MONTANA

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO
MUSHROOMING
Expert advice on what—and what not—to pick and eat.
BY CATHY CRIPPS

A
rainstorm the previous week had room foray near my cabin. What luck! I
produced an explosion of wild learned a huge amount from this eclectic
mushrooms. The forest floor group and by attending their subsequent
was covered with fleshy mushroom festivals in Telluride, Colorado.
fungi of all shapes, sizes, and Ultimately, this led to a long professional
colors: Frilly orange vases, bumpy white career studying and teaching mycology in
orbs, intricate yellow corals, and meaty Montana and a lifetime of collecting, cook-
purple monsters stood shoulder to shoulder. ing, and eating these delicious wild foods.
These wild mushrooms grabbed my atten-
tion: What were they, and, more impor- The basics
tantly, were they edible? Wild mushrooms are the fruiting bodies
That was 50 years ago, while I was living of fungi that sprout from soil or dead wood.
in a small cabin high in the Rocky Mountains Sustaining the mushrooms are networks of
of Colorado. I was trying to live off the land, underground threadlike mycelium, which
surviving mostly on venison, grouse, berries, extract nutrients from soil and plants.
and wild plants. I wondered: Could I add The best way to learn about wild mush-
wild mushrooms to my diet without poison- rooms is to go out with an expert or, better
ing myself? yet, a group of experts. Second best is to con-
Down the road in a former coal-mining sult regional field guides. The worst way is
town lived many European immigrants who by trial and error, what I call “mushroom
knew about wild mushrooms. These “old- roulette.” Some people will cook almost any
timers,” as my friends and I reverently wild mushroom they find and, if it tastes
called them, picked mostly king boletes and good, figure it’s safe. Bad idea. It’s just a
chanterelles, two well-known edible species. matter of time before they consume the
PRETTY AND TASTY Resembling Occasionally I shadowed them to their “loaded chamber” and get sick, or worse.
fairyland umbrellas, two shaggy secret spots, learning the habitats of a cou- Many wild mushroom species can cause
manes push up from the moist ple of species. I also picked up a bit from the severe stomach upset or other gastronomic
forest floor along the Milk River.
These mushrooms with shaggy
few field guides I could find, though back problems. A few species are deadly. To learn
or scaly caps on long stems are then none had color photos. how to safely harvest delicious wild mush-
among Montana’s most easily Then one year a band of roving mycolo- rooms in Montana, stick with the popular
recognizable edible species. gists (mushroom experts) hosted a mush- edible—and easy-to-identify—species and
Often found in the fall under

NATHAN COOPER
urban hardwood trees and along
old logging roads, they taste best
Cathy Cripps is a mycologist and professor of plant sciences and plant pathology at Montana
picked young and cooked quickly State University in Bozeman. She is the lead author of The Essential Guide to Rocky Mountain
after harvest. Mushrooms by Habitat.
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learn to avoid the most inedible and toxic ern Montana that mushroom season was temperatures, so get them to a refrigerator
ones, the most dangerous of which we’ve over by the end of May. as soon as possible. Many so-called “poi- Mushroom anatomy
included in this guide (page 32). Favorable mushroom weather returns in sonings” have resulted from people eating The most common mushrooms have a stem supporting a cap,
late August if the area you’re in receives late- ordinarily safe mushrooms that spoiled in with gills underneath. This “gilled” mushroom category contains
When and where to go summer rains. With enough moisture, early warm storage. the poisonous Amanita species (page 32). Only one of the edible
Timing and location are key to finding wild autumn is the time for chanterelles, king Listed here are 10 common edible mush- mushrooms in this guide, the shaggy mane (page 31), has gills.
mushrooms. Though there are hundreds of boletes, and several other varieties. These rooms and several poisonous ones. Use this
species, each with unique habitats, all mush- sprout first at lower elevations, then increas- article as a starting point, but also buy a re-
Cap
rooms sprout for a day to a week after a rain, ingly higher over subsequent weeks. gional (Rocky Mountain) mushroom guide-
making wet periods and wet places the most Note that even in wet conditions, certain book or download online guides as backup
productive times and sites for foraging. mushrooms sprout only during certain times to confirm your finds.
The best seasons are spring and fall, of the year, such as yellow morels in spring Note that very few species in Montana Warts
TRUE MORELS
when rains are most common. May through and chanterelles in fall. are deadly, but many can cause an upset
June is usually a reliable period to hunt for Montana has many different wild mush- stomach. Some people react even to the
morels and oyster mushrooms. Summer is room habitats: riparian corridors, aspen popular edible mushrooms listed here, so if
often too dry for mushroom sprouting, stands, meadows, and conifer (pine, spruce- you’ve never consumed a species before, eat Hollow from
bottom of
though shaggy manes and giant western fir, and Douglas fir) forests. Most species in only a small portion the first time to see how
stem to top
puffballs can show up in June and July, and this guide sprout in conifer forests. you react. Also note that all wild mushrooms
of cap
black morels (especially the fire varieties) Use a cloth or mesh bag, basket, or other should be thoroughly cooked.
can be found at high-elevation burn sites as open container to carry the mushrooms And always remember: When in doubt,
late as August, especially on north-facing you collect. Mushrooms quickly spoil if you throw it out.
slopes. For most species, however, it’s not store them in plastic Gills
worth looking during the heat of summer or bags or leave them Ring or Skirt
in a drought like we had in 2020. Last year in hot vehicles. They
the spring weather was so dry in southwest- store best in cool Stem or Stalk Cap connects
to top of stem
only, not to
Cup or Volva sides
Bottom
of cap

TRUE MOREL: ERIC HEIDLE; FALSE MOREL: SHUTTERSTOCK

connects Stem filled with
to stem cottony fibers
TRUE MOREL FALSE MOREL

SCIENTIFIC ILLUSTRATIONS: LIZ BRADLEY

True or false morel?
To make a positive identification, cut the specimen in half lengthwise.
Mycelium The cap of a true morel mushroom attaches directly to the stem from
top to bottom, like a hollow chocolate bunny. The cap of a false morel
attaches only at the very top and hangs down over the stem like a
folded umbrella.

Psychedelics FALSE MOREL

Some wild mushrooms
contain a naturally
occurring chemical
compound (psilocybin)
LEFT TO RIGHT: LESTER KISH; DAVE RUMMANS

that, when ingested,

produces hallucinations
and other psychedelic
effects. None grow in
BOUNTY HUNTERS Above left: Shaggy manes pop in the fall. Young ones, like these in the Gravelly Mountains, should be cooked soon after harvest. Montana; most occur
SHUTTERSTOCK

The inedible older specimens drip an inklike liquid from their cap, making them easy to identify. Above right: A haul of black non-fire morels
in western Oregon
harvested in early June in the Snowy Mountains. Black morels can be gray, brown, or black, but all have black ridges. Black “burn” morels sprout
the year after a forest fire. Look for them on the perimeters of burn sites, where red conifer needles litter the forest floor. and Washington.

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 10 popular
edibles
Listed from earliest to latest in the year.

cone–shaped cap varies from gray to yellow Giant western puffballs Hawkwings or scaly urchins Note that shaggy manes can resemble
brown and is covered with pits and ridges. the poisonous tall, white Amanita bisporig-
Calvatia booniana Sarcodon imbricatus
Like all true morels, the cap edge is attached era (destroying angel), so be extra cautious
to the stem and the interior is completely These large, white, solid orbs, ranging in size The common names say it all. These large, with these. Also, as with Chantrelles, a tiny
hollow. Morels grow in patches, so if you find from softballs to volleyballs, have flat scales fleshy, brown mushrooms are covered with percentage of people can get an upset
one, stop, squat, and look around; there are on top and are easy to recognize. Not all darker brown scales. Tiny “teeth” under the stomach from eating these mushrooms with
likely more nearby. Cut them in half length- puffball mushroom species are edible, but cap clinch the identification. This fungus or without alcohol.
wise to check the interior for any small insects, these giants are tasty when young and pure forms large rings in conifer forests in late
which can be whisked out with a toothbrush. white inside with a soft texture. Once the August and September and can be collected Sweet tooths or hedgehogs
interior yellows even a bit, they develop an by the bushel. Older specimens taste bitter
off odor and taste, and can produce an upset to some people, but young ones, with their
stomach when consumed. Sweet tooths
strong (and, to many of us, delicious) flavor,
King boletes
Giant western puffballs fruit in open are favored in spaghetti sauce and other
Oysters meadows and sagebrush prairies statewide in dishes calling for firm-fleshed mushrooms.
late June and July, and can be seen from road- stem has small veins at the top and is edible. Beware of bitter-tasting look-alikes.
sides. Most mushroomers cut the soft flesh Note that these mushrooms attract
Oyster mushrooms
into slices, which are then coated with flour, insects and worms, so cut off any infested Hawkwings
Pleurotus species beaten egg, and bread crumbs and sautéed in portions before consuming.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CATHY CRIPPS; CATHY CRIPPS; SHUTTERSTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; LESTER KISH; CHANCE NOFFSINGER
Montana is home to two types of edible butter, like you’d cook an eggplant. A single Avoid any boletes with red pores on the
oysters: the grayish-brown Pleurotus pul- large specimen can feed a family. Like morels, underside of the cap. These are the toxic
monarius that grows on cottonwoods and giant western puffballs can be dried, stored in bolete species.
the white P. populinus found on aspens. Both an airtight container, and reconstituted later
grow in riparian areas in large clusters on Black morels in hot water. Hydnum repandum
logs or standing dead trees—hence the Avoid small puffballs the size of a golf- Rainbow chanterelles The pale apricot caps of these mushrooms
nickname “stumpies”—from May through ball or smaller, which could be the button Cantharellus roseocanus look like those of chanterelles but have tiny
June, then in early fall if conditions are wet. Black morels stage of the toxic fly agaric Amanita mush- white “teeth” below rather than ridges.
Also known as yellow or golden chanterelles,
The stem is attached to one side of the oys- Morchella species room (see page 32). They sprout in conifer forests from August
these frilly, vase-shaped mushrooms have
ter-shaped cap, and the cream-colored Several types of black morels grow in Mon- Shaggy manes through October. The flesh is brittle and
ridges (not true gills) running down the stem,
bladelike gills run down the short stem. The tana. Though the caps of black morels can requires care when collecting and cooking.
an apricot color, and a fruity aroma. They can Coprinus comatus
flesh of oyster mushrooms is soft and be gray, brown, or black, the mushroom’s Their unique, delicious flavor makes them
go unnoticed because they often lie flat to the These tall “inky-caps” have white, shaggy or
often consumed by insects before human black ridges, which consistently darken with one of my favorites.
ground. These sturdy, hard-fleshed chan- scaly caps on long stems, resembling a
harvesters can get to them. age, give them their name. Black morels terelles grow in patches, so if you find one, closed umbrella. Easily recognizable are Branched bear’s heads
resemble pine cones, making them frustrat- others will likely be nearby. Hunt for them older specimens, which drip inklike liquid
ingly difficult to find in the conifer forests during a wet August and September in
Yellow morels from their cap. At this stage they are no
where they grow. As with yellow morels, the conifer forests, though they can appear
Morchella americana longer edible, but when picked young and
edge of the cap joins to the stem, making earlier at lower elevations. Be cautious of cooked quickly after harvest—they deterio-
These pale blond beauties fruit in spring under one big hollow inside. inedible or poisonous look-alikes such as the rate overnight in a refrigerator—they are a
cottonwood trees along stream- and river- Black “burn” morels (M. septimelata, false chanterelle (Hygrophoropsis auranti- great addition to scrambled eggs or sauces.
banks and islands. Start hunting for yellow M. tomentosa) come up one year after a fire aca), which, though vase shaped, is much Look for them in the fall along old
morels when the leaves on neighborhood on burned soil, sometimes fruiting in great softer and flimsier and has true gills. logging roads or bordering paved roadways,
lilacs reach the size of rabbit ears. The pine abundance in June and July, especially after
Western puffball at the base of urban hardwood trees, or
rains. Search the edges, where burned areas
under neighborhood shrubbery.
mix with unburned ones in a black-green Branched bear’s head
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NATHAN COOPER; DAN ELLISON;

mosaic, and where red conifer needles cover

the ground. Hericium coralloides
King boletes
Natural (non-fire) black morels (M. brun-
Long white icicles hang from branches, all of
nea, M. snyderi) are found scattered in un- Boletus edulis
which is edible. When cut up the texture is
burned forests and gardens from spring to “Kings” are among Montana’s largest mush-
NATHAN COOPER; NATHAN COOPER

somewhat like crab meat, and when cooked

summer. They are similar to burn morels but rooms. The caps can grow to the size of a
with lemon and dill the seafood resemblance
are usually brown. dinner plate (though most are saucer-size)
is enhanced. Branched bear’s heads sprout
Some people get sick after eating and are the color and shape of a nicely
in late spring in riparian areas on fallen
morels, especially the black varieties. Some browned hamburger bun. Underneath the cap
aspens and cottonwoods. n
people get sick if they consume wine with is a spongy layer of pores that turn from white
Yellow morel Rainbow chanterelles Shaggy manes
yellow or black morels. to yellow as the mushroom ages. The fat white

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 Toxic
mushrooms
Amanita species stem, and a distinct cup at the base. It contains Thimble false morels or verpas
Anyone who collects wild mushrooms should
the same poisons as the fly agaric and causes
the same uncomfortable symptoms from
Ptychoverpa bohemica 10 wild mushroom
learn to recognize the Amanita species be-
cause some are deadly. The most poisonous
which, fortunately, most people recover after These look even more like morels, but the
caps have longitudinal wrinkles and not pits
safety tips
12 hours. It is a summer and fall mushroom
ones grow along the West Coast, but Montana and ridges. The margin of the cap hangs free
found in conifer or mixed forests. 1. Before consuming any wild
is home to the pure-white Amanita bisporig- from the white stem, unlike a true morel, on
era, known as the two-spored destroying mushroom, be sure you identify the
which the stem and cap are one complete
angel (not shown). This species is extremely unit. While not deadly, this mushroom can
species and know it’s safe to eat.
rare in Montana and it’s unlikely you will ever cause gastronomic troubles in some people. 2. Never eat wild mushrooms raw;
come across one. Though the toxin is volatile and can be always cook them thoroughly.
All Amanitas have a cup (called a volva) boiled off, it’s still not a good idea to eat any
or rings of tissue at the base of the stem (see of these. Note that they sprout in the same 3. Be especially careful if out with
illustration, page 29). Some have a ring on season and habitat as yellow morels. children. Instruct them never to
the stem or patches of tissue (warts) on the
cap, or both. The two most common Amanitas
Cooking wild mushrooms eat a raw mushroom. Dogs can
be sickened too.
in Montana are the: Thimble false morel Preparation: Stems of most species are edible, but you need to trim the bottom of stems
4. Don’t overindulge; eating too
Funeral cap to remove dirt. Check for maggots, worms, or other tiny critters and brush
• Fly agaric (Amanita muscaria, yellow var.) away. If the mushroom is infested with too many, discard. Refrigerate the
many mushrooms can cause an
mushrooms you don’t cook. They store well in cool conditions for a week. upset stomach.
This pretty-but-toxic Amanita has a yellow Generic little brown mushrooms
cap with whiteish warts, a ring on the stem, 5. Don’t collect old, dried mushrooms.
Galerina marginata, for example Sauté: This is the easiest and most popular way to cook mushrooms. Sauté in
and three rows of tissue near the stem base. They won’t taste good.
You’ll see many of what I call “LBMs” in forests, a good amount of butter or olive oil or a mixture of the two. Cook so the
While not deadly, fly agarics can cause serious
along trails, in mulch beds, and in lawns. Many mushrooms aren’t touching each other. Mushrooms are mostly water, 6. Always store mushrooms in cool,
poisonings that have sent people to the hos-
are harmless, but a few can be deadly. One is and crowding ends up steaming rather than sautéing them. Some dry, dark conditions.
pital. They can cause delirium and hyperactiv-
Galerina marginata, or funeral cap, which con- people add a little minced garlic, thyme, or both during the last few
ity when eaten, followed by comatose sleep. 7. Morels give some people an upset
tains the same serious liver-destroying toxins minutes of the sauté.
Fly agarics show up in aspen and conifer
Rough-stalked boletes stomach; test by eating a small

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; CATHY CRIPPS; SHUTTERSTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; SHROOMERY. OPPOSITE PAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK
forests in the fall. as some Amanitas. These little mushrooms Roast: Toss mushrooms in olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast in a pan at
have a greasy ocher cap and a ring on their Leccinum aurantiacum cooked portion before ingesting
400 degrees F for about 20 minutes.
slim stem. They show up any time of year in any more.
Also called orange caps, these large boletes
moss or mulch. Fry: Some people like to dip mushrooms in flour, beaten egg, then bread
can be mistaken for kings, although they are 8. Some people get an upset stomach
crumbs and deep-fry them in oil.
Brain or walnut mushrooms found mostly in summer under aspens if they consume wine with morels
rather than conifers. Caps are orange to red- Season: Like steak, cooked mushrooms taste best with a hearty dose of salt or shaggy manes.
Gyromitra esculenta dish brown, with a spongy layer underneath, and pepper. Add a pinch of nutmeg to king boletes.
This “false morel” has a wrinkled red-brown like all boletes. The substantial whiteish
9. The best way to positively identify
Serve: Eat cooked mushrooms plain, mixed with gilled mushrooms is by taking a
cap that looks like a brain or a walnut perched stems are covered with shaggy brownish-
scrambled eggs, atop steaks, or added to sauces. spore print. Lack of space prevents
on a hollow stem. It can be deadly because, black scales. When cut open, the flesh inside
after consumption, a person’s stomach pro- turns pink, blue, gray, or black. Though listed explaining here, but you can find
Fly agaric duces monomethyl hydrazine (rocket fuel). as edible in some field guides, there have information online.
The effect is cumulative, and if a sufficient been numerous cases of poisonings, often 10. If you suspect someone has been
Panther
quantity is consumed over time, the liver is de- when people ingested raw or undercooked poisoned by a mushroom, call the
stroyed. It fruits in conifer forests in late spring. specimens. They are best avoided. n
Learn more Rocky Mountain Poison & Drug
GROUPS: The best way to learn to identify mushrooms is with
Safety (RMPDS) at (800) 222-1111.
Brain mushroom experts from the Western Montana Mycological Association (face-
book.com/montanamushrooms) or the Southwest Montana Myco-
logical Association ([email protected]). Both sponsor seasonal
mushrooming forays, though SMMA forays are cancelled for 2021.
BOOKS: Mushrooms of the Rocky Mountain Region, by Vera Even-
son; The Essential Guide to Rocky Mountain Mushrooms by Habitat,
• Panther (Amanita pantherina) by Cathy Cripps, Vera Evenson, and Michael Kuo.
The panther is another pretty Amanita and MUSHROOM ID: You can send or bring strange or suspected toxic
looks like the fly agaric. It has a tan to dark mushrooms to the Schutter Plant Diagnostic Lab at Montana State
brown cap with white patches, a ring on the Rough-stalked boletes
University in Bozeman for identification. (406) 994-5150; diag-
[email protected].
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