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SewingInstructions

The document provides detailed sewing instructions for creating a button-down placket, horizontal yoke, setting sleeves, single button square cuff, classic collar, and hemming a garment. Each section includes step-by-step guidance with specific techniques for folding, stitching, and finishing. Additionally, it emphasizes the importance of pressing and securing various components throughout the sewing process.

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2 views

SewingInstructions

The document provides detailed sewing instructions for creating a button-down placket, horizontal yoke, setting sleeves, single button square cuff, classic collar, and hemming a garment. Each section includes step-by-step guidance with specific techniques for folding, stitching, and finishing. Additionally, it emphasizes the importance of pressing and securing various components throughout the sewing process.

Uploaded by

vpauqzuciinrmreteq
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Sewing Instructions

Sewing Button Down Placket

- Mark foldlines based on notches as shown in picture number 1 (on the wrong side of the
garment).
- Fold the left and right side along the first notch and press.
- Fold Right piece along second notch and press, then edgestitch as shown on the picture
number 3.
- Fold Left piece along second and third notch leaving raw edge inside as shown in picture
number 4, press and edgestitch.
- Make buttonholes on Left Front at markings and sew buttons to the Right Front at markings.

Note:
Make buttonholes and sew buttons after finishing all steps of sewing.

Sewing Horizontal Yoke Plain

- Pin the Yoke (right sides together), sandwiching the back shirt piece between the yokes. Match
the notches, then stitch (pic 1.)
- Trim and clip the seam allowances as shown (pic. 2).
- Match the right and left Front shirt pieces at the shoulders of the Yoke and stitch (pic. 3).
- Press the Yoke pieces up (pic. 4) and topstitch the Back Yoke seam (pic. 5).
- Press the Front Yoke seams toward the Yoke. Press under the seam allowance of the top Yoke
and pin. Baste the yoke over the stitchline of the Front Yoke seam. Edgestitch the top layer of the
Yoke to the garment (pic. 6).
Setting the Sleeves

- With right sides together, pin sleeve to the armhole edge, matching notches. Match the center
sleeve notch with the shoulder seam. Baste, then stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away inside the seam allowance. Serge the seam. Press seam towards
the sleeve.
Sewing Side Seams and Underarms

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then pin sleeve edges together. Stitch in
one continuous seam from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the garment. To reinforce
the underarm seam, stitch again along the curve. Finish the seam allowances together and press
towards back.
Sewing Single Button Square Cuff

- Cut the sleeve opening (pic. 1).


- Pin the right side of the inner placket to the wrong side of the sleeve opening as shown and
stitch a 1/4" seam allowance. Begin stitching 1/2" from the placket end (pic. 2).
- Press under the unsewn 1/4" seam allowance (pic. 3).
- Turn the entire inner placket to the right side of the sleeve and press the placket in half, then
stitch in place along the folded seam allowance edge (pic. 4).
- Turn the sleeve and the finished placket back to expose the 1/2" placket tail and the clipped
triangular piece. Stitch across the base of this area (pic. 5).
-Pin the overlap binding to the wrong side of the sleeve opening and stitch at 1/4" seam
allowance. Fold in the unsewn seam allowances of the overlap binding and press. (pic. 6).
- Turn the outer placket to the right side of the sleeve. Keep the inner placket away from the outer
placket. Pin in place. All seam allowances are turned under and the 1/2" tail will be covered by
the outer placket piece. Topstitch the placket in place along all folded edges and seam edges
(keep the inner placket away from the outer placket to ensure that the stitching does not catch
the inner piece while sewing). Press (pic. 7).
- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the cuff. Fold the one long edge's seam allowance
toward the wrong side of the cuff, then press and pin two cuff pieces with right sides together.
Stitch outer edges at 5/8" seam allowance, leaving the long edge unsewn. Press and trim, then
turn cuff right side out and press again (pic. 8).
- Baste the pleats on the sleeve (pic. 9).
- Pin the right side of the cuff (open edge layer only) to the wrong side of the sleeve, matching the
lower edge of the sleeve. Stitch (pic. 10).
- Turn the sleeve right side out and pin the cuff (with the seam allowance folded under) over the
stitchline. Edgestitch along the folded-under seam allowance through all thicknesses the entire
length of the cuff (pic 11).
- Make buttonholes on the outer placket and on the right front edge of the cuff, then sew buttons
on the inner placket and right back edge of the cuff (pic. 12).
Sewing Classic Collar

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of collar pieces, following manufacturer's instructions.

- With right sides together, pin the collar sections together, matching notches, then stitch around
the outer edge of the collar. Trim corners 2 mm from stitching line to reduce thickness (pic. 1).
- Turn the collar right side out and press (pic. 2).
- Pin the collar stand section to the collar, right sides together and matching notches, then baste
(pic. 3).
- Press the lower edge of the outer collar stand section upwards to secure seam allowance (pic.
4).
- Pin the outer stand section to the collar, placing the collar between collar stands, then stitch
(pic. 5).
- Turn the collar right side out and press neatly (pic. 6).
- Pin the lower edge of the collar stand to neckline, matching notches and clipping garment neck
edge where necessary. Stitch, keeping the pressed edge free (pic. 7).
- Turn right side out, then tuck seam allowances into collar stand and press. For a clean/classic
look, stitch in the ditch along the neckline seam to connect the lower collar stand. Press (pic. 8).
Sewing Classic Collar

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of collar pieces, following manufacturer's instructions.

- With right sides together, pin the collar sections together, matching notches, then stitch around
the outer edge of the collar. Trim corners 2 mm from stitching line to reduce thickness (pic. 1).
- Turn the collar right side out and press (pic. 2).
- Pin the collar stand section to the collar, right sides together and matching notches, then baste
(pic. 3).
- Press the lower edge of the outer collar stand section upwards to secure seam allowance (pic.
4).
- Pin the outer stand section to the collar, placing the collar between collar stands, then stitch
(pic. 5).
- Turn the collar right side out and press neatly (pic. 6).
- Pin the lower edge of the collar stand to neckline, matching notches and clipping garment neck
edge where necessary. Stitch, keeping the pressed edge free (pic. 7).
- Turn right side out, then tuck seam allowances into collar stand and press. For a clean/classic
look, stitch in the ditch along the neckline seam to connect the lower collar stand. Press. Make a
buttonhole in Left Front at marking and sew a button to the Right Front at marking (pic. 8).
Hem

- Finish the lower raw edge of the garment. Turn up the hem along foldline. Sew hem in place.
Press.

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