87K Customer Training book insert
87K Customer Training book insert
See the above illustrations for parts identification, and a 4. Install the tool washers and nuts on the tie rod ends
visual description of how the tool assembles to the tie and run up hand tight to the tool.
rods of the intensifier. 5. Connect the hand pump hose to the tool at the
1. Apply anti-seize (A-10039) to all exposed threads of quick-disconnect fitting (see below).
each tie rod. Apply anti-seize to the threads of the Note: On some tool models the hand pump hose
end cap nuts and tool nuts and the contacting faces does not have a quick-disconnect fitting. If this is the
of the nuts and their washers. case, leave the hose attached to the tool at all times
2. With the high-pressure seal assembly, high-pressure to prevent leaking.
cylinder, filler tube, check valve assembly, and end
cap in place, install the end cap washers and nuts on
the tie rods and run up hand tight to the end cap.
3. Install the tool on the tie rods and locate the tool pis-
ton step in the end cap counterbore.
6. Open the pressure-release valve on the hand pump 11. Bleed off the remaining tool pressure by opening the
by turning the valve handle counterclockwise one pump pressure-release valve.
turn. 12. Remove the hand pump hose from the tool at the
7. Collapse the pressure loading tool using a ratchet quick-disconnect fitting.
and socket on the tool nuts. In the pattern shown Note: On some tool models the hand pump hose
below, torque the tool nuts to 20 ft-lb (27 N-m), then does not have a quick-disconnect fitting. In this case,
to 50 ft-lb (67.8 N-m). the hose should be left attached to the tool at all
Note: Water from the tool will flow back to the times to prevent leaking.
hand pump reservoir.
13. Remove the pressure loading tool nuts and washers.
Remove the tool.
5. Install the tool washers and nuts on the tie rod ends
and run up hand tight to the tool.
9. Again using the ratchet and socket, back off the tool 15. Remove the pressure loading tool nuts and washers,
nuts exactly one full turn. then remove the tool.
Note: Failure to back off the tool nuts will make it 16. Remove the end cap nuts and washers.
impossible to remove the tool from the tie rod.
10. Close the hand pump pressure-release valve by turn -
ing the valve handle clockwise until tight.
11. Pump the tool to the 9200 psi (634 bar) mark on the
pressure gauge.
Note: It will take 60 to 70 pumps before pressure
will begin to build.
12. Loosen the four end cap nuts and back off two full
turns.
13. Bleed off the tool pressure by opening the pump
pressure-release valve.
14. Remove the hand pump hose from the tool at the
quick-disconnect fitting.
Note: On some tool models the hand pump hose
does not have a quick-disconnect fitting. If this is the
case, leave the hose attached to the tool at all times
to prevent leaking.
Service notes
Flow recommends that all high-pressure seals on the in- 5. Note the orientation of the check valve body by ob-
tensifier be serviced at the same time. This will help serving the position of the eccentrically positioned
prevent unnecessary downtime. outlet body relative to the intensifier. This is impor-
tant when reinstalling the check valve body—correct
orientation is critical to ensure the correct fit of
Tools required
high-pressure tubing, which is affected by the eccen-
1” open-end wrench tricity of the outlet body.
7 in. open-end wrench
8
Note: The check valve body is usually positioned
11
16 in. open-end wrench with the outlet body away from the intensifier mani-
Flat-head screwdriver fold block (see below), but this may vary on some
intensifiers.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel.
2. Disconnect the inlet water hose from the end cap. 020070-1 Short-block intensifier
3. Using two wrenches, disconnect the high-pressure
tubing from the check valve outlet adapter. Loosen
the other end of the tubing and move it out of the
way.
4. Unload the intensifier tie rods.
• See Maintenance Procedure A, Disassembling
the 87K Intensifier
6. Remove the end cap from the tie rods. Note that the 8. Pry the seal carrier away from the end bell using a
check valve assembly will stay inside the end cap be- flat-bladed screwdriver in the groove provided, as
cause of compression of the o-ring on the check shown.
valve body. Once the seal carrier is away from the end bell, slide
Note: Unless check valve maintenance is necessary it off the ceramic plunger by hand.
(Maintenance Procedure D) you do not need to re-
move the check valve assembly from the end cap.
10. Slide the high-pressure cylinder over the ceramic 12. Reinstall the check valve assembly and end cap to-
plunger and into the end bell bushing. A slight rock- gether by sliding the end cap along the tie rods and
ing motion will help ease the cylinder into position. guiding the high-pressure cylinder into the bronze
bushing of the end cap. Take care to align the check
valve assembly with the correct orientation as previ-
ously noted in Step 5.
CAUTION
Make sure the filler tube is oriented correctly.
There is a wall inside the tube that must be at the outermost
end of the tube when it is inserted. Failure to orient the tube 13. Reload the intensifier tie rods.
correctly will damage the intensifier assembly.
• See Maintenance Procedure A, Assembling the
87K Intensifier
1” open-end wrench
Note: The check valve body is usually positioned so
with the outlet body away from the intensifier mani-
7
8 in. open-end wrench
fold block, but this may vary on some intensifiers.
11
16 in. open-end wrench
014623-1 Long-block intensifier
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel. 020070-1 Short-block intensifier
6. Remove the end cap from the tie rods. The check 8. Slide the high-pressure cylinder over the ceramic
valve assembly will remain inside the end cap due to plunger and into the end bell bushing. A slight rock-
the compression of the o-ring on the check valve ing motion will help ease the cylinder into position.
body.
Note: Unless check valve maintenance is necessary
(Maintenance Procedure D) you do not need to re-
move the check valve assembly from the end cap.
CAUTION
Make sure the filler tube is oriented correctly.
7. Remove the high-pressure cylinder and filler tube There is a wall inside the tube that must be at the outermost
from the intensifier end bell. Rocking the cylinder end of the tube when it is inserted. Failure to orient the tube
correctly will damage the intensifier assembly.
gently while pulling will help separate the cylinder
from the end bell.
CAUTION
When the cylinder is clear of the end bell, pull it
straight out to avoid contact with the ceramic plunger. Other-
wise, you could damage the plunger.
10. Reinstall the check valve assembly and end cap to-
gether by sliding the end cap along the tie rods and
guiding the high-pressure cylinder into the bronze
bushing of the end cap. Take care to align the check
valve assembly with the correct orientation as previ-
ously noted in Step 5.
Service notes
There are three ways to service the high-pressure inlet
check valve:
• D-1: Replacing the entire check valve body • D-3: Lapping the check valve body face and the
assembly inlet poppet
• D-2: Lapping the check valve body face and replac-
ing the inlet poppet
Lapping notes
When lapping any component, if the sealing surface
cannot easily be restored by the lapping techniques de -
scribed in this section, you can machine it flat before
lapping as long as you machine only the sealing surface,
maintain the perpendicularity of the face to the compo-
nent axis, and maintain these minimum dimensions:
• Shoulder of the check valve body: minimum height
of 0.475 in. (12.06 mm)
• Check valve inlet poppet: minimum thickness of
0.120 in. (3.048 mm)
• The retaining screw thread depth of the check valve
body may need to be increased. This increase shall
not exceed 0.01 in. (0.25 mm) at any time.
Maintenance Procedure D1
Replacing the check valve body assembly
Service notes 5. Note the orientation of the check valve body by ob-
serving the position of the eccentrically positioned
Before performing this procedure, review Using the
outlet body relative to the intensifier. This is impor-
pressure loading tool on Page 21.
tant when reinstalling the check valve body—correct
orientation is critical to ensure the correct fit of
Tools required high-pressure tubing, which is affected by the eccen-
1 in. open-end wrench tricity of the outlet body.
7
8 in. open-end wrench Note: The check valve body is usually positioned
11 in. open-end wrench with the outlet body away from the intensifier mani-
16
fold block, but this may vary on some intensifiers.
Food grade grease (A-4689)
014623-1 Long-block intensifier
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel.
6. Remove the end cap from the tie rods. Note that 9. Make sure the conical sealing surfaces of the check
compression of the o-ring on the check valve body valve assembly and the end cap are clean and free of
will keep the check valve assembly in the end cap. debris.
Install the new check valve assembly by pushing it
into the end cap as indicated. Take care to align the
check valve assembly with the correct orientation as
explained in Step 5.
Maintenance Procedure D2
Lapping the check valve body face and
installing the inlet replacement kit
Tools required 3. Using two wrenches, disconnect the high-pressure
½ in. drive torque wrench tubing from the check valve outlet adapter. Loosen
the other end of the tubing and move it out of the
¼ in. drive torque wrench
way.
1¼ in. socket (½ in. drive) and handle
4. Unload the intensifier tie rods.
5
16 in. socket (¼ drive)
1 in. open-end wrench • See Maintenance Procedure A, Disassembling
7 in. open-end wrench
the 87K Intensifier
8
11
16 in. open-end wrench
5 in. open-end wrench
5. Note the orientation of the check valve body by ob-
16
serving the position of the eccentrically positioned
Lapping kit (B-1813-3)
outlet body relative to the intensifier. This is impor-
Check valve inlet replacement kit (014884-1) tant when reinstalling the check valve body—correct
Food grade grease (A-4689) orientation is critical to ensure the correct fit of
Blue Lubricant (A-2185) high-pressure tubing, which is affected by the eccen-
Loctite #242 (A-3202) tricity of the outlet body.
Note: The check valve body is usually positioned
with the outlet body away from the intensifier mani-
fold block, but this may vary on some intensifiers.
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel.
6. Remove the end cap from the tie rods. Note that 9. Using a 5 16 in. open-end wrench, remove the inlet
compression of the o-ring on the check valve body screw from the face of the check valve body.
will hold the check valve assembly inside the end Remove the inlet check valve support and the inlet
cap. poppet.
10. Clamp the check valve assembly in the soft-jawed
vise, holding the assembly on the flats of the check
valve body.
Using a 1¼ in. socket wrench, remove the outlet
adapter from the check valve body. Remove the out-
let check valve poppet, compression spring, check
valve seat, and outlet spring seat and set aside. Also
remove the large o-ring from the check valve body
and set it aside.
11. Install the check valve body lapping tool (014853-1) 15. Carefully clean the newly-lapped check valve body
around the check valve nose. Place the assembly, with clean solvent such as isopropyl alcohol. Dry and
end face down, on a flat surface. Slide the tool down re-inspect the part.
as far as it will go, until the check valve body and
tool end faces are flush. Tighten the lapping tool CAUTION
Lapping debris remaining after incomplete cleaning
onto the check valve body.
will result in reduced component life.
13. Turn the lapping plate over and place a few drops of
water on the 600 grit side of the plate. Lap the check
valve body in a figure-8 pattern until the body is
evenly polished.
14. To avoid poppet sticking problems, turn the lapping
plate back over to the 320 grit side and draw the 18. Lubricate the o-ring (removed from the check valve
check valve body in a straight line along the abrasive body in Step 10) with food grade grease (A-4689).
strip once, then rotate the body 90° and repeat the Replace the o-ring on the check valve body.
score.
19. Clean the outlet check valve seat, outlet poppet, com- 21. Clean and inspect all surfaces in the end cap.
pression spring, outlet spring seat and the threads and Lubricate the bore of the end cap with food
bore of the outlet adapter with solvent. See parts grade lubricant as shown.
identified below.
Apply a small amount of Blue
Lubricant to the outlet adapter
threads and the conical surfaces
of the outlet check valve seat.
Maintenance Procedure D3
Lapping the check valve body face and inlet poppet
Tools required 3. Using two wrenches, disconnect the high-pressure
½ in. drive torque wrench tubing from the check valve outlet adapter. Loosen
the other end of the tubing and move it out of the
¼ in. drive torque wrench
way.
1¼ in. socket (½ in. drive) and handle
4. Unload the intensifier tie rods.
5
16 in. socket (¼ drive)
1 in. open-end wrench • See Maintenance Procedure A, Disassembling
7 in. open-end wrench
the 87K Intensifier
8
11
16 in. open-end wrench
5 in. open-end wrench
5. Note the orientation of the check valve body by ob-
16
serving the position of the eccentrically positioned
Lapping kit (B-1813-3)
outlet body relative to the intensifier. This is impor-
Check valve inlet replacement kit (014884-1) tant when reinstalling the check valve body—correct
Food grade grease (A-4689) orientation is critical to ensure the correct fit of
Blue Lubricant (A-2185) high-pressure tubing, which is affected by the eccen-
Loctite 242 (A-3202) tricity of the outlet body.
Note: The check valve body is usually positioned
with the outlet body away from the intensifier mani-
fold block, but this may vary on some intensifiers.
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel.
6. Remove the end cap from the tie rods. Note that 8. In a soft-jawed vise, clamp the check valve assembly
compression of the o-ring on the check valve body on the flats machined into the body.
will keep the check valve assembly in the end cap.
Lapping the check valve body 14. To avoid poppet sticking problems, turn the lapping
plate back over to the 320 grit side and draw the
Check valve body lapping notes: check valve body along the abrasive strip once, then
• The dimensions for the check valve body listed at the rotate it 90° and repeat the score.
beginning of Maintenance Procedure D are the mini-
mum allowed. You can re-use the check valve body
down to these dimensions, but you must discard the
check valve body if it becomes smaller.
• Hand lapping, machining, machine grinding, polish-
ing, or a combination thereof are usually all accept-
able ways to remove surface imperfections from
components before final lapping.
CAUTION
Any lapping debris that remains after incomplete
cleaning will result in reduced component life.
13. Turn the lapping plate over and place a few drops of
water on the 600 grit side of the plate. Lap the check
valve body in a figure-8 pattern until the check valve
body is evenly polished.
16. Place a few drops of water on the 320 grit side of the
lapping plate. Lap the inlet poppet in a figure-8 pat-
tern until all surface imperfections have been
removed.
17. Turn the lapping plate over and place a few drops of 20. Lubricate the o-ring (removed from the check valve
water on the 600 grit side of the plate. Lap the inlet body in Step 8) with food grade grease (A-4689).
poppet in a figure-8 pattern until the check valve Replace the o-ring on the check valve body.
seat is evenly polished.
18. Clean the newly-lapped inlet poppet with clean sol-
vent such as isopropyl alcohol. Dry and re-inspect
the part.
CAUTION
Lapping debris remaining after incomplete cleaning
will result in reduced component life.
22. Assemble the outlet components of the check valve 24. Reinstall the end cap complete with check valve
body as shown. Thread the outlet adapter onto the body assembly by sliding along the tie rods and guid-
check valve body. Secure hand tight, then torque the ing the high-pressure cylinder into the bronze bush-
assembly to 200 ft-lb (271.2 N-m) with a calibrated ing of the end cap.
torque wrench.
Service notes
There are two ways to do this service:
• E1: Replacing the outlet poppet and
check valve seat
• E2: Lapping the outlet poppet and
check valve seat
014885-1
Outlet replacement kit
Maintenance Procedure E1
Replacing the outlet poppet and check valve seat
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
5. Remove the check valve seat from the check valve
WARNING body.
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF Note: The check valve seat can be difficult to re-
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical move. If necessary, insert the sharpened end of a
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause small dowel or a sharp pencil into the check valve
equipment damage or injury to personnel. seat. Push until the check valve seat is fixed to the
dowel, then pull it out.
2. Using two wrenches, disconnect the high-pressure
tubing from the check valve outlet adapter. Loosen
the other end of the tubing and move it out of the
way.
3. Using a 1¼ in. socket and handle, unscrew the out-
let adapter from the check valve body.
7. Lay out and inspect all components of the outlet 10. Thread the outlet adapter into the check valve body.
check valve replacement kit. Torque to 200 ft-lb (271.2 N-m).
8. Apply a small amount of Blue Lubricant to the
threads of the outlet adapter and insert the old
spring seat, new compression spring, and new outlet
poppet into the bore in the order shown.
Maintenance Procedure E2
Lapping the outlet check valve components
Tools required 4. Remove the check valve seat from the check valve
1¼ in. socket (½ in. drive) and handle body.
1 in. open-end wrench Note: The check valve seat can be difficult to
7 in. open-end wrench remove. If necessary, insert the sharpened end of a
8
small dowel or a sharp pencil into the check valve
11
16 in. open-end wrench
seat. Push until the check valve seat is fixed to the
Lapping kit (B-1813-3)
dowel, then pull it out.
Blue Lubricant (A-2185)
5. Remove the outlet poppet from the outlet adapter,
Drill press
being careful not to lose the compression spring or
outlet spring seat.
Service steps
1. Shut down the system.
WARNING
Place the main electrical disconnect in the OFF
position and bleed down the high-pressure lines.
Place an “Out of Service” tag on the main electrical
disconnect and lock it out. Failure to do so can cause
equipment damage or injury to personnel.
7. Attach a 320 grit abrasive strip to one side of Lapping the outlet poppet
the glass plate, and a 600 grit strip to the other In order to achieve maximum performance and life, the seal-
side.
ing surface must be flat and have no radial grinding or lapping
Place a few drops of water on the 320 grit side marks. Because of its shape and small size, hand lapping the
of the lapping plate and lap the check valve poppet can round the sealing surface, which causes squealing
seat in a figure-8 pattern until all surface im- during operation. FLOW recommends using a drill press to
perfections have been removed. lap this part.
8. Turn the lapping plate over and place a few
drops of water on the 600 grit side of the plate. 10. Make sure the drill chuck is square to the table and se-
Lap the check valve seat in a figure-8 pattern curely fastened so it does not wobble.
on the 600 grit side until the check valve seat is 11. Insert the chamfered end of the poppet into the chuck up
evenly polished. to the shoulder, then secure it.
12. Place the lapping glass on the drill press table with the 320
grit paper up.
13. Place a few drops of water on the lapping plate.
Start the drill press and lower the poppet onto the glass
plate, moving the lapping plate in a figure-8 pattern under
the poppet. Lap until all surface imperfections have been
removed.
CAUTION
DO NOT lap with 600 grit abrasive.
A polished sealing surface can
cause the poppet to stick.
Reassembly 17. Thread the outlet adapter into the check valve body.
14. Using clean solvent, clean all lapped components Torque to 200 ft-lb (271.2 N-m).
and the threads and bore of the outlet adapter.
CAUTION
Lapping debris remaining after incomplete
cleaning will result in reduced component life.
5. Note the orientation of the check valve body by ob- 6. At one end of the intensifier, remove the end cap
serving the position of the eccentrically positioned from the tie rods. The check valve assembly will re-
outlet body relative to the intensifier. This is impor- main in the end cap due to the compression of the
tant when reinstalling the check valve body—correct o-ring on the check valve body.
orientation is critical to ensure the correct fit of Note: Unless check valve maintenance is necessary
high-pressure tubing, which is affected by the eccen- (Maintenance Procedure D) it is not necessary to re-
tricity of the outlet body. move the check valve assembly from the end cap.
Note: The check valve bodies are usually positioned
with the outlet bodies away from the intensifier man-
ifold block, but this may vary on some intensifiers.
8. Pry the seal carrier away from the end bell using a 11. Loosen the screws that hold the manifold to the in-
flat-bladed screwdriver in the groove provided, as tensifier, then separate the two assemblies. Drain oil
shown. from the intensifier ports.
Once the seal carrier is away from the end bell, re- If the intensifier is not connected to a hydraulic res-
move it by hand by sliding it along the ceramic ervoir, simply disconnect the hydraulic hose fittings
plunger. from each end bell.
Discard the used seal carrier, o-ring, and high-pres- 014623-1 Long-block intensifier
sure seal.
12. Securely bolt the fixture plate (014030-1) to a sturdy 14. Use the ratchet handle and torque multiplier (as
workbench. shown below) to loosen the tie rod nuts at one end
of the low-pressure cylinder assembly.
WARNING Loosen the nuts in the figure-8 pattern shown below,
Failure to properly mount the intensifier assembly turning each nut no more than ¼ turn, repeating the
fixture or secure the intensifier to the intensifier sequence until nuts are loose. This will avoid over-
fixture could allow the parts to unexpectedly
tip and fall, causing serious bodily injury.
loading of the tie rods or nuts. Remove the tie rods,
nuts, and washers and set aside.
15. Remove the cap screws that hold one end bell to the
intensifier assembly fixture. Using a mallet, tap the
end bell free of the cylinder. Remove the end bell
and set it aside.
CAUTION
Do not use a pipe wrench—it will mark the
tie rod and cause premature tie rod failure.
16. Remove the cylinder from the other end bell. The 19. Clean the hydraulic cylinder, end bells, oil seal spac-
piston and plungers can stay with the cylinder. ers and snap rings. All service must be completed in
Do not use a screwdriver to pry the cylinder from a clean, well-lit area.
the end bell. Inspect the parts for the following:
• Make sure the oil seal spacers are not warped or
nicked.
• Make sure the snap rings are not bent and that they
still have the appropriate tension.
• Check the end bells for damage to the sealing sur-
faces and grooves, and a damaged or out-of-round
shift pin hole.
• Clean all surfaces of the low-pressure cylinder and
inspect for any signs of damage or fatigue. Inspect
the inner surface by looking through the cylinder an-
gled toward a brightly lit white surface. If there is any
damage to this surface that can be felt with a finger-
nail, discard the cylinder.
CAUTION
Do not reassemble the intensifier with a cylinder
that has a damaged inner surface.
17. Use a soft mallet to drive the piston and plungers
from the cylinder. Set the parts aside. Sharp burrs on the beveled edge of the cylinder ID
can damage the end bell o-ring and backup ring when
the parts are assembled. Such damage can lead to immediate
End bells seal failure and excessive hydraulic oil loss.
18. Remove the snap ring, spacer and oil seal from one
20. Apply clean hydraulic oil or Parker Super O-ring
end bell bore. Remove the large diameter o-ring and
Lube to a new oil seal and install it in an end bell
back-up ring from the end bell.
with the spring insert visible. (See orientation in illus-
CAUTION tration below, and in Step 18.)
Do not use a sharp tool to remove Take care not to collapse the oil seal spring insert
these parts—it will damage the parts.
when installing. Place the spacer on top of the seal
and install the snap ring.
Repeat this step for the other end bell.
21. Apply clean hydraulic oil or Parker Super O-ring 23. Remove the snap ring and retainer (blow air down
Lube to the new backup ring. Locate the molding between the plunger and the retainer bore to loosen
marks, and install the backup ring so the molding the retainer). Remove the plunger by hand.
marks face the end bell. Lubricate the new o-ring • Repeat for the other plunger. Set plungers
and place it in the groove on top of the backup ring. aside.
The o-ring must be outside of the backup ring, facing
the low-pressure cylinder.
22. Repeat Steps 20–21 for the other end bell, then set
both end bells aside and cover with a lint-free cloth.
24. Remove the T-seals from the piston. Do not scratch
the piston sealing surfaces.
Piston and plungers
25. Clean all parts of the piston assembly. Make sure oil,
Disassemble the piston and plungers for any of these dirt, and burrs are removed from all surfaces.
reasons:
Notes:
• One or both of the plungers need to be replaced.
• Inspect the plungers carefully. Nicks, scratches,
• The piston needs to be replaced. or pits will cause premature failure of high-
• A plunger has excessive lateral movement relative to pressure seals.
the piston biscuit. (Excessive lateral movement is • Plungers cannot be reworked in the field.
anything over 18 in. off center line at the plunger tip.) Contact FLOW Technical Service for informa-
tion on factory re work of plungers.
If any of the above apply, continue with Step 23. • Inspect the piston for cracks; replace as
Otherwise, skip to Step 29. needed.
26. Lubricate the new T-seals and backup rings with Low-pressure cylinder
Parker O-Ring Lube (200006). Place two backup 29. Apply clean hydraulic oil or Parker Super O-Ring
rings and one T-seal in each piston groove. The
Lube to one new seal and the inside of the low-
T-seal must be in the middle of the two backup rings. pressure cylinder. Install the seal onto the piston with
the flared (o-ring) face toward the outside of the
piston.
CAUTION
Take care when the seal enters the cylinder.
It is compressed at this point and can easily
be damaged by rough handling.
31. Continue sliding the piston into the cylinder until the 34. Mount an end bell to the assembly fixture. Insert two
empty seal groove on the piston exits the other end fixture plate screws and fasten finger tight.
of the cylinder. Note: The backup ring and o-ring were lubricated
CAUTION
and installed in Step 21.
If the seal starts to come out of the end of the
cylinder, do not force it back against the flare.
Instead, push the whole piston assembly through and start
again, this time stopping before the seal appears.
33. Slide the piston and plunger back into the cylinder.
Take care when the seal is being compressed as it
enters the cylinder—the seal can easily be damaged
by rough handling at this point.
Note: Centering the piston will make intensifier
re-assembly easier.
37. Apply anti-seize lubricant (A-10039) to one end of 39. Draw the low-pressure cylinder carefully onto the
the low-pressure tie rods and to the faces of the end bells by tightening the nuts evenly in a figure-8
washers and nuts. Run the nuts onto the tie rods un - pattern, as shown below. Be careful not to nick the
til they bottom out, then slide the tie rods through seals and back-up rings. There must be no seal or
the two end bells. back-up ring debris visible at the cylinder/end bell
interface. Be sure to check for any problems before
continuing.
Following the figure-8 pattern shown below, torque
all nuts evenly to 20 ft-lb (27 N-m) to seat all parts.
SB-0216
87K Low Pressure Cylinder Tie Rod Final Torque
Introduction
An error has been detected on p. 66 of M-376. The final torque for the tie rods is 535 ft-lbs.
Affected Systems
All 87K intensifiers on HyperJet and StoneCrafter pumps.
Instructions
The manual should read:
Using the torque wrench (and the torque multiplier when necessary) tighten the nuts not more
than ¼ turn at a time, following the figure-8 sequence. Torque all four nuts at one end to 200 ft-
lb (271 N-m), then to 400 ft-lb (542 N-m), then to 535 ft-lb (725 N-m).
Lifecycle
Creation Date: 11/30/2007
Most Recent Review Date: 11/30/2007
Active Period: 12 months (11/30/2008)
42. Insert the second pair of fixture plate screws into the 45. Lubricate the manifold o-rings (shown on the follow-
second end bell and tighten both screws to 30 ft-lb ing illustration) with food grade grease and place
(41 N-m). The bolts must hold the end bells tight them in the end bells. Bring the hydraulic manifold
against the fixture to prevent any misalignment. and the intensifier together and secure them with the
Retighten the tie rod nuts to 20 ft-lb (27 N-m) to original cap screws. Tighten the cap screws to
keep the end bells seated. 35 ft-lb (47 N-m).
If your intensifier does not connect directly to the
43. Tighten the tie rod nuts at one end of the tie rods hydraulic manifold, simply replace the hydraulic
only, while restraining the nuts on the other end us- lines. Take care to ensure proper lubrication and
ing a suitable wrench, moving from one nut to the placement of the o-rings.
next in a figure-8 pattern (shown below).
014623-1 Long-block intensifier
Note: You must follow the torque pattern shown
(1-2-3-4). Correctly moving from nut 2 to nut 3
crosses the LONG dimension of the rectangular end
bell. DO NOT substitute with the pattern 1-2-4-3.
Using the torque wrench (and the torque multiplier
when necessary) tighten the nuts not more than ¼
turn at a time, following the figure-8 sequence.
Torque all four nuts at one end to 200 ft-lb
(271 N-m), then 400 ft-lb (542 N-m), then 600 ft-lb
(812 N-m), and finally to 720 ft-lb (975 N-m).
46. Apply anti-seize to all threads of the high-pressure tie 49. Install the high-pressure cylinder by sliding it over the
rods and thread into the nuts (hand tight) as shown ceramic plunger and into the end bell bushing.
below. A slight rocking motion will help ease the cylinder
into position.
47. Install shift pins and shift sensors. Refer to your pump 50. Install the filler tube in the high-pressure cylinder.
manual for detailed instructions.
CAUTION
Make sure the filler tube is oriented correctly.
There is a wall inside the tube that must be at the outermost
end of the tube when it is inserted. Failure to orient the tube
correctly will damage the intensifier assembly.
48. Place the seal carrier assembly onto the plunger end,
then using the filler tube as a tool, push the assembly
along the plunger until it butts against the end bell
face. Verify that the dynamic seal is still fully seated
in the seal carrier.
6. Remove the adapter from the high-pressure body. 20. Apply blue lubricant to the threads, then install the
adapter into the valve body. Torque to 125 ft-lb
7. Remove and discard the high-pressure seat.
(170 N-m).
8. Remove and discard the high-pressure seal assembly
21. Thread the actuator body into the high-pressure
(poppet, seal, back-up ring, o-ring, and bearing).
valve assembly and tighten.
9. Remove the oil port adapter and use a 3 16 -in. dowel
22. Reinstall the bleed-down valve on the pump bracket
(or similar) to push the piston insert and piston out
and insert the gland nut in the high-pressure inlet
of the actuator body through the oil port.
port in the side of the valve. Torque the gland nut to
10. Remove and discard the o-ring and back-up ring 35 ft-lb (47 N-m).
from the piston.
23. Install the gland nut that connects the water drain
11. Clean the remaining parts in an ultrasonic cleaner. tubing to the bleed-down valve, and reinstall the
Check the parts for nicks and burrs; replace as high-pressure water pressure sensor.
necessary.
24. Reattach the hydraulic hose to the oil port of the
12. Lubricate a new o-ring, back-up ring, and the inner bleed-down valve.
surface of the actuator body with Parker Super O
Ring Lube or equivalent. Return the intensifier pump to operation. Correct any
13. Install the new o-ring and back-up ring on the actua- water or oil leaks.
tor piston with the back-up ring towards the insert
end of the piston. Install the insert into the piston,
then install the piston assembly into the actuator
body until seated.
Note: Avoid damaging the o-ring on the threads and
inside corners of the actuator body.
14. Replace the oil port adapter in the actuator body.
15. Lubricate the poppet, seal, o-ring, and bearing with
White Food Grade O Ring Lube.
16. Install the o-ring onto the high-pressure seal and
then install the seal onto the poppet with the o-ring
towards the pointed end of the poppet.
17. Install the new bearing and back-up ring onto the
poppet with the bearing on the pointed end side
and the back-up ring on the opposite side of the
seal. Then insert the assembly into the high-pressure
body through the actuator port (largest diameter
thread).
18. Push the back-up ring down until seated against the
flat bottom of the port.
19. Install the high-pressure seat in the high-pressure
body, applying Blue Lubricant to mating surfaces.
Note: The seat is symmetrical and either face may
be inserted first.
WARNING
Shut down the system and bleed all high-pressure
from the system. Turn off the high-pressure water
and high-pressure water pump. Close the hand valve
between the pump and the cutting head.
7. Place the assembly tool (from the tool kit) against the 10. Put together the new seal assembly.
poppet tip and push it out from the valve body. a. Slide the bearing onto the poppet.
b. Place the small high-pressure o-ring on the
high-pressure seal.
c. Push the seal onto the poppet with the o-ring
toward the point of the poppet.
d. Slide the backup ring into place against the
high-pressure seal.
The seal assembly should be approximately centered
on the poppet.
SB-0217
87K On/Off Valve Connection Torque
Introduction
An error has been detected in the manuals for 87K Hyperjet® and StoneCrafter®. The final torque for the
connection between the on/off valve body and the nozzle body should be 35-40 ft-lb (47-54 N-m).
Affected Manuals
! M-366, IFB2 with HyPlex® Pump. Page 83
! M-368, IFB2 with 50i-S Pump. Page 69
! M-378, IFB2 with 100i-D Pump. Page 71
! M-391, Hyperjet® Integrated Flying Bridge. Page 37
Instructions
The manual should read:
Re-assemble the nozzle body to the valve body. This high-pressure connection requires about
35-40 ft-lb (47-54 N-m) of torque.
Lifecycle
Creation Date: 3/27/08
Most Recent Review Date: 3/27/08
Active Period: 12 months (3/27/09)