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final_9781624140501
Life...and Dinner
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REVOLUTIONARY PIZZA
DIMITRI SYRKIN-NIKOLAU
FOUNDER OF DIMO’S PIZZA, HOME OF CHICAGO’S MOST DISTINCTIVE PIES
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THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVE SLAVED
AWAY IN A KITCHEN PREPARING FOOD, SELFLESSLY AND
WITHOUT PRAISE, SO THAT OTHERS MAY ENJOY IT.
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
INTRODUCTION
2. PIZZATIZERS
3. DECONSTRUCTED DINER
4. COMFORT CRAVINGS
6. CHICACO STAPLES
7. COMIDA CALIENTE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEX
FOREWORD
I have never won a Pulitzer, nor the National Book Award, not even
the booby prize for “Best Book About Pro Wrestling and Pot.” But it
no longer matters because I have been humbled with the greatest
literary accolade of them all—Dimo’s Pizza named a pizza after me
in honor of one of my books. In the hierarchy of great literary
huzzahs, there ain’t nothin’ better. The problem, of course, is that I
now have little left to live for.
I am from New York and know a few things about pizza. And
beginning with my first primitive salvos as a teenaged miscreant, I
have personally innovated over 14,000 variations of the toaster
oven pizza bagel. But I cannot touch the ingenuity and painterly
imagination of Dimitri, the colossal superbrain behind this book and
Dimo’s Pizza. He is like the Jasper Johns of pizza chefs. Or, if you
prefer, the Willy Wonka.
Dimitri’s vision of pizza knows no limits: from his sweet pies (Celia’s
Sweet Peach Cobbler!) to any of his deconstructed dinner pies,
because pizza really is a blank canvas upon which to write our
dreams in mashed potatoes and gravy.
Did I mention they named a pizza after me? The greatest day of my
life! Not even if the Carnegie Deli suddenly got hip and started
offering a sandwich of sardines and red onions on pumpernickel rye
as “The Edison” could I possibly be prouder. That the last guy who
had a pizza named for him was former WWE Champion CM Punk
made it that much sweeter. He sold attitude. The guys who had
sammies named after them at the Carnegie sold neuroses.
Pizza is the food of the people and Dimitri is their Spartacus. Pizza
knows no class or race or social status. It is enjoyed by all the
citizens of the earth, from presidents and kings to lowly stoners,
metalheads, hip-hoppers, punk rockers, Michelin-starred
restaurateurs, rule-breaking professional wrestlers and perennially
award-winning authors. But who needs literary kudos from a bunch
of eggheads when you can have a pizza with your name on it?
In the end, the Mike Edison Dirty Pie evolved from a simple sausage
fest to an orgy of Roman proportions, if the Romans had lived in
New Orleans. It was a fully realized gumbo pizza with okra, shrimp
and andouille sausage, and I am not kidding when I say that seeing
my name attached to such genius and putting the thing in my mouth
was the greatest thrill of my life—what I imagine being the first
man on the moon must have been like.
Screw the Pulitzer. Gimme gimme some pizza! God bless Dimo’s!
Gabba gabba hey!
Mike Edison
New York City
We wouldn’t feel right making this book and not sharing a little bit
about our business philosophy with you though in truth, that’s
probably another book in and of itself. If this is your first time
meeting us, (nice to meet you!) we’re a pizza-by-the-slice restaurant
from the Windy City with offbeat and unconventional flavors. We’re
sure you’ve probably already surmised that much from the title of
the book, but you may not have known that we’re also in the field
of building unconventional or nontraditional business practices.
Who exactly is the “we” that we’re talking about? Well obviously
there isn’t a collective group of Dimo’s employees sharing a
keyboard to write this book. But much like the social nature of
pizza, our company functions in many ways through collaboration.
In each of our employees, we scout out brainstormers and adventure
seekers with a passion for learning and a desire to take a stake in
our business.
In fact, many of the recipes in this book can be accredited to our
employees in one way or another. They’ve done everything from
generating new ideas and testing pizzas, to selling, promoting and
gathering feedback from our crustomers. That’s because we believe
a job at Dimo’s should provide more than just a place to clock in
and out; it’s a place to develop skills and pursue passions. And
truthfully, pizza can only be as relevant, innovative and radical as
the people who help create it.
Crafting new pizza concepts is a job that will never tire us. There
will always be a new idea to develop, an old recipe to make better
and a new person to work with. That’s where you come in. When
we were offered the opportunity to make a cookbook, we knew it
had to be more than just slapping some of our favorite recipes
together. This was our chance to share our approach and pizza
philosophy with a much bigger audience.
We hope that once you’ve cooked your way through some of these
recipes you’ll start to understand what it takes to make a great
pizza. Then, the real magic can happen. You can start to build your
own recipes, alter and tweak the pizzas provided here to suit your
tastes and become the master of your own pizzaverse. That’s our
true goal. And please, don’t forget to spread the word and share a
slice or two with those around you. One last thing! Remember:
unless otherwise noted, each recipe yields one 12 inch/30.5 cm
pizza.
So, without further ado, welcome to the team! You’re now officially
ready to roll up your sleeves and start the dough tossing.
1
THE BASICS: MAKING ’ZA MAGIC
We’ll go ahead and tell you right now, it’s not going to be easy. But
we’ve always believed that perseverance in the kitchen yields
delicious payoffs. It’s like all forms of art: the more you practice, the
more you refine, the better you’ll do. Give yourself a few chances.
When you make dough, go ahead and make a double batch so you
have extra to work with. Hell, make a triple batch if you need to.
Just don’t stop until you get it right. You got this! And on top of the
personal accomplishment you’ll feel, you’ll likely become pretty
popular when you share your handiwork. What you need to know is
that you should read through the entirety of this section before
beginning. Yeah, we know you probably won’t. But if you do, we
promise it’ll turn out better!
THE DOUGH
No matter how crazy the toppings, a winning pizza always starts
with quality dough. In our kitchen that means dough that becomes a
light, crisp, foldable crust. It has just a hint of sweetness, with
versatility to pair with our inventory of offbeat flavors. It’s also
important for our recipe that you use high-gluten flour and cold
water. The high-gluten flour will ensure the proper texture and the
cold water will help control the dough’s rising process. But all of the
recipes in this book will work with just about any type of dough,
keeping in mind that cook times will vary from what we have. This
recipe makes about two 12 inch/30.5 cm dough balls.
The best consistency for fully mixed dough is such that it’s sticky,
but not so sticky that it will leave residue on everything it touches.
If the dough is a little on the sticky side, sprinkle a little flour on top
of the dough and mix it manually with your hands. Cut the dough
into two equal-sized balls.