Seaskin Divewear

User Manual
www.seaskin.co.uk

Issue 8 14/08/20

Aqualand Ltd
Unit 4X, Hill Top Commercial Centre,
Houghley Lane, Leeds, West Yorkshire,
LS13 2DN, United Kingdom.
Tel: 0113 2361776, Fax: 0113 2553777.
[email protected]
www.aqualandlimited.com
Instruction Repair and Maintenance Manual

1. Safety
2. Sizing of Suits
3. Instructions for use
4. Care of Dry Suits
5. Care and use of Undersuits and thermal under garments
6. Care of neoprene products
7. Leak testing of suits
8. Drysuit repair
9. Tools materials and spares list
10. Seaskin (Aqualand Ltd) Service Department
11. Handling Glues and solvents
12. Warrantee
1. Safety

Follow all instructions and heed these safety precautions. Improper use or misuse of
a drysuit could result in serious injury or death.

Diving

This manual is NOT a substitute for drysuit instruction by a qualified instructor. DO

NOT USE a drysuit until you have practised and mastered practical drysuit diving
skills, including emergency skills, in a controlled environment under the supervision
of a dive instructor, certified by a nationally recognised instructional organisation and
knowledgeable in the use of drysuits. Observe the maximum depth limits according
to the level of your training. Aqualand Ltd’s drysuits have been used to 270mts.

Improper use or misuse of a drysuit could result in loss of buoyancy control,

including uncontrolled descents and uncontrolled rapid ascents, resulting in
drowning, decompression sickness, or air embolism.

Improper use or misuse of a drysuit could result in exposure to thermal hazards,

including rapid body overheating or cooling, resulting in stroke or seizure.

Do not use a drysuit as a lift bag. If you use a drysuit as a lift bag and lose your grip
on the object, you may become excessively buoyant. This may result in a rapid
ascent.

Rapid ascent is dangerous and may cause air embolism or decompression sickness,
either of which can result in serious injury or death.

Diving in an environment which is chemically, biologically, or radiological

contaminated is extremely hazardous. Although some equipment can be adapted for
use in some contaminated environments, special training, equipment and
procedures are required. Do not dive in a contaminated environment unless you
have been thoroughly trained and specially equipped.

Ice diving (diving in water 40°F (4.4°C) or less) is extremely hazardous. Do not
engage in ice diving unless you have been thoroughly trained and specially
equipped.

2. Sizing of Suits

To check the size of the drysuit or undersuit, put on the drysuit over your thermal
ware and complete the following fit evaluation:

Feet should not feel cramped, or that the boot might slide of your foot.

Ease of breathing: There should be no restriction when taking a deep breath.

Overhead reach: Reach up with both hands, as if you were trying to reach the valve
on your tank.

Cross your arms reach: Reach across the chest with both arms (like you were
hugging yourself.) You must be able to reach and operate the exhaust valve on the
left shoulder.

Crouch and reach: Kneel down, sit back over your heals and lean forward. This
position checks the leg length and torso length at the same time. The drysuit should
not be restrictive or binding.

Latex neck and some wrist seals are capable of being trimmed to make them
bigger.to provide a comfortable watertight seal. Latex neck and cone wrist seals are
tapered and have a series of trim lines (small raised lines running around the outside
surface of the seal.) The trim lines start at the seal opening and each line gets
progressively bigger. These lines can be used as a guide when trimming the seals to
keep the line even. A good pair of scissors is needed to make smooth cuts and not
leave nicks in the seal that could course it to split. It is best not to trim the seals
unless absolutely necessary.

3. Instructions for use

Donning a Drysuit
Drysuits are available in many different fabrics and zip positions but the procedure
for putting them on is similar.
Remove any jewelry or watches that may snag on the seals.
Select the correct under clothing for the temperature conditions including
socks/booties. Make sure any foot straps and thumb loops are used.
Check the drysuit for any signs of damage, perished latex seals, broken zip, rips or
holes in fabric etc and that if valves are fitted that they fully tightened.
Hold the drysuit at its waist making sure that the braces if fitted are falling out side
the legs. Pull on the bottom half of the suit like a normal pair of trousers up to the
waist. If the suit is fitted with Latex or fabric socks, take care to avoid puncturing the
soles by stepping on sharp objects or rough surfaces Pick up braces and loop over
shoulders trying not to twist them so they lie flat against the body, adjust their length
so the suit is pulled up comfortably to the crutch.
If boots are not fitted put on suitable footwear taking care not to damage socks.
Insert the right arm into the arm of the suit, point the fingers and use the other hand
to help pass through the wrist seal gently as possible. The use of un-perfumed
talcum powder (French chalk), soapy water or a water based lubricant ease the
hands and head through both latex and neoprene seals, do not use any silicon
based lubricants as this may make the suit un-repairable in the future. Make sure
that the seal is seated flat and without folds against the skin, withdraw undersuit
thumb loop in side suit and check no underwear is trapped. Repeat for the left arm.
The neck seal opening should be opened gently using the fingers of both hands and
then the head pushed through use lubricant if necessary. Adjust the neck seal so it
sits against the skin untwisted and without folds. Neoprene necks are turned in to
create the seal, make sure there is at least 60mm inverted.
Great care should be taken when closing the zip; with across the shoulder designs
the zip should be closed by another person. Do not use excessive force, it is very
important that the under clothing is not caught in the zip as this will permanently
damage it. Ensure that the slider is pulled straight along the chain. Do not force the
slider forward over a point of resistance. Always double check that the zip or zips
are fully closed before entering the water. Front and cross body zipped suits can be
closed by the wearer. If a zip cover is provided this should be fixed into position.
To remove air from the suit, insert fingers down the front of the neck seal and squat
down keeping the arms in, air will rush out passed the seal, when air movement has
stopped release the seal and then stand up. Remember to connect the low pressure
hose from a regulated gas supply to the inflator valve.
Put on gloves or hood if required.
The suit should now prevent water ingress.

Doffing a Drysuit
Before undoing the zip rinse it with clean water to remove any sand or debris. When
undoing the zip it is important to fully open it before getting out of the suit otherwise
damage can occur.
Reverse the above procedure using fingers to open the seals partially. It is often
useful to have someone help in suit removal especially when fatigued. It is safer to
sit down to remove the lower half of the suit to avoid a fall.

Variable volume drysuit diving procedures

Recommendations
We recommend an approved dry suit diving course to start gaining knowledge.
Start all dry suit exercise in shallow waters until you are confident in using the
equipment.
Accept training from experienced divers, ideally only from those who have obtained
recognized diving qualifications.
Make sure your equipment works as expected, otherwise abort your training.
Proper weighting is extremely important.
Knowledge and understanding of basic diving physiology is essential for optimal
performance.
The techniques for the control of buoyancy vary between training agencies.
Suit valves are designed to provide buoyancy control on there own or in conjunction
with a BCD or “wing”. Practice what you have been taught in a controlled water
environment.

Guidance for the use of variable volume valves

1. Make sure to check the valve attachment before diving.
2. Determine your insulation according to water temperature and adjust weighing
accordingly.
3. Start fully equipped, enter into water not deeper than standing depth, for suit fitted
with the automatic dump valves have the valve fully open, the lid turned counter
clockwise to minimum internal pressure (-). Add weights until neutral, with the very
top of the head just in the surface in an upright position. The valve should be at the
highest position possible in the water (in comparison to the rest of the suit.)
4. Estimate the weight loss of the air consumed during your dive, compensate this
plus a little extra lead weight (not more than 2 kg) in order to enable decompression
stop, and/or to slow down the ascent speed.
5. Inflate the suit and adjust the dump valve clock wise in order to re-establish the
neutral buoyancy.
6. To initiate a feet down descent, press the valve lid to reduce gas volume. During
the descent, compensate for suit squeeze and buoyancy loss by inflating the suit.
Settle yourself comfortably on the bottom in an upright position. Wind open the dump
valve cap completely, blow air into the suit until it vents from the valve, close the cap
one or two clicks at a time and press the inflator again. Repeat until sufficient
buoyancy can be achieved to maintain a controlled rate of ascent without any
assistance. As you ascend expanding air within the suit will be automatically vented.
You may stop or slow down your ascent at any time by operating the manual push
dump system.
7. In progressively deeper water practice buoyancy control by rolling, looping and
hovering. Remember to exhale if ascending.
8. To recover from a feet first ascent, bend knees and body to obtain minimum
length and rotate with the help of hands and strong fin kicks. In the upright position,
stretch to allow gas to reach the exhaust valve for venting.
9. Ascending is controlled by the dump valve, if it is properly tuned and at the highest
position. While diving, minor adjustments must be made by carefully setting the valve
(weight lost due to air consumed). Adjusting the internal volume can also be made
by pressing the lid or by raising the arm with the valve (for slower ascent speed) or
lowering the arm (for faster ascent speed). Follow micro bubbles while ascending.
Always ascend head up!

When using Cuff dump valves, venting of the air is done simply by raising the arm
and allowing the air to rise venting through the cuff dump valve. This type of valve is
simpler than the auto dump valve, but does not offer the same control of buoyancy.

Warnings
1. Unexpected buoyancy and ascent speed can be the result if any inflatable devise
attached to the diver is inflated during diving.
2. Uncontrolled ascent speed can also be caused by slow permeable underwear.
Breathable fabric does not always allow enough gas to reach the exhaust valve for
control of ascent speed. Make sure that any clothing worn under a drysuit cannot
interfere with the venting of air through the dump valve.
3. Avoid gas inflation into the suit when the feet are in a high position.
4. Make sure that the neck seal is the correct size for comfort. If it is too tight there is
a risk for poor gas exchange in the blood vessels in the head. If it is too loose, the
suit gas will not be retained in the suit.
5. Avoid jumping upright into the water. A ‘bottom first’ or "giant step" entry will
reduce the risk of creating too high pressure at the neck seal.

4. Care of Drysuits

After use follow these maintenance procedures to ensure the optimum performance
and extend the useful life of the drysuit.
Having finished wearing the suit for the day, rinse the outside thoroughly with fresh
clean water to remove any dirt, sand or salt. Any stubborn stains can be removed by
rubbing the area gently with soapy water. If the zip is particularly dirty with sand or
dirt after diving it can be cleaned by using an old toothbrush and fresh water (mild
soapy water can be used for heavy soiling).
After use, always rinse the inlet and outlet valves with cold running fresh water. To
flush the inlet valve, simply connect the valve to an air supply and operate whilst
flushing the push button area with water. This will help prevent sand and debris
entering the valve seals.
Check the drysuit for any signs of damage, perished latex seals, broken zip, rips or
holes in fabric etc and that if valves are fitted that they fully tightened.
Clean the Latex seals using cold fresh water. Latex seals will perish quickly if any
kind of moisturising cream, body oils or oil is applied to them. After use clean the
seals using mild soapy water to remove dirt and body oils.
After you have rinsed out the suit, hang it over a drying rack or line in a shady spot.
Ensure that the inside and outside are thoroughly dry.

When dry Lubricate the zip or zips, any remaining Dirt and Debris must be removed
first. The out side of the zip teeth should be rubbed down with the wax provided with
the suit. The inside zip elements (where the seal is formed) should be lubricated with
the special fluid.
Apply the correct lubricant, open and close the zipper twice, then store the suit with
the zipper open if stored in a bag or closed if hung using an appropriated coat
hanger.

It is important to do this - if not regularly lubricated the zip may seize up and fail.
Latex seals should de dusted with talcum powder. The use of any product containing
silicon on the drysuit could make the repairing and replacement of seals impossible
due to its effects on adhesives.

Consider whether any repairs are required or if a leak is suspected, see repair
section.

Storage of drysuits
Once the drysuit valves are thoroughly clean and dry and the zip lubricated, you
should store your drysuit in a cool dry place away from devices that produce ozone
such as motors and heaters. It is preferable that the suit is stored hung up with the
zip closed. Or packed correctly in the bag supplied with the zip open. When in
storage or transportation do not allow the suit to be crushed by heavy weights.
For long term storage of suits seal inside a polythene bag.

Folding and packing

To fold a dry suit for packing into a bag:
For a back zip suit, lay the suit flat on the floor or large table with the front of the
uppermost, the arms out at right angles and the zip open. Roll the suit up from the
boots/socks up to the neck seal and then fold the arms over. This avoids folding the
zip to sharply.
For front zip suits start with back of the suit upper most and then follow the above.
Slide the suit into the drawstring bag.
Never store or transport a drysuit with a heavy weight on top of this as it may cause
damage to the zip.

To maintain optimal valve performance, we urge you to take good care of and treat
your valve system just like you treat your breathing regulator. An annual check, by a
recognised repair facility, of all your diving gear, including your dry suit valves, is
recommended.

5. Care and use of Undersuits and Thermal Under garments

Use the correct amount of insulation for the water/air temperature being exposed to
and your exercise rate.

Too much insulation can lead to dangerous overheating. Too little insulation can lead
to the effects of hypothermia and death. Always ensure that body extremities are
also well insulated, wear suitable gloves, hood/hat and socks or boots.

All types of undersuit and thermal under garments can in some circumstance restrict
the flow of air thorough the outlet valve. Manual manipulation of the drysuit/outlet
and undersuit area should free any restriction of the airflow. If this does not clear it
follow the emergency procedure below for "outlet valve stuck closed".

EXHAUST VALVE STUCK CLOSED EMERGENCY PROCEDURE

If the exhaust valve is stuck in the closed position or is blocked in some way, air
cannot be properly vented from the drysuit. This may result in an uncontrolled
ascent. If the exhaust valve is stuck in the closed position or blocked, either open the
neck seal or a wrist seal to release air. Practise opening the seals on dry land when
wearing the gloves and hood used during diving. When this emergency procedure is
followed, some water will enter the drysuit. If sufficient air still cannot be vented and
you are experiencing an uncontrolled ascent, flare your body to reduce the speed of
the ascent. Spread your arms and legs away from your body, get your fins parallel to
the surface of the water, and try to slow your ascent by creating drag. Be sure to
continue exhaling as you ascend.
Always be aware of any signs of lung over expansion injuries and decompression
sickness and seek urgent medical attention if necessary.

Care of Undersuits and Thermal Under garments

After each days use hang the garment up to dry. Never hand wring a garment as this
will damage any internal Thinsulate insulation and seriously impair its performance.
If laundering is required follow the washing instructions carefully.
These are normally as follows:

Machine washing should be at a much-reduced cycle; the use of some fabric

conditioners may impair the moister wicking properties of the fabrics. Spin dry and
hang up to dry never wring out the water. Garments that are manufactured with 3M
Thinsulate should not be tumble dried. Do not iron, dry-clean or use chlorine bleach.
6. Care of neoprene Products

Products that are made from sponge neoprene such as hoods and gloves should be
rinsed in clean freshwater after use and then left to dry on a suitable rack. Heavy
soiling can be removed with a mild soap and gentle rubbing, rinse well in clean water
and air dry at room temperature. Hand wash only. Machine washing will damage all
neoprene products.

Neoprene products should be stored in a cool dry place. Keeping them flat will avoid
creases but these do not impair thermal performance. Do not store under heavy
weights.

Small holes or rips can be repaired with "wetsuit glue" available at dive shops, follow
the instructions on the packaging.

7. Leak testing of Drysuits

To test a drysuit for leaks;
Turn the suit inside out. If the suit is fitted with an inflation valve unscrew it and
reverse fit it so it is pointing inside the suit this enables an air supply to be attached.
Close the zip by putting a hand in through the neck seal.
Insert suitably sized cylindrical objects (5cm-8cm in diameter, at least 10cm long)
into the wrist seals and secure them in place with PVC electrical insulation tape.
Into the neck seal insert a cylindrical object (12cm-14cm in diameter, at least 15cm
long) and secure with tape. Suits with no valves are best inflated by fitting a tool
made for the purpose with a connector to match your supply, if a lot of testing of suits
of any type is anticipated then this tool makes the job easier.
Connect to the compressed air supply and carefully begin inflating the suit. The
correct test pressure when testing in air 0.3 psi this can be estimated with out a
gauge in the following ways. On suits with latex neck seal when its diameter expands
to reaches 25cm. Or if it has neoprene seals when the neck seals just start to
expand.
Over inflating a suit can damage it.
When the suit is inflated to the correct pressure use a sponge to cover it with soapy
water, looking carefully for any bubbles being formed. Mark any leaks with a
waterproof pencil.
Keep topping up with compressed air if necessary.
When finished testing remove from compressed air supply, rinse over with fresh
water and allow the suit to deflate.
Take great care when removing the electrical tapes so as not to damage the seals.
Hang suit up to dry before attempting any repair. When refitting the inflation valve
make sure it is refitted sufficiently tightly.

8. Drysuit Repair
Basic repairs on drysuits are relatively easy if the correct materials and tools are
used, if however the work is not carried out correctly then this may cause a failure of
the suit during use. If in doubt about any work that needs to be carried out return the
article to the Aqualand Ltd.
The repairs that can be carried out by users are outlined below, we recommend that
the replacing of dry zips and dry boots only be done by experienced workshops or
they should be returned to the factory.

It is essential when using glues and solvents that the necessary safety precautions
are followed. We recommend that you use Bostik 2402 or Stormaprene, 2-part
neoprene adhesive for repairs, but any neoprene based glue for marine use should
be suitable. Use a toluene based solvent for cleaning and thinning adhesive.
Repairing holes in neoprene drysuits is easier using Aquaseal urethane repair
adhesive and sealant from McNett. Make sure that you request the Safety data
sheets for these products and observe the handling, storage instructions and
warnings.

Mixing glue
Bostik 2402 should be used as a two-part system; the correct ratio is 100:6 by weight
(approx. 100:5 by volume) although we have found that this ratio does not have to be
precise and can be judged by eye. If a thinner mixture is required add 20%
SOLVENT. Stir very well with a mixing stick. If not mixing a full 250ml of glue in its
can, then use mixing cups designed for the purpose or a clean and dry glass jar, do
not mix in plastic cups as the solvents present will melt them.
The pot life of mixed glue (parts A and B) is 6 hours at 20 C.

Amount of glue required to: Repair a small hole 50 ml

Changing a latex wrist seal and tape 75 ml
Changing a latex neck seal and tape 75 ml

Repairing a small puncture using a patch

Locate the hole on the inside of the suit or bag.
Clean around the area with solvent and allow to dry.
Mix up the glue and paint on a coat of 60mm x 60mm square of glue using a brush.
Cut a square of neoprene tape 38mm x 38mm.
Coat the textured side of the tape with glue.
When the first coat of glue is touch dry (10-15mins) apply a second coat to suit and
tape.
When the second coat is touch dry place the patch over the puncture, trying not to
trap air bubbles.
Roll the patch down with a small hand roller using firm pressure.
Dust the area with talc.
The suit can be used in 1 hour with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

If material has been lost from the damaged area or if it is a slit more than 10mm long
then a patch of suit material must also be glued to the out side of the suit to maintain
structural strength. Use an appropriate sized neoprene tape patch on the inside of
the suit.

Repairing a small puncture using Aquaseal

Repairing punctures in neoprene suits is often easier using Aquaseal urethane repair
adhesive and sealant although cure times are longer if Cotol -240 accelerator is not
mixed at 10:1 ratio.
Locate the hole on the inside of the suit.
For a neat repair cut a 20mm hole out of a length of 50mm polypropylene packing
tape.
Stick on the tape strip so the puncture is in the center of the hole.
Keep the area of the repair level.
Apply the Aquaseal so as to fill the hole in the packing tape and over its edge.
Leave to cure for 2 hours if Cotol was used, 10-36 hours if not.
Then peal away the packing tape to leave a 20mm repair circle.
Packing tape does not have to be used, and sealant can be applied directly straight
from the tube.

Changing a latex wrist seal glued to the inside of the suit

You can either remove the old seal entirely, or cut the old seal off at the edge of the
suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit.
If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new
seal over the band of old rubber.
If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat,
or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, and the old seal can be
peeled off carefully. Heat can be applied with a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper on
its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit. Using long nosed
pliers or forceps will make this easier.
Turn the arm of the suit inside out.
Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing the
former to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve,
the former can be forced open further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the
slot.
Turn the seal inside out, the shiny side is the outside of the seal and the duller side
the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin.
Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be
glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go.
Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the
former.
Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new
seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down
and messing up the suit or the seal.
Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the
suit areas to be glued are exposed light rubbing with sand paper will give a better
key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent.
Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct
position.
Mix up the BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene glue as instructed above.
Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene using
a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes.
Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry.
Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and
without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently
work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve.
The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure.
Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former
use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
Check the edges of the seal by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area
comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area.
Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

Changing a latex wrist seal glued to the outside of the suit and taped
You can either remove the old seal and tape entirely, or cut the old seal off at the
edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. It is usually
best to remove the tape from the inside suit that is over the suit and seal joint.
To remove tape start at the glued down end and apply heat by using a hair dryer or
hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the
suit. Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Once the end is loose
work back along the tape trying not to pull so hard as to break it. Be careful not to
burn your fingers or the suit with to much heat.
If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new
seal over the band of old rubber.
If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat,
or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, and the old seal can be
peeled off carefully. Much more care must be taken when working with neoprene
suits as the nylon burs more easily and if too much solvent is used then the nylon will
delaminate from the neoprene center.
Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing the
former to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve,
the former can be forced out further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the
slot.
Make sure that the seal is the right way round. The shiny side is the outside of the
seal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin.
Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be
glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go. If you
are reapplying 25mm tape then position the seal 12.5mm below the glue line.
Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the
former.
Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new
seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down
and messing up the suit or the seal.
Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the
suit areas to be glued are exposed. A light rubbing with sandpaper will give a better
key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent.
Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct
position.
Mix up the BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene glue as instructed above.
Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene using
a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes.
Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry.
Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and
without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently
work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve.
If required the suit/seal edge should be over taped. Cut a piece of 25mm tape to the
correct length, allowing a 20mm overlap. A 30mm band should be coated with glue
centered on the top edge of the seal also coat the cut tape on the textured side.
Allow glue to become touch dry and then re-coat. Wrap the tape around in the
correct position. Apply some glue to the area below the overlap, and stick down
when touch dry.
The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure.
Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former
use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
To tape the seal joint turn the suit inside out and repeat the process for taping above
after wiping the area with solvent.
The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure.
Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully.
Check the edges of the seal and tapes by picking at them with your fingernails. If any
area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area.
Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new
seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down
and messing up the suit or the seal.
Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the
suit areas to be glued are exposed and wipe over with solvent.
Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct
position.
Mix up the BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene glue as instructed above.
Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene
using a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes.
Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry.
Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and
without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently
work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve.
The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure.
Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former
use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
Check the edges of the seal by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area
comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area.
Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
The suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

Changing a latex Neck Seal

Whether the neck seal has been glued on the inside or out side of the suit the
principles the same.
You can either remove the old seal and tape entirely, or cut the old seal off at the
edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. It is usually
best to remove the tape from the inside suit that is over the suit and seal join.
To remove tape start at the glued down end and apply heat with a hair dryer or hot
air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit.
Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Once the end is loose work
back along the tape trying not to pull so hard as to break it. Be careful not to burn
your fingers or the suit with to much heat.
If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new
seal over the band of old rubber.
If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat,
or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, and the old seal can be
peeled off carefully. Much more care must be taken when working with neoprene
suits as the nylon burns more easily and if too much solvent is used then the nylon
will delaminate from the neoprene center.
Inserting a piece of cardboard or wood inside the suit makes gluing easier and
prevents glue getting were it is not wanted, the neck hole of the suit can be held to
the board by double sided tape. If a neoprene hood is attached then this should be
turned inside out or a board with a hole cut in it used.
Make sure that the seal is the right way round. The shiny side is the outside of the
seal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin.
Position the new seal on to the neck seal former using double sided tape to keep it in
position make sure that the edge of the is pulled out to the edge of the ring. A light
rubbing with sandpaper will give a better key for the glue, then wipe down with
solvent.
Practice positioning the new seal on its ring onto the suit draw round the ring to give
a guide to glue to, add 12.5mm all around if 25mm tape is to be added around after.
Mix up the BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene glue as instructed above.
Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with BOSTIK 2402 or Stormaprene using
a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes.
Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry.
Lower the former ring with attached seal down into the correct position, press down
hard to get the glue coats to bond, peel the ring away carefully
Use the roller to gently work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal sits
flat on to the suit.
If required the suit/seal edge should be over taped. Cut a piece of 25mm tape to the
correct length, allowing a 20mm overlap. A 30mm band should be coated with glue
centered on the top edge of the seal also coat the cut tape on the textured side.
Allow glue to become touch dry and then re-coat. Wrap the tape around in the
correct position. Apply some glue to the area below the overlap, and stick down
when touch dry.
The seal should remain on the board for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure.
Once the glue is dry, remove the board carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former
use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
To tape the seal joint turn the suit inside out and repeat the process for taping above
after wiping the area with solvent.
Check the edges of the seal and tapes by picking at them with your fingernails. If any
area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area.
Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

Fitting valve patches

The fist job is to get the position for the new valve by putting the drysuit and any
BCD or harness on so as to avoid interference. Inflators are normally mounted in the
centre or offset to one side to avoid the middle seam. Automatic dump valves are
normally placed on the upper left arms slightly forward facing for easy manual
operation and adjustment. The suit should be clean and dry before any work is
carried out. Use the patch as a template and draw round it with chalk.

A coat of Bostik 2402 or Stormaprene glue mixed according to the instructions is

applied by brush to the suit and left to dry. Apeks patches (AP0166) should be
rubbed down with sand paper first and a coat applied and left to dry. Three coats on
the suit and two coats on the patch. The final coats should be left until they are tacky
but not stringing away when touched. Press the patch into position (be accurate
repositioning is not possible) as hard as you can, leave to dry with a weight on top
for at least 2 hours, ideally leave the suit to cure for 24 hours before cutting the hole
out with a sharp knife.

SITECH valve patches (#60852) are mounted internally and the hole is cut before
gluing takes place. These valves require a PU based glue such as Bostik 3206. Cut
a hole 34mm in the suit (neoprene drysuits over 5mm thick should use an externally
fitted patch) coat the INSIDE of the suit (the cut hole sides on neoprene suits), the
upper surface and lips of the patch, three coats each letting them dry between coats.
When the glue is dry insert the patch through the hole, then a hair drier set to hot can
be used to heat the glue layers. When hot (careful not the scorch the fabric of the
suit) they can be pressed together and left to cool with a weight on top.

The valves can be screwed into place, on neoprene suits for the first couple of
months they need to be retightened as the neoprene compresses down. It is good
practice to check the tightness of valves as part of the routine maintenance of your
diving equipment.

9. Tools, Materials and Spares List

Drysuit pressure testing kit (Shreader valve) - Neck seal bung with inflation valve and
two wrist seal bungs suitable for dive centers and schools.
Drysuit pressure testing kit (valve with CEJN male coupling) - Neck seal bung with
inflation valve and two wrist seal bungs.
Drysuit pressure testing kit (valve Seatec male coupling) - Neck seal bung with
inflation valve and two wrist seal bungs.
Wrist seal fitting former
Plywood ring for latex neck seal fitting
Hand roller (rubber)
Brushes for glue 12mm

Mixing Cups 250ml

Masking tape 25mm
PVC insulation tape 25mm x 25mt
Packing tape 50mm x 50 mt
Double sided tape 25mm x 25mt
Chalk for marking
Sand paper

Wax blocks
Talc bottles

Glue Bostik 2402 parts A and B 250ml

Stormaprene
Glue Bostik 3206
Aquaseal 226.8g
Cotol -240 accelerator

Neoprene tape 38mm x 50 mt

Neoprene tape 25mm x 50 Mts.
Drysuit repair Fabric (various)

Neck seal latex size Medium/Large

Neck seal latex size Small
Neck seal latex size Extra Small

Heavy Duty Neck seal latex size Medium/Large

Heavy Duty Neck seal latex size Small
Heavy Duty Neck seal latex size Extra Small

Wrist seals latex bottle shape size XL, pair

Wrist seals latex bottle shape size L, pair
Wrist seals latex bottle shape size M, pair
Wrist seals latex bottle shape size S, pair
Wrist seals latex bottle shape size XS, pair

Heavy Duty Wrist seals latex bottle shape size XL, pair
Heavy Duty Wrist seals latex bottle shape size L, pair
Heavy Duty Wrist seals latex bottle shape size M, pair
Heavy Duty Wrist seals latex bottle shape size S, pair
Heavy Duty Wrist seals latex bottle shape size XS, pair

Wrist seals latex cone shape size standard, pair

Wrist seals latex cone shape size extra small, pair
Wrist seals latex bottle shape Beaded for cuff rings size standard, pair
Wrist seals latex bottle shape Beaded for cuff rings size extra small, pair

Boots drysuit Neoprene sizes 4-11(UK)

Boots drysuit TDX sizes 4-12 (UK)
Socks latex (pair) sizes S,M,L,XL

Dry zips BDM - contact for details

10. Seaskin (Aqualand Ltd) Service Department
Seaskin (Aqualand Limited) service/warranty department can perform testing and
repairs on neoprene and membrane drysuits and bags from most manufacturers.
Contact [email protected] for details or call 0113 2361776. Also we can run
drysuit service/repair courses if required.

11. Handling Glues and solvents

ALWAYS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE, HANDLING AND STORAGE OF
ALL GLUES AND SOLVENTS. BE AWARE OF THE POTENTIALS HAZARDS.
14. Warranty

Seaskin drysuits and undersuits are produced by AQUALAND LTD.

AQUALAND LIMITED warrants that your AQUALAND LIMITED drysuit (except for
neck seals, wrist seals, zipper and valves) will be free from defects in materials and
workmanship for a period of two years from the date of original retail purchase.
AQUALAND LIMITED warrants that the zipper, the exhaust valve, and the inlet valve
will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one year from
the date of original retail purchase.
AQUALAND LIMITED warrants that latex seals and socks will be free from defects in
material and workmanship for a period of ninety (90) days from the date of original
retail purchase, any use of silicon products will invalidate the warranty.
Any product determined by AQUALAND LIMITED to be defective in materials or
workmanship in accordance with the above warranties will be repaired or replaced at
the option of AQUALAND LIMITED, free of charge, when received at the factory,
together with proof of purchase.
This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties. Any implied warranties of
merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose are limited to the same duration as
this express warranty.
This warranty does not cover any damage resulting from misuse, abuse, neglect,
alteration, failure to perform maintenance as instructed, damage caused by
contaminants, or unauthorised repair or service.
This warranty does not cover costs incurred for normal repair, inspection and
preventive maintenance.
This warranty is a consumer warranty extended only to the original retail Purchaser.
Your statutory rights are unaffected.

Aqualand Limited Warranty (Part of Conditions of Sale)

“the Seller” means Aqualand Ltd.

8.1 The Seller warrants (subject to the limitations set out in Conditions 8.2

and 9 below) that if Goods of the Seller's own manufacture (but

excluding constituent parts of the Seller's suppliers or sub-contractors)

or provided by the Seller prove under normal conditions not to be free

from defects in workmanship and if the conditions set out below are

each satisfied the Seller shall (at its election) repair or replace free of

charge any Goods (or the relevant constituent parts not being

expendable items) which the Seller shall find upon examination (for

which the Buyer will provide full facilities) to have been so defective.
 The said conditions (each of which must be fulfilled before any

warranty claim shall arise) are:

8.1.1 that the claim is not attributable to fair wear and tear or any fault or

damage arising from impact, modification, inappropriate use or

treatment, incorrect handling or exposure to corrosive substances or

substances otherwise injurious to the Goods or their constituent

materials;

8.1.2 that the claim is made by the Buyer as the Seller's original customer

for the Buyer's own benefit;

8.1.3 that the claim is notified (in detail) in writing to the Seller within 30

days of the date of discovery thereof and in any event within 12

months of delivery;

8.1.4 that the Seller's recommendations for installation, maintenance,

storage use and follow-up in respect of its Goods have been complied

with.

8.2 Except where the Seller specifically otherwise agrees in Writing, the Seller

offers no (and shall have no liability under any) warranty or condition

(express or implied) in respect of goods, materials or services of its suppliers

or sub-contractors but the Seller will if requested by the Buyer (and if the

Seller considers it appropriate and practical to do so) assist the Buyer to

obtain the benefit of such warranties as are available from them in favour of

first users or goods or services.