Build Guide - 3D Sets Skippy - Boat v1.1.0
Build Guide - 3D Sets Skippy - Boat v1.1.0
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Version 1.1.0
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3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0 technical specs.
● Dimensions: 53.5 cm length, 23.8 cm width, 23 cm height
● Model weights roughly 1.7 kg (including battery)
● One or Two Outboard motor
● Ready for color printing – by changing filament colors during print or inserting visible filaments in the slots
● No glue used; all parts holds together by metric M3 screws. No tiny M2 used.
● Fast build suitable for kids with help of adults.
● Ready for Radio Control (need to be purchased independently)
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3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0 changelog
Changelog:
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Before you start
● Get ready all tools.
● Buy necessary parts that cannot be printed (screws, motor etc.), these parts are listed on next page.
● Make sure that your printer is calibrated well – print our “Water Tightness Test” to ensure that you can fit
bearings on shafts properly! Water Tightness Test is located on “Print 0 - Water Tightness Test”.
● Use higher printing temperatures – use about 210-215°C for PLA to have firm layer adhesion!
● Build guide is divided on steps and subassemblies. Subassembly is a sequence, where you will make some
independent sub-part like gearbox, axles etc. Later you will install subassembly in the boat.
It is not mandatory to use soldering equipment to make all electronics working. You can buy “faston” connectors
which will replace soldering of wires.
4
Are you new to the Radio Controlled
models?
Don’t worry, Radio Controlled (RC) models are not as complicated as they can look! However, it’s a good to know
some basics before you will start buying parts.
Most mechanical parts in our products will be 3d printed on your own printer, so we will focus here on RC
electronics.
If you have any questions regarding our models, feel free to ask us (or other 3dsets
builders) on our Facebook discussion group, available here: Facebook – 3D Sets
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3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0: What do you need?
● LINKS for PARTS PURCHASE! ➡ list of required non-printed parts is here (continuously updated): click for non-printed parts spreadsheet
● Print Filament: To print this model you will need around 1500 g of print filament in total. We print our models from PLA material. You can use
variable color for chassis and body. Tested and recommended filament: Fillamentum PLA Extrafill or Prusament PLA.
● The recommended drive is a brushless motor (with ∅ 28 mm diameter and 30 mm maximum(!) length) – 1300kV
● Steering servo in standard size (39x19,5x38,5mm) – waterproof & Servo extension cable (∼20 cm long)
● Speed controller (ESC) max size 40x30x25mm – waterproof
● cables & soldering equipment – for extending wires from ESC to motor
● 11.1 Battery with dimensions max 140x48x26mm
● Electric connectors: 2 pairs (battery connectors, motor <–> ESC connectors)
● Twin cable & soldering equipment
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3D Sets Skippy – Boat – version 1.1.0: Required hardware
● M3x6: 22 pcs.
● M3x8: 21 pcs.
● M3x10: 28 pcs.
● M3x16: 19 pcs.
● M3x20: 2 pcs.
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Check watertightness of your prints!
"Print 0" is an important test that you should perform before printing the major sections of the boat's hull. Test the
waterproofing only on the specific parts we supplied with distinct shapes! After loading the file into the slicer, double-check
the print settings!
Try a test print. Print it and check whether water penetrates into the test piece. Submerge the entire piece in a container
of water for approximately 10 minutes. If you see continuous escaping bubbles, it may indicate water penetration into the
hollow part. Remove the piece from the water, dry it, and try shaking it. If you hear or feel water inside the piece, it is not
waterproof, which could pose problems during the operation of the boat model.
Tip: You can repeat the waterproofing test with a different type of filament (PLA, PETG), from a different brand, etc.
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Skippy – Boat Stand
In this procedure you will assemble the boat stand.
Non-printed parts:
9
Boat Stand
If you will print the part “Boat Stand” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided .gcode, please use following
slicer setup:
10
Boat Stand – step 1/1
2x M3x10
2x M3x10
11
Skippy – Hull
In this procedure you will assemble the Hull of the boat.
Before printing Hull parts, check the watertightness of your prints! See page 8.
Required print plates:
●
●
●
●
●
"Print 3 - Hull Front”
“Print 4 - Hull Middle”
“Print 5 - Hull Rear”
“Print 6 - Hull Details 1”
“Print 7 - Hull Details 2”
!
● “Print 13B - Second Outboard Motor 1”
Non-printed parts:
12
Hull
If you will print the part “Hull” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided .gcode, please use following slicer
setup:
13
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
14
Hull – step 1/9
Filament
cut alignment pins
18 mm
from 1.75 mm filament max.
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Hull – step 2/9
Don’t use electric screwdriver for tightening screws – be gentle to not break screw holes!
2x M3x10
2x M3x10 3x M3x16
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Hull – step 3/9
Filament
cut alignment pins
18mm
max.
from 1.75 mm filament
17
Hull – step 4/9
Don’t use electric screwdriver for tightening screws – be gentle to not break screw holes!
3x M3x16
2x M3x10
2x M3x10
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Motor choice
There are two different Motor options for Skippy:
For One Motor, proceed to next page 20. For Two Motor, proceed to page 21.
19
Hull – step 5/9 – One Outboard Motor
4x M3x10
2x M3x16
20
Hull – step 5/9 – Two Outboard Motors
8x M3x10
2x M3x16
21
Hull – step 6/9
1. 2. 3.
1x M3x16
1x M3x6
1.
2.
3.
1x M3x6
22
Hull – step 7/9
Use color
filaments:
6x
Use color
filaments:
6x
23
Hull – step 8/9
4x M3x6
24
Hull – step 9/9
2x M3x16
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Skippy – Superstructure Sporty look
In this procedure you will assemble the superstructure – sporty look.
● “Print 8a - Superstructure 1”
● “Print 11 - Superstructure 2”
● “Print 12 - Superstructure 3 - Text Skippy”
Non-printed parts:
26
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
27
Superstructure - Skippy text
You can print Superstructure - Skippy text with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament
changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
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Superstructure Sporty look – 1/3
2x M3x6
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Superstructure Sporty look – 2/3
4x M3x6
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Superstructure Sporty look – 3/3
2x M3x6
2x M3x6
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Skippy – Superstructure – Utility look
In this procedure you will assemble the superstructure – utility look.
● “Print 8b - Superstructure 1”
● “Print 9 - Superstructure - Beacon”
● “Print 10 - Superstructure - Radar”
● “Print 11 - Superstructure 2”
● “Print 12 - Superstructure 3 - Text Skippy”
Non-printed parts:
32
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
33
Superstructure - Skippy text
You can print Superstructure - Skippy text with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament
changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
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Beacom & Radar
You can print Beacom and Radar s with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes
in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
Beacom: Radar:
● Change filament at Layer 81 - height 12,2mm ● Change filament at Layer 9 - height 1,4mm
● Layer color before change: black ● Layer color before change: red
● Layer color after change: white ● Layer color after change: black
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Superstructure Utility look – 1/4
2x M3x6
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Superstructure Utility look– 2/4
2x M3x6
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Superstructure Utility look – 3/4
4x M3x6
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Superstructure Utility look – 4/4
2x M3x6
2x M3x6
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Motor choice
There are two different Motor options for Skippy:
For One Motor, continue to 49, then skip to 60. For Two Motor, continue step by step (skip 48
and 49).
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Skippy – Outboard Motor
In this procedure you will assemble the Outboard Motor.
Non-printed parts:
41
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
42
Outboard Motor – step 1/7
4x M3x8
correct wires
routing position
Use screws
supplied with your
motor!
43
Outboard Motor – step 2-3/7
3x M3x10
3x M3x20
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Outboard Motor – step 4/7
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with 3 wires from motor to the
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the ESC. Make extension
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel! wires 40cm long
45
Outboard Motor – step 5/7
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!
1x M3x16
46
Outboard Motor – test only in the water!
If you want to test the assembled
motor, test it only with the
propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller
may melt and jam in the channel!
Must always be
underwater!
Outboard Motor – step 6/7
5x M3x8
1x M3x16 1x M3x10
1x M3x16
48
Outboard Motor – step 7/7
1x M3x16
49
Skippy – Second Outboard Motor
In this procedure you will assemble the Second Outboard Motor.
50
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
51
Second Outboard Motor – step 1/8
4x M3x8
correct wires
routing position
Use screws
supplied with your
motor!
52
Second Outboard Motor – step 2-3/8
Use Motor Body Main and Propeller with Mark 2
3x M3x10
Mark 2
Mark 2
3x M3x20
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Second Outboard Motor – step 4/8
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with 3 wires from motor to the
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the ESC. Make extension
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel! wires 40cm long
54
Second Outboard Motor – step 5/8
If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with
the propeller submerged in water! Without water, the
boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!
1x M3x16
55
Second Outboard Motor – test only in the
water!
If you want to test the assembled
motor, test it only with the
propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller
may melt and jam in the channel!
Must always be
underwater!
Second Outboard Motor – step 6/8
For Right Motor Use Motor
Mount with Mark 2
10x M3x8
2x M3x16 2x M3x10
Mark 2
2x M3x16
57
Second Outboard Motor – step 7/8
2x M3x16
Bottom View
Second Motor with files
( Motor Body Main 2,
Propeller 2 and Motor
Mount B 2).
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Second Outboard Motor – step 8/8
For the right setting of the Two motors, you have to move with Servo
Mount. If you move it in the Blue direction, motors will move apart. If
you move it in the Orange direction, motors will move together.
Servo mount
59
Skippy – Electronics and wire layout
In this procedure you will assemble the electronics and route the wires.
For the One Outboard motor You have to use One ESC.
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Electronics and wires layout for One Outboard Motor
ESC
switch
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Electronics and wires layout for Two Outboard Motors
First ESC (speed 2 wires from ESCs 3 wires from ESC to Steering Servo
Battery
controller) to the battery the First Motor location
First ESC
switch
Second
ESC switch
Receiver
62
Skippy – Cockpit
In this procedure you will assemble the cockpit.
● “Print 15 - Cockpit 1”
● “Print 16 - Cockpit 2”
● “Print 17 - Cockpit 3 - Dashboard Gauges”
● “Print 18 - Cockpit 4 - Windshield”
● “Print 19 - Cockpit 5 - Floor Insert”
● “Print 20 - Superstructure Deck”
Non-printed parts:
63
Postprocessing – removing supports
Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific
parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very
careful as you can harm yourself!
supports marked in
red has to be removed
64
Superstructure - Windshield
If you will print the part “Windshield” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided gcode, please use following
slicer setup:
65
Dashboard Gauges
You can print Dashboard Gauges with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes in
layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
66
Floor Insert Front & Floor Insert Middle
You can print Floor Insert Front and Floor Insert Middle with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup
filament changes in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
● Change filament at Layer 14 - height 2,15mm ● Change filament at Layer 14 - height 2,15mm
● Layer color before change: white ● Layer color before change: white
● Layer color after change: wood ● Layer color after change: whood
● Change filament at Layer 17 - height 2,6mm
● Layer color after change: black
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Cockpit – step 1/7
1x M3x8
68
Cockpit – step 2/7
69
Cockpit – step 3-4/7
1x M3x8
70
Cockpit – step 5-6/7
filament
11mm
71
Cockpit – step 7/7
1x M3x8
72
Skippy – Seats
In this procedure you will assemble the seats.
● “Print 21 - Seats 1”
● “Print 22 - Seats 2”
● “Print 23 - Seats 3”
Non-printed parts:
73
Seat Back Insert B
You can print Seat Back Insert B with filament changes to achieve color results. Please, setup filament changes
in layer heights described below (setup is for layer height 0,15mm):
74
Seats – step 1/4
75
Seats – step 2/4
2x M3x6
2x M3x6
76
Seats – step 3/4
77
Seats – step 4/4
78
Seats extraction
1. push
2. pull
1. push
79
You can check for water in the boat after the ride
80
Skippy – finish
81
Skippy – waterline
Place the boat in the water and check the level of submersion. If
the decorative filaments (in the rear and middle hull) are not
aligned with the water's surface, you can add ballast (0 - 100
grams) to the front section of the hull under the front seat.
82
Skippy – before storing the boat after a trip on the water
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Skippy – where to use an RC boat
While RC cars can be used anywhere, RC boats are a little more limiting.
Ponds are ideal for beginners as there’s little chance of your boat getting lost. If it runs out of battery or capsizes,
you can easily get it back. Ponds are also calm and quiet, making your RC easier to control.
Swimming Pools
For beginners and kids, swimming pools are ideal. If you have a pool yourself then great. There is no chance of
you losing your RC and you can play with it in the pool which is perfect for kids.
Rivers
If you have slightly more experience, a river is a great option. Ensure you judge the flow of the water and make
sure you have adequate control, especially if the river flows out to sea.
While lakes are static and usually very calm, they are large and you are more likely to lose your boat than if you
play in a pond.
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Skippy – general tips
● Always use a proper battery charger. Bad charging of the Li-Pol battery may lead to a risk of fire!
● Disconnect the battery when the model is not used. The small switch on the ESC doesn't
disconnect the battery and the ESC may draw a small amount of current even in OFF-state and can
fully empty your battery in few days, which can lead to battery damage.
● If you want to test the assembled motor, test it only with the propeller submerged in water!
Without water, the boat propeller may melt and jam in the channel!
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