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Build Guide - 3D Sets Skippy - Boat v1.1.0

The document is a build guide for the 3D printed radio-controlled boat model 'Skippy', which is a 1/8 scale model with specific dimensions and weight. It includes technical specifications, a changelog for version 1.1.0, and detailed instructions for assembly, including required parts, tools, and printing settings. The guide also provides troubleshooting tips for ensuring waterproofing and offers options for motor configurations.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
24 views85 pages

Build Guide - 3D Sets Skippy - Boat v1.1.0

The document is a build guide for the 3D printed radio-controlled boat model 'Skippy', which is a 1/8 scale model with specific dimensions and weight. It includes technical specifications, a changelog for version 1.1.0, and detailed instructions for assembly, including required parts, tools, and printing settings. The guide also provides troubleshooting tips for ensuring waterproofing and offers options for motor configurations.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 85

Build Guide – 3D Sets Skippy – Boat

3D printed radio controlled


Boat 1/8 scale model.

www.3dsets.com
3D Sets Facebook

Version 1.1.0

1
3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0 technical specs.
● Dimensions: 53.5 cm length, 23.8 cm width, 23 cm height
● Model weights roughly 1.7 kg (including battery)
● One or Two Outboard motor
● Ready for color printing – by changing filament colors during print or inserting visible filaments in the slots
● No glue used; all parts holds together by metric M3 screws. No tiny M2 used.
● Fast build suitable for kids with help of adults.
● Ready for Radio Control (need to be purchased independently)

2
3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0 changelog
Changelog:

● “Skippy - Boat - v 1.1.0, release date: June, 2024


○ Update for Two Motors variant - added parts “Servo Mount”, “Motor Body Main 2”, “Motor Mount B 2” and “Propeller 2”. Added print plates for
variants with two motors (Print plates with variant “B”).
○ Added print plates (3mf) and bgcode for Prusa MK4
○ Added variants part “Motor Axle” in folder “Spare Parts” with 3 holes for screws M3 and M2,5

3
Before you start
● Get ready all tools.
● Buy necessary parts that cannot be printed (screws, motor etc.), these parts are listed on next page.
● Make sure that your printer is calibrated well – print our “Water Tightness Test” to ensure that you can fit
bearings on shafts properly! Water Tightness Test is located on “Print 0 - Water Tightness Test”.
● Use higher printing temperatures – use about 210-215°C for PLA to have firm layer adhesion!

● Build guide is divided on steps and subassemblies. Subassembly is a sequence, where you will make some
independent sub-part like gearbox, axles etc. Later you will install subassembly in the boat.

It is not mandatory to use soldering equipment to make all electronics working. You can buy “faston” connectors
which will replace soldering of wires.

4
Are you new to the Radio Controlled
models?
Don’t worry, Radio Controlled (RC) models are not as complicated as they can look! However, it’s a good to know
some basics before you will start buying parts.
Most mechanical parts in our products will be 3d printed on your own printer, so we will focus here on RC
electronics.

On-line beginners guides:

● Steemit.com – a basic introduction to RC car models

● Instructables.com – another beginners guide, general (not focused on car models)

● Youtube – a nice video showing RC electronic basics

If you have any questions regarding our models, feel free to ask us (or other 3dsets
builders) on our Facebook discussion group, available here: Facebook – 3D Sets

5
3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0: What do you need?
● LINKS for PARTS PURCHASE! ➡ list of required non-printed parts is here (continuously updated): click for non-printed parts spreadsheet

● Print Filament: To print this model you will need around 1500 g of print filament in total. We print our models from PLA material. You can use
variable color for chassis and body. Tested and recommended filament: Fillamentum PLA Extrafill or Prusament PLA.
● The recommended drive is a brushless motor (with ∅ 28 mm diameter and 30 mm maximum(!) length) – 1300kV
● Steering servo in standard size (39x19,5x38,5mm) – waterproof & Servo extension cable (∼20 cm long)
● Speed controller (ESC) max size 40x30x25mm – waterproof
● cables & soldering equipment – for extending wires from ESC to motor
● 11.1 Battery with dimensions max 140x48x26mm
● Electric connectors: 2 pairs (battery connectors, motor <–> ESC connectors)
● Twin cable & soldering equipment

6
3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0: Required hardware

Screws and nuts (in metric size):

● M3x6: 22 pcs.
● M3x8: 21 pcs.
● M3x10: 28 pcs.
● M3x16: 19 pcs.
● M3x20: 2 pcs.

7
Check watertightness of your prints!

"Print 0" is an important test that you should perform before printing the major sections of the boat's hull. Test the
waterproofing only on the specific parts we supplied with distinct shapes! After loading the file into the slicer, double-check
the print settings!

Waterproof parts require specific print settings:


● Number of perimeters: 3 perimeters
● Infill type/density: Lightning, infill 30% (!) – it does not affect waterproofing but significantly influences the weight
of the hull. Do not reduce infill below 30%, as it may compromise the waterproofing of the top layers!
● Number of top layers – minimum 6 layers
● Number of bottom layers – minimum 6 layers

Try a test print. Print it and check whether water penetrates into the test piece. Submerge the entire piece in a container
of water for approximately 10 minutes. If you see continuous escaping bubbles, it may indicate water penetration into the
hollow part. Remove the piece from the water, dry it, and try shaking it. If you hear or feel water inside the piece, it is not
waterproof, which could pose problems during the operation of the boat model.

If the piece is not waterproof, it could be due to the following reasons:


● Clogged nozzle, causing insufficient material flow
● Very humid filament
● Improperly calibrated printer with inadequate material extrusion
● Incorrect nozzle height above the bed (incorrectly set first layer)
● Failure to adhere to the correct print parameters in the slicer (see above – perimeters, number of layers, infill…)

Tip: You can repeat the waterproofing test with a different type of filament (PLA, PETG), from a different brand, etc.

8
Skippy – Boat Stand
In this procedure you will assemble the boat stand.

Required print plates:

● "Print 1 - Boat Stand 1"


● "Print 2 - Boat Stand 2"

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.

9
Boat Stand
If you will print the part “Boat Stand” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided .gcode, please use following
slicer setup:

Stand Side: Stand Front , Stand Rear:

● Layer height: 0.2mm ● Layer height: 0.2mm


● Infill type: Honeycomb ● Infill type: Honeycomb
● Infill: 10% ● Infill: 20%
● Perimeters: 3 ● Perimeters: 3
● Top Layers: 5 ● Top Layers: 0
● Bottom Layers: 0 ● Bottom Layers: 0

10
Boat Stand – step 1/1

2x M3x10

2x M3x10

11
Skippy – Hull
In this procedure you will assemble the Hull of the boat.

Before printing Hull parts, check the watertightness of your prints! See page 8.
Required print plates:






"Print 3 - Hull Front”
“Print 4 - Hull Middle”
“Print 5 - Hull Rear”
“Print 6 - Hull Details 1”
“Print 7 - Hull Details 2”
!
● “Print 13B - Second Outboard Motor 1”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x6: 6 pcs.


● Screw M3x10: 12 pcs.
● Screw M3x16: 11 pcs.

12
Hull
If you will print the part “Hull” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided .gcode, please use following slicer
setup:

● Infill density: 30%


● Infill type: Lightning
● Perimeters: 3
● Top Layers: 6
● Bottom Layers: 6

13
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

14
Hull – step 1/9

Filament
cut alignment pins
18 mm
from 1.75 mm filament max.

15
Hull – step 2/9
Don’t use electric screwdriver for tightening screws – be gentle to not break screw holes!

2x M3x10

2x M3x10 3x M3x16

16
Hull – step 3/9

Filament
cut alignment pins
18mm
max.
from 1.75 mm filament

17
Hull – step 4/9
Don’t use electric screwdriver for tightening screws – be gentle to not break screw holes!

3x M3x16

2x M3x10

2x M3x10

18
Motor choice
There are two different Motor options for Skippy:

One Outboard Motor


Two Outboard Motors

For One Motor, proceed to next page 20. For Two Motor, proceed to page 21.

19
Hull – step 5/9 – One Outboard Motor

4x M3x10

2x M3x16

20
Hull – step 5/9 – Two Outboard Motors

8x M3x10

2x M3x16

21
Hull – step 6/9

1. 2. 3.

1x M3x16
1x M3x6

1.

2.

3.

1x M3x6
22
Hull – step 7/9

Use color
filaments:
6x

Use color
filaments:
6x

23
Hull – step 8/9

4x M3x6

24
Hull – step 9/9

2x M3x16

25
Skippy – Superstructure Sporty look
In this procedure you will assemble the superstructure – sporty look.

Required print plates:

● “Print 8a - Superstructure 1”
● “Print 11 - Superstructure 2”
● “Print 12 - Superstructure 3 - Text Skippy”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x6: 10 pcs.

26
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

27
Superstructure - Skippy text
You can print Superstructure - Skippy text with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament
changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

● Change filament at Layer 11 - height 1,7mm


● Layer color before change: white
● Layer color after change: red

28
Superstructure Sporty look – 1/3

2x M3x6

29
Superstructure Sporty look – 2/3

4x M3x6

30
Superstructure Sporty look – 3/3

2x M3x6

2x M3x6

31
Skippy – Superstructure – Utility look
In this procedure you will assemble the superstructure – utility look.

Required print plates:

● “Print 8b - Superstructure 1”
● “Print 9 - Superstructure - Beacon”
● “Print 10 - Superstructure - Radar”
● “Print 11 - Superstructure 2”
● “Print 12 - Superstructure 3 - Text Skippy”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x6: 12 pcs.

32
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

33
Superstructure - Skippy text
You can print Superstructure - Skippy text with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament
changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

● Change filament at Layer 11 - height 1,7mm


● Layer color before change: white
● Layer color after change: red

34
Beacom & Radar
You can print Beacom and Radar s with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes
in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

Beacom: Radar:

● Change filament at Layer 81 - height 12,2mm ● Change filament at Layer 9 - height 1,4mm
● Layer color before change: black ● Layer color before change: red
● Layer color after change: white ● Layer color after change: black

35
Superstructure Utility look – 1/4

2x M3x6

36
Superstructure Utility look– 2/4

2x M3x6

37
Superstructure Utility look – 3/4

4x M3x6

38
Superstructure Utility look – 4/4

2x M3x6

2x M3x6

39
Motor choice
There are two different Motor options for Skippy:

One Outboard Motor


Two Outboard Motors

For One Motor, continue to 49, then skip to 60. For Two Motor, continue step by step (skip 48
and 49).
40
Skippy – Outboard Motor
In this procedure you will assemble the Outboard Motor.

Required print plates:

● “Print 13 - Outboard Motor 1”


● “Print 14 - Outboard Motor 2”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x8: 9 pcs.


● Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.
● Screw M3x16: 4 pcs.
● Screw M3x20: 1 pcs.

41
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

42
Outboard Motor – step 1/7

4x M3x8

correct wires
routing position

Use screws
supplied with your
motor!

43
Outboard Motor – step 2-3/7

3x M3x10

3x M3x20

44
Outboard Motor – step 4/7
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with 3 wires from motor to the
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the ESC. Make extension
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel! wires 40cm long

45
Outboard Motor – step 5/7
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!

1x M3x16

46
Outboard Motor – test only in the water!
If you want to test the assembled
motor, test it only with the
propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller
may melt and jam in the channel!

Must always be
underwater!
Outboard Motor – step 6/7

5x M3x8

1x M3x16 1x M3x10

1x M3x16

48
Outboard Motor – step 7/7

1x M3x16

49
Skippy – Second Outboard Motor
In this procedure you will assemble the Second Outboard Motor.

Required print plates:

● “Print 13B - Second Outboard Motor 1” Top View


● “Print 14B - Second Outboard Motor 2”

Non-printed parts for Second Outboard Motor:

● Screw M3x8: 9 pcs.


● Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.
● Screw M3x16: 4 pcs.
● Screw M3x20: 1 pcs.
Second
Outboard
Motor

50
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

51
Second Outboard Motor – step 1/8

4x M3x8

correct wires
routing position

Use screws
supplied with your
motor!

52
Second Outboard Motor – step 2-3/8
Use Motor Body Main and Propeller with Mark 2

3x M3x10

Mark 2

Mark 2

3x M3x20

53
Second Outboard Motor – step 4/8
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with 3 wires from motor to the
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the ESC. Make extension
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel! wires 40cm long

54
Second Outboard Motor – step 5/8
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!

1x M3x16

55
Second Outboard Motor – test only in the
water!
If you want to test the assembled
motor, test it only with the
propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller
may melt and jam in the channel!

Must always be
underwater!
Second Outboard Motor – step 6/8
For Right Motor Use Motor
Mount with Mark 2

10x M3x8

2x M3x16 2x M3x10

Mark 2

2x M3x16
57
Second Outboard Motor – step 7/8

2x M3x16

First Motor with files


( Motor Body Main,
Propeller and Motor
Mount B).

Bottom View
Second Motor with files
( Motor Body Main 2,
Propeller 2 and Motor
Mount B 2).

58
Second Outboard Motor – step 8/8
For the right setting of the Two motors, you have to move with Servo
Mount. If you move it in the Blue direction, motors will move apart. If
you move it in the Orange direction, motors will move together.

You have to set motors little bit together, not apart.


Motors

Servo mount
59
Skippy – Electronics and wire layout
In this procedure you will assemble the electronics and route the wires.

For the One Outboard motor You have to use One ESC.

For for Two Outboard Motors:


- we recommend use Two ESC and Y-cable from Battery to the ESC.
- If you have a transmitter which can be programmed, You must set the two
channels to the Throttle, but if you don't have this solution, You have to use
Y-cable from Receiver to ESCs.

Second motor must had reverse spin of the propeller!!!

60
Electronics and wires layout for One Outboard Motor

ESC (speed 2 wires from ESC Steering Servo


battery
controller) to the battery location

ESC
switch

3 wires from ESC Motor


receiver Steering servo cable
to the motor location

61
Electronics and wires layout for Two Outboard Motors

First ESC (speed 2 wires from ESCs 3 wires from ESC to Steering Servo
Battery
controller) to the battery the First Motor location

First ESC
switch
Second
ESC switch

Receiver

Second ESC (speed 3 wires from ESC to Motor


Steering servo cable
controller) the Second Motor location

62
Skippy – Cockpit
In this procedure you will assemble the cockpit.

Required print plates:

● “Print 15 - Cockpit 1”
● “Print 16 - Cockpit 2”
● “Print 17 - Cockpit 3 - Dashboard Gauges”
● “Print 18 - Cockpit 4 - Windshield”
● “Print 19 - Cockpit 5 - Floor Insert”
● “Print 20 - Superstructure Deck”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x8: 3 pcs.

63
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!

supports marked in
red has to be removed

64
Superstructure - Windshield
If you will print the part “Windshield” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided gcode, please use following
slicer setup:

● Layer height: 0.2 - 0.3mm

65
Dashboard Gauges
You can print Dashboard Gauges with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes in
layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

Floor Insert Front:

● Change filament at Layer 74 - height 11,15mm


● Layer color before change: black
● Layer color after change: white
● Change filament at Layer 77 - height 11,6mm
● Layer color after change: black

66
Floor Insert Front & Floor Insert Middle
You can print Floor Insert Front and Floor Insert Middle with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup
filament changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

Floor Insert Front: Floor Insert Middle:

● Change filament at Layer 14 - height 2,15mm ● Change filament at Layer 14 - height 2,15mm
● Layer color before change: white ● Layer color before change: white
● Layer color after change: wood ● Layer color after change: whood
● Change filament at Layer 17 - height 2,6mm
● Layer color after change: black

67
Cockpit – step 1/7

1x M3x8

68
Cockpit – step 2/7

69
Cockpit – step 3-4/7

1x M3x8

70
Cockpit – step 5-6/7

filament

11mm

71
Cockpit – step 7/7

1x M3x8

72
Skippy – Seats
In this procedure you will assemble the seats.

Required print plates:

● “Print 21 - Seats 1”
● “Print 22 - Seats 2”
● “Print 23 - Seats 3”

Non-printed parts:

● Screw M3x6: 4 pcs.

73
Seat Back Insert B
You can print Seat Back Insert B with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes
in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):

● Change filament at Layer 13 - height 2mm


● Layer color before change: white
● Layer color after change: black

74
Seats – step 1/4

75
Seats – step 2/4

2x M3x6

2x M3x6

76
Seats – step 3/4

77
Seats – step 4/4

78
Seats extraction

1. push

2. pull

1. push

79
You can check for water in the boat after the ride

Place for ESC switch

80
Skippy – finish

81
Skippy – waterline
Place the boat in the water and check the level of submersion. If
the decorative filaments (in the rear and middle hull) are not
aligned with the water's surface, you can add ballast (0 - 100
grams) to the front section of the hull under the front seat.

82
Skippy – before storing the boat after a trip on the water

After use, apply a small amount of spray


lubricant to preserve the electric motor
that has been in contact with water.
This step is only to limit engine corrosion!

83
Skippy – where to use an RC boat
While RC cars can be used anywhere, RC boats are a little more limiting.

Ponds with fresh water

Ponds are ideal for beginners as there’s little chance of your boat getting lost. If it runs out of battery or capsizes,
you can easily get it back. Ponds are also calm and quiet, making your RC easier to control.

Swimming Pools

For beginners and kids, swimming pools are ideal. If you have a pool yourself then great. There is no chance of
you losing your RC and you can play with it in the pool which is perfect for kids.

Rivers

If you have slightly more experience, a river is a great option. Ensure you judge the flow of the water and make
sure you have adequate control, especially if the river flows out to sea.

Lakes with fresh water

While lakes are static and usually very calm, they are large and you are more likely to lose your boat than if you
play in a pond.

84
Skippy – general tips

● Always use a proper battery charger. Bad charging of the Li-Pol battery may lead to a risk of fire!
● Disconnect the battery when the model is not used. The small switch on the ESC doesn't
disconnect the battery and the ESC may draw a small amount of current even in OFF-state and can
fully empty your battery in few days, which can lead to battery damage.
● If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with the propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!

85

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