5
heavy-recoil, 196-7
federal firearms license, 12-17
lever-action, 183
fouling
in specific weapons
correction, 30
bolt-action rifles, 184
leading, 30
double-action revolvers,
metal, 30, 189-91
186-7
what to look for, 30
semi-automatic firearms,
185-6
semi-automatic
handguns, 187
gunstock conditioning single-shot, break-open

fill sticks, 36 shotguns, 185

shellac sticks, 34, 84
gunstocks. See stocks

plating, 149-50
pitting. See bore problems
polishing. See blueing
hammer. See trigger mechanisms
hangfire, 20
heat
heat-treating furnace, 77
moderate, use, 24 rust removal, 32-3
Index 219

safety mechanism, 21 tongs, 78

safety, 21-4 tools, power, 64
scopes bench grinder, 70, 74-5
adjusting eye relief, 93-4 drill press, 68-70
choosing, 90 heat-treating furnace, 77
mounting, 90-3 lathe, 70-4, 75-6
sighting in, 94-6, 199 milling machine, 76-7
97-102
top-ejecting rifles, purchase of, 67-8
sear. See trigger mechanism welding outfit, 75
shellac sticks. See gunstock tools, basic, 48-63
conditioning tool kits, basic, 48
shop, setting up trigger
abrasives, 82 creep, 108
abrasive compound, 29, 84 correction of, 113-15
cleaning pads/swabs, 85 double set, 110
finish removers, 83 honing, 110-13
gun parts, 86-8 mechanisms, 106
hardening compounds, 84-5 military, 109
sight jigs, 102-4 pull, 23, 105-6, 199
sling swivels, 123-7 replacement, 109-10
stock take down. See tools, shoes, 115
specialty troubleshooting, 180, 187. See
stocks also malfunctions
bedding, 197-9
semi-finished, 127-31
refinishing, 118-23, 144-5
ultimate backdrop, 21-2

tools
bench block, 66
bench knife, 61 vise, 31, 54
brass hammer, 56 visual inspection, 33, 180

disassembly, 63
drills, 62
files, 58-60
hack saw, 61 woodworking tools, 118
honing stones, 60-1 woodshop, locating, 39-45. See
parallel pliers, 57-58 also shop, setting up
pin punches, 52
screw check’R, 62
screwdrivers, 48-51
specialty tools, 64-5 zeroing weapons, 96, 199-200
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23 TILTON ROAD
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 Trsistrery John E
First book ot
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Traister John E.,

First book of gunsmithing

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JOHN E. TRAISTER'S

First Book of
«:

A Beginner’s Guide

Here is everything you eyer wanted to know about developing

your v^i^y. own, personalized style of gun care and repair^Py
having 'just what you need ... ^
^

Starlet . .
. ,
f
-a fpw wellPhosen topis and techniques recommended by
"
|ri expert .

'
-a wofk bench
possible ^ set up to

^
do the most efficient gun work

5 , ...

Impress Your Friends . .

. %
-the“pe3 ”
treatmeo| of a gunstock carved by you ’

I
•

-hints, erns, and Illustrations to give your firearms that

madeTto-or(|^r” look

Save Money
-by dqir^ your own repairs and making adjustments to suit
your needs Instead of paying someone else 4
-keeping your guns clean with a good maintenance routine
to^prev^t damage by rusf and corrosion
VI*

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

^ ^ohn Traisfer has been working with guns for years now
he b^gs his expertise to the beginner In FIRST BOOK OF
^
GUNSMITHING. He is well qualified to write a book on the basics
! since he built his first pistol at the age of 13. His familiarity with
guns began?*at an even earlier age when he fired a .22 rimfire at
age 4. ^

,
Today^'he successfully combines two vocations gunsmith-
.

Ing and writing about guns. He says that he can look out from his
—
;

home office winjdow while writing and spot customers looking

"

for him In his ^un^shop. Combining two demanding occupations

would be a tough job for anyone, but for John, It’s a “dream
come
V
true.” ‘V

Stackpole Books
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