Pie Simpliwed with Biscuits, Mufwns, Scones + More

Press-In Crusts Seasonal Quick Breads

FROM SCRATCH ® SWEET POTATO

SPICE CAKE WITH
Recipes + Ideas for TOASTED MERINGUE
page 79
Amazing Autumn
Bakes

HARVEST-
FRESH
ors
fwithlavApple,
Pear, Sweet
Potato &
Pumpkin

Beautifully
Braided Challah
Loaves + Easy
Twisted Knots

#thebakefeed
SEPT/OCT 2023 VOLUME 9, ISSUE 5

$14.99US $16.99CAN
10

+ FEATURING
0 09128 01695 5 Origin of a Classic: Sticky Toffee Pudding
DISPLAY UNTIL NOV. 6, 2023
table of contents

17 Bakers Gonna Bake: Exploring Local Flavors

Inspirational cookbooks, a sweet travel treat,
27 From the Pantry: Apples
Learn more about this classic autumnal produce
and an essential cake tool and imagine the crisp, juicy confections they will
become

19 Baker Spotlight: Generationally Grown

Hollis English of Murphy’s Farm Market 31 Baker Profile: With Love from Vermont
& Bakery shares her love of baking and Gesine Bullock-Prado shares how her beloved
running her family farm home inspired her cookbook, My Vermont Table,
fond memories of baking, and a simply delicious
Bundt recipe
21 From the Test Kitchen: All Buttered Up
We’re spreading the details on types of butter,
how the color of butter can affect your bakes,
and what to look for when buying butter
37 Bread Box: Giving Rise to Rough Puff
Danish and loaf bread that’s buttery soft inside and
golden-brown crisp outside

25 Lost & Found: Rugelach Recollections

Morgan Peaceman shares her beloved 41 THE ESSENTIAL . . . CHALLAH
grandmother’s rugelach recipe and the Master challah, a slightly sweet enriched bread with
memories they evoke every time she bakes a pillowy crumb, with our step-by-step guide
them

3 bake from scratch

53 ALL ABOUT APPLES
These alluring desserts spotlight sweet-tart,
91 PUTT AND HIS PECANS
Putt Wetherbee of Schermer Pecans reflects on
crunchy apples in all their glory his family’s company and shares what’s in store for
the future

63 DAZZLING PRESS-IN PIES

Pies pronto thanks to press-in crusts—no
rolling required!
103 Origin of a Classic: Sticky Toffee Pudding
Discover the not-so-long-ago history of this
decadent treat and indulge in our take on it

71 FALLING IN LOVE WITH FALL CAKES

Decadent cakes bursting with your favorite
autumnal flavors
107 Small Batch: A Little Something Sweet
A perfectly portioned and spiced sweet roll

81 A BOUNTY OF QUICK BREADS

Sweet and savory breads that rise to any
109 Fast-Fix Baking: Fragrant Fall Bakes
Jessie Sheehan’s quick ways with cinnamon rolls and
occasion doughnuts

september | october 2023 4

 ADVERTISING

POLENTA BREAD & CREAMYGORG®

Preheating your cast-iron skillet is the trick to achieving a crunchy bottom crust and a moist, tender interior.
The mild sweetness of the polenta beautifully complements the bold flavor of BelGioioso CreamyGorg® Cheese,
and it’s so rich and soft that it practically spreads itself onto a slice of hot bread.

Makes 1 (10-inch) loaf 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk,

eggs, and honey. Carefully pour melted butter from
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter hot skillet into buttermilk mixture; whisk well. Whisk
2 cups (280 grams) yellow polenta or buttermilk mixture into flour mixture until just
medium-grind plain cornmeal combined. Carefully spread batter into hot skillet.
1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted into center
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder comes out clean, 25 to 27 minutes. Let cool in skillet
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Serve immediately with
2½ cups (600 grams) whole buttermilk BelGioioso CreamyGorg® Cheese.
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
1 tablespoon (21 grams) honey* *Drizzle bread and cheese with a touch of honey for a
1 (8-ounce) container (226 grams) sweeter flavor.
BelGioioso CreamyGorg® Cheese

1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).

2. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, place butter;
place skillet in oven until butter is melted and
skillet is hot, about 5 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together polenta or
cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt.
 FROM SCRATCH
september | october 2023 Volume 9, Issue 5

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nancy Meeks ADMINISTRATIVE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Amber Wilson Tracy Wood-Franklin
ASSISTANT EDITOR Chessa Parker SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Cailyn Haynes
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg ART DIRECTOR Liz Kight
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Christina Fleisch GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Jessie Sheehan
SENIOR ST YLISTSidney Bragiel
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY ST YLISTSMaghan Armstrong, Courtni Bodiford,
Mac Jamieson Lucy Finney, Maggie Hill, Mary Beth Jones,
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Donna Nichols
John O’Hagan
PHOTOGRAPHERS TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
Jim Bathie, Kyle Carpenter, FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
Stephanie Welbourne Steele
Ola Agbodza, Aaron Conrad, Katie Moon Dickerson,
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Nicholas Gregory, Kathleen Kanen, Vanessa Rocchio,
Delisa McDaniel Amanda Stabile, Izzie Turner
TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT/PREP COOK
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore
Madison Harvel

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING COORDINATOR Morgan Barbay PRODUCTION/CIRCUL ATION MANAGER
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay Samantha Sullivan
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Charlotte Gibens
DIGITAL EDITOR Stephanie Welbourne Steele

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS MARKETING DIRECTOR Lindsay Jones Edmonds

Christy Chachere Lohmann [AL, AR, LA, MS, TX] EVENT MARKETING MANAGER Mandy Pettit
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Janet Tipton [CA, CT, ME, MA, NH, NJ, NY, Kimberly Lewis
OR, RI, TX, VT] GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer

For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

PRESIDENT/CEO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman

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Greg Baugh VP/TECHNOLOGY Matthew Scott Holt
EVP/FINANCE Laura Sappington VP/HUMAN RESOURCES AND ADMINISTRATION
VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson Judy Brown Lazenby
VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT VP/ADVERTISING Amy Robertson
Brooke Michael Bell

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE

2323 2nd Avenue North Bake from Scratch, PO Box 5002
Birmingham, AL 35203 Boone, IA 50950
Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]
Phone: (205) 995-8860 Phone: (888) 647-7304

Bake from Scratch ISSN 2472-0089 is published bimonthly by Hoffman Media, LLC, 2323 2nd Avenue North, Birmingham, AL 35203. The cover and contents of Bake from Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot
be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. Subscription Rates: For the United States, $39.95 per year, 6 issues, add $10 for postage in Canada, add $20 elsewhere. Single
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©2023 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.
 EXPERTLY TESTED RECIPES
FEATURING PREMIUM INGREDIENTS

We pride ourselves on using the finest ingredients, and

BelGioioso® Cheese gets us there one ingredient faster.
Whether you’re baking, cooking, or snacking, they provide
unmatched premium Italian-style cheeses. From bold, flavor-
filled aged varieties to soft, creamy, fresh spreadable cheeses,
BelGioioso® brings the JOY by providing excellence in every bite.

There’s something about a homemade treat that puts a smile

on our faces, and that’s exactly why Bonne Maman is our
go-to for preserves and fruit spreads. Made with simple and
natural ingredients of the finest quality, Bonne Maman’s
wide variety of fruit preserves, jellies, and artisan spreads
The recipes in each issue pass through ensures our from-scratch recipes taste fresh.
the Bake from Scratch test kitchen.
Each is flavorful and distinctive
and developed with your
kitchen success in mind.

These products are partners of Whether we’re creating a simple cookie or laminated pastry,
C&H® Sugar is a staple in our test kitchen. Their granulated,
Bake from Scratch magazine and brown sugar, and powdered sugar are perfect for all types of
used exclusively in our recipes. baked goods, and we know we can count on C&H® Sugar to
provide the perfect sweet balance with every grain.

When using Red Star® yeast in our recipes, we can rest easy
knowing we have a reliable product to take our breads from
ordinary to sensational. No matter the type of yeast,
Red Star® provides consistent performance to make all
our yeasted bakes a success.

With their commitment to producing a superior product,

Schermer Pecans are the only pecans we bake with. This
family-run company oversees every activity on their
orchards, from growing and harvesting to packaging and
shipping to ensure fresh taste and quality for maximum
crunch and flavor.
from the editor
AN ODE TO AUTUMN
This time of year is more than just leaves changing colors,
pumpkin spice lattes, and breaking out your cozy sweaters.
There’s something about fall that has bakers running to their
ovens, and here at Bake from Scratch, we are no different.

By the time you’re reading this, I’ll be exploring the

markets in Paris and Burgundy, France, with fellow bakers
and teaching with Erin Jeanne McDowell in the Bake from
Scratch test kitchen in Birmingham during our fall baking
retreats. Even with the hustle and bustle of traveling,
my mind and heart are in a perpetual state of cozy with
thoughts of warming spices wafting from the kitchen
and crisp, mottled apples lining my countertop with their
inviting autumnal hues, begging to be transformed into
countless sweet treats. Our From the Pantry column
on page 27 guides you through the differences of apple
varieties and which are best suited for a particular bake,
which you’ll find by the bushel in this issue.

This change of season always makes me feel a strong

sense of community as I reflect on how grateful I am that
our love of baking has united us. I am overwhelmed with the Then there are those relationships with trusted brands we’ve
friends we’ve made along the way; some are now old friends, used for years in our kitchen, and some of those bonds have
as we’ve cultivated relationships for many years. Bake from been so strong they resulted in beloved partnerships along
Scratch has allowed us to connect with bakers worldwide; the way. I’m so proud of Schermer Pecans being the official
we never take this for granted. We promise to continue Bake from Scratch pecan; they’re a family that I am honored
inspiring, teaching, and sharing recipes that remain steadfast to know. My freezer is always full of their nuts, especially this
in your home. Many of our baker friends we’ve made have time of year. Their products make baking easier, delicious, and
been featured on these pages, and this issue has some beautiful, which you can read all about on page 91.
extraordinary friends we’d love to introduce you to!
This issue is truly an ode to autumn. From our crowd-pleasing
I have known Hollis English and her family for a long time, chewy cookie sandwiches and gooey sweet rolls to piled-high
ever since the magazine’s first baking retreat, and I’m so fruit pies and decadent spiced cakes, I hope you enjoy baking
excited to include her and her family’s special farm on page your way through these colorful pages as much as we enjoyed
19. Celebrating old friendships is something very important to creating them for you.
me, but I’m happy to include new friends in this issue such as
Morgan Peaceman, who shares a beloved handed-down family And remember, bake it your way!
recipe on page 25, and Gesine Bullock-Prado on page 31,
whom some of you might also remember from a summer class
of Baking School with Williams Sonoma. These friends and
relationships are what help the baking community thrive as we Brian Hart Hoffman
connect and share inspiration with each another. Editor-in-Chief

Visit bakefromscratch.com and follow us for daily baking inspiration.

Bake from Scratch The Crumb @thebakefeed

9 bake from scratch

 Learn more from the comfort of
your own home in Baking School.
Join Bake from Scratch magazine and Williams Sonoma for a virtual
baking class series that will boost your confidence in the kitchen.
In each class, Brian Hart Hoffman will share baking tips, tricks, and
recipes that you will want to re-create at home for family and friends!

Purchase your ticket at williams-sonoma.squadup.com

MISSED A BAKING SCHOOL CLASS?

-DEMAND -DEMAND -DEMAND -DEMAND
ON ON ON ON
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BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL
Unvamped Chocolate Baking School In-Depth: Breakfast Baking Apple Pie Baking
Chip Cookies Sourdough Bread WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN & BROOKE BELL WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN
WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN & BELLE ENGLISH WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

Upvamped Chocolate Baking School In-Depth: Breakfast Baking Apple Pie Baking
Chip Cookies Sourdough Bread

View past past classes at bakefromscratch.com/ondemand

 ADVERTISING

HAZELNUT-CHOCOLATE TART
With a nutty, buttery press-in crust and a decadently rich filling featuring Bonne Maman® Hazelnut Chocolate Spread,
this impressive tart requires surprisingly little effort to make yet yields stunningly beautiful and delicious results.

Makes 1 (9-inch) tart

1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour

1 cup (96 grams) hazelnut flour (see Note)
¼ cup (30 grams) confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
1 (12.7-ounce) jar (360 grams) Bonne Maman® Hazelnut
Chocolate Spread
⅔ cup (160 grams) heavy whipping cream
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter, softened
Garnish: chopped toasted hazelnuts

1. Spray a 9-inch round fluted removable-bottom

tart pan with baking spray with flour.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flours,
confectioners’ sugar, and salt. Add cold butter;
using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in butter
until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir
in egg until dry ingredients are moistened.
Press dough into bottom and up sides of
prepared pan. Refrigerate until firm,
about 20 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
4. Top prepared crust with a piece of
parchment paper. Add pie weights.
5. Bake until edges are just set,
15 to 20 minutes. Carefully remove
parchment and weights. Bake until
bottom of crust is dry and lightly
browned, 5 to 10 minutes more. Let
cool completely in pan on a wire rack.
6. In a medium microwave-safe
bowl, combine hazelnut chocolate
spread, cream, and softened butter.
Heat on high in 30-second intervals,
stirring between each, until butter is
melted, hazelnut chocolate spread has
thinned, and mixture starts to come
together. Gently stir until combined,
avoiding incorporating air into mixture.
Immediately spread mixture into
cooled tart shell. Refrigerate until
filling is set, 3 to 4 hours. Garnish with
hazelnuts, if desired. Refrigerate in an
airtight container for up to 3 days.

Note: If you cannot find hazelnut flour,

process 1 cup (130 grams) skinned
whole hazelnuts in a food processor
until finely ground.
 recipe index Sweet Potato Spice
Cake with Toasted
BARS AND COOKIES CAKES Meringue
Apple Butter Sandwich Cookies 62 Apple Spice Layer Cake 61 page 79
Caramel Apple Cheesecake Bars 60 Browned Butter Cake with PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Cream Cheese Rugelach 26 Spiced Orange Buttercream 78 KYLE CARPENTER

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
Vanilla Chai Spice Crinkle Cookies 14 Cookie Butter Pound Cake 78 AMANDA STABILE
Maple Bundt 36 FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
BATTERS AND DOUGHS Pear-Ricotta Cake 79 STYLING BY
All-Butter Piecrust 62 Spiced Oat Cake 79 MARY BETH JONES
Chocolate Chip Cookie Crust 70 Sticky Toffee Pudding 106
Yeasted Rough Puff Pastry 39 Sweet Potato Spice Cake with
Toasted Meringue 79
BREADS
Apple-Cheddar-Sage Biscuits 89 FILLINGS, FROSTINGS, AND PASTRIES
Apple Cider Doughnut Loaf 86 TOPPINGS Caramel Apple Cream Puffs 59
Challah 43 Apple Butter Buttercream 62 Cranberry Danish 39
Cranberry-Sage Fantails 15 Apple Compote 59
Cream Cheese-Filled Pecan Pie Buttermilk Glaze 108 PIES AND TARTS
Muffins 87 Cookie Butter Glaze 78 Apple Crumb Pie 66
Croissant French Bread 40 Cranberry Compote 40 Brookie Pie 70
Honey-Apple Challah Knots 50 Cream Cheese Filling 87 Deep-Dish Apple Galette 62
Pecan-Maple-Bourbon Sticky Creamy Vanilla-Orange Frosting 14 Deep-Dish Pecan-Pumpkin Pie 102
Buns 98 Orange-Cardamom Buttercream 78 Fig Cheesecake Pie 68
Polenta Bread & CreamyGorg® 5 Pecan Pie Glaze 87 Hazelnut-Chocolate Tart 11
Pumpkin-Chocolate Swirl Bread 86 Salted Caramel Sauce 60
Pumpkin Doughnut Holes 111 Spiced Apple Topping 61
Quick Apple Cinnamon Buns 113 Spiced Buttercream 80
Spiced Apple Scones 90 Spiced Streusel 87
Streusel-Topped Baked Sweet Potato Swiss Meringue 79
Bread 87 Toffee Sauce 106
Sweet Potato-Pecan Sweet Roll 108 Vanilla Bean Buttercream 61

resources
Pages 31–36—Photography by Raymond G. Prado
Pages 91–96 and 99–100—Photography by Drew Balfour (Putt and dog; Putt, daughters, and dog; buckets and hands sorting nuts); Eley (nuts on branches with hands; Putt
bending over; Putt and red harvesting machine; man in control room; pecan bagging machine); and Gabriel Hanway (trees in orchard; man in bed of red truck; pecans in hands;
nut cluster on branch; yellow harvesting machine; pecans on conveyor belt).

13 bake from scratch

 ADVERTISING

VANILLA CHAI SPICE CRINKLE COOKIES

Incorporating warm spices, rich molasses, and aromatic Heilala Vanilla, these cookies are a unique
take on the classic crinkle. All that’s left is to slather a citrus zest- and vanilla bean-flecked frosting
onto the vanilla sugar-coated craggy tops, and you’ve got your favorite cookie for the season.
Makes 24 cookies 3. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
4. Roll dough into 1½-inch balls (38 grams each).
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened Roll dough balls in vanilla sugar, and place 2 inches apart
¼ cup (50 grams) all-vegetable shortening on prepared pans. Flatten dough balls into 2-inch disks.
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
¼ cup (85 grams) unsulphured molasses 6. Bake, one pan at a time, until puffed and set, 10 to
1 tablespoon (13 grams) Heilala Pure Vanilla Extract 12 minutes. Let cool on pans for 5 minutes. Remove from
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour pans, and let cool completely on wire racks.
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon 7. Using an offset spatula, spread Creamy Vanilla-Orange Frosting
1¼ teaspoons (6.25 grams) baking soda onto cookies. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground ginger CREAMY VANILLA-ORANGE FROSTING
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom Makes about 3 cups
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams) cream cheese, softened
⅓ cup (66 grams) Heilala Pure Vanilla Sugar ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
Creamy Vanilla-Orange Frosting (recipe follows) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed orange zest
4 cups (480 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, 1 tablespoon (18 grams) Heilala Pure Vanilla Bean Paste
beat butter, shortening, and brown sugar at medium speed until
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add egg, 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
beating well. Beat in molasses and vanilla. attachment, beat cream cheese, butter, and orange zest at
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cinnamon, baking high speed until smooth and creamy, stopping to scrape sides
soda, salt, ginger, cardamom, cloves, and pepper. With mixer of bowl. Add confectioners’ sugar and vanilla bean paste, and
on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beat at low speed until well combined, stopping to scrape sides
beating until combined. Cover and refrigerate until firm, of bowl. Increase mixer speed to high, and beat until light and
about 1½ hours. fluffy, about 2 minutes.

20% OFF regular priced products

at heilalavanilla.com and amazon.com
with coupon code BFSFALL23
VALID THROUGH NOVEMBER 2023
 ADVERTISING

+:)6*-::A;)/-.)6<)14;
Elegant and deliciously buttery, these golden layered rolls will elevate any fall feast. Our dough gets its beautiful
height from Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®. Their shape resembles a flower in bloom, with each petal forming
a perfect pull-apart bite flecked with tart, rubied cranberries and the earthy aroma of sage.
Makes 12 rolls 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 5. Punch down dough; cover and let stand
together 1 cup (125 grams) flour, sugar, for 10 minutes.
3¼ to 3½ cups (406 to 437 grams) 1 tablespoon (9 grams) salt, yeast, poultry 6. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with baking
all-purpose flour, divided seasoning, and baking soda by hand. spray with flour.
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated 2. In a medium saucepan, heat ¾ cup 7. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
sugar (180 grams) water, sour cream, and remaining 5 tablespoons butter (71 grams)
1 tablespoon (9 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter over on high in 10-second intervals until melted.
kosher salt, divided medium-low heat, stirring frequently, 8. Divide dough in half. On a lightly floured
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) until butter is melted and an instant-read surface, roll half of dough into a 12-inch
Platinum® Yeast from Red Star® thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to square. (Keep remaining dough covered
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) poultry seasoning 130°F (54°C). Add sour cream mixture to with plastic wrap.) Brush 1 tablespoon
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda flour mixture; using the paddle attachment, (14 grams) melted butter onto dough. Cut
¾ cup (180 grams) plus 1 tablespoon beat at medium-low speed until combined, dough into 12 (6x2-inch) strips. Sprinkle
(15 grams) water, divided about 1 minute, stopping to scrape sides of ¼ cup (34 grams) cranberries onto 10 dough
½ cup (120 grams) sour cream bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually strips. Stack 5 strips with cranberries,
8 tablespoons (113 grams) unsalted add 2¼ cups (281 grams) flour and ⅓ cup cranberry side up, on top of each other;
butter, cubed and divided (9 grams) sage, beating just until combined place 1 plain strip, butter side down, on top.
⅓ cup (9 grams) plus 1 tablespoon and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Repeat with remaining 6 strips of dough.
(2 grams) finely chopped fresh sage, 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Using a floured serrated knife, cut each
divided Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, stack of dough crosswise into 3 (2-inch)
½ cup (68 grams) dried cranberries, somewhat sticky dough forms, 12 to squares. Place dough squares, cut side up,
chopped 14 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of in prepared muffin cups. Repeat procedure
1 large egg (50 grams) bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining with remaining dough, 1 tablespoon
¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted butter, and remaining
(8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. 1⁄4 cup (34 grams) cranberries. Loosely
(Dough will mostly pull away from sides of cover dough with plastic wrap, and let rise in
bowl). Turn out dough onto a lightly floured a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
surface, and shape into a smooth round. dough fills cups, 15 to 25 minutes.
4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in 9. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let 10. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water;
until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes. brush onto dough.
11. Bake until lightly browned, 12 to
15 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack
for 10 minutes. Stir remaining 1 tablespoon
(2 grams) sage into remaining melted
butter; brush onto warm rolls. Serve warm.
bakers gonna bake

EXPLORING LOCAL FLAVORS

CAKE CRASHES AVOIDED
We know that moving assembled
cakes and even plain cake layers
can be downright scary, but
have no fear with this cake lifter.
Whether moving from cooling
racks to turntables or assembling
decorated tiers on a pedestal,
this generously sized and sturdy
lifter from Nordic Ware is the
tool you need.
AVAILABLE AT:
bakefromscratch.com/shop

KEEP CLEAN AND COMFY

MAI'A IN MAUI These aprons are a favorite of
During her summer vacation to Hawai'i, Bake from Scratch our Editor-in-Chief Brian Hart
Editorial Director Nancy Meeks ate mai"a (banana) bread Hoffman. The adjustable neck and
most every day. Apple bananas, which are a smaller, waist straps allow you to fit the
sweeter, and creamier variety of banana than what’s aprons to your height for better
found in grocery stores on the mainland, grow all over the coverage, and the lightweight linen
Hawaiian islands but are particularly popular on Maui. It’s fabric is breathable so you can stay
these apple bananas, combined with other locally grown cool even when your kitchen is
produce such as pineapple, coconut, mango, macadamia heating up.
nuts, and passion fruit, that create such scrumptious AVAILABLE AT:
loaves. She found one of her favorites at Hāna Farms, bakefromscratch.com/shop
located just off the historic Hāna Highway on Maui’s
eastern coast. hanafarms.com

NEVER ENOUGH CAKE CIAO ITALIA

ANOTHER BUNDT COLLECTION CUCINA POVERA
BY BRIAN HART HOFFMAN BY GIULIA SCARPALEGGIA
Brian and the Bake from Scratch Tuscan culinary instructor and
team are back with Another Bundt food writer Giulia Scarpaleggia
Collection—because you can is all about making the most
never bake too many Bundts! This of what you already have on
book is filled with recipes for all hand. Her cookbook, Cucina
shapes and sizes of Bundt pans Povera, which translates to
and highlights a few of Brian’s “kitchen for the poor,” explores
favorite flavors and ingredients such as Strawberry Chablis culinary traditions and recipes
Cake, Milk Bread Gibassier with orange blossom water, and historically rooted in Italy’s rural peasant population. Giulia
Candied Chestnut-Pecan Cake. Whether you’re looking shares a brief history of more than 100 recipes in the book,
for classic creations in new shapes or new flavors in familiar including Apple Olive Oil Cake, Nut Biscotti, Semolina
pans, this book is full of beautiful and delicious recipes you’ll Bread, and Zuppa Inglese, an Italian-style trifle, for a baking
turn to for years to come. experience that revels in the resourceful soul of Italy.
AVAILABLE AT: bakefromscratch.com/shop AVAILABLE AT: en.julskitchen.com

17 bake from scratch

baker spotlight

GENERATIONALLY
GROWN
HOLLIS ENGLISH OF MURPHY’S FARM MARKET &
BAKERY SHARES WHY THIS CANADIAN MARKET
AND BAKERY IS A MUST-VISIT FOR HOMEMADE
PIES, COOKIES, AND BREADS

Tell us about your family’s market.

HE: My parents opened the farmstand market and bakery for the last 13 years, Pride communities. We provide several
in the ’80s, and I grew up at the farm. and I love being able to connect with the different menu items where the proceeds
I was always heavily involved in what we community and our staff as well. We have go to LGBT YouthLine, which is a
were doing at the farm. I loved the way a wonderful, incredible team in the bakery, local call-in resource for the LGBTQ
that I grew up, whether it was being on so being able to facilitate and build that community. We do a few initiatives for
the farm, being outside, or baking with my over the years has been wonderful. The the hospital that is in our town, as well as
mom. After university, I decided to return other thing that I love about the bakery is an event at Christmas that we operate
to the farm, and my siblings and I planned the packaging design. I really love working that is called Shop with a Cop. A lot
to open a scratch bakery. We wanted to with the vision of what our brand is and of the proceeds for different products
revisit what we had when we were growing designing new pie boxes and shortbread we have in the shop go toward the
up and to provide something to customers boxes. Indigenous community as well.
involving baking. We host craft fairs on the
last Sunday of the month from May until What is your favorite item at the bakery? What are some of your proudest
November, which is great because we get HE: That is the hardest question for sure. accomplishments?
lots of wonderful crafters and artisans who We have cookies, pies, and breads, but HE: The leadership growth. I’m most
come on those weekends. We also have their flavors change seasonally. In the proud that we started. We tried new
about 3 acres of space with all sorts of kids’ spring, I love Rhubarb Pie, but overall, it’s things and we made loads of mistakes,
activities and playgrounds for them to enjoy. our Raspberry Pie. It’s not super sweet. but our customers were always so
It’s a little bit tart. We have a few staples patient. I’m most proud of the goodwill
Why is baking important to you? that we make all year, raspberry being one and trust in the community that they
HE: My mom and grandmother baked of them, and then we input other seasonal have with us. For myself, I’m proud of
religiously all the time, so we grew up flavors throughout the year. But that’s the my leadership in learning how to build
very much as a big baking family. Baking one thing that we make all year long that I and manage a team, how to create
has been an adventure in learning. It’s so always love a piece of: our Raspberry Pie. a culture at work that is vibrant and
therapeutic and brings people together. respectful while still getting lots of work
It’s something that I thoroughly enjoy. Local philanthropy is important to you. accomplished, and building a place that
What are some outreach projects that you people want to be every day.
What is your favorite part about working take part in?
for the farm now? HE: Throughout the summer, we Follow the farm and Hollis on Instagram
HE: I really love the people. I love the have fundraisers for the Indigenous at @murphysfarm and @hollisenglish and
customers who have visited the farm community. In June, we support the visit murphysfarmmarket.com to learn more.
19 bake from scratch
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from the test kitchen

ALL BUTTERED UP
BUTTER IS A BAKER’S BEST FRIEND, BUT
HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR BESTIE?
BY NANCY MEEKS
Whether cut into flour for scones or piecrust, laminated Room Temperature vs. Softened
into dough for puff pastry, creamed with sugar for cakes
and cookies, or simply brushed onto a bread loaf warm These two terms may seem arbitrary or even as if they are
from the oven, butter just can’t be beat. But with so many describing the same thing, yet they are different. But first, why
options available, it can be hard to know which to choose. does butter need to be at room temperature or softened? Softened
Here’s the Bake from Scratch guide to butter. butter is ideal for creaming with sugar, meaning the two are
combined and air is incorporated into the mixture. If the butter
There are numerous brands and styles of butter to choose is too cold, not enough air will be incorporated; too warm and the
from, but all butter is created the same way: cream is mixture can collapse and bake flat.
churned or stirred until the solids and liquid separate. The
liquid is buttermilk, and the fat solids are kneaded or mixed Softened butter will hold a slight indentation when you press it with
together until they form a large, cohesive piece. Salt is your finger and should be about 65°F (18°C). Room temperature
optional, but it is frequently added to help preserve the butter will leave a deeper indentation when pressed and should be
butter and enhance taste. about 70°F (21°C). If you are making a Swiss buttercream, room
temperature butter will incorporate into the egg white mixture
more easily and faster than softened butter.

Types of Butter ROOM

AMERICAN: American butter is what we all grew up TEMPERATURE
with in the US and exactly what comes to your mind
when you hear the word “butter.” Sold in ¼-pound
rectangular sticks, this butter is 80 percent fat and
is graded AA, A, or B using standards of color, flavor,
and consistency. Grades AA and A are what you’ll
find in grocery stores. American butter tends to be
lighter in color than other butters because it has a
lower fat content. SOFTENED

AMISH: Traditional Amish butter has around

84 percent fat, which means it’s creamier in texture
and darker in color than American butter. It’s also The Heat Is On
most commonly sold in paper-wrapped 1- to 2-pound Heating butter past its melting point
logs rather than smaller sticks. Amish butter can transforms it into a few states that are
be portioned into smaller pieces, wrapped tightly in very versatile for cooking and baking,
plastic wrap, and frozen for up to a year. not to mention delicious.
BROWNED: Butter is melted and then
EUROPEAN: European butter is approximately cooked until the milk solids turn golden
82 percent fat, but that small amount can mean a brown. These browned bits take on a
big difference in texture, flavor, and color. European- rich, nutty, caramelly flavor. Find our
style butter is creamier and easier to spread than step-by-step guide to making browned
American butter and is more flavorful because of its butter at bakefromscratch.com.
higher fat content.
CLARIFIED: Butter is melted over low heat and gently simmered
IRISH: Also a European-style butter, Irish butter is until it foams as water evaporates and the white milk solids sink to
typically about 82 percent fat. Kerrygold is a favorite the bottom of the pan. The liquid is carefully poured off or strained to
brand among Irish butters, and it is the Bake from remove the milk solids, which are discarded.
Scratch test kitchen standard, meaning all our recipes GHEE: Ghee takes clarified butter a step further by continuing to
that use butter are developed with Kerrygold. Its simmer the butter after the milk solids have sunk to the bottom of
signature golden color and rich flavor are thanks to cows the pan so that more water evaporates and the milk solids turn brown.
that graze the green rolling hills of the Emerald Isle. The liquid is then strained, and the solids are discarded.

september | october 2023 22

 Color Cues
Butter comes in a variety of colors, and
there’s often no way of knowing what
color your butter is until you unwrap it at
home. But why does butter’s color matter,
you ask? When baking and creating foods
such as wedding cakes and buttercreams,
AMISH keeping the cake layers and frostings as
white as possible can be important. The
darker or more intensely yellow the butter
that you use, the more color you introduce
into the final product.

Label Lingo
You’ll find these terms on all manner of
EUROPEAN butter labels.
CULTURED: Live bacteria culture
is added to cream and left to stand
for a while before churning it into butter.
This style of butter has a slightly tangy taste.
SWEET CREAM: Most all butter is
technically sweet cream butter, meaning
IRISH it was made with fresh cream rather
than cultured cream. “Sweet cream” can
sometimes be a synonym for salted butter,
so read the label closely.
GRASS FED: Cream used to make this
butter is from cows that were able to graze
on green pastures. A grass diet indicates a
darker color to butter and a stronger flavor.
AMERICAN
LIGHT BUTTER: This is butter that was
(leading national brand)
churned with more water and air, resulting
in about 25 percent less fat than regular
American butter. It’s best for serving rather
than being used as a baking ingredient.

Salted vs. Unsalted

Almost all butters are available in unsalted
and salted versions, and salt levels in butter
will vary from brand to band. Unsalted
AMERICAN butter lets you have complete control
(national brand) over the flavor and amount of salt in your
baking, whereas salted butter stays fresher
longer than unsalted. The Bake from Scratch
AMERICAN test kitchen’s standard is unsalted butter
(national store brand) unless otherwise specified in the recipe.

23 bake from scratch

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 lost found

RUGELACH
RECOLLECTIONS
MORGAN PEACEMAN FROM NOMASTE
HUNGRY SHARES HER GRANDMOTHER’S
TREASURED RUGELACH RECIPE
BY MORGAN PEACEMAN

25 bake from scratch

O
ne of my fondest memories of my grandmother was CREAM CHEESE RUGELACH
baking cookies every fall. We made at least 15 different Makes about 40 cookies
varieties of cookies, and as she made them, we would
divide them into small tins on her living room table. These tins would Recipe by Morgan Peaceman
be hand-delivered to neighbors, teachers, and friends. Her baking
These beloved rugelach have a hint of sweet apricot jam and crunchy
was unmatched, and ever since she passed away in 2009, I’ve been
walnuts swathed in a rich, buttery cream cheese dough and sprinkled
looking to find time to re-create her delicious cookies. One of the with a warming hint of cinnamon.
most popular, and most requested, is her Cream Cheese Rugelach.
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
Her recipe for rugelach differs from the traditional rugelach, as 1 cup (227 grams) salted butter, room temperature
it’s shaped a bit differently and has a different filling and a different 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams) cream cheese, room
temperature
overall flavor. My grandmother used to make this cookie for
¼ cup (30 grams) confectioners’ sugar
everyone’s birthdays, holidays such as Rosh Hashanah, and on ½ cup (60 grams) very finely chopped walnuts
snowy, wintry days. Cream Cheese Rugelach was so popular Apricot preserves*
among my family members that there would be arguments 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground cinnamon
over whose right it was to take the last cookie on the table. My
grandmother learned very early on she always needed to have a 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat flour, butter, and cream cheese at medium speed until a
backup batch in the freezer.
dough forms, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Turn out dough
onto a work surface, and shape into a rectangle. Wrap in plastic
My grandmother’s rugelach dough comes together with just a wrap, and refrigerate until firm, about 45 minutes.
few simple ingredients, resulting in the perfect buttery and flaky 2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
cookie, filled with ground walnuts and topped with a dusting of 3. Sift confectioners’ sugar onto a work surface. Place firm
cinnamon. I remember helping my grandmother with rolling up dough on prepared surface; lightly sift confectioners’ sugar onto
dough and rolling pin. Roll dough into a ¼-inch-thick rectangle.
the rugelach and placing them on the baking sheet. She would
Trim sides of dough to make a 12x10-inch rectangle. Cut dough
never forget to sneak me a few rugelach as they made their rounds into 3x2-inch rectangles; cut each rectangle diagonally to make
in and out of the oven, cooling on the counter, waiting to be 2 triangles.
devoured. It’s a core memory that I’ll cherish for a lifetime. 4. Sprinkle about ½ teaspoon walnuts onto widest end of
each dough triangle. Using your finger, dab a small amount of
While my grandmother may not be here to continue to bake her preserves onto the point. Starting at base of triangle, roll up
dough to point, and seal. Sprinkle cinnamon onto rolled dough.
drool-worthy confections, her legacy lives on in my family and
Place on ungreased baking sheets.
me. I impatiently wait to whip up a batch with my son at my side, 5. Bake until puffed and golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Let
helping me the way I helped my grandmother so many years ago. cool on pans on wire racks for 2 minutes. Remove from pans,
My hope is that this heirloom recipe becomes your go-to cookie and let cool completely on wire racks. Store in an airtight
recipe the way it did mine, not just for holidays but for any time container for up to 5 days.
you’re craving a little morsel of delight.
*Morgan uses Bonne Maman Apricot Preserves.
Find Morgan on social media at @nomastehungry.
from the pantry

APPLES THE PURE, ENCHANTING

BY AMBER WILSON
FOOD STYLING BYAARON CONRAD

APPEAL OF THE APPLE

O
n that first cool, crisp, delicious autumn morning when
summer seems to give way to fall seemingly overnight,
I can find few things that encompass the season like an
apple. The beloved autumn gems gleam in hues of gold, pale and
vibrant greens, blushing pinks, and majestic reds, filled with juices
with the perfect balance of both sweetness and acidity. Their firm
flesh makes them ideal for baking and perfect for snacking on
alone as the superlative crunch of an apple breaks the calming
silence of the season, ushering in whispers of warming spices,
ethereal piecrust, and the aroma of caramel blipping away on
the stove. These scents bring me back to a memory that is most
potent this time of year.

One morning in late October, I recall stashing still-warm hand

pies wrapped in brown parchment paper snuggly side by side in
a small square baking pan. The scent of spiced apples and butter
filled the car as we drove through the winding road skirted with
trees boasting the most vivid display of autumnal colors. We
watched the sunlight slowly peek through the trees and the
golden light strike the pirouetting leaves in midair—the soft,
chilly breeze lifting them as if to make this moment last
just that much longer just for us. The tender, flaky pastry
satisfyingly gave way to a gentle dribble of salted caramel
and the softest apple filling that had been soused in cider and
deeply seasoned with cardamom, vanilla, and black pepper.
Sips of ice-cold sparkling water broke up bites of the apple-
filled pastry until all that was left were golden crumbs on my
emerald sweater. The quietness of the morning was fleeting, but
the cherished memory of the apple hand pies and the stillness of
that autumn morning lingers.

There seems to be an apple for every occasion imaginable: the

mottled red and yellow Honeycrisp for a honey-like aromatic
sweetness and crunch, a Braeburn adds lovely flavor and texture
to a tarte Tatin, and the light, rosy-skinned Gala to enjoy with a
sliver of Cheddar. There are thousands of varieties of apples, and
some are better-suited for baking than others. A perfect baking
apple relies on two key factors: texture and flavor.

A balance of sweet and sharp will create a well-rounded flavor

to your apple desserts, creating an irresistible combination that
keeps you coming back for another bite. Also, don’t be afraid
to mix and match apple varieties. Layering more than one
type of apple underneath that flaky, buttery crust will yield an
unbelievably flavorful filling. Now, let’s talk about the sorts of
apples made for baking!

Pink Lady, or Cripps Pink, is perfectly balanced between sweet,

tart, and astringent notes, making it a refreshing snacking apple
and an ideal baking apple. When baked, the apple retains its

september | october 2023 28

oh-so-perfect shape and maintains that heavenly sweet-tart As the season progresses, an apple’s texture and flavor are prone
balanced flavor! Also, Pink Lady oxidizes slowly, so you can prep to change. After picking, many will deepen in flavor as their starch
with ease knowing your apples won’t brown as quickly once sliced. turns to sugar and their notes of spices or fruitiness come to the
forefront. Others simply become soft and mushy. When choosing
Braeburns have muted red skin with golden-yellow undertones and a baking apple, it should be so firm that when you press it with
tinges of faint green. They have a prominent sweetness against an your thumb, it won’t leave an indentation. If the apple yields to the
acidic backdrop that concentrates and elicits a husky hint of spice pressure of your thumb, it is high in water content and more likely
while baking. And since these apples release very little liquid while to lose shape or get squishy when baked. This is desirable when
baking, you won’t be left with a soggy crust when making pies, making applesauce or apple butter but not what you’re looking
tarts, or galettes. for in a recipe where you want the apple pieces to remain intact.
Gently squeeze the apple, feeling for any soft spots and avoiding
Granny Smith apples boast a bright, tart, almost citrusy aroma
that complements the sweetness in desserts. In addition, their
firm flesh holds up well in the oven during long baking times,
making these a favorite among bakers. Another great thing about Obliviate Oxidation
these acidic beauties is that they are widely available any time of The best way to prevent cut apples from oxidizing is to soak
the year! the cut apples in a saltwater solution of ½ teaspoon
(1.5 grams) kosher salt to 1 cup (240 grams) cold water for
With its inherent honeyed sweetness and perfectly crisp bite, you 10 minutes. Drain well (but don’t rinse), and refrigerate in
can’t go wrong with a Honeycrisp. It’s sweeter than the Granny an airtight container for up to 5 days. The mild salt flavor
Smith, making it ideal for snacking and baking. With its juicy, can be rinsed off under cold water when ready to use,
crunchy texture and lovely sweetness that only gets more complex leaving you with a crisp and fresh apple long after being cut.
as it bakes, it is a solid choice for most desserts.
apples with bruising. While some types aren’t as inherently firm-
fleshed as others, if you feel a lot of give, that apple is likely either BAKE WITH APPLES
overripe or old. In this issue, don’t miss:
Honey-Apple Challah Knots, page 50
Once you’ve got your hands on the apple you desire, the key to Caramel Apple Cream Puffs, page 59
preserving fresh apples is to keep them cold. During ripening, Apple Spice Layer Cake, page 61
apples give off a gas called ethylene that also ripens other fruits
Apple Crumb Pie, page 66
and vegetables around them—helpful if you need to quickly ripen
a bunch of green bananas or a firm avocado. Otherwise, stash Apple-Cheddar-Sage Biscuits, page 89
apples in a tightly closed bag to trap in humidity and refrigerate
them, placing the bag in the produce drawer. Stored properly,
especially the denser, crisper varieties, apples should keep for
several months. I find it deeply comforting to open my fridge,
stare at all sorts of apples, and imagine all the delicious creations
they are destined to become.

september | october 2023 30

baker pro²le
WITH LOVE
FROM
VERMONT
GESINE BULLOCK-PRADO
REVEALS HOW HER LOVE
FOR HER HOME IN VERMONT
TRANSPIRED INTO A BEAUTIFUL
COOKBOOK, MY VERMONT
TABLE, FILLED WITH PASSION,
THOUGHTFULNESS, AND
DELICIOUS RECIPES. NOT ONLY IS
GESINE A PHENOMENAL BAKER
AND COOKBOOK AUTHOR, BUT
SHE IS ALSO A REMARKABLE
INSTRUCTOR. STUDENTS LEAVE
HER CLASSES BRIMMING
WITH CONFIDENCE, A SENSE
OF ACCOMPLISHMENT, AND
DELIGHTFUL BAKED GOODS.

BY AMBER WILSON

september | october 2023 32

G
esine Bullock-Prado’s passion for pastries began early
in life. She was born in Washington, DC, but she
traveled with her mother, a German opera singer, in
Europe at a young age. “I think when you grow up in Germany
and Austria around some of the best pastries in the world,
it just becomes second nature to appreciate and love them a
ton. And growing up as well in the States, where my mother
wouldn’t let me have any of the fun American food, my
neighbors had it and that’s where I learned to appreciate Oreos,
Twinkies, and all the fabulous Hostess products. There was never
a moment where I didn’t want to eat pastry. I always wanted
to make pastry and bake since I was able to reach an oven.”

Later in life, Gesine earned a law degree, and for nearly a

decade, she ran the production company of her sister, actress
Sandra Bullock. On a trip with her now husband, Ray Prado,
Gesine fell so head over heels for Vermont that she decided
to leave Hollywood for a quieter life in the Green Mountain
State, where she opened a pastry shop and began teaching
baking classes. “I’ve been teaching for 15 years now, and I
think one of the things I am most connected to is my talent
for mothering older women coming in and wanting to do
something for themselves. They’ve been caring for others for
so long, and this is one of their opportunities to take some
time to do something for themselves. I encourage that a
thousand times over. It’s never too late to learn something
new and exciting, have fun, forgive yourself for any mistakes,
and you don’t have to clean up after yourself!”

With an incredible talent for learning, as a self-taught baker,

and teaching, Gesine tackles everything from baking basics to
some of the most challenging recipes for a home baker. “My
job is to teach both professional and home bakers, and I found
that one of my favorite things to teach is laminated doughs.
And specifically, I am all about all inverse puff,” Gesine says.

This “inverse” technique reverses the traditional puff pastry

method by encasing the dough inside the butter, which
creates a flaky puff pastry that’s even lighter than traditional
puff pastry. “I don’t make any other type of puff,” Gesine
explains. “I think it’s a waste of time because nothing is
texturally complete, and if you want to do any French
pâtisserie, [for me] it’s inverse or go home.”

Still, making puff pastry can be intimidating, and Gesine

meets this pressure head-on to create calm and confidence
in her class. “I had these sisters from Idaho who came for
a sisters’ weekend, and one of them was the baker and the
other was a farmer. But the farmer was a little freaked out,
and I said to her, ‘You are going to leave here with the perfect
 A SWEET EDUCATION
Snag a spot in one of Gesine’s coveted
classes at Sugar Glider Kitchen,
her baking school in Vermont. Visit
sugargliderkitchen.com for more details.

puff pastry.’ She did not believe me. I told her all she had
to do is forget she was freaked out, to follow me. Everyone
understood why they were making it the way they were,
and everyone suddenly realized, ‘Oh, it’s not the toughest
thing at all to put the butter block on the outside.’ First, I
converted everyone to the [method]. They all got to the
process beautifully, but then, we all tasted what came from
it, and they were saying, ‘This is completely different than
either the store-bought puff or the traditional homemade
puff.’ It was equally exciting for those who did not bake and
for experienced home bakers because it’s something many of
them won’t touch. Watching everyone walk out with perfect
boxes of puff pastry was so fun.” “Seasonal things inspire me, but sometimes it’s memories that
bring about the baking bug,” she shares. “I often think of my
When asked where her inspiration comes from, she mom when Italian plums are around at the end of summer.
immediately responds with one word: seasonality. “I’m so There’s a cake recipe in our family, which is very traditional
lucky to live in Vermont because we have so much gorgeous in Bavaria, and we used to make it every summer. And when
dairy and some of the best butter, cream, and cheese. I grow she died, I couldn’t bake it because the smell of it was terrible
and forage so much here. I am influenced by what’s before me and wonderful all at the same time. One day, a man who had
and the possibilities. For instance, I grow sumac and dry it, so fought in World War II came into my pastry shop. One of his
sumac becomes a part of everything I make. I grow saffron; favorite memories was being served this cake after the war.
it’s a fall-blooming crocus and finds its way into tarts and all He asked me if I could make it for him. My staff knew exactly
manner of dishes. It’s so crazy all these beautiful things you how big of a request this was for me, and it happened to be
can experiment with and put in your piehole,” Gesine says. Italian plum season, and I thought, ‘I can’t say no to this man.’

september | october 2023 34

 So, it broke my fast of not making this cake. I made it and
wept! He cried, too, when he ate it. We had a big weep fest!
But I got through it. I thought, ‘OK, now, I might cry every
time I make it, but at least I know I can make it again.’ It was
healing for everyone. There’s so much memory tied in it, and
these memories of people’s hands, your grandma’s hands, the
smells, and the tastes.”

In her cookbook, Gesine’s recipes range from deeply personal

to seasonal to rekindling historical recipes like Salt-Rising
Bread, which pays homage to her home in Vermont and the
women who made this bread before her. “I live so seasonally,
but one of my favorite things is the historic recipe for Salt-
Rising Bread. We share this beautiful mountain range that
goes from Maine down South, and this tradition of this bread
spans all of Appalachia. You see it more in the South, but
there were recipes from Calvin Coolidge’s favorite cook in
[Plymouth] Notch [in Vermont]. She had this salt-rising
bread, which requires hot salt rocks, which stay warm for days
on end, to get the starter going,” Gesine says. “These clever
women invented this bread because they couldn’t access
traditional yeast, so they created the starter from naturally
milled cornmeal. And so, figuring out a way to use modern
technology to ensure this historic recipe could be replicated
every time was one of my favorite tasks for this cookbook. It’s
like making history [come] alive.”

Gesine discovered the perfect kitchen tool that would replicate

the constant heat that the hot salt rocks emit in the original,
historical recipe. “The thing that will work guaranteed is using
a sous vide. You know you’ve got it right when you open the
bag, and it smells like stinky socks! But once it bakes up, it’s
beautiful and has a lovely rise. But you also have to get ahold
of really good cornmeal; by that I mean not overly processed,
something that is relatively organic. Anson Mills makes such
gorgeous heritage flours and grains. They use traditional
milling methods that don’t overprocess or take out as much
nutrients from the cornmeal. You must have the minerals
and the nutrients in there for this starter to be activated. It’s
a thoughtful recipe because you have to think through what
these clever women did back in the day and get your hands on
wonderful ingredients and clever tools,” she says.

“Baking is magic as it is, but this is like you are bringing these
women back into your home and thanking them for being able
to create gorgeous bread. Just thinking about how hard these
people worked and they still lovingly made beautiful things.
We’re so lucky that we still have those traditions plus modern
technology to make it a lot easier.”

35 bake from scratch

MAPLE BUNDT 1. Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a
Serves 8 12-cup/10-inch Bundt pan with nonstick baking spray.
2. Cream the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
Excerpted with permission from MY VERMONT TABLE: the paddle attachment until smooth. Add the granulated
Recipes for All (Six) Seasons by Gesine Bullock-Prado. sugar and continue to cream, scraping down the sides of the
Copyright ©2023 Countryman Press. Photo by Raymond Prado. bowl every now and again, until the mixture is light and fluffy.
This can take 5 to 10 minutes.
This cake is simple and delicious. Simply delicious. Use a 3. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large
decorative Bundt pan to bring it pizzazz, but make sure to spray bowl to combine. Transfer the flour mixture to a piece of
the pan incredibly well with nonstick baking spray to ensure that parchment.
the cake easily releases from the mold. 4. Add the maple syrup to the butter mixture and mix well.
Add the eggs, one at time, mixing until each egg is completely
Cake: incorporated and scraping down the bowl after each addition.
Nonstick baking spray Add half the flour mixture and mix, then the milk and maple
1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature extract, and mix until incorporated. Add the remaining flour
1 cup (198 grams) granulated sugar mixture and mix until combined. Transfer the batter to the
2½ cups (300 grams) all-purpose flour prepared Bundt pan and smooth the top with the back of a
1 teaspoon baking powder spoon.
½ teaspoon fine sea salt 5. Place the Bundt pan on a baking sheet and bake until the cake
½ cup (156 grams) pure maple syrup springs back when gently poked, about 1 hour. Remove from the
4 large eggs, room temperature oven and allow the cake to rest in the pan for 10 minutes, then
½ cup (113 grams) whole milk turn out onto a cooling rack to cool completely.
½ teaspoon maple extract 6. Make the glaze: Mix together the confectioners’ sugar,
maple syrup, and 2 tablespoons of the cream in a small bowl
Maple glaze: until smooth. Add more cream, 1 teaspoon at a time, to
2 cups (227 grams) sifted confectioners’ sugar thin the glaze to your desired consistency. Once the cake is
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup completely cooled, place onto a serving platter and pour the
¼ to ⅓ cup heavy cream glaze over the top.
september | october 2023 36
 bread box
powered by Red Star® Yeast YEASTED ROUGH PUFF IS TRULY IMPRESSIVE—THE DOUGH BAKES INTO
PASTRIES THAT ARE LIGHT AND FLUFFY INSIDE AND CRISP ON THE OUTSIDE,
PROVIDING A VERSATILE BASE FOR BOTH SWEET AND SAVORY CREATIONS

Cranberry Danish
page 39

GIVING RISE STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL

TO ROUGH PUFF
Croissant
French Bread
page 40

september | october 2023 38

CRANBERRY DANISH
Makes 2 (15-inch) Danish

Our buttery pastry gets layered with a rich cream cheese spread and
a deep red berry jam and drizzled with a sweet orange glaze, creating
a delectable fruit-filled treat. These are best served the day they’re
made, but we doubt you’ll have leftovers anyway!

Yeasted Rough Puff Pastry (recipe follows)

1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams) cream cheese, room
temperature
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
Cranberry Compote (recipe follows)
1 large egg (50 grams)
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
5 teaspoons (25 grams) fresh orange juice

1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll Yeasted Rough Puff Pastry into
a 15x10½-inch rectangle (about ¼ inch thick). Cut pastry in half
lengthwise, creating 2 (15x5¼-inch) rectangles. Place 1 rectangle
on each prepared pan.
3. Using the back of a sharp knife or bench scraper, carefully score
a border 1 inch from edges of 1 rectangle. Repeat with remaining
rectangle. Refrigerate for 15 minutes or until ready to use.
4. In a medium bowl, fold together cream cheese and granulated
sugar until smooth. Fold in egg yolk and vanilla until combined.
5. Spread half of cream cheese mixture (¾ cup or 171 grams)
within scored area on each rectangle. Cover pastries with greased
plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
until puffed, about 1 hour.
6. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
7. Gently spread half of Cranberry Compote (¾ cup or 257 grams)
onto cream cheese mixture on each pastry.
8. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon (15 grams)
water. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush egg wash onto pastry
border.
9. Bake, one pan at a time, until golden brown and puffed, 15 to
20 minutes. Let cool on pans on wire racks for 10 minutes.
10. In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’ sugar and orange
juice; drizzle onto Danish. Let stand for 10 minutes; serve warm.

YEASTED ROUGH PUFF PASTRY

Makes 2 (15-inch) Danish or 2 (14-inch) loaves

3 tablespoons (45 grams) water

3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated sugar, divided
1¼ teaspoons (3.5 grams) active dry yeast*
2¼ cups (286 grams) bread flour
1¾ teaspoons (5.25 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) plus 3 tablespoons (42 grams) cold unsalted
butter, cubed
½ cup (120 grams) cold whole milk
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1. In a small microwave-safe bowl, stir together 3 tablespoons CROISSANT FRENCH BREAD
(45 grams) water and ½ teaspoon (2 grams) sugar; heat on high in Makes 2 (14-inch) loaves
10-second intervals until an instant-read thermometer registers
110°F (43°C) to 115°F (46°C). Whisk in yeast until well combined. Mimicking the crisp, flaky texture of croissants, these loaves are
Let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. everything you love about puff pastry without the intensive time and
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, labor. The layers of buttery goodness rise throughout the length of the
beat bread flour, salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons baguettes, creating a golden-brown crust meant for tearing and sharing.
(34 grams) sugar at low speed until combined. Add 3 tablespoons
(42 grams) cold butter; beat until mixture resembles coarse bread All-purpose flour, for dusting
crumbs, about 3 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup (113 grams) cold Yeasted Rough Puff Pastry (recipe on opposite page)
butter; beat just until butter is coated with flour. 1 large egg (50 grams)
3. Add cold milk to yeast mixture. With mixer on low speed, add 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
yeast mixture to flour mixture in a slow, steady stream, beating
just until a shaggy dough comes together. (There will still be large 1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
pieces of butter.) 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll Yeasted Rough Puff Pastry
4. Lightly dust work surface with all-purpose flour. Turn out dough into a 12x8½-inch rectangle (about ¼ inch thick). Cut rectangle in
onto prepared surface, and shape into a rough 5-inch square. half lengthwise, creating 2 (12x4¼-inch) rectangles. Holding each
(Dough will be soft and slightly sticky.) Wrap in plastic wrap, and short end of 1 rectangle, tightly twist in opposite directions twice,
freeze for 30 minutes. gently pulling to elongate into a tapered baguette shape. Gently
5. Lightly dust work surface with all-purpose flour. Turn out dough pinch ends, and place on a prepared pan. Repeat with remaining
onto prepared surface, and roll into a 10x5-inch rectangle, lightly dough rectangle. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise in a
dusting surface and top of dough with all-purpose flour as needed. warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours.
(See Note.) Fold dough in half so short sides meet. Pat fold to 3. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
mark center. Unfold dough, and pull one short side to center. Pull 4. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon (15 grams)
opposite side to center so short sides are touching. Pinch seams water. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush egg wash onto
together; fold along center seam, like closing a book. (This is called 1 baguette. (Do not brush remaining loaf until ready to bake.)
a book-fold.) Rotate dough 90 degrees; repeat rolling and folding 5. Bake, one loaf at a time, until puffed and golden brown, 13 to
procedure once to complete second book-fold. (Dough will start 18 minutes. Let cool on pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Remove
out soft, rough, and somewhat sticky but will come together; from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
turn dough over as needed so edges are rolled out as evenly as
possible.) Wrap in plastic wrap, and freeze for 15 minutes.
6. Repeat rolling, folding, and rotating procedure twice (a total of
4 book-folds). Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at
least 1½ hours or up to overnight.

*We used Red Star® All-Natural Active Dry Yeast.

Note: If at any point the dough is resisting or feels too soft, wrap in
plastic wrap, and freeze for 10 to 15 minutes before continuing.

CRANBERRY COMPOTE
Makes about 1¾ cups

3 cups (330 grams) fresh or frozen cranberries

1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (30 grams) water
1 tablespoon (3 grams) orange zest
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a medium saucepan, bring cranberries, sugar, 2 tablespoons

(30 grams) water, orange zest, and salt to a boil over medium- SHAPING CROISSANT FRENCH BREAD
high heat, stirring frequently, until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to Holding the short ends of 1 rectangle, tightly twist one side of
medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until cranberries have the dough two times. Repeat with the other side, twisting the
burst, begin to break down, and mixture has thickened, 10 to dough in the opposite direction. Gently pull on the dough to
15 minutes. Remove from heat, and transfer to a heatproof elongate the baguette into a tapered shape. Pinch both ends of
bowl. Let cool completely before using. Refrigerate in an airtight the baguette to help it keep its shape while baking.
container for up to 3 days.

Looking for more spectacular bread recipes? Head to bakefromscratch.com and check out our Bread Box collection!
september | october 2023 40
 CHALLAH IS TRADITIONALLY SERVED ON ROSH
HASHANAH, BUT IT’S PERFECT ANY TIME OF YEAR
WITH ITS ENRICHED DOUGH THAT’S SLIGHTLY
SWEET AND JUST BEGGING TO BE SHARED

STYLING BY COURTNI BODIFORD

T
his bronzed, wispy-textured yeast bread is a symbolic centerpiece for Shabbat (the Jewish Sabbath)
and High Holy Days, including Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. The dough is beautifully soft
and smooth, making it an ideal candidate for braiding. The six-strand braid makes the most striking
presentation. Crisscrossing it is pleasantly tactile, and the result is always impressive. If the plaiting seems
intimidating, fear not as we walk you through our step-by-step process that will leave you with confidence to
create a beautifully braided loaf. The dough is also versatile, lending itself to sweet variations like our honey-
kissed and cinnamon-spiced Honey-Apple Challah Knots. Making challah in any incarnation will reward you
with faith in your bread-making abilities in every burnished slice and oh-so-supple mouthful.

september | october 2023 42

CHALLAH 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 7. Pinch together one end of remaining
Makes 2 braided loaves together ¾ cup (180 grams) lukewarm 6 ropes so they are connected. Position
water and yeast by hand until dissolved. pinched ropes at top of work surface, and
This pillowy-soft bread has a wonderfully rich, Add 1¼ cups (159 grams) bread flour; stir fan out lengths of ropes so there is space
soft, and supple dough, perfect for braiding. until combined. Cover and let rise in a between each.
It’s redolent with honey, which gives the warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until 8. From left to right, count each strand’s
dough a floral, slightly sweet aroma. Using doubled in size, about 30 minutes. position from 1 through 6. Cross strands
oil instead of butter keeps the recipe pareve, 2. Add sugar, salt, and remaining 4 cups 1 and 6, switching their positions. Move
meaning it’s compatible with meat and dairy (508 grams) bread flour to yeast mixture. current strand 6 to center to become
according to kosher rules. It also gives the 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, strand 4. Move strand 2 to become strand
challah a wonderful texture and keeps it fresh honey, 2 eggs (100 grams), and egg yolks. 6. Next, move strand 1 to become strand 3.
longer. Add oil mixture to flour mixture. Using the Move strand 5 to become strand 1. Repeat
dough hook attachment, beat at low speed pattern—6 to 4, 2 to 6, 1 to 3, 5 to 1—until
¾ cup (180 grams) lukewarm water until a smooth, slightly tacky, elastic dough you reach the end. Pinch end of ropes to
(85°F/29°C to 90°F/32°C) comes together, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn out seal completely, and tuck under. Carefully
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast* onto a clean surface, and shape into a move braid to prepared pan. Repeat
5¼ cups (667 grams) bread flour, divided smooth round. pinching and braiding procedure with
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated 4. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking remaining ropes.
sugar spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to 9. In a small bowl, whisk together
4 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water and
⅓ cup (75 grams) vegetable oil draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled remaining 1 egg (50 grams). Using a pastry
¼ cup (85 grams) honey in size, 1½ to 2 hours. brush, brush egg wash onto braids. Cover
3 large eggs (150 grams), room 5. Line a baking sheet with parchment braided loaves with greased plastic wrap,
temperature and divided paper. and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room 6. Punch down dough, and turn out onto (75°F/24°C) until puffed and dough holds
temperature a clean surface. Cover and let stand for an indentation when gently pressed, 1½ to
All-purpose flour, for dusting 5 minutes. Divide dough into 12 portions 2 hours.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water (about 98 grams each). Roll each portion 10. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
into a 16-inch-long rope. Lightly dust 11. Brush braids with egg wash.
rolled ropes with all-purpose flour. (This 12. Bake until golden brown and an instant-
will help keep a defined braid by preventing read thermometer inserted in center
the ropes from baking together.) Cover registers at least 190°F (88°C), 18 to
6 ropes with plastic wrap; set aside. 25 minutes, covering with foil during final
10 minutes of baking to prevent excess
browning. Let cool on pan for 10 minutes.
Remove from pan, and let cool completely
on a wire rack. Store in an airtight
container for up to 5 days.

*We used Red Star® Active Dry Yeast.

Making the Dough
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together
¾ cup (180 grams) lukewarm water and yeast
by hand until dissolved. Add 1¼ cups (159 grams)
bread flour; stir until combined. Cover and let
rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. In this
step, you are making a sponge. Dissolving the
yeast in the water will wake up the yeast and get
it ready to raise the bread. As the sponge sits,
the yeast feeds on the starches in the flour and
reproduces, creating an active, bubbly mixture
that lets you use a smaller amount of yeast in
this dough recipe. This step gives the challah
beautiful texture, aroma, and flavor.
1. 2.
2. Add sugar, salt, and remaining 4 cups
(508 grams) bread flour to yeast mixture. Using
bread flour in this recipe is essential because
it’s a high-protein flour and that higher protein
corresponds to the amount of gluten you can
develop in the dough. It’s the gluten that’s
important to the structure and the texture of
the challah. Sugar not only flavors the bread but
also aids in rising and fermentation; the sugar
breaks down during crust formation, which gives
enriched breads their inherent golden exterior.
Salt brings out the flavor of the ingredients, and
it intensifies the gluten network of the challah.

Getting Kneady
& Letting It Rise 3.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, honey,
2 eggs (100 grams), and egg yolks. Add oil
mixture to flour mixture. Using the dough hook
attachment, beat at low speed until a smooth,
slightly tacky, elastic dough comes together,
5 to 7 minutes. Turn out onto a clean surface,
and shape into a smooth round. Oil inhibits
gluten formation; that’s why challah needs a lot
of kneading. Breads with high amounts of fat are
better at keeping moisture inside, which means
your bread will stay fresher longer.

4. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking spray.

Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours.

4.

september | october 2023 44

 Taking Shape
1. Punch down dough, and turn out onto
a clean surface. Cover and let stand for
5 minutes. Divide dough into 12 portions
(about 98 grams each). Roll each portion into
a 16-inch-long rope. Lightly dust rolled ropes
with all-purpose flour. (This will help keep a
defined braid by preventing the ropes from
baking together.) Cover 6 ropes with plastic
wrap; set aside. Before rolling each portion into
a strand, pre-shape the strands by bundling up
and tucking the edges in, creating a tube shape.
This will help you create a nice smooth strand.

2. Pinch together one end of remaining

6 ropes so they are connected. Position
pinched ropes at top of work surface, and fan
out lengths of ropes so there is space between
each. Once you have one strand made, simply
use it as a benchmark for the length for the
rest of your stands.

45 bake from scratch

The Braid
1. From left to right, count each strand’s position from 1 through 6. Cross strands
1 and 6, switching their positions. Move current strand 6 to center to become strand
4. Move strand 2 to become strand 6. Next, move strand 1 to become strand 3. Move
strand 5 to become strand 1. Repeat pattern—6 to 4, 2 to 6, 1 to 3, 5 to 1—until
you reach the end. Pinch end of ropes to seal completely, and tuck under. Carefully
move braid to prepared pan. Repeat pinching and braiding procedure with remaining
ropes. Dusting the ropes in flour before braiding will not only will give the braid a more
defined shape, but it will also allow you to unbraid if you notice you missed a step
during the braiding process!

september | october 2023 46

 Pleasant
Plaiting
Tips and tricks to help you prep
and perfectly braid your challah

When dividing the dough into

12 portions, make sure to pop any
air bubbles in the dough, as they will
make it difficult to roll into a rope.

Resist the urge to flour your work

surface when rolling dough into
ropes; the friction between the work
surface and the dough will help
lengthen the dough. If the dough
is sticking to your hands without
releasing easily, lightly wet your
hands to help keep the dough from
sticking rather than adding flour.

Don’t create too much tension

when braiding the loaves. A looser
braid allows the challah to expand
with minimal tearing during
proofing and baking.
Brush, Rise & Bake
1. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon
(15 grams) water and remaining 1 egg
(50 grams). Using a pastry brush, brush egg
wash onto braids. Cover braided loaves with
greased plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm,
draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed
and dough holds an indentation when gently
pressed, 1½ to 2 hours. Brushing the dough with
egg wash here and again right before baking gives
the bread its deep golden exterior. Also, don’t
skip greasing the parchment, as it keeps the egg
wash from sticking to the parchment paper.

2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

3. Brush braids with egg wash.

4. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read

thermometer inserted in center registers at
least 190°F (88°C), 18 to 25 minutes, covering
with foil during final 10 minutes of baking to
prevent excess browning. Let cool on pan for
10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool
completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight
container for up to 1 week. Resist the urge to
tear into the bread when it’s still hot; doing so
will dry out the bread because this allows the
steam to escape, leaving you with a dry crumb.
49 bake from scratch
HONEY-APPLE CHALLAH KNOTS
Makes 18 rolls

Gently tearing into these deeply golden challah

rolls reveals pockets of tender apples sweetly
infused with floral honey and spiced with
cinnamon nestled into every glorious bite.

Challah (recipe on page 43)

4 cups (460 grams) diced peeled
Honeycrisp apple (about 3 medium
apples)
2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
Pearl sugar, for sprinkling

1. Prepare Challah through step 4.

2. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
3. In a medium bowl, stir together apple,
honey, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes
or until ready to use.
4. Turn out Challah dough onto a lightly
floured surface. Divide dough into 18 portions
(about 65 grams each). Flatten or roll
1 portion of dough into a 6x3-inch rectangle
with one long side closest to you. (Keep
remaining dough covered with plastic wrap
while you work.) Spoon 3 tablespoons
(27 grams) apple mixture in a horizontal line
along center third of rectangle. Fold bottom
third up to cover filling; fold top third down,
and pinch seam to seal. Gently pull and roll
filled dough until it is a 10-inch-long rope. Tie
rope in a knot, and tuck ends under. Place on
a prepared pan. Repeat with remaining dough
and remaining apple mixture. Cover with
plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours.
5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
6. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Using a pastry
brush, brush egg wash onto each roll. Sprinkle
with pearl sugar.
7. Bake until golden and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in center registers
190°F (88°C), 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool on
pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and
let cool completely on a wire rack. Store in an
airtight container for up to 5 days.
 Shape & Bake: Honey-Apple Challah Knots
Prep the Filling Fill, Shape & Proof the Dough
1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 1. Turn out Challah dough onto a lightly floured surface. Divide dough into
18 portions (about 65 grams each). Flatten or roll 1 portion of dough into a
2. In a medium bowl, stir together apple, honey, 6x3-inch rectangle with one long side closest to you. (Keep remaining dough
granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Cover and covered with plastic wrap while you work.) Spoon 3 tablespoons (27 grams)
refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or until ready apple mixture in a horizontal line along center third of rectangle. Fold
to use. This step is essential for two reasons: it bottom third up to cover filling; fold top third down, and pinch seam to seal.
allows all the flavors to permeate and infuse the Gently pull and roll filled dough until it is a 10-inch-long rope. Tie rope in a
apples, and it draws out some moisture in the knot, and tuck ends under. Place on a prepared pan. Repeat with remaining
apples so you don’t end up with a soggy knot. dough and remaining apple mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours. Make sure
the seams are facing down when you place them on the baking sheet.

51 bake from scratch

Brush & Bake
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

2. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and

1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Using a pastry
brush, brush egg wash onto each roll. Sprinkle
with pearl sugar.

3. Bake until golden and an instant-read

thermometer inserted in center registers 190°F
(88°C), 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool on pans for
10 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool
completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight
container for up to 5 days.
 Apple Butter
Sandwich Cookies
page 62

53 bake from scratch

IINDULGE
N D U LG E IN
I N OUR
O U R BEST
B E S T BAKES
B A K E S FFILLED
ILLED
WITH
I T H SSWEET,
W E E T, CCRISP
R I S P AAUTUMN
U T U M N AAPPLES
PPLES
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE AND KYLE CARPENTER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL AND MARY BETH JONES
Caramel Apple
Cream Puffs
page 59
Caramel Apple
Cheesecake Bars
page 60

september | october 2023 56

 Deep-Dish Apple Galette
page 62

57 bake from scratch

Apple Spice
Layer Cake
page 61
 CARAMEL APPLE CREAM PUFFS 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 6. Bake, one pan at a time, for 15 minutes.
Makes about 15 cream puffs 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Rotate pan, and bake until fully puffed and
2. Using a permanent marker, draw golden brown, about 10 minutes more.
A velvety cream layers the center of these 8 (2½-inch) circles 1 to 1½ inches apart on Let cool completely on pan on a wire rack.
pastries alongside a festive apple filling. another sheet of parchment paper. Place 7. Clean bowl of stand mixer. Using the
Baked to golden perfection, these handheld paper with circles under parchment on a whisk attachment, beat cold cream and
dreams are the ideal shareable treat! prepared pan. (The paper with circles is a confectioners’ sugar at medium-high speed
template for piping.) until soft peaks form. Add mascarpone
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 3. In a medium saucepan, bring butter, and vanilla, and beat until stiff peaks form.
½ cup (120 grams) water ½ cup(120 grams) water, milk, granulated Use immediately, or refrigerate until ready
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk sugar, and salt to a rolling boil over to use.
2 teaspoons (8 grams) granulated sugar medium- high heat. Add flour, and stir with 8. Cut cream puffs in half horizontally.
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt a wooden spoon until combined. Cook, Spread 3 to 4 tablespoons (25 to
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour stirring constantly, until a skin forms on 34 grams) mascarpone whipped cream
4 to 5 large eggs (200 to 250 grams), bottom of pan and mixture pulls away from on bottom half of each puff. Top each with
room temperature sides of pan and forms a ball, 1 to 2 tablespoons (40 grams) Apple Compote
1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy whipping 2 minutes. and top of puff. Top with Salted Caramel
cream 4. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand Sauce as desired. Serve immediately.
½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar mixer fitted with the paddle attachment;
1 cup (225 grams) mascarpone cheese* beat at medium-low speed until dough *We used BelGioioso Mascarpone Cheese.
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract cools slightly and is no longer steaming,
Apple Compote (recipe follows) 2 to 3 minutes. Add 4 eggs (200 grams), APPLE COMPOTE
Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe on one at a time, beating until combined after Makes about 2 cups
opposite page) each addition. (Batter will be shiny and will
slowly move back together when a spatula 1½ pounds (680 grams) Honeycrisp or
is dragged through it; batter should also Pink Lady apples, peeled, cored, and
fall off paddle attachment so excess is left coarsely chopped
hanging in a “V” shape.) Add remaining 3 cups (720 grams) plus
1 egg (50 grams) if necessary. 2 tablespoons (30 grams) apple cider,
5. Transfer some of batter to a large pastry divided
bag fitted with a ½-inch round piping tip ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light
(Ateco #806). Place piping tip in center brown sugar
of a drawn circle. Hold tip perpendicular 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
½ inch above pan and hold parchment 1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice
paper steady, if necessary. Keeping tip ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
steady, apply even pressure until batter
reaches edges of drawn circle. Stop 1. In a medium saucepan, combine apples,
applying pressure, and move tip in a quick 2 tablespoons (30 grams) cider, brown
circular motion as you lift away. (You want sugar, vanilla, lemon juice, and salt.
to minimize points, but it’s OK if your Cook over medium-high heat, stirring
dollops do have some peaks.) Repeat with frequently, until apples begin to soften and
remaining batter until pan is full. Dampen break down, 8 to 10 minutes.
fingertip with water, and gently press down 2. Stir remaining 3 cups (720 grams)
any points or ragged portions to create a cider into apple mixture. Bring to a boil
smooth top, if necessary. Carefully slide over medium-high heat; cook, stirring
template out from under piped batter, frequently and mashing apples with a
and place under parchment on remaining spoon, until mixture is thickened and liquid
prepared pan. Repeat piping procedure is almost completely evaporated, 20 to
with remaining batter. 25 minutes.
3. Remove from heat, and let cool
completely. Refrigerate until cold before
using, at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

59 bake from scratch

SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE 1 cup (125 grams)
Makes 1½ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar packed light brown sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) water ½ cup (50 grams) old-
⅓ cup (80 grams) heavy whipping fashioned oats
cream, room temperature ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
butter, cubed and softened softened
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ¾ cup (85 grams) chopped pecans
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe precedes)

1. In a small saucepan, stir together sugar 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
and ¼ cup (60 grams) water until combined. a 13x9-inch baking pan with foil, letting
Bring to a boil over high heat. (Do not stir.) excess extend over sides of pan. Spray foil
Cook, without stirring, until caramel turns with baking spray with flour.
a deep amber color and an instant-read 2. For crust: In the bowl of a stand mixer
thermometer registers 355°F (180°C) to fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
360°F (182°C), 15 to 18 minutes. butter and brown sugar at medium speed
2. Remove from heat. Carefully whisk in until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to
cream until well combined. Add butter scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low
and salt, whisking until butter is melted speed, gradually add flour and salt, beating
and well combined. Stir in vanilla. Pour until just combined. Press mixture into
into a heatproof container, and let cool bottom of prepared pan.
completely. 3. Bake until golden brown, about
20 minutes. Let cool completely. Leave
CARAMEL APPLE CHEESECAKE oven on.
BARS 4. For filling: In a large bowl, stir together
Makes about 18 bars apples, ½ cup (100 gram) granulated
sugar, 1 teaspoon (2 grams) cinnamon,
Offering classic fall flavors in each slice, these and nutmeg. Let stand until apples have
gooey, pecan-packed bars are creamy and released most of their juices, 45 minutes
delicious. Drizzle with caramel sauce for a to 1 hour. Drain apples, discarding liquid.
charming final touch. 5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese,
Crust: eggs, vanilla, and remaining ¾ cup
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, (150 grams)granulated sugar at medium-
softened high speed until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes.
⅔ cup (147 grams) firmly packed light Pour onto cooled crust. Gently spread
brown sugar apple mixture on top.
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 6. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt brown sugar, oats, salt, and remaining
½ teaspoon (1 gram) cinnamon. Using a
Filling: pastry blender or fork, cut in butter until
8 cups (900 grams) finely diced peeled mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in
Honeycrisp or Pink Lady apples pecans; sprinkle onto apples.
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar, 7. Bake until center is set and an instant-
divided read thermometer inserted in center
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground registers 160°F (71°C), about 45 minutes.
cinnamon, divided Let cool completely in pan on a wire rack.
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg Refrigerate, uncovered, until cold, at least
3 (8-ounce) packages (680 grams) 8 hours or up to overnight.
cream cheese, softened 8. Using excess foil as handles, remove
3 large eggs (150 grams), room from pan, and cut into bars. Serve with
temperature Salted Caramel Sauce.
2 teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
APPLE SPICE LAYER CAKE Vanilla Bean Buttercream (recipe follows) Vanilla Bean Buttercream on top and sides
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake Spiced Apple Topping (recipe follows) of cake, creating a slight border around top
edge. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Made with an irresistible spiced topping and 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 6. Just before serving, spoon Spiced Apple
covered in a silky frosting, this beautiful cake 2 (8-inch) round cake pans with baking Topping on top of cake within border.
is almost impossible to put down. Applesauce spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
as an egg replacement in the batter makes for parchment paper.
a tender, soft crumb. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, VANILLA BEAN BUTTERCREAM
cinnamon, baking powder, salt, baking Makes about 5 cups
2½cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour soda, allspice, nutmeg, and ginger.
2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon 3. In a large bowl, whisk together 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter,
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder buttermilk, applesauce, oil, and vanilla; stir softened
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt in sugars. Add flour mixture, and whisk 1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda until just combined. Divide batter between 5½ cups (660 grams) confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground allspice prepared pans, smoothing tops. ¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping cream
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in 2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean
¼ teaspoon ground ginger center comes out with a few moist crumbs, paste
1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for
room temperature 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and let 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
¾ cup (180 grams) unsweetened cool completely on wire racks. the paddle attachment, beat butter and
applesauce 5. Level cooled cake layers, if desired. Place salt at medium speed until smooth and
¾ cup (112 grams) vegetable oil 1 cake layer, cut side up, on a serving plate. creamy. With mixer on low speed, add
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract Spread 1½ cups (306 grams) Vanilla Bean confectioners’ sugar in three additions
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar Buttercream onto cake layer. Top with alternately with cream, beginning and
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark remaining cake layer. Spread remaining ending with confectioners’ sugar, beating
brown sugar until combined after each addition. Beat in
vanilla bean paste. Increase mixer speed to
high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 1 to
2 minutes. Use immediately.

SPICED APPLE TOPPING

Makes 1¼ cups

2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted

butter
2 cups (200 grams) ½-inch-chopped
peeled Pink Lady apple (about 1 large
apple)
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons (30 grams) water
2 teaspoons (6 grams) cornstarch

1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over

medium heat. Add apple, brown sugar,
lemon juice, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally. In a small bowl, whisk
together 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water
and cornstarch until smooth; stir into
apple mixture. Cook, stirring constantly,
until mixture is thickened and translucent
and apples are tender, about 3 minutes.
Remove from heat, and let cool
completely.
DEEP-DISH APPLE GALETTE egg wash onto dough. Sprinkle turbinado ½ teaspoon (2 grams) cream of tartar
Makes 1 (9-inch) galette sugar onto dough. Turbinado sugar, for rolling
7. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven Apple Butter Buttercream (recipe follows)
Loaded with a chunky apple filling and mixed temperature to 375°F (190°C), and ¼ cup (75 grams) apple butter
with warm, fragrant spices, this buttery bake until crust is golden and apples are
galette is the epitome of fall flavor. tender, 35 to 40 minutes more. Let cool 1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment
completely in pan on a wire rack. paper.
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted 8. Carefully run a knife around sides of pan. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
butter Remove from pan, and serve immediately the paddle attachment, beat butter, brown
3 pounds (1,361 grams) firm sweet at room temperature. Refrigerate in an sugar, and granulated sugar at medium
apples, peeled, cored, and chopped airtight container for up to 3 days. speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in
2 tablespoons (28 grams) firmly packed ALL-BUTTER PIECRUST egg and vanilla until combined.
light brown sugar Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish crust 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice salt, pie spice, cinnamon, baking soda, and
½ teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon 1½cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour cream of tartar. With mixer on low speed,
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar gradually add flour mixture to butter
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt mixture, beating until just combined and
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Using a
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (11 grams) cubed 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop, scoop
cornstarch ⅓ cup (80 grams) ice water dough (about 34 grams each), and roll into
2 tablespoons (30 grams) water, divided balls. Roll dough balls in turbinado sugar,
All-purpose flour, for dusting 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, and place 1½ to 2 inches apart on prepared
All-Butter Piecrust (recipe follows) pulse flour, sugar, and salt until combined. pans. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or
1 large egg (50 grams) Add cold butter; pulse until mixture is up to 1 hour.
Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling crumbly and butter is pea-size. With 4. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
processor running, add ⅓ cup (80 grams) 5. Bake until edges are set and center is still
1. In a large saucepan, melt butter over ice water in a slow, steady stream until slightly soft, 13 to 16 minutes. Let cool on
medium heat. Add apples, granulated dough just comes together. pans for 20 minutes. Remove from pans,
sugar, brown sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, 2. Turn out dough onto a work surface, and and let cool completely on wire racks.
salt, nutmeg, and cardamom. Increase shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and 6. Place Apple Butter Buttercream
heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch
occasionally, until apples begin to soften 2 weeks. Let dough stand at room round piping tip (Ateco #806). Pipe a
and release most of their liquid, 4 to temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before buttercream border onto flat side of half
6 minutes. rolling out. of cookies. Spoon apple butter in center
2. In a small bowl, whisk together (about 1 teaspoon or 6 grams each). Top
cornstarch and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) APPLE BUTTER SANDWICH with remaining cookies, flat side down.
water. Stir into apple mixture; cook, COOKIES Refrigerate in an airtight container for
stirring frequently, until mixture is thick Makes 11 sandwich cookies up to 3 days.
and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove
from heat, and pour into a heatproof bowl. The best fall spices and sweet apple flavors APPLE BUTTER BUTTERCREAM
Let cool completely. now come in the perfect seasonal cookie Makes about 2½ cups
3. Lightly dust a sheet of parchment paper package. Filled with a rich buttercream and
with flour; turn out All-Butter Piecrust rolled in turbinado sugar, each bite is sweet, 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter,
onto prepared parchment, and roll into chewy, buttery bliss. softened
a 14-inch circle (about ⅛ inch thick). 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Transfer dough on parchment to a baking ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
sheet, and refrigerate for 15 minutes. softened 2½ cups (300 grams) confectioners’ sugar
4. Transfer cold crust to a 9-inch 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed dark ⅓ cup (100 grams) apple butter
springform pan, pressing into bottom and brown sugar
up sides. Pour apple filling into prepared ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
crust. Fold and pleat excess dough over 1 large egg (50 grams), room with the paddle attachment, beat butter,
filling, leaving center exposed. Freeze until temperature vanilla, and salt at medium speed until
firm, 15 to 30 minutes. ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract smooth. With mixer on low speed,
5. Position oven rack in bottom third of 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour gradually add confectioners’ sugar, beating
oven. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt until combined. Increase mixer speed to
6. In another small bowl, whisk together 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) apple pie spice medium-high; beat until light and fluffy,
egg and remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in apple butter. Use
water. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda immediately.
september | october 2023 62
WITH THEIR SWEET, BUTTERY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER
ECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AM
RECIPE
R AMANDA STABILE
AAND ND CRUMBLY TEXTURE, FULL FOOD STYLING BY AARO
AARON CONRAD
STYLING BY MARY BE
BETH JONES
OOFF SEASONAL FLAVORS, THESE HAND MODELING BY TER
TERESA JONES

EENCHANTING
NCHANTING BAKES ARE HERE
FFOROR YOU WHEN YOU WANT A
LLOVELY
OVELY PIE BUT JUST CAN’T BE
BBOTHERED
OTHERED WITH A ROLLING PIN
september | october 2023 64
APPLE CRUMB PIE 3. Bake until edges are set and center is
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie dry and lightly golden, 6 to 8 minutes.
Carefully remove parchment and weights,
A spice-tinged buttery crumble is not only and bake until surface is dry and set,
the crowning glory on top of a towering 3 to 5 minutes more. Let cool on a
display of sliced fruit but also doubles as the wire rack for at least 20 minutes.
press-in piecrust. Leave oven on.
4. In another large bowl, stir
2¼ cups (281 grams) plus ⅓ cup together apples, lemon juice,
(42 grams) all-purpose flour, divided remaining ½ cup (100 grams
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar, sugar, remaining ⅓ cup (42 grams)
divided flour, and remaining 1½ teaspoons
2½ teaspoons (5 grams) apple pie spice, (3 grams) pie spice. Pile apple
divided mixture into prepared crust. (It
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt will seem like it won’t fit in the
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, crust, but use your hands or a
melted spatula to press the apples in
1 large egg (50 grams), room to fit.) Top with reserved ¾ cup
temperature (165 grams) crumble mixture.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 5. Bake until crust is golden
7 cups (670 grams) ⅛-inch-sliced brown and apples are tender,
Honeycrisp or Pink Lady apples about 40 minutes. Let cool
1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon completely on a wire rack before
juice serving. Cover and refrigerate for
up to 3 days.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
a 9-inch deep-dish metal pie plate with
baking spray with flour.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together 2¼ cups
(281 grams) flour, ¾ cup (150 grams)
sugar, 1 teaspoon (2 grams) pie spice, and
salt. Gradually add melted butter, egg, and
vanilla, stirring until just combined and
mixture is crumbly. Reserve ¾ cup
(165 grams) crumble mixture. Press
remaining crumble mixture into bottom
and up sides of prepared plate ¼ inch
away from top edge. Top with a
piece of parchment paper. Add
pie weights.

september | october 2023 66

67 bake from scratch
FIG CHEESECAKE PIE
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

This creamy, dreamy dessert marbled with fruity

spread atop a buttery gingersnap crust is divine.

2 cups (200 grams) gingersnap cookie

crumbs
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown
sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams) cream
cheese, softened
⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose flour
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature
¼ cup (60 grams) sour cream, room
temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
½ cup (160 grams) fig preserves*, divided
1 teaspoon (1 gram) orange zest

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together
gingersnap crumbs, brown sugar, and salt. Add
melted butter, stirring until combined. Using
the bottom of a measuring cup, gently press
crumb mixture into bottom and up sides of a
9-inch pie plate.
3. Bake until fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let
cool completely on a wire rack. Reduce oven
temperature to 325°F (170°C).
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese
at medium speed until creamy, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl. Add granulated sugar
and flour, beating until combined. Add eggs,
one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Reduce mixer speed to low; add sour cream
and vanilla, beating until smooth. Beat in
¼ cup (80 grams) preserves and orange
zest. Pour cream cheese mixture into cooled
prepared crust.
5. Spoon remaining ¼ cup (80 grams)
preserves into a pastry bag; cut a ½-inch
opening in tip. Gently pipe preserves onto
filling as desired. Using a wooden pick,
carefully swirl preserves and filling.
6. Bake until edges are set and lightly puffed
and an instant-read thermometer inserted
in center registers at least 155°F (68°C),
40 to 45 minutes. Let cool completely on
a wire rack. Refrigerate until cold and set
before serving, about 3 hours. Cover and
refrigerate for up to 3 days.

*We used Bonne Maman Fig Preserves.

september | october 2023 68
BROOKIE PIE
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

You no longer have to decide between a

gloriously soft chocolate chip cookie and
a fudgy brownie; this indulgent treat has
everything to slake your deepest chocolate
craving.

6 ounces (170 grams) bittersweet

chocolate, chopped
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
⅔ cup (147 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar*
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar*
½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (5 grams) unsweetened
cocoa powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
¼ teaspoon instant espresso powder
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature and lightly beaten
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Chocolate Chip Cookie Crust (recipe
follows)
Sweetened whipped cream, to serve

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

2. In the top of a double boiler, combine
chocolate and butter. Cook over simmering
water, stirring occasionally, until melted
and smooth. Remove from heat, and whisk
in sugars until well combined. Let cool
slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
cocoa, salt, and espresso powder.
4. Gradually add eggs to chocolate mixture,
whisking until combined. Whisk in vanilla.
Fold in flour mixture just until combined.
Spread batter into cold Chocolate Chip
Cookie Crust.
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out with a few moist crumbs,
55 minutes to 1 hour and 5 minutes. Let
cool completely on a wire rack. Serve
with whipped cream. Store in an airtight
container for up to 3 days.

*We used C&H Light Brown and Granulated

Sugars. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract flour and salt. Gradually add flour
1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour mixture to butter mixture, stirring until
CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE CRUST ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt almost combined. Fold in chocolate until
Makes 1 (9-inch) crust 2 ounces (57 grams) bittersweet combined and no dry streaks remain.
chocolate, finely chopped 3. Spray a 9-inch pie plate with baking
⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light spray with flour. Press dough into bottom
brown sugar 1. In a large bowl, whisk together brown and halfway up sides of prepared plate.
⅓ cup (75 grams) unsalted butter, melted sugar, melted butter, egg, and vanilla. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes,
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together or until ready to use.
september | october 2023 70
 I N G I N
FA L L
V E wit h
LO AK E S
F A L L C

THESE QUINTESSENTIAL
COMFORTS ARE READY
FOR ANY CRAVING THIS
FALL, WHETHER YOU NEED
A BRIGHT, FRUITY PICK-
ME-UP OR A WARM AND
WELCOMING TREAT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
september | october 2023 72
Cookie Butter
Pound Cake
page 78
cover recipe
Sweet Potato Spice Cake
with Toasted Meringue
page 79

september | october 2023 74

 Pear-Ricotta Cake
page 79

75 bake from scratch

Spiced Oat Cake
page 79
BROWNED BUTTER CAKE buttercream on top and sides of cake. 1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt
WITH SPICED ORANGE Refrigerate in airtight container for up to 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
BUTTERCREAM 3 days. ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk,
room temperature
A warmly spiced citrus frosting coats PRO TIP Cookie Butter Glaze (recipe follows)
the enchanting layers of this rich and Visit bakefromscratch.com for our Garnish: crushed speculaas cookies
nutty cake created with browned butter. step-by-step guide to making browned
Surprisingly easy to make, this might be butter. 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C).
your new fall favorite! 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
ORANGE-CARDAMOM BUTTERCREAM the paddle attachment, beat butter, sugars,
1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter, Makes about 8 cups and cookie butter at medium speed until
softened fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape
3⅓ cups (417 grams) all-purpose flour 3½ cups (794 grams) unsalted butter, sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder softened beating well after each addition. Beat in
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 1¾ teaspoons (5.25 grams) kosher salt vanilla.
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda 9 cups (1,080 grams) confectioners’ 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar sugar* salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. With mixer
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) heavy on low speed, gradually add flour mixture
temperature whipping cream to butter mixture alternately with milk,
3 large eggs (150 grams), room 1 tablespoon (3 grams) orange zest beginning and ending with flour mixture,
temperature 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract beating just until combined after each
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamom addition.
Orange-Cardamom Buttercream (recipe 4. Spray a 15-cup Bundt pan with baking
follows) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted spray with flour. Spoon batter into
with the paddle attachment, beat butter prepared pan. Firmly tap pan on a kitchen
1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over and salt at medium speed until light and towel-lined counter 6 to 8 times to settle
medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. With mixer on batter and release any air bubbles.
until butter turns a medium-brown color low speed, add confectioners’ sugar, 1 cup 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near
and has a nutty aroma, about 10 minutes. (120 grams) at a time, beating well after center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour
Pour into a shallow heatproof baking dish. each addition, stopping to scrape bottom and 5 minutes, loosely covering with
Let cool for at least 20 minutes. and sides of bowl. Beat in cream, orange foil during final 10 minutes of baking to
2. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray zest, vanilla, and cardamom. Gradually prevent excess browning. Let cool in pan
2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking increase speed to high, and beat until light for 10 minutes. Invert cake onto a wire
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Use immediately. rack, and let cool completely.
parchment paper. 6. Spread Cookie Butter Glaze onto cooled
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, *We used C&H Powdered Sugar. cake. Garnish with cookies, if desired.
baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Store in an airtight container for up to
4. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, COOKIE BUTTER POUND CAKE 3 days.
milk, eggs, and vanilla. Whisk in cooled Makes 1 (15-cup) Bundt cake
browned butter. Gradually add flour COOKIE BUTTER GLAZE
mixture, stirring until just combined and Dig into this alluring twist on the classic Makes about ¾ cup
no dry streaks remain. Divide batter pound cake, sweetly spiced with smooth
between prepared pans (about 3 cups or cookie butter and sprinkled with crushed 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
850 grams each). cookies. A divine glaze is the pièce de ½ cup (128 grams) cookie butter
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in résistance of an already incredible cake. ¼ cup (60 grams) plus 1 tablespoon
center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. (15 grams) whole milk
Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter,
from pans, and let cool completely on a softened 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
wire rack. 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar the whisk attachment, beat confectioners’
6. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut cooled ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light sugar, cookie butter, and ¼ cup (60 grams)
cake layers in half horizontally. Place 1 cake brown sugar milk at medium speed just until combined,
layer, cut side up, on a serving plate. ¾ cup (192 grams) cookie butter stopping to scrape bottom and sides of
Spread 1½ cups (365 grams) Orange- 5 large eggs (250 grams), room bowl. Slowly increase speed to high, and
Cardamom Buttercream on top. Repeat temperature beat until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes; add up
layers twice. Top with remaining cake 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract to 1 tablespoon (15 grams) milk if glaze is
layer, cut side down. Spread remaining 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour too thick. Use immediately.

september | october 2023 78

 SWEET POTATO SPICE CAKE Note: Bake 2 large foil-wrapped sweet 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
WITH TOASTED MERINGUE potatoes in a 400°F (200°C) oven until an 8-inch round cake pan with baking
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake tender, about 1 hour. Halve potatoes spray with flour. Line bottom of pan with
lengthwise, and let cool completely, cut side parchment paper.
This fall stunner is ready to impress with a up. Peel potatoes and mash flesh smooth with 2. Cut pear in half. Discard stem, and using
generous serving of sweet potato and fluffy a fork before measuring. Mashed flesh freezes a melon baller or spoon, scoop out core.
peaks of meringue topping! well in a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag; let Slice halves lengthwise into ¼-inch slices.
it thaw completely before using. In a medium bowl, toss together pear slices
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, and lemon juice.
softened SWISS MERINGUE 3. In another medium bowl, whisk together
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar Makes about 5 cups flour, baking powder, salt, and cardamom.
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light 4. In a large bowl, whisk together
brown sugar 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar granulated sugar and lemon zest until sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room 5 large egg whites (150 grams), room resembles wet sand. Whisk in ricotta, oil,
temperature temperature eggs, and vanilla. Fold in flour mixture until
1½ cups (365 grams) mashed baked sweet 2 tablespoons (42 grams) light corn syrup almost combined. Add chopped pear, and
potato (see Note) ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt fold until fully combined and no dry streaks
2½ teaspoons (10 grams) vanilla extract ½ teaspoon (1 gram) cream of tartar remain. Spread into prepared pan. Top with
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract pear slices as desired.
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 5. Bake until edges are golden and a wooden
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon 1. In the top of a double boiler, whisk pick inserted in center comes out with a few
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda together sugar, egg whites, corn syrup, salt, moist crumbs, 55 minutes to 1 hour and
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt and cream of tartar. Cook over simmering 5 minutes, covering with foil after
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground ginger water, stirring occasionally, until a candy 30 minutes of baking to prevent excess
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper thermometer registers 140°F (60°C). browning. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes.
¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk, 2. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand Remove from pan, and place on a wire rack.
room temperature mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. 6. In a small microwave-safe bowl, combine
Swiss Meringue (recipe follows) Beat at high speed until mixture has cooled honey and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
and tripled in volume, 5 to 7 minutes. Beat Heat on high in 15-second intervals, stirring
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a in vanilla. Use immediately. between each, until honey is melted. Stir
9-inch square baking pan with baking spray until combined. Using a pastry brush, brush
with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, PEAR-RICOTTA CAKE honey syrup over warm pears in top of cake.
letting excess extend over two sides of pan. Makes 1 (8-inch) cake Let cool completely on wire rack.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 7. When ready to serve, garnish with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and This tender-crumbed, fruit-studded cake confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Refrigerate
sugars at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to packs a delightfully fresh punch in every in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of glorious bite.
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well *We used BelGioioso Ricotta con Latte® Cheese.
after each addition. Add sweet potato and 1 medium red Bartlett pear (about
vanilla, and beat just until combined. 150 grams) SPICED OAT CAKE
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1 teaspoon (1 gram) lemon zest Makes 1 (8-inch) cake
baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon
salt, ginger, and pepper. With mixer on juice This richly spiced wonder is everything you
low speed, gradually add flour mixture to 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour love about fall but in a delicious, layered cake!
butter mixture alternately with buttermilk, 1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking powder Thanks to a hearty mix of cooked oatmeal
beginning and ending with flour mixture, 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt and toasted oats, the crumb has a delightfully
beating until just combined after each ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom delicate and chewy texture in each bite.
addition. Spread batter into prepared pan. ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in 1 cup (240 grams) whole-milk ricotta 1¼ cups (150 grams) old-fashioned oats,
center comes out clean, 1 hour and cheese* divided
5 minutes to 1 hour and 10 minutes. Let ⅓ cup (75 grams) vegetable oil ¾ cup (180 grams) boiling water
cool completely in pan on a wire rack. 2 large eggs (100 grams), room 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter,
5. Using excess parchment as handles, temperature softened
remove cooled cake from pan. Top with ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract 1¾ cups (350 grams) granulated sugar
Swiss Meringue as desired. Using a 1½ cups (150 grams) chopped red Bartlett 3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature
handheld kitchen torch, carefully brown pear 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
meringue. Serve immediately. Store in an 1 tablespoon (21 grams) honey 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour
airtight container for up to 2 days. 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water 2 tablespoons (10 grams) unsweetened
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar cocoa powder
79 bake from scratch
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk,
room temperature
¾ cup (140 grams) mini chocolate chips
Spiced Buttercream (recipe follows)
Garnish: mini chocolate chips, cocoa powder

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray

2 (8-inch) round cake pans with baking
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with
parchment paper. Line a baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2. On prepared baking sheet, spread ¾ cup
(90 grams) oats.
3. Bake until lightly toasted and fragrant,
15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely on
pan. Leave oven on.
4. In a medium heatproof bowl, combine
¾ cup (180 grams) boiling water and
remaining ½ cup (60 grams) oats. Let
stand until slightly cooled and most of
water is absorbed, about 10 minutes.
5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and and sides of cake. Pipe
sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to reserved buttercream
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of on top of cake as desired.
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well Sprinkle reserved 2 tablespoons
after each addition. Beat in vanilla. (15 grams) toasted oats onto
6. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cake. Garnish with chocolate chips
cocoa, baking powder, cinnamon, baking and cocoa, if desired. Refrigerate in
soda, salt, nutmeg, and ginger. With an airtight container for up to 3 days.
mixer on low speed, gradually add flour
mixture to butter mixture alternately with SPICED BUTTERCREAM
buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour Makes about 7 cups
mixture, beating just until combined after
each addition. Beat in oatmeal. Reserve 2½ cups (565 grams) unsalted butter,
2 tablespoons (15 grams) toasted oats; softened
fold chocolate chips and remaining toasted 1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt
oats into batter. Divide batter between 7 cups (840 grams) confectioners’ sugar
prepared cake pans (about 3 cups or ¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping cream
845 grams each), smoothing tops with an 1¼ teaspoons (5 grams) vanilla extract
offset spatula as needed. ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
7. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Let cool 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, the paddle attachment, beat butter and salt
and let cool completely on a wire rack. at medium speed until smooth and creamy,
8. Level cooled cake layers, if desired. Place 1 to 2 minutes. With mixer on low speed,
1 cake layer on a serving plate. Spread add confectioners’ sugar, 1 cup (120 grams)
1½ cups (315 grams) Spiced Buttercream at a time, beating well after each addition,
on top. Top with remaining cake layer. stopping to scrape bottom and sides of
Spoon 1½ cups (315 grams) buttercream bowl. Beat in cream, vanilla, and cinnamon.
into a pastry bag fitted with a medium Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and
French star piping tip (Ateco #866). beat until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.
Spread remaining buttercream on top Use immediately.
 A BOUNTY OF
QUICK BREADS
FILL YOUR BREAD BASKET WITH THESE SIMPLE YET SCRUMPTIOUS BISCUITS, LOAVES, AND MUFFINS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE

FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Streusel-Topped Baked
Sweet Potato Bread
page 87

september | october 2023 82

Pumpkin-Chocolate
Swirl Bread
page 86
Spiced Apple Scones
page 90

september | october 2023 84

PRO TIP
The line of butter on top of the
batter helps create the signature
domed rise and lengthwise crack
in the top of a quick bread loaf—
not mention a little extra flavor!
APPLE CIDER DOUGHNUT LOAF PUMPKIN-CHOCOLATE SWIRL
Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf BREAD
Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf
A crunchy sprinkle of cinnamon sugar simply
but elegantly finishes this fragrant bread. This beautifully marbled bake is as indulgent
to eat as it is pretty to present.
4 cups (960 grams) apple cider
⅔ cup (133 grams) plus 2 tablespoons 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
(24 grams) granulated sugar, divided 1 tablespoon (6 grams) pumpkin pie
½ cup (120 grams) unsweetened spice
applesauce 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking
⅓ cup (75 grams) neutral oil powder
1 large egg (50 grams), room 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
temperature ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 1 cup (240 grams) canned pumpkin
2⅔ cups (333 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (6 grams) plus ½ teaspoon ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light
(1 gram) ground cinnamon, divided brown sugar
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 2 large eggs (100 grams), room
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt temperature
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda 3 tablespoons (42 grams) vegetable oil
1 teaspoon (4.5 grams) unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
room temperature ½ cup (128 grams) hazelnut chocolate
spread*
1. In a large saucepan, bring cider to a boil
over medium-high heat; cook, stirring 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
occasionally, until reduced to ¾ cup an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray
(205 grams), 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove with flour. Line pan with parchment paper,
from heat, and let cool completely. letting excess extend over sides of pan.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray pie spice, baking powder, salt, and baking
with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, soda.
letting excess extend over sides of pan. 3. In a large bowl, whisk together
3. In a large bowl, whisk together ⅔ cup pumpkin, sugars, eggs, oil, and vanilla
(133 grams) sugar, applesauce, oil, egg, until smooth. Whisk in flour mixture
and vanilla. until thick and smooth. Spread half of
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, batter (about 1¼ cups or 375 grams)
1 tablespoon (6 grams) cinnamon, baking into prepared pan.
powder, salt, and baking soda. Gradually add 4. Spoon hazelnut chocolate spread
flour mixture to sugar mixture alternately into a pastry bag, and cut a ¼-inch
with reduced cider, beginning and ending opening in tip. Pipe half of spread
with flour mixture, whisking until just evenly onto batter, leaving a ¼-inch
combined after each addition. Spread batter border around edges. Using an offset
into prepared pan. spatula or skewer, gently swirl together
5. Spoon butter into a pastry bag, and cut a spread and batter, avoiding sides of pan.
¼-inch opening in tip. Pipe butter in a line Repeat procedure with remaining batter
down center of batter. and remaining hazelnut chocolate spread.
6. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar and center comes out with a few moist crumbs,
remaining ½ teaspoon (1 gram) cinnamon; 50 to 55 minutes. Let cool in pan for
sprinkle onto batter. 10 minutes. Using excess parchment as
7. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in handles, remove from pan, and let cool
center comes out with a few moist crumbs, completely on a wire rack. Store in an
50 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool in pan on airtight container for up to 3 days.
a wire rack for 10 minutes. Using excess
parchment as handles, remove from pan, *We used Bonne Maman Hazelnut
and let cool completely on a wire rack. Store Chocolate Spread.
in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
 STREUSEL-TOPPED BAKED SPICED STREUSEL Top each with 2½ tablespoons (39 grams)
SWEET POTATO BREAD Makes ½ cup batter. Fill empty muffin cups about two-
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf thirds full with water. (See Note.)
¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour 5. Bake until browned and domed and a
Do yourself a favor and bake several sweet 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated wooden pick inserted in center comes out
potatoes at once so you can whip up this loaf sugar with a few moist crumbs, 15 to 18 minutes.
in record time when the craving strikes. ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg Remove from pan, and top each with
2¾ cups (344 grams) all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted 2 tablespoons (45 grams) Pecan Pie Glaze.
2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon butter, softened Let stand until glaze sets, about 5 minutes.
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt Store in an airtight container for up to
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 3 days.
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Using a
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in butter *We used Schermer Pecans.
¼ teaspoon ground cloves until mixture is crumbly and butter is
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar incorporated. Refrigerate for at least Note: Adding water to the empty muffin cups
1 cup (243 grams) mashed baked sweet 30 minutes or until ready to use. helps keep your pan from warping in the oven.
potato (see Note)
¾ cup (168 grams) vegetable oil CREAM CHEESE-FILLED PECAN CREAM CHEESE FILLING
2 large eggs (100 grams), room PIE MUFFINS Makes ⅓ cup
temperature Makes 6 muffins
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 3 ounces (86 grams) cream cheese,
Spiced Streusel (recipe follows) We took a cue from Hummingbird High softened
blogger Michelle Lopez and left every other 2 teaspoons (6 grams) all-purpose flour
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray cup of the muffin pan empty for maximum 2 teaspoons (8 teaspoons) granulated
a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray with doming and rise to these muffins. sugar
flour. Line pan with parchment paper, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) whole milk
letting excess extend over sides of pan. 1⅓ cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking powder
cinnamon, salt, baking powder, nutmeg, ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt 1. In a small bowl, whisk cream cheese until
baking soda, and cloves. ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg smooth. Add flour and sugar, whisking until
3. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light smooth and sugar dissolves. Whisk in milk
sweet potato, oil, eggs, and vanilla until brown sugar and vanilla. Use immediately, or refrigerate
smooth. Gradually add flour mixture, ⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk, room until ready to use.
stirring until just combined and no dry temperature
streaks remain. Spread batter into prepared ⅓ cup (75 grams) neutral oil PECAN PIE GLAZE
pan. Using a knife or offset spatula, make 1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature Makes 1 cup
a 1-inch-deep line down center of batter. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Sprinkle Spiced Streusel all over batter. ½ cup (57 grams) coarsely chopped ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light
4. Bake until top is set and a wooden pick pecans* brown sugar
inserted in center comes out with a few Cream Cheese Filling (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
moist crumbs, 1 hour and 15 minutes to Pecan Pie Glaze (recipe follows) butter, room temperature
1 hour and 25 minutes. Let cool in pan on 2 tablespoons (30 grams) heavy
a wire rack for 10 minutes. Using excess 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray whipping cream, room temperature
parchment as handles, remove from pan, 6 alternating cups of a 12-cup muffin pan ¼ cup (28 grams) finely chopped pecans
and let cool completely on a wire rack. with baking spray with flour.
Store in an airtight container for up to 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1. In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan,
3 days. baking powder, salt, and nutmeg. bring brown sugar and butter to a boil over
3. In a large bowl, whisk together brown medium heat, stirring frequently until
Note: Bake a large foil-wrapped sweet potato sugar, milk, oil, egg, and vanilla. Gradually sugar dissolves. Gradually stir in cream.
in a 400°F (200°C) oven until tender, about add flour mixture, stirring until almost Remove from heat, and stir in pecans.
1 hour. Halve potato lengthwise, and let cool combined. Add pecans, and stir until Use immediately. (See Note.)
completely, cut side up. Peel potato and mash combined and no dry streaks remain.
flesh smooth with a fork before measuring. 4. Spoon 2½ tablespoons (39 grams) batter Note: Use the glaze as soon as you make it;
Mashed flesh freezes well in a heavy-duty into each prepared muffin cup. Spoon it firms up quickly as it cools.
resealable plastic bag; let it thaw completely 2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) Cream Cheese
before using. Filling into center of batter in each cup.

87 bake from scratch

APPLE-CHEDDAR-SAGE
BISCUITS
Makes 12 biscuits

The golden-brown exterior of these biscuits

gives way to a soft and tender interior that
readily soaks up a generous slather of butter.

3¾ cups (469 grams) all-purpose flour

3½ teaspoons (14 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt
1 tablespoon (4 grams) packed fresh
sage leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper
1 cup (227 grams) cold unsalted butter,
cubed
1 cup (113 grams) shredded sharp
Cheddar cheese
1 medium Gala or Honeycrisp apple
(200 grams), peeled and shredded
(see Notes)
¾ cup (180 grams) cold whole buttermilk
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
Fresh sage leaves (optional)
Flaked sea salt (optional), for sprinkling
Softened butter, to serve

1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a

baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
sugar, baking powder, kosher salt, chopped
sage, and pepper. Add cold butter, tossing
to coat. Using a pastry blender or your
hands, cut in butter until mixture is
crumbly and butter pieces are pea-size. Stir
in cheese and apple. Add cold buttermilk,
and fold until a shaggy dough forms.
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured
surface. (Dough will be crumbly and almost
dry.) Pat dough into a rectangle about
1 inch thick. Using a lightly floured rolling
pin, roll dough into about a 15x6-inch
rectangle. Using a bench or bowl scraper,
fold dough in thirds like a letter. Rotate
dough 90 degrees. Repeat rolling, folding,
and rotating three times. (Dough will seem
too shaggy to do this to start but will be
easier to work with as you go.)
4. Pat or roll dough into a 9½x7½-inch
rectangle (about 1 inch thick). Using a
sharp knife or a floured bench scraper, trim
¼ inch off all sides, if desired. (See Notes.)
Cut dough into 12 biscuits. Place 2 inches
apart on prepared pan. Freeze until firm,
about 10 minutes.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and dough together. Roll or pat dough into a
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Brush egg 7-inch circle (about 1 inch thick). Using a
wash onto biscuits; top with sage leaves (if floured knife or bench scraper, cut into
using), and sprinkle with sea salt (if using). 8 wedges. Place at least 2 inches apart
6. Bake until golden brown, 15 to on prepared pan. Freeze until firm, about
20 minutes. Serve warm with softened 15 minutes.
butter. 5. Brush 2 tablespoons (30 grams) cream
onto dough wedges.
Notes: Peel the apple and shred it on a 6. Bake until golden brown and a wooden
box grater just before adding it to the flour pick inserted in center comes out clean,
mixture. 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool on pan for
10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let
Trimming the edges of the dough helps the cool completely on a wire rack.
biscuits rise evenly, but this step is entirely 7. In a medium bowl, whisk
optional. They’ll taste great regardless. together confectioners’ sugar,
5 tablespoons (75 grams) cream,
SPICED APPLE SCONES remaining ½ teaspoon (3 grams)
Makes 8 scones vanilla paste, and remaining
¼ teaspoon five-spice powder
Fragrant and not too sweet, these scones are until smooth and pourable;
best paired with a cup of coffee or tea for an whisk in up to remaining
afternoon snack. 1 tablespoon (15 grams)
cream if needed. Drizzle glaze
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour onto cooled scones. Store in
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar an airtight container for up to
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) baking powder 3 days.
1½ teaspoons (2.5 grams) Chinese
five-spice powder, divided
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda
6 tablespoons (84 grams) cold unsalted
butter, cubed
1 cup (120 grams) finely diced firm
sweet apple
1 cup (240 grams) plus 8 tablespoons
(120 grams) heavy whipping cream,
divided
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) vanilla bean
paste, divided
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line

a rimmed baking sheet with parchment
paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
granulated sugar, baking powder,
1¼ teaspoons (2.5 grams) five-spice powder,
salt, and baking soda. Using a pastry blender
or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture
resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in apple.
3. In a small bowl, stir together 1 cup
(240 grams) cream and 1 teaspoon
(6 grams) vanilla bean paste. Add cream
mixture to flour mixture, and stir until
combined and no dry streaks remain.
4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured
surface. Gently knead 2 to 3 times to bring
 BY MORGAN CRAWFORD SCOTT
ELEY, DREW BALFOUR,
SCENIC PHOTOGRAPHY BY
AND GABRIEL HANWAY

and
His
A NEW CHAPTER IN THE SCHERMER STORY FOR THIS SOUTHERN-BASED PECAN PURVEYOR

A s we wind through row after row of

flowering trees in a pecan orchard just
south of Albany, Georgia, Francis Putney
“Putt” Wetherbee III—whose namesake is philanthropist
and planter Francis Flagg Putney—proceeds to shimmy
As we make our way through the 3,600-acre property,
we take in the solitude the orchard provides on a
balmy day in late spring. Arriving at a small fishpond
scattered with bass and speckled perch, Putt recalls
the fond memories it holds, from his own childhood as
his truck up next to a branch that’s extending just shy well as for his daughters, Frannie, Berkeley, and Sims,
of the dirt road. A fifth-generation grower, second- with wife Margaret, and to present day. Putt notices
generation owner, and the president of Georgia-based a bass spawning toward the bank, and I can sense his
Schermer Pecans, Putt shows me the “flowers” or excitement as he daydreams about afternoons to come
“nutlets” starting to open on the pecan tree, a marker by the water.
for a full-fledged pecan come fall.
september | october 2023 92
We continue to tour the seemingly never-ending
property when we spot an old well nearby. “I remember
when we put the well over here,” Putt says. “I was little,
and, of course, if there was water anywhere, I was in it.
When they were pumping it off to make sure it was in
good shape, I kept getting stuck in the mud, and the
farm manager had to pull me out of the mud—I lost my
boots.”

Next to the well is an old farm shack whose beauty has

faded. It had once belonged to Putt’s grandmother,
serving as her luncheon cabin during hunting season;
not far from there, Putt’s own retrofitted deer stand is
disguised. Moments later, we lay eyes on a herd of wild
deer delicately prancing among the trees and then a
large fox squirrel quickly scaling a tree trunk. Though
I have little hunting experience myself, I spot a large
gobbler (a wild male turkey) carefully weaving through
the brush of Italian ryegrass and clover. Putt, pleasantly
surprised by my sighting, starts “calling” the turkey
in perfect pitch, sharing an anecdote about how his
daughters were always amused by it. It’s evident that
spotting these animals in their natural habitat ignites a
spark in Putt, and he chats at length about his love of
hunting—especially here—with childlike wonder.

It dawns on me then that to speak of the pecan

orchards only as a means of producing perfectly
packaged bags of delicious Schermer pecans would be
an injustice to the understated grandeur the orchards
possess. They’re more than just a place to grow millions
of pounds of a prized nut in the South—they’re
countless hours of tending to crop, lessons learned
while gaining knowledge on pecan farming, little
moments shared between parents and children, and a
stockpile of memories that spans generations and, Putt
hopes, for generations to come.

More than seven decades have passed since Schermer’s

founding in 1946. Frank Wetherbee, Putt’s father,
started Nut Tree Pecan Company in the 1960s, after
being gifted a piece of the orchard to farm as a wedding
present in the late 1950s. Frank, a natural innovator,
owned only the second automated nut harvester
(called a Ramacher) in Georgia, which would pick up
the pecans and transfer them to a conveyor belt into a
buggy. “I was captivated with it [the Ramacher],” Putt
says, who knew, even as a little boy, that he wanted to
take over the company one day.
 Impressively, to this day, Schermer is one of just a
few family-run pecan companies that still has a hand
in every step of the process—from planting trees to
harvesting to the moment they reach the customer’s
table. The orchards—which feature five varieties of
pecans: Cape Fear, Stuart, Kiowa, Elliot, and their
best-selling and oldest variety, Desirable—are located
throughout three locations in Georgia. At this one near
Albany, Putt recalls how he “can remember almost
every phase of this particular orchard being planted.”

While pecans are, of course, an integral part of Putt’s

story, they aren’t the entirety. “I’m getting better at
telling certain parts of my personal story,” Putt admits.
“Now, I’m at a place where I want to tell a different
story than I have before.”

In 2017, he endured an incident that would forever

change life as he knew it. While home alone on his
hunting property, Putt was attacked by a group of
people who were attempting to steal shotguns and
money out of his safe, and their brutal assault left him
paralyzed from the chest down. Despite all odds, he
persisted, making it his mission not to let this senseless
act of violence alter his life in a negative way. “The
world today is overloaded with victims,” Putt says. “I
don’t want to add to that negativity. This is a part of my
life’s story, and I will embrace it and get past it in the
best way I can.”

His new way of living is just that: new. He reflects

on how fortunate he is to possess an earnest and
deep-rooted faith and to have the financial means to
accommodate his new lifestyle, whether that’s through
a wheelchair-accessible vehicle, rehabilitation and
physical therapy classes, or modified ways of running
the farm, including a specialized machine that allows
him to navigate the rugged terrain of the orchards solo.

Putt’s approach to pecan-farming has had to change,

but it certainly hasn’t stopped him, nor has it affected
his quality of work. “The people around me who have
stepped up after the incident are so valuable. It’s not
me who makes this entire thing go round. My team
is proactive and committed, and Schermer wouldn’t
be the success that it is without everyone working
collaboratively.”

95 bake from scratch

“ I want to be a
good steward of
the land and be
seen from the
outside world as
a good citizen of
sustainability.”
PECAN-MAPLE-BOURBON
STICKY BUNS
Makes 12 buns

Fresh, crunchy pecans are the perfect

addition to these pillowy swirls, and your
home will be filled with a buttery, spiced,
mouthwatering aroma while they bake!

Dough:
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)
5 tablespoons (60 grams) granulated
sugar, divided
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
3¾ cups (468 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
and room temperature

Topping:
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
½ cup (170 grams) maple syrup
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter
5 tablespoons (75 grams) bourbon
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (100 grams) Schermer Pecan
Halves
½ cup (57 grams) chopped Schermer 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. sugar dissolves. Cook, stirring frequently,
Pecans Beat at medium-low speed until dough until slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.
is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, 7 to Pour mixture into prepared pan, lightly
Filling: 9 minutes. With mixer on medium-low spreading to edges. Sprinkle pecan halves
⅔ cup (145 grams) firmly packed light speed, add butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) and chopped pecans on top.
brown sugar at a time, beating until combined after 7. For filling: In a small bowl, stir together
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room each addition (about 8 minutes total). brown sugar, butter, cinnamon, and salt.
temperature Beat until a smooth, elastic dough forms, 8. Lightly punch down dough. Cover and
1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground cinnamon 6 to 8 minutes. (Dough will be tacky but let stand for 5 minutes. Turn out dough
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt should clean sides of the bowl.) Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, and roll into
1 cup (113 grams) finely chopped dough onto a very lightly floured surface, an 18x12-inch rectangle. Spread filling
Schermer Pecans and knead 5 to 8 times. Shape dough into a mixture over dough, leaving a ¼-inch
smooth round. border on one long side. Sprinkle finely
1. For dough: In a small bowl, stir together 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough chopped pecans on top. Starting with side
warm milk, 1 tablespoon (12 grams) in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover opposite border, roll dough into a 19-inch
granulated sugar, and yeast. Let stand until and let rise in a warm, draft-free place log. Trim ½ inch off each end. Cut into
foamy, about 5 minutes. (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 12 slices (about 1½ inches each). Place
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 45 minutes to 1 hour. (Alternatively, cover in prepared pan on top of pecans. Cover
together 2 cups (250 grams) flour, salt, and refrigerate overnight; punch down and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
and remaining 4 tablespoons (48 grams) dough and let stand at room temperature (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size,
granulated sugar. Add yeast mixture, eggs, for 30 minutes before shaping.) 45 minutes to 1 hour.
and vanilla; using the paddle attachment, 5. Lightly spray a 13x9-inch baking dish 9. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
beat at low speed until combined, about with baking spray with flour. 10. Bake until golden brown, 35 to
1 minute; scrape sides of bowl. With mixer 6. For topping: In a medium saucepan, 40 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes. Invert
on low speed, gradually add remaining bring brown sugar, maple syrup, butter, buns onto a rimmed serving dish. Serve
1¾ cups (219 grams) flour, beating until a bourbon, and salt to a boil over medium- warm or at room temperature. Store in an
shaggy dough forms; scrape sides of bowl. high heat, stirring occasionally until airtight container for up to 3 days.
september | october 2023 98
With his eyes set on the future, Putt plans to focus
more on regenerative and sustainable farming. The
company has established a five-year plan to improve
the soil-plant relationship by leaning more on biology,
such as beneficial bacteria and fungi, rather than
traditional chemistry methods, such as herbicides
and synthetic fertilizers. This new way of thinking—
understanding the microbial community and the soil
and how those interact with the trees—will also enable
them to use less water. “It’s a big learning curve,” Putt
says. “However, I want to be a good steward of the land
and be seen from the outside world as a good citizen of
sustainability.”

Though he’s quick to dismiss words like “inspirational”

and “heroic,” his grit, innovation, and uncrackable spirit
in the face of setback are unmistakable, and it’s these
traits that will surely empower Putt to leave a legacy
that honors his family’s rich heritage in this industry.

“ The harvest
process is
fascinating,
and there are
thousands of
moving parts.”
Harvest Time
Fall is the busiest time of year for the Schermer
team, when they begin preparing for harvest. In
early September, trees are surveyed and equipment
is prepped. By mid-October, branches are heavy
with pecans, and harvest season commences. The
company typically has a team of 25, but they hire up
to 80 people during the fall.

“The harvest process is fascinating, and there are

thousands of moving parts,” Putt says. “First, we have
to assess the trees to determine if the pecans are
ready to come off by looking to see if the shuck that
surrounds the nut is split open and pulled back from
the nut. Once we determine the trees are ready, we
begin shaking them.”

To shake each tree, a specialized piece of equipment

is fixed to the trunk, vibrating it so that the pecans
fall to the ground. Other equipment is used to rake
and blow the nuts across the orchard floor into what
is called a windrow: a pile of pecans about 3 feet wide.
Then, a harvester machine picks up the windrows and
separates the sticks, leaves, and dirt from the nuts.
Once the nuts have gone through the harvester,
they’re dumped into a cart that empties them into
a trailer to be transported to a plant to be cleaned,
dried, graded, and bagged for market.

Visit schermerpecans.com/pages/bake-from-scratch
-readers to receive 10% off your first purchase.

september | october 2023 100

DEEP-DISH PECAN-PUMPKIN 1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
PIE 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll All- Quick Facts
Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish pie Butter Piecrust to ⅛-inch thickness (about
13 inches). Transfer dough to a 9-inch
With a sturdy and rustic crust that envelops springform pan, pressing into bottom and
a generous amount of fragrant filling and
a crunchy candied nut topping, this pie has
up sides. (Do not trim or fold any excess
crust; let it extend fully up sides of pan.)
50,000+
plenty of personality. Dock bottom of crust with a fork. Top with
foil, letting excess extend over sides of pan.
trees
All-Butter Piecrust (recipe on page 62) Add pie weights. Freeze until firm, about IN THEIR ORCHARDS
2 large egg whites (30 grams), divided 15 minutes.
and lightly beaten 3. Bake until edges are set, 10 to 15 minutes.
⅔ cup (147 grams) plus 3 tablespoons Carefully remove foil and weights; brush
(42 grams) firmly packed light brown
sugar, divided
surface of crust with 1 egg white (30
grams). Bake until center is dry, about
2.5 million
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
5 minutes more. Let cool completely in
pan. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F
pounds
OF PECANS PRODUCED
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg (180°C).
¼ teaspoon ground ginger 4. In a large bowl, whisk together ⅔ cup ANNUALLY
1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin (147 grams) brown sugar, cinnamon,
(see Note) salt, nutmeg, and ginger. Add pumpkin,
¾ cup (180 grams) evaporated milk evaporated milk, cream, eggs, and vanilla,
¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping cream
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
whisking until combined. Pour filling into
prepared crust. Using small pieces of foil,
5
temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
making sure not to cover or touch filling,
fold foil over top edges of crust and pan,
varieties
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, and lightly pinch and secure foil to hold OF PECANS
melted crust to springform. (This will prevent
1 cup (100 gram) Schermer Pecan Halves shrinking and excess browning.)
5. Bake until filling slightly wobbles when
pan is gently shaken, about 40 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk
1,800
together remaining 1 egg white (30 grams)
and remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams)
acres
OF FULLY DEVELOPED
brown sugar until foamy, about 1 minute.
Whisk in melted butter. Add pecans, and PECAN ORCHARDS
toss to coat.
7. Arrange pecans on surface of pie, leaving
any excess liquid in bowl.
8. Bake until pecans are browned, edges of
filling are set but center slightly wobbles
60
when pan is gently shaken, and an instant-
read thermometer inserted in center of pie
acres
registers 180°F (82°C), 10 to 15 minutes. OF PECAN NURSERIES
Carefully remove foil pieces, and let pie WITH GROWING TREES
cool completely in pan on a wire rack.
9. Carefully remove sides of pan, and
transfer pie to a serving plate. Refrigerate
until cold and firm, at least 2 hours.
Refrigerate in an airtight container for 2,000
up to 3 days.
acres
Note: Do not use pumpkin pie filling, as it OF TIMBERLAND UNDER
has added sweeteners. PECAN DEVELOPMENT

september | october 2023 102

origin of a classic

IT’S EASY TO SEE HOW THE UK’S FAMOUS

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING CAPTIVATES,
WITH ITS SUGARY DATES AND LUSCIOUS
LURE OF BUTTERY CARAMEL. ITS ORIGINS,
BY AMBER WILSON HOWEVER, ARE A LITTLE CONTENTIOUS.
T
here is very little that compares with the glory that is sticky most famous versions of the recipe. Not many places understand
toffee pudding. In the UK, in addition to meaning a cooked sticky toffee pudding better than Cartmel, but Ullswater
custard, “pudding” is used informally to mean a sweet dish offers unique insight into Cumbria’s sweet past.
that’s traditionally boiled or steamed, and it can also mean simply,
“dessert.” Sticky toffee pudding is an unapologetically sweet, Ullswater, one of Cumbria’s most stunning lakes, is a fitting setting
rich cake that gets its inherent depth of flavor from intensely to start a love affair with pudding. The Sharrow Bay Country
dark dates, treacly brown sugar, and golden syrup, giving it rich, House, located on the eastern shore of Ullswater in Penrith,
decadent intensity. A wonderful undertow of ginger, cloves, Cumbria, is one of the UK’s first country house hotels. There
and vanilla complements the rest of the ingredients beautifully. are claims that Francis Coulson and Robert Lee introduced the
Last but not least is the drizzly, caramelly sauce that soaks the original recipe on the hotel’s menu in the early 1970s. The story
still-warm pudding, a.k.a cake, after coming out of the oven. The goes as far as the original recipe rumored to be held in the hotel’s
pudding is often served alongside whipped cream or vanilla ice vaults, with the staff having to sign an agreement to protect the
cream to complement the molasses-like sauce. The result is, as pudding’s secret.
the name promises, unfathomably sticky. And utterly addictive.
The Cumbrian port town of Whitehaven can give us much-needed
Sticky toffee pudding is a cozy, comforting dessert, one of those support for Cumbria’s sticky toffee pudding proclamations.
beloved recipes everyone would like to claim as their own. The Whitehaven is a port on the Irish Sea on the west coast of
English say it was invented the mid-20th century in the Lake Cumbria, and its harbor was once England’s third largest in the
District or perhaps a few decades earlier in Yorkshire. On the 18th century. During the 17th and 18th centuries, warehouses
other hand, the Scottish argue that a hotel in Aberdeenshire were built along the docks, and such an immense amount
served it long before anyone else. And some believe Canada of sugar—as well as coffee, rum, and dates—came into the
claims the origins, as a Canadian air force personnel had a
handwritten recipe passed along to a hotel manager in nearby
Lancashire, England. In Australia and New Zealand, this glorious
dessert is called sticky date pudding. The important thing is that
everyone feels validated in treasuring it.

Let’s plunge headlong into the mysterious and widely disputed

origin of this cherished dessert, as many claims and contradictions
exist in England and abroad. In the Lake District, the tiny yet
charming historic village in Cumbria called Cartmel claims to
be home to the sticky toffee pudding, as it is one of England’s

september | october 2023 104

harbors that one of the docks still bears the name Sugar There are places with similar declarations of the true origin
Tongue. It seems more than coincidence that the two most of sticky toffee pudding. One place in particular is the Udny
characteristic ingredients of sticky toffee pudding—sugar and Arms Hotel in Newburgh, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, which
dates—once flowed freely and abundantly into Cumbria. is said to have first served the dessert in 1967. Another claim
is the Gait Inn in Millington, Yorkshire, a small village in East
If the backstory is genuine, there is an immediate Yorkshire. As the legend goes, as far back as 1907, the former
counterclaim. Canada maintains a stake in this creation landlady added sticky toffee pudding to the menu. The cake’s
myth, a dispute given weight by accounts of the Sharrow Bay convoluted history proves this dessert is adored by many who
Country House’s co-owner and Francis Coulson’s partner have fought for it to have a steadfast place in their culture and
Brian Sack from his time in the Royal Air Force during World identity.
War II. The idea for the pudding’s toffee sauce was supposedly
inspired when he met two Canadian pilots using maple syrup. I know from experience how much brighter a chilly autumn day
Another claim takes this storyline further, speculating that can be when a slice of something gooey and doused with toffee
the Canadian air force personnel had handwritten the original sauce is on a plate in front of you. The sweetness and richness
recipe and passed it on to a hotel manager while lodging in may seem excessive, but like Oscar Wilde said, “Nothing
nearby Lancashire. exceeds like excess.”

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING medium speed until combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Add eggs,
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt,
cloves, and ginger. With mixer on low speed, add half of flour
This cake is decadent and intricately sweet from chewy mixture, beating until just combined.
dates and molasses-rich brown sugar. A more-than-generous 5. Stir baking soda into warm date mixture, and immediately
drizzle of sauce is the final flourish for this gloriously indulgent add to sugar mixture; beat at low speed until combined. Beat
dessert. in remaining flour mixture, stopping to scrape bottom and
sides of bowl. Spoon batter into prepared pan, smoothing with
1¼ cups (250 grams) pitted dates, coarsely chopped an offset spatula.
¾ cup (180 grams) water 6. Bake until pudding springs back when lightly touched in
1¼ cups (275 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar center and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out with
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened a few moist crumbs, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool in pan for
3 tablespoons (63 grams) golden syrup (see Note) 10 minutes. Using excess parchment as handles, remove
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature from pan, and let cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. Serve
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract warm with Toffee Sauce.
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder Note: Golden syrup is an essential ingredient in many British
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt desserts. It’s thick and amber-colored, with a uniquely buttery,
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves caramel-like flavor. Although it’s likely not stocked in your local
¼ teaspoon ground ginger grocery store, it’s easy to find online.
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
Toffee Sauce (recipe follows) TOFFEE SAUCE
Makes 1⅔ cups
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a 9-inch square
baking pan with baking spray with flour. Line pan with ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter
parchment paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
2. In a medium saucepan, bring dates and ¾ cup (180 grams) ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
water to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until dates are
softened and most of water is absorbed, about 5 minutes. 1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.
Using an immersion blender, purée mixture until smooth. Whisk in brown sugar and salt. Add cream; increase heat to
(Alternatively, transfer mixture to the work bowl of a food medium-high, and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.
processor, and pulse until smooth.) Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture begins to thicken and
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle an instant-read thermometer registers 220°F (104°C) to
attachment, beat brown sugar, butter, and golden syrup at 230°F (110°C). Let cool slightly. Serve warm.

september | october 2023 106

small batch

A LITTLE
SOMETHING
SWEET

WHEN YOU’RE CRAVING A PILLOW-SOFT SWEET ROLL FILLED

WITH COZY FALL FLAVORS BUT CAN’T BE BOTHERED TO
MAKE A WHOLE BATCH, THIS RECIPE IS FOR YOU
SWEET POTATO-PECAN SWEET ROLL wrap dough pieces around each other, pinching ends together.
Makes 1 (6-inch) roll Starting with end that is not cut, twist dough until it forms a circle,
and tuck pinched ends under. Place, cut side up, in prepared pan.
Everyone needs a go-to sweet roll recipe, and this easy-to-bake treat Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
is ready to eat in no time. Golden brown and packed with warm, rich puffed, about 20 minutes.
spices, this decadent roll is perfect eaten alone or shared with a friend! 7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
8. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting inserted in center registers 190°F (88°C), 35 to 40 minutes,
5 tablespoons (70 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar, divided covering with foil during final 10 minutes of baking to prevent
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt excess browning. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) instant yeast Spread Buttermilk Glaze onto warm roll, and sprinkle with
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg remaining pecans. Serve immediately.
⅓ cup (80 grams) whole buttermilk
⅓ cup (80 grams) mashed baked sweet potato (see Note) Note: Bake a medium foil-wrapped sweet potato in a 400°F (200°C)
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter, softened and divided oven until fork-tender, about 45 minutes. Halve lengthwise, and let cool
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon cut side up. Peel and mash flesh with a fork before measuring.
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger
⅓ cup (37 grams) chopped toasted pecans, divided BUTTERMILK GLAZE
Buttermilk Glaze (recipe follows) Makes ¼ cup

1. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, 2 tablespoons (28 grams) ⅔ cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar
brown sugar, salt, yeast, and nutmeg until combined. Make a well 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) whole buttermilk
in center. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2. In a small saucepan, combine buttermilk, sweet potato, and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter; cook over medium heat,
stirring frequently, until butter is melted and an instant-read 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients until smooth.
thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Pour Use immediately.
warm buttermilk mixture into well in flour mixture; using a wooden
spoon, stir until combined. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured
surface, and knead until smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, 8 to
10 minutes, lightly flouring work surface and hands as needed.
3. Spray a medium bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, about 40 minutes.
4. Spray a 6-inch round cake pan with cooking spray.
5. In a small bowl, stir together cinnamon, ginger, and
remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams) brown sugar.
6. Punch down dough, and let stand for 5 minutes.
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and
roll into a 14x8-inch rectangle. Spread remaining
2 tablespoons (28 grams) butter onto dough,
leaving a ½-inch border on one long side. Sprinkle
cinnamon mixture onto butter. (Layer will be
thick.) Sprinkle ¼ cup (28 grams) pecans on
top. Starting at long side opposite border, roll up
dough into a log, pinching seam to seal. Gently
shape and roll log to 15 inches and an even
thickness. Place log so seam is off to one side.
Using floured kitchen scissors or a serrated knife,
cut log in half lengthwise, leaving 1 inch intact
at one end. Turn halves cut side up, and carefully

september | october 2023 108

 Pumpkin Doughnut Holes
page 111

FRAGRANT
FALL BAKES
JESSIE SHEEHAN TURNS TYPICALLY TIME-
CONSUMING BREADS INTO EASY BAKES THAT
ARE FULL OF FLAVOR WITHOUT THE FUSS
BY JESSIE SHEEHAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

Quick Apple
Cinnamon Buns
page 113

september | october 2023 110

 PUMPKIN DOUGHNUT HOLES Topping: gently pressed, 14 to 16 minutes, rotating
Makes about 40 doughnut holes 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar pan halfway through baking. Let cool in pan
2¾ teaspoons (5.5 grams) ground on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove from
These easy-peasy doughnut holes are pure cinnamon pan, and let cool on a wire rack until slightly
magic and as perfect for a cozy fall breakfast ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter warm. Repeat with remaining batter.
as they are served at a dinner party as a 4. For topping: In a shallow bowl, whisk
retro dessert of sorts. A simple muffin-like 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a together granulated sugar and cinnamon.
batter is flavored with pumpkin purée and 24-cup mini muffin pan with cooking spray. 5. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
warming spices and baked up in a mini muffin 2. For batter: In a large bowl, whisk together butter on high just until melted.
pan. Once out of the oven, each little muffin brown sugar, melted butter, and vanilla until 6. Dip each muffin in butter to lightly coat,
is dunked in melted butter and rolled in smooth and well combined. Add eggs, one letting excess drip off. Dredge in sugar
cinnamon sugar, transforming these cuties at a time, whisking until combined after mixture to fully coat. Store in an airtight
into little “fried” doughnut holes. If you don’t each addition; whisk in pumpkin. Whisk in container for up to 3 days.
have a mini muffin pan, you can use a regular- baking powder until combined. Add baking
size muffin pan; just fill each cup about two- soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger,
thirds full and bake a few minutes longer. one at a time, whisking until combined
after each addition. Using a rubber
Batter: spatula, gently stir in flour until
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light well combined. Spoon about
brown sugar 1 tablespoon batter into each
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, prepared muffin cup. (Keep
melted and cooled remaining batter covered at
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract room temperature.)
2 large eggs (100 grams) 3. Bake until tops look
1 cup (244 grams) canned pumpkin dry and spring back when
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking powder
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour

111 bake from scratch

 !
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 QUICK APPLE CINNAMON 1½ cups (360 grams) cold heavy whipping 3. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured
BUNS cream surface, and knead just until dough comes
Makes 8 buns ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, room together. Using a floured rolling pin, roll
temperature dough into a 12x9-inch rectangle. Spread
Easy cinnamon buns that are assembled, ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light butter onto dough.
baked, and ready to eat in about an hour brown sugar 4. In a small bowl, whisk together brown
sound too good to be true, I know. But trust 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground cinnamon sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle onto butter.
me: these buns—made from a cream biscuit 1½ cups (150 grams) finely chopped Sprinkle apple onto sugar mixture, gently
dough—could not be speedier to throw peeled Granny Smith apple pressing into dough. Starting at one long
together or more tender and delicious to eat 1 large egg (50 grams) side, roll up dough into a log, pinching seam
despite the lack of yeast for lift and butter 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar, to seal. Trim ends of log with a serrated knife,
for flavor. And when you add chunks of sifted if desired. Cut log into 8 (1½-inch-thick)
juicy apple into the mix, along with copious 2 tablespoons (30 grams) apple cider or slices; place, cut side up, in prepared pan.
amounts of toasty cinnamon and an apple apple juice 5. In another small bowl, whisk together
cider glaze to boot, you’ll be hard-pressed to egg and remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt; brush
find an autumnal breakfast treat as tasty, 1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Spray a onto dough.
fast, and simple as these. 9-inch round cake pan with cooking spray. 6. Bake until golden brown and a wooden
Line bottom of pan with parchment paper. pick inserted between rolls comes out
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan on
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated granulated sugar, baking powder, and a wire rack for 10 minutes.
sugar 1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt. Add cold 7. In another small bowl, whisk together
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder cream; stir with a rubber spatula until dry confectioners’ sugar and cider or juice until
1⅛ teaspoons (3 grams) kosher salt, ingredients are moistened. smooth; drizzle onto rolls. Serve warm.
divided Store in an airtight container for up to
3 days.

113 bake from scratch

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