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restaurant–cafe-bars that are open all day. It of chilled prosecco while eyeing up gastro-
serves breakfasts (eggs Benedict etc), then nomic souvenirs from the deli.
lunch, dinner, burgers, club sandwiches,
cocktails, aperitivi – you name it, they’ve Roscioli PIZZA BY SLICE, BAKERY €

got it covered. The look is vintage Parisian (Map p94; Via Buonarroti 48; pizza slices €3;
h 7.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; m Vit-
glamour combined with 1990s New York
City chic. torio Emanuele) Off-the-track branch of this
splendid deli-bakery-pizzeria, with delish
Rome & L a zio R

Vineria Chianti WINE BAR €€€ pizza al taglio, pasta dishes and other good-
(Map p86; % 06 678 75 50; Via del Lavatore 81-82; ies that make it ideal for a swift lunch or pic-
meals €55; h 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm; g Via del nic stock-up. It’s on a road leading off Piazza
Tritone) This pretty ivy-clad wine bar is bottle- Vittorio Emanuele II.
lined inside, with watch-the-world-go-by
streetside seating in summer. Cuisine is Tus- Formula Uno PIZZERIA €
(Map p94; % 06 445 38 66; Via degli Equi 13;
E atin

can, so the beef is particularly good, but it

pizzas from €6; h 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat; g Via

also serves imaginative salads and pizza in

the evenings.
Lorenzo pizzeria is as adrenaline-fuelled as
Babette ITALIAN €€€ its name: waiters zoom around under whir-
(Map p86; % 06 321 15 59; Via Margutta 1; meals ring fans, delivering tomato-loaded brus-
€55; h closed Jan & Aug; v ; m Spagna, Flaminio) chetta, fried courgette flowers, supplì al tel-
Babette is run by two sisters who used to efono (fried rice croquettes with mozzarella)
produce a fashion magazine, which ac- and bubbling thin-crust pizza to eternal
counts for its effortlessly chic Fried Green crowds of feasting students.
Tomatoes–style interior of exposed brick
walls and vintage painted signs. You’re in for oL’Asino d’Oro MODERN ITALIAN €€

a feast too, as the cooking is delicious, with (Map p86; % 06 4891 3832; Via del Boschetto 73;
a sophisticated, creative French twist (think meals €45; h Tues-Sat; m Cavour) This fabulous
tortiglioni with courgette and pistachio restaurant has been transplanted from Orvi-
pesto). The daily lunch buffet (€10 Tuesday eto and its Umbrian origins resonate in Lu-
to Friday, €25 weekends) is a good deal. cio Sforza’s exceptional cooking. It’s unfussy
yet innovative, with dishes featuring lots of
flavourful contrasts, such as slow-roasted
5 Monti, Esquiline & rabbit in a rich berry sauce and desserts that
linger long after that last crumb. For such
San Lorenzo excellent food, this intimate, informal yet
Panella l’Arte del Pane BAKERY, CAFE € classy place is one of Rome’s best deals, es-
(Map p94; % 06 487 24 35; Via Merulana 54; pizza pecially for the set lunch.
slices around €3; h noon-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-
4pm Sun Mar-Oct; m Vittorio Emanuele) With a Trattoria Monti RISTORANTE €€
sumptuous array of pizza al taglio, supplì, (Map p94; % 06 446 65 73; Via di San Vito 13a;
focaccia and fried croquettes, this is a sub- meals €45; h 12.45-2.45pm Tue-Sun, 7.45-11pm
lime lunch stop, where you can sip a glass Tue-Sat, closed Aug; m Vittorio Emanuele) This
elegant brick-arched place offers top-notch
traditional cooking from the Marches re-
gion. There are wonderful fritti (fried
things), delicate pastas and ingredients such
FAST-FOOD PASTA as pecorino di fossa (sheep’s cheese aged in
caves), goose, swordfish and truffles. Try the
For most of the day Pastificio (Map
egg-yolk tortelli pasta. Desserts are delec-
p86; Via della Croce 8; pasta dish €4;
table, including apple pie with zabaglione.
h lunch 1-3pm Mon-Sat; m Spagna) goes
Book ahead.
about its business as a fresh pasta
shop, but at lunchtime it turns itself La Carbonara TRATTORIA €€
into the neighbourhood’s budget diner. (Map p68; % 06 482 51 76; Via Panisperna 214;
Locals pile in to fill up on the daily pasta meals €40; h Mon-Sat; m Cavour) This busy
dishes (there’s a choice of two) eaten restaurant was favoured by the Ragazzi di
out of plastic bowls wherever there’s Panisperna (named after the street), a group
room. of young physicists, including Enrico Fermi,